MISCELLANEOUS FARM CONVENIENCES
FARM OFFICE
[Illustration: Figure 170.--Perspective View of Two-Story Corn Crib. The
side of the building is cut away to show the elevating machinery.]
Business farming requires an office. Business callers feel sensitive
about talking farm or live-stock affairs before several members of the
family. But they are quite at ease when alone with the farmer in his
office. A farm office may be small but it should contain a desk or
table, two or three chairs, book shelves for books, drawers for
government bulletins and a cabinet to hold glassware and chemicals for
making soil tests and a good magnifying glass for examining seeds before
planting. A good glass is also valuable in tracing the destructive work
of many kinds of insect pests.
[Illustration: Figure 171.--Floor Plans of Two-Story Corn Crib. The
first floor shows the driveway with corn cribs at the sides and the
second floor plan shows the grain bins over the center driveway, with
location of the downspouts, stairway, etc.]
The office is the proper place for making germination tests of various
farm seeds. Seventy degrees of heat is necessary for the best results in
seed testing. For this reason, as well as for comfort while working, the
heating problem should receive its share of attention. Many times it so
happens that a farmer has a few minutes just before mealtime that he
could devote to office work if the room be warm enough.
[Illustration: Figure 172.--Economy of Round Barn. The diagrams show
that the popular 36' x 80' cow stable and the commonest size of round
barn have about the same capacity. Each barn will stable forty cows, but
the round barn has room for a silo in the center. Both barns have feed
overhead in the shape of hay and straw, but the round feed room saves
steps.]
[Illustration: Figure 173.--Concrete Farm Scale Base and Pit.]
Neatly printed letter-heads and envelopes are important. The sheets of
paper should be eight and a half by eleven inches in size, pure white
and of good quality. The printing should be plain black and of round
medium-sized letters that may be easily read. Fancy lettering and
flourishes are out of place on business stationery.
[Illustration: Figure 174.--Top View of the Hay-Track Roof Extension,
showing the ridgeboard and supporting jack-rafters.]
[Illustration: Figure 175.--Side view showing plan for building a
Hayfork Hood to project from peak of a storage barn. The jack-rafters
form a brace to support the end of the hay-track beam.]
[Illustration: Figure 176.--Slaughter House. The house should be twelve
feet wide. It may be any length to provide storage, but 12 x 12 makes a
good beef skinning floor. The windlass shaft should be ten feet above
the floor, which requires twelve-foot studding. The wheel is eight feet
in diameter and the winding drum is about ten inches. The animal is
killed on the incline outside of the building and it lies limp against
the revolving door. The door catch is sprung back and the carcass rolls
down onto the concrete skinning floor.]
Halftone illustration of farm animals or buildings are better used on
separate advertising sheets that may be folded in with the letters when
wanted.
[Illustration: Figure 177.--Rule of Six, Eight and Ten. Diagram showing
how to stake the foundation of a farm building so the excavation can be
made clear out to the corners without undermining the stakes.]
[Illustration: Figure 178.--Roof Truss built strong enough to support
the roof of a farm garage without center posts.]
[Illustration: Figure 179.--Design of Roof Truss Intended to Span a Farm
Garage.]
[Illustration: Figure 180.--Roof Pitches. Mow capacity of the different
roof pitches is given above the plates in figures.]
Typewriters are so common that a hand-written letter is seldom seen
among business correspondence. A busy farmer is not likely to acquire
much speed with a typewriter, but his son or daughter may. One great
advantage is the making of carbon copies. Every letter received is then
filed in a letter case in alphabetical order and a carbon copy of each
answer is pinned to it for future reference.
[Illustration: Figure 181.--Double Corn Crib. Two cribs may be roofed
this way as cheaply as to roof the two cribs separately. A storeroom is
provided overhead and the bracing prevents the cribs from sagging.]
The cost of furnishing a farm office will depend upon the inclinations
of the man. A cheap kitchen table may be used instead of an expensive
mahogany desk. A new typewriter costs from fifty to ninety dollars, but
a rebuilt machine that will do good work may be obtained for twenty.
A useful magnifying glass with legs may be bought for a dollar or two.
Or considerable money may be invested in a high-powered microscope.
SPEED INDICATOR
The speed requirements of machines are given by the manufacturers. It is
up to the farmer to determine the size of pulleys and the speed of
intermediate shafts between his engine and the machine to be driven. A
speed indicator is held against the end of a shaft at the center. The
indicator pin then revolves with the shaft and the number of revolutions
per minute are counted by timing the pointer on the dial with the second
hand of a watch.
[Illustration: Figure 182.--Speed Timers. Two styles. The point is held
against the center of the shaft to be tested. The number of revolutions
per minute is shown in figures on the face of the dial. The indicator is
timed to the second hand of a watch.]
[Illustration: Figure 183.--Building Bracket. Made of 2 x 4 pieces put
together at right angles with diagonal braces. The supporting leg fits
between the four diagonal braces.]
SOIL TOOLS
Soil moisture often is the limiting factor in crop raising. Soil
moisture may be measured by analysis. The first step is to obtain
samples at different depths. This is done accurately and quickly with a
good soil auger. Other paraphernalia is required to make a careful
analysis of the sample, but a farmer of experience will make a mud ball
and form a very good estimate of the amount of water in it.
[Illustration: Figure 184.--Diagram showing how to cut a plank on a
band-saw to form a curved rafter. The two pieces of the plank are spiked
together as shown in the lower drawing. This makes a curved rafter
without waste of material.]
[Illustration: Figure 185.--Breeding Crate for Hogs. The illustration
shows the manner of construction.]
[Illustration: Figure 186.--Soil Auger. Scientific farming demands that
soils shall be tested for moisture. A long handled auger is used to
bring samples of soil to the surface. The samples are weighed, the water
evaporated and the soil reweighed to determine the amount of moisture.]
[Illustration: Figure 187.--Post Hole Diggers. Two patterns of the same
kind of digger are shown. The first has iron handles, the lower has
wooden handles.]
[Illustration: Figure 188.--Hoes and Weeders. The hang of a hoe affects
its working. The upper hoe shows about the easiest working angle between
the blade and the handle. The difference between a hoe and a weeder is
that the hoe is intended to strike into the ground to loosen the soil,
while the blade of the weeder is intended to work parallel with the
surface of the soil to cut young weeds.]
