Embarkation of the party in the boats, and voyage down the
Morumbidgee--The skiff swamped by striking on a sunken tree--Recovery
of boat and its loading--Region of reeds--Dangers of the
navigation--Contraction of the channel--Reach the junction of a large
river--Intercourse with the natives on its banks--Character of the
country below the junction of the rivers--Descent of a dangerous
rapid--Warlike demonstrations of a tribe of natives--Unexpected
deliverance from a conflict with them--Junction of another river--Give
the name of the "Murray" to the principal stream.
The camp was a scene of bustle and confusion long before day-light. The
men whom I had selected to accompany me were in high spirits, and so
eager to commence their labours that they had been unable to sleep, but
busied themselves from the earliest dawn in packing up their various
articles of clothing, &c. We were prevented from taking our departure
so early as I had intended, by rain that fell about six. At a little
after seven, however, the weather cleared up, the morning mists blew
over our heads, and the sun struck upon us with his usual fervour. As
soon as the minor things were stowed away, we bade adieu to Harris and
his party; and shortly after, embarked on the bosom of that stream
along the banks of which we had journeyed for so many miles.
Notwithstanding that we only used two oars, our progress down the river
was rapid. Hopkinson had arranged the loads so well, that all the party
could sit at their ease, and Fraser was posted in the bow of the boat,
with gun in hand, to fire at any new bird or beast that we might
surprise in our silent progress. The little boat, which I shall
henceforward call the skiff, was fastened by a painter to our stern.
SUPPOSED JUNCTION OF LACHLAN.
As the reader will have collected from what has already fallen under
his notice, the country near the depot was extensively covered with
reeds, beyond which vast plains of polygonum stretched away. From the
bed of the river we could not observe the change that took place in it
as we passed along, so that we found it necessary to land, from time to
time, for the purpose of noting down its general appearance. At about
fifteen miles from the depot, we came upon a large creek-junction from
the N.E., which I did not doubt to be the one M'Leay and I had crossed
on the 25th of December. It was much larger than the creek of the
Macquarie, and was capable of holding a very great body of water,
although evidently too small to contain all that occasionally rushed
from its source. I laid it down as the supposed junction of the
Lachlan, since I could not, against the corroborating facts in my
possession, doubt its originating in the marshes of that river. Should
this, eventually, prove to be the case, the similar termination of the
two streams traced by Mr. Oxley will be a singular feature in the
geography of the interior.
EMUS--NATIVE TOMB.
We were just about to land, to prepare our dinner, when two emus swam
across the river ahead of us. This was an additional inducement for us
to land, but we were unfortunately too slow, and the birds escaped us.
We had rushed in to the right bank, and found on ascending it, that the
reeds with which it had hitherto been lined, had partially ceased. A
large plain, similar to those over which we had wandered prior to our
gaining the flooded region, stretched away to a considerable distance
behind us, and was backed by cypresses and brush. The soil of the plain
was a red sandy loam, covered sparingly with salsolae and shrubs; thus
indicating that the country still preserved its barren character, and
that it is the same from north to south. Among the shrubs we found a
tomb that appeared to have been recently constructed. No mound had been
raised over the body, but an oval hollow shed occupied the centre of
the burial place, that was lined with reeds and bound together with
strong net-work. Round this, the usual walks were cut, and the recent
traces of women's feet were visible upon them, but we saw no natives,
although, from the number and size of the paths that led from the
river, in various directions across the plain, I was led to conclude,
that, at certain seasons, it is hereabouts numerously frequented.
Fraser gathered some rushes similar to those used by the natives of the
Darling in the fabrication of their nets, and as they had not before
been observed, we judged them, of course, to be a sign of our near
approach to that river.
ASPECT OF COUNTRY AND RIVER.
As soon as we had taken a hasty dinner, we again embarked, and pursued
our journey. I had hoped, from the appearance of the country to the
north of us, although that to the south gave little indication of any
change, that we should soon clear the reeds; but at somewhat less than
a mile they closed in upon the river, and our frequent examination of
the neighbourhood on either side of it only tended to confirm the fact,
that we were passing through a country subject to great and extensive
inundation. We pulled up at half-past five, and could scarcely find
space enough to pitch our tents.
The Morumbidgee kept a decidedly westerly course during the day. Its
channel was not so tortuous as we expected to have found it, nor did it
offer any obstruction to the passage of the boats. Its banks kept a
general height of eight feet, five of which were of alluvial soil, and
both its depth and its current were considerable. We calculated having
proceeded from 28 to 30 miles, though, perhaps, not more than half that
distance in a direct line. No rain fell during the day, but we
experienced some heavy squalls from the E.S.E.
THE SKIFF STRIKES AND SINKS--LABOUR IN RECOVERING ARTICLES LOST.
The second day of our journey from the depot was marked by an accident
that had well nigh obliged us to abandon the further pursuit of the
river, by depriving us of part of our means of carrying it into effect.
We had proceeded, as usual, at an early hour in the morning, and not
long after we started, fell in with the blacks who had visited us last,
and who were now in much better humour than upon that occasion. As they
had their women with them, we pushed in to the bank, and distributed
some presents, after which we dropped quietly down the river. Its
general depth had been such as to offer few obstructions to our
progress, but about an hour after we left the natives, the skiff struck
upon a sunken log, and immediately filling, went down in about twelve
feet of water, The length of the painter prevented any strain upon the
whale-boat, but the consequence of so serious an accident at once
flashed upon our minds. That we should suffer considerably, we could
not doubt, but our object was to get the skiff up with the least
possible delay, to prevent the fresh water from mixing with the brine,
in the casks of meat. Some short time, however, necessarily elapsed
before we could effect this, and when at last the skiff was hauled
ashore, we found that we were too late to prevent the mischief that we
had anticipated. All the things had been fastened in the boat, but
either from the shock, or the force of the current, one of the pork
casks, the head of the still, and the greater part of the carpenter's
tools, had been thrown out of her. As the success of the expedition
might probably depend upon the complete state of the still, I
determined to use every effort for its recovery: but I was truly at a
loss how to find it; for the waters of the river were extremely turbid.
