=335.=--TO TURN REEFS OUT OF THE TOPSAILS AND COURSES.
Haul taut the reef-pendants, and set taut the lower lifts; ease off the
bowlines; ease a little of the tacks and sheets of the courses, and
settle a few feet of the topsail halliards; haul taut the reef tackles
and buntlines, round in a little of the weather braces, to clear the
points of the lee-rigging; commence casting off the points of the bunt,
taking care to leave none tied, and turning one reef out at a time;
ease away both earings together; overhaul the rigging, get the tacks on
board; sheet home, hoist the topsails up to a taut leech, out bowlines
and make sail.
=336.=--THE RUDDER IS CARRIED AWAY--TO FIT ANOTHER.
Man the braces immediately; take in after sails, and let the ship run
a little free; rouse up a cable, clove-hitch a hawser over the cable,
and then pay it overboard; veer away about twenty fathoms, and lash it
amidships on the taffrail; lead the ends of the hawsers through large
blocks, lashed to the quarters, and clap tackles on them; steer the
ship by this contrivance, until a rudder can be constructed. (_See
Plate._)
Take a spare topmast, cut it the length of the rudder, enlarge the
fid-hole to receive the tiller, if not already large enough; take a
spare cap and cut away the after part, so as to fit the stern post
at the waters’ edge, or a little below; pass the topmast through the
round hole in the cap; take a spare jib-boom and cut it in two; the
pieces are to be bolted on abaft the topmast, after squaring the edges
which will come in contact with each other, and cutting a score in the
forward part of the jib-boom, next to the topmast, to allow the cap
to have room to play in; plank the whole over with stout oak plank,
and bolt in a fish abaft all; drive an eye-bolt into the heel of the
topmast (now the head of the rudder), and have kentledge attached to
the other end to sink it; take an anchor-stock and square two of the
edges; cut away a circular score in each, for them to join together
around the top mast, below the squares, and thus serve as an upper
gudgeon; drive the anchor-stock hoops on the rudder-head, to prevent
splitting.
Place the rudder on a stage, near the taffrail; pass a couple of
hawsers aft through the hawse-holes, and secure them to the heel of
the rudder; have tackles on their inner ends; have two more hawsers
or parts of hawsers passed from forward aft, under everything, one
each side, and clinch them to the quarter eye-bolts in the cap; have a
pendant round as described in another place; launch overboard and rouse
up on the head rope; heave in upon the hawsers, and bring the rudder to
the stern post, perpendicularly; secure the cap to the stern post and
the anchor-stock, around the rudder head; ship the tiller, reeve the
wheel-ropes, and rouse in the cable. The kentledge may remain to keep
the rudder perpendicular, or may be taken off, as the case may require.
_Note._--See improved sketch or plan of temporary rudder.
=337.=--A SHIP ON FIRE AT SEA.
Hard up the helm, haul up the courses, up spanker, get the ship before
the wind, and reduce sail to topsails; beat to quarters, close all the
ports, muster the men at their stations, call away the firemen, under
charge of their proper officers; let a part fill the engine and wet the
sails, while the other part finds out where the fire is, and endeavor
to extinguish it if possible--for which purpose use bedding; putting
over the gratings and tarpaulins. The gunner and his mates should be in
the magazine, ready to drown the powder at a moment’s notice; let the
carpenters rig and fetch the pumps, and the spar-deck division clear
away the boats, equip them, and get them ready for hoisting out; in the
above case, the fire is supposed to be below, and the helm is put up,
because wind is less felt; the ports are shut in, and the tarpaulins
put on, as they would afford air to the fire; and the courses hauled
up, because they strike a current of air down the hatchways, and are
also liable to catch. If the fire is on deck, and forward, keep before
the wind; if aft, haul close on a wind.
=338.=--A SHIP ON HER BEAM ENDS.
When the severity of the squall is felt, hard up the helm and let fly
everything; but if she goes on her beam ends before she can be got off
sufficiently to diminish the effects of the wind, the best way will be
to cut away the mizen-mast before the headway ceases, which falling
over the lee quarter, will act as a drag, to pay her off; should she
not right when before the wind, if there be an anchorage, and the cable
is bent, get the drag to the lee-bow, by means of a spring, and rouse
in; the wind acting on the flat deck, and under side of the sails,
will probably right her. As a last resort, cut away the masts--great
decision and rapidity of execution is necessary, as the ship must go
down a short time after she goes over.
=339.=--WIND FREE, ALL SAIL SET, STRUCK BY A SQUALL.
Up helm, let fly the main-sheets, spanker-outhaul, staysail-sheets
and halliards, royal and topgallant studding-sail-halliards, royal
and topgallant-sheets, and halliards; haul up the mainsail, brail
up the spanker, down staysails, and order the topmen to haul in the
studding-sails and stow them. When before the wind, right the helm,
clew down the topsails, haul up the buntlines, and out reef-tackles,
and reef if necessary; clear up the decks as fast as possible.
_Note._--In ordinary cases, sheets and tacks should be eased off, for
if they should get foul when running through their blocks fast, spars
might be endangered; but when struck by a severe squall, the effect
of the sails must be diminished as soon as possible, to save the
masts, and prevent her from going over.
=340.=--STRUCK BY A SQUALL ON A LEE SHORE.
If sail cannot be reduced, luff-too and shake her; fill away again,
gather headway, and luff again.
=341.=--STRUCK BY A SQUALL UNDER WHOLE TOPSAILS AND COURSERS.
