CHAPTER XXXVII

IN THE END

And after a foreigner has spent months or years in the midst of these

charming people, what has he discovered them to be? What does the future

hold for them? To what end did Commodore Perry precipitate upon them the

struggle and ferment of the nineteenth century? The present generation

ceasing to be what their forefathers were, what do they expect of their

descendants? Is our world thoroughly to occidentalize them, or will they

slowly orientalize us? Which civilization is to hold, and which is the

better? These are the unsolvable problems that continually confront the

thoughtful observer.

The Japanese are the enigma of this century; the most inscrutable, the

most paradoxical of races. They and their outward surroundings are

so picturesque, theatrical, and artistic that at moments they appear

a nation of _poseurs_—all their world a stage, and all their men and

women merely players; a trifling, superficial, fantastic people, bent on

nothing but pleasing effects. Again, the Occidental is as a babe before

the deep mysteries, the innate wisdom, the philosophies, the art, the

thought, the subtle refinements of this finest branch of the yellow race.

To generalize, to epitomize is impossible; for they are so opposite and

contradictory, so unlike all other Asiatic peoples, that analogy fails.

They are at once the most sensitive, artistic, and mercurial of human

beings, and the most impassible, conventional, and stolid; at once the

most logical, profound, and conscientious, and the most irrational,

superficial, and indifferent; at once the most stately, solemn, and

taciturn, and the most playful, whimsical, and loquacious. While history

declares them aggressive, cruel, and revengeful, experience proves them

yielding, merciful, and gentle. The same centuries in which was devised

the elaborate refinement of cha no yu saw tortures, persecutions, and

battle-field butcheries unparalleled. The same men who spent half their

lives in lofty meditation, in indicting poems, and fostering art, devoted

the other half to gross pleasures, to hacking their enemies in pieces,

and watching a hara kiri with delight. Dreaming, procrastinating, and

referring all things to that mythical _mionichi_ (to-morrow), they can

yet amaze one with a wizard-like rapidity of action and accomplishment.

The same spirit which built the Shinagawa forts during the three months

of Commodore Perry’s absence at times animates the most dilatory

tradesmen and coolies.

There is no end to the surprises of Japanese character, and the longer

the foreigner lives among them the less does he understand the people,

and the less do his facts contribute to any explanation. Their very

origin is mysterious, their Ainos the rock on which ethnologists founder.

Their physical types present so many widely differing peculiarities that

one cannot believe in any common source, or in the preservation of the

race from outside influences for so many centuries. Some coolie possesses

the finely-cut features, perfectly-modelled surfaces, and proudly-set

head of a Roman emperor. Some peer exhibits the features, the stolidity,

and the slow, guttural articulation of a Sioux Indian, and it is common

to see coolies identical in figure and countenance with the native races

of the north-west coast of America. One group of children might come

from an Alaskan village, and in another group frolic the counterparts of

Richter’s fisher boys of Italy. At times the soft, musical speech flows

like Italian; at other times it is rough and harsh, and rumbles with

consonants.

Their very simplicity, their childlike naivete, deceives one into

a conviction of their openness, while a mysterious, invisible,

unconquerable barrier rises forever between us and them. The divergence

of life and thought began in Western Asia too many ages since for the

races that followed the setting sun to find, at this late day, the clew

to the race that sought the source of the sun’s rising. China, which once

gave the Japanese their precepts and models and teachers, shows now more

differences than resemblances. Far as the pupils have departed from the

traditions of the instructor, there yet remains a celestial conservatism,

a worship of dry formality, and a respect for the conventional which

the new order overcomes but slowly. The missionaries in China, who

have to contend against the apathy or open hostility and the horrible

surroundings of the native population, greatly admire the Japanese, and

envy their colleagues who live in so beautiful a country, among so clean,

courteous, and friendly a people, so eager to learn and so quick to

acquire. It is true that foreign merchants and officials in China laud

the superior qualities of the Celestial, and infer a superficiality and

want of seriousness in the Japanese; but the alien who has dwelt in Japan

experiences a new homesickness when he exchanges a Japanese port for one

across the Yellow Sea, with “Nanking” instead of “Nippon” servitors about

him. The Japanese make an unconscious appeal to a sentiment deeper than

mere admiration, but the secret of the fascination they exercise defies

analysis.

Politically and socially, the Japanese copy the examples of the western

world; and the Restoration, with its consequences, furnishes the most

astonishing political problem of the century. The sudden abandonment of

the old order, the upspringing of a whole nation armed _cap-a-pie_ in

modern panoply of peace, has been too amazing to be at once accepted, at

least among Europeans, as a real and permanent condition of things. If

Europe cannot take the United States seriously after a whole century of

steadfastness, much less can it comprehend an alien nation like Japan in

a brief score of years.

A constitution and a parliament have been voluntarily given to a

people who had hardly chafed under autocratic forms, or even demanded

a representation. Its military and naval establishments, its police

organization, and its civil service are modelled upon the best of

many foreign models. Its educational system is complete, an admirable

union of the best of American, English, and German methods. Its postal

establishment, its light-houses, telegraphs, railways, hospitals equal

those of the West. And all this was accomplished, not by slow growth

and gradual development, the fruit of long need, but almost overnight,

voluntarily, and at a wave of the imperial magician’s wand.