In this dilemma, the blacks would have been of the most essential
service, but they were far behind us, so that we had to depend on our
own exertions alone. I directed the whale-boat to be moored over the
place where the accident had happened, and then used the oars on either
side of her, to feel along the bottom of the river, in hopes that by
these means we should strike upon the articles we had lost. However
unlikely such a measure was to prove successful, we recovered in the
course of the afternoon, every thing but the still-head, and a cask of
paint. Whenever the oar struck against the substance that appeared, by
its sound or feel to belong to us, it was immediately pushed into the
sand, and the upper end of the oar being held by two men, another
descended by it to the bottom of the river, remaining under water as
long as he could, to ascertain what was immediately within arm's length
of him. This work was, as may be imagined, most laborious, and the men
at length became much exhausted. They would not, however, give up the
search for the still head, more especially after M'Leay, in diving, had
descended upon it. Had he, by ascertaining his position, left it to us
to heave it up, our labours would soon have ended; but, in his anxiety
for its recovery, he tried to bring it up, when finding it too heavy,
he let it go, and the current again swept it away.
At sunset, we were obliged to relinquish our task, the men complaining
of violent head-aches, which the nature of the day increased. Thinking
our own efforts would be unavailing, I directed two of the men to go up
the river for the blacks, at day-light in the morning, and set the
reeds on fire to attract their notice. The day had been cloudy and
sultry in the afternoon, the clouds collecting in the N.E.: we heard
the distant thunder, and expected to have been deluged with rain. None,
however, fell, although we were anxious for moisture to change the
oppressive state of the atmosphere. The fire I had kindled raged behind
us, and threw dense columns of smoke into the sky, that cast over the
landscape a shade of the most dismal gloom. We were not in a humour to
admire the picturesque, but soon betook ourselves to rest, and after
such a day of labour as that we had undergone, I dispensed with the
night guard.
PILFERING OF NATIVES.
In the morning we resumed our search for the still head, which
Hopkinson at length fortunately struck with his oar. It had been swept
considerably below the place at which M'Leay had dived, or we should
most probably have found it sooner. With its recovery, all our fatigues
were at once forgotten, and I ordered the breakfast to be got ready
preparatory to our reloading the skiff. Fraser and Mulholland, who had
left the camp at daylight, had not yet returned. I was sitting in the
tent, when Macnamee came to inform me that one of the frying-pans was
missing, which had been in use the evening previous, for that he
himself had placed it on the stump of a tree, and he therefore supposed
a native dog had run away with it. Soon after this, another loss was
reported to me, and it was at last discovered that an extensive robbery
had been committed upon us during the night, and that, in addition to
the frying-pan, three cutlasses, and five tomahawks, with the pea of
the steelyards, had been carried away. I was extremely surprised at
this instance of daring in the natives, and determined, if possible, to
punish it. About ten, Fraser and Mulholland returned with two blacks.
Fraser told me he saw several natives on our side of the river, as he
was returning, to whom those who were with him spoke, and I felt
convinced from their manner and hesitation, that they were aware of the
trick that had been played upon us. However, as Fraser had promised
them a tomahawk to induce them to accompany him, I fulfilled the
promise.
CONTINUE OUR VOYAGE.
Leaving this unlucky spot, we made good about sixteen miles during the
afternoon. The river maintained its breadth and depth nor were the
reeds continuous upon its banks. We passed several plains that were
considerably elevated above the alluvial deposits, and the general
appearance of the country induced me strongly to hope that we should
shortly get out of the region of reeds, or the great flooded concavity
on which we had fixed our depot; but the sameness of vegetation, and
the seemingly diminutive size of the timber in the distance, argued
against any change for the better in the soil of the interior. Having
taken the precaution of shortening the painter of the skiff, we found
less difficulty in steering her clear of obstacles, and made rapid
progress down the Morumbidgee during the first cool and refreshing
hours of the morning. The channel of the river became somewhat less
contracted, but still retained sufficient depth for larger boats than
ours, and preserved a general westerly course. Although no decline of
country was visible to the eye, the current in places ran very strong.
It is impossible for me to convey to the reader's mind an idea of the
nature of the country through which we passed. On this day the
favourable appearances, noticed yesterday, ceased almost as soon as we
embarked. On the 10th, reeds lined the banks of the river on both
sides, without any break, and waved like gloomy streamers over its
turbid waters; while the trees stood leafless and sapless in the midst
of them. Wherever we landed, the same view presented itself--a waving
expanse of reeds, and a country as flat as it is possible to imagine
one. The eye could seldom penetrate beyond three quarters of a mile,
and the labour of walking through the reeds was immense; but within our
observation all was green and cheerless. The morning had been extremely
cold, with a thick haze at E.S.E. About 2 p.m. it came on to rain
heavily, so that we did not stir after that hour.
CONTRACTION OF THE CHANNEL.
I had remarked that the Morumbidgee was not, from the depot downwards,
so broad or so fine a river as it certainly is at the foot of the
mountain ranges, where it gains the level country. The observations of
the last two days had impressed upon my mind an idea that it was
rapidly falling off, and I began to dread that it would finally
terminate in one of those fatal marshes in which the Macquarie and the
Lachlan exhaust themselves. My hope of a more favourable issue was
considerably damped by the general appearance of the surrounding
country; and from the circumstance of our not having as yet passed a
single tributary. As we proceeded down the river, its channel gradually
contracted, and immense trees that had been swept down it by floods,
rendered the navigation dangerous and intricate. Its waters became so
turbid, that it was impossible to see objects in it, notwithstanding
the utmost diligence on the part of the men.
About noon, we fell in with a large tribe of natives, but had great
difficulty in bringing them to visit us. If they had HEARD of white
men, we were evidently the first they had ever SEEN. They approached us
in the most cautious manner, and were unable to subdue their fears as
long as they remained with us. Collectively, these people could not
have amounted to less than one hundred and twenty in number.
ANOTHER ACCIDENT.
As we pushed off from the bank, after having stayed with them about
half an hour, the whaleboat struck with such violence on a sunken log,
that she immediately leaked on her starboard side. Fortunately she was
going slowly at the time, or she would most probably have received some
more serious injury. One of the men was employed during the remainder
of the afternoon in bailing her out, and we stopped sooner than we
should otherwise have done, in order to ascertain the extent of damage,
and to repair it. The reeds terminated on both sides of the river some
time before we pulled up, and the country round the camp was more
elevated than usual, and bore the appearance of open forest pasture
land, the timber upon it being a dwarf species of box, and the soil a
light tenacious earth.
ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY AND OF THE RIVER.
About a mile below our encampment of the 12th, we at length came upon a
considerable creek-junction from the S.E. Below it, the river increased
both in breadth and depth; banks were lofty and perpendicular, and even
the lowest levels were but partially covered with reeds. We met with
fewer obstructions in consequence, and pursued our journey with
restored confidence. Towards evening a great change also took place in
the aspect of the country, which no longer bore general marks of
inundation. The level of the interior was broken by a small hill to the
right of the stream, but the view from its summit rather damped than
encouraged my hopes of any improvement. The country was covered with
wood and brush, and the line of the horizon was unbroken by the least
swell. We were on an apparently boundless flat, without any fixed point
on which to direct our movements, nor was there a single object for the
eye to rest upon, beyond the dark and gloomy wood that surrounded us on
every side.
Soon after passing this hill, the whale-boat struck upon a line of
sunken rocks, but fortunately escaped without injury. Mulholland, who
was standing in the bow, was thrown out of her, head foremost, and got
a good soaking, but soon recovered himself. The composition of the rock
was iron-stone, and it is the first formation that occurs westward of
the dividing range. We noticed a few cypresses in the distance, but the
general timber was dwarf-box, or flooded-gum, and a few of the acacia
longa scattered at great distances. In verifying our position by some
lunars, we found ourselves in 142 degrees 46 minutes 30 seconds of east
long., and in lat. 35 degrees 25 minutes 15 seconds S. the mean
variation of the compass being 4 degrees 10 minutes E. it appearing
that we were decreasing the variation as we proceeded westward.
On the 13th, we passed the first running stream that joins the
Morumbidgee, in a course of more than 340 miles. It came from the S.E.,
and made a visible impression on the river at the junction, although in
tracing it up, it appeared to be insignificant in itself. The
circumstance of these tributaries all occurring on the left, evidenced
the level nature of the country to the north. In the afternoon, we
passed a dry creek also from the S.E. which must at times throw a vast
supply of water into the river, since for many miles below, the latter
preserved a breadth of 200 feet, and averaged from 12 to 20 feet in
depth, with banks of from 15 to 18 feet in height. Yet, notwithstanding
its general equality of depth, several rapids occurred, down which the
boats were hurried with great velocity. The body of water in the river
continued undiminished, notwithstanding its increased breadth of
channel; for which reason I should imagine that it is fed by springs,
independently of other supplies. Some few cypresses were again
observed, and the character of the distant country resembled, in every
particular, that of the interior between the Macquarie and the Darling.
The general appearance of the Morumbidgee, from the moment of our
starting on the 13th, to a late hour in the afternoon, had been such as
to encourage my hopes of ultimate success in tracing it down; but about
three o'clock we came to one of those unaccountable and mortifying
changes which had already so frequently excited my apprehension. Its
channel again suddenly contracted, and became almost blocked up with
huge trees, that must have found their way into it down the creeks or
junctions we had lately passed. The rapidity of the current increasing
at the same time, rendered the navigation perplexing and dangerous. We
passed reach after reach, presenting the same difficulties, and were at
length obliged to pull up at 5 p.m., having a scene of confusion and
danger before us that I did not dare to encounter with the evening's
light; for I had not only observed that the men's eye-sight failed them
as the sun descended, and that they mistook shadows for objects under
water, and VICE-VERSA, but the channel had become so narrow that,
although the banks were not of increased height, we were involved in
comparative darkness, under a close arch of trees, and a danger was
hardly seen ere we were hurried past it, almost without the possibility
of avoiding it. The reach at the head of which we stopped, was crowded
with the trunks of trees, the branches of which crossed each other in
every direction, nor could I hope, after a minute examination of the
channel, to succeed in taking the boats safely down so intricate a
passage.
DANGEROUS NAVIGATION OF THE MORUMBIDGEE.
We rose in the morning with feelings of apprehension, and uncertainty;
and, indeed, with great doubts on our minds whether we were not thus
early destined to witness the wreck, and the defeat of the expedition.
The men got slowly and cautiously into the boat, and placed themselves
so as to leave no part of her undefended. Hopkinson stood at the bow,
ready with poles to turn her head from anything upon which she might be
drifting. Thus prepared, we allowed her to go with the stream. By
extreme care and attention on the part of the men we passed this
formidable barrier. Hopkinson in particular exerted himself, and more
than once leapt from the boat upon apparently rotten logs of wood, that
I should not have judged capable of bearing his weight, the more
effectually to save the boat. It might have been imagined that where
such a quantity of timber had accumulated, a clearer channel would have
been found below, but such was not the case. In every reach we had to
encounter fresh difficulties. In some places huge trees lay athwart the
stream, under whose arched branches we were obliged to pass; but,
generally speaking, they had been carried, roots foremost, by the
current, and, therefore, presented so many points to receive us, that,
at the rate at which we were going, had we struck full upon any one of
them, it would have gone through and through the boat. About noon we
stopped to repair, or rather to take down the remains of our awning,
which had been torn away; and to breathe a moment from the state of
apprehension and anxiety in which our minds had been kept during the
morning. About one, we again started. The men looked anxiously out
ahead; for the singular change in the river had impressed on them an
idea, that we were approaching its termination, or near some adventure.
On a sudden, the river took a general southern direction, but, in its
tortuous course, swept round to every point of the compass with the
greatest irregularity. We were carried at a fearful rate down its
gloomy and contracted banks, and, in such a moment of excitement, had
little time to pay attention to the country through which we were
passing. It was, however, observed, that chalybeate-springs were
numerous close to the water's edge. At 3 p.m., Hopkinson called out
that we were approaching a junction, and in less than a minute
afterwards, we were hurried into a broad and noble river.
JUNCTION OF A LARGE RIVER--CHARACTER OF THE RIVER.
