Scarcity of Provisions in Fernando Po--Diet of the Natives--Their
Timidity--Its probable Cause--The Recovery of a Liberated African
Deserter--Departure from Fernando Po--Reflections on the Uses of
the Settlement--Causes of Failure--Insalubrity of the Climate--
Probabilities of Improvement--Arrival off the mouth of the Camaroon
River--Chase of a Brigantine--Her Capture--Her suspicious Appearance--
Slave Accommodations--Pirates of the North Atlantic Ocean--Prince's
Island--Visit to the Governor--Drunken Frolic of a Marine--Provisions
--Delicious Coffee--Account of the Town--Population--Varieties of
Colour in the Inhabitants--West-bay--Inhospitality of the Governor and
Merchants--Visit to a Brazilian Brigantine--Difficulty of obtaining
a Passage to Angola--Departure of the Emprendadora--The Eden leaves
Prince's Island--Crossing the Equinoctial Line--Dolphin and
Flying-fish--Trade-winds--Ascension Island at Daybreak--Landing--
Description of the Settlement--Turtle--Goats' Flesh--Abundant Poultry
--Island Game--Aboriginal Foes--Unfaithful Friends--Gladiatorial
Sports--Privileges of Settlers--Traffic--Roads--Water--Culture of
Soil--Produce--Vegetables--Live Stock--Population--Employments--Hours
of Labour--Recreations--Departure from the Island--Recollections of
Ascension on a former Voyage--Dampier, the Navigator--The Variables--
An Affidavit on Crossing the Line--Change of Weather--Dutch Galliot--
Passage for the Brazils--Parting of Friends
_Saturday, May 17, 1828_.--Mr. Craig, who had come from Sierra Leone to
set up a store, went into the country with a native chief this
afternoon, for the purpose of procuring palm-oil. He returned, however,
the next evening, very much fatigued and disappointed; for he not only
found the journey very harassing, in consequence of the badness of the
paths, but discovered that his mercantile project was fruitless, owing
to the poverty of the natives. Indeed, the people of Fernando Po are
less abundantly supplied with provisions than the nations of Africa in
general; their principal dependance being on yams, which are, of course,
liable to occasional failure. They have very little live stock of any
kind, and the chiefs alone appear to indulge in the luxury of animal
food. It is only on particular occasions, however, that they treat
themselves to a goat, or sheep, as they are principally confined to
fowls. That they are not plentifully supplied with fish, is owing solely
to their own negligence, as there are abundance to be had by those who
take the trouble of toiling for them; but for many days together, not a
canoe was to be seen. It is difficult to ascertain the cause of this
strange indifference; it may be that they are afraid to venture out to
sea, and this is not unlikely, as they appeared, on our first arrival,
to entertain much apprehension at the sight of a strange vessel on their
coast; but, as they became accustomed to our presence, and began to
entertain a feeling of confidence and protection in our friendship, this
diffidence gradually wore off. It cannot be doubted, that their island
has often been visited by vessels engaged in the slave-trade, as well as
by men-of-war. A circumstance occurred a few years ago, which proves
that they are not without hostile visitors; and which, in some measure,
justifies the suspicions with which they regard all strangers. In the
year 1820, or 1821, a Spanish vessel came over from the Camaroon river
to this island, accompanied by King Aqua, with a number of war canoes,
for the purpose of decoying the natives, or, in the event of failing in
their artifice, to adopt hostile measures, with the ultimate view of
seizing upon all they could capture, and selling them for slaves. They
accordingly landed well armed, but met with a stout resistance, which
proved, however, unavailing, the invaders succeeding in making about 150
prisoners, whom they carried off to the West Indies, and killing as many
more in the skirmish. It is supposed that King Aqua received very little
reward for his services on the occasion, or for the loss his subjects
sustained in the fight. This anecdote was related to me by Captain
Cumings, of the Kent, who was trading on the opposite coast for
palm-oil, at the time it occurred.
_Thursday, 22_.--The Horatio, schooner (Eden's tender), arrived this
afternoon with only her foremast standing, having lost her mainmast in a
tornado. Mr. Craig has just opened his general store, which, with
Captain Smith's, forms the second mercantile establishment in this
infant settlement.
_Friday, 23_.--Mr. Adamson, the assistant-surgeon of the Eden, who had
the charge of the hospital, as well as of the mechanics and labourers of
the settlement, and who had resided on shore for the purpose of giving
them his constant attendance, was sent on board the Eden to-day, in
consequence of an attack of fever, which lasted five days.
_Thursday, 29_.--The weather has continued unsettled; sometimes clear
and hot; sometimes cloudy and close; with alternate rain and cold. We
fired a royal salute to-day on Adelaide Island, in commemoration of the
Restoration.
