[Illustration: W. A. Whittle]
A BAPTIST ABROAD
OR
TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES
IN
EUROPE AND ALL BIBLE LANDS
BY
REV. WALTER ANDREW WHITTLE
WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY
HON. J. L. M. CURRY, LL.D.
WITH MAPS AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS.
“Where rose the mountains, there to him were friends;
Where rolled the ocean, thereon was his home;
Where a blue sky, and glowing clime, extends,
He had the passion and the power to roam;
The desert, forest, cavern, breaker’s foam,
Were unto him companionship; they spake
A mutual language, clearer than the tome
Of his land’s tongue, which he would oft forsake
For Nature’s page glassed by sunbeams on the lake.”
CHILDE HAROLD
NEW YORK:
J. A. HILL & CO.,
UNION SQUARE,
1890.
COPYRIGHT, 1890.
BY J. A. HILL & COMPANY.
All rights reserved.
MOTHER
WILL READ THIS BOOK
THROUGH
TWO PAIRS OF SPECTACLES.
ONE PAIR
WILL MAGNIFY ITS VIRTUES
WHILE THE OTHER
WILL DIMINISH ITS DEFECTS.
THEREFORE IT
IS AFFECTIONATELY AND LOVINGLY
DEDICATED TO
MOTHER.
INTRODUCTION.
Next to seeing a foreign land with one’s own eyes is seeing it through
the eyes of an intelligent, appreciative countryman. The word is
purposely chosen, because one wishes to know what is observed and
thought by a person who has tastes, sympathies and views in common
with himself. A thousand things in a strange country are interesting
and in different degrees. One studies historically, another socially,
another politically, another ecclesiastically, while unfortunately not
a few rush pell-mell bringing back the most superficial and indistinct
impressions. Some find most satisfaction in architecture, while others
have their chiefest enjoyment in sculpture, in painting, in natural
scenery, in costumes and customs. No two have precisely the same
fancies, and yet an observant, cultivated countryman is more likely
to please us by what he likes and describes than is a foreigner whose
point of view and whose mental habitudes are so different from our
own. What is most pleasing in a book of travels is wide and varied
observation, is an account of several countries inhabited by different
races and distinguished by marked peculiarities.
This volume embraces a wide extent of travel, and includes an account
of visits to Great Britain, Switzerland, Italy, Turkey, Greece,
Palestine, Egypt, etc. The full table of contents is a little
misleading, for the chapters pertaining to Europe are short, and
Palestine takes up a considerable portion of the work. The author,
avoiding what is dry or didactic, manages to compress into his
pages much valuable and trustworthy information. His own religious
denomination, naturally and properly, is not overlooked, and from
eminent men he has succeeded in obtaining monographs which give
interesting facts, drawn from most authentic sources. The portraitures
of men, of whom everybody wishes to know more, constitute an
interesting feature of the book.
The journey was not a mere vacation tour, a hasty gallop to points
visited by circular tourists, but it comprised many months of patient
toil, nor were the countries seen from the windows of the car of an
express train. Lubboch, in his essay on the Pleasures of Travel, says
that some think that every one should travel on foot “like Thales,
Plato and Pythagoras.” Mr. Whittle is a pedestrian by choice, full
of enterprise, activity, courage and enthusiasm, and on foot he
deviated often from the beaten paths, and had opportunities for
careful examination of objects of interest and for much pleasant and
instructive intercourse with the “common people.” With an eye quick to
discern what was peculiar, with an unquenchable thirst for knowledge,
he combined a cheerful disposition, a ready appreciation of the
humorous, and has succeeded in giving the public a volume, every page
of which is interesting.
Travel, as a means of improvement, of education, of broadening horizon,
of getting us out of narrow ruts, can hardly be overestimated. A
visit to Europe, Africa and Asia makes objective what was subjective,
and gives realism to what was before vaguely in our memories. Some
acquaintance with geography, with history, literature, art, enhances
the interest and the profit. A young student who had visited Jerusalem
was much flattered by a request from Humboldt to call and see him.
The _savant_ soon showed that from reading and inquiry he had more
knowledge of the city than the youth had acquired by his visit. With
some mortification and a little petulance the young man said: “I
understood, sir, that you had never visited the Holy City.” “True,”
replied Humboldt, “I never have; but I once got ready to go.” Mr.
Whittle, with wise forethought, had made preparation for his visit.
He knew what he wanted to see, traveled with a purpose, and has so
imparted to his readers what he learned and observed that one catches
in part the enthusiasm of the traveler.
J. L. M. CURRY.
PREFACE.
“Around the World in Eighty Days” has had an extensive circulation,
especially in America. The title is striking. Our people like to do
things quickly. Many of them would be glad to girdle the globe in forty
days. They forget that “what is worth doing at all is worth doing
well.” Under the patronage of Tourist Agencies it has become quite
fashionable of late to _do Europe in three months_. These flying trips
do perhaps result in some good to the tourist, but they are valuable
chiefly to the agencies under which they are made.
Traveling is no child’s play. Sight seeing when properly done is
hard work, but hard work is the kind of work that pays best in the
long run. To see any country aright and understand it correctly one
must not merely visit its fashionable watering places, large cities,
splendid abbeys and cathedrals, noted art galleries, museums, etc. He
must see these things to be sure, but in addition to these he must,
in order to get a correct conception, go out into the mountains, into
the rural districts, and there study the soil, climate and products of
the country. He must commune with the yeomanry the common people, and
closely scrutinize their daily life and habits. He must see, as best
he can, how climate, political surroundings, education, occupation,
and religion affect their character. He must project himself as far as
possible into the thoughts and feelings of the people among whom he is
traveling. This prepares him to sympathize with them, and to look at
things from their standpoint. The traveler is then prepared to reason
from cause to effect. He has gotten hold of that golden thread of
truth which leads to right conclusions. He is in condition to explain
upon correct and philosophical principles the Socialism of France, the
Skepticism of Germany, the Nihilism of Russia, and the Pauperism of
Turkey.
