Advantages of early Travelling--Funelle--"A Traveller stopped at a
Widow's Gate"--Bright Eyes and Breakfast--Smiles and Sighs--The Fish
River--Cold Lodgings--Fowl Massacre--Bad Ways--Gigantic Ant-hills--The
Campos--Insect Warriors--Insinuating Visitors (Tick)--The Simpleton--
Bertioga--A Drunkard--Cold Shoulders--Mud Church--Feasting and Fasting;
or, the Fate of Tantalus--Method in a Slow March--Gentlemen Hungry and
Angry--No "Accommodation for Man or Horse"--A Practical Bull--Curtomi--
Hospitable Treatment at Grandie--Horse-dealer--A "Chance" Purchase--
Bivouac--Mule Kneeling--Sagacious Animal--Quilos--A Mist--Gold-washing
--Ora Branca--Hazardous Ascent of the Serra D'Ora Banca--Topaz District
--A Colonel the Host--Capoa--Jigger-hunters--Mineralogical Specimens--
Mortality of Animals--Pasturage--Account of Ora Prëta--Gold Essayed--
Halt--Journey resumed--Arrival at Gongo Soco
_Monday, August 4, 1828_.--Our muleteers had no small trouble to collect
their animals in readiness for us to start at the appointed time (four
in the morning); indeed, they had been full two hours beating about the
bush to get them together. Fortunately, however, these men go to rest so
early, that they think little of getting up in the middle of the night,
to collect and load their mules, which is a common occurrence, as an
early start is desirable for both man and beast, because two hours
travelling before sunrise, is not half so fatiguing as one hour after
it; the muleteers are also glad to promote any measure that will enable
them to complete their day's journey before sunset, that they may get
their supper and go to rest so soon as it is dark, which, in this
tropical region, is always at an early hour. Between nine and ten we
arrived at a venda, called Funelle, where we breakfasted on eggs and
milk, standing at a counter, there being no other apartments in this
small habitation, except the bed-room of a pretty young black-eyed
widow, who was laughing and flirting with our party the whole time we
remained. Having made but a third of our intended day's journey, we were
obliged to tear ourselves away from the interesting widow's
fascinations, greatly to the annoyance of some of my companions, who
would fain have prolonged the pleasure of her agreeable trifling:--but
_malgré_ the Loves and the Cupids, with the accompaniments of beauty's
witcheries, we were obliged to press forward, towards our quarters for
the night, which we proposed to take up at a house called Rosa Gomez,
six leagues from Funelle, and nine from Villa Prëta, making thirty-six
miles to-day. About a mile or two before we arrived at Rosa Gomez, we
passed the Fish River.
_Tuesday, August 5_.--We endured a very cold and comfortless night in
bad quarters, where, had it not been for the exertions of our own people
who were obliged to knock down a few wretched straggling fowls for our
use, we should not have been able to procure any thing either for
supper, or breakfast, except a disagreeable mess of flour and water.
The thermometer at daylight this morning was so low as 45° F., which
temperature we all felt keenly, especially as we had nothing but our
cloaks for our night covering, on cold and comfortless cane couches.
However, we did not set off till near eight o'clock, and after the sun
rises, the warmth rapidly increases. We made but a short journey to-day,
of two leagues and a half, for the roads were rugged and precipitous,
and intersected by several abrupt and broken streams, so that we were
obliged to be extremely cautious in our progress, and chary of the
services of our mules. We passed some very large ant-hills to-day, from
eight to twelve feet in height; the summits of which form excellent
arches for the tops of ovens, while slabs cut out of the more solid
parts, serve for the ends and sides.
_Wednesday, 6_.--We set out at daylight, leaving the woody country
behind us, and entering on the Campos, or Downs, where our annoyances
from the insect tribe commenced. The brushwood here being infested by
Tick and other tormentors, who mercilessly attacked our whole party,
mules included, insinuating themselves imperceptibly into our sleeves
and pantaloons, when burying their heads in our flesh, and feasting on
our blood, they made us acutely sensible of their presence, by the
intolerable irritation they produced: and from which we had no means of
escaping until the hour of disrobing for the night. After travelling
three leagues we stopped at a village called Souza, where we took
breakfast, the comfort of which meal was, however, destroyed, by the
importunate absurdities of an old man, half lunatic, half simpleton.
