_b_, the upper part of the cape forming an epaulette over the shoulder.
Fig. 4.--The sleeve, showing the muslin sleeve underneath, as in the
engraving, _à Watteau_ shape, fastened by a bow of ribbon. We have
given the pattern of the whole sleeve.
[Illustration: DIAGRAMS OF THE DRESS SHOWN ON PAGE 453.]
* * * * *
[Illustration: COTTAGE FURNITURE.
The above figure is a handsome pattern for a sofa. The castors are sunk
in the legs.]
* * * * *
WORK-TABLE FOR JUVENILES;
OR,
LITTLE MARY'S HALF-HOLIDAY.
"WELL, my dear, I am glad to see you ready for work again."
"Here are six yards of pink satin ribbon, about an inch wide, some pink
sarsnet, some card-board, black net, and plaited straw. What kind of
straw is it, mamma?"
[Illustration: BACK OF A WATCH-POCKET.]
"It is called straw-beading, and is employed in the same way that
split straw was once used; but as it is flexible, and to be had in any
length, it is much more easily worked. Besides the things you have
mentioned, there is some pink sewing silk, and a little stiff muslin.
Now you have all your materials complete, and I have only to show you
how to use them. Begin by cutting out the shape for the back of the
watch-pocket. Here is a drawing of it. It is 7 inches long, and 4½ in
the widest part. Mark the depth of three inches from the bottom, and
form this into a half round, then cut it into a point from the widest
part to the top. The lower part, which is for the pocket, is thus three
inches deep, and the top four inches. You will require two pieces of
card-board of this shape and size, which must be covered on both sides
with pink silk. Tack them together round the edges."
"These pieces are for the backs. Are the fronts of the pockets made of
card-board, too?"
"No; you will use the stiff muslin for them. They must be in the half
circle form, 3 inches deep, but 5½ inches wide at the top. They must
also be covered with silk on both sides. Now cut out two pieces of
black net, rather larger than the backs, and two more (also allowing
for turnings in) for the fronts. Do you remark anything peculiar in the
net?"
"It is like the imitation netting you brought from Paris, mamma; is
it not? The holes are perfect diamonds, and much larger than in any
English net."
"Yes, it is part of that I brought with me. Being so open, it is easy
to slip the straw through it. Take the end of the straw, pass it under
two threads, and over three, in one line. Cut it off close to the edge
of the net. Run in as many lines as you can in the same direction, but
with intervals of four holes, five threads between them. Cross them
with others in the same way, both straws passing under the _same_ hole
when they cross. All the four pieces of net must be worked in the same
way, and then tacked on, to cover the silk on one side. Now sew the
fronts to the backs. The ribbon trimming must now be prepared. It is to
be quilled in the centre, in the way called _box_ quilling; that is,
one plait must be to the right, and the next to the left. Do enough
for the top of each pocket separately, and put it on, then a length to
go completely round. Finish each pocket with a knot of ribbon at the
point, and a small loop to pin it to the bed."
"Do you know, mamma, I was inclined to think you had not matched the
sarsnet and ribbon well? The sarsnet looked so much the darker. Now
they correspond perfectly. How is that?"
"You forget that the sarsnet is covered with net, which softens the
depth of the tint considerably. Had the covering been muslin, it must
have been still deeper, to correspond with the uncovered ribbon. It is
for want of the consideration of these small points that there is so
frequently a want of harmony in the tints of amateur needlewomen."
"And now, mamma, what next? For I have a good deal of spare time still."
"You said you would like to work papa a pair of slippers, so I have
contrived a design for you, which will use up all your remnants of
wool. We will call it the dice pattern. Of each color you may use, you
will require two shades with black and white. You can mark on your
canvas the outline of the slippers with a soft pen and ink; then work
from the drawing I have made, beginning at the toe. You may use any
number of colors, only let them be well chosen, and falling in stripes.
Do not put green and blue, or any other two colors which do not
blend well, close together. You may try the effect with shades in the
following order: violet, orange, green, crimson, blue. That part which
is quite white in the drawing is done in white wool, and there are two
spotted squares which are to be black. Then the upper side of each die
is in the darker shade of whatever color may be used, and the under
light. Fill it up with black. If you work on Penelope canvas, you will
find it much easier."