_Friday, 30_.--One of the liberated Africans from the Voador, was
brought in this morning by one of our black masons, having been absent,
with three of his companions, ever since he was landed. We learned, that
he, and his party, had lived in the bush by day, emerging at night to
steal yams, and proceed on their journey, until, after an absence of
four weeks, being at some distance up the mountain, they were fiercely
attacked by the natives with spears, and stones thrown from slings. In
this rencontre, one of them was killed, and another taken prisoner;
while he, and his remaining companion, effected their escape, by taking
different directions: they never, it appeared, met afterwards. From this
circumstance, it is evident that the islanders are unwilling to give
shelter to runaways; an occurrence by no means unsatisfactory, as the
newly liberated Africans desert very frequently, and sometimes in small
troops, so many as nine having been known to go away together.
_Saturday, 31_.--Captain Harrison, the superintendant of works, who had,
up to this time, been living on board the Eden, gave a dinner to Captain
Owen and a select party, at his new residence on shore to-day, to which
I had the pleasure of being invited; but, alas! like most of those who
accompanied the first part of the expedition to this settlement, his
services have since terminated with his life.
The master of the ship Agnes, of Liverpool, trading for palm-oil, in the
Old Calabar river, arrived in his long-boat this afternoon, for the
purpose of obtaining men from Captain Owen, to navigate the Agnes to
England, part of his crew having previously entered for and joined
H.M.S. Eden.
_Sunday, June, 1_.--There has been scarcely a day during the last
fortnight, that some vessel has not arrived at, or left the settlement,
and one or more been seen in the offing; in fact, the little colony
appears to become extensively known already, and it is expected that the
large palm-oil vessels will find it more to their advantage to anchor in
Maidstone Bay, and carry on their trade with their tenders only, than to
take their vessels up the river, where the long period occupied in
procuring their cargoes, affords time for the men to imbibe the
pestilential disorders of the climate, frequently occasioning the
sacrifice of many lives.
_Tuesday, 3_.--The day at last arrived on which I was to quit Fernando
Po. Captain Owen, finding his crew much reduced in numbers from
sickness, which appeared unlikely to diminish, and fearing also, that
his operations would be retarded for the want of stores, determined to
make a visit to Sierra Leone; by this step, hoping to re-establish the
health of his men, and to procure the necessaries of which the Colony
stood in need. Accordingly, making the requisite arrangements on the
establishment, and committing it entirely to the charge of Captain
Harrison, he got under weigh in the afternoon, when we made sail out of
Maidstone Bay, and stood for the opposite coast, with the Agnes'
long-boat in tow.
On looking back at this incipient colony, and reflecting upon the
probabilities of its future destiny, a few thoughts arise, which this
appears to be the proper place for inserting.
The formation of a new settlement amongst an uncivilized people must
always be an event of interest, whether we regard it in a political or
moral point of view, as extending the power of the parent nation, or
spreading the advantages of improvement in regions hitherto sunk in the
darkness of barbaric ignorance. The objects proposed by the British
Government in establishing a colony at Fernando Po appear to have been
three-fold, and not less connected with political than moral results.
First, to create facilities for promoting our commercial relations with
the districts of tropical Africa, in which many valuable necessaries and
costly luxuries are produced.
Second, to assist in carrying into effect the wise and benevolent
regulations adopted by our Government for the suppression of the
slave-trade, which has been so long the scourge and disgrace of our
fellow men in this portion of the globe.
Third, to increase the means of advancing the civilization of central
Africa.
The determination to endeavour to carry these leading objects into full
effect, is sufficiently evidenced in the perseverance with which our
Government has established the British name on the African Coast, in our
different settlements at Sierra Leone, Cape Coast Castle, and other
places. We have made as yet but slight progress towards the completion
of designs so comprehensive in their purpose, we must look for the
causes in impediments which time alone can conquer, and not in any lack
of zeal on the part of those who were appointed to execute the plans of
the Government. If firm resolution, meritorious conduct, and
indefatigable diligence could have mastered the difficulties which meet
the English residents on this insalubrious shore, the ends which it was
desirable to attain must have been speedily accomplished: but
unfortunately the laws of nature and the force of habit oppose us at the
very threshold of our proceedings, and seem almost to render our labour
a work of despair.
All our attempts to penetrate into Africa, to establish a friendly
intercourse with the people, and to abolish the traffic in human life
are repelled, and frequently rendered abortive, by the fatal influence
of the climate, and the obstinate resistance of the natives to our
projects of liberty, which they oppose because they derive a lucrative
source of income from the slave-trade, while habit has made them
insensible to its ignominies and miseries. This opposition to our
progress would be of no moment, if the barbarous notions of the people
were not favoured by the repulsive nature of the climate, which is even
more pernicious than we originally believed when we ventured to form a
British settlement within its range. It is so unpropitious to European
life that the pestilential breath of death may be said to lurk in every
calm, and to be wafted in every gale.