[Illustration: Figure 189.--Manure Hook and Potato Diggers.]
[Illustration: Figure 190.--Spud. Certain vegetables are grown for crop
and for seed. The green plants are thinned with a spud for sale, leaving
the best to ripen for seed. It is also used to dig tough weeds,
especially those having tap roots.]
[Illustration: Figure 191.--(1) Corn Cutting Knife. (2) Asparagus
Knife.]
FENCE-MAKING TOOLS
_Sliding Field Gate._--Each farm field should have a gate, not
necessarily expensive, but it should be reasonably convenient. Farm
field gates should be made sixteen feet long, which will allow for a
clear opening about fourteen feet wide. The cheapest way to make a good
farm gate is to use a 10-inch board for the bottom, 8-inch for the board
next to the bottom and three 6-inch boards above that. The space between
the bottom board and next board is two inches. This narrow space
prevents hogs from lifting the gate with their noses. The spaces widen
toward the top, so that the gate when finished is five feet high. If
colts run the fields then a bar is needed along the top of the gate. Six
cross pieces 1 inch by 6 inches are used to hold the gate together.
These cross pieces are bolted through at each intersection. Also a
slanting brace is used on the front half of the gate to keep it from
racking and this brace is put on with bolts. Two posts are set at each
end of the gate. The front posts hold the front end of the gate between
them, and the rear posts the same. There is a cross piece which reaches
from one of the rear posts to the other to slide the gate and hold it
off the ground. A similar cross piece holds the front end of the gate up
from the ground. Sometimes a swivel roller is attached to the rear cross
piece to roll the gate if it is to be used a good deal. A plain, simple
sliding gate is all that is necessary for fields some distance from the
barn.
[Illustration: Figure 192.--(1) Plumb-Bob and Plumb-Line. The line is
paid out about 6 feet from the spool and given a half hitch. It may then
be hung over the wire and the spool will balance the bob. (2) Bipod. The
legs of a fence bipod are cut 6 feet long. The bolt is put through 6
inches from the top ends. By the aid of the plummet the upper wire is
strung plumb over the barb-wire in the furrow and 4' 6" above grade. The
lower parts of the posts are set against the barb-wire and the upper
faces of the posts at the top are set even with the upper wire. This
plan not only places the posts in line, both at the top and bottom, but
it regulates the height.]
[Illustration: Figure 193.--Fence Tools. The upper tool is a round steel
pin to twist heavy brace wires. The scoop is for working stones out of
post-holes. The steel crowbar is for working around the stones to loosen
them.]
[Illustration: Figure 194.--Fence Pliers. This is a heavy fence tool
made to pull fence staples and to stretch, cut and splice wire.]
CORN SHOCK HORSE
[Illustration: Figure 195.--Corn Horse. When corn is cut by hand there
is no better shocking device than the old-style corn horse. It is almost
as handy when setting up the corn sheaves from the corn binder.]
A convenient corn shocking horse is made with a pole cut from a straight
tree. The pole is about six inches through at the butt and tapers to a
small end. About twenty feet is a good length. There are two legs which
hold the large end of the pole up about 40" from the ground. These legs
are well spread apart at the bottom. Two feet back from the legs is a
horizontal hole about one and one-quarter inches in diameter to hold the
crossbar. This crossbar may be an old broom handle. The pole and the
crossbar mark the four divisions of a corn shock. Corn is cut and stood
up in each corner, usually nine hills in a corner, giving thirty-six
hills to a shock. Corn planted in rows is counted up to make about the
same amount of corn to the shock. Of course a heavy or light crop must
determine the number of rows or hills. When enough corn is cut for a
shock it is tied with two bands, the crossbar is pulled out and the corn
horse is dragged along to the next stand.
HUSKING-PIN
Hand huskers for dividing the cornhusks at the tips of the ears are made
of wood, bone or steel. Wooden husking-pins are made of ironwood,
eucalyptus, second growth hickory, or some other tough hardwood. The
pin is about four inches long, five-eighths of an inch thick and it is
shaped like a lead-pencil with a rather long point. A recessed girdle is
cut around the barrel of the pin and a leather finger ring fits into and
around this girdle. Generally the leather ring fits the larger finger to
hold the pin in the right position while permitting it to turn to wear
the point all around alike. Bone husking-pins are generally flat with a
hole through the center to hold the leather finger ring. Steel
husking-pins are shaped differently and have teeth to catch and tear the
husks apart.
[Illustration: Figure 196.--Brick Trowel.]
[Illustration: Figure 197.--Plastering Trowel.]
[Illustration: Figure 198.--Concrete Hog Wallow, showing drain pipe.]
[Illustration: Figure 199.--Concrete Center Alley for Hog House. The
upper illustration represents the wooden template used to form the
center of the hog house floor.]
[Illustration: Figure 200.--Sanitary Pig-Pen. One of the most
satisfactory farrowing houses is constructed of concrete posts 6" square
and 6" square mesh hog fencing and straw. The posts are set to make
farrowing pens 8' wide and 16' deep from front to back. Woven wire is
stretched and fastened to both sides of the posts at the sides and back
of each pen. Straw is stuffed in between the two wire nets, thus making
partitions of straw 6" thick and 42" high. Fence wire is stretched over
the top and straw piled on deep enough to shed rain. The front of the
pens face the south and are closed by wooden gates. In the spring the
pigs are turned out on pasture, the straw roof is hauled to the fields
for manure and the straw partitions burned out. The sun shines into the
skeleton pens all summer so that all mischievous bacteria are killed and
the hog-lice are burned or starved. The next fall concrete floors may be
laid in the pens, the partitions restuffed with straw and covered with
another straw roof. In a colder climate I would cover the whole top with
a straw roof. Sufficient ventilation would work through the straw
partitions and the front gate. In very cold weather add a thin layer of
straw to the gate.]
[Illustration: Figure 201.--Concrete Wall Mold. Wooden molds for shaping
a concrete wall may be made as shown. If the wall is to be low--2' or
less--the mold will stay in place without bolting or wiring the sides
together. The form is made level by first leveling the 2" x 6" stringers
that support the form.]
[Illustration: Figure 202.--Husking-Pin. The leather finger ring is
looped into the recess in the wooden pin.]
[Illustration: Figure 203.--Harness Punch. The hollow punch points are
of different sizes.]