Having under the providence of God been permitted to make an extensive
and prolonged trip through the East, I determined from the outset to
get out of the _beaten tracks of travel_. In applying the above-named
principles, I walked a thousand miles through different European
countries, and rode six hundred miles and more in the saddle through
Bible lands. This necessarily gave me a varied experience, and brought
me into close contact with every phase of nature and human nature. At
times every faculty of mind and heart was stirred to its profoundest
depths. I was forced to think. And, lest these thrilling thoughts
should slip away from me, I determined “to fasten them in words and
chain them in writing.” I agree with Gray that “a few words fixed upon
or near the spot are worth a cartload of _recollection_.”
This accounts to some extent for the use of the present tense in the
book, and also for the colloquial style in which it is written—it was
composed _on or near the spot_. True, since then it has been carefully
revised, re-written and enlarged; but originally it was written
“on the spot.” I made these pages my trusted confidant. To them I
expressed my “every thought and floating fancy,” and my words formed
a true thermometer to my soul. But now I release these pages from all
obligations of secrecy. They may tell it in Gath, and withhold it not
in Askelon. I propose to take the public into my confidence. “In short,
never did ten shillings purchase so much friendship since confidence
went first to market, or honesty was set up to sale.”
I have carefully excluded all _opiates_ from these pages. Brevity is
the only claim I make to wit. I have not attempted to exhaust the
subjects treated. My words are intended simply to strike the reader’s
thoughts which may interpret further. “If you would be prudent, be
brief,” says Southey, “for ‘tis with words as with sunbeams, the more
they are condensed the deeper they burn.”
“Clarence P. Johnson” was my man “Friday,” and from some of the
jokes gotten off at his expense the reader may conclude that he is a
“man-eater,” as was that other Friday of Robinson Crusoe fame. But
not so. This was his maiden trip out of his native city. Such things
happened to him while traveling as would naturally occur with any other
youth under the same circumstances. He is a young man of fine spirit
and extraordinary business capacity. He will some day be known and felt
in the commercial world.
It gives me peculiar pleasure to acknowledge my indebtedness to
Professor John R. Sampey, D. D., for valuable assistance rendered while
preparing this book for the press.
I have made free use of a wide range of literature, but trust that
in each case due credit has been given to the author. Many of the
measurements given were made by myself, others have been taken from
reliable sources.
While abroad, I made it a special point to study the history and
outlook of the Baptists in each of the several countries through
which I traveled, and I have not failed to record the result of
my observations. But, in order to have Baptist history correctly,
authentically, and impartially given, I have secured chapters from
eminent men on the Baptists of their several countries.
W. A. W.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
OFF FOR NEW YORK.
Preparations—A Prayer and a Benediction—An Impatient Horse and
a Run for Eternity—Strange Sceptre and Despotic Sway—Beauty in
White Robes—Approaching the Metropolis—Business Heart of the
New World—A Bright Face and a Cordial Greeting—An Hour with the
President—More for a Shilling and Less for a Pound—A Stranger
Dies in the Author’s Arms—Namesake—Prospects of Becoming a Great
Man—A Confused College Student—The Hour of Departure—Native
Land. Page, 23
CHAPTER II.
ON THE HIGH SEAS.
A Difficulty with the Officers of the Ship—A Parting
Scene—Danger on the Atlantic—A Parallel Drawn—Liberty
Enlightening the World—Life on the Ocean Wave—Friends for the
Journey—The Ship a Little World—A Clown and his Partner—Birds
of a Feather—Whales—Brain Food—Storm at Sea—A Frightened
Preacher—Storm Rages—A Sea of Glory—Richard Himself Again—Land
in Sight—Scene Described—Historic Castle—Voyage Ended—Two
Irishmen. Page, 29
CHAPTER III.
THE LAND OF BURNS.
English Railway Coaches—Millionaires, Crowned Heads, and Fools—A
Conductor Caught on a Cow-catcher—Last Rose of Summer—Off on
Foot to the Land of Burns—Appearance of Country and Condition of
People—Destination Reached—Doctor Whitsitt and Oliver Twist—The
Ploughman Poet—His Cottage—His Relics—His Work and Worth—His
Grave and Monument—A Broad View of Life. Page, 38
CHAPTER IV.
EDINBURGH.
A Jolly Party of Americans—Dim-Eyed Pilgrim—Young Goslings—An
American Goose Ranch—Birthplace of Robert Pollok and Mary
Queen of Scots—The Boston of Europe—Home of Illustrious Men—A
Monument to the Author—Monument to Sir Walter Scott—Edinburgh
Castle—Murdered and Head Placed on the Wall—Cromwell’s
Siege—Stones of Power—A Dazzling Diadem—A Golden Collar—Baptized
in Blood—Meeting American Friends. Page, 47
CHAPTER V.
A TRAMP-TRIP THROUGH THE HIGHLANDS.
His Royal Highness and a Demand for Fresh Air—A Boy in
his Father’s Clothes—Among the Common People—Nature’s
Stronghold—Treason Found in Trust—Body Quartered and Exposed
on Iron Spikes—Receiving a Royal Salute—Following no Road but
a Winding River—Sleeveless Dresses and Dyed Hands—Obelisk to a
Novelist and Poet—On the Scotch Lakes—Eyes to See but See Not—A
Night of Rest and a Morning of Surprise—A Terrestrial Heaven—A
Poetic Inspiration—A Deceptive Mountain—A Glittering Crown—Hard
to Climb—An Adventure and a Narrow Escape—Johnson Gives Out—Put
to Bed on the Mountain Side—On and Up—A Summit at Last—Niagara
Petrified—Overtaken by the Night—Johnson Lost in the Mountains—A
Fruitless Search—Bewildered—Exhausted—Sick. Page, 57
CHAPTER VI.
