By GUNNAR O. FAGERLUND

NATURAL HISTORY HANDBOOK SERIES No. 1

WASHINGTON, D. C., 1954 (Revised 1965)

_Administration_

Olympic National Park, established on June 29, 1938, and containing

about 1,400 square miles, is administered by the National Park Service,

U.S. Department of the Interior.

The National Park System, of which this park is a unit, is dedicated to

conserving the scenic, scientific, and historic heritage of the United

States for the benefit and enjoyment of its people.

A superintendent, whose address is 600 East Park Avenue, Port Angeles,

Wash., 98362, is in immediate charge of the park.

_America’s Natural Resources_

Created in 1849, the Department of the Interior—America’s Department of

Natural Resources—is concerned with the management, conservation, and

development of the Nation’s water, wildlife, mineral, forest, and park

and recreational resources. It also has major responsibilities for

Indian and territorial affairs.

As the Nation’s principal conservation agency, the Department works to

assure that nonrenewable resources are developed and used wisely, that

park and recreational resources are conserved, and that renewable

resources make their full contribution to the progress, prosperity, and

security of the United States—now and in the future.

_Contents_

PAGE

THE MOUNTAINS ARE FORMED 2

GLACIATION 5

THE SHAPE OF THE LAND TODAY 5

GLACIERS TODAY 6

CLIMATE AND THE WATER CYCLE 9

THE FORESTS AND WILDFLOWERS 11

Rain Forest 13

Mountain Vegetation 16

HOW TO IDENTIFY SOME COMMON PLANTS 23

Trees 23

Shrubs 27

Nonwoody Plants 28

WILDLIFE 35

You and the Animals 36

Seeing the Mammals 37

Birds 42

Fish 46

Other Animal Life 47

PACIFIC COAST AREA 48

MAN IN OLYMPIC 51

Indians of the Olympic Peninsula 51

Exploration by sea 52

Exploration by land 54

Establishment of the Park 56

SUGGESTED READINGS 57

[Illustration: _Here is truly a living wilderness nurtured by the

ocean! The Olympic Mountains stand first in line against the

moisture-filled Pacific winds. These winds, rising and cooling on

the western slopes, drop 12 to 18 feet of rain and snow on forest

and mountain each year. Two extraordinary conditions result—a

temperate-climate rain forest and an abundance of permanent ice

bodies at comparatively low altitudes. Many rushing streams return

the water from snowfields, glaciers, and forest slopes to the sea. A

complete and endless circuit of water from ocean to land and back to

the ocean may be observed from a single mountain vantage point. One

can hardly fail to notice a water cycle of this magnitude and

completeness or to appreciate its great influence on the Olympic

scene._]

Olympic rocks tell of their having been formed of mud, sand, and lava,

uplifted from the sea; they tell of earth disturbance that alternately

submerged the land beneath the sea and elevated it into mountains. The

rocks and the shape of the land also tell of colder climates, when ice

from the north made almost a glacier island of the Olympic Mountains,

and of mountain valley glaciers which sculptured the mountains during

thousands of years. The rugged beauty of the Olympic high country,

enhanced by scores of mountain lakes, bears testimony to the former

presence of these extensive glaciers.

Only about 11,000 years have passed since the last wave of northern ice

retreated and laid bare Olympic rocks. Since then the moist and gentle

climate has favored the growth of plants and the development of soil.

The present Olympic forests and flowering meadows are products of a

succession of plantlife from the first lichens and mosses that grew on

Olympic rocks. Animals returned when the ice retreated. Plant eaters and

meat eaters, large and small, throve in abundance. When primitive man

came, he found the land and sea kindly. He easily obtained what he

needed for food, clothing, and shelter without depleting the supply.

While most of the Northwest was being explored and settled by the white

man during the 19th century, the bulk of the Olympic Peninsula remained

virtually unknown. Its rugged mountains, dense forests, and isolation

contributed to the delayed advance of modern civilization to this

northwesternmost corner of conterminous United States. The Olympic

Peninsula thus remained one of the last frontiers, and the park retains

genuine wilderness quality, even to its boundaries which descend to sea

level.

In this piece of original America the perceptive eye and mind will find

a functioning model of nature—a model of earth forces, climate, and

life.

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