there is splendid shooting; in Kerry especially, where poaching is put
down with a heavy hand, there are plenty of opportunities for sport.
In most cases the hosts of the hotels have secured the shooting of many
thousands of acres in their vicinity.
When the weather is "hard," excellent sport can be had along the
southern districts.
The gentry most usually preserve their estates with great vigilance, but
they are generous in giving permission to bona-fide sportsmen.
[Illustration: CYCLING]
GENERAL HINTS
(FROM MECREDY'S ROAD BOOK OF IRELAND.)
June and September are the driest months in Ireland. Tourists will find
the Royal Irish Constabulary the best source of information, and they
cannot do better than inquire at the various police barracks on the way
for advice as to places of interest to be visited, and the condition of
the roads. In unfrequented country districts the footpaths as a rule may
be taken with impunity, but it is never absolutely safe to do so. It is
always well to enquire of other cyclists met _en route_. The roads are
very variable, some being grand and others very bad. Intercourse with
the peasantry will be found interesting and amusing. Nothing can exceed
their civility and courtesy; and for those who are not too particular it
will be found an excellent plan to lunch in their cottages, excellent
tea, home-made bread, butter and eggs being procurable for 1/-per head.
There is little use questioning them as to distances, however. They are
nearly always wrong, and in any case they calculate in Irish miles--11
Irish equal 14 English. The police, however, are reliable, and give the
distances in statute miles. Repairers are few and far between, but the
local blacksmiths are often clever and handy men. The by-roads are
generally better than the main roads, and the surface is better at the
edge than in the middle. The mountain roads are as a rule very good, and
not nearly so hilly as one would expect. The country people are rather
stupid about getting out of one's way, and live stock on the road are a
frequent source of danger, especially pigs, sheep, donkeys, and Kerry
cows. Mountain passes should be negotiated carefully, as mountain
torrents sometimes sweep away short stretches of otherwise excellent
roads, and one comes on these spots unexpectedly. The corners, too, are
excessively sharp, and steep pitches occur unexpectedly.
In most small Provincial towns the Hotels are not good, but in tourists'
districts, such as Kerry, they are really excellent and the charges are
reasonable. Where lodgings are required it is a good plan to ask the
local Head Constable for advice.
~CORK DISTRICT.~
Cork is an excellent centre for cycling. The roads are in fair order and
the inclines moderate. There is abundance of fine scenery, and notably
in the extreme south and south-west where there are some entrancing
tit-bits. Magnificent tracts of inland mountain scenery are to be found,
and many important historical and archæological ruins. There are hotels
nearly everywhere within easy reach, many of them very good, and in most
cases affording fair accommodation at reasonable cost.
~One Day Tours from Cork.~
No. 1.--To Queenstown, road 14 miles or rail 12 miles. Thence to East
Ferry, 5 miles, cross the Ballinacurragh River by ferry. Thence by road
to Midleton, 4 miles, back to Cork, road or rail, 12 miles. Fine views
of the River Lee, Lough Mahon, the lovely Harbour of Queenstown,
Ballinacurragh River, &c.
No. 2.--To Youghal, road or rail, 27 miles. Thence by road to Ardmore, 6
miles--a watering place with a ruined chapel where there are some
curious carvings in stone, and a fine and perfect specimen of the old
Irish round tower, Return same road.
No. 3.--To Midleton, 12 miles, road or rail. Thence to Cloyne, 6 miles,
where there is an ancient Cathedral still in use. Thence to Ballycotton,
6 miles, a small watering place. Back by Cloyne and Aghada, on
Queenstown Harbour, 12 miles. Thence by steamer to Queenstown, or across
the East Ferry by road to Queenstown, 6 miles. Back by road or rail, 12
miles.
Hotels at Midleton, Cloyne, and Ballycotton.
No. 4.--To Queenstown, road or rail, then by steamer, 20 minutes across
the harbour to Crosshaven. Thence by road, 2 miles, to Church Bay. Fine
view of mouth of the harbour and open Atlantic. Thence by Carrigaline
and Douglas, back to Cork, 12 miles.