[Illustration: DICE PATTERN FOR SLIPPERS.]
* * * * *
EMBROIDERY.--DRESS UNDERSLEEVE.
(_See Brown Cut in front of Book._)
_Materials._--Half a yard of fine Swiss muslin; embroidery cotton, No.
100.
TRACE the pattern upon the muslin with a quill pen and blue mixed with
gum-water; make the leaves, stems, and flowers in raised satin stitch;
the circles in button-hole stitch, either making them close or open, as
may be preferred; if close, a raised spot must be worked in the centre
of each. Work the edge in button-hole stitch.
* * * * *
PATTERNS FOR EMBROIDERY.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: PART OF AN EMBROIDERED DRESS UNDER SLEEVE]
* * * * *
EVANGELINE AND ANTOINETTE.
(See engravings on page 385.)
EVANGELINE.--Silk embroidered, and trimmed with two rows of
guipure lace--one row of lace round the yoke, and one about ten inches
from the bottom, each row headed with a narrow quilling of ribbon,
which also goes down the front and round the neck. On the yoke and
between the rows of lace there is handsome embroidery.
ANTOINETTE. _An entirely new pattern._--The mantilla is
entirely formed of rows of lace or pinked silk on a silk or thin
foundation.
* * * * *
LACE MANTILLA AND TABLET MANTILLA.
(See engravings on page 388.)
LACE MANTILLA.--This mantilla has three capes--the first is in
depth twenty-three inches, the second eighteen inches, and the third
fourteen inches, with lace edging to match. The collar is six inches in
depth, with a bow of ribbon behind.
TABLET MANTILLA.--_Material._ Watered or plain silk. It is
made with a yoke, and falls low on the shoulders. For trimming, it
is cut in turrets, trimmed with narrow braid and netted fringe sewed
underneath.
* * * * *
MARQUISE AND NAVAILLES.
(See engravings on page 389.)
MARQUISE.--_Silk Pelisse._ The body is close; it is trimmed
with three rows of goffered ribbons disposed in arcades, and terminated
at each point by loops of ribbons one over the other. A row of ribbons
runs round the bottom of the body, which has also a lace trimming that
falls over the opening of the sleeve. The skirt falls in flutes; it has
three rows of ribbons and a lace flounce.
NAVAILLES.--_Shawl-Mantelet_, of taffetas trimmed with lace,
fringe, and silk ribbons having velvet stripes. It opens like a shawl
in front, and comes high behind. A lace of two inches in width turns
down on the neck as far as the bow on the breast; a point falls behind
like a little shawl, and is bordered with a ribbon sewed on flat, and a
lace of about five inches, besides a fringe; in front this lace forms
a bertha. The lower part of the garment, sewed on under the point,
is rounded, and hangs in flutes behind. It is bordered with the same
ribbon, accompanied by the same, and fringe. The ends in front are
pointed.
* * * * *
SPRING FASHIONS.
(See engraving on page 390.)
Fig. 1. _Dress._--Skirt of steel-colored gray silk, without any
trimming. Sachet of black velvet; the front opening to a point, and the
basque rounded and edged with a deep fall of black lace set on rather
full. The sleeves, which are demi-long and loose at the ends, are
likewise edged with lace chemisette and undersleeves of worked muslin.
A round cap of Honiton lace, the front edged with pointed vandykes. The
cap is ornamented at each side with bows of ribbon having long flowing
ends, edged with fringe. The ribbon has a white ground, and is figured
with a pattern similar to that called the Victoria plaid. The bows are
intermingled with bouquets of white roses. Hair bracelets, with snaps
of gold and turquoise.
* * * * *
Fig. 2. _Little Girl's Dress._--Frock of dark blue glacé; the skirts
ornamented with four narrow ruches of ribbon, placed two and two
together. The corsage is in the jacket style, half high in the neck,
and fitting closely to the form. The basque is edged with a double
ruche of ribbon, which is carried up the front and round the top of
the corsage. The sleeves just descend below the turn of the elbow,
and are trimmed at the end with ribbon ruche. The undersleeves are of
jaconet muslin, drawn in a full puff, confined at the wrists by bands
of needlework insertion. The chemisette is high to the throat, and is
formed of two rows of drawn muslin, divided by a row of needlework
insertion, and finished at top by a row of the same. Short trousers of
white cambric muslin edged with a bordering of needlework. The front
hair banded on each side of the forehead; the back hair plaited, and
the plaits turned up and fastened by rows of black velvet ribbon, two
bands of which are passed across the forepart of the head.
