But the great changes in religious and intellectual thought

OLD HOUSES IN HOLLAND

TEXT AND ILLUSTRATIONS

BY SYDNEY R. JONES, WITH

SOME ADDITIONAL PLATES IN

COLOUR AFTER OTHER ARTISTS

Edited by Charles Holme.

MCMXIII

"THE STUDIO" LTD.

LONDON, PARIS, NEW YORK

PREFATORY NOTE

The Editor desires to express his indebtedness to the following, who

have rendered valuable assistance in the preparation of this volume:

Mr. A. Pit, Director of the Nederlandsch Museum voor Geschiedenis

en Kunst, and other officials of the Rijks Museum, Amsterdam;

Messrs. P. C. J. A. Boeles and D. Draaisma, of the Friesch Museum,

Leeuwarden; Dr. B. van Rijswijk, Secretary of the Vereeniging

Oud-Dordrecht; Mr. W. Polman Kruseman, Secretary of the Zeeuwsch

Genootschap der Wetenschappen, Middelburg; and the Directors of the

British Museum, the Victoria and Albert Museum, the National Gallery,

and the Wallace Collection, London.

ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR

After--

Pieter de Hooch "Interior of a Dutch House"

Frontispiece

,, ,, ,, "Interior with Woman peeling Apples" Opposite page 16

,, ,, ,, "Dutch Interior" ,, ,, 44

Johannes Vermeer "The Letter" ,, ,, 66

Catherine Bisschop-Swift "The Mirror" ,, ,, 80

Sydney R. Jones "Nijmegen, Gelderland" ,, ,, 98

Baron J. A. Hendrik Leys "Seventeenth-Century Dutch

Interior" ,, ,, 130

Sydney R. Jones "Hindeloopen Room at the Frisian

Museum, Leeuwarden" ,, ,, 140

Enamelled Earthenware Tiles (early 18th century)

Opposite pages 136 & 138

Delft Dishes (18th century) ,, ,, 144 & 146

CONTENTS.