[Illustration: Figure 204.--Belt Punch. Two or three sizes should be
kept in the tool box. Belt holes should be small to hold the lace tight.
The smooth running of belts depends a good deal on the lacing. Holes
punch better against the end of a hickory block or other fine grained
hardwood.]
PAINT BRUSHES
Paint brushes may be left in the paint for a year without apparent
injury. The paint should be deep enough to nearly bury the bristles.
Pour a little boiled linseed oil over the top to form a skin to keep the
air out. It is cheaper to buy a new brush than to clean the paint out of
one that has been used.
[Illustration: Figure 205.--Knots. The simple principles of knot tying
as practiced on farms are here represented.]
[Illustration: Figure 206.--Sheepshank, two half hitches in a rope to
take up slack. The rope may be folded upon itself as many times as
necessary.]
[Illustration: Figure 207.--Marline Spike. Used for splicing ropes,
tying rose knots, etc.]
FRUIT PICKING
[Illustration: Figure 208.--Fruit-Picking Tray. It is used for picking
grapes and other fruits. The California lug box has vertical sides and
is the same size top and bottom. Otherwise the construction is similar.]
Apples are handled as carefully as eggs by men who understand the
business of getting high prices. Picking boxes for apples have bothered
orchard men more than any other part of the business. It is so difficult
to get help to handle apples without bruising that many inventions have
been tried to lessen the damage. In western New York a tray with
vertical ends and slanting sides has been adopted by grape growers as
the most convenient tray for grapes. Apple growers are adopting the same
tray. It is made of three-eighths-inch lumber cut 30 inches long for the
sides, using two strips for each side. The bottom is 30 inches long and
three-eighths of an inch thick, made in one piece. The ends are
seven-eighths of an inch thick cut to a bevel so the top edge of the end
piece is fourteen inches long and the bottom edge is ten inches long.
The depth of the end piece is eight inches. Hand cleats are nailed on
the outsides of the end pieces so as to project one-half inch above the
top. These cleats not only serve to lift and carry the trays, but when
they are loaded on a wagon the bottoms fit in between the cleats to hold
them from slipping endways. In piling these picking boxes empty, one
end is slipped outward over the cleat until the other end drops down.
This permits half nesting when the boxes are piled up for storage or
when loaded on wagons to move to the orchard.
[Illustration: Figure 209.--Fruit Thinning Nippers. Three styles of
apple-stem cutters are shown. They are also used for picking grapes and
other fruits.]
Apples are picked into the trays from the trees. The trays are loaded on
to wagons or stone-boats and hauled to the packing shed, where the
apples are rolled out gently over the sloping sides of the crates on to
the cushioned bottom of the sorting table. Orchard men should have
crates enough to keep the pickers busy without emptying until they are
hauled to the packing shed. The use of such trays or crates save
handling the apples over several times. The less apples are handled the
fewer bruises are made.
[Illustration: Figure 210.--Apple Picking Ladder. When apples are picked
and placed in bushel trays a ladder on wheels with shelves is convenient
for holding the trays.]
In California similar trays are used, but they have straight sides and
are called lug boxes. Eastern fruit men prefer the sloping sides because
they may be emptied easily, quickly and gently.
FRUIT PICKING LADDERS
Commercial orchards are pruned to keep the bearing fruit spurs as near
the ground as possible, so that ladders used at picking time are not so
long as they used to be.
[Illustration: Figure 211.--Stepladder and Apple-Picking Bag. This
ladder has only three feet, but the bottom of the ladder is made wide to
prevent upsetting. This bag is useful when picking scattering apples on
the outer or upper branches. Picking bags carelessly used are the cause
of many bruised apples.]
[Illustration: Figure 212.--Tree Pruners. The best made pruners are the
cheapest. This long handled pruner is made of fine tool steel from the
cutting parts clear to the outer ends of the wooden handles. A positive
stop prevents the handles from coming together. Small one-hand pruning
nippers are made for clean cutting. The blades of both pruners should
work towards the tree trunk so the hook will mash the bark on the
discarded portion of the limb.]
The illustration shows one of the most convenient picking ladders. It is
a double ladder with shelves to hold picking trays supported by two
wheels and two legs. The wheels which are used to support one side of
the frame are usually old buggy wheels. A hind axle together with the
wheels works about right. The ladder frame is about eight feet high with
ladder steps going up from each side. These steps also form the support
for the shelves. Picking trays or boxes are placed on the shelves, so
the latter will hold eight or ten bushels of apples, and may be wheeled
directly to the packing shed if the distance is not too great.
[Illustration: Figure 213.--Shears. The first pair is used for sheep
shearing. The second is intended for cutting grass around the edges of
walks and flower beds.]
Step-ladders from six to ten feet long are more convenient to get up
into the middle of the tree than almost any other kind of ladder.
Commercial apple trees have open tops to admit sunshine. For this
reason, straight ladders are not much used. It is necessary to have
ladders built so they will support themselves. Sometimes only one leg is
used in front of a step-ladder and sometimes ladders are wide at the
bottom and taper to a point at the top. The kind of ladder to use
depends upon the size of the trees and the manner in which they have
been pruned. Usually it is better to have several kinds of ladders of
different sizes and lengths. Pickers then have no occasion to wait for
each other.
FEEDING RACKS
Special racks for the feeding of alfalfa hay to hogs are built with
slatted sides hinged at the top so they will swing in when the hogs
crowd their noses through to get the hay. This movement drops the hay
down within reach. Alfalfa hay is especially valuable as a winter feed
for breeding stock. Sows may be wintered on alfalfa with one ear of
corn a day and come out in the spring in fit condition to suckle a fine
litter of pigs. Alfalfa is a strong protein feed. It furnishes the
muscle-forming substances necessary for the young litter by causing a
copious flow of milk. One ear of corn a day is sufficient to keep the
sow in good condition without laying on too much fat. When shoats are
fed in the winter for fattening, alfalfa hay helps them to grow. In
connection with grain it increases the weight rapidly without adding a
great deal of expense to the ration. Alfalfa in every instance is
intended as a roughage, as an appetizer and as a protein feed. Fat must
be added by the use of corn, kaffir corn, Canada peas, barley or other
grains. Alfalfa hay is intended to take the place of summer pasture in
winter more than as a fattening ration.
