URUGUAY AND URUGUAYANS
Montevideo, at first sight, had given me so favourable an impression
that I was anxious not to lose an opportunity of seeing more of it.
But I had begun with the Argentine, and in such a country the more you
see the more you want to see. I tore myself away from it with great
regret, conscious that I was leaving much undone. Time had passed all
too quickly. I had now only three weeks left for Brazil, where long
months ought, rather, to be spent. Small as it is, Uruguay is for many
reasons one of the most interesting of the South American republics.
How far could a few days be made to go there? In its general features
the country is not very different from the Argentine Pampas. There
are the same alluvial soil, the same _estancias_, the same system of
agriculture and cattle rearing. For me the principal interest lay
in the Uruguay character. Three visits of one day each furnished me
with an occasion to converse with some of their most distinguished
statesmen, but is this sufficient ground on which to form an opinion
of a race whose superabundant activity is directed towards every
department of knowledge, as of labour, now the first essential in any
civilisation? I do not pretend that it is. Still, I consider that even
a brief investigation, if perfectly disinterested and unprejudiced,
can and should furnish elements of sound information that are not to
be despised. But perhaps I shall be excused if, instead of making
affirmations that are open to challenge, I give myself the pleasure of
dwelling on the splendid qualities of these courageous and modest men
who are engaged in building up a social structure that is worthy of all
our admiration.
Uruguay, once the "Oriental Band" of the Argentine, lies between
that Republic and Brazil, forming thus a buffer State which, in the
event of war between Rio de Janeiro and Buenos Ayres (which the gods
forfend!), would make it somewhat difficult for the two hostile
armies to get at each other. If for this reason alone, I am disposed
to think the constitution of an independent State between the River
Uruguay and the sea a very wise provision. I am aware, however, that
peace between the Argentine, Brazil, and Chile is the accepted maxim
of South American foreign policy; and it is very sound doctrine, the
triple hegemony offering a fairly solid guarantee against usurpation
by one. Notwithstanding its diminutive size, as compared with its
gigantic neighbours, Uruguay appears well fitted morally to fulfil the
conditions of an independent State. There is a marked development of
national spirit among its population, whose most striking feature is a
mental activity that is sometimes carried to excess. Brazil has laid
out immense sums of money in the purchase of _Dreadnoughts_ (not always
perfect), and the Argentine felt, consequently, in duty bound to burden
herself also with some of these sea monsters. Against whom are the
Argentine and Brazil thus arming? They would both find it hard to say,
since they have plenty to do at home without directing their creative
energy in European fashion to the business of destruction, unless
absolutely forced thereto. Let me tell them that it is but vain bravado
that has urged them on the dangerous, downward path of armament. Where
will they stop? When you have a population as large in proportion as
that of the United States, it will be time enough, alas! to claim your
share in the great international concert of extermination. Begin by
giving life, oh, happy folk, who have been robbed by none and who have
nothing to recover!
I have already spoken of the appearance of Montevideo. A broad
bay, commanding the entrance of the Rio de la Plata, magnificently
situated for a commercial port, the Government has not overlooked its
advantages. In 1901 tenders were invited, and a French syndicate was
granted the contract for the construction of the docks. There are
important quarries in all parts of Uruguay, which is more favoured
than the Argentine in this respect; and the builders found all the
stone they needed close to hand. The colossal work is now nearly
ended. In 1909 two of our armoured cruisers, the _Gloire_ and the
_Marseillaise_, visited the port of Montevideo. The comfortable boats
of the Mihanowitch Company, which run daily between Buenos Ayres and
Montevideo, moor alongside the quays. Why the large European vessels
should be forced to remain outside in the roads is a puzzle; the only
explanation seems to be a quarrel between the different governing
bodies, to which, I trust, the Uruguay Government will speedily put an
end. As things are, the building of the docks is but a sorry farce,
and the more regrettable because one of the features of the handsome
harbour is a simplification of the harbour dues, which entails the
least delay on the vessels calling there.[33] M. Sillard, who has been
in charge of the works from the beginning, took us to various places
on the bay; and, in his motor-car, we climbed half-way up the famous
Cerro, so that we might have the pleasure of walking a short distance
over a road now under construction, which was spoilt for us by the
disagreeable _saladeros_.[34] If I may say so without hurting the
feelings of my friends, the Cerro fort is not, I believe, impregnable.