PAGE

Introduction 1

Illustrations:--

Breda, North Brabant 5

Monnikendam, North Holland 7

Veere, Zeeland 9

Nijmegen, Gelderland (dated 1544) 11

Dordrecht, South Holland 13

Leiden, Rhijnland (dated 1612) 15

Haarlem, North Holland 17

Brigdamme, Zeeland 18

I.--The Development of Domestic Architecture 19

Illustrations:--

Groningen (1509) 21

Boxmeer, North Brabant 22

Gorinchem (Gorcum), South Holland 23

Breda, North Brabant 24

Middelburg, Zeeland 25

Franeker, Friesland 26

Dordrecht, South Holland 27

Dordrecht (dated 1702) 28

Haarlem, North Holland 29

Spaarwoude, North Holland 30

St. Laurens, near Middelburg, Zeeland 31

Haarlem, North Holland 32

Alkmaar, North Holland (dated 1609) 33

Hoorn, North Holland (dated 1612) 34

Middelburg, Zeeland 35

Hoorn, North Holland 36

,, ,, ,, 37

Woudrichem, North Brabant 38

Leiden, Rhijnland 39

Middelburg, Zeeland 40

Nijmegen, Gelderland (dated 1606) 41

Zutphen, Gelderland 42

,, ,, (dated 1547) 43

Veere, Zeeland 44

Haarlem, North Holland 45

Delft, South Holland 46

Haarlem, North Holland (dated 1637) 47

Alkmaar, North Holland (dated 1673) 48

Franeker, Friesland (dated 1634) 49

Corbel from Dordrecht 50

Mosaic brick and stonework from Dordrecht 50

Dordrecht, South Holland (dated 1608) 51

Workum, Friesland (dated 1663) 52

Arnhem, Gelderland (dated 1642) 53

Amsterdam--Rembrandt's House (dated 1606) 54

Zwolle, Overijssel--The Guild Hall (dated 1571) 55

Vlissingen (Flushing), Zeeland (dated 1614) 56

Dordrecht, South Holland (dated 1626) 57

Kampen, Overijssel (dated 1631) 58

,, ,, (dated on dormers 1634, 1626, 1730, 1630

and 1619) 59

Groningen--The "Goudkantoor" (dated 1635) 60

Groningen (1661) 61

Franeker, Friesland (dated 1662) 62

's Hertogenbosch, North Brabant (dated 1671) 63

Iron Wall-tie from Alkmaar 64

Alkmaar, North Holland (dated 1672) 65

's Gravenhage (The Hague), South Holland--"T'Goutsmits Keur

Huijs" 66

Velsen, North Holland 67

Spaarwoude, North Holland 68

Zutphen, Gelderland 69

Halfweg, North Holland 70

,, ,, ,, --showing construction of farmhouse 70

Spaarndam, North Holland 71

Schooten, North Holland 72

The Ferry House, near Gennep, North Brabant 73

Beek, Gelderland 74

Brigdamme, Zeeland (dated 1622) 75

Beek, Gelderland 76

Bloemendaal, North Holland 77

Broek, North Holland 78

,, ,, ,, 79

Well at Beugen, North Brabant 80

Beek, Gelderland 81

Bridge at Zuiderwoude, North Holland (dated 1799) 82

II.--Exterior Features--Doors, Windows, Gables and Ornaments 83

Illustrations:--

Woudrichem, North Brabant (dated 1611) 85

Leeuwarden, Friesland 86

Delft, South Holland 87

,, ,, ,, (dated 1547) 88

Haarlem, North Holland (dated 1632) 89

Leeuwarden, Friesland (dated 1675) 89

Leiden, Rhijnland (dated 1612) 89

,, ,, (dated 1615) 90

Vlissingen (Flushing), Zeeland 91

Marssum, Friesland (dated 1713) 92

Kampen, Overijssel (dated 1665) 93

Arnhem, Gelderland 94

Wooden Door, with iron fittings, from Dordrecht 95

,, ,, with carved lintel, from Haarlem 95

Leiden, Rhijnland (dated 1655) 96

Veere, Zeeland--The "Scotch House" 97

Wooden Window-frame, with iron fittings and lead glazing, from

Dordrecht 98

Window Shutter from Velsen 98

,, ,, ,, Nijmegen 99

,, ,, ,, Leiden 99

,, ,, ,, Dordrecht 99

,, ,, ,, Haarlem 100

,, ,, ,, Monnikendam 100

Zwolle, Overijssel 101

Kampen, Overijssel (dated 1626) 102

,, ,, (dated 1634) 102

Marssum, Friesland 102

Gorinchem (Gorcum), South Holland (dated 1566) 103

Kampen, Overijssel 104

Vlissingen (Flushing), Zeeland 105

Monnikendam, North Holland 106

Haarlem, North Holland 106

Dordrecht, South Holland (dated 1523) 107

Arnhem, Gelderland 108

Haarlem, North Holland 109

Leiden, Rhijnland 109

Amsterdam, North Holland 110

Wood details from Gelderland and South Holland 111

Zutphen, Gelderland 112

Hoorn, North Holland 112

Franeker, Friesland (curved gables dated 1573) 113

Carved stone lettering from Haarlem 114

,, ,, panel from Franeker 114

,, ,, ,, ,, Zutphen (dated 1615) 115

,, ,, ,, ,, Sneek 115

,, ,, ,, ,, Haarlem 115

,, ,, ,, ,, Workum 115

,, ,, ,, ,, Middelburg (house dated 1590) 116

,, ,, ,, ,, Haarlem 116

Woudrichem, North Brabant 117

Brick and Stone Mosaic from Zwolle 118

,, ,, ,, ,, Nijmegen 118

,, ,, ,, ,, Woudrichem 118

Zwolle, Overijssel (dated 1609) 119

Detail of Diaper-work from Franeker 120

Workum, Friesland 120

Iron Wall-ties 121

,, Date-sign from St. Anna, near Nijmegen 122

,, Wall-tie from Nijmegen 122

,, Weather-vane from Broek 122

,, Terminal from Middelburg 122

Lead Spout-heads from Zutphen 122

Oval Window with Stanchion-bar, from Leiden 122

Iron Wall-tie from Beugen 122

,, Door-furniture from Middelburg 123

,, Door-knocker 123

,, Weather-vane from Hees 124

Lead Finials from Hoorn 124

III.--Interiors and Decoration 125

Illustrations:--

Brass Candelabrum from Haarlem 127

Seventeenth-century Room from Dordrecht, South Holland 128

,, ,, ,, Leeuwarden, Friesland 129

Fireplace in the Bricklayers' Guild, Amsterdam 130

,, from Maastricht, Limburg (dated 1510) 131

Cast-iron Fireback from Leiden 132

Cast-iron Fireback from Nijmegen 132

Fireplace from Middelburg, Zeeland 133

Cast-iron Fireback from Middelburg 134

,, ,, ,, Jisp 134

Fireplace from The Westerwold, Groningen 135

Interior of a wooden house at Marken, North Holland 136

Brass Chimney-crane from Leeuwarden 136

Hindeloopen Room at the Frisian Museum, Leeuwarden 137

Carved Oak Panel from Zwolle (16th century) 138

Iron Hangers, Fire-irons and Fire-standard 139

Oak Panelling from Leiden 140

Hindeloopen Room at the Frisian Museum, Leeuwarden 141

Carved Door from Groningen (17th century) 142

Iron Lock-plate (16th century) 143

,, ,, (dated 1587) 143

,, Lock and Bolt 143

,, Door-handle and Escutcheon 143

Carved Door of Wall-cupboard, with pierced and engraved iron

fittings 143

Wall-cupboard with iron lock and hinges (16th century) 144

Carved Table from Edam 145

,, Cabinet from Haarlem 145

Table from Amsterdam 146

Wrought-iron Stair-Railing from Zierikzee 146

Brass Warming-pan (dated 1602) 147

Wickerwork Coffer with brass mounts (18th century) 147

Brass Fire-side set (18th century) 147

,, Candlestick ( ,, ,, ) 148

,, Tea-caddy ( ,, ,, ) 148

,, Pastille-burner 148

,, Foot-warmer (dated 1733) 148

,, Lantern (18th century) 148

Corridor in "St. Pietershofje," Hoorn, North Holland 149

Tiled Fireplace from Volendam, North Holland 150

,, ,, ,, Marken, North Holland 151

Interior of a wooden house at Marken, North Holland 152

INTRODUCTION

It is in the old towns of Holland that the architectural expression

of the Dutch people is to be sought. Theirs was an intimate and human

architecture, concerned with everyday events, and it developed out of

the civil and domestic life. Many of the towns continue to be busy

and prosperous, and new buildings here and there crowd in upon the

picturesque groups of houses that for centuries have clustered round

the great churches and market-places: in others, the active days of

