CHAPTER XI.

AMATEUR ESQUIMAUX.

The prosecution of our search had been largely dependent upon our

imitation of the life of the Esquimaux, and I should omit an important

chapter in "Arcticology" if I did not leave on record the story of our

exploits as amateur Esquimaux in subsisting upon the resources of the

country through which our little exploring party passed, going and

coming, in pursuit of its chief object. The seal was our beef and the

walrus our mutton in this long journey.

Seal-hunting varies with the time of the year and the nature of the

ice, for the seals are seldom killed except upon or through the ice. In

the warm, still days of spring they come up through their blow-holes in

the ice and enjoy a roll in the snow or a quiet nap in the sun. Then

they are killed with comparative case. The hunter gets as close as

possible upon the smooth ice without alarming his prey, the distance

varying from four hundred to one hundred yards. He then lies down, or,

more correctly speaking, reclines upon a small piece of bear-skin,

which, as he moves, is dragged along and kept under him as protection

against the cold and wet. His weight rests chiefly on his left hip, the

knee bent and the leg drawn up beneath him upon the bear-skin mat. As

long as the seal is looking toward him the hunter keeps perfectly

still, or raising his head soon drops it upon his shoulder, uttering a

noise similar to that produced by a seal blowing.

When the seal is satisfied, from a careful inspection, that no danger

threatens, its head drops down upon the ice and it indulges in a few

winks, but suddenly rises and gazes around if it hears the least noise

or sees the least motion anywhere. The hunter takes advantage of the

nap to hitch himself along by means of his right foot and left hand,

preserving his recumbent position all the time, and if detected by the

seal either stops suddenly and blows, or flops around like a seal

enjoying a sun bath, as his experience suggests. In this way he can

usually approach near enough to shoot his prey with a rifle, or strike

it with a seal spear or oo-nar. Often, however, just as he is about to

shoot or spear his game, it slips suddenly into the sea through its

hole, upon the very verge of which it rests, seldom venturing further

than a foot or two from its safe retreat. If they could only rest

contented with a fair shot, the Inuits would probably secure more game

than they now do, for the most of those I have seen them lose in this

way went down after the hunter had approached within easy range--say

twelve or fifteen yards. They are so anxious, however, to make a sure

thing of it that they often try to get too near. I have frequently

timed an Inuit as he started for a seal on the ice, and found it takes

about an hour from the time he starts in pursuit until the shot is

fired. It is amusing to watch the countenance of the seal through a

spy-glass. They have such an intelligent and human look that you can

almost imagine what they are thinking. For instance, you will see one

start up suddenly and look at the hunter, who by that time is perfectly

still, with an intense scrutiny that seems to say, "I declare I was

almost sure I saw that move that time, but I must have been mistaken."

Then, with a drowsy look, almost a yawn, down goes his head, and the

hunter begins to hitch himself along again very cautiously. Suddenly up

goes the seal's head so quickly that the hunter hasn't time to subside

as before, but begins to roll about, blow off steam, and lift its feet

around like a seal flapping its tail, and at a little distance it is

really difficult to tell which is the seal and which the man. Then you

imagine a smile on the face of the seal, as though he was saying to

himself, "I caught him that time. What a fool I was to be frightened,

though. I thought it was a man, and it's only an ookjook."

When the hunter at last reaches the point at which he considers it safe

to risk a shot, you hear the report of his gun and see him immediately

spring to his feet and rush for his prey. If his bullet strikes the

head or neck of the animal it rarely gets away, though sometimes even

then it slips out of reach, so close do they keep to their holes. If it

is hit anywhere else it almost invariably escapes the hunter, though it

may not escape death. Often the hunter reaches the hole in time to

seize his prey by the hind flipper just as it is passing down into the

water. I remember standing and gazing mournfully down into a hole one

day through which a seal that I had shot had just escaped, though his

blood tinged the water and edges of the ice, and while I was lamenting

my ill-luck I heard a splash behind me and turned in time to see the

seal come up through another hole. He looked awfully sick, and didn't

see me until I had him by the flipper, sprawling on his back, at a safe

distance from the hole. This was quite good luck for me, for such an

opportunity rarely occurs, though I have occasionally known Toolooah to

recover a lost one in the same way.