Its demolition has, it is said, been decided upon. If an hotel or
casino were built on its site, the Montevideans would have a pleasant
object for excursion, for from the top of the hill there is a grand
view over the town and estuary to the ocean and the River Uruguay.
The Lieutenant of the city--an American of European education, with
five years spent in the Diplomatic Service at Rome behind him--kindly
offered to do the honours of the town for us. Under the guidance
of M. Daniel Muñoz,[35] who is as well known at Buenos Ayres as at
Montevideo, we saw every part of his domain, from the business quarter
to the luxurious suburban villas, the well-planted public squares, and
large parks that are growing rapidly, to say nothing of a handsome
promenade along the sea-front, and the unpleasant smelling _saladeros_
of some of the environs.
A short halt at the Prefect's private house gave us an opportunity of
judging of the comfort and luxury of the big Montevidean dwellings.
As for the city itself, there is little to remark beyond the curious
contrast offered by the tall, handsome, modern buildings and the
singular little "colonial houses" so popular in Montevideo, which look
as if some sprite had cut them off short at the first story for the fun
of whisking the rest out of sight. As the town of Montevideo can boast,
and must obviously preserve, the aspects of the capital city, these
over-ornamented "half-houses" and the clumps of green trees scattered
everywhere lend it a youthful charm which I hope it will not soon lose.
As a matter of fact, these houses are charming in effect--in the eyes,
at least, of those who do not walk about with their heads too high in
the air--a pose that is not to be recommended. They not only constitute
a very agreeable _façade_, taken all together, but their _patio_ is
so designed as to be admirably adapted to the special needs of the
climate. If I were going to live in Montevideo, it would certainly
be in one of these little houses. They have another virtue also,
since they illustrate the necessity of experiment in building before
one is committed to the settled plan. If the Town Council insists on
constructing houses of several stories in some of the avenues, the
measure may have its justification in the interest of the æsthetic
and the useful. But before they trouble about the effect which their
streets may produce as photographs, the Montevideans will, I hope,
devote attention to comfort. Let the town spread freely, since there
is plenty of space available. Is it not the curse of all our large
European cities to be cramped and confined? New York, between two arms
of the sea, has been obliged to invent its hideous "skyscrapers." One
must encourage expansion to get all the air and light necessary to
health. The population of Montevideo must be nearly a million now.[36]
It has many a fine beach on its coast. A rich vegetation exists in all
parts. Let no childish vanity induce it to attempt too soon to vie
with Europe! Its friends can wish it nothing better.
I have said nothing of the public buildings, because they are
everywhere the same, except, perhaps, in those European countries
where the masses have taken possession of the palaces of their former
masters. To me they were less interesting than their inmates--that is,
the members of the Government. Of the three Presidents who did me the
honour to receive me in the course of my journey, each has now, in
the normal course of events, yielded his place to a successor. Señor
Williman, who left the presidential chair on the 1st of March, had the
keenest possible sense of his responsibility to his country. He was the
son of an Americanised Alsatian, and seems to have imported into his
exercise of authority that valuable quality of well-reasoned idealism
which has made his race one of the most precious constituent parts of
the French nation. It must not be forgotten that an American President
is first and foremost a man of action, exactly the reverse of the chief
of the State in our European democracies; and a turbulent Opposition,
ever ready to rush to extremes, makes the task of government every day
more difficult. Señor Williman gave me the impression of being somewhat
reserved, but the genuinely democratic simplicity of his welcome and
the slow gravity of his speech betokened a man whose convictions would
be deliberate but profound. We touched on the political questions now
engrossing Europe, and I found he had long been familiar with all the
problems that are keeping us so busy.
