in the whites of the eggs and the flavoring. Stand the bowl in a pan of
boiling water and beat continuously until the ingredients are hot; take
from the fire and beat constantly for ten minutes. When this is cool, fold
in the cream whipped to a stiff froth, pack and freeze.
Serve with quince jelly sauce poured over the mousse.
This will serve eight persons.
PISTACHIO MOUSSE
4 ounces of pistachio nuts
1 tablespoonful of gelatin
1 pint of water
1 pint of cream
1/2 pound of sugar
1 teaspoonful of almond extract
3 drops of green coloring
Blanch the pistachio nuts and put them through a meat grinder. Boil
the sugar and water for five minutes; when cool, add the coloring, the
pistachio nuts, and the gelatin moistened in a little cold water. When this
is cold, fold in the cream beaten to a stiff froth, and freeze in a mold as
directed.
If this is not too well mixed the cream will separate, which makes the
handsomer dessert. When the mousse is turned from the mold it will then
have a solid white base with a rather green, beautiful transparent mixture
at the top.
This will serve ten persons.
RICE MOUSSE WITH A COMPOTE OF MANDARINS
1/2 cupful of rice
1 tablespoonful of gelatin
2/3 cupful of sugar
1 pint of milk
1 pint of cream
1/4 pound of candied cherries
1 teaspoonful of vanilla
Wash and boil the rice in water for twenty minutes, drain, put it in a
double boiler with the milk and sugar; stir until the sugar is dissolved,
cover the kettle and cook slowly for twenty minutes. Press through a sieve,
add the vanilla, and the gelatin covered with cold water. When this is
cold, fold in the cream whipped to a stiff froth; pack and freeze.
I usually freeze this in the ordinary ice cream can; simply remove the
dasher, put in the mixture and pack it to freeze for two or three hours.
While this is ripening, separate the mandarins into carpels. Boil together
for five minutes one pound of sugar, a half pint of water and the juice of
one lemon; take from the fire, add at once the carpels, stir lightly until
they are thoroughly covered with the syrup and stand aside until _very
cold_.
At serving time, wipe the outside of the freezing can with a warm towel,
turn the mousse into the centre of a round dish, heap the carpels around
the base and over the top in the form of a pyramid, pour over the syrup,
and send at once to the table.
This will serve twelve persons.
SAUCES FOR ICE CREAMS
HOT CHOCOLATE SAUCE
1/2 cupful of cream or condensed milk
2 ounces of chocolate
1 cupful of sugar
1 teaspoonful of vanilla
Put all the ingredients into a saucepan and stir over the fire until they
reach boiling point, boil until the mixture slightly hardens when dropped
into cold water. Add the vanilla, turn at once into the sauceboat and send
to the table. This must be sufficiently thin to dip nicely over the ice
cream.
MAPLE SAUCE
1 cupful of sugar
1 teaspoonful of lemon juice
1 cupful of water
1 teaspoonful of maple flavoring
Put half the sugar in an iron saucepan and stand it over the fire until it
melts and browns, add hastily the water, the remaining sugar and the lemon
juice, and boil for about two minutes; take from the fire and add the
flavoring. This may be served plain, or with chopped fruit or nuts added.
CLARET SAUCE
Boil one cupful of sugar and a half cupful of water with a saltspoonful of
cream of tartar for five minutes. Take from the fire and add one cupful of
claret, and stand aside until icy cold.
NUT SAUCE
1 cupful of sugar
1/2 cupful of chopped nuts
1 cupful of water
1 teaspoonful of caramel
2 teaspoonfuls of sherry
Boil the sugar and water with a saltspoonful of cream of tartar or a
teaspoonful of lemon juice for five minutes, take from the fire and add all
the other ingredients, and stand aside to cool.