It has been supposed, and not without reason, that much of the
insalubrity of the climate may be referred to local causes, and that if
the soil could be completely cleared and drained, the operations of the
air in the redeemed space would expel, or reduce, the baneful influences
that at present produce such extensive mortality. But this would be a
labour demanding almost an incalculable and indefinite period of time,
and which the difficulty of procuring sufficient manual power must
always render nearly impossible, to any great extent.
Hitherto, the situation and prospects of the settlement of Fernando Po
have been discouraging, in consequence of the disease having been more
universal in its ravages than we had anticipated. But it must not,
therefore, be supposed that the place is more unhealthy than other parts
on the coast, or even that the deaths which occurred, during the period
to which I more particularly allude, were occasioned by the insalubrity
of the situation. When the crew of the Eden suffered so much from fever,
it broke out on board of that vessel while she was at Sierra Leone, and
several of the officers and men died before she returned to Fernando Po:
the mortality that ensued was in a great measure caused by the contagion
which the infected sailors spread at the settlement. Several vessels
also arrived before I left the Colony with invalids on board, but the
deaths that took place in their number, certainly ought not to be
introduced into the argument against the insalubrity of the island.
That Fernando Po must always be liable to considerable atmospheric
changes, and become, at particular seasons, very unhealthy, there cannot
be a doubt: but that is invariably the case in all low situations within
the tropics, on the west coast of Africa, where the decomposition of
animal and vegetable matter is so rapid in its progress. But the insular
situation of Fernando Po, with its many local advantages and
peculiarities, may ultimately have the effect of diminishing the
production of miasmata, or at least of correcting their deleterious
qualities, and preventing such immense and dangerous accumulations, as
have on the adjacent continent produced so great a loss of European
life.
_Wednesday, 4_.--At daylight we cast off the Agnes' long-boat, leaving
her to prosecute her voyage up the Calabar to her own ship, while we
stood to the eastward.
_Thursday, 5_.--Unsettled weather. In the afternoon we anchored off the
mouth of the Camaroon river, where Lieutenant Badgeley and Mr. Wood
went, in separate boats, to examine the river, for slave-vessels.
_Saturday, 7_.--Soon after daylight this morning our boats returned,
reporting that there was a Brazilian brig, at anchor, some distance up
the Camaroon river, waiting for a cargo of slaves; and a Brazilian
schooner at the Island of Bimbia, near the entrance of the river, on the
same service. At noon we got under weigh, and stood to the southward.
_Wednesday, 11_.--Lat. 2°. 4'. N. Wind from S.S.W. to W.S.W. Tacked and
sounded occasionally, working up to Prince's Island, and also in chase
of a brigantine.
_Thursday, 12_.--At 10 in the forenoon we tacked to the southward in
hopes of falling in with the brigantine, which we supposed had stood
toward the land in the night, and at noon our expectations were
realized: we also saw her in a more favourable point for pursuit, she
being a little under our lee. Finding that she could not escape us, she
put a good face on the matter, and continued to stand towards us.
Between one and two o'clock we sent a boat's-crew on board to examine
her. She proved to be the Emprendadora, a Spanish brigantine from the
Havannah, well armed, mounting one long eighteen-pounder on a swivel,
and four 12 lb. carronades, and having thirty-two persons on board. Her
outfit and general appearance were extremely suspicious, for she had not
only a slave-deck, with irons, &c., but also two slaves, secreted in the
forehold, from whom we learnt that they had been stolen from Po-Po, near
Wydah. She had also a quantity of merchandise on board, without having
any Custom-house certificate of clearance from the Havannah, or indeed
any other account of it, which circumstances led us to believe that it
had been plundered from some American vessel. It was evident that she
had been along the Gold Coast, and round the Bights of Benin and Biafra.
The Captain stated that he was going to Prince's Island to procure
anchors, having only one remaining, and that one, with but a single
fluke to it. We afterwards learnt from the crew that he had endeavoured
to enter the river Lagos, but had been fired on and forced to retire, by
several Brazilian vessels lying there at the time. We conjectured that
she had left the West Indies, on a pretence of going to the coast of
Africa, upon a slaving voyage, without any cargo, except perhaps a small
quantity of specie, in dollars and gold, but carrying an efficient crew,
composed of persons from various nations, and a good stock of
provisions. Vessels, thus equipped, frequently traverse these seas, and
being generally very fast sailers, they contrive to keep away from ships
better armed than themselves, and to board only those that they can
approach, or run away from, at convenience; when convinced that they are
not likely to encounter any resistance, they plunder such vessels at
their pleasure: but should they arrive on the coast of Africa, without
having succeeded in obtaining plunder on their voyage to enable them to
purchase slaves, they entrap and steal such negroes as they can get into
their power, and then return to the West Indies to dispose of their
slave cargo. This is the general character of these pirates, that are
occasionally met in different parts of the North Atlantic Ocean, and
also about the equinoctial line. I have heard numerous instances of
vessels, from Europe, bound to these latitudes, meeting on their voyages
with one or more of such vessels. Prison ships going to New South Wales
have been followed by them; and scrutinized with spy glasses from their
decks: but they have never yet ventured to attack a prison-ship, the
sight of soldiers being quite enough to deter them from any hostile
attempt. Indeed, I believe the best plan in meeting these marauders is,
to assume as bold an air, and make as much show of resistance as
possible. Knowing the character of these craft, Captain Owen thought it
right to detain the brigantine, and therefore sent Lieut. Robinson, Mr.