This new birth, this sudden change from feudalism and the Middle Ages

to a constitutional Government and the nineteenth century of Europe and

America, is a unique spectacle. This spectacle—this unparalleled effort

of a people to lay aside what they were born to reverence and follow,

because alien customs seemed to promise a greater good to a greater

number—this spectacle, which should have challenged the admiration, the

sympathy, and the generous aid of western nations—has been met almost by

their opposition. A weaker people groping towards the light, learning

by the saddest experiences, has been hampered, bound, and forced from

its chosen way by the Christian nations, who have taken every shameful

advantage of superior strength and astuteness. Unjust treaties were

forced upon the Japanese at a time when they could not protest, and

when they could neither understand nor foresee the workings of them.

Backed by a display of naval strength, these treaties were pressed

upon the little nation, and by the bully’s one argument a revision of

these unjust agreements has been denied them for these thirty years;

although the Japan of to-day, its conditions and institutions are, in no

one particular, what they were at the time of the first negotiations.

Pathetic have been the struggles of citizens and statesmen, while the

most high-spirited of races has been forced to submit to political

outrages or face the consequences of war—the imposition of yet harder

terms by their oppressors. Limited in its revenues by these very

treaties, Japan can the less consider war with unscrupulous western

powers. The Government, in its efforts to secure foreign training for

its people, has been fleeced, imposed upon, and hoodwinked, through its

ignorance of foreign ways. Reluctantly admitting the perfidy of one

people, the Japanese have turned to another. In consequence, they are

berated for their fickleness and love of change, and taunted with the

fact that American, English, and German influences, successively, have

been uppermost at court, and their languages and customs successively

fashionable. The Germans, to our shame be it said, have dealt with them

more honorably than any other people, and the present triumph of German

interests has been well deserved.

The ambition, the courage, and persistency of this small nation, in

the face of such hindrances, is wonderful; and their struggles with

strange tongues, strange customs, and strange dress, all at once, were

heroic. Indifferent critics ascribe this peaceful revolution to a love

of novelty and an idle craze for foreign fashions. They claim that it is

but a phase, a fleeting fancy, a bit of masquerading, to be abandoned

when the people weary of it, or attain their ends. But fickleness is

not the characteristic of thousands of persons of one race, pursuing

the same objects for thirty years; nor could a nation of such taste and

intelligence adopt and adhere to strange customs for the mere sake of

novelty. Prophecies of retrogression discredit themselves, now that a

whole generation has grown up to whom the new is the established order.

Japanese youths, educated and trained abroad, have returned home to fill

the places of foreign instructors and managers. Each year fewer and fewer

foreigners are needed in Government departments and institutions. “Japan

for the Japanese” is a familiar cry. The desire for enlightenment and

the impulse towards progress were the result of forces already acting

from within, long before Commodore Perry’s black ships came to anchor in

Mississippi Bay, and still potent as then.

In this day the way to distinction and power is open to the humblest.

There is a baton in every knapsack, an imperial councillor’s star in

every school-room. The merchant has been ennobled, the samurai have sat

at the Emperor’s table, the eta walks free, the equal of other citizens,

and the humblest peasant has inviolable civil rights. Women have

come out of their guarded seclusion, and enjoy a social existence and

importance and a legal equality, and their educational opportunities are

ever enlarging. Marriage laws, divorce laws, and property laws secure

to them rights greater than some European women hold. The family life

and authority remain unchanged, and the privacy of the home is jealously

guarded, no foreigner penetrating to that sacred centre. The family

ceremonies and festivals are observed as punctiliously as ever. The

nobility and the official class lead the social life of Europeans, but

the conservatism of the middle or merchant class still clings to the old

order, which another century may find almost unchanged.

The art of Japan has already revolutionized the western world, leaving

its impress everywhere. The quick appropriation of Japanese ideas and

expressions marks an era in the Occident as distinct as that of the

Renaissance. For all her giving with full hands, we can return nothing

to this most art-loving of nations. Western examples and teachings,

and the ignorant demands of western trade, have wrought artistic havoc

in the Island Empire. Wherever foreign orders have been received, the

simplest work has so deteriorated, has been so vulgarized and cheapened,

that recognized efforts are now making to arrest this degradation of the

national art. Cultivated Japanese, appalled at this result of western

teachings, encourage artists and artisans in the study of national

masterpieces and the practice of the old methods, and the labors of

these public-spirited citizens are ably seconded by the Government. The

foreign professor of drawing, with his hard pencils and his plaster

casts, is a functionary of the past. To-day the youth of Japan holds to

his own writing-brush, and begins, as aforetime, with the one stroke,

two stroke, and three stroke sketches that lie at the root of the old

masters’ matchless art. Strangely enough, all perception of the beauty

and relation of color seems to leave the Japanese when they use foreign

materials. The people who have all their lives wrought and used and worn

the most harmonious combinations of color in their garments and household

goods, will execute monstrosities in Berlin wools in place of the rich

old fukusa, and combine the crudest and most hostile hues with unconcern.

The very use of foreign furnishings or utensils seems to abate the

national rage for cleanliness, and in any tea-house that aspires to be

conducted in foreign fashion, one discovers a dust, disorder, shabbiness,

and want of care that is wholly un-Japanese.

Nor in other ways has contact with foreigners wrought good to these

people. Conservative families have been mortified and humiliated by what

seems to them the roughness and vulgarity of the manners of their sons

and daughters who had been educated abroad. Many gentlemen even, in

Tokio, long refused their daughters a foreign education for this reason.

