THE PARKS AND BOULEVARDS.
[Illustration]
So much space having been devoted, not without reason, to the
attractions of Chicago after the evening shadows have fallen, it is
with a feeling of pleasure that one turns to the charms of the city by
day. If there is a city in the world calculated to offer the tourists
opportunities for pleasure in the daytime it is Chicago. It is natural,
perhaps, in considering these opportunities, to refer to the parks and
boulevards of Chicago, which, as good judges of such matters have said,
constitute a whole host of attractions in themselves.
The park system of Chicago is something upon which the city prides
itself perhaps more highly than on anything else. There is no city in
the world that contains such a complete system of breathing-places for
the people as is to be found in this one. The parks of Chicago embrace
a total area of 2,074 acres, which is exclusive of grounds covered
by park boulevards. The park system makes the circuit of the city,
being connected by boulevards and embracing a total length of perhaps
40 miles. The system is divided into three divisions, each one of
which is under the control of park commissioners, which commissioners
are elected by the courts. There are therefore three separate or
distinct government bodies: the South park commissioners, the North
park commissioners and the West park commissioners, who care for the
territories under their control, which are maintained by a tax upon
the three divisions of the city above signified. The city government
maintains the control over numerous small parks or squares, which are
maintained by the city treasury. All of the great parks are easy of
access, being easily reached by any of the cable lines at the rate of
five cents per passenger. South park, Jackson park and Washington park
may be speedily reached by the Illinois Central at the rate of 25 cents
for the round trip.
Chicago’s boast that it possesses the finest parks of any city in the
world will be found on investigation to be borne out by the facts. The
area of territory under care and cultivation, the artistic manner in
which the grounds are laid out and the general excellence of the _tout
ensemble_ so provided cannot be rivaled by any of the cities in the
Old World. It is not proposed in this modest work to give a technical
description of the various parks of the city, but rather to convey
a general idea of the natural and artificial beauties to be found
within their limits. On summer nights, when the hot air of the streets
drives the crowds from the business district to seek a refuge or
breathing-place, the cars that lead to the various parks are thronged
to the guards with people whose only universal desire is to get away to
some cool spot where they may enjoy a gentler atmosphere, with perhaps
a cool breeze thrown in.
Of the many parks of which the city boasts Lincoln park is perhaps the
most popular. This, perhaps, is because it is nearest to the business
centre and is also one of the largest, situated, as it is, on the very
shore of Lake Michigan and stretching from Diversey street on the north
to North avenue on the south, being bounded on the west by Clark street.
Lincoln park is reached from the south by the Lake Shore drive, which
is already the finest boulevard drive in Chicago, and which, when it
extends, as is promised, to the military post at Ft. Sheridan, will be
unequaled in all the world. The drive proper commences at North side
water works on Pine street and skims along the lake to the northern
extremities of the park itself, connecting at the park’s northern
most end with the Sheridan drive, which, when complete, will extend a
distance of 25 miles along the lake. Along this drive are grouped some
of the finest private mansions of which the city can boast. Noticeable
among these is the home of Potter Palmer, the proprietor of the Palmer
House, whose wife occupies the proud position of president of the
Board of Lady Managers of the World’s Fair. The Palmer castle, as it
is called, is a giant structure of dark-gray stone and its towers
and turrets present an appearance very little less imposing than the
ancient castles of the Old World. The Palmer castle is pointed out to
the visitors as one of the sights of the city. On the right side of
the drive is a strong embankment surmounted by a wall of solid stone,
against which the waves beat ceaselessly. On bright days the drive is
fairly thronged with brilliant equipages and the sight is a very gay
one. A boat racing course, especially designed for regattas, commences
just beyond the entrance to the park, being protected from the fury of
the sea by an outer pier.
Lincoln park itself is about 250 acres in area. In old days it was a
cemetery and the tomb of the Couch family is one of its land-marks. It
has been under state supervision since the year 1869, when the first
board of commissioners was appointed. All that art can contribute to
nature has been directed upon the project of beautifying this lovely
place, and the winding avenues, the glassy lakes, the rich foliage,
the gorgeous beds of flowers and masses of shrubs combine to produce
as attractive a picture as mortal mind could conceive or human eyes
delight in. Aside from the natural beauties of the place Lincoln park
possesses other attractions in the way of statuary and a zoological
collection, which exercise a peculiar charm for visitors. Notable among
the former is the Grant monument, facing Lake Michigan on the Lake
Shore drive, the cost of which was $100,000, the same being defrayed
by popular subscription. There is also the Lincoln statue, by St.
