ON THE WATER.
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The part Lake Michigan will play in the transportation of people to and
from the World’s Fair Grounds has not at this writing (May, 1892) been
definitely determined upon. It is beyond question, however, that some
proper arrangement in this direction will have been made long before
the Fair opens, for it would seem highly impossible that the great
facilities for water transportation should not be properly utilized.
For some reason or other aquatic sports and pleasures have not
flourished in Chicago as they should, considering the immense
advantages in that direction that are lying, as it were, at our
very doors. Some people attribute the small interest of the average
Chicagoan in aquatics to the unstable character of the great sheet of
water known as Lake Michigan--an unstability which is shown sometimes
in the quick gathering of storms. The lake may be shining like a
sheet of glass one hour, and in the next heaving tumultuously under
the influence of a squall. This sort of thing puts a check on the
ambition for boating to some extent, but is hardly a sufficient reason
why the sport of yachting--one of the grandest of all sports--should
not flourish. The yachtsmen of New York, Chicago amateur marriners are
fond of arguing, have infinitely greater risks to run in New York bay
than we have in our harbor and lake, but yacht clubs flourish there,
and in fact in all the cities on the Atlantic coast, while in Chicago
the enjoyment of this royal sport is confined to a few enthusiasts
who vainly endeavor to enlist the sympathies of the multitude in the
pastime they find so delightful.
There are few sailing yachts in commission nowadays, but there are
several yacht clubs, and the time may come when the sport will be
properly revived and encouraged. The Chicago Yacht Club, whose office
is at 655 Rookery building, has many members. Its officers are
A. T. Fisher, commodore; Harry Duvall, secretary; J. W. S. Brawley,
treasurer. The President of the Countess Yacht Club is Mr. Sidney W.
Woodbury, and the treasurer, E. W. Herrick. The Countess Yacht Club
derives its title from the somewhat celebrated craft of that name.
The _Countess_ is a magnificent sloop, and the club is composed of
the gentlemen who own her and take their enjoyment on board of her.
The _Countess_ was built in Canada and named originally the _Countess
of Dufferin_, in honor of the wife of the then Governor-General of
the Dominion, the Earl of Dufferin. She was built to contest for
the American cup but did not succeed. The name was changed to the
_Countess_ when she was brought to Chicago. The _Countess_ may be seen
any bright summer day gallantly riding the waters of the bay opposite
Lake Front Park. It is an enthusing sight to see her starting bravely
out into the lake with all her canvas set, heeling gracefully on in
deference to the breeze. Dozens of smaller but none the less ambitious
craft swarm about her and endeavor to keep the pace, their snow-white
sails showing prettily against the blue sky. But the _Countess_ is too
speedy for them and out-fools them all.
Perhaps the most active yachting organization in Chicago is the Lincoln
Park Yacht Club, organized two years ago. Its list of officers is as
follows: Commodore, James J. Wilson; vice commodore, S. S. Johnson;
rear-commodore, A. E. Back; treasurer, H. A. Paus; secretary, C. O.
Andrews. This club possesses an advantage inasmuch as the vessels
of its members find a safe haven and anchorage in the new slip,
protected by a break-water, at Lincoln Park, which has been constructed
especially for regattas. From ten to fifteen yachts find shelter here,
and some splendid yacht races may be witnessed during the summer over
what is termed the Lincoln Park course, extending some five miles out
into the lake. The race is always made outward and return, and the
spectacle is beautiful to witness when half a dozen of the fleet craft
are speeding over the waves in the contest for supremacy. The yacht
races during the summer naturally heighten the attraction of this most
popular of all the parks.
There are many boat clubs. The Catlin Boat Club has a clubhouse at
the foot of Pearson street, on the North side. The Ogden Boat Club’s
house is at the foot of Superior street, half a mile further south. The
Farragut Boat Club is the most pretentious of all, however, possessing
as it does, in addition to its boat-house at the foot of Thirty-third
street, a handsome clubhouse on Lake avenue, just below Thirty-first
street, which is the scene of many noteworthy social events. The
clubhouse contains, in addition to its comfortable parlors and
reception rooms, a bowling alley, pool-room and lavatories, while the
upper story is devoted to a dancing hall and theatre with a seating
capacity of 400.
So much for the private aquatic organizations. While a visitor with
influential friends finds no difficulty in securing an introduction
to any of them, and a consequent temporary share in their privileges,
they are, of course, more or less exclusive, and the reader’s interest
will naturally go to such provisions as are made for the enjoyment and
entertainment of the stranger and the unknown.
