tear of servants and marketing, give up their comfortable homes for
the confinement of a parlor and bed-room in some fashionable hotel or
lodging house. Or it may be that only a removal is contemplated, and
Mr. Leeds is called in to superintend the sale of furniture that has
got behind the times, like the street or square in which it has been
used, and carpets much too small for the enlarged views of the wife
of the successful merchant. Months before, the young married people
have been going from house to house, peering into closets and dumb
waiters, measuring floors with an accurate eye, or halls by sober,
long-reaching strides, and taking the altitude of windows for shade
or curtain. They stop at Berrian's, on their way to business, and
pause before Haughwout's huge windows of china and glass. Peterson &
Humphrey's carpets are more attractive than the prints at Goupil's
or the landscapes at Stevens's. They notice the price of flour in
the morning paper, and consult about the wet linen goods "from the
Humboldt"--a cargo that would seem as inexhaustible as the furniture
of the Mayflower. By and by, the mornings are passed at auctions,
and "bargains" begin to crowd their rooms, as heterogeneous in
manufacture as in use. All at once, they find their purchase brought to
a stand-still by lack of funds, and the house is not half furnished.
Ah, they had forgotten to make a calculation beforehand, and purchase
actual articles of necessity before matters of luxury!
Now they go on as they should have commenced, cautiously and
economically; still, the kitchen and chamber departments show
reprovingly for some time to come how they have been robbed for the
sake of the parlor curtains and mantle ornaments.
They should have had some good old friend, like ourselves, to say,
"Now, my dears, I like your plan of housekeeping; you will find it the
most comfortable and economical in the end, if you will only go the
right way to work. You have made a fortunate selection in your house.
It is neither too large for your means nor your family. How many rooms
in it? How have you disposed of them? Now take a spare scrap of paper,
and write them down in order.
"_Begin_ with your kitchen, _end_ with your parlor. Reverse the
usual plan, if your aim is comfort and not show. Only Mrs. M. or
N. will notice whether you have shades or curtains. If your family
lack comfortable bedding, or your kitchen needful conveniences, you
certainly incommode those you care most to please. Take the kitchen,
for example. How large is it? Will you have it covered with carpeting
or oil-cloth? How many yards, and at what price? Have you a range? If
not, count the cost of stove and boilers. How many chairs and tables?
At what price? The dresser, and delf necessary for cooking and
servants' use." Fortunately, the lists of the furnishing warehouses
save an endless amount of thought and trouble, especially in the matter
of cooking utensils. Those unlearned in such research will find one of
them in our answers to correspondents the present number.
As for the kitchen, so for the dining-room, the china-closet, the
linen-press, store-room, chambers, and finally the parlor. Make your
calculation as accurately as possible, to come within the limit you
have set yourself, remembering in all cases to take from articles
of mere adornment or show, rather than essential comforts, and that
infinite petty mortifications and care can be saved to a house-keeper
by making plenty, not superfluity, her rule.
* * * * *
A LESSON WORTH REMEMBERING.
THERE are very few of our readers--we take it for granted--who
have not met with the little book, "A Trap to Catch a Sunbeam." A
longer story, by the same author, has made its appearance in England,
prettily illustrated by Gilbert. The title is "Influence," neither more
nor less; and the object in view is to show the weight good or bad
influence will have on the character, even from the nursery.
As most appropriate to our "Centre-Table Chat," which unites gayeties
and gravities, we give as a sample of the new book. Speaking of the
education of Cyril, its hero's sister--
"Yes, Julia was improving in every knowledge but one of the most
important, the knowledge which a mother's example could best have
taught her, to know and perform her mission here, the proper exercise
of _woman's paramount influence over man_."
There would be fewer wretched marriages, fewer dissipated, degraded
men, if this lesson were included in a woman's education; if they were
taught to feel the angel duty which devolves on them--to keep the
wandering steps of those who are tempted so much more than they in the
paths of virtue and peace; to make them feel that in the busy world
are noise and confusion; that at home there are order and repose; that
there "eyes look brighter when they come, that the smile of welcome is
ever ready to receive them, _the work, the books are ever ready to be
laid aside to minister to their pleasure_"--they would find amusement
then at home, nor strive to seek it elsewhere.
And not alone to the higher classes of society should this be taught.