Wood, midshipman, and twenty-two men, to take her into Sierra Leone, for
adjudication. In the evening we parted company, but expected to find her
at our rendezvous in Prince's Island.
_Saturday, 14_.--At daylight saw Prince's Island, towards which we
continued to make our course. At eight came to anchor in Port Antonio,
where we found Lieutenant Robinson with the captured brigantine, and
also the Vengeance, a Brazilian brigantine on a slaving voyage, which
had put in for Cassada root, or Mandioc, upon which these people
principally feed their slaves. After breakfast I accompanied Captain
Owen on shore to wait on the Governor, who received us very politely,
and introduced us to his lady and family. On leaving the Government
House, we proceeded to that of Mr. Ferraro, who was said to be the
richest and only respectable merchant here, but he had gone into the
country; we therefore walked about the town until our curiosity was
satisfied. There were no inns in the place, only some public houses,
where nothing could be got but spirits, and inferior wines. The sailors,
however, considered it a very civilized place, because it afforded them
the means of getting most agreeably drunk, a feat which they could not
accomplish at Fernando Po. Captain. Owen having allowed some of his men
to go on shore for amusement, one of the marines contrived to get into a
drunken frolic, and was so troublesome, that it puzzled the whole guard
of black soldiers to secure him. I regret to remark that in many foreign
places, the people intentionally lead our sailors into disputes, merely
to obtain a fee for releasing them.
_Sunday, 15_.--After divine service, I accompanied Captain Owen in a
walk to a negro village, about two or three miles distant, and to which
there was no distinct road, but merely a rough irregular path. There was
little of interest to be seen there, and scarcely any refreshment to be
procured; the blacks brought us a few young cocoanuts, of which we drank
the milk. The only fruits to be had on the island, were pine-apples,
plantains, bananas, lemons, limes, and a few more common kinds, all of
which the blacks brought to the ship in their own boats; as also
vegetables, namely, pumpkins, onions, cucumbers, tomatos, &c. The
oranges do not come into season until September. The principal
plantations were mandioc and coffee, and there was also a small quantity
of cocoa; the coffee is rather celebrated for its flavour and quality.
The prices vary a good deal, but we found the average from eight to
twelve pounds for a dollar. The natives both roast, and sell, their
coffee with a pellicle over the berry, and I should imagine it is to
this circumstance that its singularly delicious flavour may be
attributed. We found the place very gay, it being the festival of St.
Antonio, the patron saint, which, considering it is a Portuguese town,
and situated in such a demi-civilized part of the world, may be called
rather a neat one. It contained about twelve hundred houses, and seven
churches, most of these, however, were in a miserable state. There were
not more than fifty Europeans on the island, the whole population of
which does not exceed four thousand. The principal part of these were
negroes, who, of course, were slaves[39], and the remainder were of
different shades from black to white. This island has still the
character of slave-dealing, in a small way, with some of the African
nations. One of the gentlemen of the Eden, rode across the island to
West-bay, about six miles distant, but the road was a mere footpath, and
scarcely entitled to be considered a bridle-road. West-bay is where our
men-of-war, on the African station, generally anchor to procure water.
It is a place of no consequence, in a mercantile point of view, as it
consists merely of a small negro village. We heard that the great
merchant, Mr. Ferraro, had been at his house in town to-day, but he left
it again without having shewn the courtesy to return Captain Owen's
visit; perhaps, he feared that such an effort of politeness might lead
to a demand upon his hospitality, a virtue for which the Portuguese are
not very remarkable, especially in their intercourse with Englishmen; in
this respect, the Governor was no less a niggard of his attentions than
the rest of his countrymen, giving no invitation either to Capt. Owen or
any of his officers, whose ceremonious visit cost him, no doubt,
infinite annoyance, as, upon that occasion, his Excellency was obliged
to appear clean shaved, and in his full uniform, a laborious sacrifice
to cleanliness and grandeur, at the expense of his accustomed habits of
luxurious indolence and personal ease.