When struck with a spear they seldom escape, for the line is fastened

to the side of the spear-head, which detaches itself from the staff and

holds in the flesh like a harpoon. Sometimes, however, the seal will

slip away after the spear is thrown, and, instead of striking him, it

strikes the ice where he had been lying. This is very aggravating after

the cold and tedious labor of working up upon it has been accomplished;

but the Esquimau bears his misfortune with equanimity. It is seldom

that he says more than "ma-muk'-poo now" (no good), or "mar-me an'-ner"

(which means "angry," or is an expression used when one is angry). He

gathers up his weapons, sits down and lights his pipe, and after a

recuperative smoke moves on in search of another opportunity to go

through the same process.

Sometimes he is fortunate enough to find a seal absolutely asleep upon

the ice, and then he can walk right up alongside of him and put the

rifle barrel to his ear before firing. In some parts of the Arctic, as

at Iwillik (Repulse Bay), there is a species called "wandering seal,"

which in the spring are known to come upon the ice in great numbers,

usually through a huge crack, and move quite a distance from the open

water. This affords the natives a grand opportunity, and the entire

village--men, women and children--repair to the spot, and by getting

between the seals and the water, cut off their escape, so that they

fall an easy prey to the clubs with which they are slaughtered by the

men. In this way they sometimes kill as many as seventy-five or a

hundred in a single day. But the haunts of the "wandering seal" are not

found everywhere; they are favored localities. It is generally pretty

hard work to kill a seal.

During the winter months the seals do not come out upon the ice, and

are then hunted usually with dogs that are trained for the purpose. The

hunter, equipped with his spear-shaft in his hand, and his line, with

the barbed spear-head attached, thrown over his shoulder, starts out,

leading his dog, whose harness is on and the trace wound several times

around his neck, so that but a yard or two is left to trail along the

snow. When they reach the wide stretch of smooth ice that usually lines

the shore in these regions, the dog is allowed to work to windward, and

when his sensitive nostrils are saluted with the scent of a seal he

indicates the fact by the excited manner in which he endeavors to reach

the spot from which the odor emanates. The hunter restrains the dog's

ardor, but follows his guidance until the spot is found at which the

seal's blow-hole is situated. Often it is entirely covered with snow,

but sometimes a small hole about an inch in diameter is seen. The

blow-hole is a spot to which the seal resorts to get an occasional puff

of fresh air, and here the hunter awaits him in order to secure him for

the larder. When first found, the hunter merely marks the spot for a

future visit by building around it a wall of snow blocks to cut off the

wind, and making a seat of similar material upon which to rest while

waiting for the blow. This is the tedious proceeding in the life of an

Esquimau, or at least would be for a civilized person so situated.

Sometimes the seal comes up within half an hour or an hour, but often

the hunter stands or sits by the hole all night long, and sometimes for

a day or two. I have heard of instances in which they sat for two days

and a half waiting for the seal to put in an appearance. In fact, Papa

told me that he once sat for three days at one seal hole, and then it

did not come up. During all this time the hunter must keep perfectly

still--that is, he must not walk around or move his feet off the ice.

He can move his body to keep up a circulation of the blood, or move his

feet inside his stockings if they are sufficiently loose to allow of

such motion, but no noise must occur which would alarm the game if in

the vicinity of the hunter.

Some funny incidents occur at these prolonged sittings. I remember one

experienced old seal-hunter who told me that when he was a young man he

was once out all night watching a blow-hole and got very sleepy--so

sleepy, indeed, that he could not keep his eyes open. After vainly

endeavoring to arouse himself, he finally succumbed, and, falling

asleep, tumbled over backward and wandered in the land of dreams.