MONTROSE SAUCE
1/2 tablespoonful of granulated gelatin
1/4 cupful of sugar
1/2 cupful of milk
1 pint of cream
2 tablespoonfuls of brandy
1 teaspoonful of vanilla
Yolks of 3 eggs
Cover the gelatin with milk, let it soak a half hour, and put it, with the
milk, in a double boiler over the fire. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the
sugar together, add them to the hot milk, stir about one minute until the
mixture begins to thicken, take from the fire, and, when cold, add the
vanilla and the brandy, and, if you like it, four tablespoonfuls of sherry.
Stand this aside until very, very cold.
ORANGE SAUCE
1/2 pint of orange juice
1/2 pint of water
1/2 cupful of sugar
1 tablespoonful of arrowroot
Whites of three eggs
Add the sugar to the water, and, when boiling hot, add the arrowroot
moistened. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add gradually the
hot mixture, beating all the while. Add the orange juice, beat again. Turn
it into a sauceboat and stand aside until very cold.
WALNUT SAUCE
Melt maple sugar with a little water, and add to each cupful of syrup a
half cupful of chopped black walnuts. Maple syrup may also be used by
adding half the quantity of boiling water and the nuts.
REFRESHMENTS FOR AFFAIRS
In arranging this matter, I have made an earnest effort to be of service
to the housewife without or with one maid, as well as to those who are
fortunate enough to have trained help.
It is, perhaps, unnecessary to say that elaborate refreshments are entirely
out of place at small afternoon or evening cards. An ice, with a wafer,
or cake and coffee, served on card tables, are sufficient. A salad, with
bread and butter sandwiches and coffee, or a salad sandwich with coffee,
make a nice combination. Hot dishes, even light entrées, seem to call
for a dessert, or another course and coffee. For wedding and other large
receptions serve a greater variety of dishes--jellied meats, boned chicken,
salads, sandwiches, ices, cakes and coffee. In winter creamed dishes may be
served in paper cases on the same plate with salads and other cold dishes.
Serve coffee in small cups after refreshments.
Many so called elaborate dishes are quite easily made, and entrées are
frequently quite as good when rewarmed.
Chicken croquettes may be made and fried early in the day, ready to rewarm
on brown paper in a baking pan in a hot oven ten minutes before serving
time. Sandwiches will keep perfectly well for several hours if wrapped in
a damp towel and closed in a tin bread box. Salad sandwiches are better,
however, if made as near serving time as possible.
If a large reception is to be given, even with good help, prepare as many
dishes as possible the day before, to avoid confusion on the fixed day.
Refreshments for small affairs need not necessarily cost much time or
money. A half cupful of chopped left-over steak, a couple of chops or a bit
of chicken or a box of sardines, make a good foundation for molds of tomato
jelly. Served with bread and butter sandwiches and coffee they are quite
sufficient for afternoon or evening cards.
Many of the ices in this book are new and attractive. The new sorbets are
liked by those who are always striving for a change. Many are old and
reliable.
At large affairs, serve from the dining table.
At card parties, large and small, serve on the card tables, using a small
tea cloth on each table.
At afternoon teas, serve from the tea table in the drawing room.
At lawn parties, serve from a large table on the lawn. Small tables may be
placed here and there for the convenience of guests.
Every day afternoon tea may be served, in the summer on the porch, in the
winter, in the living room or library.
If two dishes only are served, be sure that they harmonize with each other
and with the manner of service.
Suitable and hygienic combinations are always to be considered, but the
æsthetic side seems to me of equal importance.
COFFEE FOR LARGE HOME AFFAIRS
Allow eleven ounces of finely ground coffee to each gallon of water. This
will serve twenty five persons with one coffee cup each, and forty persons
with after-dinner cups. The better way to make a large quantity of coffee
without an urn is to purchase a new wash boiler. Wash it and put in the
required quantity of water (cold). Weigh the coffee and divide it into half
pound lots. Put each lot in a small cheese cloth bag; tie the top of the
bag, allowing room for the coffee to swell. Put the bags in the water an
hour before serving time, bring slowly to a boil, and then boil rapidly for
five minutes. Remove the bags at once, pressing them well. Keep the coffee
very hot until it is all served.