Good hotels at Crosshaven and Church Bay.
No. 5.--Cork to Blarney, by the Valley of the Lee and Carrigrohane, 9
miles. Famous Castle of Blarney with the "Kissing Stone." The Groves of
Blarney round the Castle may be seen, also St. Ann's Hydropathic
establishment. Return by Rathpeacon and Blackpool to Cork, 6 miles.
No. 6.--Cork to Dunkettle, 3 miles, road or rail, thence along the
Glanmire River to Glanmire, 2 miles. Thence by Sallybrook and Kilcully,
back to Cork, 6 miles.
~Two Day Tours from Cork.~
No. 1.--Cork to Macroom, road or rail, 25 miles. Thence to Inchigeela,
10 miles, and Gougane Barra, 10 miles. Beautiful lake scenery, and the
hermitage at Gougane Barra; a chapel on the Holy Lake is well worth
seeing. The Pass of Keimaneigh is 3 miles further. From this point the
traveller can return to sleep at Inchigeela or Macroom, where, at both
places, there are good hotels; or may continue his journey to
Glengarriff, Kenmare, or Killarney. If returning to Cork from Macroom,
the journey may be made by Coachford and Dripsey, distance about 25
miles.
No. 2.--Cork to Bandon, 20 miles by rail or road. Thence to
Courtmacsherry and the Old Head of Kinsale, each about 7 miles by road.
The tourist can sleep at either place, and return to Cork by Kinsale and
Innishannon, or continue his journey to Bantry, 37-1/2 miles by road or
rail. Thence to Glengarriff, Killarney, &c.
~Tours for Three or more Days from Cork.~
No. 1.--Cork to Youghal, 28 miles by road or rail. Thence to Temple
Michael, 3 miles along left bank of the River Blackwater, through
Dromana to Cappoquin, 11 miles. From Cappoquin the Trappist Monastery of
Mount Melleray, 3-1/2 miles, can be visited. Returning to Cappoquin the
tourist can take either bank of the Blackwater, along a beautiful and
level road to Lismore, 3-1/2 miles. The distance from Lismore to Fermoy
is 16 miles by road or rail; the road along the Valley of the Blackwater
being very fine throughout, and most picturesque. At Lismore the
beautiful castle belonging to the Duke of Devonshire can be seen. The
tourist can return from Fermoy to Mallow 16 miles, and thence to Cork,
21 miles. Good hotels at Youghal, Lismore, Fermoy, and Mallow.
No. 2.--Two day tour, No. 1, can be extended to three or more days, by
proceeding from Inchigeela to Glengarriff, 23 miles, and Killarney, 39
miles. Good hotels at Inchigeela, Glengarriff, Kenmare, and Killarney.
Two day tour, No. 2, can be similarly extended to three or more days, by
continuing the journey from Bandon to Bantry, 37-1/2 miles. Thence 10
miles by road to Glengarriff, thence to Killarney, 39 miles. Good hotels
at Bantry, Glengarriff, Kenmare, and Killarney. Or from Kenmare, 20
miles, or from Glengarriff the tourist can ride to Parknasilla, 16 miles
from Kenmare, where there is an excellent modern hotel and some of the
loveliest scenery in Ireland.
~LIMERICK DISTRICT.~
To the cyclist on tour, Limerick and the surrounding districts offer
many scenic attractions in wood, lake, and river. The roads are not good
as a rule, owing in a great measure, to the fact that the city is the
centre of a large agricultural district. The hotels in the city are
good, and in the surrounding towns and villages the tourist will find
good accommodation in hotels and otherwise.
~One Day Tours from Limerick.~
No. 1.--Perhaps the easiest one day tour which the cyclist can enjoy
from Limerick, as his head quarters, is to Doonass Falls _via_ Clonlara.