A GENERAL VIEW OF SCOTLAND.
Highlands and Lowlands—Locked up for Fifteen Days—The Need of
a Good Sole—A Soft Side of a Rock—The Charm of Reading on the
Spot—A Fearful Experience—Bit and Bridle—Thunder-Riven—Volcanic
Eruption—Dangerous Pits—An Hundred-Eyed Devil—Gloomy
Dens—Meeting an Enemy—Eyes Like Balls of Fire—Voice Like Rolling
Thunder—A Speedy Departure—Leaping from Rock to Rock—Silver
Thread among the Mountains—Imperishable Tablets—The Cave of
Rob Roy and the land of the MacGregors—Lady of the Lake and
Ellen’s Isle—Lodging with Peasants and with Gentlemen—Rising
in Mutiny—Strange Fuel—Character of Scotch People—Scotch
Baptists—Sunrise at Two O’Clock in the Morning. Page, 67
CHAPTER VII.
FROM DUNDEE TO MANCHESTER.
Scotch Presbyterians in Convention—Their Character and
Bearing—On the Footpath to Abbotsford—The Home of Scott—Five
Miles through the Fields—Melrose Abbey and the Heart of
Bruce—Hospitality of a Baptist Preacher—Adieu to Scotland—Merry
England—Manchester—Exposition and Prince of Wales—Manchester
and Cotton Manufacturers—A $25,000,000 Scheme—Dr. Alexander
Maclaren—His Appearance—The Force of his Thought—The Witchery of
his Eloquence—His Hospitality Enjoyed—A Promise Made. Page, 75
CHAPTER VIII.
BAPTIST CENTENNIAL.
Three Baptist Associations—Centennial Year and Jubilee
Year—Baptists Seen at their Best—Doctor Alexander
Maclaren—Matchless Eloquence—Hon. John Bright Delivers an
Address—Boundless Enthusiasm—English Hospitality—A Home with the
Mayor. Page, 84
CHAPTER IX.
A SOJOURN IN ENGLAND AND ON TO WALES.
Arrested and Imprisoned—Released without a
Trial—Nottingham—Dwellers in Caves—Seven Hundred Years
Old—Forests of Ivanhoe and Robin Hood—Birthplace of Henry Kirk
White—Home of the Pilgrim Fathers—Home of Thomas Cranmer—A
Guide’s Information—Home of Lord Byron—Wild Beasts from the Dark
Continent—A Sad Epitaph—Byron’s Grave—A Wedding Scene—Marriage
Customs—Wales and Sea-Bathing—Among the Mountains—Welsh
Baptists—A Tottering Establishment. Page, 90
CHAPTER X.
LONDON.
Entering London—The Great City Crowded—Six Million Five Hundred
Thousand People Together—Lost in London—A Human Niagara—A
Policeman and a Lockup—The Jubilee and the Golden Wedding—“God
Save the Queen.” and God Save the People—Amid England’s Shouts
and Ireland’s Groans Heard. Page, 98
CHAPTER XI.
SIGHTS OF LONDON.
Traveling in London—London a Studio—The Hum of Folly and the
Sleep of Traffic—Five Million Heads in Nightcaps—Too Many People
Together—Survival of the Fittest—Place and Pride—Poverty and
Penury—Beneficence in London—East End—Assembly Hall—A Converted
Brewer—His Great Work—Meeting an Old Schoolmate. Page, 107
CHAPTER XII.
A TRIO OF ILLUSTRIOUS MEN.
Joseph Parker—Canon Farrar—Charles H. Spurgeon. Page, 118
CHAPTER XIII.
NOTTINGHAM, CAMBRIDGE, AND BEDFORD.
Preaching to 2,500 People—Entertained after the Manner of
Royalty—Excursion to Cambridge—What Happened on the Way—Received
an Entertainment by the Mayor—Cambridge University—King’s
Chapel—Fitzwilliam Museum—Trinity College—Cambridge Bibles—Adieu
to Friends—Bedford—The Church where John Bunyan Preached—Bedford
Jail, where Bunyan wrote _Pilgrim’s Progress_—Bunyan’s
Statue—Elstow, Bunyan’s Birthplace—His Cottage—His Chapel—An Old
Elm Tree. Page, 123
CHAPTER XIV.
THE BAPTISTS OF ENGLAND.
Their Number and Divisions—The Regular Baptists—Their
Movements and Progress. Page, 130
CHAPTER XV.
LAST OF ENGLAND AND FIRST OF THE CONTINENT.
Windsor Castle, the Home of England’s Queen—Queen Victoria—The
Home of Shakespeare—Across the Channel—First Impressions—Old
Time Ways—Brussels on a Parade—Waterloo Re-enacted—A Visit to
the Field of Waterloo—A Lion with Eyes Fixed on France—Interview
with a Man who Saw Napoleon—Wertz Museum—“Napoleon in
Hell”—“Hell in Revolt against Heaven”—“Triumph of Christ”—Age
Offering the Things of the Present to the Man of the Future.
Page, 143
CHAPTER XVI.
FROM BELGIUM TO COLOGNE AND UP THE RHINE.
Brussels—Its Laces and Carpets—Belgium a
Small Country—Cultivated like a Garden—Into
Germany—Aix-La-Chapelle—Birthplace of Charlemagne—Capital of
Holy Roman Empire—Cathedral Built by Charlemagne—A Strange
Legend—Shrine of the Four Relics—A Pulpit Adorned with Ivory and
Studded with Diamonds—Cologne—Its Inhabitants—Its Perfumery—Its
Cathedral—A Ponderous Bell—A Church Built of Human Bones—Sailing
up the Rhine—A River of Song—Bonn—Its University—Birthplace
of Beethoven—Feudal Lords—The Bloody Rhine—Dragon’s Rock—A
Combat with a Serpent—A Convent with a Love Story—Empress
of the Night—Intoxicated—Coblentz—A Tramp-Trip through
Germany—Sixteen Thousand Soldiers Engaged in Battle—Enchanted
Region—Loreli—Son-in-Law of Augustus Caesar—Birthplace of
Gutenberg, the Inventor of Printing. Page, 155
CHAPTER XVII.