Coffee is not spoiled by being kept at boiling point for some time, if the
grounds are removed.
SOUPS
BOUILLON
2 pounds of chopped lean beef
2 quarts of cold water
1 small onion
12 cloves
2 tablespoonfuls of sugar
2 teaspoonfuls of salt
12 whole peppercorns
A dash of cayenne
Juice of half a lemon
Put the sugar in the soup kettle, add the onion, sliced, and shake until
the onion is thoroughly browned and the sugar almost burned; add the meat,
shake it for a moment, and add the water. Cover, bring to boiling point,
and put over a slow fire to simmer for two hours. Add all the seasonings
and simmer one hour longer. Strain through a colander, pressing the
meat. Beat the whites of two eggs slightly, then whisk them into the
warm bouillon, and add the juice of the lemon. Bring to boiling point,
boil rapidly five minutes, let it stand a moment, and strain through two
thicknesses of cheese cloth. This should stand until it is perfectly cold,
so that every particle of fat may be removed from the surface. Reheat to
serve.
This will serve ten persons, using ordinary bouillon cups.
CLAM BOUILLON
50 large clams
2 quarts of water
12 whole peppercorns
1/2 teaspoonful of celery seed
Wash and scrub the clams thoroughly. Put them, a few at a time, in the soup
kettle, the bottom of which has been covered with a pint of boiling water.
Boil rapidly, take the clams out with a skimmer, and put in another lot,
and so continue until all the clams have been cooked. Remove them from the
shells, saving all the liquor. Chop and return them, with the liquor and
remaining water, to the soup kettle. Simmer gently a half hour, then add
the peppercorns, crushed, and the celery seed. Cover the kettle, take it
from the fire and allow it to stand until perfectly cold. Strain through
two thicknesses of cheese cloth. Reheat to serve.
This will serve fifteen persons.
BELLEVUE BOUILLON
1 quart of plain or chicken bouillon
1 quart of clam bouillon
1/2 pint of cream
Paprika
This is one of the most elegant of all bouillons. Heat the bouillons
separately, mix them at the last minute, pour at once into heated cups, put
a tablespoonful of whipped cream on the top of each cup, garnish with a
dusting of paprika, and send to the table.
This will serve ten persons; in a pinch, twelve.
CHICKEN BOUILLON
1 four pound fowl
3 quarts of water
1 onion
2 tablespoonfuls of sugar
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 bay leaf
1 saltspoonful of celery seed, or one half cupful of chopped celery
1 saltspoonful of black pepper
Draw the chicken and cut it up as for a fricassee. Scald and skin the feet,
and crack them thoroughly with your cleaver knife. Put the sugar in a soup
kettle, add the onion, sliced, shake over a quick fire until brown, add the
chicken and the water, bring to boiling point, and skim. Simmer gently for
two hours. Add all the seasonings, simmer one hour longer, and strain. Add
the juice of half a lemon and the whites of two eggs, slightly beaten. Boil
rapidly five minutes, and strain through two thicknesses of cheese cloth.
Reheat to serve. This may be used in place of beef bouillon, with the clam
broth, for Bellevue bouillon.
This will serve twelve persons.
OYSTER BOUILLON
50 fat oysters
2 quarts of water
12 whole peppercorns
12 whole allspice
1-1/2 teaspoonfuls of salt
Drain and wash the oysters. Throw them at once in a hot kettle, shake until
the gills have curled, cover the kettle, and simmer gently for fifteen
minutes. Drain again, this time saving the liquor. Return it to the kettle
with the peppercorns and allspice, crushed, and water. Chop the oysters
with a silver knife, put them back in the kettle, simmer gently a half
hour, and add the salt. Strain through two thicknesses of cheese cloth,
reheat and serve with whipped cream on top of each cup.
This serves fifteen persons.