Up helm, let fly the topsail halliards, main-sheet, spanker outhaul,
and lee-topsail sheets; haul up the mainsail, brail up the spanker,
clew up the topsails to leeward, then to windward; right the helm, and
reef if necessary.
=342.=--ON A WIND, UNDER WHOLE TOPSAILS--PART THE WEATHER MAIN-TOPSAIL
BRACE.
Haul up the mainsail, let go the lee main-brace, haul forward on the
lee-maintop-bowline, and aft on the weather main-brace; luff-too, and
when the main-topsail shivers, clew it down, haul up the buntlines, out
reef tackles, and steady the yard by the bowline, until a new brace can
be rove; a burton might be hooked to steady the yard.
=343.=--THE JIB-DOWNHAUL PARTS.
Untoggle the fore-topgallant-bowlines, and knot them together, above
the first hank, between the stay and jib-halliards, which use for a
downhaul, until you reeve a new one.
=344.=--TO CHASE.
A vessel that chases another should have the advantage in point of
sailing, because if the ship chased is as good a sailer as the chaser,
the latter can never come up to her, if she manœuvred equally as well.
In order to determine whether your ship sails faster than your
adversary, get upon the same tack, under the same sail, and keep upon
the same course with her; set her exactly with a compass, and if your
ship sails best, the sail will soon draw a point more aft; if she has
the advantage she will in a short time draw more forward, and if both
sail equally well, she will remain at the same point.
=345.=--TO CHASE TO WINDWARD.
[Illustration]
To chase to windward, run upon the same course with the enemy, until he
is brought perpendicularly to the same course; when tack and continue
the second board, until he is again brought perpendicularly to the same
course; always continue this manœuvre by tacking every time the chase
is a-beam, on either board, and she will come in the shortest method by
your superiority of sailing. Should the chase pass the point, when the
chase bears a-beam, he must go about with all dispatch.
_Note._--The chase goes about as soon as the chase is exactly a-beam,
because at that time, the distance between them is the least possible
upon the different boards they hold.
=346.=--OBSERVATIONS FOR A SHIP TO WINDWARD, WHICH IS CHASED.
[Illustration]
The weather ship will always be joined, since it is granted that she
does not sail as well as the pursuer, it will be then to her advantage
to keep constantly on the same tack, without losing time to heave
about, for tacking cannot be so favorable to her as to her adversary,
whose sailing is superior.
If the chaser mistakingly stands on and tacks in the wake of the chase,
the best course for the latter to pursue is to heave about and pass
to windward of him on the other tack, unless you suppose your vessel
would have a superiority in going large; for if the chaser persists in
tacking in the wake of the other ship, the chase will be much prolonged.
=347.=--TO CHASE TO LEEWARD.
[Illustration]
If the chaser keeps away to cut the chase off, and keeps continually on
that course, they will eventually come together where the two courses
intersect. This will be exactly executed by the ship in chase, if in
the course she has taken, she keeps the chase continually upon the
same degree of the compass as at the beginning of the pursuit. This
principle applies equally to all the courses which the retreating ship
pursues, for if overtaken, it can only be accomplished by keeping in a
straight line, if the chase takes another course than that which keeps
the two ships upon the same point. These are the only considerations
to be made, and they may be corrected, by observing the bearings by an
azimuth compass.
=348.=--TO WINDWARD OF AN ENEMY, WITHIN PISTOL SHOT.--_The weather main
rigging is shot away--both ships with main-topsails to the mast._
Up helm, fill away, and run the enemy on board, before she gets headway
to prevent it.
=349.=--WIND ON THE QUARTER, ALL SAIL SET--BRING BY UNDER DOUBLE-REEFED
TOPSAILS.
Reduce sail regularly, and clew down the topsails; luff enough to reef,
hoist the topsails, and haul close on a wind.
=350.=--WIND ON THE QUARTER, ALL SAIL SET--BRING-TO ON THE OTHER TACK,
UNDER DOUBLE REEFED TOPSAILS.
[Illustration]
Reduce sail to topsails, station the crew forward, with one watch of
topmen aloft to reef; brail up the spanker, up helm, brace in, and
when before the wind, clew down the topsails, haul out reef-tackles,
and up buntlines; let the men lay out and reef; wind on the quarter,
brace up cross-jack yard, and haul out the spanker; as she comes-too,
brace up the fore yard, and meet her with the helm and jib-sheet;
when coming-too, a good opportunity will be offered for reefing; when
reefed, hoist away the topsails, letting the main go a-back, the others
fill.
_Note._--Having a dismasted ship in tow, heave-to, make fast the
stream cable to the mainmast of the ship, and take it in at the
weather gangway, clinching it around the mainmast; then make fast a
stout hawser as a spring, and snatch it to a block lashed amidships
on the taffrail, so that the ship may either ride on the weather
quarter, or be roused astern. In case of veering, rouse in upon the
spring, and the manœuvre will be performed with more certainty. After
it is executed, the tow-rope must be shifted to the opposite gangway,
by means of a spring, &c.
=351.=--HOW TO GET THE ANCHORS OFF THE BOWS.
Hook the fore pendant-tackle; single the shank-painters, and set them
taut with the pendant-tackles; come up the shank-lashings, put the
shoes between the bills and bows, by capstan-bars, and then by the
shank-painters as far as necessary.
Single and set taut cat-head stoppers, and then unlash the rings.
=352.=--TO ANCHOR HEAD TO WIND--WIND FREE.