FROM FRANKFORT TO WORMS.
Frankfort-on-the-Main—Met at Depot by a Committee—Frankfort, the
Home of Culture and Art—Birthplace of Goethe—“He Preaches like a
God”—The Home of Rothschild—A Visit to his House—Worms and its
History—Luther and a Bad Diet—Luther Monument—Theses Nailed on
the Door—Fame of Luther and his Followers more Imperishable than
their Bronze Statues. Page, 168
CHAPTER XVIII.
GERMAN BAPTISTS.
A Weak Beginning—Persecutions—Firm Faith—Rapid Growth—A Trio of
Leaders—Theological Schools—Publishing House—Hopeful Outlook.
Page, 174
CHAPTER XIX.
OUT OF GERMANY INTO SWITZERLAND.
A Lesson from Nature—Tramp-Trip through the Black
Forests—Heidelberg Castle—Basle, Switzerland—Met by a
Friend—Emigrants off for America—Delivering an Address to
the Emigrants—The Grave of Erasmus—Gateway to the Heart of
the Alps—Snowy Peaks—Rendezvous of the Nations—Beautiful
Scene—Moonlight on the Lake—Sweet Music—Pretty Girls—Mountains
Shaken with Thunder and Wrapped with Fire. Page, 184
CHAPTER XX.
SWITZERLAND AS SEEN ON FOOT.
Alpine Fever—Flags of Truce—Schiller and the Swiss Hero—Tell’s
Statue and Chapel—Ascent of the Rigi—Beautiful Scenery—Famous
Falls—Rambles in the Mountains—Glaciers—The Matterhorn—Yung
Frau—Ascent of Mount Blanc—An Eagle in the Clouds—Switzerland
and her People—The Oldest Republic in the World—“Home,
Sweet Home”—High Living—Land Owners—Alpine Folk—Night Spent
in a Swiss Chalet—Johnson in Trouble—Walk of Six Hundred
Miles—Famous Alpine Pass—A Night above the Clouds—Saint Bernard
Hospice—Overtaken in a Snow-Storm—Hunting Dead Men—The Alps as
a Monument—Geneva—Prison of Chilon—How Time was Spent—Tongue of
Praise. Page, 190
CHAPTER XXI.
BAPTIST MISSION WORK IN FRANCE.
Incipiency of the Work—Obstacles to Overcome—Progress —Hopeful
Outlook. Page, 213
CHAPTER XXII.
FROM VIENNA DOWN THE DANUBE TO CONSTANTINOPLE.
A Black Night on the Black Sea—A Doleful Dirge—Two Thousand
Miles—Vienna—Its Architecture—Its Palace—Its Art Galleries and
Museums—Through Hungary, Servia, Slavonia, and Bulgaria—Cities
and Scenery along the Danube—Products of the Countries—Entering
the Bosphorus amid a War of the Elements—Between Two
Continents—Constantinople—Difficulty with a Turkish Official—A
Babel of Tongues—The Sultan at Prayer—Twenty Thousand Soldiers
on Guard—Multiplicity of Wives—Man-Slayer. Page, 220
CHAPTER XXIII.
FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO ATHENS.
A Stormy Day on Marmora—Sunrise on Mount Olympus—Brusa,
the Ancient Capital of Turkey—Ancient Troy—Homeric
Heroes—Agamemnon’s Fleet—The Wooden Horse—Paul’s Vision
at Troas—Athens—A Lesson in Greek—The Acropolis—The
Parthenon—Modern Athens—Temple of Jupiter—The Prison of
Socrates—The Platform of Demosthenes—Mars Hill and Paul’s
Sermon—Influence of the Ancients. Page, 230
CHAPTER XXIV.
ASIA MINOR AND THE ISLAND OF PATMOS.
Smyrna—Its Commerce—Its Population—Famed Women—Home of the
Apostle John—One of the Seven Asiatic Churches—Martyrdom and
Tomb of Polycarp—Emblematic Olive Tree—Out into the Interior
of Asia Minor—Struck by Lightning—Visit to Ephesus—Birthplace
of Mythology—Temple of Diana—Relics of the Past—Homer’s
Birthplace—A Baptist Preacher and a Protracted Meeting—John the
Baptist and the Virgin Mary—Timothy’s Grave—Cave of the Seven
Sleepers—Return to Smyrna—Sail to Patmos—Patmos, the Exiled Home
of the Apostle John—The Island of Rhodes and the Colossus—Death
and Disease on the Ship—Quarantined—A Watery Grave—Hope Anchored
within the Vail. Page, 240
CHAPTER XXV.
FROM BEYROUT TO THE CEDARS OF LEBANON.
Landing at Beyrout—Escape from Death—Thankful Hearts—Seed
Planted—Desire Springs up—Bud of Hope—Golden Fruit—“By
God’s Help”—Preparations—New Traveling Companions—Employing
a Dragoman—A Many-Sided Man Required to Make a Successful
Traveler—“Equestrian Pilgrims”—A Great Caravan—Ships of the
Desert—Preparations for War—A Dangerous Mishap—National
Hymn—Journey Begun—Mulberry Trees—Fig-Leaf Dresses—An Inspiring
Conversation—The Language of Balaam—City of Tents—General
Rejoicing—Tidings of Sadness—Welcome News—First Night in
Tents—Sabbath Day’s Rest—Johnson and his Grandmother—A Wedding
Procession—Johnson Delighted—Brides Bought and Sold—Increase
in Price—Inferiority of Woman—Multiplicity of Wives—Folding of
Tents—Camel Pasture—Leave Damascus Road—Noah’s Tomb, Eighty-Five
Feet Long—Perilous Ascent—Brave Woman—“If I Die, Carry Me on to
the Top”—The Cedars at Last—Emotions Stirred—“The Righteous Grow
like the Cedars of Lebanon”—Amnon. Page, 250
CHAPTER XXVI.
