Passion for Travelling--Author's peculiar situation--Motives for going
Abroad--Resources for the Blind--Embark in the Eden, Capt. Owen, for
Sierra Leone--Lord High Admiral at Plymouth--Cape Finisteire--Arrival
at Madeira--Town of Funchal--Wines of Madeira--Cultiwition of the
Grape--Table of Exports--Seizure of Gin--Fruits and Vegetables--Climate
--Coffee, Tea, and Sugar Cultivation--Palanquin Travelling--Departure
from Madeira
The passion for travelling is, I believe, instinctive in some natures.
We have seen men persevere in their enterprises against the most
formidable obstacles; and, without means or friends, and even ignorant
of the languages of the various countries through which they passed,
pursue their perilous journeys into remote places, until, like the
knight in the Arabian tale, they succeeded in snatching a memorial
from every shrine they visited. For my own part, I have been conscious
from my earliest youth of the existence of this desire to explore
distant regions, to trace the varieties exhibited by mankind under the
different influences of different climates, customs, and laws, and to
investigate with unwearied solicitude the moral and physical
distinctions that separate and diversify the various nations of the
earth.
I am bound to believe that this direction of my faculties and energies
has been ordained by a wise and benevolent Providence, as a source of
consolation under an affliction which closes upon me all the delights
and charms of the visible world. The constant occupation of the mind,
and the continual excitement of mental and bodily action, contribute
to diminish, if not to overcome, the sense of deprivation which must
otherwise have pressed upon me; while the gratification of this
passion scarcely leaves leisure for despondency, at the same time that
it supplies me with inexhaustible means of enjoyment. When I entered
the naval service I felt an irresistible impulse to become acquainted
with as many parts of the world as my professional avocations would
permit, and I was determined not to rest satisfied until I had
completed the circumnavigation of the globe. But at the early age of
twenty-five, while these resolves were strong, and the enthusiasm of
youth was fresh and sanguine, my present affliction came upon me. It
is impossible to describe the state of my mind at the prospect of
losing my sight, and of being, as I then supposed, deprived by that
misfortune of the power of indulging in my cherished project. Even the
suspense which I suffered, during the period when my medical friends
were uncertain of the issue, appeared to me a greater misery than the
final knowledge of the calamity itself. At last I entreated them to be
explicit, and to let me know the worst, as that could be more easily
endured than the agonies of doubt. Their answer, instead of increasing
my uneasiness, dispelled it. I felt a comparative relief in being no
longer deceived by false hopes; and the certainty that my case was
beyond remedy determined me to seek, in some pursuit adapted to my new
state of existence, a congenial field of employment and consolation.
At that time my health was so delicate, and my nerves so depressed by
previous anxiety, that I did not suffer myself to indulge in the
expectation that I should ever be able to travel out of my own country
alone; but the return of strength and vigour, and the concentration of
my views upon one object, gradually brought back my old passion, which
at length became as firmly established as it was before. The
elasticity of my original feelings being thus restored, I ventured,
alone and sightless, upon my dangerous and novel course; and I cannot
look back upon the scenes through which I have passed, the great
variety of circumstances by which I have been surrounded, and the
strange experiences with which I have become familiar, without an
intense aspiration of gratitude for the bounteous dispensation of the
Almighty, which enabled me to conquer the greatest of human evils by
the cultivation of what has been to me the greatest of human
enjoyments, and to supply the void of sight with countless objects of
intellectual gratification. To those who inquire what pleasures I can
derive from the invigorating spirit of travelling under the privation
I suffer, I may be permitted to reply in the words of the poet,
Unknown those powers that raise the soul to flame,
Catch every nerve, and vibrate through the frame;
Their level life is but a smouldering fire,
Unquench'd by want, unfanned by strong desire.
Or perhaps, with more propriety, I may ask, who could endure life
without a purpose, without the pursuit of some object, in the
attainment of which his moral energies should be called into healthful
activity? I can confidently assert that the effort of travelling has
been beneficial to me in every way; and I know not what might have
been the consequence, if the excitement with which I looked forward to
it had been disappointed, or how much my health might have suffered
but for its refreshing influence.
I am constantly asked, and I may as well answer the question here once
for all, what is the use of travelling to one who cannot see? I
answer, Does every traveller see all that he describes?--and is not
every traveller obliged to depend upon others for a great proportion
of the information he collects? Even Humboldt himself was not exempt
from this necessity.