It is impossible for me to describe the effect of so instantaneous a
change of circumstances upon us. The boats were allowed to drift along
at pleasure, and such was the force with which we had been shot out of
the Morumbidgee, that we were carried nearly to the bank opposite its
embouchure, whilst we continued to gaze in silent astonishment on the
capacious channel we had entered; and when we looked for that by which
we had been led into it, we could hardly believe that the insignificant
gap that presented itself to us was, indeed, the termination of the
beautiful and noble stream, whose course we had thus successfully
followed. I can only compare the relief we experienced to that which
the seaman feels on weathering the rock upon which he expected his
vessel would have struck--to the calm which succeeds moments of
feverish anxiety, when the dread of danger is succeeded by the
certainty of escape.
To myself personally, the discovery of this river was a circumstance of
a particularly gratifying nature, since it not only confirmed the
justness of my opinion as to the ultimate fate of the Morumbidgee, and
bore me out in the apparently rash and hasty step I had taken at the
depot, but assured me of ultimate success in the duty I had to perform.
We had got on the high road, as it were, either to the south coast, or
to some important outlet; and the appearance of the river itself was
such as to justify our most sanguine expectations. I could not doubt
its being the great channel of the streams from the S.E. angle of the
island. Mr. Hume had mentioned to me that he crossed three very
considerable streams, when employed with Mr. Hovell in 1823 in
penetrating towards Port Phillips, to which the names of the Goulburn,
the Hume, and the Ovens, had been given; and as I was 300 miles from
the track these gentlemen had pursued, I considered it more than
probable that those rivers must already have formed a junction above
me, more especially when I reflected that the convexity of the
mountains to the S.E. would necessarily direct the waters falling
inwards from them to a common centre.
We entered the new river at right angles, and, as I have remarked, at
the point of junction the channel of the Morumbidgee had narrowed so as
to bear all the appearance of an ordinary creek. In breadth it did not
exceed fifty feet, and if, instead of having passed down it, I had been
making my way up the principal streams, I should little have dreamt
that so dark and gloomy an outlet concealed a river that would lead me
to the haunts of civilized man, and whose fountains rose amidst
snow-clad mountains. Such, however, is the characteristic of the
streams falling to the westward of the coast ranges. Descending into a
low and level interior, and depending on their immediate springs for
existence, they fall off, as they increase their distance from the base
of the mountains in which they rise, and in their lower branches give
little results of the promise they had previously made.
The opinion I have expressed, and which is founded on my personal
experience, that the rivers crossed by Messrs. Hovell and Hume had
already united above me, was strengthened by the capacity of the stream
we had just discovered. It had a medium width of 350 feet, with a depth
of from twelve to twenty. Its reaches were from half to three-quarters
of a mile in length, and the views upon it were splendid. Of course, as
the Morumbidgee entered it from the north, its first reach must have
been E. and W., and it was so, as nearly as possible; but it took us a
little to the southward of the latter point, in a distance of about
eight miles that we pulled down it in the course of the afternoon. We
then landed and pitched our tents for the night. Its transparent waters
were running over a sandy bed at the rate of two-and-a-half knots an
hour, and its banks, although averaging eighteen feet in height, were
evidently subject to floods.
ABSENCE OF NATIVES.
We had not seen any natives since falling in with the last tribe on the
Morumbidgee. A cessation had, therefore, taken place in our
communication with them, in re-establishing which I anticipated
considerable difficulty. It appeared singular that we should not have
fallen in with any for several successive days, more especially at the
junction of the two rivers, as in similar situations they generally
have an establishment. In examining the country back from the stream, I
did not observe any large paths, but it was evident that fires had made
extensive ravages in the neighbourhood, so that the country was,
perhaps, only temporarily deserted. Macnamee, who had wandered a little
from the tents, declared that he had seen about a dozen natives round a
fire, from whom (if he really did see them) he very precipitately fled,
but I was inclined to discredit his story, because in our journey on
the following day, we did not see even a casual wanderer.
WEATHER, TEMPERATURE, &C.
The river maintained its character, and raised our hopes to the highest
pitch. Its breadth varied from 160 to 200 yards; and only in one place,
where a reef of iron-stone stretched nearly across from the left bank,
so as to contract the channel near the right and to form a considerable
rapid, was there any apparent obstruction to our navigation. I was
sorry, however, to remark that the breadth of alluvial soil between its
outer and inner banks was very inconsiderable, and that the upper
levels were poor and sandy. Blue-gum generally occupied the former,
while the usual productions of the plains still predominated upon the
latter, and showed that the distant interior had not yet undergone any
favourable change. We experienced strong breezes from the north, but
the range of the thermometer was high, and the weather rather
oppressive than otherwise. On the night of the 16th, we had a strong
wind from the N.W., but it moderated with day-light, and shifted to the
E.N.E., and the day was favourable and cool. Our progress was in every
way satisfactory, and if any change had taken place in the river, it
was that the banks had increased in height, in many places to thirty
feet, the soil being a red loam, and the surface much above the reach
of floods. The bank opposite to the one that was so elevated, was
proportionably low, and, in general, not only heavily timbered, but
covered with reeds, and backed by a chain of ponds at the base of the
outer embankment.
INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES.
About 4 p.m., some natives were observed running by the river side
behind us, but on our turning the boat's head towards the shore, they
ran away. It was evident that they had no idea what we were, and, from
their timidity, feeling assured that it would be impossible to bring
them to a parley, we continued onwards till our usual hour of stopping,
when we pitched our tents on the left bank for the night, it being the
one opposite to that on which the natives had appeared. We conjectured
that their curiosity would lead them to follow us, which they very
shortly did; for we had scarcely made ourselves comfortable when we
heard their wild notes through the woods as they advanced towards the
river; and their breaking into view with their spears and shields, and
painted and prepared as they were for battle, was extremely fine. They
stood threatening us, and making a great noise, for a considerable
time, but, finding that we took no notice of them, they, at length,
became quiet. I then walked to some little distance from the party, and
taking a branch in my hand, as a sign of peace, beckoned them to swim
to our side of the river, which, after some time, two or three of them
did. But they approached me with great caution, hesitating at every
step. They soon, however, gained confidence, and were ultimately joined
by all the males of their tribe. I gave the FIRST who swam the river a
tomahawk (making this a rule in order to encourage them) with which he
was highly delighted. I shortly afterwards placed them all in a row and
fired a gun before them: they were quite unprepared for such an
explosion, and after standing stupified and motionless for a moment or
two, they simultaneously took to their heels, to our great amusement. I
succeeded, however, in calling them back, and they regained their
confidence so much, that sixteen of them remained with us all night,
but the greater number retired at sunset.