Suddenly awakening he saw what he supposed to be a man with hostile

intentions standing and looking down upon him through the dim

starlight. Every time he moved in the least, in order to get up, the

strange man moved in a threatening sort of way, and he had to lie still

again. At last, after getting thoroughly awakened, he discovered what

he had taken for an enemy, and had caused him such alarm, was only his

own leg sticking up in the air and resting against the snow-block seat

from which he had tumbled when he fell asleep. Another hunter was

overcome by sleep at a seal hole, and awakened by the consciousness of

danger, saw a great white bear watching the hole, which in his

sleepiness he had neglected. The hunter had fallen behind his snow seat

in such a way as to be concealed from the bear, which had been

attracted by the scent of the seal and arrived just at the moment when

the young man awoke. To jump to his feet and fly from the vicinity of

danger was, with the frightened Esquimau, the work of a minute, and so

startled the bear that it also made off in the opposite direction as

fast as feet would carry it.

When the seal comes up to breathe it stays about ten minutes, which

gives the hunter plenty of time to get his spear and line ready. He

then must take accurate aim and make a vigorous thrust through the

little hole, withdrawing the spear quickly and holding the line

tightly, so as to exhaust the game as much as possible before the line

is all run out. The end is wound tightly around his right arm, and he

sits down, bracing himself to resist the struggles of the animal to

free itself. It usually makes three desperate efforts to escape, and

then the hunter begins to haul in on his line, and, breaking away the

snow around the hole, to admit of the passage of the body, lands his

prey on the ice.

The next operation at this stage of the proceedings is to make a slit

in the stomach of the sometimes still breathing animal, and to cut off

some of the warm liver (ting'-yer), with a slice or two of blubber

(oks-zook), wherewith the hunter regales himself with a hearty

luncheon. Then the entrails are drawn out and passed through the

fingers of the left hand to remove the contents, and are afterward

braided and returned to the cavity of the stomach, and the slit drawn

together and pinned with a little ivory pin (too-bit-tow'-yer) made for

the purpose. The dog is allowed to lick the blood from the snow, but

gets no more for his share unless an opportunity occurs to help himself

when his master's back is turned. The trace is then attached to the

nose of the dead seal, which is thus dragged into camp by the faithful

dog, the hunter walking alongside urging the dog by his voice, and

occasionally assisting him over a drift or amid hummocky ice.

The seal in the early spring builds a habitation in the snow over and

around the hole through which it breathes, and here its young are born

and live until old enough to venture into the water. This house is

called an oglow, and is constructed very much like an Esquimau igloo in

shape, though it is more irregular and has ramifications that extend to

neighboring holes. These oglows are found with the assistance of dogs,

as previously described, or by prodding with a seal spear the hillocks

of snow that look like seals' houses. When a hunter finds an oglow

during the season that the young seals are living in them, he

immediately breaks in the roof with his heel in search of the little

one, which usually remains very quiet even when the hunter looks down

and pokes his head through the broken roof. The young seal is then

easily killed with the spear and dragged out on the ice, and the hunter

waits for the mother, which is never absent a long time from its baby.

The young seal is generally cut open as soon as killed, and its little

stomach examined for milk, which is esteemed a great luxury by the

Esquimaux. When young, the seal is covered with long, white hair, very

much like coarse wool. This skin was at one time very much used in

making clothing, but lately has not been much in vogue among the

natives, though occasionally coats and trousers of this material may

still be seen. The whalers esteem it highly as an adjunct to woollen

clothing, as being sufficiently warm for those who are living on

shipboard, yet not so warm as reindeer clothing, which becomes

oppressive in high temperature.