FROM THE CEDARS OF LEBANON TO BAALBEK.
Returning to Tents—Mountain Spurs and Passes—A Modern
Thermopylae—Two Caravans Meet—A Fight to the Death—How Johnson
Looks—Victory at Last—Into the Valley where the King Lost his
Eyes—Playing at Agriculture—Squalid Poverty—Baalbek—Its Mighty
Temples—Men, Mice and Monkeys—A Poem Writ in Marble. Page, 269
CHAPTER XXVII.
DAMASCUS.
A Beautiful Valley—Flowing Rivers—Mohammed at
Damascus—Garden of God—Paul at Damascus—Mohammedan
at Prayer—Valley More Beautiful—Damascus Exclusively
Oriental—Quaint Architecture—“Often in Wooden Houses
Golden Rooms we Find”—Narrow Streets—Industrious
People—Shoe Bazaars—Manufacturing Silk by hand—Fanatical
Merchants—“Christian Dogs”—Cabinet-Making—Furniture Inlaid
with Pearl—Camel Markets—A Progenitor of the Mule—Machinery
Unknown—Ignorance Stalks Abroad—Fanatical Arabs—A Massacre—The
Governor Gives the Signal—Christians Killed—French Army—Abraham
Our Guide—Brained before Reaching the Post-Office—Warned not
to Look at the Women—Johnson’s Regret—Vailed Women—Johnson’s
Explanation. Page, 276
CHAPTER XXVIII.
THE NAAMAN HOSPITAL FOR THE LEPROSY.
Naaman, the Leper—His Visit to Elisha—The Prophet’s
Command—Naaman Cured—House Turned into a Leper Hospital—Off to
the Lepers’ Den—Origin, History and Nature of Leprosy—Arrival at
the Gloomy Prison—Abraham, “I Didn’t Promise to Go into the Tomb
with You”—“Screw your Courage to the Sticking Point”—Johnson’s
Reply—Suspicious of the Arab Gate-Keepers—A Charge to
Abraham—Life in Johnson’s Hands—Mamie and the Currant-Bush—Among
the Lepers—Judgment Come—Graves Open—Living Corpses—Walking
Skeletons—Strewing out Coins—An Indescribable Scene—An Indelible
Picture—Horrible Dreams. Page, 292
CHAPTER XXIX.
FROM DAMASCUS TO THE SEA OF GALILEE.
Sick, nigh unto Death—“Night Bringeth out the Stars”—Mount
Hermon and the Transfiguration—Beautiful Camp-Ground—Amnon,
the Reliable—“Thou Art Peter”—Fountain of the Jordan—Slaughter
of the Buffaloes—Crossing into Galilee—Dan—Abraham’s Visit—A
Fertile Valley—Wooden Plows—A Bedouin Village—Costumes of Eden—A
Gory Field—Sea of Galilee—Sacred Memories—The Evening Hour—A
Soliloquy—Bathing—Sailing—Fishing. Page, 303
CHAPTER XXX.
FROM THE SEA OF GALILEE TO NAZARETH.
A Seven Hour’s Journey—A Rough Road and a Hot
Sun—Gazelles—Nimrods of To-day—Historic Corn-Field—Cana
of Galilee—First Miracle—Cana at Present—Greek and
Roman Convents—Conflicting Stories of Greek and Latin
Priests—Explanation—An Important Fact—Marriage Divinely
Instituted—Woman Degraded—Woman Honored—Description
of Nazareth—Childhood Home of Jesus—Jesus and the
Flower-Garden—Studying Nature—He Goes to the Mountain
Top—Without Bounds or Limits—A Fit Play-Ground and Suitable
School-Room for the Royal Child—Rock Bluff where the People
Tried to “Cast him down Headlong”—The Carpenter Shop—The
Virgin’s Fountain—Nazareth at Present—Protestant Missions—A
Short Sermon and a Sweet Song. Page, 319
CHAPTER XXXI.
A CHARACTERISTIC SCENE IN THE ORIENT.
Shepherd Tents—Many Flocks in One Sheep-Cote for the Night—Many
Merchants from Different Countries—Ships Anchored—Arabs at
Meal—Arabs Smoking—Shepherds with their Reed-Pipes—Merchants’
Response—Music and Dancing at Night—Bustle and Confusion in
the Morning—Fight Like Madmen—Over-Burdened Camels—Camp Broken
up—Dothan and Joseph’s Pit—Money-Loving Mohammedans—Crafty
Jews—Return to Tents—The Shepherds Awaken—Crook, Sling and
Reed-Pipe—David and Goliath—Shepherds under the Star-Lit
Sky—”Glory to God in the Highest.” Page, 337
CHAPTER XXXII.
FROM JERUSALEM TO JERICHO.
A Man “Fell among Thieves”—The Way still Lined with
Thieves—Guards Necessary—Across the Mount of Olives—Bethany
and its Memories—David’s Flight from Jerusalem—”Halt!
Halt!”—Seized with Terror—Splendid Horsemanship—”A Hard Road to
Trabble”—Inn where the Good Samaritan Left the Jew—Brigands on
the Way-side—Robbers and Guards in Collusion—Topography of the
Country—Dangers and Difficulties—Perilous Places Passed—Plain
of Jericho—Writhing in Agony—The City of Palms—Trumps of
Joshua—Jericho in the Time of Herod—Iron-Fingered Fate—Jericho
at Present—A Divine Region—Pool of Moses—Antony and Cleopatra.
Page, 346
CHAPTER XXXIII.
BEYOND THE JORDAN.