The picturesque in nature, it is true, is shut out from me, and works
of art are to me mere outlines of beauty, accessible only to one sense;
but perhaps this very circumstance affords a stronger zest to
curiosity, which is thus impelled to a more close and searching
examination of details than would be considered necessary to a
traveller who might satisfy himself by the superficial view, and rest
content with the first impressions conveyed through the eye. Deprived
of that organ of information, I am compelled to adopt a more rigid and
less suspicious course of inquiry, and to investigate analytically, by
a train of patient examination, suggestions, and deductions, which
other travellers dismiss at first sight; so that, freed from the hazard
of being misled by appearances, I am the less likely to adopt hasty and
erroneous conclusions. I believe that, notwithstanding my want of
vision, I do not fail to visit as many interesting points in the course
of my travels as the majority of my contemporaries: and by having
things described to me _on the spot_, I think it is possible for me to
form as correct a judgment as my own sight would enable me to do: and
to confirm my accuracy, I could bring many living witnesses to bear
testimony to my endless inquiries, and insatiable thirst for collecting
information. Indeed this is the secret of the delight I derive from
travelling, affording me as it does a constant source of mental
occupation, and stimulating me so powerfully to physical exertion, that
I can bear a greater degree of bodily fatigue, than any one could
suppose my frame to be capable of supporting.
I am frequently asked how I take my notes. It is simply thus: I keep a
sort of rough diary, which I fill up from time to time as opportunities
offer, but not from day to day, for I am frequently many days in
arrear, sometimes, indeed, a fortnight together: but I always vividly
remember the daily occurrences which I wish to retain, so that it is
not possible that any circumstances can escape my attention. I also
collect distinct notes on various subjects, as well as particular
descriptions of interesting objects, and when I cannot meet with a
friend to act as my amanuensis, I have still a resource in my own
writing apparatus, of which, however, I but seldom avail myself, as the
process is much more tedious to me than that of dictation. But these
are merely rough notes of the heads of subjects, which I reserve to
expatiate upon at leisure on my return to old England.
The invention of the apparatus to which I allude is invaluable to those
who are afflicted with blindness. It opens not only an agreeable source
of amusement and occupation in the hours of loneliness and retirement,
but it affords a means of communicating our secret thoughts to a
friend, without the interposition of a third party; so that the
intercourse and confidence of private correspondence, excluded by a
natural calamity, are thus preserved to us by an artificial substitute.
By the aid of this process, too, we may desire our correspondent to
reply to our inquiries in a way which would be quite unintelligible to
those to whom the perusal of the answer might be submitted. This
apparatus, which is called the "Nocto via Polygraph," by Mr. Wedgwood,
the inventor, is not only useful to the blind, but is equally capable
of being rendered available to all persons suffering under diseases of
the eyes; for, although it does not assist you to commit your thoughts
to paper with the same facility that is attained by the use of pen and
ink, it enables you to write very clearly and legibly, while you have
the satisfaction of knowing that you are spared all risk of hurting
your sight. It is but an act of justice to refer such of my readers as
may feel any curiosity on this subject, to Mr. Wedgwood, for full
particulars respecting his various inventions for the use of the blind.
Having given these personal explanations--rendered necessary by the
peculiarity of my situation, and the very general curiosity which
appears to exist on the subject, if I may judge by the frequency of the
interrogatories that are put to me--will now conclude my preliminary
observations,
Nor will I thee detain
With poet's fictions, nor oppress thine ear
With circumstance, and long exordiums here;
but place myself at once on board H.M.S. Eden, at Woolwich, on the 1st
of July, 1827, having been previously invited to take a passage to the
coast of Africa, by her captain, W.F.W. Owen, Esq., who was appointed
superintendent of a new settlement about to be established on the
island of Fernando Po. The commission with which this gentleman was
charged, afforded him peculiar advantages, as he was to retain the
command of his ship, independently of the Commodore on the African
station, for the purpose of facilitating his operations in the island.