See that the officers and men are at their stations, and the strictest
silence preserved, as the ship nears her berth; take in all the
studding sails, get the burtons off the yards, and the jiggers off the
topgallant yards; send the booms and sails down from aloft; man the
fore clew-garnets, buntlines and leechlines; the mainsail is hauled up
as the ship is going free; topgallant and royal clewlines; lay aloft
and stand by to furl the sails snug, and square the yards by the lifts
and braces; have hands by the fore tack and sheet, topgallant and
royal sheets, halliards, weather braces, and bowlines; up foresail,
in topgallant-sails and royals; furl the sails snug, and square the
yards by the lifts and braces, hauling taut the halliards. Man the
topsail-clewlines and buntlines, weather braces, jib-downhaul, and
spanker-outhaul; attend the sheets, halliards, and spanker-brails, ease
down the helm, haul down the jib, haul out the spanker, and when the
topsail lifts, clear away the sheets, and clew them up; then let go the
halliards, clew down, and square away the yards immediately; haul aft
the spanker-sheet, and when the headway ceases, stream the buoy, stand
clear of the cable; when she begins to go astern, let go the anchor,
brail up the spanker, crotch the boom, haul taut the guys, light-to the
cable, as fast as she will take it, until a sufficient scope is out,
when stopper. Furl sails, haul taut and stop in the rigging, send the
boats’ crews aft, to lower the boats down. Let the boatswain go ahead
to square the yards--clear up the decks.
_Note._--If in going to moor, veer out double the mooring scope, and
then let go the anchor; then furl sails and heave in.
=353.=--TO ANCHOR ON A LEE SHORE.
The ship being on a lee shore, and no room to veer, recourse must be
had to letting go all the anchors. For this purpose all the cables are
bent and ranged, and all the anchors got ready for letting go; the
weather sheet is bitted to the forward bitts, and the weather bower to
the after bitts, to windward; the lee bower to the forward bitts, and
the lee sheet to the after ones to leeward; no buoy rope is bent except
to the weather sheet; the weather sheet is backed by the stream, and
the other anchors with kedges; see all the tiers clear, get the ship
under storm-staysails, and furl all the square sails; hook the yard
tackles; get the lower yards forward, and house topmast; when all is
ready, keep her a little off, to get headway. Let go the weather sheet
and stream anchors and veer away, then the weather bower and kedge;
down helm; haul down fore and main storm stay-sails, and the drift to
leeward will carry her to the berth of the last anchor, which let go;
haul down the mizen storm stay-sail, and veer away an equal scope on
all four cables; observe that they will bear an equal strain, and veer
to a long scope, reserving sufficient to freshen the nip with;[30]
see that the cables are well rounded, and watch them carefully. If
she should drag, sling the guns with the stoutest spare rigging on
board, having a round turn around all these cables, and heave them
over; if she should still drag, cut away the masts, and if there be no
possibility of preventing her from going on shore, take a stout spring
to one of the quarters, slip the cables, let her veer round and go on
shore end on.[31]
_Note._--In weighing these anchors, bring-to first on the cable which
has got the least scope out, taking in the slack of the others with
deck-tackles.
[30] If they are hemp cables; if chain, it is unnecessary.
[31] See Wrecked in a Gale.
=354.=--SCUDDING UNDER A FORESAIL--TO COME TO AN ANCHOR.
Get both bowers ready for letting go; haul up the foresail, making
a due allowance for headway, and run in under bare poles; when near
the berth, down helm, out with the spanker, and haul aft mizen storm
stay-sail sheet; when by the wind, let go the weather anchor and veer
away briskly; when head to wind, let go the lee anchor, and haul down
the staysail; veer-to, and bring equal strain on both cables. If
necessary, let go more anchors.
=355.=--TO MAKE A FLYING MOOR.
Make all necessary preparations for coming-to; overhaul and bitt a
double range of the weather cable, and bitt the lee one at the range
to which she is to be moored. When approaching the anchorage, reduce
sail to topsails, jib and spanker, if moderate, but if fresh, to jib
and spanker only; when near the berth of the first anchor, luff-to,
stream the buoy, and when the headway has nearly ceased, let go the
weather anchor, up helm, stand on and veer away roundly, to prevent the
range from checking her; when the full range is nearly out, hard down
the helm, down jib, clew up the topsails, out spanker, and let her lay
the range out taut; when taut, let go the lee anchor, _furl sails_,
bring-to on the weather-cable, reeving away on the lee one, and heave
into the moorings. Moor taut, to allow for veering; clap on service,
and veer it; if hemp cable, square the yards, stop in the rigging, and
clear up the decks.
=356.=--TO MOOR WITH A LONG SCOPE OF CHAIN.
Shackle the ends of both chains together, and veer away nearly the
whole of the two cables; then let go the other anchor, bring-to on the
first cable, heave in, veering away on the other; when into the mooring
mark or shackle, stopper and bitt, unshackle the chains, and secure
all; clear up the decks, and pay the chain below. (_See Unmooring and
Mooring._)
=357.=--BLOWING FRESH--IN PORT.
Range the cables, see the anchor clear, and an anchor watch set; have
leads-men in the chains--send down the upper yards, if not already
down; house top-gallant masts, and point the yards to the wind.
=358.=--SEND DOWN LOWER YARDS.
Send aloft the jeer-blocks, lash them, and reeve the jeers; see
the gear of the courses clear, trusses unrove, and lifts clear for
unreeving; hook the yard-tackles and take them forward, heave taut
the jeers, unreeve the lanyard of the slings, attend the braces and
yard-tackles, lower away by the jeers and lifts. When down make all
fast.
=359.=--TO HOUSE TOPMASTS.