Five miles thence by O'Brien's Bridge, 7 miles, to Killaloe, where an
excellent lunch can be had. The return home can be made by
Castleconnell, the popular resort of the devotees of "Izaak Walton,"
where an excellent tea can be had at the Shannon Hotel.
No. 2.--Castleconnell and Clare Glens, and lengthened visit to
Castleconnell to view the waterfalls, "The World's End"--a remarkably
fine reach of the River Shannon. There is much to interest the visitor
in the gigantic eel fishery, and here also is the renowned Enright,
whose fishing rods are used all over the world. The Clare Glen, situated
by the way in Limerick county, is not far from Castleconnell; and if
liberty is obtained beforehand, the Glenstal Demesne, seat of the
Barrington family, can be visited. Sir Charles Barrington, the present
baronet, has never yet refused permission to the cycling tourist to view
the charming scenery surrounding the Glenstal Castle.
No. 3.--Askeaton, 16-1/2 miles, splendid road, one of the best from
Limerick; famous old abbey to be visited, with excellent fishing on the
Deel, granted that the tourist has obtained the requisite permission.
No. 4.--Adare, 9 miles; roads pretty good. Mr. P. Fitzgerald, J.P.,
Agent to Lord Dunraven, should be written to beforehand for a permit to
visit the demesne, where some fine old ruins are in an excellent state
of preservation. The Manor House is a magnificent building, but
visitors are only allowed to enter when the family are away. This is
well known as the district which inspired Gerald Griffin to write one of
his famous poems. Lunch can be had at very moderate terms at the
Dunraven Arms Hotel. The demesne wall turns eastward to Croom. The name
of this village is derived from the old war cry of the Geraldines,
"Munster Branch "--_Crom-a-boo_. To Limerick, from Croom, _via_
Patrick's Well, there is a pretty good road, 10 miles.
~Two Days Tours from Limerick.~
Ballybunion. Good roads generally, but slightly up-hill when the Kingdom
is reached. This charming seaside resort is rapidly coming to rival
Kilkee. It has splendid bathing accommodation, and the coast scenery and
caves equal to those of any other watering place in Ireland. The visitor
for the first time makes his acquaintance with the Lartique, or "Single
Line," Railway--the only one in the United Kingdom--from Listowel to
Ballybunion, a distance of 8 miles.
Returning to Limerick, a digression can be made to Shanid Castle, near
Shanagolden. This towering mass of masonry, perched high on a
hill--three sides of which are precipitous--is almost ignored by
tourists. It was one of the strongholds of the Desmonds. The other spots
on the Shannon--homeward bound--are Glinn, where the hereditary Knight
of Glin has his seat, and where Gerald Griffin resided in his young
days, near the pretty little village of Loughill. Foynes and Foynes
Island, seat of Sir Aubrey de Vere, will repay a visit. Hotels are good
on this line, also roads.
No. 2.--Waterford and Tramore. Decent roads and accommodation, as good
as can be got once outside Limerick county, border at the Limerick
Junction, a distance of 20 miles from the Treaty Stone. Splendid views
of the Galtee ranges can be had, and on towards Clonmel the wooded
slopes of the minor ranges and hills are a delightful picture. If time
affords, the tourist can digress from the main road and visit the famous
Glen of Aherlow. Back to Tipperary for lunch, good hotels, and splendid
roads. Visit the Kickham monument, and then on to Clonmel. Excellent
accommodation to be had at Clonmel. Next day Waterford and Tramore, and
back.
~Tours for Three or more Days from Limerick.~
Ballybunion, Tarbert, Kilrush, Kilkee, Lisdoonvarna, from Ballybunion.
See "No. 1 Day Tours." Tarbert is only a few miles from Ballybunion.
There is a steamboat service across the Shannon estuary to Kilrush.
Thence to Kilkee by road, where first night out can be had. Next day to
Spanish Point, Milltownmalbay, Lisdoonvarna, to the famous "Spa"; home
_via_ Ennis, splendid roads.