It should be a lesson instilled into the minds of all, high and low,
rich and poor. Duty has seldom so strong a hold on men as women; they
cannot, they will not, for _duty's_ sake, remain in a dull, tedious, or
ill-managed, querulous home, but leave it to seek elsewhere the comfort
and amusement which fail them there; and, when riot and revelry have
done their work, the wives and sisters who have done so little to make
them otherwise are pitied for their bad husbands and brothers.
* * * * *
FOR THE LOVERS OF JEWELRY.
THE great Koh-i-noor diamond displayed in the English Exhibition, and
shown by a model in the New York Crystal Palace, has a rival in one now
deposited in the Bank of England by the consignees, Messrs. Dory &
Benjamin, of London. It comes from Rio Janeiro, and weighs 254½ carats,
of the purest water. When cut and polished, it is expected to surpass
the Indian diamond in size and brilliancy. It has been shown to the
queen, and is the subject of general remark in the English prints.
Ball & Black, of New York, have still in their window the celebrated
necklace of pearls displayed at the Crystal Palace. It consists
of a single string of pure pearls, threaded like the gold beads of
our grandmothers, and about the same size. The cross attached is of
diamonds, in a rich and tasteful setting. The pearls are of such
unusual size and purity that at first it seems almost impossible that
they can be real.
Necklaces are worn much more than they have been, for full dress
especially. The most fashionable and costly style is of diamonds, and
quite flat, either set in a pattern or a single row of brilliants.
Ladies who cannot afford this costly appendage to their toilets adopt
a very fine Venetian gold chain, to which is suspended a medallion of
precious stones set with diamonds.
* * * * *
OUR FASHION DEPARTMENT.
WE do not often allude to what we have done or intend to do in this
department, keeping the even tenor of our way, and letting our chitchat
speak for itself. But of late we have noticed that other publications
assume to have been the first to give detailed directions, in addition
to the meagre description of the fashion plates at first offered to the
public. Hailing as we do from the Quaker City, we shall "mildly
remonstrate," and only assert that _this is not the case_.
The present fashion editor was the first to originate the monthly
letter or record of the fleeting changes of the season, and since
that time has been engaged in collecting, with more or less research
and difficulty, from foreign _journals des modes_, the importer, the
mantuamaker, and the milliner, such items as will be of practical or
suggestive use, and setting these before our readers in a simple,
reliable style, differing from the French raptures of the "_Moniteur_,"
or the meagre descriptions of American prints, where the fashions
are a last consideration with the publisher--tacked on, because some
one else had set the example. To us it seems as consistent with the
scientific and professedly critical character they assume, as a lady's
French bonnet would appear as the crowning-point of costume on "a
potent, grave, and reverend seignior." But we have no quarrel with
them for assuming our especial badge as a "Lady's Book," nor are we at
all particular in demanding credit of them for our borrowed plumes; we
would only suggest that modesty might be a becoming addition to them,
and truthfulness an equal grace.
Now, any of our lady readers who have been invited by friends in
the country to "let them know what is worn this season," will at
once understand the time and trouble it takes to answer such a
request satisfactorily. To relieve them from this task is what we
have undertaken, at the same time giving variety to our chat by the
description of any new manufacture, article of jewelry, fashionable
shops, furniture, etc. etc. We did not plan or even dream of exciting
emulation or envious remark, nor do we feel the slightest malice or
ill-will towards those who thus confess their inferiority. Only, as the
school children say, "will they please to let us alone," as we do them.
* * * * *
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
"A YOUNG AMATEUR GARDENER" will find the following effectual in keeping
the birds from his freely planted seeds. Mix together one pound of gas
tar, quarter of a pound brown spirits of tar, and quarter pound of
melted grease. Dip twine in this mixture, and weave it backwards and
forwards over the beds, on sticks firmly planted at the side, a few
inches high.
[Illustration: GODEY'S MODEL COLORED FASHIONS.]
We _have_ heard of "cherries without stones." Here is a French
horticultural receipt for producing them, which we have never seen
tested, however: "In the spring, before the circulation of the sap, a
young seedling cherry-tree is split from the upper extremity down to
the fork of its roots; then, by means of a piece of wood in the form
of a spatula, the pith is carefully removed from the tree, in such a
manner as to avoid any excoriations or other injury; a knife is used
only for commencing the split. Afterwards the two sections are brought
together, and tied with woollen, care being taken to close hermetically
with clay the whole length of the cleft. The sap soon reunites the
separated portions of the tree, and, two years afterwards, cherries are
produced of the usual appearance, but, instead of stones, there will
only be small soft pellicles."
