THE TOKAIDO—II
Great once was Shidzuoka, which now is only a busy commercial town of
an agricultural province. The old castle has been razed, its martial
quadrangle is a wheat field; and the massive walls, the creeping and
overhanging pine-trees and deep moats are the only feudal relics. Keiki,
the last of the Tokugawa Shoguns, lived in a black walled enclosure
beyond the outer moat, but the modern spirit paid no heed to his
existence, and his death, in 1883, was hardly an incident in the routine
of its commercial progress.
The great Shinto temple at the edge of the town is famous for the dragons
in its ceiling. The old priest welcomed us with smiles, led us in,
shoeless, over the mats, and bade us look up, first at the Dragon of the
Four Quarters, and then at the Dragon of the Eight Quarters, the eyes of
the monster strangely meeting ours, as we changed our various points of
view.
At the archery range behind the temple our danna san proved himself a
new William Tell with the bow and arrows. The attendant idlers cheered
his shots, and a wrinkled old woman brought us dragon candies on a
dark-red lacquer tray, under whose transparent surface lay darker shadows
of cherry blossoms. The eye of the connoisseur was quick to descry the
tray, and when the woman said it had been bought in the town, we took
jinrikishas and hurried to the address she gave. The guide explained
minutely, the shopkeeper brought out a hundred other kinds and colors
of lacquer, and children ran in from home workshops with hardly dried
specimens to show us. All the afternoon we searched through lacquer and
curio shops, and finally despatched a coolie to the temple to buy the
old woman’s property. Hours afterwards he returned with a brand-new,
bright red horror, and the message that “the mistress could not send the
honorable foreigner such a poor old tray as that.”
The fine Shidzuoka baskets, which are so famed elsewhere, were not to be
found in Shidzuoka; our tea-house was uninteresting, and so we set forth
in the rain, unfurling big flat umbrellas of oil-paper, and whirling away
through a dripping landscape. Rice and wheat alternated with dark-green
tea-bushes, and cart-loads of tea-chests were bearing the first season’s
crop to market. The rain did not obscure the lovely landscape, as the
plain we followed turned to a valley, the valley narrowed to a ravine,
and we began climbing upward, while a mountain-torrent raced down beside
us. One picturesque little village in a shady hollow gave us glimpses of
silk-worm trays in the houses as we went whirling through it. The road,
winding by zigzags up Utsonomiya pass, suddenly entered a tunnel six
hundred feet in length, where the jinrikisha wheels rumbled noisily. On
cloudy days the place is lighted by lamps, but on sunny days by the sun’s
reflection from two black lacquer boards at the entrances. The device is
an old one in Japan, but an American patent has recently been issued for
the same thing, as a cheap means of lighting ships’ holds while handling
cargo.
On the other side of Utsonomiya pass the road winds down by steep zigzags
to the village of Okabe, noted for its trays and boxes made of the
polished brown stem of a coarse fern. We bought our specimens from an
oracular woman, who delivered her remarks like the lines of a part, her
husband meekly echoing what she said in the same dramatic tones, and the
whole scene being as stagey as if it had been well rehearsed beforehand.
From the mountains the road drops to a rich tea country, where every
hill-side is green with the thick-set little bushes. At harvest-time
cart-loads of basket-fired, or country-dried, tea fill the road to the
ports, to be toasted finally in iron pans, and coated with indigo and
gypsum to satisfy the taste of American tea-drinkers. In every town
farmers may be seen dickering with the merchants over the tough paper
sacks of tea that they bring in, and within the houses groups sitting at
low tables sort the leaves into grades with swift fingers.
At Fujiyeda, where we took refuge from the increasing rain, the splashing
in the large bath-room of the tea-house was kept up from afternoon
to midnight by the guests, and continued by the family and tea-house
maids until four o’clock, when the early risers began their ablutions.
A consumptive priest on the other side of our thin paper walls had a
garrulous shampooer about midnight and a refection later, and we were
glad to resume the ride between tea fields at the earliest possible hour.