I had resolved to visit Sierra Leone, and other places on the western
coast of Africa, principally from an early anxiety I felt to explore
that part of the world, and also, strange and paradoxical as it may
appear, for the benefit of my health. That a man should visit Sierra
Leone for the benefit of his health, seems to be as unreasonable as if
he were to seek for the vernal airs of the south in the inclement
region of Siberia. But, I am strongly inclined to believe, that the
apprehensions of European travellers on this subject are often as fatal
as the climate that produces them. In my own case, I was not only free
from any apprehensions concerning fevers and those diseases which are
incidental to a tropical climate, but, having been recommended to try
the effects of a warm region, I anticipated an improvement in my
general health from a short residence at a spot, which incautious modes
of living, in addition to the insalubrity of the climate, have rendered
fatal to so many of my countrymen. At the same time, I am not
insensible to the fact, that all Europeans are more or less susceptible
of those disorders which are prevalent within the Tropics; especially
on the western coast of Africa, in Batavia, Trincomalee, and different
parts of the West Indies; but it is equally certain that fear is a
great predisposing cause of disease, and that the despondency to which
most persons give way while they are under the influence of its
effects, increases the mortality to a considerable extent. It has been
generally observed, that those persons who happen to be so actively
engaged in any engrossing pursuit, as to have no leisure for the
imagination to work upon their fears, are less liable to the fever,
and, if attacked, are better able to encounter its virulence, than the
timid and cautious. In the event of an attack, if the patient keeps up
his spirits, and prevents desponding thoughts from occupying his mind,
there is every reason to hope for a favourable result--
The sons of hope are Heaven's peculiar care,
Whilst life remains 'tis impious to despair.
There are, of course, some constitutions more susceptible of the
disease than others; and it may also be observed, that young people are
more exposed to danger, than those who have passed the meridian of
life.
We left Woolwich on the following day, July the 2nd, for Northfleet,
where we remained a week, for the purpose of making observations,
regulating the chronometers, &c. We also took in our guns, 26 in
number, of the following calibre--18 32-pound carronades, 6 18-pound
ditto, and 2 long 9-pounders, with a full proportion of shot. This
quantity of metal alone (for the carriages had been previously taken on
board and fixed at Woolwich) brought the ship bodily down in the water
four inches, drawing, when on board, 15 feet 2 inches forward, and 15
feet 6 inches abaft. We also received, on the day after, as much powder
as could be put in the magazines. On Monday, the 9th, we left our
moorings, and proceeded down the Thames, anchoring for the night. On
the following day we arrived in the Downs, where we remained for about
six-and-forty hours, and from thence proceeded down Channel, and
anchored in Plymouth Sound, on Saturday the 14th of July, immediately
after which I accompanied my brother, Lieutenant Robert Holman, R.N.,
who came on board for me, to his house at Plymouth, where I spent a
very agreeable time, amongst my old shipmates, relatives, and friends.
For the last few days, indeed, my enjoyment was marred by illness, but
that was merely the bitter, which a wise Providence mingles in the cup
of life.
The period of my stay at Plymouth happened to be one of general
congratulation and excitement, owing to the arrival of his present
Majesty, then Lord High Admiral; who came there on a visit of
inspection. His Royal Highness held regular levees, which were
numerously attended. The opportunity to wait upon his Royal Highness
was to me a source of sincere gratification, of which I gladly availed
myself. But I must acknowledge that a faint hope arose in my mind, that
the peculiar circumstances in which I was placed might interest his
Royal Highness on my behalf, and lead to some change in my situation
favourable to the objects I had so long cherished. I ventured to
indulge in the thought, which, perhaps, I scarcely suffered myself
altogether to define, that I might be relieved from the obligations of
my appointment at Windsor, by which I am under restrictions, both as to
time and space; and be permitted to enjoy some equivalent consideration,
which would leave me free to prosecute the plans to which I had devoted
the whole energies of my mind. As it was, I had only obtained
permission to go abroad for the benefit of my health; but the remedy
was in itself an incitement to further travel, so that I should no
sooner have reaped the advantage of my leave of absence, and with
renewed health, acquired an increased desire for exploring distant
countries, than I should be compelled to relinquish my undertaking,
and the apprehension of a sudden recall constantly presenting itself
to my mind, checked in a great measure the enjoyment of my pursuit.
But my sanguine wishes, and unconfessed hopes, faded like a dream; and
I turned again to the sea, to contemplate the bounds that were placed
to my ambitious projects. Had it been otherwise--could I have followed
unchecked the course of my own impulses, I should not have
circumscribed my plan to any precise limits, but would have pursued my
travels, wherever the slightest point of interest encouraged me to
proceed.
Possibly it is better as it is. I have much reason to be grateful for
the protecting hand of Providence that preserved me throughout my
wanderings; and, had I been less restrained by the force of
circumstances, I might not now, perhaps, possess the power of recording
the results of my researches.