"MRS. LOUISE M. C." will find farina boiled in milk the best food for an
infant, next to its natural substance. It is well to change with
arrowroot, in case of sickness; but, as constant food, it will fatten,
but not strengthen the child.
"MISS J."--We do not think the acceptance of a bouquet objectionable
from any gentleman admitted to the family as a visitor. Flowers, books,
and music are the most suitable gifts. Any article of dress or jewelry
given or accepted by persons with no other tie than ordinary visiting
acquaintance, is not in good taste, to say the least.
"MRS. S. D.," of Mobile.--Dress caps are of the lightest possible
description, a mixture of blonde, flowers, and ribbon. Much blonde is
used in trimming everything. The gold and silver embroidered ribbon is
only suitable for evening, or for dress bonnets.
"MILTON, Pa."--The "Dress Book" has been sent; the directions are all
practical.
"A YOUNG WIFE" has our best wishes in her new undertaking. If she is at
all systematic, she will not find furnishing so difficult as she
anticipates. We subjoin the desired list:--
_Kitchen Furnishing List for_ $30.
1 Kitchen Shovel, Tongs, and Poker.
1 Iron Tea-Kettle.
1 Tinned Iron Pot.
1 Tinned Iron Saucepan.
1 Soap-stone Griddle.
2 Tin Bake-Pans.
1 Tin Dripping Pan.
1 Tin Saucepan.
1 Small Tin Kettle.
1 Pepper and Flour Dredge.
3 Tin Pie Plates.
1 Tin Wash-Basin.
1 Dish Pan.
3 Table and Tea-Spoons, Iron.
1 Chop-Knife and Bowl.
1 Tea and Coffee Canister.
2 Japanned Lamps.
1 Match Safe.
1 Chamber Pail.
2 Smoothing Irons.
2 Large Cedar Wash-Tubs.
1 Wash-Board.
3 Doz. Clothes-Pins.
1 Pint Measure.
1 Set Table Mats.
1 Britannia Coffee Pot.
1 " Tea Pot.
6 Knives and Forks, Stag Handles.
1 Pair Carvers to match.
1 Spice Box.
1 Rolling Pin.
1 Corkscrew and Tunnel.
1 Large Waiter.
2 Painted Pails.
1 Coal Hod.
1 Gridiron.
1 Fry Pan.
1 Cullender.
1 Coffee Boiler.
1 Tea Pot.
1 Grater.
1 Tin Dipper.
1 Egg-Whip.
1 Basting-Spoon.
1 Skimmer.
1 Ladle.
1 Meat Fork.
1 Meat Knife.
1 Knife Board.
2 Scrub Brushes.
1 Dust Pan.
1 Dust Brush.
2 Brooms.
1 Coffee Mill.
1 Clothes Horse.
1 Flour Sieve.
1 Oil Filler.
1 Knife-Box.
1 Door Mat.
1 Kitchen Table.
1 Potato Masher.
1 Flour Pail.
1 Pastry Board.
1 Clothes Line.
Fashions.
NOTICE TO LADY SUBSCRIBERS.
Having had frequent applications for the purchase of jewelry,
millinery, etc., by ladies living at a distance, _the Editress of the
Fashion Department_ will hereafter execute commissions for any who
may desire it, with the charge of a small percentage for the time
and research required. Bridal wardrobes, spring and autumn bonnets,
dresses, jewelry, bridal cards, cake-boxes, envelopes, etc. etc.,
will be chosen with a view to economy, as well as taste; and boxes or
packages forwarded by express to any part of the country. For the last,
distinct directions must be given.
_Orders, accompanied by checks for the proposed expenditure, to be
addressed to the care of L. A. Godey, Esq., who will be responsible for
the amount, and the early execution of commissions._
_No order will be attended to unless the money is first received._
Instructions to be as minute as is possible, accompanied by a note
of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on which
_much depends_ in choice. Dress goods from Levy's or Stewart's; cloaks,
mantillas, or talmas, from Brodie's, 51 Canal Street, New York; bonnets
from Miss Wharton's; jewelry from Bailey's or Warden's, Philadelphia,
or Tiffany's, New York, if requested.
* * * * *
DESCRIPTION OF STEEL FASHION PLATE.
The unusually beautiful fashion plate of this month gives a very
correct idea of prevailing spring styles.