At Kanaya, at the foot of Kanaya mountain, the tea-house adjoined a
school-house. The school-room had desks and benches but no walls, the
screens being all removed. The teacher called the pupils in by clapping
two sticks together, as in a French theatre. Spying the foreigners, the
children stared, oblivious of teacher and blackboard, and the teacher,
after one good look at the itinerants, bowed a courteous good-morning,
and let the offenders go unpunished.
Up over Kanaya pass we toiled slowly, reaching at last a little eyrie
of a tea-house, where the landlord pointed with equal pride to the view
and to several pairs of muddy shoes belonging, he said, to the honorable
gentlemen who were about piercing the mountain under us with a railway
tunnel. Under a shady arbor is a huge, round bowlder, fenced in carefully
and regarded reverently by humble travellers. According to the legend it
used to cry at night like a child until Kobo Daishi, the inventor of the
Japanese syllabary, wrote an inscription on it and quieted it forever.
No less famous than Kobo Daishi’s rock is the midzu ame of this Kanaya
tea-house, and the dark brown sweet is put in dainty little boxes that
are the souvenirs each pilgrim carries away with him.
Farther along the main road, with its arching shade-trees, the glossy
dark tea-bushes gave way to square miles of rice and wheat fields. Here
and there a patch of intense green verdure showed the young blades of
rice almost ready to be transplanted to the fields, whence the wheat had
just been garnered, the rice giving way in turn to some other cereal, all
farming land in this fertile region bearing three annual crops.
A few villages showed the projecting roofs peculiar to the province
of Totomi, and then the pretty tea-house at Hamamatsu quite enchanted
us after our experiences with the poor accommodations of some of the
provincial towns. A rough curbed well in the court-yard, with a queer
parasol of a roof high over the sweep, a pretty garden all cool, green
shade, a stair-way, steep and high, and at the top a long, dim corridor,
with a floor of shining, dark _keyaki_ wood. This was the place that
made us welcome; even stocking-footed we half feared to tread on those
brilliantly-polished boards. Our balcony overlooked a third charming
garden, and each little room had a distinctive beauty of wooden ceilings,
recesses, screens, and fanciful windows.
The most enviable possession of Hamamatsu, however, was O’Tatsu, and on
our arrival O’Tatsu helped to carry our traps up-stairs, falling into
raptures over our rings, pins, hair-pins, watches, and beaded trimmings.
She clapped her hands in ecstasy, her bright eyes sparkled, and her smile
displayed the most dazzling teeth. When we ate supper, sitting on the
floor around an eight-inch high table, with little O’Tatsu presiding
and waiting on us, not only her beauty but her charming frankness,
simplicity, quickness, and grace made further conquest of us all.
The maiden enjoyed our admiration immensely, arrayed herself in her
freshest blue-and-white cotton kimono, and submitted her head to the
best hair-dresser in town, returning with gorgeous bits of crape and
gold cord tied in with the butterfly loops of her blue-black tresses. At
her suggestion we sent for a small dancing-girl to entertain us, who,
with a wand and masks, represented Suzume and other famous characters
in legend and melodramas. When we left Hamamatsu, affectionate little
O’Tatsu begged me to send her my photograph, and lest I should not have
understood her excited flow of Japanese sentences, illuminated, however,
by her great pleading eyes, she ran off, and, coming back, slipped up to
me and held out a cheap, colored picture of some foreign beauty in the
costume of 1865. When at last we rode away from the tea-house, O’Tatsu
followed my jinrikisha for a long way, holding my hand, with tears in her
lovely eyes, and her last sayonara broke in a sob.