Down on the Lake Front, just across the Illinois Central tracks, will
be found from ten to fifteen pretty yachts, owned by their captains,
who will take a party out for an hour’s sail at the rate of 25 cents
per hour. In case there are only two of you the charge will be a
dollar, the owners never moving out for less than that sum. These
crafts are sound and seaworthy and in the charge of old sailors whose
skill and nerve are to be trusted and relied upon in any sort of
weather. It is a most delightful manner of spending an hour. When the
heat in the city is stifling and not a breath of air is stirring, try
the experiment of a spin over the blue waters and see how refreshing
is the breeze that is invariably blowing briskly over on the Michigan
shore. There is not even time to get sea-sick, no matter how violent
the motion of the staunch little vessel, yet if any of the passengers
should feel squeamish the captain is only too ready to put about and
return home.
If the pleasure-seeker prefers steam to canvas as a motive power he can
take his choice between a trip to the government pier or water-works
crib, and a longer sail to Jackson or Lincoln Park. The fare to the
pier and back is ten cents; the round trip to and from the crib or
either of the parks is 25 cents. There are several more pretentious
vessels that go out at night for moonlight excursions on the lake.
They start both from the Lake Front and from the river, in the latter
case generally at the Clark street bridge. They always secure a large
patronage and there is generally a good time enjoyed by those who make
up such excursions. The decks are crowded with pretty girls and their
escorts, it somehow generally happening that the girls outnumber the
boys, and, as a dance is always begun the minute the vessel is well out
in the lake, the pair of strangers who have resolved to try this manner
of spending the evening are apt to find their company very much in
request. The advent of another year will probably see a large increase
in the number of excursion steamers, and during the Fair the lake will
doubtless be drawn upon to its fullest extent as a source of pleasure
for the visiting throng.
All the foregoing applies to short trips. There are steamship lines
whose vessels make very extended journeys.
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It not infrequently happens that visitors take advantage of the
excellent opportunities afforded and make one or two voyages that they
remember with pleasure long after their return to their homes in the
country. The Graham Morton Transportation Company’s steamers leave
from the dock at the foot of Wabash avenue for St. Joseph and Benton
harbor daily, at 9:30 in the morning and 11 o’clock at night, arriving
at St. Joseph at 1:30 P.M. and 3 in the morning. On Sunday one trip
is made, leaving at 10 A.M. and arriving at 2 o’clock. The fare for a
single trip is $1 but the round trip can be made for that price if the
passengers return the same day. The fine side-wheel steamer _City of
Chicago_, one of the handsomest on the lakes, is the star of this line.
The Sunday excursion on this ship costs $1.50. The voyage is directly
across the lake, about 40 miles, and is made on schedule time in good
weather; adverse winds and waves are apt to cause a little delay.
The Goodrich line, however, is the leading line of lake steamers as
well as the oldest. The company’s dock is at the foot of Michigan
avenue. The steamers ply between Chicago and all ports on Lake
Michigan, such as Racine, Milwaukee, Sturgeon Bay, Menominee, Grand
Haven, Muskegon, Green Bay and Manistique. The trip to Muskegon, which
takes one night, is especially enjoyable and many people indulge in it
for the purpose of seeing the greatest lumber town in the world, which
distinction Muskegon enjoys; the night trip to Milwaukee is also a
favorite, especially in hot weather. Milwaukee, as is ever known, is a
sort of Gretna Green for youthful and impressionable Chicago couples,
who are in the habit of eloping to that happy haven, getting safely
married and then returning on the next boat to seek the parental
forgiveness which is almost invariably bestowed if they wait long
enough. The Saturday night boat rarely starts in the summer months
without at least one such eloping couple on board.
Some of the Goodrich line vessels will bear comparison with the
finest ocean steamers. The dimensions of the Virginia, for instance,
are as follows: 278 feet over all, 260 feet keel, 38 feet beam and
25 feet deep. The hull is divided into six water-tight compartments,
so constructed that if the vessel were cut squarely in two halves it
would float. The interior decorations and equipments are of the most
magnificent description. No one should fail to at least inspect this,
by all odds the finest vessel that floats the lakes. Other fine vessels
of this line are the _Indiana_, _City of Racine_ and _Menominee_.
The steamers of the Lake Michigan & Lake Superior Transportation
Company, which are all elegantly appointed, carry passengers between
Chicago and Duluth, at the head of Lake Superior. These staunch
steamers leave Chicago Wednesday and Saturday evenings, leaving the
dock at Rush street bridge at 8:30, and call at Mackinac, Sault Ste.
Marie, Marquette, and all Lake Superior ports. The passenger traffic on
this line during the summer is enormous and increases constantly with
the fame of the northern summer resorts, which are yearly growing more
popular.
The pleasure-seeker is hardly likely to be interested in the commercial
side of the Chicago lake marine. The story of its magnitude, however,
may be told in one brief paragraph:
The daily arrivals and clearances at Chicago exceed those of New York
by fifty per cent, being nearly as numerous as those of Baltimore,
Boston and New York combined. Figures talk, and these are the figures
that Chicago modestly presents to the observation of the wondering
stranger.