It is not easy for me to give a personal opinion about the
parliamentary world. The Senate organised a friendly reception in my
honour at which we exchanged cordial toasts. But what can a Frenchman
do when he knows not a word of Spanish, unless his Spanish hosts
can speak French? There were only two or three members of Senate or
Chamber with whom I could talk. Smiles and gestures of good-will, as
we clinked our glasses of champagne, were all that was left to us. The
eyes asked questions that could be but imperfectly answered. Amongst
graver politicians were many young men eager for reforms. One of the
"youngsters"--in this fortunate land even the senators are scarcely
out of their teens--observed to me, with gently emphasised irony, that
Uruguay had travelled farther along the road marked out by the French
Revolution than our own present Republic.
"The pain of death has been abolished in Uruguay. It has been retained
by the Argentine and...."
"And in France, I acknowledge. We are, moreover, confronted with a
strong retrogressive movement in favour of the right of society to take
life."
"We have divorce by mutual consent. The Argentine has nothing even
approaching it. The question of divorce has been raised there. The
influence of the clergy prevented all discussion. As for the French
Republic...."
"We have still retained the traditional system," I confess.
"And then our code grants the same rights to the illegitimate child,
when recognised, as to those born in wedlock--this is common equity."
"I do not deny it. But the prejudice that exists in our public mind on
this subject appears to me so deeply rooted that, without venturing
on risky predictions, I think we shall not obtain the solution of
the problem that your democracy has accepted without encountering the
keenest resistance."
None will be surprised to hear that the conversation drifted quickly
towards the Uruguay revolutions. Here the thread of our talk was
picked up by a young journalist--a Deputy--who has spent a long time
in Paris and is generally considered to be a coming man. In witty and
picturesque language, he explained that Uruguay's revolutions had no
more importance than a fit of hysterics. One is Red; another is White.
A tie or a bit of stuff sewn on the hat serves as a badge.[37] The
cradle supplies the bit of stuff; in a moment of popular excitement it
is adopted, and becomes at once a point of honour. Then some little
thing happens which, for one reason or another, leads to a heated
discussion, and immediately there follows a general conflagration.
The only fixed idea left in you is that you are a Red and the Whites
must be exterminated, or _vice versa_, according to the camp in which
you may be enrolled. There is nothing for it, then, but to let the
effervescence escape.
But when I remarked that the life of a man counted for nothing when
Uruguayan effervescence was escaping, the ready assent they gave me
showed that on this point no discussion was possible.
"But I understood you had abolished the death sentence."
"It is legally abolished, but illegally...."
"Just so. Modern law, but ancient--very ancient--practice."
As may have been noticed, there is a general tendency towards
comparisons--I ought, perhaps, rather to call it jealousy--of the
relative progress in Argentine and Uruguay. The "Oriental Band" is, in
Buenos Ayres, talked of with affectionate good nature, as if it were a
sulky member of the family. You cannot praise Uruguay without winning
universal approval, accompanied by a smiling reserve that seems to say,
"The Orientals are worthy to be Argentinos." At Montevideo you are more
likely to be asked frankly which country you consider foremost; and if
you reply that you are quite incompetent to judge, be sure that your
answer will be interpreted according to the inclination of the party
interested. This often happened to me--annoyingly enough. Every nation
has its strong and weak points, which must be judged according to the
form they take and the times in which we are moving. I certainly did
not go to the South Americans for a classification of the different
States of Europe. Why should I have been expected to draw up a scale
of civilisation for them? The Argentine, Uruguay, and Brazil are,
each in their way, grand social structures, having their defects,
like the countries of Europe. I am telling what I saw, leaving to all
the liberty of replying that I was mistaken in what I saw. That is
sufficient. But one of the best ways of moving ahead of one's fellows
is to acquire the capacity of self-judgment and self-reformation.
Amongst so many kindly hosts I may pick out the youthful Minister of
Foreign Affairs, Señor Emilio Barbatoux, whose polished Parisianism
made him the mark for all the questions dictated by my ignorance.
With unwearying courtesy the statesman, who is perfectly conversant
with the French point of view, succeeded in adapting himself to my
particular line of vision, and greatly facilitated the too superficial
examination I was making by the clearness of his information.