We found the latitude of Port Antonio, by a good observation with stars,
to be 1°. 38'. N. while, in most books on navigation, it is laid down in
1°. 27'. N.
_Monday, 16_.--Visited the Brazilian brigantine (Vengeance), with Signor
Begaro, who was sailing-master of the Voador, slave-schooner, taken by
Lieutenant Badgeley, in the Eden's boat, in company with the African,
schooner. This gentleman had prevailed on his countrymen to accommodate
him on board, for a passage to the Brazils, however, they had first to
procure their cargo of slaves; and told us, that they were going
southward of the line for them, but we thought, if that were the case,
they would not have come to the northward of the line, merely to get
provisions.[40] From this circumstance, we suspected it to be their
intention to go to the Camaroon, or some other river in that direction,
where slaves are not above one-third of the price that they are to the
south of the line, and where children (which they always prefer to
adults) are also more easily procured. Could I have believed their
assurance that they were southward bound, I should have endeavoured to
have made arrangements with the captain to take me with him, being
anxious to get to St. Paul de Loando, for the purpose of visiting
different parts of Angola, and in which view I had prepared myself with
a letter of introduction to the Viceroy of that country, from a
distinguished person in England: but although I had been about seven
months at Fernando Po, and other parts of the Bight of Biafra, I had
never met with an opportunity for proceeding to Angola; I was therefore
obliged to leave that place out of my plan, and to make the Brazils the
next point in my route; with this intention I thought it most desirable
to return to Sierra Leone with Captain Owen, where I might meet with a
captured slave-vessel, that had been bought up by the agents, to be sent
to some part of the Brazils, from whence there would be no difficulty in
my ultimately reaching Rio de Janeiro.
Captain Owen had a Portuguese Abbe, Signor Begaro, and some of his
officers, to dine with him to-day.
_Tuesday, 17_.--As it was Captain Owen's intention to visit Ascension
before he went to Sierra Leone, we parted company with the Emprendadora,
desiring Lieutenant Robinson to make the best of his way to the latter
place; she accordingly sailed this morning at daylight, passing round to
leeward of the island, while we followed soon after, with the intention
of working to windward.
_Wednesday, 18_.--We had a fine fresh breeze, veering between S. and
S.W., and kept our course to the westward. Lat. 1°. 0'. N. On getting
into the open sea, we found the weather much colder than it was at
Fernando Po, notwithstanding we were 3°. nearer the equinoctial line,
than at the former place, while the thermometer for the last twenty-four
hours, has only ranged from 74°. to 78°. F. Indeed, it is very commonly
remarked, that the poor slaves brought from the Bights of Benin and
Biafra, for the Brazils, suffer dreadfully from the cold, when they get
into the open sea, and approach the line.
_Thursday, 19_.--There was a fine southerly breeze to-day, and we
crossed the equinoctial line this forenoon, without observing the usual
custom of shaving, having gone through that ceremony on passing the
tropic, before we arrived at Sierra Leone, not expecting, at that time,
the Eden would have occasion to cross the equinoctial line. Latitude, at
noon, 0° 6'. S. steering W. by S. with the wind south. There have been
numberless flying-fish, with a few bonetas and dolphins sporting round
the ship at times, to-day; men-of-war are not very successful in taking
these fish, but in a low, dull sailing merchant-vessel, it is otherwise,
particularly if she is not coppered, and has been sometime in a warm
climate. I consider the dolphin and flying-fish to be exceedingly
palatable food, but the boneta is strongly flavoured, and very close
grained, approaching to the solidity of animal flesh.
_Sunday, 21_.--Latitude, at noon, 28°. 19'. S. Still a fresh trade-wind,
but as we advanced from the Bight of Biafra into the Southern Atlantic
Ocean, increasing our distance, at the same time, from the continent of
Africa, we found the wind gradually drawing from the westward of south,
to the eastward of south, until it arrived at that point (S.E.), which
is the prevailing trade-wind of the Southern Atlantic, from the
equinoctial line to about the 28th degree of south latitude, varying a
few degrees from these extremes, according to the season of the year.
Being now in the regular trade-wind, I shall not think it necessary to
trouble my readers with any farther remarks on the common routine of the
duties of a ship, until we come within sight of Ascension,
Whose rocky shores to the glad sailor's eye
Reflect the gleams of morning.