The mission-schools for girls found it necessary to engage masters of

cha no yu and of native deportment and etiquette, to instruct the pupils

in their charge. Among the lower classes the decay of courtesy, under

foreign influences, was rapid. The bold, impertinent, ill-mannered

coolies and nesans of the treaty ports are as unlike as possible to the

same people in interior or remoter towns.

If the people are to lose their art, the fine finish of their manners,

the simplicity of living, all the exquisite charm of their homes,

Commodore Perry should be rated as their worst enemy. If they refine and

make better what they now receive from the Occident, as they did with

what China gave them long ago, is it not possible that Japan will surpass

the world in the next century? Already the art workshop of the globe, has

it no greater mission, as travel brings all countries nearer together,

than to become the play-ground and holiday country of all nations,

occupying the same relation to both hemispheres that Switzerland does to

Europe?

Surely some better lot than that awaits this charming people, who so

quickly win the admiration, sympathy, and affection of the stranger that

is within their gates.

INDEX

Actors, 96, 97, 283.

Ainos, 370.

Akamatsu, Mr., 239.

Akasaka, 125.

Alaska, 358, 370.

Aleshine, Mrs., 2.

Aleutian Islands, 2.

Amado, 141, 144, 162, 323.

Amah, 24, 174.

Amenomori, Mr., 139.

Amida, 230, 238, 251.

Andons, 90, 141.

Anthem, the National, 116.

Arashiyama, 252, 253.

Arima, 345, 346, 349.

Arimatsu, 204, 205.

Arisugawa, Prince Takehito, 124.

Arita, 364.

Armor, 106, 210, 212, 237, 249, 275, 329, 344.

Arnold, Sir Edwin, 95.

Art, Club, Tokio, 50.

⸺ Commission, Imperial, 312.

⸺ Japanese, 50, 374, 327, 328.

Asahiko, the Empress Dowager, 123.

⸺ Prince Kuni, 128.

Asakusa, 47, 51, 52.

Ashikaga, 250, 251.

Atago Yama, 49.

Attu, Island of, 2.

Awata, 228, 235, 269, 270, 277, 279, 285, 286, 365.

Awatsu, 221.

Baku, 99.

Baltimore, 51.

Bamboo, 35, 136, 233, 346, 347.

Banko ware, 209.

Baths, 128, 169, 170, 173, 194, 195, 203, 349.

Battledore, 283.

Bazaars, 131, 273, 335.

Beauvais, 260.

Behring Strait, 2.

Belgium, 344.

Benkei, 217.

Benten, the Goddess, 41, 42, 272.

⸺ Dori, 13, 15.

Berry, Dr. J. C., 241.

Bird, Miss Isabella, 146.

Bishamon, 271.

Biwa, 22.

⸺ Lake, 179, 216-218, 235, 331.

Black tea, 351, 352.

Bleaching, 283.

Bluff, the, Yokohama, 7, 11.

Board of Trade, 331.

Bon Festival, 242, 361.

Boston, 51, 328, 329.

Botan, 77.

Bridge, the Sacred Red, 148, 160.

Brocades, 63, 257-259.

Bronze, 275, 276.

Buddha, 38, 78, 148, 157, 222, 230, 234, 235, 237, 238, 308, 311,

312, 327, 342, 344, 345, 359.

Buddhism, 21, 47, 135, 138, 230, 236, 237, 239, 241, 310, 311, 313,

321, 322, 326, 327, 338, 342, 366.

Bund, Hiogo, 341.

⸺ Kobé, 341.

⸺, Nagasaki, 366.

⸺ Yokohama, 3, 4, 8.

Cables, telegraphic, 23, 255, 357.

Camels, 165, 352.

Camphor, 52, 341.

Canada, 351.

Canadian Pacific Co., 2.

Canton, 261.

Cape King, 3.

Caravan, 352.

Carp, 78, 193, 286, 302, 303.

Castle, Kioto, 249.

⸺ Nagoya, 206-208.

⸺ Osaka, 331-334.

⸺ Shidzuoka, 197.

⸺ Tokio, 125.

Catacombs, 272.

Cats, 154, 284.

Cemeteries, 158, 243, 244, 343, 361.

Ceylon, 240, 311.

Cha no yu, 91, 113, 127, 132, 250, 296, 297, 299, 369, 375.

Chapel, the Imperial, 128.

Charcoal, 170, 337.

Chautauqua, 218.

Chemnitz, 334.

Cherry blossoms, 69-74, 252, 253.

Chicago, 331, 344.

Chickens, 52, 285.

Children, 4, 16, 54.

China, 1, 20, 31, 47, 120, 250, 272, 310, 327, 351, 352, 364, 367,

371, 375.

Chinatown, 20.

Chinese, 20, 65, 113, 120, 135, 238, 247, 248, 261, 272, 284, 295,

322.

Chioin temple, 234, 235.

Chirimen, 262-264.

Chit, 26.

Chit-book, 26.

Chiuzenji, 165-167.

Cholera, 254, 367, 368.

Chopsticks, 88, 128, 214.

Christianity, 240, 241, 363.

Chrysanthemum, 29, 65, 81, 85, 95, 260.

⸺ Order of the, 112.

Chrysanthemum, War of the, 250, 342.

Citadel, 333.

Climate, 22, 23, 362.