On the following morning, they accompanied us down the river, where we
fell in with their tribe, who were stationed on an elevated bank a
short distance below--to the number of eighty-three men, women, and
children. Their appearance was extremely picturesque and singular. They
wanted us to land, but time was too precious for such delays. Some of
the boldest of the natives swam round and round the boat so as to
impede the use of the oars, and the women on the bank evinced their
astonishment by mingled yells and cries. They entreated us, by signs,
to remain with them, but, as I foresaw a compliance on this occasion
would hereafter be attended with inconvenience, I thought it better to
proceed on our journey, and the natives soon ceased their
importunities, and, indeed, did not follow or molest us.
ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY AND OF THE RIVER BANKS.
The river improved upon us at every mile. Its reaches were of noble
breadth, and splendid appearance. Its current was stronger, and it was
fed by numerous springs. Rocks, however, were more frequent in its bed,
and in two places almost formed a barrier across the channel, leaving
but a narrow space for the boats to go down. We passed several
elevations of from 70 to 90 feet in height, at the base of which the
stream swept along. The soil of these elevations was a mixture of clay
(marl) and sand, upon coarse sandstone. Their appearance and the manner
in which they had been acted upon by water, was singular, and afforded
a proof of the violence of the rains in this part of the interior. From
the highest of these, I observed that the country to the S.E. was
gently undulated, and so far changed in character from that through
which we had been travelling; still, however, it was covered with a low
scrub, and was barren and unpromising.
About noon of the 18th, we surprised two women at the water-side, who
immediately retreated into the brush. Shortly after, four men showed
themselves, and followed us for a short distance, but hid themselves
upon our landing. The country still appeared undulated to the S.E.; the
soil was sandy, and cypresses more abundant than any other tree. We
passed several extensive sand-banks in the river, of unusual size and
solidity, an evident proof of the sandy nature of the interior
generally. The vast accumulations of sand at the junctions of every
creek were particularly remarkable. The timber on the alluvial flats
was not by any means so large as we had hitherto observed it; nor were
the flats themselves so extensive as they are on the Morumbidgee and
the Macquarie. Notwithstanding the aspect of the country which I have
described, no POSITIVE change had as yet taken place in the general
feature of the interior. The river continued to flow in a direction
somewhat to the northward of west, through a country that underwent no
perceptible alteration. Its waters, confined to their immediate bed,
swept along considerably below the level of its inner banks; and the
spaces between them and the outer ones, though generally covered with
reeds, seemed not recently to have been flooded; while on the other
hand, they had, in many places, from successive depositions, risen to a
height far above the reach of inundation. Still, however, the more
remote interior maintained its sandy and sterile character, and
stretched away, in alternate plain and wood, to a distance far beyond
the limits of our examination.
About the 21st, a very evident change took place in it. The banks of
the river suddenly acquired a perpendicular and water-worn appearance.
Their summits were perfectly level, and no longer confined by a
secondary embankment, but preserved an uniform equality of surface back
from the stream. These banks, although so abrupt, were not so high as
the upper levels, or secondary embankments. They indicated a deep
alluvial deposit, and yet, being high above the reach of any ordinary
flood, were covered with grass, under an open box forest, into which a
moderately dense scrub occasionally penetrated. We had fallen into a
concavity similar to those of the marshes, but successive depositions
had almost filled it, and no longer subject to inundation, it had lost
all the character of those flooded tracts. The kind of country I have
been describing, lay rather to the right than to the left of the river
at this place, the latter continuing low and swampy, as if the country
to the south of the river were still subject to inundation. As the
expedition proceeded, the left bank gradually assumed the appearance of
the right; both looked water-worn and perpendicular, and though not
more than from nine to ten feet in height, their summits were perfectly
level in receding, and bore diminutive box-timber, with
widely-scattered vegetation. Not a single elevation had, as yet, broken
the dark and gloomy monotony of the interior; but as our observations
were limited to a short distance from the river, our surmises on the
nature of the distant country were necessarily involved in some
uncertainty.
THREATENED ATTACK--AMICABLE CONFERENCE.
On the 19th, as we were about to conclude our journey for the day, we
saw a large body of natives before us. On approaching them, they showed
every disposition for combat, and ran along the bank with spears in
rests, as if only waiting for an opportunity to throw them at us. They
were upon the right, and as the river was broad enough to enable me to
steer wide of them, I did not care much for their threats; but upon
another party appearing upon the left bank, I thought it high time to
disperse one or the other of them, as the channel was not wide enough
to enable me to keep clear of danger, if assailed by both, as I might
be while keeping amid the channel. I found, however, that they did not
know how to use the advantage they possessed, as the two divisions
formed a junction; those on the left swimming over to the stronger body
upon the right bank. This, fortunately, prevented the necessity of any
hostile measure on my part, and we were suffered to proceed unmolested,
for the present. The whole then followed us without any symptom of
fear, but making a dreadful shouting, and beating their spears and
shields together, by way of intimidation. It is but justice to my men
to say that in this critical situation they evinced the greatest
coolness, though it was impossible for any one to witness such a scene
with indifference. As I did not intend to fatigue the men by continuing
to pull farther than we were in the habit of doing, we landed at our
usual time on the left bank, and while the people were pitching the
tents, I walked down the bank with M'Leay, to treat with these
desperadoes in the best way we could, across the water, a measure to
which my men showed great reluctance, declaring that if during our
absence the natives approached them, they would undoubtedly fire upon
them. I assured them it was not my intention to go out of their sight.