Having run for this little island in the middle of the ocean, during the
night, we saw it immediately on the break of day, of _Wednesday, 25th_,
within a mile of the computed distance, viz. three or four leagues. At
eight, we anchored in N.W. Bay, in eleven fathoms water, about half a
mile from the landing-place, when the Governor, Lieut.-Colonel Nichols,
came on board; and after breakfast. Captain Owen and myself accompanied
him on shore, in the gig. We landed with facility, there being very
little surf, and some marines ready to run the boat upon the beach the
moment she touched the ground. The officers of the establishment were
prepared to receive us, and we were introduced to them individually. We
first visited the mess-room, which, with some apartments attached to it
for the officers' quarters, is one of three buildings that are distinct
from the general establishment, called Regent Square. The second
building is a store-house, containing provisions for the African
squadron, as well as the persons employed on the island; and the third,
a house that was built for the Governor, but which Colonel Nichols
allows Lieutenant Stanwell to reside in, he being a married man, with a
family of five children. One part of Regent Square is composed of the
barracks for the marines, and the other for the liberated Africans that
are employed on the island. All these buildings are of stone, which is
the cheapest material that can be procured. The coral that is found on
the beach, makes excellent lime, and enhances the utility of the
quarries. It is fortunate that the island contains these resources, as
it is entirely destitute of brick and timber. There was a tank of
considerable size in progress, not far from the establishment; close to
the landing-place there was a large pond of salt water for keeping the
turtle which are taken during the season, for supplies to the shipping,
&c.; there were about eighty turtles in it, at the time of our arrival.
Colonel Nichols, Captain Owen, and myself, dined with. Mr. and Mrs.
Stanwell, where, among other things, we had a large loin of wether goat,
which, in my opinion, was equal to the finest mutton; indeed, had it
been called mutton, I should not have known the difference, it was so
fat and highly flavoured. There are about six hundred goats on the
island, who are allowed to wander in herds, browsing on the sides of the
hills, and feeding on whatever herbage they can procure in the valleys.
In this way, no doubt, they pick up many aromatic herbs,[41] which give
a peculiarly fine flavour to the meat; but the flesh of goats, is not
the only description of fresh provisions on the island. Those who reside
here, are much better provided, in this particular, than people in
England imagine, for there is a moderate supply of cattle and sheep, for
general consumption, while most individuals have their own private stock
of domestic poultry. Turkeys arid fowls thrive well here; but geese and
ducks, very indifferently, from the want of fresh streams and pools, so
necessary to their nature, in consequence of which they lay their eggs,
but do not produce young. They have also a few goats, and abundance of
guinea fowls,[42] in a wild state, which, in flavour, greatly surpass
those that have been domesticated; and some of the domestic poultry of
the gallinaceous tribe, that have returned to their aboriginal state.
These three species of Ascension game, with the hunting of wild cats,
occasionally afford no little amusement to the officers of the
establishment. A number of cats were originally introduced; in their
tame state, to destroy the rats, which, at one period, overran the
island; but, after routing the rats, the cats, like the Saxons of old,
finding themselves masters of the soil, became greater usurpers than the
foes whom they had been called in to vanquish. These treacherous
animals, and most unworthy allies, discovering that they could sustain
themselves in freedom, without the aid of the biped population, fled
into the least inhabited parts of the island, where they lived most
royally upon young guinea fowl, and other wild poultry; regaling
themselves occasionally upon eggs, or such other dainties as fell in the
way of their most destructive claws. So numerous had this band of
quadruped freebooters become, at the time of our visit, that the
inhabitants had been compelled to call in the assistance of a number of
dogs,[43] for the purpose of putting them to flight; and the gentlemen
sportsmen of the island declare, that a battle between these belligerent
powers and natural enemies presents a scene of unusual excitement and
interest to the lovers of animal gladiatorship.
The sale of spirits is prohibited on the island, but each man may
purchase one pint of brown stout per diem. Butter, cheese, and other
little comforts, were to be procured from a stock that had been sent out
by dealers in England; having, it is said, ten per cent. profit on their
exportation, and two per cent. to the corporal who took charge of its
disposal. It had no freightage to pay, as the owners were allowed the
privilege of sending it out in a transport, which annually brings stores
to the island; and, I was informed, that the British Government allowed
the Governor to exchange turtle with any vessel for such necessaries, or
temperate luxuries, that may be required by the establishment.
The turtle season here, is considered to be the interval between
Christmas and Midsummer-day, during which time parties are stationed
almost every night on each of the beaches,[44] where the turtle are
known to land, for the purpose of depositing their eggs; upon these
occasions, they turn as many as are likely to be required for the use of
the establishment, until the following season, and also for the shipping
that may call for them; these are kept in the pond, to be taken out at
pleasure: two pounds of turtle is allowed as a substitute for one pound
of ordinary meat.[45] The Wide-awakes, or Kitty-wakes,[46] as sailors
call them, are also very numerous, both on the rocks and plains, in the
laying and breeding season: and, consequently, an immense number of eggs
are deposited, which are much used by the persons on the island.
We returned on board for the night, to avoid putting the officers to an
inconvenience for our accommodation.