[Illustration: Figure 214.--Horse Feeding Rack. This is a barnyard hay
feeder for horses and colts. The diagonal boarding braces each corner
post and leaves large openings at the sides. Horses shy at small hay
holes. The top boards and the top rail are 2 x 4s for strength. The
bottom is floored to save the chaff.]
[Illustration: Figure 215.--Corner Post Detail of Horse Feeding Rack. A
2 x 6 is spiked into the edge of a 2 x 4, making a corner post 6"
across. The side boarding is cut even with the corner of the post and
the open corner is filled with a two-inch quarter-round as shown.]
[Illustration: Figure 216.--Automatic Hog Feeder. The little building is
8' x 12' on the ground and it is 10' high to the plates. The crushed
grain is shoveled in from behind and it feeds down hopper fashion as
fast as the hogs eat it. The floor is made of matched lumber. It should
stand on a dry concrete floor.]
[Illustration: Figure 217.--Sheep Feeding Rack. The hay bottom and grain
trough sides slope together at 45 deg. angles. The boarding is made tight to
hold chaff and grain from wasting.]
[Illustration: Figure 218.--Rack Base and Sides. The 2 x 4s are halved
at the ends and put together at right angles. These frames are placed 3'
apart and covered with matched flooring. Light braces should be nailed
across these frames a few inches up from the ground. The 1 x 4 pickets
are placed 7" apart in the clear, so the sheep can get their heads
through to feed. These picketed frames are bolted to the base and framed
around the top. If the rack is more than 9' long there should be a
center tie or partition. Twelve feet is a good length to make the
racks.]
SPLIT-LOG ROAD DRAG
The only low cost road grader of value is the split-log road drag. It
should be exactly what the name implies. It should be made from a light
log about eight inches in diameter split through the middle with a saw.
Plenty of road drags are made of timbers instead of split logs, but the
real principle is lost because such drags are too heavy and clumsy.
They cannot be quickly adjusted to the varying road conditions met with
while in use.
[Illustration: Figure 219.--Hog Trough. In a winter hog house the feed
trough is placed next to the alley or passageway. A cement trough is
best. A drop gate is hinged over the trough so it can be swung in while
putting feed in the trough. The same gate is opened up level to admit
hogs to the pen.]
[Illustration: Figure 220.--Reinforced Hog Trough. The section of hog
trough to the left is reinforced with chicken wire, one-inch mesh. The
trough to the right is reinforced with seven 1/4" rods--three in the
bottom and two in each side.]
[Illustration: Figure 221.--Double Poultry Feeding Trough with Partition
in the Center.]
[Illustration: Figure 222.--Poultry Feeder with Metal or Crockery
Receptacle.]
The illustration shows the right way of making a road drag, and the
manner in which it is drawn along at an angle to the roadway so as to
move the earth from the sides towards the center, but illustrations
are useless for showing how to operate them to do good work. The
eccentricities of a split-log road drag may be learned in one lesson by
riding it over a mile or two of country road shortly after the frost has
left the ground in the spring of the year. It will be noticed that the
front half of the road drag presents the flat side of the split log to
the work of shaving off the lumps while the other half log levels and
smooths and puddles the loosened moist earth by means of the rounded
side. Puddling makes earth waterproof. The front, or cutting edge, is
faced with steel. The ridges and humps are cut and shoved straight ahead
or to one side to fill holes and ruts. This is done by the driver, who
shifts his weight from one end to the other, and from front to back of
his standing platform to distribute the earth to the best advantage. The
rounded side of the rear half log presses the soft earth into place and
leaves the surface smooth.
[Illustration: Figure 223.--Split-Log Road Drag. The front edge is shod
with a steel plate to do the cutting and the round side of the rear log
grinds the loosened earth fine and presses it into the wagon tracks and
water holes.]
[Illustration: Figure 224.--Heavy Breaking Plow, used for road work and
other tough jobs.]
Unfortunately, the habit of using narrow tired wagons on country roads
has become almost universal in the United States. To add to their
destructive propensities, all wagons in some parts of the country have
the same width of tread so that each wheel follows in paths made by
other wheels, until they cut ruts of considerable depth. These little
narrow ditches hold water so that it cannot run off into the drains at
the sides of the roadway. When a rut gets started, each passing wheel
squeezes out the muddy water, or if the wheel be revolving at a speed
faster than a walk it throws the water, and the water carries part of
the roadway with it so that small ruts are made large and deep ruts are
made deeper. In some limited sections road rules demand that wagons
shall have wide tires and have shorter front axles, so that with the
wide tires and the uneven treads the wheels act as rollers instead of
rut makers. It is difficult to introduce such requirements into every
farm section. In the meantime the evils of narrow tires may be overcome
to a certain extent by the persistent and proper use of the split-log
road drag. These drags are most effectual in the springtime when the
frost is coming out of the ground. During the muddy season the roads get
worked up into ruts and mire holes, which, if taken in time, may be
filled by running lengthwise of the road with the drag when the earth is
still soft. When the ground shows dry on top and is still soft and wet
underneath is the time the drags do the best work by scraping the drier
hummocks into the low places where the earth settles hard as it dries.
A well rounded, smooth road does not get muddy in the summer time.
Summer rains usually come with a dash. Considerable water falls in a
short time, and the very act of falling with force first lays the dust,
then packs the surface. The smooth packed surface acts like a roof, and
almost before the rain stops falling all surface water is drained off to
the sides so that an inch down under the surface the roadbed is as hard
as it was before the rain. That is the reason why split log road drags
used persistently in the spring and occasionally later in the season
will preserve good roads all summer. It is very much better to follow
each summer rain with the road drag, but it is not so necessary as
immediate attention at the proper time in spring. Besides, farmers are
so busy during the summer months that they find it difficult to spend
the time. In some sections of the middle West one man is hired to do the
dragging at so much per trip over the road. He makes his calculations
accordingly and is prepared to do the dragging at all seasons when
needed. This plan usually works out the best because one man then makes
it his business and he gets paid for the amount of work performed. This
man should live at the far end of the road division so that he can
smooth his own pathway leading to town.
STEEL ROAD DRAG
Manufacturers are making road drags of steel with tempered blades
adjustable to any angle by simply moving the lever until the dog engages
in the proper notch. Some of these machines are made with blades
reversible, so that the other side can be used for cutting when the
first edge is worn. For summer use the steel drag works very well, but
it lacks the smoothing action of a well balanced log drag.