We took our guns with us, but determined not to use them until the last
extremity, both from a reluctance to shed blood and with a view to our
future security. I held a long pantomimical dialogue with them, across
the water, and held out the olive branch in token of amity. They at
length laid aside their spears, and a long consultation took place
among them, which ended in two or three wading into the river,
contrary, as it appeared, to the earnest remonstrances of the majority,
who, finding that their entreaties had no effect, wept aloud, and
followed them with a determination, I am sure, of sharing their fate,
whatever it might have been. As soon as they landed, M'Leay and I
retired to a little distance from the bank, and sat down; that being
the usual way among the natives of the interior, to invite to an
interview. When they saw us act thus, they approached, and sat down by
us, but without looking up, from a kind of diffidence peculiar to them,
and which exists even among the nearest relatives, as I have already
had occasion to observe. As they gained confidence, however, they
showed an excessive curiosity, and stared at us in the most earnest
manner. We now led them to the camp, and I gave, as was my custom, the
first who had approached, a tomahawk; and to the others, some pieces of
iron hoop. Those who had crossed the river amounted to about
thirty-five in number. At sunset, the majority of them left us; but
three old men remained at the fire-side all night. I observed that few
of them had either lost their front teeth or lacerated their bodies, as
the more westerly tribes do. The most loathsome diseases prevailed
among them. Several were disabled by leprosy, or some similar disorder,
and two or three had entirely lost their sight. They are, undoubtedly,
a brave and a confiding people, and are by no means wanting in natural
affection. In person, they resemble the mountain tribes. They had the
thick lip, the sunken eye, the extended nostril, and long beards, and
both smooth and curly hair are common among them. Their lower
extremities appear to bear no proportion to their bust in point of
muscular strength; but the facility with which they ascend trees of the
largest growth, and the activity with which they move upon all
occasions, together with their singularly erect stature, argue that
such appearance is entirely deceptive.
INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES.
The old men slept very soundly by the fire, and were the last to get up
in the morning. M'Leay's extreme good humour had made a most favourable
impression upon them, and I can picture him, even now, joining in their
wild song. Whether it was from his entering so readily into their
mirth, or from anything peculiar that struck them, the impression upon
the whole of us was, that they took him to have been originally a
black, in consequence of which they gave him the name of Rundi. Certain
it is, they pressed him to show his side, and asked if he had not
received a wound there--evidently as if the original Rundi had met with
a violent death from a spear-wound in that place. The whole tribe,
amounting in number to upwards of 150, assembled to see us take our
departure. Four of them accompanied us, among whom there was one
remarkable for personal strength and stature.--The 21st passed without
our falling in with any new tribe, and the night of the 22nd, saw us
still wandering in that lonely desert together. There was something
unusual in our going through such an extent of country without meeting
another tribe, but our companions appeared to be perfectly aware of the
absence of inhabitants, as they never left our side.
Although the banks of the river had been of general equality of height,
sandy elevations still occasionally formed a part of them, and their
summits were considerably higher than the alluvial flats.
RAPID IN THE RIVER--DANGEROUS DESCENT OF THE BOATS.
It was upon the crest of one of these steep and lofty banks, that on
the morning of the 22nd, the natives who were a-head of the boat,
suddenly stopped to watch our proceedings down a foaming rapid that ran
beneath. We were not aware of the danger to which we were approaching,
until we turned an angle of the river, and found ourselves too near to
retreat. In such a moment, without knowing what was before them, the
coolness of the men was strikingly exemplified. No one even spoke after
they became aware that silence was necessary. The natives (probably
anticipating misfortune) stood leaning upon their spears upon the lofty
bank above us. Desiring the men not to move from their seats, I stood
up to survey the channel, and to steer the boat to that part of it
which was least impeded by rocks. I was obliged to decide upon a hasty
survey, as we were already at the head of the rapid. It appeared to me
that there were two passages, the one down the centre of the river, the
other immediately under its right bank. A considerable rock stood
directly in own way to the latter, so that I had no alternative but to
descend the former. About forty yards below the rock, I noticed that a
line of rocks occupied the space between the two channels, whilst a
reef, projecting from the left bank, made the central passage
distinctly visible, and the rapidity of the current proportionably
great. I entertained hopes that the passage was clear, and that we
should shoot down it without interruption; but in this I was
disappointed. The boat struck with the fore-part of her keel on a
sunken rock, and, swinging round as it were on a pivot, presented her
bow to the rapid, while the skiff floated away into the strength of it.
We had every reason to anticipate the loss of our whale-boat, whose
build was so light, that had her side struck the rock, instead of her
keel, she would have been laid open from stem to stern. As it was,
however, she remained fixed in her position, and it only remained for
us to get her off the best way we could. I saw that this could only be
done by sending two of the men with a rope to the upper rock, and
getting the boat, by that means, into the still water, between that and
the lower one. We should then have time to examine the channels, and to
decide as to that down which it would be safest to proceed. My only
fear was, that the loss of the weight of the two men would lighten the
boat so much, that she would be precipitated down the rapid without my
having any command over her; but it happened otherwise. We succeeded in
getting her into the still water, and ultimately took her down the
channel under the right bank, without her sustaining any injury. A few
miles below this rapid the river took a singular bend, and we found,
after pulling several miles, that we were within a stone's throw of a
part of the stream we had already sailed down.
The four natives joined us in the camp, and assisted the men at their
various occupations. The consequence was, that they were treated with
more than ordinary kindness; and Fraser, for his part, in order to
gratify these favoured guests, made great havoc among the feathered
race. He returned after a short ramble with a variety of game, among
which were a crow, a kite, and a laughing jackass (alcedo gigantea,) a
species of king's-fisher, a singular bird, found in every part of
Australia. Its cry, which resembles a chorus of wild spirits, is apt to
startle the traveller who may be in jeopardy, as if laughing and
mocking at his misfortune. It is a harmless bird, and I seldom allowed
them to be destroyed, as they were sure to rouse us with the earliest
dawn. To this list of Fraser's spoils, a duck and a tough old cockatoo,
must be added. The whole of these our friends threw on the fire without
the delay of plucking, and snatched them from that consuming element
ere they were well singed, and devoured them with uncommon relish.
DESERTED NATIVE VILLAGE.