No. 2.--Killaloe, Scariff, Portumna, and Upper Shannon. A most enjoyable
trip can be had from Killaloe. See "No. 1 Day Tour." There is a constant
steamboat service on Lough Derg, which will take a cyclist and his
machine, and land him at Scariff--on the Clare side--or Portumna,
"Galway." From either of these towns a tourist can have his chance of
the most diversified lake and river scenery to be had in the kingdom.
Without doubt the praises of Lough Derg and the Upper Shannon have not
been sung sufficiently. From Portumna to Dromineer, on the Tipperary
shore, by lake steamer, thence to Nenagh on bike; splendid roads home to
Limerick, 27 miles.
~KILLARNEY DISTRICT.~
Killarney is an ideal centre for the cyclist. Good roads proceed in
every direction, and mounted on his favourite machine the wheelman will
be able to discover and investigate scenic treasures unknown to the
ordinary tourist.
~One Day Tours from Killarney.~
No. 1.--Killarney to Gap of Dunloe, 10 miles; Owenreagh Glen, 18 miles;
Windy Gap, 30 miles. Killarney, total, 36 miles. Care should be taken to
keep on the proper road through the Glen; there are many crossings. Any
of the local folk will point out the road.
No. 2.--Killarney to Torc Waterfall, 3 miles; return to Muckross Hotel,
4 miles; enter demesne at Dinis, 10 miles; on to Kenmare road and home
to Killarney, 17 miles. The road through Muckross Demesne is in some
places dangerous owing to its steep and winding character.
No. 3.--Killarney to Ross Castle, 1-1/2 miles; through demesne to
Library Point, 2-1/2 miles. Back through Ross Island and demesne to
Mahony's Point, 9-1/2 miles; Killarney, 12-1/2 miles. This road is
perfectly safe and good, except two descents in Ross Island. Returning
from Mahony's Point to Killarney by Aghadoe, about 15 miles, splendid
view of Lower Lake and mountains can be had from the old ruins of
Aghadoe.
No. 4.--Killarney to Glenflesk _via_ Lough Guittane. Visit Robbers' Den,
9 miles, home _via_ Headford and Barraduff, 26 miles. Roads good,
scenery wild and romantic. There are many short and beautiful trips
which can be made in and about the neighbourhood.
~Two Day Tours from Killarney.~
No. 1.--Killarney to Windy Gap, 16 miles; thence to Parknasilla across
mountain. Total, 30 miles. Remain for night at Southern Hotel,
Parknasilla. Parknasilla to Kenmare, 14 miles, and back to Killarney
_via_ Kilgarvan. Total, 35 miles. Roads fairly good, but in places very
steep, so that riders must keep a careful watch.
No. 2.--Killarney to Beaufort, 6 miles; thence to Glencar, 19 miles, and
on to Caragh Lake Hotel, 27 miles. Remain at Caragh Lake Hotel for the
night. Return to Killarney _via_ Windy Gap and Gerah Cross. There are
some sharp turns and steep descents requiring care.
~Tours for Three or more Days from Killarney.~
No. 1.--Killarney to Kenmare, 20 miles. Thence by Glengarriff, 40 miles,
to Macroom, _via_ Inchigeela, Pass of Keimaneigh to Millstreet, and back
to Killarney. Hotels at Kenmare (Southern Hotel), Glengarriff,
Inchigeela, Macroom, and Millstreet.
No. 2.--Killarney to Killorglin. Caragh Lake, Cahirciveen, visit
Valentia, Waterville, Parknasilla, Kenmare, and back to Killarney by
either rail or road.
~WATERFORD DISTRICT.~
Waterford can be recommended as a cycling centre, as the scenery in many
districts of the South-east of Ireland is beautiful in the extreme, and
can compare favourably with any in the country, and the roads are first
rate. The hotels, too, are generally very good, and have been improved
wonderfully of late, and the tariffs have been so arranged by the
South-eastern Branch of the Irish Cyclist Association, that all
requirements of the most slender purse can be satisfactorily arranged.