The older seals have short, smooth hair, of a yellowish-gray color,

with large black spots on the back, which become smaller and less

frequent on the sides, and disappear entirely before reaching the

belly. The finest quality of seal-skin in the eastern North American

waters, which are devoid of fur seal, is that of the kos-se-gear, or

fresh-water seal, which is found at or near the mouths of nearly all

rivers emptying into the sea. This species of seal is marked very

much like the common seal (net-chuk), except that the spots are of a

more positive and a glossier black, while the body color is whiter,

making a more decided contrast. The hair is also of a much finer

texture, and is as soft as the finest quality of velvet. These are

only killed in the early summer, and their skins are extensively used

for summer clothing by those Esquimaux who have not come much in contact

with the whalers. When they have been in communication with the ships,

they are usually, during the summer months, clad in cast-off clothing

of the sailors--that is, the men are. And funny enough they look, with

the curious methods they have of wearing civilized costumes. They always

choose a shirt for the exterior garment, and wear it with the tail

outside. The women seldom are seen with any civilized clothing, the

only exception being, probably, a few of the natives of Cumberland Sound

and Akkolead, near North Bay. The finest quality of kossegear skins I

have seen were killed in Hudson's Strait. They are much superior in

texture and color to those of the tributaries to Hudson's Bay. The next

skin in quality is that of the ki-od-del-lik, or "jumping" seal, or, as

it is sometimes called, "spotted" seal. This is very similar in color

and texture to the fresh-water seal, except that the black in the back

and sides is in great splotches that are odd, but very pretty in effect.

Kioddelliks are seen in great numbers in Hudson's Bay and Strait, but

are not often killed, as they generally keep pretty well out from shore.

They are often seen by the whalers, playing like a school of porpoises,

whose actions they simulate somewhat, except that they make a clean

breach from the water every time they jump.

The nets-che-wuk, "bladder-nosed" seal, has a skin which is a grade or

two superior to the netchuk, and is much larger. It, however, lacks the

fineness and gloss of the kossegear and kioddellik.

The largest of the seal species is the ookjook. Its skin is thick and

coarse, with coarse, short hair. It is not used in the manufacture of

clothing, except for the soles of rum-nigs (boots). It is, however,

employed to make walrus and seal lines, lashings for their sleds, and

traces for dog harness. It is as much used for this purpose as is the

skin of the walrus, which it much resembles. In making lines from

ookjook or walrus skin, a piece is cut from the neck or body by making

cross sections--that is, without slitting it down the belly, the piece

for the line being removed from the body in a broad band. The blubber

is then cut from the fleshy side, and the skin is soaked for a short

time in hot water, after which the hair is readily removed with an

ood-loo, the semicircular knife that is the one constant and only tool

of the Esquimau woman. A line is then made by cutting this piece of skin

into one continuous strip, half an inch wide, by following around and

around the band. The line is then about twenty-five yards long, and

while still green is stretched between two large rocks, where it is

submitted to the greatest tension that the limited mechanical

appliances of these savages can supply. While so situated the line is

carefully trimmed with a sharp knife to remove all fatty particles, and

to partially round off the sharp edges.

It is then allowed to remain until thoroughly dry, when it is taken

from the stretcher and coiled up in the owner's tent until he has

leisure to finish it and render it pliable. This is accomplished by

the slow and tedious process of chewing. Traces and lines for the seal

spears are usually made of seal skin, and in the same way as walrus

and ookjook lines. They also require chewing before being sufficiently

pliable for use. Indeed, all skins require to be chewed before they

are made into clothing. The men chew their lines, but all other skins

are chewed by the women and young girls. It is one circumstance that

is early remarked by the visitor in the Arctic regions, that the

middle-aged and old people have teeth that are worn down to mere stubs

by the constant chewing of skins. A pair of ookjook soles, before being

submitted to the chewing process, are nearly as thick and much stiffer

than the sole-leather of civilized commerce, and it requires the

leisure hours of two days to reduce them to the necessary pliability

for use. It is not only the action of the grinders that brings them to

the proper state, but the warm breath and saliva play an effectual part

in the process. This is usually their visiting work. When they go to

each other's tupics or igloos to make calls, instead of taking their

knitting, the belles of the polar circle take their chewing. It does

not add much to the charms of female society to see them sitting before

you gnawing and sucking a pair of ookjook soles, or twisting an entire

seal-skin into a roll, one end of which is thrust into a capacious

mouth to undergo the masticating and lubricating process. But it does

increase your respect for them to see with what cheerfulness these

women apply themselves to their exceedingly disagreeable labor.