_Fig. 1st._--A dress suitable for the morning at a fashionable country
house or watering-place, or for dinner. As a home dress, it is very
tasteful and simple. The robe may be of pink taffeta, cashmere, or
mousseline, open from the throat to the hem of the skirt, though the
waist is fitted close to the bust, as in an ordinary tight dress.
This opening is finished on each side by a double _ruche_ of the same
material, the edges pinked, and is laced across by narrow taffeta
ribbon. Chemisette in plaits, with a lace frill. Plain cambric skirt.
Shawl of cambric embroidery; close bonnet of pink taffeta and black
lace, with an edge formed of very narrow ribbons interlaced with black,
to resemble a plaid.
_Fig. 2d._--Walking or dinner-dress of pale green silk, made plain and
close; sleeves open and loose. Light mantle of flounces or volants,
of white guipure lace, headed by a narrow ribbon of violet color. The
bonnet is covered with lace to correspond, and has leaves and ribbons
of pale violet crape; tied with broad white taffeta ribbon. Parasol of
violet lined with white silk.
It will be noticed that our styles are suited to the May of our
Southern readers, and the June wardrobes of our Northern belles, being
exceedingly light and simple, as summer dress should always be. Readers
round about us are apt to forget that we have to be thoughtful of our
far away subscribers as well as themselves.
* * * * *
CHITCHAT UPON PREVAILING FASHIONS
BRODIE'S MANTILLA EMPORIUM--SHADES OF FASHION, ETC. ETC.
THE present promenade of Broadway extends scarcely to the Astor, in a
downward direction; the crush of omnibuses, drays, business men
forgetful of especial courtesy in their haste, porters, and laborers,
conspire to make a chaos of confusion and discomfort below the Park
which few ladies care to adventure. The tide of shoppers sets downward
from the New York Hotel, and upwards from the Astor or Irving, meeting
in a grand confluence at Canal Street, where you may pat the curbstone
with your gaiter from three minutes to a quarter of an hour, watching an
opportunity to stem the current and cross to the other side in safety.
Standing on this upper corner, you are in full view of the large
freestone front of 51 Canal, the mantilla establishment of Brodie, to
which we have promised to introduce our readers.
At this present writing, when everybody wants a mantilla, the graceful
article of costume being considered as needful as a spring bonnet, the
lower front of Brodie's has a most inviting prospect. It is entirely
occupied by two enormous windows and a door of plate glass; the windows
being, in reality, small Crystal Palaces for the accommodation of two
slowly revolving dames in court costume of brocade or _soie d'antique_,
bearing upon their regal shoulders the _chef-d'œuvres_ of the
establishment, whether of velvet, guipure, or taffeta, as the season
represented may be. At their feet are thrown, in apparent careless,
but really artistic confusion, other designs not less elegant and
attractive. These figures are of wax, modelled and colored from life,
and, having supported the onerous public duties of the World's Fair,
are now in the honorable retirement of comparatively private, though
by no means secluded life. The room which you enter from the street is
fitted up with superb mirrors, ovals and pier, the central one being of
remarkable width as well as length. This is not, however, the principal
show-room, though the office and much other business is carried on
there in appropriate departments, handsomely fitted up. The stairs,
covered with velvet carpeting, as, indeed, the whole establishment,
lead you to the second floor, pannelled with plate glass mirrors set
between the long windows, and in every place in which they can well be
inserted. The walls are covered, as below, with delicate French paper,
of white and gold, and, with the rich carpet, a drawing-room rather
than a business establishment is suggested. Here there are piles of the
most elegant and costly styles of mantillas and scarfs, that have given
place to the heavy clothes and velvets of the just departed season;
and here is a fluttering of silk dresses, a waving of spring garlands,
as the busy crowd of purchasers flutter back and forth, exclaiming,
"rapturizing," choosing, and trying on the profusion of styles before
them. In the centre, is a light iron railing, still white, in keeping
with the style of the rooms, over which you can watch the proceedings
of the store below, or, looking upwards to a similar balcony, you see
another story, apparently fitted and furnished as the show-room in
which you now are.
This is the wholesale department, of course by far the most important
of all. Ordinarily, you would have no call to ascend the stairs; but,
being this morning a privileged visitor, you find there Mr. Brodie
himself, in the midst of his importations, designs, and manufactures,
his clerks, his saleswomen, whose patient shoulders and black silk
dresses give an additional air to the latest styles, and his wholesale
customers, for whom he is daily shipping packages, parcels, and boxes,
north, south, east, and west; but especially south and west, where
doubtless our own subscribers will be among the purchasers and the
wearers.