Clipper ships, 357.

Coal, 361, 367, 368.

Coins, 14, 328, 334.

Columbus, Christopher, 25.

Compradores, 21, 355.

Concession, foreign, 342.

Constitution, the new, 114, 371.

Consuls, 46.

Coolies, 8, 9, 205, 206, 253, 254, 325, 356, 375.

Court circle, 131, 132.

⸺ costume, 116, 119, 120, 316.

Crabs, 42.

Crapes, 13, 261, 267.

⸺ cotton, 13, 283.

Crèche, 357.

Cremation, 343.

Cross, Buddhist, 272.

Cryptomeria, 141, 309, 316.

Cupid, 307.

Dai Butsu, 38, 234, 311-313.

Daidokoro Mon, 245.

Daikoku, 137, 271, 273.

Dai Maru, 62.

Daimios, 44, 141, 212, 272, 315.

Daimonji, 242-244, 265, 361.

Daitokuji, 296.

Daiyagawa, 147, 148, 154, 174.

Dancing, 90, 132, 154, 215, 252, 315, 316, 319.

Dango-zaka, 81, 82.

Danjiro, 105, 109.

Daruma, 223.

Dasha, 211.

Declaration of Independence, 292.

⸺ of New Constitution, 114.

Deer, 307-310.

Deshima, 364.

Dialects, 294.

Divorce, 374.

Dohachi, 228.

Doshisha, 240, 241.

Dotemachi Gakko, 259.

Drama, the, 96, 100.

Dramatic literature, 99-101.

Dresser, Dr. C., 96, 292.

Dry-docks, 361, 367.

Dutch, the, 364, 366.

Dyeing, 204, 205, 260, 261, 283, 354.

Earthquakes, 61.

Ebisu, 264, 271.

Echigoya, 62.

Edinburgh, Duke of, 98.

Education, 57, 240, 241, 371, 373, 375.

Eels, 95.

El Capitan, 333.

Electric lights, 23, 104, 126, 282.

Embroideries, 267, 268.

Emperor, the. See Mutsu Hito.

Empress, the. See Haruko.

⸺ the Dowager. See Asahiko.

Enamel, cloisonné, 209, 278, 285-291.

Engei Kyokai, 97.

Enoshima, 38, 41, 42.

Eta, 96, 159, 373.

Etruscan, 272.

Execution-ground, 342.

Eyeball, Buddha’s, 327, 328.

Face-powder, 12.

Faience, 277.

Fans, 281, 366.

Farm-houses, 12.

Feast of Dolls, 54.

⸺ of Lanterns, 243.

Festival, boys’, 56.

Fine Arts Club, Tokio, 50.

Fire-flies, 188, 280, 320, 351.

Fires, 59.

Fish, 40, 42, 285, 366.

Flash-light, 327, 341, 362.

Fleas, 145.

Fleur-de-lis, 77.

Floods, 331, 332.

Florists, 11, 49, 81.

Flower festivals, 65-86.

Frescos, 327.

Fruits, 22.

Fuji-san, the Goddess, 176, 186.

Fujiyama, 1, 3, 12, 34, 35, 41, 49-51, 175-189, 191, 192, 195, 196,

202.

Fujiyeda, 199.

Fujiwara, 123.

Fukiage gardens, 129.

Fukurokojin, 271.

Fukusa, 270-272.

Funerals, 21, 139.

Fushimi, 237, 307.

Fusuma, 141.

Futa-ara, 158.

Futen, 158.

Futon, 145, 173, 182.

Gamman, 159.

Gardening, 11.

Garden-parties, Imperial, 115, 116.

Gate-keeper, 223.

Gatling-guns, 206.

Gautier, Judith, 334.

Geisha, 90, 213, 269, 284, 300, 303, 332, 337.

“Genji Monogatari,” 221.

Genoske, 101, 110.

Giantess, 284.

Gilbert and Sullivan, 269.

Ginkakuji, 249.

Ginza, 43, 53.

Gioksen, 280, 335.

Gion temple, 223-225, 301.

Gobelins, 260.

Go-Daigo, the Emperor, 342.

Gods, Seven Household, 271.

Gojo bridge, 228.

Gold Ball temple, 343.

Golden Koi, 95.

Gold-thread, 260.

Gompachi and Komurasaki, 134.

Gosekke, 130.

Gotemba, 176, 187.

Grammar, Japanese, 292.

Grant, General U. S., 50, 129, 363.

Greek, 272.

Green tea, 351, 352.

Griffis, Rev. W. E., 170, 292.

Guides, 146.

Guilds, 223, 264, 355.

Gunpowder tea, 351.

Gunsa, 211.

Gwariobai, 69.

Hachi-ishi, 140, 147.

Hachiman, 39, 41, 313.

Hachioji, 255.

Hair-pins, 16, 54.

Hakodate, 22.

Hakone, 35, 175, 176, 191.

Hama Rikiu, palace of, 129.

Hamamatsu, 201.

Hamana, lake of, 201.

Hana michi, 104.

Hangkow, 352.

Hara kiri, 106, 297.

Hari Shin, 345.

Haru, the Crown Prince, 124.

Haruko, the Empress, 112-114, 124, 299.

Hayashi, 273.

Hechima, 10.

Heloise and Abelard, 134.

Henri Deux, 278.

Hepburn, Rev. J. C., 294, 295.