Plain of Moab—Children of Israel—Moses’s Request—Moab a Rich
Country—Lawless Clans—A Traveler Brutally Murdered—A Typical
Son of Ishmael—Dens and Strongholds—Captured by a Clan of
Arabs—Shut up in Mountain Caves—Heavy Ransom Exacted—The
Moabite Stone—Confirmation of Scripture—Machaerus—John the
Baptist—Prison Chambers—Character of John—How to Gauge a
Life—Hot-Springs—Herod’s Visit—”Smell of Blood still”—Mount
Nebo—Fine View—Life of Moses—From Egypt to Nebo—An Arab
Legend—Death of Moses. Page, 362
CHAPTER XXXIV.
THE JORDAN.
Two Thoughts—From Nebo to the River—Thrilling Emotions—Historic
Ground—A Sacred Scene—An Earnest Preacher—Christ
Baptized—Awe-Stricken People—A Sacred River—Bathing of
Pilgrims—Robes Become Shrouds—The Ghor of the Jordan—The Valley
an Inclined Plane—The Three Sources of the River—The Jordan
Proper—Banks—Tributaries—Bridges—River Channel—Velocity of the
Water—Its Temperature—Its Width and Depth—Vegetation along the
Stream—Wild Beasts—Birds. Page, 380
CHAPTER XXXV.
THE DEAD SEA.
A Wonderful Body of Water—Receives 20,000,000 Cubic Feet of
Water per Day—Has no Outlet—Never Fills Up—In the Sea—Johnson’s
Suggestion as to my Identity—Why One Cannot Sink—”Salt
Sea”—Caught in a Storm—Danger of Death—Dreary Waste—Sea of
Fire—Johnson’s Argument—New-Born Babe—Child Dies—Lot’s Wife—Her
Past History and Present Condition—The Frenchman’s Book—Why the
Sea is so Salt—Why it Never Fills Up—Sown with Diamonds—Origin
of the Dead Sea—God’s Wrath—The Sodom Apple—The Sea an Emblem of
Death. Page, 397
CHAPTER XXXVI.
TWO RUSSIAN PILGRIMS, OR A PICTURE OF LIFE.
A Steep Mountain—Rough Base—Beautiful Summit—Russian
Pilgrims—Journey up Mountain—Life’s Hill—Courage in
Heart—Marriage Altar—Long Pilgrimage—Star of Hope. Page, 409
CHAPTER XXXVII.
FROM JERUSALEM, VIA BETHLEHEM AND POOLS OF SOLOMON, TO HEBRON.
Rachel’s Tomb—Bethlehem—Ruth and Boas—David the Shepherd
Lad—Cave of the Nativity—Pools of Solomon—Royal Gardens—The Home
of Abraham—Abraham’s Oak—Abraham’s Mummy. Page, 414
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
FROM DAN TO BEERSHEBA.
Palestine—Its Situation—Its Dimensions—Its Names—Its
Topography—Its Climate—Its Seasons—Its Agriculture—Its
People—The Pleasure of Traveling through Palestine. Page, 426
CHAPTER XXXIX.
JERUSALEM.
Approaching Jerusalem—Coming Events—Dreams—Light Breaks
In—Serenade—Zion, the City of God—Prayers Answered—Gratitude—A
Vision of Peace—Blighted Fig-Tree—Still a Holy City—Prominence
of Jerusalem—Its Influence among the Nations—A Melted
Heart—Tents Pitched—Walk About Zion—Situation of the City—Its
Walls—Its Gates—Afraid of Christ—Crossing the Kedron—Tomb of
Virgin Mary—Gethsemane—What it Means, What it Is, and How it
Looks—Superstitious Monks—Jerusalem Viewed from the Mount of
Olives—Architecture of the City—Prominent Objects—Entering the
City—Its Streets—Its Population—Jewish Theologues—Remaining
Portion of Solomon’s Temple—”Wailing Place” of the Jews—Kissing
the Wall—Weeping Aloud—Fulfillment of Prophecy—Only One
Conclusion. Page, 445
CHAPTER XL.
JERUSALEM CONTINUED—MOSQUE OF OMAR.
Haram Area—Its Past and Present—Wall—Gates—Stopped at the Point
of Daggers—Legal Papers and Special Escort—Mosque of Omar—Its
Exterior and Interior—A Great Rock Within—History and Legends
Connected with the Rock—Mohammed’s Ascent to Heaven—Place of
Departed Spirits—Their Rescue—Ark of the Covenant—Golden Key.
Page, 467
CHAPTER XLI.
IN AND AROUND JERUSALEM.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre—Peculiar Architecture—Strange
Partnership—The Centre of the Earth—The Grave of
Adam—Unaccountable Superstitions—An Underground World—Pool of
Siloam—Kedron Valley—The Final Judgment—Tomb of the Kings—Valley
of Hinnom—Lower Pool of Gihon—Moloch—Gehenna—Upper Pool of
Gihon—Calvary—The Savior’s Tomb. Page, 479
CHAPTER XLII.
EGYPT.
Jaffa—Its History and its Orange Orchard—On the
Mediterranean—Port Said—Suez Canal—The Red Sea—Pharaoh and his
Host Swallowed Up—From Suez to Cairo—Arabian Nights—Egyptian
Museum—Royal Mummies—A Look at Pharaoh—A Mummy 5,700 Years
Old—A Talk with the King—Christmas-Day and a Generous
Rivalry—Donkey-Boys of Cairo—Wolves around a Helpless
Lamb—Johnson on his Knees—Yankee Doodle—The Nile—The Prince of
Wales—Pyramid in the Distance—Face to Face with the Pyramid
of Cheops—Ascending the Pyramid—Going in it—Johnson Cries for
Help—The Sphinx, and what it is Thinking about. Page, 495
CHAPTER XLIII.
A BURIED CITY—POMPEII.