After breakfast we proceeded to Bertioga (three leagues and a half),
where we put up for the night. Soon after our arrival, several people
came hastily to Captain Lyon to complain of an Englishman, who was very
drunk, and had been making a great disturbance in their house. On
inquiry, the offender proved to be a blacksmith on his way to Gongo
Soco, he had been engaged by the agent for the Company, and sent off
from Rio, thirty-six days previously, which time he had wasted in
drunkenness and idleness, having only completed forty leagues of his
journey; Captain Lyon consequently ordered him to return to Rio, as the
specimen of ill conduct already given, shewed him to be unworthy of
being received into the Company's service.
Our accommodations to night were much us usual, mud floors, and our
cloaks for a covering. Total six leagues and a half to-day.
_Thursday, 7_.--We set off before daylight, which did not agree very
well with me, the morning air being still too keen for my lungs, which,
with a pain in my side, made me very unwell to-day. About noon we
stopped at a farm-house in a village, called Os Ilhos. There was a
church in progress here, the walls of which they were building with mud.
After refreshing ourselves, and our mules, for about an hour, we resumed
our journey toward a large farm, called Baroga, having made 24 miles
to-day. My companions fared sumptuously, as we had brought a turkey with
us from our last resting place, and with the addition of a roasting pig,
it made the grandest feast imaginable, and far exceeded any thing we had
met with since we left Rio de Janeiro; however, it proved a fast to me,
as I was obliged to take medicine, and leave them to their enjoyment.
Our host and hostess were plain honest good farming people, and appeared
desirous to do every thing they could for Captain Lyon, but for all
that, they could not be roused out of their accustomed methodical
manner, and the preparation of our meal was, to them, a business of
serious delay and labour.
And all entreaties were vain,
For they'd promise and promise again,
But still go on the same.
My friends, therefore, were compelled to take policy for their
counsellor, and patience for their remedy. The most provoking part of
the affair was, that they were expected to consider themselves obliged,
by the condescension of their hosts, in undertaking upon any terms to
minister to their necessities: consequently there was no possibility of
giving utterance to any hasty feelings of impatience; no opening for
those little outbreaks of anger so common to hungry gentlemen. These,
might they have been indulged, would have amused, as well as comforted
the sufferers, but unhappy travellers! they were compelled to
Let _keen hunger_, like a worm in the bud,
Feed on their _inner man_.
Here, however, our accommodations were quite superior, when compared
with what we had found at other resting-places; indeed they did not
profess to "_accommodate travellers_," an assurance which is I presume
intended to reconcile the guest to such reception as they choose to
give: but if these people are unwilling to "_profess_," they do not
allow their _scruples_ to limit their _expectations_; these are always
directed towards a recompense, which they are just as eager to receive
as those who accord more to the convenience of the stranger.
Their curiosity is also unparalleled, and when you dismount you are
received with a string of questions; respecting your health. Where you
have been? The news of Rio? Whom you have met on the road? Who are
expected to go up? or down the country? &c. &c. Having obtained all the
information your patience will grant, they at length begin to consider
what provision they can make for you, and generally commence operations
by slaughtering a few fowls, (or sometimes a turkey or a roasting pig;)
then a large pot of water must be boiled to dip the fowls in, by way of
removing the feathers in the most expeditious manner; a practical bull,
for if they plucked the birds the moment they were dead, and before the
body was allowed to cool, the process would be completed in less time
than they could boil the water. After this preparation, they proceed
with their tedious cookery, all of which is conducted in an equally
awkward manner. Sometimes after arriving in the evening, tired and
hungry, three or four hours elapsed, before any knives and forks were
put on the table, or any other visible progress made in the arrangement
of our meal: and not unfrequently my companions gave the matter up in
despair, and resigned themselves to sleep, while all were completely
worn out with waiting, long before the dinner appeared.
_Friday, 8_.--We set out at daylight, and about ten miles distance, we
stopped a short time at a farm house, named Curtomi; we then proceeded
ten miles further to Grandie. Just before we arrived at this place,
about four miles and a half distant, the road from Rio over the Campos,
and the Caminha Real, or Royal road, from Porta de Estrella meet,
forming one main road from hence into the interior. We stopped at a
large house, which belonged to very civil people, where we were well
lodged, and very hospitably entertained.