Hibachi, 87, 265.

Hidetada, 49.

Hideyoshi, 91, 234, 237, 283, 292, 296, 297, 334.

Higashi Hongwanji, 236.

⸺ Otani, 227.

Hikone, 217.

Hina Matsuri, 54.

Hiogo. See Kobé.

Hira, Mount, 221.

Hirado, 294, 364, 365.

Hirakana, 99, 295.

Hiroshima, 359.

Hiyakudo, 313.

Hiyeizan, Mount, 217, 218, 222, 249, 345.

Hizen, 210, 364.

Hoishigaoka, 92.

Hokkaido, 12.

Hokorokojin, 192.

Hokusai, 51, 271.

Holidays, 53.

Homura, 21.

Honchodori, 13.

Honmaru, 125.

Honolulu, 2.

Horiuji, 326-328.

Hospitals, 114, 371.

Hotei, 271.

Hot springs, 169, 170, 173, 349.

House-boats, 57, 58, 332, 338.

Household Gods, 271.

Hyson, 351.

Ice, 22, 280.

Ichijo Takada, 113, 130.

Ichiriki, 222.

Idzumi ware, 335.

Ihai, 128.

Ikeda, 273.

Ikegami, 77, 135, 136.

Ikeshima, 360.

Imaichi, 143.

Imari, 210, 364, 365.

Incense, 274.

India, 272.

Ink, 321.

Inland Sea, 42, 330, 340-342, 358, 359.

Insects, 140, 145, 284, 324.

Iris, 77.

Irkutsk, 352.

Ise, 208, 352.

Isezakicho, 15.

Ishiyama, 218.

Ito, Count, 120, 130.

⸺ Countess, 121.

Iyekando, 235.

Iyemitsu, 39, 149, 153.

Iyeyasu, 39, 49, 149, 150, 157, 207, 292.

Iwakura, 130.

Jacquard, 257.

Japan Stream, 3.

“Japanese Homes,” by Prof. E. S. Morse, 292.

Jimmu Tenno, 111.

Jingo Kogo, 281.

Jinrikisha, 8, 9, 205, 338.

Jiutei, 332.

Jo-o, 299.

Josho, 255, 257.

Jugglers, 19, 137, 226.

Junks, 197, 341, 345, 353, 359, 361, 362.

Jurojin, 271.

Kabe habutai, 216, 262.

Kaburenjo, 300.

Kaga, 131, 210, 279.

Kagami, 276.

Kago, 162, 189.

Kagoshima, 29, 364.

Kairos, 336, 337.

Kaké, 22.

Kamakura, 38-40.

Kamé, 339.

Kameido, 47, 69, 77, 78.

Kamnosube-no-Kami, 230.

Kamogawa, 223, 283.

Kanagawa, 4, 7, 8, 15, 28.

Kanaya, 199, 200.

Kanda, 47.

Kanoko chirimen, 263.

Kanozan, 36.

Kanzan, 228.

Kappa, 141.

Karasaki, 218.

Kasuga, 309, 314-316, 319.

Kasukabe, 78.

Katakana, 295.

Katase, 41.

Katsura no Miya, 251.

Kawawa, 29, 30.

Keemung, 352.

Kegon-no-taki, 174.

Keiki, 131, 197.

Kekko, 147.

Kencho, 46, 296.

Kerosene, 182, 192, 282, 341, 350.

Kesa, 138, 269.

Keyaki, 200, 208, 236.

Kii, 340.

Kiku. See Chrysanthemum.

Kimigayo, 116.

Kinkakuji, 249, 250.

Kinkozan, 277, 278.

Kiomiidera, 196, 277.

Kiomidzu, 228.

Kioto, 8, 46, 61, 111-113, 125, 130, 189, 216, 221, 223-304, 312,

346, 365.

Kindan-nuitsuke, 267.

Kinu chirimen, 263.

Kites, 283.

Kiukioda, 273.

Kiushiu, 125, 333.

Kobayashi, 259.

Kobé, 46, 249, 281, 331, 340-349, 352, 365.

Kobo Daishi, 148, 159, 200.

Kobukuji, 322.

Kodzu, 175, 189.

Kofu, 255.

Komatsu, Prince, 129.

Komei, the Emperor, 299.

Komurasaki and Gompachi, 134.

Konoye, 130.

Korea, 1, 120, 159, 223, 234, 295, 310, 364.

Kori, 140.

Koro, 153, 277, 295.

Kotaiji, 227.

Koto, 22, 113, 332.

Koyokwan, 87, 99, 124.

Kudan, 47.

Kugé, 113, 130, 245, 249, 250.

Kujo, 130.

Kuki, R., 312.

Kuné no Miya, Prince, 290.

Kuni Asahiko, Prince, 128.

Kurodani, 235.

Kusunoki Masashige, 312, 342.

Kutani, 210.

Kwangioba no Shokoba, 257.

Kwannon, 52, 202, 203, 229, 230, 241, 268, 313, 344.

Lacquer, 48, 49, 150, 273, 274.

Landscape-gardening, 11, 39, 129, 133, 134, 250-252, 286, 345.

Language, the Japanese, 24, 292-296.

Lanterns, 57, 224, 243, 282.

Lava, 176, 181, 182.

Lead, 353.

Leather, 336.

Lecks, Mrs., 2.

Legations, 46, 148.

Light-houses, 3, 341, 371.