Hook top-blocks, reeve pendants and falls, see the rigging clear
that leads to the topmast heads, man the top tackle-falls, slack
the lanyards of the rigging, stays and backstays; sway up, out fid,
lower away, and haul down on the rigging; when low enough, pass
heel-lashings around the lower masts, having canvass in the wake; set
taut the rigging and stays. Sheep-shank the backstays, haul taut the
running-rigging, and make all snug.
_Note._--The topmasts may be housed with the lower yards aloft, by
taking the yard-tackles forward and bousing upon them, slacking the
braces and trusses at the same time (if not patent trusses). The
patent truss has been so improved that the mast can be housed by
unclamping one side and bracing sharp up.
=360.=--TO BACK A BOWER BY A STREAM.
Bend a stream-cable to the flukes of the bower-anchor, observing to let
go the stream first; and when the cable is taut, let go the bower. If
the bower is already down and dragging, form a clinch with the stream,
around the cable, and let her drag until she brings the stream ahead.
=361.=--TO SWEEP FOR AN ANCHOR.
Make use of long stout running-rigging; middle it, and attach some
sinker to the middle, also along the bight, to confine it to the
bottom. Coil it away in two boats, and pull to windward of where the
anchor is supposed to lie; then pull in an opposite direction, veering
away on the bight from both boats; now pull in the direction of the
anchor, and when the bight catches, cross the boats, and get a round
turn with the rope; make a running bowline on the end of a hawser
around the rope, and slip it down; when fast, weigh with the launch.
_Note._--A section of small sized chain, with a rope bent to each
end, is the best means that can be used to sweep for an anchor. Cross
and bring both parts together, after which put on a shackle on both
parts, and let it run down to the anchor; then heave up on both parts.
=362.=--PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING HARBOR.
Inspect the tiller-ropes, shift hard over the helm, once or twice each
way, in order to see that the tiller is not obstructed in its sweep in
the gun-room. Place lead-lines in both channels. Point the ends of the
hawsers up the hatchways, ready for paying out in any direction. Range
both bower cables; see stoppers placed in readiness (bitt and ring).
Examine cat-head stoppers, and shank-painters of both bower-anchors.
Should the shank-painters be fitted slip-shackle fashion, care should
be taken to place men by them who are acquainted with the method of
disengaging the anchors, &c.
=363.=--WEIGHING ANCHOR IN A HEAD-SEA.
In weighing anchor with a head-sea, precaution should be taken to have
previously prepared a good deck-tackle or other purchase, which affix
to the messenger (if required), to assist the action of the capstan.
There should also be had in readiness an ample quantity of nippers.
(_See Passing Nippers._)
=364.=--CASTING, OR CUTTING THE CABLE.
When at single anchor in a roadstead, and if it be apprehended that
from the direction of the wind, and the local position of the ship with
the shore, it may be necessary to have recourse to cutting the cable,
and that casting the wrong way would endanger the safety of the vessel,
timely precaution should be taken to ensure the ships casting in the
right direction.
To effect this purpose, the stream cable should be bent to that of
the riding bower, brought through the after part, and taken round the
capstan, in readiness to act as a spring, to cant the ship previously
to cutting. Axes should be placed abaft in the vicinity of the stream
cable, for the purpose of cutting it, after the bower has been severed,
and the ship’s head cast the desired way.
_Note._--A slip or buoy-rope should be brought over “head,” so that
when the cable is cut, a buoy may be left in the roadstead to denote
the position of the anchor.
=365.=--CLINCHING CABLES.
Whatever be the number of hemp cables which are bent to the anchors,
the officer in charge is particularly cautioned to clap on a clinch
rounding, towards the inner extremity of each cable, keeping three
sheaves in the tier; upon receiving the cables on board, and clinching
their respective ends, the officer may proceed as given in the note
below.
Chain-cables should never be clinched in a manner which will not admit
of their ends being immediately disengaged, in the event of it becoming
necessary to slip, or extricate the ship from her anchors; it may be
said, that the cable may be unshackled on deck, but it may so happen,
that the last shackle is without the hawse--a circumstance which will
preclude the possibility of having recourse to this expedient.
_Note._--Pay down three sheaves into the tier, and then clap on a
racking lashing to the fore beam, previously worming and parceling in
the wake of the lashing; measure then, allowing the cable bitted, and
clap on a rounding in the wake, where the cable would bring up in the
hawse, and chafe in the cutwater. This method leaves room to freshen
hawse, in the event of having to veer to the clinch. Few ships adopt
the precaution of clapping upon their cables a clinch service; when
too late, the necessity of the practice is discovered.
=366.=--FITTING BUOY-ROPES.
Buoy-ropes are always proportioned to the depth of water. One end
is unlaid, and a buoy rope-knot made; it is then laid up again, and
whipped. A clove hitch is made, one half of the hitch being on each
side of the crown. The end with the knot is seized on the shank, one
seizing put on close to the crown, and one close to the end. The other
is bent to the buoy. Some prefer the running eye. Put over one arm, and
a half-hitch over the other arm, and seized in the cross.
=367.=--JIB-HALLIARDS WITH A WHIP.
A piece of rope, nearly equal to the double halliards, is rove through
the block at the mast-head, and hooked to the head of the jib, a hook
being spliced in the end; in the other a single block is spliced high
enough from the deck to allow the jib being hauled close down. Through
this block reeve a fall, and send both ends down through lubber’s-hole;
splice a hook in one end, and hook into a bolt; reeve the other through
a leading-block. Objections have been made to whips, but if the
standing part is put a good distance from the hauling, it is impossible
that it can take turns in--they can lead abaft the top if necessary.
I should recommend their being brought down immediately forward of
topsail halliards.