SEED HOUSE AND BARN TRUCKS
[Illustration: Figure 225.--Barn Trucks. The platform truck is made to
move boxed apples and other fruit. The bag truck is well proportioned
and strong, but is not full ironed.]
Bag trucks for handling bags of grain and seeds should be heavy. Bag
truck wheels should be eight inches in diameter with a three-inch face.
The steel bar or shoe that lifts and carries the bag should be
twenty-two inches in length. That means that the bottom of the truck in
front is twenty-two inches wide. The wheels run behind this bar so the
hubs do not project to catch against standing bags or door frames. The
length of truck handles from the steel lift bar to the top end of the
hand crook is four feet, six inches. In buying bag trucks it is better
to get the heavy solid kind that will not upset. The light ones are a
great nuisance when running them over uneven floors. The wheels are too
narrow and too close together and the trucks tip over under slight
provocation. Platform trucks for use in moving boxes of apples or crates
of potatoes or bags of seed in the seed house or warehouse also should
be heavy. The most approved platform truck, the kind that market men
use, is made with a frame four feet in length by two feet in width. The
frame is made of good solid hardwood put together with mortise and
tenon. The cross pieces or stiles are three-quarters of an inch lower
than the side pieces or rails, which space is filled with hardwood
flooring boards firmly bolted to the cross pieces so they come up flush
with the side timbers. The top of the platform should be sixteen inches
up from the floor. There are two standards in front which carry a
wooden crossbar over the front end of the truck. This crossbar is used
for a handle to push or pull the truck. The height of the handle-bar
from the floor is three feet. Rear wheels are five inches in diameter
and work on a swivel so they turn in any direction like a castor. The
two front wheels carry the main weight. They are twelve inches in
diameter with a three-inch face. The wheels are bored to fit a one-inch
steel axle and have wide boxings bolted to the main timbers of the truck
frame. Like the two-wheel bag truck, the wheels of the platform truck
are under the frame so they do not project out in the way, which is a
great advantage when the truck is being used in a crowded place.
[Illustration: Figure 226.--Farm Gate Post with Copper Mail Box.]
[Illustration: Figure 227.--Concrete Post Supporting a Waterproof
Clothes Line Reel Box.]
[Illustration: Figure 228.--Dumb Waiter. The cage is poised by a
counterweight. It is guided by a rope belt which runs on grooved pulleys
at the top and bottom.]
HOME CANNING OUTFIT
There are small canning outfits manufactured and sold for farm use that
work on the factory principle. For canning vegetables, the heating is
done under pressure because a great deal of heat is necessary to destroy
the bacteria that spoil vegetables in the cans. Steam under pressure is
a good deal hotter than boiling water. There is considerable work in
using a canning outfit, but it gets the canning out of the way quickly.
Extra help may be employed for a few days to do the canning on the same
principle that farmers employ extra help at threshing time and do it all
up at once. Of course, fruits and vegetables keep coming along at
different times in the summer, but the fall fruit canning may be done at
two or three sittings arranged a week or two apart and enough fruit
packed away in the cellar to last a big family a whole year. Canning
machinery is simple and inexpensive. These outfits may be bought from
$10 up. Probably a $20 or $25 canner would be large enough for a large
family, or a dozen different families if it could be run on a
co-operative plan.
[Illustration: Figure 229.--Clothes Line Tightener. This device is made
of No. 9 wire bent as shown in the illustration.]
[Illustration: Figure 230.--Goat Stall. Milch goats are milked on a
raised platform. Feed is placed in the manger. The opening in the side
of the manger is a stanchion to hold them steady.]
[Illustration: Figure 231.--Horse Clippers. Hand clippers are shown to
the left. The flexible shaft clipper to the right may be turned by hand
for clipping a few horses or shearing a few sheep, but for real business
it should be driven by an electric motor.]
ELECTRIC TOWEL
The "air towel" is sanitary, as well as an economical method of drying
the hands. A foot pedal closes a quick-acting switch, thereby putting
into operation a blower that forces air through an electric heating
device so arranged as to distribute the warmed air to all parts of the
hands at the same time. The supply of hot air continues as long as the
foot pedal is depressed. The hands are thoroughly dried in thirty
seconds.
STALLS FOR MILCH GOATS
Milch goats are not fastened with stanchions like cows. The front of the
manger is boarded tight with the exception of a round hole about two
feet high and a slit in the boards reaching from the round opening to
within a few inches of the floor. The round hole is made large enough so
that the goat puts her head through to reach the feed, and the slit is
narrow enough so she cannot back up to pull the feed out into the stall.
This is a device to save fodder.
[Illustration: Figure 232.--Hog Catching Hook. The wooden handle fits
loosely into the iron socket. As soon as the hog's hind leg is engaged
the wooden handle is removed and the rope held taut.]
STABLE HELPS
[Illustration: Figure 233.--Bull Nose-Chain. Cross bulls may be turned
out to pasture with some degree of safety by snapping a chain like this
into the nose-ring. The chain should be just long enough to swing and
wrap around the bull's front legs when he is running. Also the length is
intended to drag the ring where he will step on it with his front feet.
There is some danger of pulling the nose ring out.]
[Illustration: Figure 234.--Manure Carriers. There are two kinds of
manure carriers in general use. The principal difference is the elevator
attachment for hoisting when the spreader stands too high for the usual
level dump.]
Overhead tracks have made feed carriers possible. Litter or feed
carriers and manure carriers run on the same kind of a track, the only
difference is in size and shape of the car and the manner in which the
contents are unloaded. Manure carriers and litter carriers have a
continuous track that runs along over the manure gutters and overhead
lengthwise of the feed alleys. There are a number of different kinds of
carriers manufactured, all of which seem to do good service. The object
is to save labor in doing the necessary work about dairy stables. To get
the greatest possible profit from cows, it is absolutely necessary that
the stable should be kept clean and sanitary, also that the cows shall
be properly fed several times a day. Different kinds of feed are given
at the different feeding periods. It is impossible to have all the
different kinds of food stored in sufficient quantities within easy
reach of the cows. Hence, the necessity of installing some mechanical
arrangement to fetch and carry. The only floor carrier in use in dairy
stables is a truck for silage. Not in every stable is this the case.