A hard shell-road winds down to the shores of Hamana Lake and across its
long viaduct. The jinrikishas run, as if on rubber tires, for nearly
three miles over an embankment crossing the middle of the great lake,
which at one side admits the curling breakers of the great Pacific. Until
a few years ago this mountain-walled pool was protected from the ocean
by a broad sand ridge, which an earthquake shook down, letting in the
salt-waters. The Tokaido railroad crosses the lake on a high embankment,
which was sodded and covered with a lattice-work of straw bundles, while
seed was sown in the crevices more than a year before the road could be
used. The whole railroad, as we saw in passing its completed sections, is
solidly built with stone foundations and stone ballast, and intended to
last for centuries. The Japanese seldom hurry the making of public works,
and even a railroad does not inspire them with any feverish activity. Not
until the last detail and station-house was finished was the line opened
for travel, and following so nearly the route of the old Tokaido, through
the most fertile and picturesque part of Central Japan, it keeps always
in sight Fujiyama or the ocean.
In the course of the afternoon plantations of mulberry-trees came in
sight. Loads of mulberry branches and twigs were being hauled into the
villages and sold by weight, the rearers of silk-worms buying the leaves
and paper-makers the stems for the sake of the inside bark. Climbing
to one high plateau, we rested at a little rustic shed of a tea-house,
commanding a superb view down a great ragged ravine to the line of foam
breaking at its bowlder strewn entrance, and so on to the limitless
ocean. One of the jinrikisha coolies preceded us to the benches on the
overhanging balcony, and, kindly pointing out the special beauties of
the scene, took off his garments and spread them out on the rail in the
matter-of-fact, unconscious way of true Japanese innocence and simplicity
of mind.
The guide-book calls the stretch of country beyond that high-perched
tea-house “a waste region,” but nothing could be more beautiful than
the long ride through pine forest and belts of scrub-pine on that
uncultivated plateau, always overlooking the ocean. At one point a temple
to the goddess Kwannon is niched among towering rocks at the base of a
narrow cliff, on whose summit a colossal statue of the deity stands high
against the sky. For more than a century this bronze goddess of Mercy has
been the object of pious pilgrimages, the pilgrims clapping their hands
and bowing in prayer to all the thirty-three Kwannons cut in the face of
the solid rock-base on which our lady of pity stands.
We reached the long, dull town of Toyohashi at dusk, to find the large
tea-house crowded with travellers. Two rooms looking out upon a sultry
high-walled garden were given us, and for dining-room a tiny alcove of a
place on one of the middle courts. This room was so small and close that
we had to leave the screens open, though the corridor led to the large
bath-room, where half a dozen people splashed and chattered noisily and
gentlemen with their clothes on their arms went back and forth before
our door as if before the life class of an art school. The noise of the
bathers was kept up gayly, until long after midnight, and no one in the
tea-house seemed to be sleeping. By four o’clock in the morning such
a coughing, blowing, and sputtering began in the court beside my room
that I finally slid the screens and looked out. At least a dozen lodgers
were brushing their teeth in the picturesque little quadrangle of rocks,
bamboos, and palms, and bathing face and hands in the large stone and
bronze urns that we had supposed to be ornamental only. Later, the gravel
was covered with scores of the wooden sticks of tooth-brushes, beaten out
into a tassel of fibres at one end, and with many boxes emptied of the
coarse, gritty tooth-powder which the Japanese use so freely.
The last day of our long jinrikisha ride was warm, the sun glared on
a white, dusty road, and the country was flat and uninteresting. Each
little town and village seemed duller than the other. Wheat and rape were
being harvested and spread to dry, and in the farm-yards men and women
were hatchelling, beating out the grain with flails, and winnowing it in
the primitive way by pouring it down from a flat scoop-basket held high
overhead. Nobody wore any clothes to speak of, and the whole population
turned out to watch the amazing spectacle of foreigners standing
spell-bound until our jinrikishas had gone by.
At Arimatsu village we passed through a street of shops where the
curiously dyed cotton goods peculiar to the place are sold. For several
hundred years all Arimatsu has been tying knots down the lengths
of cotton, twisting it in skeins, and wrapping it regularly with a
double-dyed indigo thread, and then, by immersion in boiling water,
dyeing the fabric in curious lines and star-spotted patterns. A more
clumsy and primitive way of dyeing could not be imagined in this day of
steam-looms and roller-printing, but Arimatsu keeps it up and prospers.