=368.=--JIB SHEETS, DOUBLE.
Two single blocks are seized into one strap, as span blocks, and the
strap secured to the clew[32] of the sail, with a lashing passed
through it, and an eye formed in the strap by crossing both parts
together, and passing a throat seizing. One end of the sheet is
clinched or spliced into an eye-bolt in the bulwarks, the other
end rove through the block in the sail, from out, in and through a
fair-leader or sheave in the bulwarks.
With pendants, a piece of rope of sufficient size and length is
middled, crossed, and a throat seizing passed round both parts, having
an eye in the bight large enough to take a lashing. In each of these
pendants, splice a single block; reeve a whip the same as in the double
sheets. The pendants should be long enough to allow the weather one to
hang slack on the fore-topmast stay, when the sheet is aft. (_See Sail
Table for iron clews._)
[32] Iron clews being fitted to all sails, the strap would be likely
to chafe. I would recommend snug clump sister-hooks, or shackles,
fitted to the clews.
=369.=--WRECKED IN A GALE.
When this sad fate appears inevitable, it would be well to make choice
(if choice can be made), of what appears the best part of the coast,
and the clearest from rocks, for beaching her.
The manner in which the boatmen beach their boats, is by laying them,
with the assistance of the helm, half-broadside on, or rather bow and
quarter on, having previously given the vessel a _heel_, _or list in
shore_. This may be done either by trimming, or by the sallying of
the crew, before the time that the vessel takes the ground. Such a
position will offer the best means of saving the crew, who may also be
materially assisted by cutting away the masts, so as to fall towards
the shore, which may be the means of assisting those on board to reach
the shore.
In establishing a communication with the shore, if it be by a boat, the
end of the deep sea-lead line should be taken in her, or if it be by
some good swimmer, with a cork jacket on, the end of the log line will
serve the same purpose; by either of these, hawsers, or other large
ropes may afterwards be got on shore.
The means of getting on shore from a wreck are by life boats, rafts,
parts of the wreck, or life preservers.
A canvass cot, with large holes at the bottom, to admit the water to
pass through freely, and having cross bars of thick rope, should also
be kept in readiness for such an occasion.
Raw-hide rope will be the best for traveling grommets. Some other
expedients might be mentioned, which are for the consideration of
officers in charge of vessels.
=370.=--SETTING UP RIGGING AT SEA.
Whenever it is required to set up the lower shrouds, at sea, the
topmast shrouds should be all let go; this practice is recommended upon
the presumption that the lower rigging will not be cast loose, or set
up on the occasion of a swell, or that the ship be rolling or pitching.
It has been well observed, that by letting go two topmast shrouds at
a time, an uneven strain has been brought upon the futtock;[33] which
prevents the shrouds of the lower rigging being equally drawn down.
Upon all occasions of setting up the lower rigging at sea, it is always
advisable to have ready prepared as many luffs as possible, so that
the shrouds may be set up at a time, and that there may be no delay
in shifting the tackles from shroud to shroud. When the lower rigging
is up, the futtock plates should be beaten down to the top, and the
shrouds set tautly up by means of tackles, ready hooked to their
respective lanyards. The method of employing the Spanish windlass, for
the purpose of setting up these shrouds, is not to be recommended. It
occupies too much time, and often creates unnecessary delay before the
topmast rigging can be set up. In staying the topmasts, the boatswain
is not recommended to bouse too far forward the heads of the mast,
and he should recollect that the angle formed by the main topmast
stay, with the fore top, is considerably greater than that of the fore
topmast with the bowsprit; and consequently that the lever of the
former is more powerful than that of the latter.
_Note._--Vessels not having catharpen legs, need not come up the
topmast rigging for the purpose of setting up lower rigging, as the
futtock-shrouds set up to the mast.
[33] This is only applicable to vessels having their futtock-rigging
set up to their lower rigging.
=371.=--SLACKING THE JIB-STAY, IN BAD WEATHER.
The jib-stay is always set up as taut as a bar of iron; consequently,
when it comes to a blow, both the spray of the sea and the rain tend to
tauten it more; in pitching, too, it must assist to spring the boom,
work the bowsprit, and cause unnecessary strain upon the rope itself.
Whenever it blows so fresh that the jib is not likely to be set, the
jib-stay should be slacked. If it be required subsequently to setting
the sail, nothing can be easier than to set the stay up, while the jib
is loosing. (_Bear this in mind._)
=372.=--STOPPING OUT TOPGALLANT YARD ROPES.
The practice of permitting the topmen to stop the topgallant yard ropes
out at their own convenience, and consequently at unstated periods,
is at variance with that order and regularity which should ever
characterize the duties and discipline of a vessel of war.
In well regulated ships, the officer of the watch, following the
movements of the senior officers, directs the boatswain or his mates
to pipe “out yard ropes;” if tripping-lines are tolerated, the yard
rope and tripping-line men should lay out together: by pursuing this
system the yards will be kept square, and will not (as is of constant
occurrence), be seen for an hour and a half before sunset, topping in
different directions. The same rule should be observed when placing on
whips for hammock-girtlines, or clothes-lines.
=373.=--PREVENTER BRACES.
It is desirable to establish a general rule, that when the topsails are
treble-reefed, the preventer braces are to be placed on the yards, and
that the relieving tackles in the gun room be placed at hand ready for
use.
=374.=--KEEPING A CLEAR ANCHOR.
That part of seamanship which relates to the method of tending a ship
to the tide, or in other words of keeping the cable clear of the
anchor, may not be inaptly termed the blind branch of the mariner’s
art--the buoy floating on the surface being the only possible guide
that the seaman possesses to point to the position of the anchor hidden
under water.