Sometimes a feed carrier is run directly to the silo. It depends a good
deal on the floor what kind of a carrier is best for silage. The
advantage of an overhead track is, that it is always free from litter.
Where floor trucks are used, it is necessary to keep the floor bare of
obstruction. This is not considered a disadvantage because the floor
should be kept clean anyway.
[Illustration: Figure 235.--Cow Stanchion. Wooden cow stanchions may be
made as comfortable for the cows as the iron ones.]
HOUSE PLUMBING
When water is pumped by an engine and stored for use in a tank to be
delivered under pressure in the house, then the additional cost of hot
and cold water and the necessary sink and bath room fixtures is
comparatively small. Modern plumbing fixtures fit so perfectly and go
together so easily that the cost of installing house plumbing in the
country has been materially reduced, while the dangers from noxious
gases have been entirely eliminated. Open ventilator pipes carry the
poisonous gases up through the roof of the house to float harmlessly
away in the atmosphere. Septic tanks take care of the sewerage better
than the sewer systems in some towns. Plumbing fixtures may be cheap or
expensive, according to the wishes and pocketbook of the owner. The
cheaper grades are just as useful, but there are expensive outfits that
are very much more ornamental.
FARM SEPTIC TANK
[Illustration: Figure 236.--Frame for Holding Record Sheets in a Dairy
Stable.]
[Illustration: Figure 237.--Loading Shute for Hogs. This loading shute
is made portable and may be moved like a wheelbarrow.]
Supplying water under pressure in the farmhouse demands a septic tank to
get rid of the waste. A septic tank is a scientific receptacle to take
the poison out of sewerage. It is a simple affair consisting of two
underground compartments, made water-tight, with a sewer pipe to lead
the waste water from the house into the first compartment and a drain to
carry the denatured sewerage away from the second compartment. The first
compartment is open to the atmosphere, through a ventilator, but the
second compartment is made as nearly air-tight as possible. The
scientific working of a septic tank depends upon the destructive work of
two kinds of microscopic life known as aerobic and anaerobic forms of
bacteria. Sewerage in the first tank is worked over by aerobic bacteria,
the kind that require a small amount of oxygen in order to live and
carry on their work. The second compartment is inhabited by anaerobic
bacteria, or forms of microscopic life that work practically without
air. The principles of construction require that a septic tank shall be
large enough to contain two days' supply of sewerage in each
compartment; thus, requiring four days for the sewerage to enter and
leave the tank.
[Illustration: Figure 238.--Brass Valves. Two kinds of globe valves are
used in farm waterworks. The straight valve shown to the left and the
right angle valve to the right. Either one may be fitted with a long
shank to reach above ground when pipes are laid deep to prevent
freezing.]
Estimating 75 gallons daily of sewerage for each inhabitant of the house
and four persons to a family, the septic tank should be large enough to
hold 600 gallons, three hundred gallons in each compartment, which
would require a tank about four feet in width and six feet in length and
four feet in depth. These figures embrace more cubic feet of tank than
necessary to meet the foregoing requirements. It is a good plan to leave
a margin of safety.
[Illustration: Figure 239.--Septic Tank, a double antiseptic process for
purifying sewerage.]
It is usual to lay a vitrified sewer, four inches in diameter, from
below the bottom of the cellar to the septic tank, giving it a fall of
one-eighth inch in ten feet. The sewer enters the tank at the top of the
standing liquid and delivers the fresh sewerage from the house through
an elbow and a leg of pipe that reaches to within about six inches of
the bottom of the tank. The reason for this is to admit fresh sewerage
without disturbing the scum on the surface of the liquid in the tank.
The scum is a protection for the bacteria. It helps them to carry on
their work of destruction. The same principle applies to the second
compartment. The liquid from the first compartment is carried over into
the second compartment by means of a bent pipe in the form of a siphon
which fills up gradually and empties automatically when the liquid in
the first compartment rises to a certain level. The discharging siphon
leg should be the shortest. The liquid from the second compartment is
discharged into the drain in the same manner. There are special valves
made for the final discharge, but they are not necessary. The bottom of
the tank is dug deep enough to hold sewerage from two to four feet in
depth. The top surface of the liquid in the tank is held down to a level
of at least six inches below the bottom of the cellar. So there is no
possible chance of the house sewer filling and backing up towards the
house. Usually the vitrified sewer pipe is four inches in diameter, the
septic tank siphons for a small tank are three inches in diameter and
the final discharge pipe is three inches in diameter, with a rapid fall
for the first ten feet after leaving the tank.
Septic tanks should be made of concrete, waterproofed on the inside to
prevent the possibility of seepage. Septic tank tops are made of
reinforced concrete with manhole openings. Also the manhole covers are
made of reinforced concrete, either beveled to fit the openings or made
considerably larger than the opening, so that they sit down flat on the
top surface of the tank. These covers are always deep enough down in the
ground so that when covered over the earth holds them in place.
In laying vitrified sewer it is absolutely necessary to calk each joint
with okum or lead, or okum reinforced with cement. It is almost
impossible to make a joint tight with cement alone, although it can be
done by an expert. Each length of the sewer-pipe should be given a
uniform grade. The vitrified sewer is trapped outside of the building
with an ordinary S-trap ventilated, which leaves the sewer open to the
atmosphere and prevents the possibility of back-pressure that might
drive the poisonous gases from the decomposing sewerage through the
sewer back into the house. In this way, the septic tank is made entirely
separate from the house plumbing, except that the two systems are
connected at this outside trap.
It is sometimes recommended that the waste water from the second
compartment shall be distributed through a series of drains made with
three-inch or four-inch drain tile and that the outlet of this set of
drains shall empty into or connect with a regularly organized field
drainage system. Generally speaking, the final discharge of liquid from
a septic tank that is properly constructed is inoffensive and harmless.
However, it is better to use every possible precaution to preserve the
health of the family, and it is better to dispose of the final waste in
such a way as to prevent any farm animal from drinking it.
While manholes are built into septic tanks for the purpose of
examination, in practice they are seldom required. If the tanks are
properly built and rightly proportioned to the sewerage requirements
they will take care of the waste water from the house year after year
without attention. Should any accidents occur, they are more likely to
be caused by a leakage in the vitrified sewer than from any other cause.