* * * * *
Fig. 3. _Promenade, or Carriage Dress._--Robe of brown gros de naples.
The skirt is trimmed with ten rows of black velvet, of graduated width.
The corsage is low, square in front, and partly open; the opening being
confined by bands of black velvet. The corsage has a basque at the
waist, cut out in castellated ends which are edged with velvet. The
sleeves are slit open to the height of the shoulder, and the opening is
confined by bands of velvet, like those in front of the corsage. The
chemisette is of worked muslin, and trimmed with Valenciennes lace.
Undersleeves to correspond. Bonnet of white silk, ornamented with vine
leaves and blonde. Undertrimming, a wreath of flowers.
* * * * *
DIRECTIONS FOR A LETTER-BAND.
(See engraving on page 391.)
_Materials._--One yard and a half of sarsnet ribbon, two inches
in width, and of any color preferred; one bunch of steel beads,
No. 5; some sewing silk of the same color as the ribbon, and some
perforated cardboard one row narrower than the ribbon.
Mark the letters and border with the beads on the cardboard, which
should be about four inches long; also a piece about two inches square,
worked with beads in any ornamental pattern; fasten the longest
piece of cardboard to the ribbon in the centre, stitching it at both
edges, then sew the smaller piece about two inches nearer the end of
the ribbon; sew a piece of the same ribbon under this small piece
of cardboard at each end--this forms a loop for the ribbon to pass
through. This completes the band.
* * * * *
THE ALBUERA.
(See engraving on page 392.)
This mantilla is one of great beauty. It is made of blue glacé silk,
but can be in any choice color. Lavender and lustrous pearl and mode
colors look especially well, as also the greens, in this garment. Its
chief peculiarity consists in its square front and its fitting so as to
just cut the edge of the shoulder. It is fastened at the top by a bow;
the back falls with an easy fulness; it is embroidered.
* * * * *
DIRECTIONS FOR KNITTING A WORK-BASKET.
TAKE four needles, cast three stitches on each, knit plain
round once; put thread over needle; knit once so all round. Then plain
once round. Continue this process till there are five stitches between
the times of widening. Plain round once; widen, knit four narrow so
all round; plain round; widen, knit one, widen, knit three narrow so
all round, plain round, widen, knit three, widen, knit two, narrow so
all round, plain round, widen, knit five, widen, knit one, narrow so
all round, plain round, widen, knit seven, widen, knit one, narrow so
all round, plain round three times. Turn the basket inside out, knit
three times round plain, put thread over needle and seam two in one
all round, then twice plain. Continue this till you have six rows of
eyelets, then two plain, three seamed, four plain. Then make one row of
eyelets, knit three rows plain, hem down. Then your basket is done.
HOW TO FORM IT.--Prepare a solution of glue, dip your basket
into it when it is _very wet_, wring it out, have your form ready to
put it on, where it must lie for a day or two. Then you can paint it
any color you like. The block on which it is put to dry can be round or
not, as you prefer. If you wish a large one, cast on more stitches when
you begin. Four on a needle makes a large size.
* * * * *
EMBROIDERY WITH CORD.
[Illustration]
SPRING BONNETS.
[Illustration: No. 1.]
[Illustration: No. 2.]
[Illustration: No. 3.]
[Illustration: No. 4.]
IN accordance with the popular fashion of the day, we "open,"
in the present article, a group of the most tasteful bonnets of the
season. We give them not only that our lady readers may see what is
worn, but as models for their own fair fingers. Is it known to them
that bonnet-making is now quite a fashion among those skilful in
fancy-work, the most sensible branch we have seen adopted for many
years? Why should not the taste and ingenuity exercised in lamp-mats
of old, and crochet tidies of the present day, be as well displayed in
the light and graceful task of millinery? The neatness and patience
required in covering the card-board of an ingenious needle-book can be
more fully exercised in disposing the folds of silk and lace on the
well-shaped frame easily procured for a trifle.