In consequence of having been confined to my bed by severe indisposition,
I was unable to walk to the boat when the Eden was ready to sail, and
had nearly lost my passage; but my anxiety to proceed overcame all my
difficulties, and ill as I was I saved my distance by hastening in a
coach to the waterside, where Captain Owen had kindly provided a boat
for my reception.
On the 29th we got under weigh at 9 A.M., with a fresh breeze from the
eastward.
Gallant before the wind she goes, her prow
High bearing and disparting the blue tide
That foams and flashes in its rage below.
Meantime the helmsman feels a conscious pride,
And while far onward the long billows swell,
Looks to the lessening land, which seems to say, 'farewell!'
We did not long enjoy our easterly breeze, for in the evening the wind
became variable, the rain fell in torrents, accompanied with lightning
and thunder, and the night was dark and dismal, with an irregular sea,
which made the ship very uneasy; then followed one of those scenes of
confusion which can be witnessed only on shipboard; the creaking of
timbers as they were strained by the conflict of the elements, the
uproar of a multitude of voices, the ludicrous accidents arising from
the pitching and rolling of the vessel, things breaking loose in all
directions, chests flying from side to side, crockery smashing, people
hallooing, others moaning and groaning, accompanied with frequent
evomitions, and occasionally a general scream, from some extraordinary
crash. With tumultuous noises of this kind I was entertained as I lay
on my bed, not from sea-sickness, but from previous indisposition.
Towards morning the wind settled in the N.W., blowing very strong, and
the Eden continued rolling a great deal the whole day. This breeze
fortunately kept up the two following days, when the weather became
very fine, and the wind light and variable. The whole of this day
(Thursday, August 2nd) we were in sight of Cape Finisterre. On Sunday
the 5th the weather was very fine and warm, with a moderate breeze; we
had eleven sail of vessels in sight, the greater part of which, from
their regular order of sailing, were supposed to be the experimental
squadron under the command of Sir Thomas Hardy. Divine service was
performed by the Rev. Mr. Davy, a Church Missionary, who, with his
wife, was bound to Sierra Leone, to perform the duties of a missionary
and teacher to the liberated Africans; his wife taking upon herself to
instruct the female part of that community. The following day, in
36-1/2 deg. N. lat., we saw several flying fish, which I mention merely
because it was thought to be very unusual to see them so far to the
northward.
On Wednesday, the 8th of August, we came in sight of Porto Santo. The
first appearance of land always produces a degree of interest in the
ship even to sailors, but to passengers it is generally the cause of
great excitement. In the afternoon we saw Madeira,[1] and on the
following day we rounded the west end of the island, and stood for
Funchal Roads, having passed along the north side in order that
Captain Owen might ascertain its length, which he found to be
thirty-four miles; this was precisely the same distance that he had
calculated it to be on a former measurement. He had taken this trouble
a second time, in consequence of some navigator having expressed a
different opinion on the subject. In the evening we anchored in
thirty-six fathoms water, the Loo Rock bearing N. by E. We found a
Portuguese sloop of war and several small merchant vessels lying here.
The next morning I went on shore with the surgeon and purser of the
Eden, both of whom have since died of fever on board the same ship.
The general landing place for ships' boats is at the Loo Rock on the
west side of the bay, which is at the extremity of the town on that
side, and you have more than a mile to walk over a very badly paved
road before you arrive at the centre of the town; you may, however,
land on the beach near the custom-house, from whence you immediately
enter the best part of the town, but the surf is sometimes so rough
that you cannot attempt this point without risking a ducking, or the
upsetting of your boat, which you must immediately haul up on the
beach or keep outside the surf.
Notwithstanding we had left England in the height of summer we found a
great difference in the climate, the weather being exceedingly hot. On
the following day I was invited to dine and take up my residence at
Mr. Shortridge's during our stay at Madeira. We met a large party at
dinner, consisting of Captain Owen, with some of his officers, the
Rev. Mr. Deacon, and a number of the most respectable English
residents. Madeira is so frequently visited by ships from different
parts of Europe, and has been so fully described, that it may,
perhaps, appear superfluous to attempt any further account of a place
already so well known; but as all men are supposed to possess a
certain portion of vanity, and as travellers are proverbially accused
of laying claim to the discovery of some facts which had escaped the
observation of their predecessors, I venture to throw together, into
as brief a compass as possible, the result of my inquiries, in the
hope that I may add something to that which is already known, and, at
all events, with a strong confidence in the accuracy of my remarks.