TOMATO PUREE à la RORER
1 quart can of tomatoes
1/2 pint of cream
1 quart of chicken bouillon
2 tablespoonfuls of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of arrowroot
1 bay leaf
1 blade of mace
1 onion
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 teaspoonful of paprika
Add the onion, paprika, mace and bay leaf to the tomatoes, boil rapidly
five minutes. Moisten the arrowroot with three or four tablespoonfuls of
cold water, add it to the hot tomato, boil ten minutes, and press through
a sieve. Add the chicken bouillon, boil ten minutes, add the butter, and,
when the butter is thoroughly dissolved, turn at once into cups. Put a
tablespoonful of whipped cream on top of each, and serve.
This will serve ten persons.
GLAZE
Glaze is absolutely necessary for fine cooking, either for the browning of
sweetbreads, birds or chickens.
Cover a half box of gelatin with a half cupful of cold water to soak for an
hour. Put one quart of good bouillon, chicken or beef, over the fire, and
boil it rapidly until reduced to a pint; add the gelatin. As soon as the
gelatin is dissolved, strain the mixture. Put four tablespoonfuls of sugar
into an iron saucepan, stir until it is browned, then add to it slowly the
hot glaze, stir until it is thoroughly melted, turn it into a china or
granite receptacle, and stand away to cool. Keep this in the refrigerator,
and use it according to directions.
SWEETBREADS
SWEETBREADS à la CREME, No. 1
2 pairs of calves' sweetbreads
1 can of mushrooms
1 pint of milk
4 level tablespoonfuls of butter
4 level tablespoonfuls of flour
1 level teaspoonful of salt
1 saltspoonful of white pepper
Wash the sweetbreads and trim them. Throw them in a saucepan of boiling
water and simmer gently for one hour; drain and throw them in cold water.
The water in which they were boiled may be used for stock. When they are
thoroughly cold, remove the membrane, and pick them into small pieces.
Rub the butter and flour together in a saucepan, add the milk, stir until
boiling, add the mushrooms, chopped fine, the sweetbreads, salt and pepper.
Stir until it again reaches the boiling point, cover and stand over hot
water for twenty minutes. Serve in ramekin dishes, paté shells or paper
cases. This will fill twelve cases, or fourteen paté shells.
SWEETBREADS à la CREME, No. 2
1 pound of fresh mushrooms
2 pairs of calves' sweetbreads
1/2 pint of milk
4 level tablespoonfuls of butter
4 level tablespoonfuls of flour
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 saltspoonful of white pepper
Wash and stem the mushrooms; do not peel them. With a silver knife cut them
into slices. Put half the butter in a saucepan, add the mushrooms and half
the milk, and the salt and pepper. Cover the saucepan, and stew slowly a
half hour. Rub the remaining butter and flour together; drain the liquor
from the mushrooms, add it, with the rest of the milk, to the butter and
flour. Stir until boiling, add the mushrooms and sweetbreads that have been
boiled and picked apart. Cover the saucepan, stand it over hot water, or
use a double boiler, pushing the boiler to the back of the stove for twenty
to thirty minutes. The saucepan must be kept closely covered, or the aroma
of the mushrooms will be lost.
This will fill sixteen cases, or fourteen paté shells, or alone it will
serve twelve persons.
SWEETBREADS à la BORDELAISE
1 pair of calves' sweetbreads
1/2 pint of stock
1 onion
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoonful of salt
1 can of mushrooms
1 teaspoonful of browning or kitchen bouquet
1 saltspoonful of white pepper
2 level tablespoonfuls of butter
2 level tablespoonfuls of flour
Wash the sweetbreads, put them in a saucepan, add the bay leaf, onion and
one pint of cold water; bring to boiling point, and simmer gently one hour.
Save the water in which they were boiled. Throw the sweetbreads into cold
water, remove the membrane and pick them apart. Put the butter and flour in
a saucepan; when thoroughly mixed, add a half pint of stock in which the
sweetbreads were boiled, stir until boiling, add the mushrooms, drained,
and the seasoning. Bring to boiling point, and push to the back of the fire
for ten minutes. Skim off any butter that comes to the surface, add the
sweetbreads, cook gently ten minutes longer, and serve in either paté
cases, ramekin dishes, or paper cases.