Limoges, 278.

London, 279.

Loquat, 22.

Lotus, 45, 78, 233, 342.

Lowell, Percival, 292.

Luck emblems, 179, 272.

Luck, gods of, 271.

Maeda, Marquis, 131.

Maiko, 90, 213, 284, 300-304, 332, 337.

Mandalla, 268.

Manji, 272.

Manjiuji, 273.

Marco Polo, 251.

Marriage, 113, 374.

Maruyama, 222, 223, 243, 253, 273, 286.

Masamuné, 275.

Masonry, 334.

Matsuda, 92, 296.

Matsuri, 21, 53, 165, 197, 211, 224, 229, 242, 342, 361.

Mecca, 326.

Meguro, 134, 135.

Meiji, the era of, 112.

Metal-work, 275, 276, 335.

Miajima, 359.

Miakodori, 300.

Midway Island, 2.

Midzu ame, 37, 200.

Miidera, 217.

Mikado, 112.

Mikasayama, 313, 323.

Military, the, 45, 133.

Mimizuka, 234.

Minamoto, 292.

Minatogawa, 341, 342.

Minë, 35, 36.

Mint, 14, 334.

Miochin, 275.

Mirror, magic, 276.

Mishima, 192-195.

Missals, 272.

Missionaries, 11, 25, 46, 218, 240, 241, 367.

Mississippi Bay, 12, 15, 31, 135, 373.

Mitford, A. B., 292.

Mito yashiki, 133.

Mitsu Bishi Company, 367.

Mitsuya, 192.

Mitsu tomoyé, 272, 273.

Miyanoshita, 175, 176, 187, 188, 191.

Miyashta, 147, 214.

Moats, 44, 197, 207, 333.

Momban, 223.

Momé, 257.

Monasteries, 227, 234, 250, 326, 340.

Montana, 346.

Monsoon, 23.

Monto sect, 236-240.

Moon temple, 343.

Mori, 130.

Morse, Prof. E. S., 135, 292.

Motomachi, 342.

Mound builders, 147.

Moxa, 35, 36, 257.

Mukojima, 70, 71, 74.

Mulberry, 134, 202.

Murata Shinkio, 250.

Muramasa, 275.

“Murray’s Guide-book,” 292.

Murusaki Shikibu, 221.

Musanokoji, 92.

Museums, 47, 312.

Mutsu Hito, the Emperor, 111, 112, 241, 299.

Nabeshima, 105, 153, 302, 364, 365.

Nagahama, 216.

Nagasaki, 1, 360-368.

Nagoya, 204, 206-216.

Nakadori, 64.

Nakamura, 283.

Nakasendo, 146.

Nakayama Yashiki, 124.

Nammikawa, 285-291.

Nanjenji, 235.

Nanko temple, 342.

Nantaisan, 48, 166-168, 174.

Napoleon, 334.

Nara, 268, 282, 304, 307-327, 338, 345.

Navajo, 186.

Negishi, 30.

Nesan, 32, 87, 88, 140, 141, 167, 188, 301, 325, 375.

Newspapers, 23, 110, 133.

New-years, 20, 32, 65, 66, 272, 282.

New York, 279, 281, 357.

Nichiren, 135, 138.

Nigwatsudo, 313.

Nihombashi, 43.

Nijo, 125, 130, 249.

Nikko, 38, 48, 140, 147, 191, 308.

_Nil_, steamer, 208.

Ningchow, 352.

Ningio, Nara, 314.

Nirvana, 131, 239, 311.

Nishi Hongwanji, 237-239, 338.

⸺ Otani, 233, 301.

Nishijin, 255, 257.

Nishimura, 268.

Niyakuoji, 235.

Nobori, 56.

No Dance, 96-98, 131, 269.

Northern Pacific Railroad, 358.

Numerals, 294.

Nunobiki, 343.

Nuns, 321, 322, 329, 367.

Nyubai, 23.

Obi, 63, 90, 119, 214, 283, 303.

Octroi, 223.

Odawara Bay, 35, 41, 175.

Odessa, 352.

Ogawa, 327.

Ogi, 281.

Oigawa, 252.

Oikoto, 214.

Oji, 134.

Okabe, 199.

Okuma, Count and Countess, 134.

_Omaha_, U.S.S., 360.

Omori, 135, 136.

_Oneida_, U.S.S., 139.

Oolong tea, 351.

Osaka, 14, 112, 237, 266, 275, 281, 303, 313, 326, 329-340.

Oshima, 36.

Oshukaido, 78.

O Suwo, 215, 363.

O Tomi Toge pass, 176, 187.

Otsu, 217, 218, 221.

Owari, 207-210, 302.

Oxen, 346.

Oyama, 35.

Ozen, 87.

Pacific Mail Steamship Company, 2, 358.

Pacific Ocean, 1.

Pack-horse, 165, 188, 191.

Pagoda, 49, 149, 227, 228, 322, 338, 339.

Palaces, 125-130, 244-253, 288, 312, 334.

Paper, 134, 277.

Pappenberg, island of, 363.

Paris, 268, 288.

Parliament, 371.

Passports, 46.

Patents, 352.

Paterson, N. J., 256.

Peerage, 130.

Peking, 266, 352.

Peony, 77.

Perfumes, 274.

Perry, Commodore Matthew Calbraith, 12, 23, 32, 37, 131, 363, 368,

369, 373, 375.