The wine, being of vital importance to the prosperity of the island,
presents the first claim to the attention of a stranger. A sort of
controversy, with better reasons on the one side than the other,
prevails, respecting the relative qualities of the wines produced at
the north and the south sides of the island; in which the vineyards at
the north side have suffered what appears to be an indiscriminate and
injudicious censure. The grape chiefly grown there is the Virdelho,
which the most experienced planters allow to be productive of the
strongest and most esteemed of their wines; and when it is of the
growth of the southern vineyards it is held in the highest estimation.
It must, however, be admitted that the northern aspect is unfavourable
to the grape, and that the greater proportion of the wines from that
side are only fit for the still. The cause of this may be referred to
a variety of circumstances; such as the marked difference in the soil
and aspect and the mode of cultivation, the vines being trained upon
trees; whilst on the south side the more approved system is practised
of training them upon horizontal trellis work, raised two or three
feet from the ground, by which the plant is supported and the fruit
exposed to the full influence of the sun. A great superiority of
flavour is, no doubt, thus obtained: on the north side, the grapes are
entirely of the white kind, whilst on the south there is a great
variety, but chiefly of the red, from which it is said the finest wine
is made. The famed vineyards of the Malmsey and Sercial wines, are
towards the west end of the south side. There is but a very small
quantity of either grown on this spot of the first rate quality, or
indeed of any value as a characteristic wine, for on the easternmost
part of this situation there is a constant flow of water rushing from
the summits of the rocks, that greatly deteriorates the value of the
growths over which its influence extends. The practice of plucking the
leaves of the vines to admit the genial heat of the sun to the fruit,
as well as a free circulation of air, has been found most beneficial
in bringing the fruit to perfection. This process is also a source of
emolument to the planter, as the leaves form an excellent food for
fattening cattle destined for the shambles, giving also to the meat a
fine and delicious flavour.
The wines of Madeira generally may be divided into three
denominations, and may be thus described.
_Tinto_ is a red wine, the produce of the Burgundy grape, transplanted
to Madeira. It is drank in perfection in the second and third years,
before it has deposited its extractive matter, after which it becomes a
full bodied Madeira wine, of the usual colour and flavour.
_Sercial_ is the produce of the Hock grape: a pale, lively, and very
high-flavoured wine. It ought not to be drank in less than seven years,
and it requires a much greater age to reach perfection.
_Malmsey_, when genuine, is a rich and highly cordial wine. There is a
variety of it called _green Malmsey_, bearing some resemblance to
Frontignan.
The first quality of the Madeira wine is certainly equal to the finest
production of the grape in any part of the world, for its aromatic
flavour and beneficial effects: therefore it is much to be lamented
that so small a quantity of it, in its pure state, should find its way
to foreign markets: and that its character should be sacrificed to the
sordid speculations of any unprincipled traders. Wine drinkers in
England are very commonly deceived into the idea that a voyage to the
East or West Indies is sufficient to ensure the excellence of the
wine; but this is an obvious fallacy, for if the wine were not of a
good quality when shipped from the island, a thousand voyages could
not make it what it never had been. It is well known to every merchant
in Madeira, that a great proportion of the wines so shipped are of an
inferior quality, and are purchased in barter by persons who are
commonly known by the name of truckers.
I may here observe, as a general remark, that fine Madeira wines are
equally improved by the extremes of heat and cold, and that damp is
always hurtful to them.
Burgundy vines have lately been introduced into Madeira. The generally
received opinion that the wines of Teneriffe and the Azores are
brought here for the purpose of giving them the Madeira flavour, and
sending them to foreign markets as the produce of the island, is very
erroneous. Although smuggling is openly carried on, and to an extent
that ought to set at rest so fallacious an opinion, any one acquainted
with this island must be aware of the utter impossibility of
introducing foreign wines with a view to exporting them again as
native produce; for, in the first place, the whole of the inhabitants
would be likely to resist such an attempt, from a conviction that the
introduction would militate against their own interests, and from the
obvious apprehension that the increased quantity as well as the
inferior quality of the adulterated wines, would injure the character
and reduce the price of their own.
