BEAVER HATS--PISAN.

Allow me to say a few words in reply to your correspondent "GASTROS."

His quotation from Fairholt (_Costume in England_), who cites

Stubbes's _Anatomy of Abuses_ as the earliest authority for the use

of beaver hats in England, is not a satisfactory reply to my query;

inasmuch as I am aware that beaver hats were occasionally worn by

great people in this country some centuries before Stubbes was born.

For example, Henry III. possessed "unum capellum de Bevre cum apparatu

auri et lapidibus preciosis;" as appears from the "Wardrobe Account,"

of the 55th year of his reign. I have, therefore, still to ask for

the _earliest_ instance of the use of hats or caps of this material

in England; such hats, as well as gloves, are mentioned in several

English inventories made between the thirteenth and sixteenth

centuries. Is there any example earlier than the time of Henry III.?

"GASTROS" has also obligingly replied to my query as to "the meaning

of the term _Pisan_, used in old records for some part of defensive

armour," but he seems to have forgotten that I expressly stated that

term had no relation to "the fabrics of Pisa;" at least such is my

belief. With regard to the inventory of the arms and armour of Louis

le Hutin, taken in 1316, printed in Meyrick's _Ancient Armour_, to

which he kindly refers me, it may be observed that the said inventory

is so perversely translated in the first edition of that work (just

now I have no means of consulting the second), as to be all but

useless; indeed it might be termed one of the most extraordinary

literary performances of modern times, as the following instance

may suffice to show. One of the items of the inventory is, "une cote

gamboisée à arbroissiaus d'or broudées à chardonereus;" and it is thus

rendered into English, "a gamboised coat with a rough surface (like

a thicket;--_note_) of gold embroidered on the nap of the cloth!"

The real signification is "a gamboised coat embroidered in gold,

with little bushes (or trees), with gold-finches [on them]." But I

am rather wandering from my point: I never could ascertain on what

authority Sir Samuel Meyrick asserted that "jazeran armour," as

he calls it, was formed of "overlapping plates." The French word

_jazeran_ was derived from the Italian _ghiazarino_, or _ghiazzerino_,

which signified "a gorget of mail," or what some of our antiquaries

have termed "a standard of mail;" in France this word always preserved

its relation to mail, and in process of time came to be applied to

so lowly an object as a flagon-chain: see Cotgrave's _Fr. Dict._ ed.

1673. Roquefort, indeed, says a "jaserans" was a cuirass, but to

my apprehension the passage which he quotes from the _Roman

d'Alexandre_--

"Es haubers, _jazerans_, et ès elmes gemez"--

seems to prove that, in that instance at least, a gorget is meant.

At any rate, the translation of the passage in the inventory to which

"GASTROS" refers should be, "three Pisan collerets of steel mail," not

that given by Meyrick. Here we have clearly a fabric of Pisa: whereas

the _pisan_, of which I desire to know the meaning, invariable occurs

as an independent term, e.g. "_item, unum pisanum_," or "_unum par

pisanorum_." Of course I have my own conjecture on the subject, but

should be glad to hear other opinions; so I again put the question to

your correspondents. In conclusion I would observe to "GASTROS" that

they must be _very_ late MSS. indeed in which such a contraction as

_pisan_ for _partisan_ can be found. If you have room, and think it

worth while, I will from time to time send you some corrections of the

more flagrant errors of Meyrick.

Notes and Queries, Number 17, February 23, 1850 · 第 32 / 76 题