We pitched our tents upon a flat of good and tenacious soil. A brush,
in which there was a new species of melaleuca, backed it, in the
thickest part of which we found a deserted native village. The spot was
evidently chosen for shelter. The huts were large and long, all facing
the same point of the compass, and in every way resembling the huts
occupied by the natives of the Darling. Large flocks of whistling
ducks, and other wild fowl, flew over our heads to the N.W., as if
making their way to some large or favourite waters. My observations
placed us in lat. 34 degrees 8 minutes 15 seconds south, and in east
long. 141 degrees 9 minutes 42 seconds or nearly so; and I was at a
loss to conceive what direction the river would ultimately take. We
were considerably to the N.W. of the point at which we had entered it,
and in referring to the chart, it appeared, that if the Darling had
kept a S.W. course from where the last expedition left its banks, we
ought ere this to have struck upon it, or have arrived at its junction
with the stream on which we were journeying.
CONVERSING BY SIGNS.
The natives, in attempting to answer my interrogatories, only perplexed
me more and more. They evidently wished to explain something, by
placing a number of sticks across each other as a kind of diagram of
the country. It was, however, impossible to arrive at their meaning.
They undoubtedly pointed to the westward, or rather to the south of
that point, as the future course of the river; but there was something
more that they were anxious to explain, which I could not comprehend.
The poor fellows seemed quite disappointed, and endeavoured to beat it
into Fraser's head with as little success. I then desired Macnamee to
get up into a tree. From the upper branches of it he said he could see
hills; but his account of their appearance was such that I doubted his
story: nevertheless it might have been correct. He certainly called our
attention to a large fire, as if the country to the N.W. was in flames,
so that it appeared we were approaching the haunts of the natives at
last.
It happened that Fraser and Harris were for guard, and they sat up
laughing and talking with the natives long after we retired to rest.
Fraser, to beguile the hours, proposed shaving his sable companions,
and performed that operation with admirable dexterity upon their chief,
to his great delight. I got up at an early hour, and found to my
surprise that the whole of them had deserted us. Harris told me they
had risen from the fire about an hour before, and had crossed the
river. I was a little angry, but supposed they were aware that we were
near some tribe, and had gone on a-head to prepare and collect them.
LARGE CONCOURSE OF NATIVES--THEIR HOSTILE DEMEANOUR.
After breakfast, we proceeded onwards as usual. The river had increased
so much in width that, the wind being fair, I hoisted sail for the
first time, to save the strength of my men as much as possible. Our
progress was consequently rapid. We passed through a country that, from
the nature of its soil and other circumstances, appeared to be
intersected by creeks and lagoons. Vast flights of wild fowl passed
over us, but always at a considerable elevation, while, on the other
hand, the paucity of ducks on the river excited our surprise. Latterly,
the trees upon the river, and in its neighbourhood, had been a tortuous
kind of box. The flooded-gum grew in groups on the spaces subject to
inundation, but not on the levels above the influence of any ordinary
rise of the stream. Still they were much smaller than they were
observed to be in the higher branches of the river. We had proceeded
about nine miles, when we were surprised by the appearance in view, at
the termination of a reach, of a long line of magnificent trees of
green and dense foliage. As we sailed down the reach, we observed a
vast concourse of natives under them, and, on a nearer approach, we not
only heard their war-song, if it might so be called, but remarked that
they were painted and armed, as they generally are, prior to their
engaging in deadly conflict. Notwithstanding these outward signs of
hostility, fancying that our four friends were with them, I continued
to steer directly in for the bank on which they were collected. I
found, however, when it was almost too late to turn into the succeeding
reach to our left, that an attempt to land would only be attended with
loss of life. The natives seemed determined to resist it. We approached
so near that they held their spears quivering in their grasp ready to
hurl. They were painted in various ways. Some who had marked their
ribs, and thighs, and faces with a white pigment, looked like
skeletons, others were daubed over with red and yellow ochre, and their
bodies shone with the grease with which they had besmeared themselves.
A dead silence prevailed among the front ranks, but those in the back
ground, as well as the women, who carried supplies of darts, and who
appeared to have had a bucket of whitewash capsized over their heads,
were extremely clamorous. As I did not wish a conflict with these
people, I lowered my sail, and putting the helm to starboard, we passed
quietly down the stream in mid channel. Disappointed in their
anticipations, the natives ran along the bank of the river,
endeavouring to secure an aim at us; but, unable to throw with
certainty, in consequence of the onward motion of the boat, they flung
themselves into the most extravagant attitudes, and worked themselves
into a state of frenzy by loud and vehement shouting.
PREPARATIONS FOR CONFLICT--UNEXPECTED INTERFERENCE.
It was with considerable apprehension that I observed the river to be
shoaling fast, more especially as a huge sand-bank, a little below us,
and on the same side on which the natives had gathered, projected
nearly a third-way across the channel. To this sand-bank they ran with
tumultuous uproar, and covered it over in a dense mass. Some of the
chiefs advanced to the water to be nearer their victims, and turned
from time to time to direct their followers. With every pacific
disposition, and an extreme reluctance to take away life, I foresaw
that it would be impossible any longer to avoid an engagement, yet with
such fearful numbers against us, I was doubtful of the result. The
spectacle we had witnessed had been one of the most appalling kind, and
sufficient to shake the firmness of most men; but at that trying moment
my little band preserved their temper coolness, and if any thing could
be gleaned from their countenances, it was that they had determined on
an obstinate resistance. I now explained to them that their only chance
of escape depended, or would depend, on their firmness. I desired that
after the first volley had been fired, M'Leay and three of the men,
would attend to the defence of the boat with bayonets only, while I,
Hopkinson, and Harris, would keep up the fire as being more used to it.
I ordered, however, that no shot was to be fired until after I had
discharged both my barrels. I then delivered their arms to the men,
which had as yet been kept in the place appropriated for them, and at
the same time some rounds of loose cartridge. The men assured me they
would follow my instructions, and thus prepared, having already lowered
the sail, we drifted onwards with the current. As we neared the
sand-bank, I stood up and made signs to the natives to desist; but
without success. I took up my gun, therefore, and cocking it, had
already brought it down to a level. A few seconds more would have
closed the life of the nearest of the savages. The distance was too
trifling for me to doubt the fatal effects of the discharge; for I was
determined to take deadly aim, in hopes that the fall of one man might
save the lives of many. But at the very moment, when my hand was on the
trigger, and my eye was along the barrel, my purpose was checked by
M'Leay, who called to me that another party of blacks had made their
appearance upon the left bank of the river. Turning round, I observed
four men at the top of their speed. The foremost of them as soon as he
got a-head of the boat, threw himself from a considerable height into
the water. He struggled across the channel to the sand-bank, and in an
incredibly short space of time stood in front of the savage, against
whom my aim had been directed. Seizing him by the throat, he pushed
backwards, and forcing all who were in the water upon the bank, he trod
its margin with a vehemence and an agitation that were exceedingly
striking. At one moment pointing to the boat, at another shaking his
clenched hand in the faces of the most forward, and stamping with
passion on the sand; his voice, that was at first distinct and clear,
was lost in hoarse murmurs. Two of the four natives remained on the
left bank of the river, but the third followed his leader, (who proved
to be the remarkable savage I have previously noticed) to the scene of
action. The reader will imagine our feelings on this occasion: it is
impossible to describe them. We were so wholly lost in interest at the
scene that was passing, that the boat was allowed to drift at pleasure.