Seal-skins for making coats and trousers are dressed with the hair on,

the fleshy membranes, or "mum'-me," being cut off with an oodloo before

they are washed, stretched, and dried. One good warm spring day is

sufficient to dry a seal-skin, which for this purpose is stretched over

the ground or snow by means of long wooden pins, which keep it elevated

two or three inches, thus allowing the air to circulate underneath it.

Sometimes in the early spring, before the sun attains sufficient power,

a few skins for immediate use are dried over the lamps in the igloos.

This, however, is regarded as a slow and troublesome process, and the

open air is preferred when available. A few seal-skins and walrus

skins, from which the hair has been neatly removed, are left to hang in

the wind and sun for several days, until they acquire a creamy

whiteness, and are then used for trimming. The Kinnepatoos, who are the

dandies of the Esquimau nation, tan nearly all their skins white. Their

walrus and seal lines, and indeed their sled lashings and dog harness,

are sometimes white, as well as the trimmings of their boots and

gloves. Nearly all the varieties of seal are sometimes killed during

the summer and fall, while swimming in the open water; but though often

seen when the weather is calm, the Esquimaux seldom fire at them,

because until the latter part of September they will sink to the

bottom, though killed instantly by a shot through the head or neck.

At a later period a funny incident occurred. We were at Marble Island.

The weather was calm, so that seal heads were sprinkled plentifully

upon the surface of the water. This inspired Lieutenant Schwatka to

try his skill. So, fetching his rifle from the cabin and wiping his

eye-glasses, he shot at a large head about a hundred yards from the

vessel. The seal made a desperate effort to get down in a hurry, but

was evidently badly hurt, and showed a good deal of blood before it

accomplished its descent. Presently it came up again, and a boat was

lowered to pick it up, but it managed to escape capture, though it was

evident that it would soon die. After breakfast the next morning, when

we went on deck, the water was still quite smooth, and presently we

were surprised to see what appeared to be a dead seal floating in on

the tide. There was no doubt that this was the seal that Lieutenant

Schwatka had killed the previous night, and again the boat was lowered

to secure it. No precautions were deemed necessary to avoid making a

noise, and when the boat came alongside one of the men threw down his

oar, rolled up his sleeves, and stooped down to lift the carcass on

board. His surprise may be imagined when, after passing his arms around

it and proceeding to lift it, he felt it suddenly begin to struggle and

slip from his hold and dive below the surface, while a loud shout went

up from the spectators. It was not Lieutenant Schwatka's seal, but an

entirely well one that was sound asleep when it felt the rude embrace

of the sailor.

The seal is an exceedingly useful animal to the Esquimau, for it not

only supplies him with food and clothing, but its blubber furnishes the

fuel for cooking its flesh, lighting the igloo, and drying its skin

before making into clothing. The skin also is made into dog harness and

traces, whip lashes, boots and shoes, gun-covers, water-pails, bags for

the storing of oil and blubber, and his boats are covered with it.

Seal-skin bags, inflated and fastened to walrus lines, are used in

hunting walrus and whales, and finally, the summer dwelling of the

Esquimau is a tent made of seal-skin. A single tent, or tupic, as it

is called by them, is composed of from five to ten skins, which are

split--that is, the mumme is split off and dried separately from the

skin. The rear portion of the tent is made of the skins with the hairy

side out, while the front is made of the transparent mumme, which

admits the light almost as freely as if made of ground glass. The skin

portion is impervious to water, but the mumme admits the rain about as

readily as it does the sunlight. This is no objection, in the mind of

the Esquimau, for it is something he is thoroughly accustomed to. In the

summer his tent is wet with rain, and in the winter, whenever the air

in the igloo is raised to an endurable temperature, the roof melts and

is constantly dripping ice-water down his back or upon his blankets.

Schwatka's Search: Sledging in the Arctic in Quest of the Franklin Records · 第 11 / 17 章