BY THE NORTH-WESTERN LINE THROUGH STOCKPORT.
Oh, my lord, lie not idle:
The chiefest action for a man of great spirit
Is never to be out of action. We should think
The soul was never put into the body,
Which has so many rare and curious pieces
Of mathematical motion, to stand still.
WEBSTER.
Before the opening of the "Manchester and Birmingham"--a title
now forgotten, the line having been absorbed into the London and
North-Western--the road through Rusholme, Didsbury, and Cheadle was
the accustomed highway to Congleton, _viâ_ Wilmslow, to which latter
place the hand still points at certain corners within a mile or two of
All Saints' Church. The Cheadle people occasionally made use of it for
pic-nic carriage parties to a fir-crowned steep just beyond Chorley,
a wilderness scarcely inhabited, and, save for its checking the speed
of travellers from Knutsford to Macclesfield, scarcely recognized in
the local geography. How vast the revolution promoted in 1842! The
wilderness soon became decked with mansions and gardens; it blossomed
as the rose; and "Alderley Edge" is now little less than a suburb of
Manchester.
The old carriage-way being superseded by the rail, and much that is
delightful being reached by train long before getting to Alderley, we
will now accordingly make new departure for fair Cheshire by way of
Stockport. Arrived at Wilmslow the old-fashioned, the Bollin reappears,
this particular point being in truth the head of the valley through
which the stream, as before-mentioned, pursues its sinuous and rapid
course to Ashley. The country upon the right is full of quiet lanes and
pretty meadows, none of which are more pleasing than those containing
the path to the margin of Norcliffe. If permission can be obtained to
visit the glen _ipsissima_, they are like the vestibule of a temple.
Norcliffe was laid out in 1830 by the late Mr. R. H. Greg. Selecting
everything that he planted with consummate taste and judgment, the
slopes are rich with trees which in point of value and variety have no
equal in this part of England. Beautiful from the first, the scene at
the present moment is more charming than ever before; for tree-planting
is one of those essentially noble and generous works the glory of which
a man can rarely expect to see unfolded in his own life-time:--like a
great poem, it reaches afar, and covers the generations that succeed.
The very striking feature of Norcliffe, the main and characteristic
one, consists in the profusion of the Conifers. The pine, the fir, the
cedar, in their many and always princely forms, are represented in
this delicious spot by upwards of forty species and varieties, many of
them having very numerous examples, all presenting, in the best manner,
the symmetrical outlines so remarkable in coniferous trees, and holding
positions with regard to their immediate neighbours such as awaken the
most agreeable ideas of harmony. There is no taller Deodara in the
neighbourhood than one of the specimens near the lawn, nor is there
anywhere in this neighbourhood a more comely Norway spruce, the top
already seventy feet above the turf, and covered annually with cones,
which the squirrels are glad of, the spring never finding one that the
little creatures have overlooked.
Norcliffe is equally remarkable in respect of its rhododendrons, the
purple splendour, early in June, tossed up like a floral surf. These
last, being like the conifers, evergreens, Norcliffe, if nothing
else, is a place of perennial verdure. Almost, as on the banks of old
Clitumnus--
Hic ver assiduum, atque alienis mensibus æstas!
The walk through the sylvan part of the glen, tortuous, and rarely on
level ground, brings many beautiful wild-flowers into view. Here, in
the month of May, is the wood-millet--lightest and daintiest, after
the Briza, of our native grasses--and yet more plentifully the sweet
woodruff, holding up in every corner its little handfuls of snow-white
crosses. Access to Norcliffe,--the grounds being strictly and in every
portion private,--is, of course, only by favour. But the honoured
name of Greg has always been a synonym for liberality, and leave to
enter when properly sought is not likely to be refused. The same may
be said of the picturesque and delightful grounds, a mile further
down the valley, which appertain to Oversley Lodge, the residence of
Mr. Arthur Greg. The treat here is the wilderness-walk, a portion of
which was cut only in 1881, along the side of the principal cliff.