Manufacturers of plumbing supplies furnish the siphons together with
instructions for placing them properly in the concrete walls. Some firms
supply advertising matter from which to work out the actual size and
proportions of the different compartments and all connections. The
making of a septic tank is simple when the principle is once
understood.
INDEX
PAGE
Acetylene gas 129
Air pressure pump 107
Anvil 33
Apple-picking bag 216
ladder 215
Asparagus knife 205
Auger, ship 26
Auger-bit 24, 25
Automatic hog feeder 219
Axles, wagon 52
Babbitting boxings 73
Barn trucks 226
Belt punch 211
work 146
Bench and vise 34
Bench for iron work 35
for woodworking 16
Bipod 206
Bits, extension boring 26
Bit, twist-drill, for wood-boring 25
Blacksmith hammers 61
shop 31
Block and tackle 77
Bobsleighs 188
Boiler, steam 90
Bolster spring 186
stake 187
Bolt cutter 45
Bolts, carriage and machine 56
emergency 53
home-made 52
plow and sickle bar 56
Boxings, babbitting 73
Brace, wagon-box 58
Bramble hook 20
Brass valves 236
Breeding crate for hogs 203
Brick trowel 209
Bridge auger 26
Bucket yoke 75
Buck rake 165
Building bracket 202
Bull nose-chain 233
treadmill 81
Cable hay stacker 176
California hay ricker 176
Calipers 43
Caliper rule 14
Canning outfit 229
Carpenter's bench 17
trestle 17
Cart, two-wheel 191
Centrifugal pumps 105
Chain, logging 50
Chisels and gouges 28
Circular saw, filing 69
jointing 68
setting 68
Clearing land by tractor 146
Clevises, plow 58
Clod crusher 155
Clothes line reel box, concrete 228
Clothes line tightener 230
Cold-chisel 37
Colt-breaking sulkey 192
Compasses 18
Concrete center alley for hog house 209
farm scale base and pit 196
hog wallow 209
wall mold 210
Conveniences, miscellaneous farm 194
Conveyances, farm 179
Corn crib, double 201
two-story 194
Corn cultivator 142
planter 158
shock horse 208
Cotter pin tool 44
Coulter clamp 54
Countersink 41
Cow stanchion 234
Crop machinery, special 161
Crops, kind of, to irrigate 118
Crowbars 46
Cultivator, combination 143
corn 142
Cutting nippers 46
Derrick fork 168
Dies and taps 55
Diggers, potato 205
Disk harrow 152
plow 137
Dog churn 79
power 80
Draw-filing 62
Drawing-knife 22
Drill, grain 160
power post 38
Drill-press 39
electric 40
Driven machines 100
Dumbwaiter 229
Economy of plowing by tractor 146
Electricity on the farm 121, 127
Electric lighting 123
Electric power plant 122
towel 231
Elevating machinery 133
Elevator, grain 134
Emery grinders 31
Engine and truck, portable 94
Engine, gasoline 91
kerosene 92
steam 90
Eveners for three- and four-horse teams 139
Extension boring bits 26
Farm conveniences 194
conveyances 179
office 194
shop and implement house 9
shop work 50
tractor 97
waterworks 89, 100
Feed crusher 131
Feeding racks 217
Fence-making tools 205, 206
Fence pliers 207
File handle 36
Files and rasps 36
Filing hand saw 56
roll 63
Flail 75
Fore-plane 27
Forge 32
Forges, portable 32
Forging iron and steel 59
Fruit picking 212
ladders 215
tray 213
Fruit-thinning nippers 214
Gambrel whiffletree 173
Garage 10
Garden weeder 54
Gas, acetylene 129
Gasoline engine 91
house lightning 128
Gate, sliding field 205
Gatepost with copper mailbox 227
Gauge, double-marking 22
Generating mechanical power 74
Goat stall 230
Grain drill 160
elevator 134
elevator, portable 135
Grass hook 163
Grindstone 28
Hacksaw 45
Hammers, blacksmith 61
machinist's 42
Hand axe 23
Hand saw 19, 65
filing 66
jointing 65
setting 65
using 67
Handspike 24
Hardy 43
Harness punch 211
Harrow cart 154
disk 152
sled 141
spike-tooth 141
Harvesting by tractor 146
Hay carrier carriage 172
Hay crop, handling 163
Hay derricks, Idaho 171
Western 169
Hayford, double harpoon 169
grapple 170
hitch 173
hood 197
Hayrake, revolving 163
Hay ricker, California 176
Hay rope pulleys 174
Hay skids 167
Hay sling 167
Hay stacker, cable 176
Haystack knife 168
Hay-tedder 165
Hay-track roof extension 197
Hoe, how to sharpen 70
wheel 162
Hoes and weeders 204
Hog catching hook 232
Hog feeder, automatic 219
trough 221
trough, reinforced 222
wallow, concrete 209
Hoist, oldest farm 133
Hoists 78
Home repair work, profitable 50
Horse clippers 231
Horse feeding rack 218
Horsepower 86
House plumbing 234
Husking-pin 208
Hydraulic ram 95
Idaho hay derricks 171
Implement shed 10
shed and work shop 12
Iron, forging 59
Irons for neckyoke and whiffletree 51
Iron roller 157
Iron working tools 42
Irrigation 112
by pumping 112
overhead spray 116
Jointer, carpenter's 27
Jointer plows 144
Jointing hand saw 65
Kerosene engine 92
Keyhole saw 20
Knife, asparagus 205
corn cutting 205
haystack 168
Knots 212
Lag screw 57
Land float 156
Level, carpenter's 24
iron stock 25
Lighting, gasoline 128
Linchpin farm wagons 185
Link, cold-shut 43
plow 58
Loading chute for hogs 235
Logging chain 50
Machines, driven 100
Machinist's hammers 42
vise 47
Manure carriers 233
Marline spike 212
Measuring mechanical work 14
Mechanical power, generating 74
Mechanics of plowing 138
Melting ladle 73
Monkey-wrench 19
Mule pump 84
Nail hammers 21
Nail set 37
Office, farm 194
Oilstone 15
Overhead spray irrigation 116
Oxen 181
Paint brushes 212
Pea guard 168
Picking fruit 212
Pig-pen, sanitary 210
Pincers 44
Pipe cutter 48
Pipe-fitting tools 46
Pipe vise 47
wrench 48
Plastering trowel 209
Pliers 18
Plow, heavy-breaking 224
riding 140
walking 138
Plowing by tractor 145
importance of 137
mechanics of 138
Plows, jointer 144
Scotch 143
Plumb-bob and plumb-line 206
Plumbing, house 234
Pod-bit 25
Portable farm engine 94
Post-hole diggers 204
Poultry feeding trough 222
Power conveyor 121
Power, generating mechanical 75
Power post drill 38
Power transmission 120
Pulverizers 155
Pump, air pressure 107
centrifugal 105
mule 84
jack 109
jacks and speed jacks 111
rotary 103
suction 101
Punches 37
Quantity of water to use in irrigation 118
Racks, feeding 217
sheep feeding 219
Rafter grapple 173
Rasp 35
Rasps and files 36
Ratchet-brace 40
Refrigeration 123
Reservoir for supplying water to farm buildings 120