Gaudens, which faces the main entrance and was presented, together with
a drinking fountain, by the late Eli Bates, statue and fountain costing
$50,000. Other monumental works, notably the Indian Group in bronze,
presented by the late Martin Ryerson; the La Salle monument, presented
by Lambert Tree; the Schiller monument, erected by German residents
of Chicago, and the Linne monument, erected by the Swedish residents
of Chicago, are to be found at various points of the park. There are
also magnificent conservatories, in the flowery mazes of which the
visitor may wander at will, feasting his senses on beauties there to be
found. A feature of Lincoln park is the new palm house just erected,
the dimensions of which are 168 by 70 feet, with a rear extension, and
in which every variety of tropical palm will be exhibited. The cost of
this structure was $60,000 and it will well repay a visit.
From Lincoln park to Douglas park is a long jump, but for the sake of
continuity that jump may be appropriately taken, for the West side
parks come next in importance to Lincoln park when one is considering
the entire system. The area of Douglas park is 180 acres. It is
situated in a northwesterly direction four miles from the Court House,
being bounded on the north by 12th street, on the west by Albany
avenue and on the south by W. 19th street. The 12th street cars take
the passenger to the very gates of the park. Douglas park is located
in a neighborhood which some years ago was almost entirely destitute
of residences, but within the last few years it has been built up to
such an extent that those who saw the neighborhood in the days of its
primitiveness would scarcely recognize it now. The people who live
in that neighborhood have great affection for Douglas park, which is
artistically laid out and very skillfully cultivated. There is a large
lake with a boat-house and refectory. It has also an artesian well
whose waters are said to contain fine medicinal properties.
The chief park of the West side, however, is Garfield park, which is
reached by the W. Madison street cable cars, being situated four miles
directly west of the court house. It is bounded by Lake street on the
north, Madison street on the south, extending a mile and a half west
from Washington boulevard. In order to drive to Garfield park one
may traverse Washington boulevard, which, lined as it is with fine
residences, is one of the prettiest and most attractive to be found
in the whole city. It is an exceedingly well paved boulevard and on
certain occasions, when the police are not too vigilant, some smart
brushes between the rival owners of fast horses are occasionally to
be seen on its broad stretch of smooth road-way. This park was not
always known as Garfield; its first name was Central park, but this
was changed in honor to the memory of the martyred president. The
park itself is picturesque beyond measure, its drives and promenades
being laid out in such a manner as to cater to the most exacting of
tastes. Among its features may be mentioned a handsome fountain, the
gift of Mrs. Mancel Talcott, and an artesian well 200 feet deep, which
discharges mineral water at the rate of 150 gallons per hour. Beautiful
as Garfield park is at the present writing it bids fair within the next
few years to be advanced to an even more perfect state. The people of
the West side are determined that it shall be one of the handsomest
parks in the city, and are sparing no efforts to make it so. The West
side cable cars reach a terminus at this point, but connecting with
them is an electric line which carries passengers out to the town of
Cicero, through the suburbs of Austin and Oak Parks, at the uniform
fare of 5 cents.
Humboldt park is another West side breathing-place in which the
residents of the locality in which it is situated take especial pride.
Its area is 200 acres and it lies four miles north-west from the court
house, being bounded on the south by Augusta street, on the east by N.
California avenue, on the west by N. Kedzie avenue, and on the north by
W. North avenue. Humboldt park is beautifully laid out and its trees,
shrubs and flowers are of superb beauty. It has a fine conservatory and
an artesian well 1,155 feet deep.