_Thursday, 26_.--We went on shore to breakfast, landing in a smaller
boat to-day than yesterday, namely, a four-oared gig instead of a larger
one with six, and yet we landed with more ease. About eleven o'clock, I
accompanied Colonel Nichols and Captain Owen on horseback to visit the
Colonel's residence on Green Mountain, distant about six miles from
Regent Square. The roads have been made with a great deal of labour
under the direction of the Colonel, and considering circumstances, there
is no little credit due to that officer for his indefatigable exertions,
and perseverance in accomplishing what would, to ordinary minds, have
appeared impracticable. When about four miles from Regent Square we
arrived at Dampier's Spring, a stream of water that might pass through
an ordinary sized goose quill, and if allowed to spread over the surface
of the ground in some climates, would evaporate as quickly as it flowed,
but here, conducted into a cask, it affords no inconsiderable portion of
the supply at Regent's Square. It is sent down in barrels on the backs
of asses, or mules, and served out by measure, according to the quantity
procured. There were a few habitations near this spring, cut out of the
solid rock, for the residence of soldiers who were stationed here, with
their wives and families. From Dampier's Spring we continued to ascend
about two miles further, when we arrived at the Colonel's dwelling
(which consisted merely of a ground floor), from whence all sterility
ceases, the space between it and the top of the mountain being covered
with a fine rich mould, partly cultivated with sweet potatoes, and
partly covered with wild herbage, amongst which the Cape gooseberry is
very abundant; this is an agreeable subacid fruit, pleasant to eat when
ripe, and useful in a green state for tarts, &c.
Before dinner I took an opportunity of walking to the top of the hill,
which is the highest on the island, being 800 feet above the Colonel's
house, and 2,849 feet above the level of the sea.
After dinner Lieutenant Badgeley, Dr. Burn, and Lieutenant Carrington of
the Marines, left us to return by way of Regent Square, to the Eden.
These three gentlemen have all, since that time, paid the debt of nature
on board that ship. I accompanied Mr. Butter round the side of the
Mountain to the Black Rock, beneath which stretched a wide and deep
valley. In this walk we passed various spots set apart for the
cultivation of vegetables, to which the soil is exceedingly favourable,
while the deposition of night dews, with light showers, and a genial
climate, all combine to render vegetation here peculiarly luxuriant, so
that the inhabitants are not only enabled to reserve an ample supply for
themselves, but to spare a small quantity for most of the ships that
call at the island. Colonel Nichols informed us that he had 1000 lbs.
weight of vegetables, principally the sweet potatoe, ready to dispose of
at this period. We had at dinner green peas, and French beans, besides
the more common vegetables, likewise turnip-radishes with our cheese. In
fact all European vegetables may be, and most of them are, produced
here. The greatest range of the thermometer on the mountain in the
winter months, which are August, September, October, and November, is
from 58° to 70°, and in the summer from 70° to 82°, consequently the
greatest range of the whole year is only 24° being from 58° to 82° F.
The sweet potatoe, (of which there are a great many and very large[47])
was first brought here from Africa; the best method of cultivating them
is found to be from shoots.
The following are the names and number of domestic animals now on the
island, which is about 30 miles in circumference.
70 head of oxen.
60 sheep. (principally from Africa.)
600 goats.
8 horses.
4 mules.
27 asses.
There are likewise the dogs lately imported, and a few rabbits from the
Cape of Good Hope, which have been turned loose in the valleys to breed;
it is feared, however, that the cats will destroy the young rabbits, if
they do not the old ones. Two red-legged partridges have also been
brought from the Cape, and there are a few pigeons, likewise the English
linnet in a wild state.
_Friday, 27_.--Fine morning with a few refreshing showers. Thermometer
at 6 A.M. 70°. F. Soon after breakfast we left the Colonel's house to
return to Regent's Square, but we walked nearly a mile before we mounted
our horses. The officers of the Establishment invited all Captain Owen's
party, and their Colonel, to dine with them to-day at their mess, which
consists of Lieutenants Evans and Barns, R.M. Mr. Mitchell, Surgeon, and
Mr. Trescot, Agent-victualler to the African squadron.
[Illustration: THE ISLAND OF ASCENSION]
The population of the island at that time was 192 souls,[48] all
Europeans, except 40 liberated Africans, and they were then deficient of
10: the Government having allowed the number of 50 to assist in carrying
on the required improvements and other employments, which consists of
road-making, erecting buildings, gardening, conveying water, &c. &c. The
officers of the Establishment, superintend the working parties, however,
these only work four days in the week, Wednesday and Saturday being
allowed them for fishing,[49] cleaning their clothes, and other private
purposes, while the Sunday is of course kept holy. Their working hours
are from daylight until eight o'clock, when they are allowed
three-quarters of an hour for breakfast; after which they return to
labour till eleven, they then rest until three o'clock; from which time
they work until sunset. This arrangement, which throws open to repose
the hottest portion of the day, is highly to be approved of in a warm
climate.