During the progress of the clearing a new locality was found for the
true-love.[14] So certain is the reward, not only in important shape,
but in little and unexpected ways, of every man who first makes a path
through the forest, whether with the axe or with the more subtle tools
that are not wrought upon human forges. Spring is the time, above all
others, if it can be managed, for these beautiful Oversley woods; for
then we have the opening green leaves in a thousand artistic forms,
and in endless shades; the violets also, and the satin-flower; and,
full of promise, the so-comfortably-wrapped-up ferns that in September
will show how nature revels in transformations. The Oversley woods
abut very closely upon Cotterill, approaching which place there is
scenery not inferior in its modest and singular sweetness to that of
the vicinity of Castle Mill. The public approach is from Wilmslow,
treading first the western margin of Lindow Common, then going through
various lanes, and in front of "Dooley's farm." The greensward portion
of the country now soon entered is generally distinguished by the name
of the Morley Meadows, and the sylvan part by the somewhat odd title
of "Hanging-banks Wood." The phrase is designed, it would seem, to
convey an idea analogous to that involved in the name of the famous
"Hanging-gardens" of ancient Babylon, signifying terraces of wood and
blossom disposed in parallel order upon some gentle slope. This is
the part of the Bollin valley referred to in an early chapter (p. 27)
as the asylum, it is to be hoped indefinitely, of the primrose. Here,
too, Ophelia's "long-purples" live again, while under the shadow of
the trees we descry her "nettles," those beautiful golden yellow ones
that do not sting, and which blend so perfectly with the orchis and the
crow-flower. One fears almost to descend to the edge of the stream, for
willows are there that grow "aslant," and that have "envious slivers"
as of old. Once in these lovely meadows it is easy to find the way
into the lower Bollin valley, and thence to Ashley and Bowdon. But
the double walk is rather long, and prudence says return to Wilmslow.
Norcliffe and Oversley, it should be added, are reached as regards
carriage-way, by a nearly straight road from Handforth.
Lindow Common, famed from time immemorial for its bracing air, extends
from Wilmslow to Brook Lane. There is nothing particular to be seen
upon it, except by the naturalist, who, in one part or another, finds
abundance to give him pleasure. The locality is remarkable alike for
its sundews and the profusion of wild bees; it is one of the best known
to entomologists for the class Andrenidæ.
Women, it has been remarked, need no eulogy, since they speak for
themselves. Something similar, descriptively, might be said of Alderley
Edge. Whatever smoke-engendered thoughts may occupy the mind for
twenty minutes after contemplating Stockport, they are effectually
dispelled by the sight of the piny hill, a medley of nature and art,
that shows so proudly in front as soon as the train crosses the Bollin.
A grand undulating mass of sandstone, rising boldly out of the plain,
of considerable elevation,--the highest point being six hundred and
fifty feet above the sea,--and, reckoning to the out-of-sight portion
which overlooks Bollington, quite two miles in length, must needs be
impressive. Alderley gathers charm also from its great smooth slants
of green, rough and projecting rocks, and trees innumerable, three
or four aged and wind-beaten firs upon the tip-top, giving admirable
accentuation. Every portion in view from the railway is accessible
by paths, usually easy, these introducing us to many a deep and
sequestered glade that in autumn is crowded with ferns, or leading to
the crest of the hill, the views from which compensate all possible
fatigue of climbing. The simplest route to follow is that by the old
road running to Macclesfield. From the lower part of this we may take
one of the bye-roads that lie to the left, and thus get eventually
to the somewhat rough and scrambling, but still quite practicable
and pleasant, track which leads along the face of the great westward
incline. This huge slope, called the "Hough," may be ascended also
from beneath, keeping along the foot for about a mile, then turning
up through a field. Green shades and leafy labyrinths here tempt to
a never-slackening onward movement, especially in that part where a