This will serve eight persons.
BAKED SWEETBREADS
2 pairs of calves' sweetbreads
1 can of French peas
3 tablespoonfuls of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of glaze
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 saltspoonful of pepper
Wash the sweetbreads and soak them in cold water; cut them apart and trim
them neatly. Sprinkle the bottom of a baking pan with a chopped onion, put
the sweetbreads on top, dust them lightly with salt and pepper, baste them
with one tablespoonful of the butter, melted, and run them in a quick oven
to bake for twenty minutes. Then brush them thoroughly with glaze and bake
them ten minutes longer. Drain, wash and heat the peas, add the remaining
butter and season them with salt and pepper. Put the peas in the bottom
of the serving dish, dish the sweetbreads in them and send at once to
the table. These may also be served in individual dishes, cutting the
sweetbreads in small pieces, so they may be eaten with a fork.
They will serve from four to six people. The throat sweetbread may be cut
into halves, but as a rule one sweetbread is served to each person.
LAMBS' SWEETBREADS IN PAPER CASES
8 lambs' sweetbreads
1/2 box of gelatin
1 pint of beef stock or chicken bouillon
1 can of peas
1 head of celery
2 level tablespoonfuls of butter
2 level tablespoonfuls of flour
1/2 pint of milk
1 lemon
Hearts of lettuce
Yolks of two eggs
Salt and pepper
Wash the sweetbreads, put them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water,
add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a sliced onion. Cook gently for
three-quarters of an hour. Drain, put them in a baking pan, brush them with
butter, add a few tablespoonfuls of glaze or stock, put over three or four
slices of bacon, and cook in the oven a half hour, basting three or four
times. Rub the butter and flour together, add the milk, stir until boiling,
add two tablespoonfuls of the soaked gelatin, a half teaspoonful of salt
and a little white pepper. Take from the fire and add hastily the beaten
yolks of the eggs. Cover the bottom of a cold baking pan with muffin rings,
put one sweetbread into each muffin ring. When the sauce is a little cool,
cover the sweetbreads thoroughly, filling the rings quite full. Stand these
away over night in a cold place.
Dissolve the remaining gelatin in the hot bouillon, season, add the lemon
juice, and stand it aside over night. At serving time, remove the contents
from the rings and place them in paper cases of the same size. Turn the
clear aspic out on to a towel and cut it into pretty shapes. Decorate the
top of the cases with this aspic, placing a sprig of green in the centre.
Drain and press the cold peas through a sieve, and season them with salt
and pepper; put this pulp in a pastry bag with a star tube, and decorate
the top of each mold. Serve at once with mayonnaise passed in a boat.
Another way is to fill the bottom of the paper cases with finely chopped
celery, mixed with mayonnaise, and put the sweetbreads on top, omitting
the peas. If made well, these are exceedingly handsome. One "ring" will be
served to each person.
SWEETBREADS à la NEWBURG
2 pairs of calves' sweetbreads
1 can of mushrooms
4 hard boiled yolks of eggs
1/2 pint of milk
2 level tablespoonfuls of butter
1 tablespoonful of flour
1/2 teaspoonful of salt
1 saltspoonful of white pepper
1/2 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg
A dash of cayenne
Cook the sweetbreads as directed in first recipe; when cold, pick them
apart, rejecting the membrane. Rub the butter and flour together, add the
milk, stir until boiling, and add this slowly to the mashed yolks of the
eggs. Work and stir until you have a perfectly smooth paste. Press it
through a fine sieve, add the salt, pepper, mushrooms and sweetbreads.
Stand over hot water for twenty minutes, until thoroughly hot. Add, if you
use it, four tablespoonfuls of sherry, and serve.
This will serve ten persons.