I was invited to a very French dinner at the Uruguay Club, where I
found the greatest comfort combined with Franco-American luxury;
and I was able to study at my ease the pure Latinity of the Uruguay
politician. If I had foreseen these "Travel Notes" I should have jotted
down on paper some of the speeches to which I listened on my travels,
when French culture was eulogised in the highest terms by the natives
of these countries, whose future is of such interest to us. It was
not till I had left it all behind me that I became conscious of the
omission. I can only say that in the Uruguay Club, and again in Mme.
Sillard's charming home, I found France again, as also in the _salons_
of the French Minister at Montevideo.[38]
There was something of France, too, in the editorial offices of _La
Razon_ and of _El Dia_--for, of course, an old journalist could not
resist the temptation of calling at a newspaper office.[39] Having
gone there intending to interview the editor in my own way, the tables
were turned on me and a volley of questions fired off at me. Next
morning there appeared the very interview I had been avoiding, and
all my "Ah's!" and "Oh's!" were cunningly interpreted to make up a
tale. Consequently, all I can report of Uruguay journalism is that my
_confrères_ of Montevideo excel in the art of the Abbé de l'Epée, who
managed to make the dumb talk. I trust this remark will be taken as
praise.
The few occasions I had for talking with my _confrères_ have left a
very pleasant recollection. I can truthfully proclaim them all Latins
of the purest water--Latins by their vivacity, by the warmth of their
temperament, by the trend of their mind towards general truths, by
every sign of their predilection for wrestling with ideas. In this
respect it was impossible to think them otherwise than youthful and
delightful. The estimable Renan, who was indulgence itself, gently
reproached me once with a lack of leniency. Alas! Time, the mother of
Experience, brings to us all in the end the faculty of appreciation
in the sense in which the philosopher meant it, and he himself never
consented to sacrifice one of his early opinions unless he could at
least preserve its terminology.
Still, it is a serious question, not only which is the better,
but which has wrought the more good in the world--youth, with its
presumptuous eagerness, or weary wisdom.
Now, is it possible to deduce any definite ideas of the special
features of the people of Uruguay from these faithfully reported but
necessarily diffuse notes, culled in chance encounters? If I had not
just come from the Argentine I should have plenty of material. But
as it is, consider, pray, that I have only to modify some epithets
in consideration of the smaller proportions of the subject and all I
might tell you of the aspect of town or country, as also of the mind
and character of its inhabitants, would, to all intents and purposes,
sound in your ears like a twice-told tale.[40] Then, you will say,
the Argentine and Uruguay are practically one and the same. That I
cannot admit. As well might one confound Marseillais and Brestois, who,
however, are of the same country. I prefer not to pronounce an opinion
that might foment the never-slumbering rivalry that exists between the
two Hispano-American peoples of La Plata. But as the common-sense of
Governments and peoples generally prevails over public excitement, and
as the paramount interest of both countries is the same in economic
matters as well as in the more or less clearly defined field of
American politics, there is, I think, no reason to fear that either can
take offence at an opinion inspired by equal respect for both parties.
What more shall I say? A country of 1,400,000 inhabitants; a town
of 400,000 souls. If Buenos Ayres is the second Latin city in the
world, Montevideo follows--at some little distance, perhaps, but with
a creditable total. The soil is no less well worked, cattle-rearing
is equally successful, while the _saladeros_ and large factories,
like those of the Liebig Company at Fray Bentos, provide a market as
good as the freezing-machines for Buenos Ayres. The political and
social institutions are much alike, both inspired by the same regard
for equality as proclaimed by the French Revolution, and permeated by
our own doctrines of justice and liberty. And if the Uruguayans have
ventured to carry purely logical solutions farther than we have done,
the reason is probably that the democratic Governments of these new
countries have not had to contend with the same atavistic resistance
that must be reckoned with in older lands, where men's minds have
been moulded by long history. A cheap criticism might here be made by
considering only such and such an aspect of these young communities.