Persimmon, 22, 136.

Photograph, 196, 216, 285, 327.

Picul, 257.

Pike’s Peak, 181.

Pilgrims, 148, 166, 167, 176, 178, 182, 229, 230, 308, 310, 319, 338.

Plum blossoms, 31, 66, 67.

Poems, 33, 47, 69, 299.

Policeman, 211.

Pongee, 264.

Porcelain, 208, 209, 228, 364, 365.

Portuguese, 303, 363.

Pottery, 209, 277-279, 364, 365.

Press, the, 133.

Priestesses, 154, 308, 316, 319, 321.

Priests, 21, 49, 135, 138, 139, 154, 230, 237, 238, 310, 315, 319.

Princes, 130.

Pyramids, the, 272.

Race-course, 12, 35, 47, 50.

Raiden, 158, 212.

Raiha, 304.

Railroads, 140, 189, 202, 371.

Rains, 23, 62, 182, 188, 198, 199, 292, 331, 332.

Raku, 299.

Rape-seed, 203.

Rats, 272, 324, 325.

Red Plain, the, 168.

Rein, J. J., 292.

Resist, 265.

Restoration, the, 24, 50, 133, 150, 247, 331, 363, 366.

Rice, 12, 238, 251, 294, 325, 326, 330, 332.

Richardson affair, 28, 360.

Rikiu, 296, 297, 299.

Riobondo, 274.

Rip Van Winkle, 29.

Rising Sun, Order of the, 113.

River-bed, Kioto, 225, 244.

River fête, Tokio, 57.

Rokumeikwan, 86, 131.

Romaicising, 295.

“Ronins, Forty-seven,” 100, 102, 111, 222, 338.

Rose-jar, the, 209.

Rugs, 266, 336.

Sagami, 3.

Saigo, General, 135.

Saikio, 221, 245.

Saké, 74, 128, 303, 330.

Sakura, 69.

Samisen, 22, 73, 74, 89, 215, 223, 303, 332.

Sampan, 4.

Samurai, 24, 44, 251, 341, 342, 373.

Sandals, 9.

San Francisco, 2, 3, 358.

Sanjiro, 48-50.

Sanjiusangendo, 234.

Sanjo, Prince, 73, 130.

⸺ bridge, 225, 284.

Satsuma, 28, 131, 271, 277, 279, 335, 364, 365.

Scandinavia, 272.

Schleyer, 296.

Schools, 57, 199, 243, 375.

Screens, 141, 279, 280, 327, 329.

Sea-weed, 40, 136.

Segaki, 139.

Segiyama, 22.

Semi, 54.

Sengakuji, 135.

Senké, 92, 296-300.

Sermon on the Mount, the, 239.

Servants, 23, 24.

Seta Bridge, 221.

Seto, 208.

Shaku, 261.

Shakudo, 276.

Shampooer, 174.

Shiba, 47, 48, 78, 87.

Shibuichi, 276.

Shichi Fukujin, 271.

Shidzuoka, 131, 197, 198.

Shijo bridge, 224, 225, 283, 284.

Shimadzu, 130, 131.

Shimonoseki, 7, 359, 360.

Shinagawa, 135, 369.

Shinkaku, 251.

Shinkoji, 342.

Shinniodo, 235, 254.

Shinto, 119, 128, 150, 225, 241, 308-310, 313-316, 342.

⸺ miza, 102, 110.

Shippo, 272.

Shirane san, 168.

Shiro, 125.

Shishigatami, 235.

Shiurokindo, 204.

Shogun, the, 44, 45, 49, 96, 111, 112, 125, 129, 130, 131, 148-150,

158, 192, 196, 197, 207, 221, 228, 245, 247, 249, 250, 259,

297, 331, 338, 365.

Shoji, 141.

Shojo, 212, 213, 272.

Shotoku, Taisho, 327.

Shroff, 15.

Shugakuin, 249.

Siberia, 352, 361.

Silk, 255-271.

⸺ broker, 255.

⸺ markets, 255, 266.

⸺ raw, 256, 257, 350.

⸺ worms, 198, 256.

⸺ shops, 13, 63, 257, 258, 268, 335.

Singapore, 26.

Soami, 250.

Social life, 25, 26, 131-133.

Sodanje, 110.

Soroban, 14, 15.

Sosen, 51.

Soshi, 244.

“Soul of the Far East,” by Percival Lowell, 292.

Spaniels, 285.

Spectacle Bridge, 231.

Sponge-cake, 29, 303, 338.

Staffordshire, 208.

Stage, the, 104, 105.

Subashiri, 176, 187.

Sudare, 280.

Suehiro, 282.

Suez, 1, 357.

Sugita, 31, 32.

Sumidagawa, 57.

Susan, black-eyed, 28.

Suzume, 97, 201, 316.

Swords, 275, 314, 329.

Symbols, 271, 272.

Tabako bon, 87.

Tabi, 9, 301.

Tacoma, 358.

Tai, 301.

Taiko, the, 91, 251, 296, 297, 334.

Tairo, 292.

Taizan, 277.

Tajima, 345.

Takada, 273.

Takara Buné, 272.

⸺ mono, 272.

Takashima, 367.

Takatsukasa, 130.

“Tales of Old Japan,” by A. B. Mitford, 292.

Talisman, 272.

Tan, 261.

Tanzan, 277.