Long Shut Out of Civilization—Four Days in Gehenna—Paul’s
Experience Co-Incides with Ours—Dead—Buried—A Stone Against
the Door—Raised from the Grave—Under an Italian Sky—”See
Naples and Die”—Off for the City of the Dead—Knocking for
Entrance—Earthquake—Re-Built—Location of the City—Boasted
Perfection—City Destroyed by a Volcano—Vivid Description
by an Eye-Witness—Rich Field for Excavation—What Has been
Found—Returns to Get Gold—Poetical Inspiration—Pompeii at
Present—Mistaken Dedication. Page, 515
CHAPTER XLIV.
VESUVIUS IN ACTION.
As it Looks by Day and by Night—Leaving Naples—First Sight
of Vesuvius—Description—The Number of Volcanoes—Off to See
the Burning Mountain—A Nameless Horse—Respect for Age—Refuse
Portantina—Mountain of Shot—A Dweller in a Cave—A Slimy
Serpent for a Companion—Jets of Steam—Vulcan’s Forge—Exposed
to a Horrible Death—Upheavals of Lava—Showers of Fire—Fiery
Fiends—Winged Devils—Tongue of Fire—A Voice of Thunder. Page, 526
CHAPTER XLV.
ROME—ANCIENT AND MODERN.
The Mother of Empires—Weeps and Will not be Comforted—Nero’s
Golden Palace—Ruined Greatness—Time, the Tomb-Builder—Papal
Rome—The Last Siege—Self-Congratulations—Better Out-Look—The
Seven-Hilled City—Vanity of Vanities—The Pantheon—Nature Slew
Him—The Shrine of All Saints. Page, 535
CHAPTER XLVI.
ROME—ITS ART AND ARCHITECTURE.
A Question Asked—Answer Given—Nature as Teacher—Italians
as Pupils—Great Artists—The Inferno—The Cardinal in
Hell—The Pope’s Reply—A Thing of Beauty—The Beloved—The
Transfiguration—Architecture—Marble Men Struggle to
Speak—Resplendent Gems. Page, 544
CHAPTER XLVII.
BAPTIST MISSION WORK IN ITALY.
Why Italy is a Mission-Field—Beginning of the
Work—Difficulties—Increase of Forces—Growth of Work—Sanguine
Expectations. Page, 553
CHAPTER XLVIII.
FROM ROME, VIA FLORENCE TO VENICE.
Peasants—A Three-Fold Crop—Elba, the Exiled Home of
Napoleon—Pisa—Leaning Tower—An Odd Burial-Ground—Florence—The
Home of Savonarola, Dante, and Michael Angelo—Art Galleries—On
to Venice—A Flood—Johnson Excited—Storm Raging—Lightening the
Ship—Venice, a Water-Lily—No Streets but Water—No Carriages but
Gondolas—Shylocks. Page, 563
ILLUSTRATIONS.
COLORED PLATES. Page.
The River Jordan, where it is supposed Christ
was baptised, 380
Vesuvius in Action, 526
MAP.
Palestine—Time of Christ, 250
WOOD ENGRAVINGS, PHOTO-ENGRAVINGS, ETC.
Steel Plate of the Author—Frontispiece,
Clarence P. Johnson, 40
Burns’ Cottage, 42
Burns’ Monument, 45
Edinburgh, 48
Scott’s Monument, 51
Edinburgh Castle, 53
Abbotsford, 76
Melrose Abbey, 78
Newstead Abbey, 94
Chapel of Henry VII, Westminster Abbey, 104
Nelson’s Monument, 106
The House of Parliament, 109
The Tower of London, 112
St. Paul’s Cathedral, 115
Chas. H. Spurgeon, 120
Bunyan’s Cottage, 129
Edward Parker, 132
Queen Victoria, 144
Windsor Castle, 146
The Home of Shakespeare, etc., (six pictures,) 148
Strasburg Cathedral, 158
View on the Rhine, 164
Giessbach Falls, 192
A Glacier in Switzerland, 197
Among the Peaks, 202
Hospice in the Alps, 208
Swiss Mountains, 211
The Belvidere, Vienna, 221
The Danube, 224
Castle on the Danube, 226
Constantinople, 228
Modern Athens, 231
The Acropolis, 233
The Parthenon of the Acropolis, 234
The Acropolis of Athens as it was, 235
Turkish Lady, 243
Island of Patmos, 247
Cedars of Lebanon, 263
Ruins of Baalbek, 274
Damascus, 278
Tombs of the Caliphs, 290
Sea of Galilee, 313
Palms in Bush Form, 321
Priest of the Greek Church, 325
Vale and City of Nazareth, 330
Interior of a Caravansary, 338
Dancing Girl, 341
Snake Charmer, 343
Ancient Sheep Fold, 344
Mt. of Olives, 348
An Arab Horseman, 350
A Bedouin, 352
View on the Road from Jerusalem to Jericho, 356
Ford of the Jordan, 391
View in the Valley of the Jordan, 395
The Dead Sea, 399
Lot’s Wife, 402
Ruth, 415
Cave of the Nativity, 418
Bethlehem, 420
Pools of Solomon, 423
Mosque of Hebron, 424
Government Guards, 438
Jerusalem, 448
Hills and Walls of Jerusalem, 450
Old Olive Trees in Gethsemane, 455
Street in Jerusalem, 459
Wailing Place of the Jews, 461
Mosque of Omar, 470
Solomon’s Temple as it was, 474
Holy Sepulchre, 483
Pool of Siloam, 486
Tombs of the Kings of Judah, 489
Burial of Christ, 492
The Castle of David and Jaffa Gate, 497
An Egyptian, 502
Donkey Boys of Cairo, 507
Pyramid and Sphinx, 509
Pompeii, Street of Cornelius Rufus, 517
Climbing Mt. Vesuvius, 528
Colosseum of Rome, 537
John H. Eager, 555
Baptist Chapel at Pellice, Italy, 559
Leaning Tower of Pisa, 565
CHAPTER I.
OFF FOR NEW YORK.