We lay great stress on their revolutions, and whilst it is to be hoped
that violence will before long be laid aside, I have unreservedly
set down all I learned about these movements. Nevertheless, we must
admit that Uruguay is not without a show of reason when she replies by
throwing up at us the floods of blood that we have shed in the course
of our civil wars, and that down to our most recent history. Let the
sinless throw the first stone.
The ardent nationalism of Uruguay has nothing to fear from that of
the Argentine. There are advantages and disadvantages in importing
too great sensitiveness into every question. As a contribution to the
International Exhibition in honour of the Argentine centenary, Uruguay
published a very handsome volume, in which there was set forth in
pictures and figures the entire history of their national development,
the text being given in French and Spanish. The title was _Uruguay
Through One Century_. The evolution of the Oriental Republic is therein
set forth. Of course, the weak spot of such works is that they gloss
over the deficiencies; and thus, though hiding nothing, there is always
the risk of discomfiture when they are subjected to the brilliant
light.
It remains none the less true that the economic growth of Uruguay is in
no whit inferior to that of the Argentine in these last few years, and
the promise of the future justifies the highest hopes. It is possible
that on either side of the estuary the heat of political and social
verbiage is not always in accordance with cold reality. This is a
criticism that might be made of any land, and I could apply it easily
to those I know best.
When all defects and excellences are taken into account, I should
say the Uruguayan is distinguished from the Argentino by his
impulsive idealism. Less sober-minded and less attached to novelty
of doctrine--these are the two points that struck me first in his
character. For this very reason he is more prone to argue about
theories, and more expansive about himself and others. It may be that
French is less current at Montevideo than at Buenos Ayres, though it
seemed to me that, intellectually, French influence, if less profound,
is more patent on the surface. The mixture of European races is about
the same in the two countries. How is it that the first impression is
one of greater Latinity?--Latinity of feeling, which lends a charm
to social relations; Latinity of thought and action, with all the
advantages of spontaneity, all the defects of method, its alternations
of enthusiasm and hesitation in fulfilling its plans. The Latin
conceived and created this modern civilisation, which the Northerner
has appropriated to his own solid and empiric structures; but he has
only succeeded in giving them their present universal application by
renewed contact with the ideal in which the descendant of the Roman
conquest too readily found consolation for his own desultory practice.
South American Latinity has allowed itself to be left far behind by
the great Anglo-Saxon Republic of the North, just as European Latinity
has suffered its fiercest attacks from those who were designated the
"Barbarians" by ancient Rome. Yet how great would be the darkness
if the light of Latinity, as it survives even in its enemies, were
suddenly to go out! If man could always measure the obstacle, he
would frequently lack courage for the leap. It was the force of Latin
impetus that sent modern humanity forth to besiege the fortresses of
oppression, and it is the task of the experimental method to convert
them by patience and perseverance into asylums of liberty; we know that
to accomplish the miracle it will be necessary for the citizen to be
made anew by the exercise of self-control and a primitive respect for
the liberty of his neighbour. Considering all the feats that have been
accomplished by the Latin races, I see nothing before them but this
last and crowning marvel to complete their amazing history.
In Uruguay the first indication of this new order of things will be
the suppression of revolution. Before this comes to pass there will
be great changes on both sides of the ocean, in the reflex action of
humanity and, in a less degree, in its reasoning consciousness. Here is
an educational work which offers a vast field for future effort.
The Government of Uruguay is well aware that the greatest difficulty
in the way of self-government is to establish the relation between
principle and practice. It seeks, therefore, to implant in the young
those broad general principles by which our private and public life
must be regulated.[41] I lacked time to visit the schools, which are
the most unmistakable thermometer of any social structure. A glance
at the catalogue sent by the Primary Schools Council to the Third
Congress of School Hygiene, held in Paris, August 2 to 7, 1910, will
give us some light on the subject. This is not the place in which to
describe the admirable organisation of obligatory primary teaching in
Uruguay and the remarkable development of the primary schools under
Señor Williman's presidency. The syllabus for a period of school life
from the sixth to the fourteenth years is, I think, most interesting.
