There is a detached section of the park known as the Pacific Coast Area.
It is a narrow strip of land that borders the ocean for 50 miles—a
scenic coastline of unusual interest. The Olympic Highway (US. 101 and
Wash. 9) runs through the southern 12 miles of it, but the rest is
roadless except for the road to the village of La Push.
The shore is broken by many rocky points separating sandy beaches.
Numerous needle rocks and small islands, having survived the abrasion of
the encroaching sea, rise offshore.
In places where ocean waves have worn back the land there are rocky
platforms that are under shallow water when the tide is in and uncovered
when the tide is out. Myriads of animals may be seen among slippery sea
plants, under rocks, and in pools left behind when the water recedes.
This is a between-the-tides museum, with mussels and barnacles in dense
communities holding to rocks near shore, purple shore crabs scurrying
for shelter under rocks, ochre and purple starfish (blondes and
brunettes of the same species), and numerous limpets clinging tightly to
rocks farther from shore. Colorful hydroids, brilliant nudibranchs,
chitons, sea urchins, and anemones in pools also thrive where the shore
is rocky and protected from strong waves.
Other creatures prefer the sandy beaches. On a weekend in clam season,
when the tide is low, the miles-long Kalaloch Beach becomes pock-marked
with holes and bumpy with piles from clam diggers’ “guns.” A clam “gun”
is a spade with a long, narrow blade set nearly at right angle with the
handle. Each year, seasons and limits for razor clams are prescribed by
the Washington State Department of Fisheries. The season, which runs
from spring to autumn, generally coincides with the most favorable tides
and surf for clam digging.
Quileute and Quinault Indians dip silver smelt out of the surf with
nets. These small fish ride in on the surf to spawn in the sand,
especially during the highest spring tides. Anyone may engage in this
fishing sport, with a hand dip net, under certain restrictions. Current
regulations pertaining to razor clam digging and smelt dipping can
usually be obtained in the immediate area.
Three Indian reservations lie within the ocean strip and a fourth
adjoins it on the south. One of these, the Ozette at the northern end,
is no longer inhabited, but there are still signs of the village site.
An unimposing bit of rock juts into the water here. This is Cape Alava,
which is distinguished by being the western extremity of our country,
exclusive of Alaska and Hawaii.
Numerous birds nest on the offshore islands. Many others make rest stops
during migration, as the strip lies within a major migration flyway.
Birds, including gulls, crows, oystercatchers, and cormorants, are
always present along the shore. Usually several bald eagles may be seen
during a hike along the beach. They build their nests mostly in the tops
of tall snags.
Mammals, too, appear on the beach. Raccoons and skunks take advantage of
low tides to feed on the various and abundant life available then. Deer
frequently come to the beaches, perhaps to escape a cougar, to sun
themselves, or to obtain salt or certain beach plants. Not infrequently
a black bear is seen, and, occasionally, an elk.
Camping on the beach is pleasant during dry weather. There is ample
firewood everywhere and small streams flow out of the forest, providing
fresh water. Some of the streams may be contaminated, however, and the
water should be either boiled or treated chemically if its purity is
doubtful.
There are several trails leading to the beach. Starting at the north,
the most important of these are the following:
INDIAN VILLAGE TRAIL, starting at Lake Ozette and extending 3 miles to
the Ozette village site at the beach, leads through delightful forest
and prairie. Much of the trail is a boardwalk made of split cedar
puncheon.
SAND POINT TRAIL also starts at Lake Ozette and is 3 miles long. The
distance between the Indian Village Trail and this trail is also 3 miles
along the beach. Thus, a triangular 9-mile round trip is possible.
SECOND BEACH TRAIL is about one-half of a mile long.
THIRD BEACH TRAIL is about three-quarters of a mile long. These two
latter trails start from the road near the village of La Push and lead
to attractive, clean, sandy beaches.
[Illustration: GIANTS GRAVEYARD, SOUTH OF LA PUSH, IS COMPOSED OF
REMNANTS OF RESISTANT ROCKS THAT HAVE SURVIVED THE FORCES OF THE
SEA.]
[Illustration: THIRD BEACH, BORDERED WITH DRIFTWOOD, IS ACCESSIBLE
BY TRAIL.]