From being little understood, and by young officers it is seldom put
in practice, the art of keeping a clear anchor is by many considered
a difficult task; but, were officers to give more attention to the
matter, and to place less dependence on the master or pilot, they would
soon attain every necessary knowledge to meet the most difficult tide
case.
=375.=--ANCHOR TURNING IN THE GROUND.
[Illustration]
In order to ensure the certainty of an anchor turning in the ground,
with the tending or swinging of the ship, it is recommended (whenever
it is possible), to resort to this practice: To shoot the ship on the
same side of her anchor, at each change of tide; for if the anchor
should not turn in the ground, the cable will get foul, either about
the stock or upper fluke, and trip it out of ground. (Remember this).
=376.=--TO TEND TO A WEATHER-TIDE.
Let it be supposed that a ship is riding at single anchor, upon a
lee-tide, with the wind in the same direction as the tide, and that
it be required, upon the tide setting to windward, to tend the ship
clear of the anchor. To effect this, as soon as the ship begins to
feel the turn of the weather-tide, and that the vessel brings the wind
broad on the weather-bow, the head sails should be hoisted, and the
lee-sheets hauled aft, in order to shoot the ship from her anchor, on
a taut cable. The helm must be put “a-lee,” and kept in that position
until the tide sets the ship over to windward of her cable, and the
buoy appears on the same side with the helm. If from light winds the
buoy bears nearly a-beam, her head sails may be hauled down; but if the
breeze be strong, and it causes the ship to shoot in a direction nearly
end-on with that of the cable, bringing the buoy on her quarter, it
will be necessary to keep the fore-topmast-staysail set, in order to
check the vessel, should she be disposed to break her shear against the
action of her helm, or be inclined to drop to windward and “go over”
her anchor, in a broadside or lateral direction.
=377.=--A MAN OVERBOARD, AT SEA.
If the ship be going free, and particularly if fast through the water,
it is recommended to bring-to with the head-yards a-back, for it is
obvious if the main-yard be left square, the ship will be longer
coming-to, will shoot farther, increase the distance from the man, and
add materially to the delay of succor.
It will however require judgment, especially if blowing fresh, to be
careful and right the helm in time, or the ship will fly-to too much,
gain sternway, and risk the boat in lowering down.
The best authority recommends, that if possible, the ship should not
only be hove a-back when a man falls overboard, but she ought to be
brought around on the other tack; of course sail ought to be shortened
in stays, and the main-yard kept square. This implies the ship being on
a wind, or from the position of having the wind not above two points
abaft the beam.
The great merit of such a method of proceeding, is, that if the
evolution succeeds, the ship when round will drift towards the man,
and although there may be some small risk in lowering the boat in
stays from the ship, having at one period sternway, there will in fact
be little time lost, if the boat be not lowered until the ship be
well round, and the sternway at an end. There is more mischief done
generally, by lowering the boat too soon, than by waiting until the
fittest moment arrives for doing it coolly. It cannot be too often
repeated, that almost the whole depends upon the self-possession of the
officer of the deck.
=378.=--JIB AND STAYSAIL-HALLIARD. (_Blocks at mast-head._)
For various reasons it is advisable to dispense with the cheek-blocks,
which are usually fitted to the fore topmast-head, for the purpose
of reeving the above two ropes, together with the fore topmast
staysail-halliards. In the first place, if the fore-topmast be sprung,
or carried away in chase, and it be required to shift the mast with all
possible speed, considerable time is taken up in removing and replacing
cheek-blocks at the mast-head. (_See allowance-table, Blocks._)
_Note._--In some ships the jib and fore-topmast staysail-halliards
are rove through gins fitted for the purpose. Gins, however, are not
supplied in all ships, but you can always fit fiddle-blocks under
the eyes of your rigging; your jib and staysail-halliards reeve in
the upper sheaves, and the topsail-buntlines in the lower ones.
Cheek-blocks answer well on the trestle-trees.
=379.=--TO KEEP THE HAWSE CLEAR WHEN MOORED.
When it is nearly slack water, cant her with the helm the right way,
and if necessary, make use of jib, spanker, and yards.
=380.=--TO TEND TO WINDWARD--SINGLE ANCHOR.
When the tide slacks, sheer her with the helm, run up the jib and
fore-topmast staysail, with weather-sheets aft; when canted the
right way, the lee-sheets may be hauled aft, and the yards filled,
thus setting her abreast to a taut cable; when the buoy is on the
lee-quarter, brace the head-yards to the wind, and fill the after ones;
when the tide swings her head around so as to shake the sails, haul
down and stow them.
=381.=--TO TEND TO LEEWARD.
As the tide slackens, sheer her to the same side of the buoy on which
she came to windward, and fill the yards, which will set her end-on
over the cable; she will now by the effect of the wind, bring her stern
over the cable, and bring the buoy on her weather-quarter; put the helm
“a-weather,” and she will shoot ahead, tautening the cable, by sheering
her head from the wind. When the wind gets a little aft the beam, hoist
the jib, to prevent the cable from drawing her head to wind.
Let her lay in this position until she falls off; when the headsails
shake, haul down and stow them.
=382.=--TO BACK SHIP--(AT ANCHOR).
As the tide slacks, sheer her to windward, sheet-home and set the
mizen-topsail; thus she will back round to leeward as soon as the tide
sets up; clew up and furl the mizen-topsail.
=383.=--TO BREAK THE SHEAR.