For my own part I was overwhelmed with astonishment, and in truth
stunned and confused; so singular, so unexpected, and so strikingly
providential, had been our escape.
JUNCTION OF ANOTHER STREAM--PROVIDENTIAL DELIVERANCE FROM DANGER.
We were again roused to action by the boat suddenly striking upon a
shoal, which reached from one side of the river to the other. To jump
out and push her into deeper water was but the work of a moment with
the men, and it was just as she floated again that our attention was
withdrawn to a new and beautiful stream, coming apparently from the
north. The great body of the natives having posted themselves on the
narrow tongue of land formed by the two rivers, the bold savage who had
so unhesitatingly interfered on our account, was still in hot dispute
with them, and I really feared his generous warmth would have brought
down upon him the vengeance of the tribes. I hesitated, therefore,
whether or not to go to his assistance. It appeared, however, both to
M'Leay and myself, that the tone of the natives had moderated, and the
old and young men having listened to the remonstrances of our friend,
the middle-aged warriors were alone holding out against him. A party of
about seventy blacks were upon the right bank of the newly discovered
river, and I thought that by landing among them, we should make a
diversion in favour of our late guest; and in this I succeeded. If even
they had still meditated violence, they would have to swim a good broad
junction, and that, probably, would cool them, or we at least should
have the advantage of position. I therefore, ran the boat ashore, and
landed with M'Leay amidst the smaller party of natives, wholly unarmed,
and having directed the men to keep at a little distance from the bank.
Fortunately, what I anticipated was brought about by the stratagem to
which I had had recourse. The blacks no sooner observed that we had
landed, than curiosity took place of anger. All wrangling ceased, and
they came swimming over to us like a parcel of seals. Thus, in less
than a quarter of an hour from the moment when it appeared that all
human intervention was at on end, and we were on the point of
commencing a bloody fray, which, independently of its own disastrous
consequences, would have blasted the success of the expedition, we were
peacefully surrounded by the hundreds who had so lately threatened us
with destruction; nor was it until after we had returned to the boat,
and had surveyed the multitude upon the sloping bank above us, that we
became fully aware of the extent of our danger, and of the almost
miraculous intervention of Providence in our favour. There could not
have been less than six hundred natives upon that blackened sward. But
this was not the only occasion upon which the merciful superintendance
of that Providence to which we had humbly committed ourselves, was
strikingly manifested. If these pages fail to convey entertainment or
information, sufficient may at least be gleaned from them to furnish
matter for serious reflection; but to those who have been placed in
situations of danger where human ingenuity availed them not, and where
human foresight was baffled, I feel persuaded that these remarks are
unnecessary.
NEW RIVER, SUPPOSED TO BE THE DARLING.
It was my first care to call for our friend, and to express to him, as
well as I could, how much we stood indebted to him, at the same time
that I made him a suitable present; but to the chiefs of the tribes, I
positively refused all gifts, notwithstanding their earnest
solicitations. We next prepared to examine the new river, and turning
the boat's head towards it, endeavoured to pull up the stream. Our
larboard oars touched the right bank, and the current was too strong
for us to conquer it with a pair only; we were, therefore, obliged to
put a second upon her, a movement that excited the astonishment and
admiration of the natives. One old woman seemed in absolute ecstasy, to
whom M'Leay threw an old tin kettle, in recompense for the amusement
she afforded us.
HOIST THE UNION JACK.
As soon as we got above the entrance of the new river, we found easier
pulling, and proceeded up it for some miles, accompanied by the once
more noisy multitude. The river preserved a breadth of one hundred
yards, and a depth of rather more than twelve feet. Its banks were
sloping and grassy, and were overhung by trees of magnificent size.
Indeed, its appearance was so different from the water-worn banks of
the sister stream, that the men exclaimed, on entering it, that we had
got into an English river. Its appearance certainly almost justified
the expression; for the greenness of its banks was as new to us as the
size of its timber. Its waters, though sweet, were turbid, and had a
taste of vegetable decay, as well as a slight tinge of green. Our
progress was watched by the natives with evident anxiety. They kept
abreast of us, and talked incessantly. At length, however, our course
was checked by a net that stretched right across the stream. I say
checked, because it would have been unfair to have passed over it with
the chance of disappointing the numbers who apparently depended on it
for subsistence that day. The moment was one of intense interest to me.
As the men rested upon their oars, awaiting my further orders, a crowd
of thoughts rushed upon me. The various conjectures I had formed of the
course and importance of the Darling passed across my mind. Were they
indeed realized? An irresistible conviction impressed me that we were
now sailing on the bosom of that very stream from whose banks I had
been twice forced to retire. I directed the Union Jack to be hoisted,
and giving way to our satisfaction, we all stood up in the boat, and
gave three distinct cheers. It was an English feeling, an ebullition,
an overflow, which I am ready to admit that our circumstances and
situation will alone excuse. The eye of every native had been fixed
upon that noble flag, at all times a beautiful object, and to them a
novel one, as it waved over us in the heart of a desert. They had,
until that moment been particularly loquacious, but the sight of that
flag and the sound of our voices hushed the tumult, and while they were
still lost in astonishment, the boat's head was speedily turned, the
sail was sheeted home, both wind and current were in our favour, and we
vanished from them with a rapidity that surprised even ourselves, and
which precluded every hope of the most adventurous among them to keep
up with us.