At 7 o'clock we took leave of the Colonel and his officers, to return
on board the Eden. When we got under weigh, and made sail out of
Ascension-roads, for Sierra Leone, steering N.N.E.
In the year 1801, when I belonged to H.M.S. Cambrian, (the Honourable
Captain Legge,) on our return voyage from St. Helena, we passed so near
this island, that we sent a 24-pound shot among the hills, and saw it
scatter the dust around the spot where it fell, but we did not send a
boat on shore, for we knew it was then uninhabited, and our Commander
was not disposed to lose his time in turning turtle, while he might be
more gallantly employed chasing the enemy. We merely fired as a signal
to any one that might have been left on the island by accident, for on
the preceding year H.M.S. Endymion took on board the crew of a brig that
had been wrecked on the island: and the celebrated navigator, Dampier,
was also cast away here in the Roebuck, of 12 guns, on his return voyage
from New Holland. Little could I have imagined at the time of my first
visit, that I should ever have landed here, under my present peculiar
circumstances, or that after so many years I should find so much to
interest me in a place that presented nothing to my recollection but
utter desolation. The alteration in the island was indeed curious, and I
am happy to learn, that the improvements still proceed with at least
equal energy, and proportionate success. Since my last visit, I am told
that, the inhabitants have greatly increased their facilities of
obtaining, and preserving supplies of fresh water, an achievement which
must necessarily add much to their daily comfort.
_Saturday, 28_.--Nothing material occurred on this or the following day,
for we glided along pleasantly with a fresh trade-wind, varying only a
couple of points from S.E. to E.S.E. until the morning of
_Monday, 30_.--When the wind got much lighter and we were afraid of
losing the trade altogether, for although at this season of the year it
prevails much further from the Southern towards the Northern Hemisphere,
yet we can seldom hope to carry it beyond the equinoctial line, where we
expect to get into what is very characteristically called "the
variables": at one season of the year, these winds are very light and
changeable, with frequent calms and occasional thunderstorms and
waterspouts: at another season of the year, the weather is dark, gloomy,
squally with occasional calms and much rain, until we advance to 12° or
14° N. latitude, where we usually fall in with the N.E. trade wind,
however, ships are sometimes fortunate enough on leaving the Southern
Hemisphere for the Northern, particularly in the months of May, June,
and July, to carry the S.E. trade to the northward of the line, even
until they fall in with the N.E. trade.
Between three and four this afternoon, we crossed the equinoctial line,
at which time I took an affidavit before Captain Owen for my half-pay. I
was induced to do this from the novelty of the circumstance, as well as
a preparatory measure in case I should have an opportunity of forwarding
a letter to England. Lat. at noon, for the last three days, 5°.
39'.--2°. 25'. and 0°. 13'. S.
_Tuesday, July, 1_.--There was a great change in the weather to-day. The
wind was more unsettled, the clouds were heavy, and there was a general
haze around the horizon. These were clear indications of our approaching
the coast of Africa in the rainy season; there had also been a heavy dew
last night, which aggravated these gloomy appearances. At sunset, we saw
a vessel a few miles a-head of us, which we came up with in about an
hour, she proved to be a Dutch galliot, from the island of Mayo, bound
to Rio de Janeiro, with half a cargo of salt.
Immediately on receiving this intelligence, I requested the boarding
officer to engage a passage for me to the Brazils, which being
accomplished, I took leave of my kind and respected friend Captain Owen,
after having been his guest for nearly twelve months; during which time
I had experienced an unvarying series of unequalled attentions, a
consideration for my interest and pursuits highly flattering, and had
derived, from his conversation and society, an acquisition of truly
valuable information; for which I desire to acknowledge myself deeply
and gratefully his debtor.
----------
[39] There are a good many runaway slaves living at the south end of the
island, quite independent of all the Portuguese authorities.
[40] It should be explained, that these vessels are permitted to trade
for slaves to the southward of the line; but are liable to capture, if
found to the northward of the line with slaves on board. However, they
frequently expose themselves to the risk, in a desperate spirit of
speculation.
[41] Wild parsley is very abundant in the valleys, besides chickweed,
thistles, wild mint, and other herbs.
[42] The guinea fowl feed principally on crickets and chickweed.
[43] Bull terriers.
[44] It is observed, a short time previous to the turtle season, that
the sand rises on shore, near the beach, considerably higher than at
other times.
[45] The turtle, generally, weigh about 400 lbs.; and, sometimes, as
much as 700 lbs.
[46] A small species of gull.
[47] Some have grown so large as to weigh 5 or 6 pounds.
[48] About 50 of this number live at Dampier's Spring.
[49] They have boats belonging to the Establishment, which are on these
days provided with hooks and lines, and sent off those parts of the
island where there is known to be good fishing ground.