The great increase too, which it would occasion in the amount sent out
of the island, would render it very difficult for the speculators in
the spurious wines, to avoid detection. It is, therefore, much more
reasonable to suppose, that these mixtures take place in the markets
to which the wines are sent: the great demand for them tempting the
persons engaged in the traffic, to embark in an imposition which has
had the effect of deteriorating the wines so materially, that at last
they began to lose their previous character, to get out of fashion,
and, consequently, to fall off in demand as well as in price. This
system of intermixing different wines, to swell the quantity of some
favourite wine, is known to prevail to a great extent in those of
France and Portugal. The Clarets of the London market, are principally
prepared for the purpose, and, in the transit, lose much of the pure
nature of the original production: and the quantity of adulterated
Port that is sold in England is almost incredible. It is also a well
known fact, that there is more Tokay[2] sold on the Continent and in
England, in one year, than the limited space where it is grown, on the
mountains of Hungary, could produce in twenty years.
But there is also, independently of this vitiation to which the wines
are liable, another cause for the inferior quality of those wines
which are really the produce of the islands. A few Englishmen, and
other foreigners, of a grade very different from that of the
respectable English merchants who have been long established here, hit
upon the expedient of exporting wines instead of attending to the
business which they had originally established on the island. They
thought it would turn out profitable to buy up cheap, and, of course,
inferior wines, for the purpose of sending them to the European
markets, under the impression that any thing would sell that was known
to be the genuine production of Madeira. By this method of enlarging
their business, the worst description of the native produce got
abroad, and was substituted in place of the best. There are, of
course, a great variety of qualities; but there is not a greater
quantity of the first quality than is required to flavour their
inferior wines; and it is only by appropriating it to that purpose,
that they could be enabled to furnish a sufficient quantity for the
immense demand in the various markets which they have to supply.
It will be seen from the following account of the exportation of wine
from Madeira, that the demand was rapidly decreasing in 1825, 6, and
7, owing to the causes above mentioned.
1825.
-------------------------------------------------
Pipes of Hds. Q.C. 1/2 Q.C.
110 Gall. of 55 of 27-1/2 of 15
-------------------------------------------------
January, 1367 1 0 0
Feb. 751 1 0 1
March, 1915 1 0 0
April, 2463 0 1 0
May, 1252 1 1 0
June, 1112 1 1 0
July, 1329 1 1 1
August, 677 1 0 0
Sept. 741 0 0 1
Oct. 1338 1 1 0
Nov. 881 1 1 0
Dec. 599 0 0 1
-------------------------------------------------
14425 9 7 4
-------------------------------------------------
1826.
-------------------------------------------------
Pipes, old
Measure Hds. Q.C. 1/2 Q.C.
-------------------------------------------------
January, 1092 1 1 1
Feb. 420 1 1 1
March, 905 1 1 1
April, 777 1 1 1
May, 1826 1 1 1
June, 866 0 0 1
July, 488 1 0 1
August, 978 1 0 0
Sept. 317 0 0 1
Oct. 730 1 1 1
Nov. 703 1 0 1
Dec. 289 1 0 0
-------------------------------------------------
9391 10 6 9
-------------------------------------------------
1827.
-------------------------------------------------
Pipes Hds. Q.C. 1/4 Q.C.
-------------------------------------------------
January, 371 1 0 1
Feb. 573 0 0 0
March, 252 0 1 1
April, 958 1 1 1
May, 1539 0 1 0
June, 535 0 1 1
July, 567 1 1 0
August, 279 0 1 1
-------------------------------------------------
5274 2 6 5
-------------------------------------------------
I am informed, that smuggling is so common a practice in this island,
that there is no difficulty in procuring any prohibited article you
may desire: among the most abundant are French brandy and Dutch gin.
The former of these articles continued to be smuggled, in large
quantities, for some time after the prohibition, from an idea that it
was the best spirit they could use, and under an apprehension that the
wines could not maintain their character without it:--experience,
however, has shewn them, that they can not only do without French
brandy, but that the spirit which is made on the island, is much
better adapted to their purpose.