_Saturday, 9_.--We had a comfortable breakfast before we set off this
morning, and I felt much recruited to-day; we had also all the advantage
to be derived from the warm rays of the sun, as we did not start till
near eight o'clock. In the course of our journey this forenoon, we met a
horse dealer with a train of horses, on his way to Rio, when Mr. Sharpe
took a fancy to one, and purchased it for thirty-six milreas, in silver,
something less than five pounds sterling. From being purchased in this
accidental way, I suggested that the animal ought to be named "Chance,"
to which his master assented. In consequence of our wishing to avoid a
disagreeable old fellow, who kept a venda on the road side, we proceeded
a short distance beyond his domicile, and having previously provided our
refreshment, we sat down near the bank of a river to partake of it, at
about two o'clock in the afternoon.
On our journey afterwards, my poor mule was so thirsty, that he ran to a
little stream by the road-side, to drink, but as he could not
conveniently reach it standing, he very quietly went down on his knees,
upon which hint, I, of course, dismounted, until he had finished his
draught. This mule was the most docile, intelligent animal I ever rode,
and it was a knowledge of these good qualities, that induced Captain
Lyon to appropriate him to my use; I was frequently considerably in
advance of the party, without feeling any apprehension about my safety,
from the perfect confidence I reposed in the mule's sagacity. About five
in the afternoon, we arrived at the town of Qualos, where we were well
lodged, had good fare, and where the excellence of the bread was quite
remarkable, being superior to any I had tasted in the Brazils. This town
gives the title to a Marquess, but it is not of any importance in other
respects.
_Sunday, 10_.--We started long before daylight, and for two or three
hours rode through a mist, as cold and dense as a November one in
England, but after the sun had gained sufficient power to disperse it,
the day was proportionably hot. We this forenoon passed the first
gold-washing place of any consideration, which has, however, long since
been abandoned for others more profitable. About eleven, we arrived at
the village of Ora Branca, so called from the light colour of the gold
procured here, the gravel or sand of every stream, henceforward,
produces a greater or lesser proportion of gold.
The owner of the house where we refreshed, had a collection of
mineralogical specimens, which interested Captain Lyon very much, he
being himself a collector. At about a league distance, we commenced the
ascent of the Serra D'Ora Branca, which was almost impracticable even
for our mules. It is so steep and difficult, that it is the universal
custom to dismount, to which, I believe, I formed the only exception, an
undertaking of considerable hazard to ride either up, or down, this
mountain. At about a league beyond the summit, on the opposite side, we
entered what is called the Topaz District, where we soon passed many
washings for Topazes, and put up for the night at the celebrated one of
Capoa, where we were not very well entertained, although the proprietor
of this venda was a Colonel in the Brazilian militia. It is the general
custom, while travelling in this country, for the inhabitants to bring
you a panela, or large bowl of hot water, every night, when you are
going to bed, for your feet, and it is usual to have a black man in
attendance, for the purpose of examining the feet, and extracting the
jiggers with a needle, at which operation they are very expert.
_Monday, 11_.--Although our journey on this day, was only intended to be
three leagues to the imperial city of Ora Prëta (Black Gold), the Villa
Rica (Rich City) of the maps, capital of the mining districts, we set
off at daylight, and arrived about ten at the house that is kept for the
use of the Gongo Soco Mining Company. The gold that is collected at the
Gongo Soco mines, is sent from time to time to the mint at this place,
where it is essayed and melted into bars, the government reserving, a
tax of 25 per cent. before it is suffered to be transmitted to Rio. On
leaving Capoa this morning, we visited several mud huts in the village,
and neighbourhood, in search of those mineralogical specimens, which are
commonly known in this country by the name of Raridadës.
During our route, but more especially before we arrived at the Campos,
not a day passed without our meeting droves of oxen and pigs as well
as many troops of loaded mules, with coffee, cotton, sugar, &c. all
proceeding from the interior for Rio; and our olfactory nerves were not
unfrequently assailed by a very offensive odour, arising from dead
animals, principally oxen, among whom there is usually a great mortality
on these journeys, in consequence of excessive fatigue from travelling
500 or 600 miles, as also from the bad and insufficient pasturage they
find on their road. When these unfortunate animals sink down under their
sufferings, they are left to die, and putrify on the spot where they
happen to fall. These cattle are chiefly brought from the Sertao, which
is a wild country beyond the mountains of the gold district, intervening
between it and the diamond district, which is a fine pasture country,
but with few habitations. The term Sertao, however, is general all over
the interior of Brazil, for inland places unredeemed by culture. Ora
Prëta is the most considerable town that we have yet met with, and it
owes it respectability and extent to the circumstance of its being the
town residence of the proprietors of gold mines, dealers in precious
stones, &c; and there is an Imperial Mint, with a government essayer
settled here, for the purpose of examining all the gold produced from
the mines, causing it to be melted and stamped, and a duty of 25 per
cent. taken from it for the Government.