If your curiosity will carry you up still another flight, Mr. Brodie's
politeness will conduct you to a passing glance of the work-room,
occupying the floor above. It would not be polite to watch too long the
rows upon rows of girls and women busy with the silks, laces, ribbons,
and other delicate materials of their craft; but you see that they are
all busy and comfortable, with light and good fresh air in abundance.
Yet higher! You noticed below how rich and how abundant was the
embroidery, with what precision it was executed; here there is a row
of frames, where embroidery, the lightest and richest, is executed by
those to whom the work is not a pastime, but a regular and profitable
occupation. Here is the pure white _poult de soie_ of the "Snow-Drop,"
for instance, cut and ready for making up; the design traced upon
it, tacked as smoothly upon the frame as the canvas of a picture, is
stretched before the artist. The rapid and regular movement of the
needle is covering it with the rich work that the young Southern bride
will glory over, when the all-important box--the _trousseau_--reaches
her from New York. There is, besides these frames, a large embroidery
department, situated up town, under Mr. Brodie's constant supervision.
But here the new styles are first tried, that he may thus be able to
regulate the prices of work, the quantity of material, etc., to be
given out. In preparing for the winter season, this whole floor is
filled with quilting-frames for the mantle and cloak linings; still
another branch of female industry.
Some idea of the great amount of employment an establishment like
this gives to the industrious classes of the city, may be formed
from this bird's-eye view of the interior of Brodie's. Three hundred
workmen are engaged from season to season in preparing the piles of
costly draperies we have seen, as the raw material comes in only to
be manufactured. Thus, the velvets, cloths, silks, etc., with the
lighter fabrics, and trimmings of ribbon, lace, gimp, are imported by
Mr. Brodie himself, and his designs are furnished by leading Parisian
houses, known in the pages of "_La Follet_," "_La Modiste_," "_Petit
Courrier des Dames_," and other journals of fashion.
Last, but not least, this fine building, with its costly decorations,
this immense stock of goods, these busy purchasers and workwomen, are
the rapid products of a persevering industry and enterprise that, were
the story told, could scarcely be believed. The private history of most
successful business men is a commentary upon the proverb, "Diligence is
the mother of good-luck." Mr. Brodie's is a remarkable illustration.
His is the only establishment in the country entirely devoted to the
one branch of manufacture; his whole time, thoughts, correspondence,
and Parisian visits centering on its improvement and success.
We have given time and space to the principal theme of our "Chat,"
partly that our readers may see how various are the styles of every
article of wearing apparel, and how safely they may trust themselves to
a new and graceful form, even though Mrs. Jones and Mrs. Brown do not
happen to have brought it from New York or New Orleans. At Brodie's,
for instance, each style is made up in every prevailing shade of silk.
What folly in Mrs. Jones to say, "Green is the rage!" In a large city,
nothing is the rage; if it approaches such a culmination, it is given
up in a very few weeks.
As of mantles, so of bonnets. The milliner has her _Parisienne_ models,
and her working materials, and employées. No two bonnets in her
show-room must be precisely alike. So of the mantuamaker, who varies
her shapes and her trimmings to suit her material, the figure, height,
or complexion of her customer. Straw bonnets are perhaps the most
uniform of all in shape; but here, again, there is every variety of
ribbon and trimming. No two bows are made alike. _City people will not
submit to uniforms._
There is a general _style_ in the fashions of each season, but
inflections and shades as various as its grass and leafage. Our next
"Chat," as in the April number, will be of these, as June admits of
changes that our Northern May denies. July will claim, as usual, its
watering-place and travelling fashions, with nursery items, welcome at
any season to the busy mother of a household.
FASHION.
* * * * *
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| Transcriber notes: |
| |
| P. 388. Closing brackets. |
| p. 397. 'Still unmarried', added incomplete word 'still'. |
| P. 404. 'Actaurus in Bootes' changed to 'Arcturus in Boötes'. |
| P. 416. 'find it out', joining word likely to be 'it'. |
| P. 432. 'whch is', changed to 'which is'. |
| P. 466. 'haev' changed to 'have' in 'may not have'. |
| P. 473. 'Listz' changed to 'Liszt'. |
| p. 473. Incomplete word added 'feeling'. |
| |
| Fixed various punctuation. |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+