An extensive seizure of gin was made during our short stay at Madeira,
under the following circumstances: A boat went off to a Dutch vessel,
on the same evening that she left the port, which, no doubt, had been
previously arranged, and took 300 cases of gin, which she landed at
the N.E. side of the island. She remained there that day, and
proceeded, under the obscurity of the following night, towards the
town of Funchal; but on her way she struck, and must have been wrecked
but for the assistance of a fishing-smack that happened to be near at
the moment. The fishermen were, as a matter of course, easily bribed
to assist the smugglers in landing and depositing the illicit store in
a cavern at Prior Bay, a little to the westward of Funchal. The next
day, however, a most unfortunate accident revealed the whole
proceeding. Two lovers had formed an arrangement to make an excursion
from Funchal to Kama de Loba, and leaving the former place in a small
boat, were in due time landed at Prior Bay. They had not proceeded
far, before they discovered the cave, and tempted, by its coolness and
its solitary situation, they entered it, when, to their surprise, they
saw a man lying in a remote part of the interior. As he appeared to be
sleeping very soundly, they ventured to look farther in, when they
perceived a great number of cases deposited in an obscure corner; and,
suspecting that they were placed there to elude the vigilance of the
revenue officers, they immediately communicated the fact to some
persons in the Custom-house, in the hope of being rewarded for their
zeal. The Custom-house people, who were probably already aware of the
circumstance, did not appear to be very anxious to interfere, and told
the disappointed informers that they might take a few cases for
themselves, and say nothing more about the matter. Shortly afterwards,
however, the affair reached the ears of the Governor, who immediately
sent a military party to seize upon the illicit deposit, the contents
of which were demonstrated by the potent effects which they had upon
the soldiers.
The stone fruits of Madeira are in general of a very inferior quality,
arising from mere want of attention to their cultivation; for where the
trees have been planted in a favourable situation, and otherwise
attended to, the produce is excellent; but they are generally scattered
about the vineyards, and treated with the utmost carelessness, being
very rarely pruned or dressed. It is supposed that they are permitted to
grow in this irregular way for the purpose of attracting the lizards,
insects, and grubs from the vines, as it was found that they always
preferred the more solid nutriment of the stone fruit, especially the
peach. These grubs are so numerous, that they will scarcely allow a
single apricot or peach to ripen unperforated, consequently, the
planters are obliged to pluck, in a green state, what they would
otherwise desire to see expanding to full maturity.
_Query_.--Why do the insects prefer the peach tree to the vine? Is it
from the resinous quality of the former?
There is also an abundance of apples and pears, but of a bad quality,
occasioned by the same causes. The mulberry, fig, and guava, succeed
better; they are both abundant and good, but there are not any
plantains or bananas. On the higher lands, that is, above the general
height of the vineyards, the walnut and chesnut grow most luxuriantly,
and are both ornamental and useful. The chesnuts are so plentiful
that, in the fruit season, they form a considerable article of food
amongst the lower orders of the people. The fine old forest trees, the
original occupiers of the soil, are disappearing rapidly, even from
the deepest ravines; in situations easy of access they have been long
since destroyed by the lawless and thoughtless despoiler.
I must not omit some reference to the vegetables of Madeira, and in
particular the potatoe, which grows as fine here as in any part of the
world. The cultivation of this edible has of late so much increased,
as in some districts to constitute the chief food of the natives. The
apparently unfavourable situation on which it is principally planted,
affords a convincing proof of the superiority, in habits of active
industry, of the peasantry of this island over the Portuguese peasants
in general. Instead of being indolent and supine, and indisposed to
embrace the means of ameliorating and improving their condition, they
are, on the contrary, enterprising, hardy, and persevering. The
potatoe is chiefly reared on the ascent of Pico Rueva, at an elevation
of 6,000 feet above the level of the sea, and many of the beds are
within 300 feet of the summit.[3] The ground above a certain height
belongs to Government, and the people have only a trifling tax to pay
for any portion that they choose to cultivate. Onions, pumpkins,
melons, cucumbers, &c. &c. are in the greatest abundance. Beef,
mutton, and poultry, of good quality, are to be obtained at moderate
prices, and fish in the greatest abundance.
Madeira may be said to be in general very healthy; but in the autumn
diarrhoea is a common complaint amongst the lower orders, caused by
eating bad and unripe fruits, and drinking the washings of the
wine-press, a beverage made by throwing water on the husks of the
grapes, after the operation of pressing out the wine has been
performed, and then submitting them to a second pressure.
It is not an infrequent occurrence, that parts of the crews of ships
that touch at the Island, suffer from eating unripe fruits, which are
often incautiously allowed to be brought on board, particularly the
peaches, which the commanding officers of vessels would do well to
prohibit by every means in their power. The Portuguese boats are
always ready to bring off great quantities of such trash, which no one
can eat with impunity. The changes of the weather, for which the
inhabitants are not sufficiently prepared by clothing, may be added as
another cause of disease.