The peculiar trait of the hats of the present season is the great
quantity of mixed materials, as crape, silk, lace, flowers, and ribbon,
on one very small structure. Great taste is to be exercised in mingling
these judiciously--ornamenting, not overloading; in the first place,
selecting a good model as to shape and style.
No. 1 we have chosen for its simplicity. It is composed of three rows
of pink crape or silk, drawn in a puffing, with a blonde edging rather
wide on each. The crown is entirely of lace, and there is a fall of the
same on the cape. A knot of pink satin bows, to the right, is all the
decoration of the exterior. A full cap of blonde, with one or two pink
bows, carelessly disposed, inside the brim.
No. 2 shows the extreme of the shallow brim, and two-thirds of the
wearer's head at the same time. It is, notwithstanding, a neat and
modest-looking dress bonnet of pomona green silk, the crown piece,
which is in full flutings, extending almost to the edge of the brim.
This is crossed by a band of the same with bound edges (old style). The
front is a very full double _ruche_ of blonde, between the two green
silk cordings. A full cap of the same fills the space between the face
and the brim, with a spray of flowers set very high to the right.
No. 3.--A more elaborate hat of straw-colored silk and white guipure
lace. It has a small plume on the left, and has a full spray of bridal
roses inside the brim.
No. 4 shows the disposition of lace and bow at the back of a crown, a
great point in the millinery of the present season; a stiff crown will
ruin a graceful brim.
* * * * *
PLAIN WORK.
WE often find our correspondents writing, "Are there any new
patterns for underclothes?" "Can you send me a good night-cap pattern?"
etc. etc. This has suggested to us the plan of publishing designs for
plain as well as ornamental needlework, and we commence the present
month by two selected from the large establishment of Madame Demorest,
late of Canal Street, now of 375 Broadway, New York. Besides the
infinite variety of outer garments, children's clothing, etc., to which
we have before alluded, Madame Demorest has patterns of everything for
a lady's under wardrobe, in sets or singly, so arranged as to look
exactly like the garment itself; and, as they can be sent by mail,
there is thus an end to the necessity of begging and borrowing in every
direction through a country neighborhood.
An article of practical instructions in the art of plain-sewing, for
it is, indeed, an art, will be given from time to time. It is a great
pity that this knowledge has, in most cases, to be acquired by the
married woman. We think it should be considered an essential part of
the education of the daughter. All the pages of instruction that may
be written or read upon the subject, can never give that aptitude and
ease in the performance of this very necessary household duty, which
would be acquired by seeing how others do it, and being taught while
young to take a part in the operation. A young mother who is not a
dressmaker or seamstress by profession, but who can quietly cut out
and make any article of dress that may be wanted, is looked upon by
her companions as a sort of marvellous prodigy. "Oh, how can you do
it?" "Well, I never had any genius that way!" are their exclamations.
And why have they no genius that way? In most cases, it is simply
because they have been taught at some "seminary for young ladies" to
despise such employments as mean and vulgar. Those who have genius
enough to knit fancy patterns, or work bunches of flowers upon canvas,
are quite capable of learning how to employ their needle for useful
household purposes. But express a wish to those who by profession
undertake the education of girls, that your children should learn to
employ the needle usefully, and you will most likely be told, "Oh, we
really have not time to attend to that; there is so much else that must
be learned, we cannot undertake plain needlework." And what does all
that is learned tend to? Frequently, to little more than a smattering
of this and that, by which the learner hopes to gain admiration, and
eventually a husband. Even the few years that are sometimes spent at
home, between school-days and marriage, are wasted in visiting and
frivolity and gaining a husband. How to fulfil those duties which such
an acquisition brings upon her, seems to be a problem which may be
answered by the assertion, "Sufficient to the day is the evil thereof."
In many respects, those children who are taught in public schools are
really better educated for domestic life than the children of the
classes a rank or two higher, who are brought up in boarding-schools or
day schools for young ladies. However, pages and volumes might usefully
be written on the inappropriate mode of bringing up the daughters of
families, who have nothing or little beside their own exertions to
look to for their maintenance; but this is not our present object.