Revolving hayrake 163
Riding plow 140
Ripsaw 21
Rivets 53
Rivet set 54
Road drag, split-log 220
steel 225
Road work 146
Roller 156
Roll filing 63
Roof pitches 200
truss 199
Root pulper 130
Rotary pumps 103
Round barn, economy of 196
Rule of six, eight and ten 199
Sand bands 187
caps 188
Sanitary pig-pen 210
Saw, hack 45
Scotch plows 143
Screwdriver 23
ratchet 24
Seed house trucks 226
Septic tank 235
Set-screws 64
Shave horse 18
Shears 217
Sheep feeding rack 219
Sheepshank 212
Ship auger 26
Shoeing horses 71
knife 34
tool box 34
Shop, garage and implement shed 10
Shop tools 14
Slaughter house 198
Sliding field gate 205
Snips, sheet metal 25
Soil auger 204
tools 202
Soil, working the 137
Speed indicator 201
jacks 111
Split-log road drag 220
Spud 205
Stable helps 232
Stall for milch goats 232
Steam boiler and engine 90
Steel, forging 59
road drag 225
square 22
tools, making 60
Stepladder 216
Stock for dies 55
Stone-boat 179
Stump puller 131
Suction pumps 101
Sulkey, colt-breaking 192
S wrenches 44
Tapeline 15
Taper reamer 41
tap 56
Taps and dies 55
Tempering steel tools 60
Tongs 43
Tool box for field use 72
handy 72
Tool rack, blacksmith 34
Tools for fence-making 205
for woodworking 19
for working iron 42
pipe-fitting 46
soil 202
Tractor economy 146
farm 97
transmission gear 98
used in plowing 145
uses for, on farm 146
Tram points 40
Travoy 183
Treadmill, bull 81
Tree pruners 216
Trowel, brick 209
plastering 209
Trucks, barn 226
Try-square 22
Twist-drills 25, 41
U bolt in cement 57
Uses of electricity on farm 126
Valves, brass 236
Vise 38
Wagon-box irons 57
Wagon brakes 186
seat spring 187
Walking plow 138
Water-power 88
Water storage 100
Waterworks, farm 100
Well sweep 76
Wheelbarrow 180
Wheel hoe 162
Winches 79
Windmills 83
Wire splice 52
splicer 44
stretcher 77
Wooden clamp 18
roller 157
Wood-saw frames 129
Woodworking bench 16
tools 19
Working the soil 137
Wrecking bar 24
_DRAKE'S MECHANICAL BOOKS_
---------------------------------------------------+-------+--------
*Title | Style | Price
---------------------------------------------------+-------+--------
=Electrical Books=
Electrical Tables and Engineering Data *Lea. $1.50
Electrical Tables and Engineering Data *Cloth 1.00
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Motion Picture Operation *Cloth 1.00
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Alternating Current Cloth 1.00
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Modern Electric Illumination *Lea. 1.50
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Modern Electrical Construction *Lea. 1.50
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Electricians' Operating and Testing Manual *Lea. 1.50
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Drake's Electrical Dictionary Lea. 1.50
Drake's Electrical Dictionary Cloth 1.00
Electric Motors, Direct and Alternating *Lea. 1.50
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Electrical Measurements and Meter Testing Lea. 1.50
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Drake's Telephone Handbook Lea. 1.50
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Electricity Made Simple *Cloth 1.00
Easy Electrical Experiments *Cloth 1.00
Wireless Telegraph and Telephone Handbook Cloth 1.00
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Modern American Telephony Lea. 2.00
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Electric Railway Troubles Cloth 1.50
Electric Power Stations Cloth 2.50
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NOTE.--New Books and Revised Editions are marked*
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Practical Gas and Oil Engine Handbook *Lea. 1.50
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NOTE.--New Books and Revised Editions are marked*
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Farm Mechanics *Cloth 1.00
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Farm Engines and How to Run Them Cloth 1.00
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Complete Examination Questions and Answers for
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Locomotive Fireman's Boiler Instructor *Lea. 1.50
Locomotive Engine Breakdowns and How to Repair Them *Lea. 1.50
Operation of Trains and Station Work *Lea. 2.00
Construction and Maintenance of Railway Roadbed
and Track Lea. 2.00
First, Second and Third Year Standard Examination
Questions and Answers for Locomotive Firemen *Lea. 2.00
Complete Air Brake Examination Questions and
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Westinghouse Air Brake System Cloth 2.00
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Modern Carpentry. Vol. I Cloth 1.00
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The Steel Square. Two volumes Cloth 2.00
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+--------------------------------------------------------------------+
| TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES |
| |
| The text of the original work has been maintained, except as |
| mentioned below. |
| |
| Changed for consistency: screwdriver to screw-driver, pene to peen,|
| homemade to home-made, ballbearing to ball-bearing, horse-power to |
| horsepower, double-tree to doubletree, and eye-bolt to eyebolt. In |
| the Index, the following words have been changed to conform to the |
| text: sulkey to sulky, and re-inforced to reinforced. All |
| dimensions have been standardised to a x b (with a and b |
| representing two numbers). |
| |
| Typographical errors corrected: azotabacter to azotobacter (p. |
| 138), devise to device (p. 232), anarobic to anaerobic (p. 236), |
| and Hayford to Hayfork (Index). Some minor typographical errors |
| have been corrected silently. |
| |
| Page 158: "the so-called humid sections" should possibly be "the |
| so-called arid sections". |
| |
| The advertisements have been re-arranged to a single list per |
| subject. |
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