When tending to the tide, and the ship comes over her anchor, she may
break her shear by canting her stern the wrong way; when this is the
case put the helm “a-weather,” run the jib up, fill the head-yards, and
the after-yards kept-to. Everything is now arranged to bring her round
again, when she must be managed as before mentioned.
=384.=--ON GETTING TO SEA.
[Illustration]
Unship the man-ropes, stow them away, secure the gangways, pay down
the messenger, and secure anchors and boats. The anchors ought to be
secured with preventer stoppers, and painters, particularly where they
work with a slip-shackle or tricker, which a rope catching, may drag or
drive out. In fact the jib-sheet is apt to do this if not looked to.
Wash and dry the nippers, then stow them away; wash down the anchors
and buoys, and black them as soon as possible; when clear of the land,
unbend cables, buoys, and buoy-ropes, and ship the blind-buckles,
unless prevented by peculiar circumstances.
Take off the harbor-gaskets and have them repaired and blackened
afresh, when convenient. If the bunt-gaskets, however, are retained on
the yards, roll them up snug and secure them. Put the sea-gaskets on,
make them up in cheises, and keep them before the yards.
Place bunt-line spans to their respective yards.
Have the boats’ sails and awnings dried and put below.
Quarter-boats clear for lowering.
Besides these, the watch on deck, when not employed in more pressing
duties, may be occupied to much advantage as follows, viz.:
1_st._ Exercising small-arms, cutlasses and guns;
2_d._ Pointing all ropes requiring it;
3_d._ Working up a sufficient quantity of junk, into seizing-stuff,
mats, swabs, foxes, thumb-lines, knittles, gaskets, reef-points,
nippers, salvagees, straps, &c., &c.
=385.=--ON FIRE REGULATIONS IN THE MERCHANT-SERVICE.
We now come to the most important of all the regulations in a ship,
namely, those which operate against the fatal and shocking effects of
fire. Whatever good results from stationing people in ordinary cases,
cannot be put in competition with this, which provides against the most
dreadful catastrophe incident to a ship. From the number of unfortunate
accidents of this nature we surely ought to be prepared to our utmost
for such an event.
First, by internal precautions; and
Secondly, by the means to be used against the danger.
Let there be great attention in the use of fire and lights.--The
regulations on these subjects which exist in men of war are still more
required in merchant vessels.
Fires should be put out at eight P. M., and all lights at nine P. M.,
except those required for the binnacle, and on deck.
The officer of the last dog-watch ought to report the fire extinguished
to the captain.
As each man is relieved from the wheel, he should examine below, and
report “all well” to the officer of the watch.
No naked light whatever ought to be permitted; let either lanterns or
lamps be used.
Spirits should be drawn off by day; a naked light should on no account
be permitted near a spirit cask.
Smoking should not be allowed below. I have known more than one ship
set on fire by a man’s pipe; and by segars, I have no doubt many have
been burnt.
In stowing a hold, do not allow naked lights to be used, nor any person
to smoke there when so employed.
On receiving cotton as a cargo, both those who ship as well as those
who receive it, ought to ascertain that it is in a safe state before
it be put on board. I have known instances of its being sold and moved
away, when, in a few hours, if it had not been moved, it would have
ignited.
I am acquainted with the particulars of a ship that was burnt some
years since, where oil had been stowed in the hold with cotton over
it, with what was considered safe and secure dunnage between. The
cotton, notwithstanding, absorbed a quantity of oil, became heated, and
ignited. The crew with difficulty saved themselves in the boats before
the flames burst forth, and the vessel was entirely consumed.
Chests containing bottles of inflammable substances, such as vitriol,
&c., cannot be too well secured. A medicine chest upset in a gale may
set fire to a ship.
Friction matches should never be allowed on board a ship.
The coals in steamers have frequently taken fire, and in many cases
with the most fatal consequences. Too much care cannot be taken in the
selection of coals; a strict examination ought to be made as to their
state when received and stowed, and no suspicious circumstances should
be then overlooked. When receiving coals, avoid throwing the fresh ones
on the old, which ought to be kept uppermost, and _first_ for use. When
once they become ignited, I can hardly offer a remedy for the evil.
When coals take fire, some people throw water upon them, and smother
the fire by wet beds. Hot water, or steam, if they can be used, are
more expeditious than cold water in extinguishing fire, I believe. To
attempt to discharge the coals, would allow the air freer access, and
would be certain to increase the power of the fire.
A few canvass buckets, with long lanyards, should be always prepared
and ready on deck for drawing water.
When a fire is first discovered, shorten all low sails directly,
courses up, stay-sails and wind-sails down, boat-covers taken off.
If the sails should take fire from lightning, or any other cause,
cutting away the mast appears the most likely method of saving the ship.
At first, endeavor if possible, to stifle the fire; which may be best
done by shutting off any draught of air, and smothering it with wet
bedding, small sails, &c., until a good supply of water can be applied.
If the fire is forward, put before the wind until it is necessary to
“out boats,” then bring-to.
If the fire is aft, or a-midships, keep to the wind.
=386.=--STATION BILL FOR FIRE, IN THE MERCHANT SERVICE.[34]
Coolness and steadiness in any misfortune by fire are essential to
arrest it.
If a fire break out below, the hatchways should be immediately covered,
to prevent a draught of air.
Ring the ship’s bell to call the men to their stations.
======================================================================
MEN’S NAMES. DUTIES.
A very steady man ---- To the helm.
{First, to cover hatchways with gratings
{and tarpaulins.
The carpenter, and one {
man. {Secondly, to rig pumps and lead hoses; and
{
{Thirdly, get the tools ready for cutting
{away, if required.