Preparations—A Prayer and a Benediction—An Impatient Horse and a
Run for Eternity—Strange Sceptre and Despotic Sway—Beauty in White
Robes—Approaching the Metropolis—Business Heart of the New World—A
Bright Face and a Cordial Greeting—An Hour with the President—More
for a Shilling and Less for a Pound—A Stranger Dies in the Author’s
Arms—Namesake—Prospects of Becoming a Great Man—A Confused College
Student—The Hour of Departure—Native Land.
PREPARATIONS for the trip were completed when the week ended. Sunday,
with its sweet privileges and solemn services, came and went. Mother
and I knelt and prayed together. Rising to our feet, she looked up
through her tears and smilingly said, “Son, the Lord has given me
strength to bear the separation. ‘Go, and ‘God be with you till we meet
again.’”
Monday morning, as the hands on the dial plate point to seven, Johnson
and I seat ourselves in a carriage which is drawn by a horse whose
path is steel, whose heart is fire, and whose speed is lightning. This
impatient steed stands champing his bit, and when the word is given
he starts on his long journey. At one bound he leaps the majestic
river, and on, on he rushes as if he fears eternity will come before
he reaches his journey’s end. After traveling only a few hours, we run
into a blinding snow-storm which reminds us that Winter still wields
his icy sceptre, and rules with despotic sway. This storm continues for
hours; in truth, it lasts until apparently the whole earth is wrapped
in a mantle of white, and until the majestic mountains of Pennsylvania
seem to rise up in their virgin purity to kiss the vaulted sky.
Washington, Baltimore, and Philadelphia, as seen in their white robes,
are more beautiful than ever. Winter’s frosty breath has not chilled
their blood. They are filled with energy and throbbing with life. From
Philadelphia to New York, there is almost one continuous string of cars
on each track. Along here our fiery steed sometimes runs sixty miles an
hour.
Long before we reach the metropolis, the shadows of the sombre evening
have shut out the light of day. As we enter this great city, it looks
as if a thousand times ten thousand lamps are all trimmed and burning.
New York is a marvelous city.
As much time as I have spent here, I never cease to wonder at it. Who
could walk these streets without wondering at the miles of granite
buildings, all joining each other and towering up from seven to twelve
and fourteen stories high; at the broad sidewalks crowded from six
o’clock in the morning until ten at night with one ceaseless stream of
humanity; at the people rushing along at a breakneck speed, as if they
were going to great fires in different parts of the city.
Notwithstanding the double-tracked elevated railway and the
double-tracked horse-cars, New York can not furnish transportation
for the people. She will, I think, soon be compelled to arrange for
an underground railway—this is a necessity. New York is the business
heart of the New World. Every American loves it. It is his pride at
home, his boast abroad.
At Temple Court I receive my mail, and meet my friend, Dr. H. L.
Morehouse, corresponding secretary of the Baptist Home Missionary
Society. As usual, his face is bright and his greeting cordial. He
is planning great things for God, and expecting great things of God.
Few men have done more to honor God and build up the Baptist cause in
America than Henry L. Morehouse.
A pleasant hour is spent with Dr. Norvin Green, President of the
Western Union Telegraph Company. His reminiscences of European travel
are rehearsed. He says that in London one can buy more for a shilling
and less for a pound than in any other place on earth. President Green
gives me a letter to his European representative, and kindly extends
other courtesies that are duly appreciated.
After attending to banking business and securing our ocean passage, we
decide to run over to New Haven and spend a few days with some special
friends. The double railroad track between New York and New Haven is
constantly in use. When about half way between the two cities, our
engineer spies a handsomely dressed gentleman walking on the other
track, and going in the same direction that we are going. A train is
coming facing the gentleman. Unconscious of the presence of more than
one train, he steps from one track to the other, just in front of our
engine. Seeing the danger, both engineers try to stop their trains,
but do not succeed. Both blow their whistles at the same time, but the
walker, thinking all the noise is made by one train, pays no attention.
Crash! Our engine strikes the man, and throws him twenty feet from the
track. The trains stop. The passengers gather around the unfortunate
man. The blood is oozing from his ears and nostrils. I take his head
on my shoulder and raise him up to get air. He struggles—gasps for
breath—and all is over. A letter in his pocket indicates his name and
residence.
A carriage is waiting for us at New Haven. On reaching there, we are
driven at once to the happy home of Mr. W. G. Shepard, who forthwith
presents me to Master Walter Whittle Shepard. This important character
is only twelve months old, but is full of life and promise. If he
combines the sweet spirit and graceful manners of his mother with the
strong character and bright intellect of his father, I believe he will
make a great and useful man notwithstanding the fact that he bears the
author’s name.
New Haven, with her one hundred thousand souls and great manufacturing
interests, with her parks and colleges, with her broad streets and
lordly elms, is one of the prettiest cities on the American continent.
When we retired last night, the snow was falling thick and fast; but we
awoke this morning to find that God had snatched a beautiful Sabbath
day from the bosom of the storm.
Mark Twain is in New Haven. In the course of a lecture delivered here,
he said: “A certain college student got the words theological and
zoological confused—he did not know one from the other. In talking to
a friend, this collegian said: ‘There are a great many donkeys in the
Theological Garden.’”
My stay in New Haven has been as pleasant as a midsummer dream, and
seemingly as short as a widower’s courtship. But we must now return to
New York. In less than three hours we will leave by the State Line, on
“The State of Indiana,” for Glasgow, Scotland. And now that the time of
my departure has come, I find myself breathing a prayer to God, asking
that He will direct my course; that He will guide my footsteps; that in
all my wanderings He will keep me from danger and death; that He will
finally bring me back in health and safety to the land of my birth, to
the friends of my childhood, to those whom I love and who are dearer to
me than life itself. And so may it be. More heartily than ever before,
I can say:
“My native country! thee,
Land of the noble free,
Thy name I love:
I love thy rocks and rills,
Thy woods and templed hills;
My heart with rapture thrills
Like that above.”