Tapestry, 259.

Taro of Urashima, 29.

Tateba, 31, 165.

Tateno, Governor, 19.

Tatsu, 24, 201.

Tattoo, 354.

Tayema, 268.

Tea, 63, 91, 94, 95, 190, 199, 200, 286, 287, 300, 307, 320, 340,

350-358.

Tea-houses, 96, 102, 140, 142, 144, 145, 167, 173, 177, 187, 192,

193, 204, 222, 323-325, 332, 346.

⸺ tasters, 353, 354.

⸺ tremens, 300.

Teak-wood, 335.

Teapot Hill, 228, 229.

Telegraphs, 23, 371.

Temple services, 21, 135, 138, 139, 154, 230, 237, 238, 315, 319,

327, 328, 339.

Tenabe Gengoro, 22.

Tennoji, 338-340.

Theatre, 15, 96-111, 224, 283-285, 337.

Theine, 351.

Theosophy, 241.

Thor, 272.

Throne, 126, 247.

Tokaido, 7, 12, 28, 175, 189-206, 277.

Tokio, 43-135, 237, 244, 268, 275, 291, 294, 300, 327, 334, 365.

Tokugawa, 56, 96, 111, 125, 131, 150, 197, 249.

Tombs, 49, 157, 244, 328, 343.

Tooth-brushes, 167, 203.

Torii, 34, 149.

Tosa chickens, 52, 285.

Totomi, 200.

Tourists, 28.

Toyohashi, 203.

Trade, foreign, 256, 340, 350, 357.

Treaties, 120, 372.

Trieste, 336.

Tungchow, 353.

Turtle, 271, 339.

Tussores, 264.

Typhoon, 7, 331, 340.

Uchiwa, 281.

Uji, 286, 296, 304.

Ukata, 204, 205.

Umagayeshi, 177-179, 187.

Ume Yashiki, 69.

Unitarian, 241.

University, the Imperial, 57, 131.

Uraga, 37.

“Usurper, the,” by Judith Gautier, 334.

Utsonomiya, 140, 141.

⸺ pass, 198.

Uyéno, 47, 50, 51, 70, 78.

Vancouver, 3.

Vanity Fair, 52, 284.

Vassar College, 132.

Velvet, 261.

“Venice of Japan,” the, 331.

Vienna, 208, 336.

Volapuk, 296.

Volcanic eruptions, 179.

Votive offerings, 137, 158, 166, 229, 329, 338.

Wages, 23, 146, 205, 206, 256, 355.

Wakamiya, 316.

Walters, Mr. W. T., 51.

Waraji, 9.

Waseda, 134.

William Tell, 197.

William the Conqueror, 292.

Wistaria, 77, 309.

Women’s dress, 16, 63, 90, 119, 123, 214, 283, 303.

Wrestlers, 337.

Xavier, St. Francis, 363.

Yaami, 221, 222, 227, 292.

Yabashi, 221.

Yabunouchi, 92.

Yamamai, 263, 264.

Yamanaka, 192.

Yamashiro, 340.

Yamato, 268, 313.

Yanagiwara, 64.

Yasaka pagoda, 227, 228.

Yashiki, 44, 97, 245.

Yeddo Bay, 3, 8, 35, 36.

Yellowstone, the, 346.

Yesso nishikis, 64, 259.

Yodogawa, 331.

Yokkaichi, 208, 209.

Yokohama, 2-4, 7, 36, 208, 281, 294, 340, 352, 353, 365.

Yokosuka, 3, 36.

Yoritomo, 39.

Yoshida, 235.

Yoshimasa, 250.

Yoshiwara plain, 195.

Yumoto, 162, 167-170, 173, 174.

Yuoki, 160.

Zipangu, 251.

Zukin, 16.

THE END

By A. H. SAVAGE LANDOR

IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND. An Account of a Journey into Tibet, Capture by the

Tibetan Lamas and Soldiers, Imprisonment, Torture, and Ultimate Release,

brought about by Dr. Wilson and the Political Peshkar Karak Sing-Pal.

With the Government Enquiry and Report and other Official Documents,

by J. LARKIN, Esq., Deputed by the Government of India. With One

Photogravure, Eight Colored Plates, Fifty Full-page and about One Hundred

and Fifty Text Illustrations, and a Map from Surveys by the Author. 2

Vols. 8vo, Cloth, Ornamental, Uncut Edges and Gilt Tops, $9 00.

A very remarkable work from whatever point of view it may be read, and

one which will insure its author a distinct and prominent place among

European travellers of the nineteenth century.—_N. Y. Mail and Express._

It is a book easy to read and hard to put down, for the scene is

constantly changing, the action is full of surprises, and the

descriptions of scenery enhance the significance of the occurrences

described.—_New York Tribune._

Tibet, the forbidden land, is not familiar ground, and an observer as

competent as Mr. Landor has much to tell quite apart from his thrilling

personal experiences. He writes well, and his photographs and drawings

give excellent views of some of the grandest scenery in the world and

some of the most picturesque things and people. He tells a plain manly

tale, without affectation or bravado, and it is a book that will be

read with interest and excitement, even in those parts of it which only

describe a journey through an unknown region.—_London Times._

HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS

NEW YORK AND LONDON

☞ _The above work will be sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of

the United States, Canada, or Mexico, on receipt of the price._

Jinrikisha days in Japan · 第 37 / 37 章