commerce are over, the merchants come no more, and the streets and

waterways are quiet. But all Dutch towns having any pretension to

age possess, to a wonderful degree, what may be termed an old-world

atmosphere. Much of their charm, it is true, is due to the rivers and

canals that encircle and intersect them in all directions, imparting

a sense of quaintness and novelty; but it is the extraordinary number

of old buildings still existing, unchanged in form since the days

when they were erected and mellowed by ages of sun and rain, that ever

appeal to the eye and imagination. The fantastic gables and red roofs,

above which rise slender spires and belfries surmounted by leaden

flèches and wrought vanes, together with the waterways and canal life,

the windmills, and changing skies, are as characteristic now as when

the masters of the great Dutch School of painting were living and

working. Such scenes were to them inspiration; to picture the intimate

events associated was their delight. If the painters have gone--and

with them the arquebusiers and governors and burgomasters--the gables,

the sunlit courts, and many other familiar features remain.

The peculiar geographical conditions that have always existed in

Holland have affected in no small degree the development of the land

and the temperament of the people. Most of the country is below sea

level. Behind the dunes and dykes the sea threatens inundation; the

fear of accident by flood has kept the nation watchful and in perpetual

war with its ancient enemy. The influence of this natural check has

been far-reaching. It has produced the system of canals, determined

the character of the landscape, made accordant life and work, method,

regularity and order, and brought philosophy and fortitude to the

national mind. In the domain of building, as in other spheres, water

has been a powerful underlying agent affecting the evolution of style,

just as the mountains, forests and deserts of other countries have

imparted distinction to architecture.

Side by side with the external conditions imposed by Nature, conditions

that, if accepted, might well be expected to have produced an attitude

of extreme lack of initiative in those living amongst them, the Dutch

have ever been an enterprising people. The same spirit that defied

and conquered the inroads of the sea characterised their dealings

in the domain of commerce. Trade was to them the great business of

life. From very early times, and continuing for a long period, the

prosperity of the Low Countries was foremost in Europe. The towns

became centres of busy and pulsative life, the homes of virile civil

and domestic communities. Many old buildings still existing, town

halls, weigh houses, trade and guild halls, warehouses and merchants'

premises, bear witness to those strenuous days. An architecture in

close touch with the events of the times developed through, and by

reason of the successes achieved by industry and sustained advances

of conquest and colonization.

The phase of domestic art which is reviewed in this volume was

essentially the expression of a nation urgently concerned with the

material, matter-of-fact side of everyday life, and bore close kindred

to its needs, its aspirations and its achievements; it was corporeal

rather than spiritual in aspect, reflective of the market-place, the

fireside and the home. And while the continuous building tradition

of certain other countries was allied to ecclesiasticism, or was a

movement instigated by the aristocracy, in Holland it was democratic

in general trend, an art bound up in the interests of the people and

existing for their good and welfare. It was urban rather than rural in

its principles. Unlike the English growth, where the native building

art developed vigorously and lingered longest in the countryside--as

many an old village, manor-house or farm will demonstrate--the

equivalent vernacular Dutch development was pre-eminently of the

towns, and trade was the influence that gave it life. In a country

notable for its manufactures and commercial activities men congregated

together for mutual gain. A sturdy race they were, unimpressionable,

but kindly and charitable, and their comfortable homes were in keeping

with their temperament.

To better appreciate the course of architectural development,

it will be well to briefly cite the main circumstances connected

with these towns and with the country's history. Records of Dutch

towns prior to the twelfth century are scanty, although at that time

orderly government had begun to develop. Then followed the municipal

charters, many dating from the thirteenth century. These charters

were granted by the feudal lords to the townspeople and secured to

them certain rights and protection in return for taxation and levies;

justice was administered by various governing bodies and magistrates,

and the municipal finances were properly supervised. There thus

grew up a strong communal movement which was steadily developed

and strengthened. Then it was that the cities began their era

of great prosperity and each became practically self-governing

and semi-independent. Revenue was derived from the river commerce

and markets, over-sea trading, and from the industries which were

fostered. So powerful did they become, so energetic was their municipal

life, so well organised their trade, that these cities came to be

reckoned, together with the neighbouring towns of Flanders, the most

prosperous and wealthy in the world. As time went on the chief cities

became members of the Hanseatic League, which influential association

embraced trading colonies in places as far apart as London, Visby on

the island of Gotland, Novgorod the Great in Russia, Hamburg, Amsterdam

and Kampen on the Zuider Zee. Through the impetus of this remarkable

movement, the long-continued commercial relations between England and

Holland were established. About the middle of the thirteenth century

Hanse merchants settled in London, obtained privileges from Henry III.,

founded the Steelyard, and there developed a flourishing trade. The

intercourse between the two countries was very considerable, and it

was of the utmost importance to the Netherlands that nothing should

happen to weaken their good relations with England. For England

was then the principal wool-producing country of Europe, the only

place, in fact, able to supply it in large quantities, and the men

of the Low Countries, famed above all for their skill as weavers

and depending upon the woollen industry for their greatest wealth,

were eager buyers of English wool in the raw state. In the fifteenth

century, through dissension and war, the cities of Holland were ejected

from the Hanseatic League; but the Dutch, with their fine ships and

business acumen, continued to prosper and carried their conquests by

trade into far-distant lands.