Below we sketch out a few very enjoyable Tours which can be made, taking
Waterford as the starting point:--
~First Tour from Waterford.~
Leaving-Waterford by the Newtown-road, we pass the house in which Lord
Roberts spent his early days, and where his father and mother lived for
many years. This is actually in the Borough and, from the grounds
surrounding it, a capital view of the river and part of the City can be
had. After passing by Newtown we keep along to the left until Parkswood
is reached, when we run under a bridge and up a hill to Checkpoint, and
here a magnificent view can be obtained. From the hill overlooking this
pretty little village seven counties can be seen. Dunbrody Abbey, one of
the most famous ecclesiastical ruins in Ireland, is situated immediately
opposite on the other side of the river. Duncannon Fort, a short
distance from here, comes into view, and we are enabled to see the
joining of the three rivers--Suir, Nore, and Barrow. We pass from
Checkpoint, and we reach Passage, a famous fishing station since the
herring industry has become so prosperous in this part of Ireland. A
little further on is Woodstown, and right opposite on the far side of
the river can be seen Duncannon Fort, a fortified place in the days of
old. Turning to the right by Ballyglan, we mount a steep incline, and we
then come in view of Hook Tower, a beacon light which is said to be the
oldest in the kingdom. Dunmore, about five miles from Woodstown, is one
of the most picturesque, beautiful, and delightful resorts in the whole
of Ireland. Here there is a magnificent pier, and boating and fishing
can be enjoyed to one's heart's content. Wheeling back in the Waterford
direction we make for Tramore, ten miles away. It is beautifully
situated, and the visitor here can spend several hours in viewing the
most attractive scenery. Close to the town are the Golf Links and the
Race Course.
From Tramore to Waterford the run is over a splendid level road, and the
distance seven miles.
The full distance of this run is 33 miles, and at all the principal
points capital hotel accommodation can be had.
~Tour Two, from Waterford.~
The first part of this run is to Passage. At the Half-way House take the
turn over the bridge, up the hill and down a steep decline to Passage.
At the latter place the ordinary ferryboat can be taken to Ballyhack,
which is directly opposite. The run from Ballyhack to Duncannon is over
a fairly surfaced road. At the latter place M'Gonnigal's hotel is well
appointed. From Duncannon the run to the famous Hook Tower is about
seven miles, and the surface of the road generally is very good. Along
this run a splendid view of the Harbour can be obtained, and on the way
there are several places of interest--Loftus Hall, the Irish seat of the
Marquis of Ely, stands on the edge of the river unprotected by a single
tree. It was modernised within the last 25 years, and is now a
splendidly appointed mansion. Bag-an-Bun, a little distance off, will
well repay a visit--the coast line at this point being the principal
attraction. From Hook we run to Fethard, 6 miles to the left, and here
a very pleasant hour can be spent. Tintern Abbey is the next point to be
visited. This is one of the most famous Abbeys in the country. From
Tintern to Dunbrody the distance is 8 miles, and here we can spend a
considerable time in viewing the great historical ruin, said to be one
of the finest in the whole of Ireland. Leaving Dunbrody we come to the
ferry of Ballinlaw, and crossing here ride by Snow-hill and Bellview
into Waterford. The full distance of this ride is 41 miles.
~Tour Three from Waterford.~
Proceeding up the Cork road we ride up Ballyaneeshagh Hill, and on the
left see Butlerstown Castle, an ancient building: which, in the days of
Cromwell, held out for sometime against his forces. At the Sweep we turn
round to the right and run to the bottom of the hill. A little way from
the end of the hill the right turn is to be taken again to Kilmeaden, 8
miles. The ride then is to Portlaw four miles away. Some fifty years ago
this town was the seat of a great cotton industry. It has since fallen
into decay, and the place looks like Goldsmith's "Deserted Village."