In all the schools which are ranked as of first, second, or third
degree, and in the country schools, the characteristic of the course
is the revival of the object-lesson, still too often sacrificed in our
European schools to the subjective teaching of olden days. In the very
first year's work I note that the following subjects are included (to
be carried farther in later years): geometry, notions of locality,
the human body, animals, plants, minerals, weights and colour,
demonstration lessons, etc.
It is obvious that the first notions of such matters must, if they are
to reach the minds of infants of six years, be of the most rudimentary
character. But is not this the right age at which to begin to give
a bias to the child's mind? In successive years it will be taught
to observe and make simple experiments, so that it is progressively
prepared for contact with the world in which it will be called to live,
in a way that has little in common with the absorption of general
rules which, until very recently, constituted the bulk of what we
call education. The very fact that they have evolved this system of
education, and that they have put their theories into practice, proves
that the Latins of Uruguay are on the right road to succeed in the
realisation of their hopes. For if they claim to impart to budding
intelligence a solid base of observation and experience, or, in other
words, to teach them the sensations that different phenomena give to
us, and offer such explanations as we can supply, they will surely
not be checked by the higher generalisations which are the natural
outcome of scientific study and also its crown. Thus, in the catalogue
of the school libraries for the use of pupils and professors I find
such French works as these: Le Bon--_Psychologie de l'Éducation_,
_L'Évolution de la matière_; Le Dantec--_Les Influences Ancestrales_,
_De l'homme à la Science_; Henri Poincaré--_La Valeur de la Science_,
_La Science et l'Hypothèse_. If we are not careful these "savages" will
outstrip the "civilised." I shall make no bold predictions. There is,
as I hinted just now, so wide a margin between understanding and the
act that should result from it that the magnificent progress made in
words is out of proportion to the slow evolution of action. It remains
for our Uruguayan friends, as for their European judges, to surprise
the world by a new history of human society.
Whatever this history may hold in store for us, I am glad to think
that our Latin republics of South America--and Uruguay amongst
the first--will offer the spectacle of a splendid effort of high
achievement. I will not seek to hide the great pleasure it gives me
to record the fact, because, in the first place, the sight of man
labouring to raise himself is always suggestive; and, secondly, because
for a critical mind there is no better complement than the need of
hope.
FOOTNOTES:
[33] The docks were built by the State alone without the help of a
loan. In 1906 the tonnage of vessels entered and cleared in the port
was fourteen millions.
[34] Meat drying and salting is the principal industry of the
country. In the _saladero_ the animal is killed and cut up, and the
flesh dried and salted by a process analogous to that used with cod.
Uruguay possesses thirty of these _saladeros_ (as against fifty in the
Argentine and Brazil), with Brazil and Cuba for its chief markets.
This article of food is now much esteemed in both countries, though
formerly it was reserved for slaves. At Fray Bentos there are the large
establishments of Liebig that must be mentioned to complete the list.
[35] Señor Daniel Muñoz is now Minister of Uruguay at Buenos Ayres.
[36] Of these, 100,000 are foreigners.
[37] The Reds are the advanced party, the Whites the conservative. It
was from the Reds that Garibaldi borrowed the famous red shirt that he
brought back from Montevideo.
[38] I should have liked to thank M. and Mme. Carteron for their
kindness. Alas! Mme. Carteron's sudden death has left a blank in her
home.
[39] The papers are distributed in the streets of Montevideo by
children on horseback. They fling the sheets skilfully into the
doorways, where they frequently remain, respected by all passers-by.
[40] There is only one point that it is only just to repeat: it is
that the women of Uruguay are very beautiful. More or less so than the
Argentinos? In the Pan-American Congress the ladies of Buenos Ayres
gave the palm to a celebrated beauty of Montevideo, in an outburst
of hospitable chivalry. I would not have the bad taste to say a word
either way. The two banks of La Plata appear to me equally propitious
for the development of feminine æsthetics, and for the foreigner who
loves art the handsomest model is ever that which is before his eyes.
[41] On the initiative of Señor Claude Williman, the late President,
360 country schools have been opened in Uruguay, so that the total
number of primary public schools supported by the State reaches at the
end of 1910, 1000, and gives us a ratio of one public school per 1095
of the population.