It was while at the height of their material success that the provinces

of Holland came under the dominion of the house of Burgundy. The

peculiar independent constitution of the cities promoted rivalry

between them, rather than a common national interest which would

have been best for the preservation of their just rights. They were

heavily taxed and oppressed and were continually at variance with the

ruling power, fighting for the redress of their grievances. By the

first half of the sixteenth century the kingdom of the Netherlands

had passed to the Emperor Charles V., King of Spain, and Philip,

his son, inherited his father's throne. He thereby became monarch

of vast territories. Philip determined to utterly subjugate the

provinces and carried out a policy of relentless persecution. The

people rebelled, brutal punishment followed, and they became victims of

the worst excesses of the Inquisition. Deeds of cruelty, tyranny and

murder, almost unparalleled in history, were enacted. In those dark

days arose that great champion of the people, "William the Silent,"

Prince of Orange, the "father of his fatherland." Intent on defending

the liberties of the nation, he gathered around him a company of

gallant spirits, and, principally at his own expense, commenced what

at first appeared to be a hopeless struggle. But early victories,

hardly won, roused a cowed populace to action. The nation embarked

upon the memorable Eighty Years' War, which resulted in the Spanish

yoke being overthrown and the founding of the Dutch Republic. William

was basely assassinated at Delft in 1584, and Maurice, his second

son, succeeded him as Stadtholder. He was ambitious, shrewd, and

skilled in the arts of war, and under his rule, and that of his

brother Frederick Henry, who succeeded him in 1625, the fortunes of

the Dutch gradually rose high. Through times of trial and suffering,

hardships endured and conquests won, they emerged valorous and strong,

a nation of heroes. Triumphs of arms by land and sea, successes of

the merchant fleets and navigators who explored remote parts of the

world, the founding of colonies, and ingenuity on the part of the

workers in home manufactures, characterised a notable period of great

prosperity; the Dutch became supreme in trade, chief rulers of the

sea, and accumulated vast wealth. As the seventeenth century advanced

commercial welfare continued to increase. Admirals Tromp and De Ruyter

swept the seas, gaining brilliant naval victories; in 1667 the safety

of London itself was threatened by the appearance of the Dutch fleet

in the Thames. But the mastery of the sea eventually passed to England

and from that time the fortunes of the Dutch declined. The election

of William III.--who had married Princess Mary, daughter of the Duke

of York--to the English throne in 1689 marked the close of Holland's

greatest days.

Early Dutch secular architecture is in the spirit of the late

Gothic style. The most valuable monuments of that period are the

civic buildings which herald a time when public life--as opposed to

ecclesiastical--assumed an importance and dignity capable of being

symbolized in brick and stone; when power acquired by trade found

expression in its own distinctive forms, and the wealthy burghers of

the towns erected municipal buildings which stand for all time as the

embodiment of their ideals. Such is the Town Hall at Middelburg by

Ant. Keldermans the Younger, one of that famous family of architects

of Malines. It is a stone erection of fine proportions, enriched with a

wealth of detail, sculptured figures, sunk panelling and many turrets;

tiers of dormers break up the roof surface and the whole is surmounted

by a noble and boldly conceived tower. At Veere, not far distant,

is a smaller example (opposite) built in 1474 by another member of

the Keldermans family. While owning some similarity to its fellow

at Middelburg, the treatment is simpler, but the proportions are

exquisite, and the peculiar grace of the belfry is outstanding. The

characteristic richness of surface decoration which was then common

may also be seen on the sandstone façade of the "Gemeenlandshuis"

at Delft, with its elaborate traceries and parapet belonging to the

early sixteenth century. The aforementioned are stone buildings

and betray the influence of French Gothic, but the especially

individual Netherlandish interpretation of Gothic was developed in

the brick architecture. Brickwork was much employed and the nature

of the material--not so responsive as stone in the hands of the

craftsmen--limited the possibilities of ornamental treatment. Detail

had to be simplified and adapted to the means available for carrying

it out; the example from Nijmegen (p. 11), dated 1544, furnishes an

instance of how it was handled. It is in this early brickwork that the

germs of the Dutch transitional Renaissance style are to be traced;

its root principles were derived not only from the public buildings,

but from the churches also--vast piles whose bold masses and ornaments

were logically developed out of the material, and whose millions of

little bricks, jointed together, stand as impressive memorials of

patient labour.

Mediæval domestic work followed in the wake of the civic. Not many

examples remain. Of those that have survived most belong to the late

fifteenth or the first half of the sixteenth century. The current

forms of the period were employed--panelling and projecting surface

decoration, more often in brickwork than stone; arched window-heads

ornamented with tracery; circular brick turrets surmounted by conical

roofs; stepped gables having pinnacles rising from the copings;

steep roofs pierced by dormers; and the somewhat florid, rich, but

carefully wrought detail.