Just outside the town is the magnificent demesne of Curraghmore, said to
be the finest in the three kingdoms. The variety of scenery here is
almost unsurpassed. Curraghmore is the property of the Marquis of
Waterford. It is one of the great points of vantage to tourists and
pic-nic parties. Passing through the demesne we come to the house
itself, a modern and rather unpretentious structure. The court-yard is,
however, very large, and is said to be capable of accommodating close
upon 100 horses. Clonegam Church, where Lord William Beresford, uncle to
the present Marquis of Waterford, was laid to rest, can be seen on the
right glistening in the trees on the hill side. Through Curraghmore we
ride to Clonea, about 5 miles further on, and then to the foot of the
Comeragh Mountains, which occupy a centre of the county, and which are
to be seen from all parts, as well as from a considerable portion of
Tipperary. The greatest natural curiosity in this range is the
appearance and site of an almost circular lake, by name Coomshinawin.
From Coomshinawin to Kilmacthomas the distance is about 8 miles.
Kilmacthomas Woollen Factory may be visited, and a good hotel
accommodation can be had at Walsh's. From Kilmacthomas to Waterford is
16-1/2 miles over a good road, the full distance being 45 miles.
~Tour Four, from Waterford.~
Our next tour will be from Waterford, _via_ the Sweep, to Knockaderry, 9
miles away. At the latter place there is a very fine lake which amply
supplies the City. Leaving Knockaderry we reach Dunhill, close to which
place is the Castle of Donile, still distinguished for its peculiar and
romantic situation, and in ancient times the property of De-La-Poer,
from whom the present Marquis is descended. The village of Annestown,
distant about one mile, is on the sea coast, and from it a magnificent
view of rock and ocean scenery can be had. The run from Annestown to
Tramore is over a beautiful road, and many pretty views of the coast can
be seen. The spin to Waterford completes this tour, which is one of
nearly thirty miles.
~Two Day Tours from Waterford. No. 1.~
Waterford, Dunmore, Annestown, Bonmahon, Stradbally, and Dungarvan.
FIRST DAY.
This is rather a long run of 47 miles, but as the roads are generally
good and the scenery delightful it should be most enjoyable to the
Cyclist who may feel in good form. We have already spoken of Annestown.
From Annestown to Bonmahon the distance is over 5 miles. The road is
very hilly, but the surface is splendid. At Bonmahon the once famous
Knockmahon Mines are situated. These mines were the most valuable in the
country about fifty years ago, but when the value of the metal (copper)
fell operations were discontinued. Stradbally, 4 miles further on, is a
delightful little village, said to be the most health-restoring place on
the south-eastern coast. Here Whelan's Hotel is recommended. Dungarvan
is 8 miles further on, and the road by the sea is well surfaced and very
picturesque. At Dungarvan Lawlor's Hotel will be found very comfortable.
SECOND DAY.
A good run can be taken through Ardmore, Youghal, Lismore, and
Cappoquin, part of which tour embraces the delightful Valley of the
Blackwater. This complete run will tot about 50 miles.
At Ardmore a very comfortable hotel is kept by Miss Prendergast. At
Youghal, the Greenpark Hotel is a capital one. In Lismore, the
Devonshire Arms and Blackwater Vale Hotels are recommended; and Kenny's
at Cappoquin is also a good one.
~Two Day Tours from Waterford. No. 2.~
FIRST DAY.
Piltown to Curraghmore, round by Coomshinawin. This complete run will be
about 40 miles. The roads generally are capital, and the scenery as fine
as can be seen in this part of the country.
SECOND DAY.
From Dungarvan, round by Ballymacarbery, Newcastle, Ardfinan, Clogheen,
Melleray Abbey, to Dungarvan. This ride runs close upon 60 miles, and
to undertake it the tourist must have been in cycling form for a
considerable time. The roads, however, are generally very good.
Ballymacarbery is 15 miles from Dungarvan; Ardfinan, about 26; then from
Ardfinan to Clogheen the ride is 6 miles, and from that to Melleray
about 13. At Melleray, from the Abbey, a grand view can be had of some
of the most beautiful scenery in the whole of the county.