At sunset we saw the towers of Nagoya castle in the distance, and after
crossing the broad plain of ripening rape and wheat, the coolies sped
through the town at a fearful pace and deposited us, dazed, dusted, and
weary, at the door of the Shiurokindo, to enjoy the beautiful rooms just
kindly vacated by Prince Bernard, of Saxe-Weimar.
The Shiurokindo is one of the handsomest and largest of the tea-houses a
foreigner finds, its interior a labyrinth of rooms and suites of rooms,
each with a balcony and private outlook on some pretty court. The walls,
the screens, recesses, ceilings, and balcony rails afford studies and
models of the best Japanese interior decorations. The samisen’s wail and
a clapping chorus announced that a great dinner was going on, and in the
broader corridors there was a passing and repassing of people arrayed in
hotel kimonos.
As the wise traveller carries little baggage, the tea-houses furnish
their customers with ukatas, or plain cotton kimonos, to put on after
the bath and wear at night. These gowns are marked with the crest or
name of the house, painted in some ingenious or artistic design; and
guests may wander round the town, even, clad in these garments, that
so ingeniously advertise the Maple-leaf, the Chrysanthemum, or Dragon
tea-house. All guides, and servants particularly, enjoy wearing these
hotel robes, and travellers who dislike to splash their own clothing
march to the bath ungarmented, assuming the house gowns in the corridor
after their dip. These ukatas at the Shiurokindo were the most startling
fabrics of Arimatsu, and we looked in them as if we had been throwing
ink-bottles at each other.
Until the long jinrikisha ride was over we had not felt weary, as each
day beguiled us with some new interest and excitement; but when we
stepped from those baby-carriages at the door of the Shiurokindo we were
dazed with fatigue, although the coolies who ran all the way did not
appear to be tired in the least. Their headman, who marshalled the team
of ten, was a powerful young fellow, a very Hercules for muscle, and for
speed and endurance hardly to be matched by that ancient deity. At the
end of each day he seemed fresher and stronger than at the start, and he
has often run sixty and sixty-five miles a day, for three and four days
together. He led the procession and set the pace, shouting back warning
of ruts, stones, or bad places in the road, and giving the signals for
slowing, stopping, and changing the order of the teams. On level ground
the coolies trotted tandem—one in the shafts, and one running ahead with
a line from the shafts held over his shoulder. Going downhill, the leader
fell back and helped to hold the shafts; going uphill, he pushed the
jinrikisha from the back.
The jinrikisha coolies make better wages than farm laborers or most
mechanics. Our men were paid by the distance, and for days of detention
each man received twenty-five cents to cover the expense of his board
and lodging. They earned at an average one dollar and ten cents for
each day, but out of this paid the rent of the jinrikisha and the
Government tax. Where two men and a jinrikisha cover one hundred and
eighty miles in four days they receive thirteen dollars in all, which is
more than a farm laborer receives in a year. As a rule, these coolies
are great gamblers and spendthrifts, with a fondness for saké. Our
headman was a model coolie, saving his money, avoiding the saké-bottle,
and regarding his splendid muscle as invested capital. When he walked
in to collect his bill, he was clean and shining in a rustling silk
kimono, such as a well-to-do merchant might wear. In this well-dressed,
distinguished-looking person, who slid the screens of our sitting-room
and bowed to us so gracefully, we hardly recognized our trotter of the
blue-cotton coat, bare knees, and mushroom hat. He explained that the
other men could not come to thank us for our gratuities because they had
not proper clothes. In making his final and lowest bows his substantial
American watch fell out of his silk belt with a thump; but he replaced it
in its chamois case with the assurance that nothing hurt it, and that it
was with the noon gun of Nagoya castle whenever he came to town.