In contrast to the scarcity of Gothic domestic buildings, those

of the Transitional period--from Gothic to Renaissance--are very

numerous. Many examples are to be found in the old towns where rows

of houses, much out of the perpendicular, rise from the canalsides

and paved roadways. They are narrow and very high and are surmounted

by gables which are often of fantastic shape and curious outline,

picturesque from the draughtsman's point of view and full of subject

for the painter. Strange though it now seems, and quite beyond

reasonable explanation, the greatest art movement that Holland has

ever known flourished at the close of those troublous times when she

was at war with Spain. It was then that the painters, with startling

suddenness, came into their full powers, and Hals, Rembrandt, Van der

Helst, Gerard Dou, Paul Potter, Jan Steen, Ruysdael and De Hooch, with

a host of brilliant companions, followed in quick succession. They

created a new art, a school of painting with original conceptive

views and unrivalled executive skill. Contemporaneously with this

artistic activity developed the peculiarly specific Dutch style of

domestic architecture. Existing examples prove how energetically the

building craft was then carried on, and show how its characteristics

were matured during the closing years of the sixteenth century and

onwards through the century following. Many of the Town Halls and

Weigh Houses, which set the fashion for the private dwellings, are of

this time; Leiden 1598, Haarlem 1602, Nijmegen 1612, Bolsward 1614,

Workum 1650, and numerous others.

It was in the sixteenth century that the influence of the Renaissance

gained ground in Holland, and with it came new canons and new impulses,

revived interest in classical literature and art. And in connection

with it, it is significant to note that Erasmus, one of the most

distinguished of the Humanists, was born at Rotterdam in 1466;

during a life of much travel and varied residence he was often in

the Low Countries, prosecuting his own self-culture and advocating

his doctrines.

The Transitional period lasted long and the buildings associated with

it in many ways resemble those of England, erected in the style known

as Elizabethan. The real significance of the revolutionary Renaissance

art was not grasped or understood. The Gothic form of house long held

its own and to it was added the heavy Dutch interpretation of the newer

style, a rendering showing French rather than Italian feeling. But

nevertheless, however well or ill applied, the use of Classic motifs

in architecture became a firmly-established and general practice.

But the great changes in religious and intellectual thought that

transpired during the sixteenth century did not so quickly influence

the domain of architecture as might be supposed. No sudden breach

with the inherited style occurred, although the ancient life and

faith were passing. The Gothic tradition, which had been handed

down from generation to generation, continued on. The national

temperament was opposed to innovation, and the Dutch people clung to

that which had been evolved through long years of experiment; they

were unwilling to give up those forms that had been satisfying to

their forefathers. So the new fashion in architecture was at first

but tardily accepted and made little headway against the olden

practices. Early tentative efforts were confined to novelties of

detail introduced in gable ornaments, window-heads and doorways; the

traditional forms of building remained unaltered, and fresh types of

ornament were simply added to them for no very definite or intelligent

reason. As time went on the Renaissance influence gradually became

more established, but there was evidently no unanimity of opinion on

the merits of it. Some looked upon it with favour; others viewed it

with suspicion and preferred to keep to that which had served so well

for preceding generations. As a consequence, the development was not

uniform throughout the country. Thus a house at Alkmaar, bearing the

late date of 1673, has arched window-heads and step gable terminated

with a pointed arch quite in the Gothic manner; while a façade erected

at Zwolle one hundred and two years earlier unmistakably betrays its

Classic origin by the details with which it is adorned.

After a changeful period, during which the architectural impulses

were halting between the acceptance of the new and the retention of

the old, men who directed public taste eventually adopted what they

understood to be the Renaissance ideas. Behind them was a strong tide

of inherited tradition which continued to flow on. To it they brought

their own interpretation of the new movement, and the two forces ran

side by side for many years.

Foremost among the earlier architects who turned to classicism for

fresh inspiration were Lieven de Key, Hendrik de Keyzer and Cornelius

Danckerts. Hendrik de Keyzer was born at Utrecht in 1565 and died at

Amsterdam in 1621. He was appointed architect to the city of Amsterdam

in 1594, and his name is connected with buildings both in that town

and elsewhere. One of his most notable works is the monument erected

at Delft to the memory of William the Silent. Cornelius Danckerts was

associated with de Keyzer and lived from 1561 to 1631. Born at Ghent

about the year 1560, Lieven de Key worked principally at Haarlem and

Leiden. He was the author of the celebrated Meat Market at Haarlem,

a remarkable building which has evoked both praise and disparagement;

it was completed in 1603. He was responsible for the design of other

civic buildings as well as numerous private dwellings. Such men as

these had their followers and founded schools of architecture in the

places of their professional activities. There was thus a vigorous

body of men working at Haarlem; while Amsterdam, which had become

virtually the political and commercial capital as well as the centre

of the arts, had its own assembly of architects who were particularly

energetic in the city and exercised great influence in the adjacent

districts. The results of their accomplishments are still apparent,

and the many large and sober gabled houses suggest to the imagination

the comparative splendour of seventeenth-century Amsterdam.