The chief mate, boatswain, {To attend where the fire is, and pass
and ship’s cook. {water to it, &c.
A man of each watch or {To the pumps, and to draw water as for
more. {washing decks.
A boy. {To collect all the buckets to the part
{where the water is being drawn.
{First duty to haul up courses, brail up
{trysails and spanker.
Remainder of starboard {
watch. {Second duty, draw and pass water with the
{fire buckets; then for third duty see
{below.
{First duty, to haul up courses, brail up
{trysails and spanker.
Remainder of larboard {
watch. {Second duty, to soak small sails and
{bedding to throw over and smother the
{fire; then for third duty see below.
Cabin steward, and cabin {If any powder or other combustibles are on
boy. {board, to throw them overboard if
{possible, or drown them.
Second mate to direct fire {If the fresh water is in tanks, turn the
hose, and the supply of {waste-valves[35] of two of them for a
water from deck. {first supply for the pump, and then go to
{direct fire hose, &c.
{Third duties of the crew, the yard and
The crew. {stay-tackles to be got up ready for
{getting out boats.
{Fourth duties of the crew, if the fire
{appears to increase, out boats, and lower
The crew. {down the quarter boats; let them lay off
{in a string to windward, with a man and a
{boy as keepers, ready for the rest of the
{crew if required.
The captain ---- To attend at all the stations as he deems
best.
If the ship cannot be saved, the passengers and crew are the first
objects, with some fresh water and biscuit; a compass, quadrant and
Bowditch. Unless there is sufficient time, and it can be done without
endangering the sea-worthiness of the boats, nothing should be taken
that is not essential to the mere preservation of life, and necessary
for navigating the boats.
[34] This bill ought to be written out or printed, and hung up for
every one’s inspection.
[35] The mate ought to have the key of the valves of the water tanks
in his own keeping.
=387.=--TAKING TO THE BOATS.
The captain should in his own mind, and by a private memorandum,
station the passengers and crew to the boats on board, and likewise
make the persons here specified be responsible for having the following
articles put into the boats.
======================================================================
{Compass, Maury on Navigation, sextant,
Captain. {spyglass, Nautical Almanac, pencils and
{writing paper, general chart, pocket
{watch, pair of compasses, &c.
{Oars, masts, sails, boat-hooks, bolt of
First mate. {canvass, boat’s compass, Bowditch’s chart,
{ensign.
{Two or three bags of biscuits, some
{breakers of water, quadrant, pencils and
Second mate. {writing paper, half-gill measure, a
{musket, box of cartridges, and flints or
{caps.
Surgeon ---- Pocket instruments.
{Hammer, nails, sheet-lead, grease,
Carpenter. {fearnought, oakum, saw, chisel,
{turn-screw, cold chisel, a vial of sweet
{oil, any small iron rod.
{Coil of inch rope, long reel, deep-sea
Third mate, or boatswain. {reel, painted canvass, marling-spikes,
{spun-yarn, &c.
Sail maker. {Palm, needles, twine, fishing-lines,
{hooks, painted canvass, boat’s awning.
{Tinder-box, flints and tinder, small box,
Cook, and steward. {lantern and candles, cheese, cabin
{biscuit, chocolate.
Each person. {A tin pot, a pocket knife, a change of
{flannels and stockings.
With a scarcity of food, savages attempt to lessen the cravings of
hunger by tightening a belt around the waist; and by sucking a pebble
they in some degree alleviate thirst. Chewing tobacco may also be
serviceable under such circumstances. In such emergencies all must fare
alike.
=388.=--LOSING A RUDDER AT A CRITICAL MOMENT, (_such as crossing a Bar,
&c._)
A ship might lose her rudder at a critical moment in crossing the bar
of a river, when a few minutes more might run her aground, if she were
unmanageable; and in this case, what temporary rudder is best becomes
a question for which a few moments only are given to decide. The plan
of steering by the stream-cable payed out astern, or by the stern-boat
lowered instantly, with the plug out, and towed astern by a hawser,
with guys leading up to each quarter, would perhaps then be adopted;
while a ship losing her rudder at sea would have leisure to adopt any
other plan.
It might be an advantage, if every vessel would take some opportunity
of trying how she could steer with a stern-boat in the manner
described, and what length of tow-line was required to enable her to
steer the most easily, so as to avoid wild yawing. The experiment might
be made in moderate weather with the wind on the quarter, and also
right aft, under top-sails, top-gallant-sails and fore-sail, running
five or six knots. Nothing gives confidence so much as practice.
=389.=--STEAMERS GETTING AGROUND.
As steamers would probably do so with very fresh way on, they ought at
once to stop their engines, but on _no account_ to attempt to reverse
them, until the extent of the injury be ascertained; otherwise they
may go down in deep water. Their first duty is to out boats, and place
the passengers in safety in them; the crew might then ascertain the
state of the vessel; if she is likely to float, and can be got off, the
attempt to do so should be made; but if not, the crew can take to the
boats.
=390.=--ON THE DUTY OF REMAINING BY A DAMAGED VESSEL.
When two vessels have run foul of each other, the one which is the
least injured is bound, by every sense of justice and humanity, to
stay by the other to render every assistance in her power; a contrary
proceeding ought to make the guilty party liable to some punishment. If
one appears likely to sink, the boat lashings should be cut, that the
boat or boats may be got out or float off.
[Illustration]
When freshly blows the northern gales,
Then under courses snug we fly;
When lighter breezes swell the sails,
Then royals proudly sweep the sky.
[Illustration: United States Razee or Frigate INDEPENDENCE, at Anchor.]