SHELL-FISH DISHES
DEVILED CRABS
12 crabs, or one pint of crab flake
4 hard boiled eggs
2 level tablespoonfuls of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of soft bread crumbs
1 tablespoonful of flour
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg
1 teaspoonful of onion juice
1/2 pint of milk
A dash of cayenne
Chop the whites of the hard boiled eggs very, very fine. Put the yolks
through a sieve. Rub the butter and flour together, and add the milk; stir
until boiling, take from the fire, and add the bread crumbs and the eggs.
Add all the seasoning to the crab flake, mix the two together, and fill at
once into the shells. The shells must be quite full, so that there will be
no danger of the fat being held in the shell. Dip the shells in egg, then
cover them thickly with bread crumbs. It is well to egg and bread crumb the
upper side again; in fact both dippings may be on the upper sides, leaving
the shells red underneath. Put these in a frying basket and fry for a
minute in hot, deep fat. Serve one to each person.
This quantity should fill eight shells.
CRAB BACKS à la CARACAS
1 dozen crabs, or six backs and a pint of crab flake
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 teaspoonful of onion juice
A dash of cayenne
Add the seasoning to the crab flakes, and mix without breaking the flakes.
Fill the mixture into the backs, put a teaspoonful of butter on the top
of each, sprinkle lightly with crumbs, and bake in a quick oven twenty
minutes,
CRAB MEAT à la DEWEY
1 pint of crab flake
2 tablespoonfuls of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of flour
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 red and one green pepper
1/2 pint of chicken stock, or milk
2 tablespoonfuls of sherry
Yolks of two eggs
Drop the peppers into hot fat just a moment and rub off the skin, remove
the seeds and chop the flesh fine. Put this, with the butter, in a
saucepan, and shake over the fire until the peppers are soft. Add the
flour, mix, and add the stock or milk; stir until boiling, add the salt and
pepper and the crab flakes. Do not stir, but heat slowly over hot water.
When hot, add the yolks of the eggs, beaten with two tablespoonfuls of
cream. Heat again, just a moment, being careful not to curdle the eggs, and
serve on toast.
This dish is very nice when made in a chafing dish, and will serve six
people.
LOBSTER CUTLETS
1 pint of lobster meat
2 level tablespoonfuls of butter
4 level tablespoonfuls of flour
1/2 pint of milk
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 teaspoonful of onion juice
1 saltspoonful of white pepper
1/2 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg
Yolk of one egg
A dash of cayenne
Chop the boiled lobster rather fine with a silver knife, and add to it all
the seasoning. Rub the butter and flour together in a saucepan, add the
milk, stir until you have a smooth, thick paste, add the yolk of the egg,
cook a moment longer, add the lobster, and turn out to cool. When cold,
form into cutlet shaped croquettes, dip in egg, roll in bread crumbs,
and fry in deep hot fat. Put a small claw in the end of each cutlet to
represent the bone. Serve with these either cream sauce or sauce tartar.
This quantity should make eight cutlets.
LOBSTER NEWBURG
Make this precisely the same as crabs Newburg, using one pint of boiled
lobster meat. Cut the lobster in cubes of about one inch. Purchase one
large or two small lobsters.
OYSTER CROQUETTES
50 fat oysters
4 level tablespoonfuls of flour
2 level tablespoonfuls of butter
1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 teaspoonful of onion juice
1/2 saltspoonful of nutmeg
1 saltspoonful of white pepper
Yolks of two eggs
Drain and wash the oysters, throw them into a hot kettle, shake until the
gills curl and the liquid boils. Boil five minutes and drain, saving the
liquor. There should be a half cupful of liquor. Chop the oysters and add
them to the liquor. Rub the butter and flour together, add the oysters and
liquor, stir until the mixture reaches boiling point, and push to the back
of the stove where it will cook for ten minutes. Add all the seasoning and
the yolks of the eggs, cook just a minute, and turn out to cool. This must
stand either over night, or must be placed directly on the ice for at least
four hours. When cold, form into small cylinder shaped croquettes, dip in
egg and bread crumbs, and fry in deep hot fat.