The South side park system is the most complete of any in the city,
and it monopolizes the favor of visitors who desire to make a speedy
circuit of the three handsomest parks in the town within the short
space of half a day. The system of boulevards leading to these parks
cannot be equaled in the whole world. Michigan avenue boulevard, which
commences at Jackson street and the Lake Front, is the open sesame to a
drive as delicious as the most exacting soul can desire. This street is
one hundred feet wide from curb to curb and skirts the Lake Front park
at its commencement. Speeding up Michigan avenue, in whatever sort of
conveyance the taste of the tourist may select, a fine view is obtained
of some of the finest residences to be found in the whole city, many
of whose millionaires have built palatial homes at distances greater
or less from the business district. Michigan avenue proper extends
south to 35th street. At 35th street commence two boulevards, Drexel
boulevard and Grand boulevard. Drexel boulevard commences at Oakwood
and the junction of Cottage Grove avenue and 39th street, and has a
double drive-way 200 feet wide, having in its centre a wide strip of
turf dotted with shrubs and flowering plants, and at its western side a
soft track for equestrians. It was named after the Messrs. Drexel, the
famous bankers of Philadelphia, who, in appreciation of the compliment
thus bestowed, have erected a fine bronze fountain at the intersection
of Drexel avenue. Grand boulevard is a very similar stretch of road-way
in all respects. It runs south from 35th street, where South Park
avenue joins that thoroughfare, and forms the northwestern entrance to
Washington park. It also presents a beautiful road-way for driving and
has a side strip for equestrians, with flower beds, shrubs and green
turf on either side. Both of these boulevards are dotted by magnificent
private residences, the chosen homes of the wealthiest class in the
city. They form dual entrances to the circuit of boulevards leading to
the famous Washington park race-track, of which mention will be found
in another chapter.
Washington park, then, is entered from the beautiful drive-way on
Drexel boulevard, is most delightfully situated a little over a mile
from Lake Michigan and nearly seven miles southeast from the court
house, being bounded on the west and north by Cottage Grove avenue and
51st street, on the south by 60th street. In the opinion of many people
it is the finest of all of Chicago’s parks, being 371 acres in area,
its floral beauties and its charms of hillocks, shrubbery, woods and
water being almost beyond description. There is a great play-ground
100 acres in extent, upon which any one is free to indulge in any sort
of athletic game that fancy may dictate, also a large lake upon which
boating may be indulged. There is also a splendid conservatory, in
which many rare flowers of all lands may be viewed at any time. The
floral display is in charge of a great army of skilled gardeners, who
change the designs from season to season and always manage to turn out
something new.
Jackson park proper, the extreme southern part of which has been
selected as the site for the World’s Fair, lies about eight miles
southeast of the court house, being bounded as follows: on the west
by Stony Island avenue, on the north by 56th street, on the south
by 67th street and on the west by the blue waters of Lake Michigan.
The works incident to the preparation for the World’s Fair include
the excavating and dredging of the little lakes connected with Lake
Michigan. The preparations for the Fair have not materially interfered
with the northern portion of the park, the major portion of which is
devoted to a huge play-ground which is utilized all through the summer
by the devotees of tennis, base-ball and cricket, or by the militia as
a parade ground. Surrounding this open expanse of turf are beautiful
wooded avenues, while on the east side is a sea wall and promenade
from which a superb view may be had of the lake. Midway north and south
in the park, on the very edge of the water, is a large stone pavilion,
in which thousands of people may find shelter in rainy weather, and
which is sometimes used for dances and other festivities during the
summer months.
Visitors who desire to make a circuit of the South park system cannot
do better than patronize the phaetons which start every few minutes
from the northern terminus of Drexel boulevard and make the circuit in
about one hour, the charge for which is 25 cents.
It should be remembered that in case the visitor desires to make the
circuit of all the parks in a day the chain of boulevards extends
completely around the city. It is impossible to lose one’s way and
the merest hint at a desire for information at any point of the
journey will meet with the readiest response. In addition to the
parks herein described there are a number of smaller pretensions,
mere breathing-places, scattered about the city, that, while not
affording much opportunity for study, will, nevertheless, be found
to greatly enhance the attractions of the journey. The scene in any
of the great parks, particularly at night, when they are filled with
pleasure-seekers, will be found to be well worth investigation. At
that time there are all sorts and conditions of people to be found,
all bent upon the enjoyment of the hour and determined to console
themselves so far as they may for the trials and vexations of the day.
The moon is shedding an indulgent light down upon the merry-makers as
they stroll to and fro in laughing groups beneath the whispering trees.
There is light, mirth, laughter everywhere, and the merriment of the
idling wanderers is echoed from time to time by the rippling of the
water as it laps upon the sandy shore. It is indeed a pleasant picture.
Far away in the distance, separated by only a few miles of dusty roads,
is the great city, teeming with life, turmoil and wickedness. Here all
is peace. The air is soft and balmy, the spirits of the merry-makers
are at their highest without being vexed either by the recollection of
the tumult of the day or care for the morrow. The benison of night,
assisted by the art of mankind, is perhaps responsible for the beauty
of the scene and the spirit of happiness and content that prevails.
Visit any of the parks on a hot summer night for an hour or two, when
all the world is devoted to calm relaxation, and see if you do not
subscribe to the sentiment.