The buildings of this period are quaint and charming. If somewhat

lacking in serious architectonic qualities, they are inseparably

connected with the national sentiments; they stand as lasting evidences

of human emotion expressed through the medium of brick and stone. The

streets lined with ancient houses are witnesses of a great past, and

bring to remembrance those strong and earnest men who honoured hearth

and threshold and fought to save their fatherland from tyranny and

threatened ruin. Above all, the structures bear upon them the impress

of the intellectual life which was concerned with their production. The

work itself is thoroughly Dutch in character, full of suggestion, and

the materials are well handled. That of the early Renaissance is the

best, and in it the two streams of thought--mediæval and classic--are

seen harmoniously blended. A good example from Leiden, by Lieven de

Key, is illustrated opposite; signs of the new influence are obvious in

the details, yet it has the traditional form of stepped gable; while

there is a freedom of handling discernible in the disposition of the

ground floor features which was dictated by convenience rather than

symmetrical arrangement. All the work, however, was not so reasonable

as this. Gables of extraordinary and curious outline began to appear,

remarkable certainly for fertility of invention, but often lacking

in delicacy and restraint. Isolated stone ornaments, unconnected with

constructive principles, were applied to vacant wall spaces. They were

decorated with lion-heads, armorial bearings, strapwork, cartouches,

winged heads and panels in relief, all vigorously carved. Many of

the subjects were seemingly derived from published pattern books and

decorative designs, and lack that independence of conception which

distinguishes all inspired craftsmanship.

Evidence goes to prove that the men who made the designs for the

buildings had not yet become detached from the building trades. They

were not architects within the present meaning of that term. They

were described as masons, stonecutters, and the like, and no doubt

were master-builders who, in addition to supplying the design, had

a personal hand in the execution of the work of their own particular

craft. The idea that a trained director should conceive the work as a

whole, and marshal all the supplementary arts to proper subjugation,

had not yet been evolved. Architecture as a separate force was not

recognised.

Results automatically grew out of the united efforts of the sculptors,

bricklayers, carpenters and masons who were engaged on the same

production. So de Key, in addition to acting as a designer, was

the city mason of Haarlem; H. de Keyzer was sculptor to the city of

Amsterdam; and these are typical instances of the conditions then

prevailing. It is also not surprising to find in this country, where

government by municipalities was so well developed, that the architects

were often official servants of the towns. Two such are mentioned

above; Dryfhout was town architect of Middelburg, and Ambrosius van

Hanenberch held a similar position at 's Hertogenbosch. [1] The demand

for qualified men to protect and guide the public artistic needs was

appreciated, a wise and excellent practice from which present-day

authorities in England might well take a lesson.

With the advancing seventeenth century came a keener desire for the

employment of purer forms of Renaissance art. Architects turned their

thoughts to the Italian ideal, which they modified, yet preserved

in its essential characteristics. Chief among the exponents of the

developed style were Jacob van Campen and Phillippus Vinckboons,

both of Amsterdam; and Pieter Post of Haarlem. The massive Town Hall

of Amsterdam--now the Royal Palace--by van Campen, is one of the

most important buildings of this period. It was erected between the

years 1648 and 1655. But the severe classic ideas, directing towards

uniformity and symmetrical arrangements, were never really at home, nor

did they displace the weakening influence of inherited tradition. In

the general mass of work the Dutch national genius continued to

assert itself. Up to the time when the native architecture became

devoid of character and personality, the houses and trade buildings

in which the people lived and worked--even if of strange appearance

or sometimes fantastic beyond description--retained an unmistakable

flavour of the vernacular and owned something of that playfulness

and quaint invention that were the heritage of mediæval times.