This duty had, a short time previous to my visit, been reduced to 10 per
cent. for Brazilian subjects, the Government, however, continued to
exact 25 per cent, from Gongo Soco, or the Imperial British Brazilian
Mining Company; although, in their charter from the Brazilian
Government, it was understood, if not expressed, that the Company should
be allowed to work their mines on the same terms with the Brazilians,
however advantageous those terms might happen to be: at the time the
charter was granted, the Brazilians paid 25 per cent.; but after their
neglecting several mines, they petitioned the Government for a reduction
of duty, on the plea, that it was too high, to allow them a profit on
their expenses. The Government, upon this application, consented to
receive only ten per cent. from their own subjects, but absolutely
refused to accord to the British Mining Company any reduction of the
original duty.
Captain Lyon found it necessary to pass a couple of days here, to
transact some business; this proved a seasonable rest, particularly for
our mules, who had been worked fifteen days in succession.
_Tuesday, August 14_.--We this morning renewed our journey for Gongo
Soco, and immediately on leaving Ora Prëta, began to ascend the
Ferreiria (Iron Mountain). After having rode over the top of it for
about six miles, we descended by a very steep and dangerous road, the
bed of a great part of which was composed of ironstone rock: very few
persons ever venture to ride down it; for, in case a mule should lose
its footing, both the animal and its rider would be hurled down a
precipice, so gigantic, that the state of their remains could not even
be ascertained. Our mules were, at times, on their haunches, actually
sliding over the rocky surface of the road, and although Captain Lyon
had travelled this path several times, he had never ventured to ride
down it before: but not knowing any better way to manage me and my mule,
than by allowing us to follow him mounted, down the hill, he most kindly
braved the danger for my sake, and I resigned myself to the intelligence
of my mule, who very soon assumed the entire control of his own conduct,
shaking his head whenever he felt the reins tighter than convenient, and
picking his way with all imaginable care: I always found, when the
ground appeared uncertain, that the sagacious animal would pause, and
putting out his foot, discover, by scratching, whether the ground might
be trusted, before he would advance a step further.
After leaving the mountain, we arrived at the village of Antonio
Ferreira, which is ten miles from Ora Prëta. At this village, the
Company have some landed property, which they intended to mine, but they
had not yet commenced their operations. From thence we passed on to
Inficionado, where the Company have another estate, Ceta Prëta. The road
from Antonio Ferreira to this place, was very hilly and circuitous, as
well as very bad in particular places. We arrived about sunset, and got
comparatively well lodged, by some of the Company's servants, who reside
here to look after the estate: it had produced a little gold, but the
quantity was not considered sufficient to induce them to prosecute their
operations; and the people were consequently ordered to return to Gongo.
_Friday, 15_.--We breakfasted with Mr. and Mrs. Bilden (one of the
clerks of the Gongo establishment); and about nine miles distant we
stopped to refresh, at the village of Catas Altas; where we had tidings
by an _avant courier_ from Gongo, that the heads of the mining
department were on their way to receive their chief (Captain Lyon), at
Brunado, which is about twelve miles from the establishment; and we
accordingly met them. After an exchange of civilities, we all proceeded
in grand cavalcade, towards Gongo, Lieutenant Tom, of the navy
(Lieutenant-Governor), and myself, leading the way. On our arrival, we
were received with cheers and gratulations, from all the individuals in
the establishment; and the day concluded by an entertainment to the
officers, given by Captain Lyon, at the government-house.
Having arrived at this point of my journey, which brings me to a new and
interesting scene, I pause to look back upon the past, and to prepare
for the future. The traveller must rest in his book, as well as in his
route, and, bespeaking the reader's favour for the sequel of my
adventures and researches in the Gold Mines, I take my leave for the
present--hoping that the perusal of my discursive journal, may prove but
one-half as entertaining to others, as the consolatory resource of
producing it has been pleasurable to myself.