The planting of coffee has lately become very general in the vicinity
of Funchal, chiefly in gardens and places not favourable for the
culture of the vine, and this plant generally presents a most thriving
appearance, producing a berry which is highly esteemed, and is in such
demand at Lisbon that there is no doubt that the cultivation of it,
will, hereafter, become an object of some consideration; and I may
here observe, that it is already gradually extending. The quality of
this berry is so superior as to have rendered it an article of
exportation, and the people more readily resort to this new branch of
culture, from the decline in the demand for the secondary wines. Our
Consul has recently introduced the tea plant at his seat up the
mountain, from which some favourable specimens have already been
obtained.
The manufacture of sugar has also been tried on the island, but
although the cane succeeds uncommonly well, the expense of conveying
it to Funchal, together with that of the process of extracting the
juice, and the want of skill in granulation, has rendered the
experiment too costly, it being found that Brazilian sugar can be had
cheaper than the native production.
_Sunday, August 12th, 1827_.--I accompanied Mr. Shortridge to the
English Chapel, where the congregation was small, in consequence of
the absence of the merchants and their families in the country, during
the summer months. The service was performed by the Rev. Mr. Deacon,
who is a member of the Established Church, and holds the appointment
of Chaplain to the English residents, of whom there are a great
number, consisting of merchants, shop-keepers, servants, and a few
invalids. I do not, however, consider it the best place in the world
for the last description of visitors. Bermuda is well known to be a
much more healthy climate; from the land not being so high, the
weather is less variable, and the temperature, of course, more equal.
Madeira, notwithstanding, has two advantages over Bermuda, worthy of
consideration; it presents more agreeable and better society, and
offers greater facilities of intercourse with England; so that the
accounts from home are more frequent and recent.
I left town in the afternoon, to dine with Mr. Webster Gordon, who
resides at the mount near the Church of Nostra Senhora del Monte,
about three miles in the country; where I was invited with Captain
Owen and some of his officers. They went on horseback, while I, being
still rather an invalid, hired a palanquin by the advice of my friend,
Mr. Shortridge. Having heard a good deal of the luxury of palanquin
travelling in the East, I thought it would be a very pleasant mode of
conveyance on a hot day; but instead of finding it swing loftily, like
a hammock, as I expected, I discovered much to my mortification, that,
when on the shoulders of the bearers, it was raised only about
eighteen inches from the ground, and consisted of a solid frame of
wood, suspended from a pole with two iron stanchions, and covered on
each side by a cloth flung over the pole, to serve as a curtain. In
this I was placed, in a half sitting, half recumbent posture, which I
need scarcely observe was not very agreeable. When I got out to call
at a gentleman's house, before I reached my ultimate destination, I
found that the cramp in the calves of my legs had so disabled me, that
I could scarcely stand, and it was a considerable time before I could
walk unaided and free from pain. I anticipated every moment that my
bearers would have complained of the road, which was badly paved, and
very steep the greatest part of the way; but they were fine, hardy,
muscular men, and quite indifferent to a toil with which habit had
rendered them familiar. Each bearer carries a long stick in his hand,
which assists to support and steady him, over the uneven ground.
On arriving at Mr. Webster Gordon's, I was agreeably surprised to find
that I had been previously acquainted with Mrs. Gordon and her mother
in Italy.
The population of the town of Funchal is said to be about 25,000; and
that of the whole island, including Funchal, 120,000.
Invalids have, latterly, more facilities for obtaining lodgings than
they had in former years, the inhabitants finding it their interest to
direct their attention more to that particular. The resident British
may be estimated at about 250, including children; and since my return
to England, I have been informed, that, during this last year, there
were upwards of 100 invalid visitors from America.
I passed the short time the ship remained very pleasantly, and I could
have wished that it had been longer; not only on account of the
salubrity of the climate, but for the advantage of being enabled to
collect more information. Some of the officers went to the Coural, a
celebrated part of the island for extensive and beautiful scenery. In
the afternoon of _Tuesday, August 14th_, we embarked, and sailed
out of Funchal Bay on the same evening, directing our course for
Teneriffe. Our consort the Diadem, transport, had left the bay a few
hours before. From Funchal, Madeira, to Santa Cruz, Teneriffe, the
course is S. 6 deg. E.; distance 252 miles.
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[1] Madeira received its name in consequence of being covered with
wood; the word "madeira" in the Portuguese signifying timber.
[2] The vine of Italy was originally introduced to the mountain, of
Tokay, in the fourteenth century, by Louis I. of France.
[3] In the mountains of the Caraccas the potatoe grows wild, and in
great abundance; but as they are left unnoted, they are usually not
much larger than the ordinary gooseberry.--See _Humboldt_.