great curve in the mountain-mass gives rise to a kind of bay, grassy
always, and that in spring teems with anemones. The prospect from the
Hough is everywhere magnificent, extending to Delamere Forest and the
Overton hills, which, like Coniston "alt maen," have a profile never
doubtful. The intermediate broad, flat space is the now familiar North
Cheshire plain. Should a canopy of smoke be distinguishable, it will
indicate Manchester. To enjoy this wonderful prospect perfectly, it
is best to adventure to the edge of "Stormy Point," or the Holywell
Rock--that noted crag which, in case of need, would serve well for a
new Tarpeian. Another quite different way to the top of the Edge is to
proceed a short distance along the Congleton road, or that which leads,
in the first instance, towards old Alderley village; then to turn up
a lane upon the left, which, passing through a grove of fir-trees,
terminates in the Macclesfield road, near the "Wizard." It is behind
this noted hostelry, commemorative in its name of the local legend,
that the sylvan loveliness of Alderley Edge is felt most exquisitely,
nature seeming here to have been left more to her own sweet wantonness;
while the views, extending now over a totally different country, hills
instead of a plain, add to our previous enjoyments the always welcome
one of surprise. Curling round this glorious promontory, we gradually
progress towards the "Beacon," the highest point, and in a few
minutes, descending thence, are once again in the public thoroughfare.
Alderley Park, the seat of Lord Stanley, lies near the village, upon
the left of the turnpike road. Strangers very rarely enter the gates.
The wonder to those who do is that so little should have been made of
natural advantages scarcely excelled anywhere in Cheshire. The best
features are the magnificent beech-trees and the sheet of ornamental
water, called Radnor Mere, upon the margins of which grow two of the
most interesting of the British sedges, the _Carex ampullacea_ and the
_Carex vesicaria_. The gardens have long been noted for their mulberry
trees.
Beyond this again is Birtles, the neighbourhood of which supplies a
very pleasant walk. Mounting the hill on the southern side, or where
the latter gently melts away into the level, the road in question
leads eventually to the "Wizard," at which point, if more convenient,
the walk may be commenced. If begun at the base, we turn up by the
four-armed guide-post, a little beyond Alderley church. The walk is
somewhat long, therefore better deferred till winter, selecting a day
when the frost is keen and the atmosphere bracing. A winter forenoon,
when the atmosphere is motionless, and icicles hang from the little
arches that bridge the water-courses, is every bit as enjoyable as the
most brilliant of summer evenings, let only the heart be alive and the
eyes trained to seeing. Over and above the rich healthfulness of this
Birtles walk, all the way up to the crown of the Edge, and round about
amid the trees in winter, for the artist of pre-Raphael vision, there
is bijouterie;--the chaste and tender arabesque given to rock and aged
bough by green moss and grey and golden lichen, gems of nature that
when the trees are leafy are apt to be skipped, but when all else is
cold and bare, like faithful affection, "make glad the solitary place."
Between Alderley and Chelford, pushing still further along the
Congleton road, we find yet another of the Cheshire meres, this one,
in itself in the time of water-lilies, worth all the travel. Reeds
Mere, famous in local fairy tale, is to the painter and the poet, when
the lilies are out, a floral Venice. Virtually, it is in Capesthorne
Park, the seat of one of the younger branches of the very ancient
Davenport family. To get to the water's edge, if time be short, the
nearest point to start from is Chelford, but the road above indicated
is so charmingly wooded, that not to go that way is distinctly a loss.
Chelford village may be reached by a field walk, commenced first below
Alderley church, crossing the meadow slantwise and leftwards, and so
past Heywood Hall, going presently through a plantation of Scotch firs.
Hard by there is another charming seat, with spacious park, rare trees,
and ornamental water--Astle Hall, the residence of Captain Dixon. In
the grounds we are reminded of Norcliffe, for here, too, is shown the
love of Conifers which always indicates good taste.
[Illustration]
Footnote
[14: See above, page 36.]
[Illustration]