It is fitting to conclude this Introduction by referring to the

effect of Dutch upon English architecture. For our style of domestic

building has in the past owed something to knowledge gained from the

Low Countries; details have been derived from the Dutch and their

practices adopted. Most obviously the influence is to be seen in the

Eastern counties, although it penetrated more or less throughout the

country; Staffordshire can show it as well as Norfolk, Wiltshire as

well as Kent. To those men of the Netherlands who early engaged in

English commerce the germs of this influence are to be traced. Not

that many of these foreigners were actively connected with the building

trades, but, during a long period of trading intercourse and settlement

by merchants and artisans, they, as a matter of course, left distinct

impressions of their own ideas. Onward from the fourteenth century

the influx of Flemings and Dutchmen into England was considerable

and the reasons for their coming various. Apart from the traders,

skilled artisans were encouraged to settle for the purpose of

improving the home manufactures. Oppression, too, was responsible

for many immigrants; to cite an instance, thousands of people left

Holland when the harsh Duke of Alva, acting for Philip of Spain,

was in 1567 appointed commander of the forces, and numbers of

them found refuge in England. But the presence of foreigners such

as these, most of whom were not engaged in the building crafts,

had only an indirect effect upon the local architecture. It was the

imported artificers, coming from Germany as well as the Netherlands,

who brought a new development to English building. "Throughout the

reign of Elizabeth," writes Professor Blomfield, "their influence

was in the air and predominant." The results of it are obvious in

work then erected, notably in the long series of country houses with

strapwork ornament, peculiar decoration of porches and fireplaces,

and much patterned woodwork. Again, with the advent of Dutch William

to the English throne, further new features were introduced and they

are especially traceable in the admirable brickwork of the Queen

Anne style. But the lasting and altogether good effect of Dutch

influence was on traditional, rather than academic architecture, on

those quiet and unpretentious buildings of the countryside. Here the

foreign motives were almost imperceptibly blended with those existing,

neither suddenly nor inharmoniously. A feature was added here, a detail

there, yet the work remained truly English in character. Old villages

can yet show buildings that bear upon them traces of an alien hand, or

embody ideas drawn from other than local sources of inspiration. Such

are the East Kentish cottages at Sandwich, Ickham, Reading Street and

Sarre; the halls and manor-houses of Norfolk, Suffolk, and Essex, with

corbie-stepped and curved gables; the high brick barns of the Eastern

counties; and endless picturesque groupings of certain distinction

that exist up and down the land. The industrious settlers from over

the water certainly brought something to our traditional architecture,

gave it qualities that helped to make it what it was. And when they

came to erect their dwellings on foreign soil, they cherished the

memory of their own country, and turned their thoughts to home and

to the houses on the tree-lined streets and waterways of Holland.

DIVISION I

THE DEVELOPMENT OF DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE

The only really abundant building materials in Holland were

bricks. Stone was available in limited quantities, but not readily

so. Brick-earths there were in plenty, and brick-building has been

practised continuously from the dawn of Dutch architecture to the

present day. The inhabitants, after long and intimate association,

became very proficient in the use of bricks, skilful in applying

them, and apt to quickly realize the possibilities afforded by this

material. There is, therefore, a great deal of old work of exceptional

interest which is, in addition, valuable for the suggestions it

presents.

The creation and development of an architectural style, depending

upon brickwork as the medium for its execution, call into being

considerable powers of ingenuity. For the limitations of bricks

are definite and circumscribed; the unit is small and its size not

subject to variation. Moreover, enrichment can only be obtained by

careful disposition and arrangement of the units, and the almost

unlimited scope possessed by stone, wood or plaster--both in respect

to size of parts and effects of surface decoration--is nearly

non-existent. Difficulties such as these have to be realised and

overcome, but good results are not easily secured. The preconceived

ideas in the mind, the general proportions, and the disposition of

features, are governed to a degree by the nature of the building

material. And for these reasons, the bonding of the walling, colour

arrangements, width and finish of the mortar joints, and the precise

manner of forming details, all contribute markedly to the ultimate

appearance of the whole. Good brickwork depends, even more than other

forms of building, upon a complete understanding of the capabilities

of the medium; skill in manipulating it is secondary only to capacity

for design.

It was in the use of bricks that the Dutch were especially

successful. Qualified by experience gained through years of experiment,

their achievements were dexterous and often daring. They were

thoroughly at home with brickwork, alive to its restrictions as well as

its possibilities, and they handled it in a spontaneous and reasonable

way. All the features and details of some buildings had to be suitably

designed for execution in this not very pliable material--gables

(page 21), windows, doorways (shown above), decoration, mouldings

and traceries. Problems such as these, definitely existing, were

satisfactorily solved. The craftsmen thought in brickwork, as it

were, and forms were more or less dictated by the means available

for carrying them out. Not that stone was ignored; on the contrary,

it was doubtless used when it could be obtained, as our illustrations

plainly show. Thus, it was employed not only for ornamental details

but often for the entire structures. Wood had its uses too, as may be

seen in the half-timbered houses at Dordrecht or the wooden-fronted

ones at Gorinchem (Gorcum), illustrated opposite; and plaster entered

into the construction of many country buildings. But the prevailing

conditions brought about an advanced development of brickwork and

through it the vital building tradition was evolved.

The old bricks themselves were particularly well shaped and the

proportion of height to length gave a long and narrow appearance. How

narrow they actually were will be realised when it is stated that it

not infrequently happens we find them no more than 1-1/4 inches high.

Some of the sizes noted are 1-1/4 inches by 6-3/4 inches to 7 inches at

Workum; 1-1/2 inches by 7 inches at Breda (page 24); 1-1/2 inches by

8-1/2 inches, and 1-3/4 inches by 7 inches to 8-1/2 inches at Haarlem;

and 2 inches by 9 inches at 's Hertogenbosch. They were laid with five,

six, or seven courses to the foot, and sometimes the door and window

openings were formed with smaller sized bricks than those used for the

main walling. It was only rarely that comparatively large bricks were

employed. Some may be seen in the walls of the old Abbey at Middelburg,

and "Thvis van Leeninge" (page 25), situated in the same town, has

bricks measuring 2-1/2 inches by 9-1/2 inches; while a building at

Franeker, in Friesland, is carried out in unusually large bricks,

which vary in size from 3 inches to 3-1/2 inches by 10-1/2 inches

to 11-1/2 inches. The joints are widest in the older work and were

either finished with dark mortar, no lighter in tone than the bricks,

or were raked out and pointed up with light mortar. The bond almost

universally adopted was that known by the name of "English" and not,

as is often erroneously stated, "Flemish." English bond consists of

alternate courses of headers and stretchers; that is to say, one course

of bricks, all placed longways, upon a course all laid endways, and so

continuously up the wall. Flemish bond, rarely to be seen in Holland,

has alternate headers and stretchers in every course. Dutch brickwork

shows a wide range of colouring. Some is very dark and of a purple

tint; some is yellow, particularly in the neighbourhood of Dordrecht;