Many there are who would willingly exchange the frivolities learned at
school for a knowledge how to make out and plan the clothes of their
families; and, for the benefit of such, we will endeavor, as far as
paper and print can do it, to teach them.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.
Fig. 2.]
The present models are--
Fig. 1.--A night-dress with plaited front and full sleeves, an
extremely neat and excellent pattern, designed and furnished by Madame
Demorest. The back may be either full in a yoke, or of a sacque form.
Fig. 2 is also one of Madame Demorest's designs, a chemise, plaited
front, and highly ornamented yoke, as is the present style. The
embroidery is with linen floss, and will wear as long as the garment,
a great matter in trimming. The shape combines neatness and ease, and
will be found extremely comfortable.
EDITORS' TABLE.
WE have before us several letters from writers of influence
and high consideration in different sections of our country, making
inquiries respecting the progress of Female Medical Education. We
cannot refuse these earnest appeals for information, and, as we trust
our myriad readers will feel an interest more or less in the subject,
we shall give the response to all who gather around our Table.
The third annual commencement of the Female Medical College of
Pennsylvania, located in Philadelphia, was held on the 25th of
February last, when the Degree of Doctor of Medicine was conferred
by the President, Charles D. Cleveland, on four ladies--Elizabeth H.
Bates, New York; Lucinda R. Brown, Texas; Minna Elliger, Germany;
and Elizabeth G. Shattuck, Pennsylvania--the latter belonging to the
Medical Missionary _protégées_ preparing to go out to China or India,
as opportunity may offer. The number of students in this college during
the past session was about thirty, and the applications for admittance
to the privileges of the institution for the next session, commencing
October 2, are already numerous and earnest.
There is only _one_ obstacle, viz., _the want of funds_. Those young
women and widows wishing to enter on this study are, usually, poor.
The expenses for board and books are all they can meet. If the college
were endowed, so that the tuition fees for all might be reduced to the
lowest sum[B] named for beneficiaries, while these last were admitted
_free_ of college charges, the school would be crowded. Are there
none among the rich of this city and State who will lend a helping
hand to this noble work of qualifying women to become physicians for
their own sex? _Fifty thousand_ dollars invested, so that the interest
could be annually applied for the benefit of the institution, would
be sufficient. There would thus be open a way by which those women
who have talents for the profession might enter on the study. What a
blessing this would be to them and to society! The sufferings which
delicacy imposes on the sex, while compelled to submit their complaints
to the knowledge of the male physician only, are shocking, and often
fatal--because concealment leads to death. Such a state of ignorance in
regard to all that pertains to the preservation of health and cure of
diseases should no longer be permitted to prevail among those who have
the direct and sole care of infancy, and are the nurses and watchers by
the sick. The good results of educating women for the profession are
thus truly set forth in the interesting "Valedictory Address," by Dr.
Elwood Harvey, one of the Faculty of the Female Medical College:--
* * * * *
WHAT FEMALE PHYSICIANS CAN DO.--"No intelligent person doubts
that, if we were _obedient_ to the laws of health, so far as they are
now understood, sickness and suffering would be greatly diminished.
The average of human life would be prolonged, and its usefulness and
happiness increased. In the earliest ages of which we have any recorded
history, rules for the preservation of health, and regulations for the
prevention of diseases, constitute a conspicuous part of the legal
code."
* * * * *
"In this country, where the people govern themselves, it is the
people that must be enlightened, that they may govern themselves
wisely. Though there is not a more law-abiding nation on the earth,
we are blessed in having but few laws to be obeyed. There is a larger
individual liberty here than elsewhere, and consequently a greater
individual responsibility. It is to the _people_, then, that you are
to convey a knowledge of the laws that govern their being. You have
ample scope for usefulness in this capacity. In your own sex, you will
find wives and mothers, ignorant of their own constitutions, bringing
wretchedness and misery upon themselves, discomfort and suffering upon
their families, and, worse than all, entailing enfeebled constitutions
and diseases upon their offspring. To enlighten these, to teach them
the duty they owe to themselves, to their families, to society, to
posterity, and to Him who created them, and instituted the laws they
violate, is your peculiar province. Do this, and the world will owe you
a debt it can never repay--but you will have your reward."
* * * * *