red bricks there are in every town; while at Breda they gradate from

lemon yellow to a delicate salmon pink. It will be perceived that

materials such as these offered means for harmonious combinations. The

possibilities were appreciated, and about the country there exist

many happy effects which were secured by blending the various coloured

bricks. It was a favourite method to build walls with parti-coloured

bands running horizontally through them in the manner shown from

Franeker (page 26), where four courses of red bricks interchange

with one of yellow. Mouldings and surrounds to openings often

contrasted with the prevailing colour of the building. As an

illustration of this, the example from Dordrecht (below) may be

cited; the walls are formed with yellow bricks and the decorated

window-heads with red. In addition to effects obtained by colour

harmonies, enrichment was secured by applying moulded and shaped

brickwork. It was confined principally to the doorways, windows and

string courses, and how successful this system of ornamentation can

be will be realised by further reference to the two above-mentioned

drawings. Among other familiar features of Dutch buildings are the

mosaic decorations which generally occupy the arched spaces over

window-heads. Made up of simple units--square or shaped bricks and

little pieces of stone--they were set together to form repeating

patterns and devices. Many of the houses, such as that at Dordrecht

(page 27), attain distinction by reason of these interesting and

freely rendered details, and they will be more fully considered in

the following chapter on exterior features.

Pantiles were almost universally used for roof-coverings in the towns,

while in the country thatching was freely employed. Under certain

conditions the good qualities of pantiles show conspicuously. Where the

country is level and the landscape low, and big changing sky-effects

constantly recur, they look particularly homely and suitable. Their

curved surfaces quickly respond to play of light, becoming successively

bright in the sunlight or mellow-toned in the shadow. They have the

appearance, too, of being well able to withstand the wind and the

rain. Holland is a country having the attributes for the successful use

of these tiles; moreover, they blended in every way with the prevailing

brick architecture, both of the towns and of the villages, as is shown

by the illustrations from Haarlem (page 29) and St. Laurens (page

31). They were not always of that bright red colour usually associated

with pantiles. Many were made from a grey clay and look not unpleasing;

especially in the town and neighbourhood of Zutphen they can be well

observed. The thatched roofs of the countryside do not present any

special characteristics. They were contrived to accomplish their

purpose in a straightforward way. Brought down directly from ridge

to eaves, or arranged pyramidally, they have no added decoration in

straw-work. The ridge was protected by a course of half-round tiles

of which the farmhouse at Spaarwoude (page 30) furnishes an example,

and the roof of this building, arranged part in thatch and part in

pantiles, is an instance of a fairly prevalent practice.

Passing from the consideration of building materials to that of

planning, it may be stated as a general rule that the ground plans of

the old work were usually determined by the exigencies of practical

requirements. The very narrow frontage of many of the houses gave

little latitude for variation of interior disposition: for it will be

noticed that the majority of the houses were built with gable-ends

facing to the streets, and these consequently became the principal

elevations. The measurement from front to back of each was thus much

greater than that from side to side. The economical and practical

way of treating such an area would be to arrange a passage at the

side, directly through from front to back, which would, as well,

give access to the rooms and stairs; and this is what was generally

done. Such a passage, sketched from the outside pavement, is shown on

this page. This expedient was not necessary when the building had a

wider frontage, and in such a case the way through was often placed

more or less centrally, in the manner illustrated from Alkmaar on

page 33. On the other hand, the narrow house at Hoorn (page 34) has

a central entrance, and here it gives immediate access to the front

room. But the passage was an important feature of Dutch planning and

gave the fundamental idea for general disposition.

The internal arrangements were disclosed by the elevations and a

guiding principle of Gothic design was thereby followed. The positions

of lofty rooms, ways of access, staircases and different floor levels,

were as much as possible made obvious on the outside of the buildings.

This practice led to many happy results. Not fettered by artificial

conventions or limited by unyielding laws, the designers were able to

give scope to their invention. Utility and convenience set the theme

for spontaneous fancy to adorn. These were the motive powers, the

guiding impulses that lay behind the early work, and they continued

to operate with more or less force for many generations. The series of

houses in the "Balans" at Middelburg (page 35) furnishes a good example

of a group that owed its inception to such influences. While there is

harmony between part and part no two are alike. One house is higher

than its fellow; one comes forward over the paved way while another

recedes. Doorways and windows are conveniently, but not too evenly

disposed. The brightly painted window-shutters give lively colour, and

isolated features--such as the staircase turret seen on the right--show

with telling effect. Gables of differing shape break the skyline.

Utilitarian in lighting the rooms of the roofs, the dormers

æsthetically serve to carry the eye up to the ridges. The whole

impression, if irregular, is picturesque to a degree. Contemplating

an effect such as this, so powerful in its human appeal to the eye

and mind, it is difficult to appreciate those arguments which are

advanced against principles capable of giving such satisfying results.

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