ON THE ROAD TO WASHINGTON--AND AFTER
"Fourscore and seven years ago our fathers brought forth upon this
continent a new nation, conceived in liberty, and dedicated to the
proposition that all men are created equal.
"Now we are engaged in a great ... war, testing whether that
nation, or any nation so conceived and so dedicated, can long
endure. We are met on a great battle-field of that war.... It is
for us, the living, ... to be dedicated here to the unfinished
work which they who fought here have thus far so nobly advanced.
It is ... for us to be here dedicated to the great task remaining
before us; that from these honoured dead we take increased
devotion to that cause for which they gave the last full measure
of devotion; that we here highly resolve that these dead shall
not have died in vain; that this nation, under God, shall have a
new birth of freedom; and that government of the people, by the
people, and for the people, shall not perish from the earth."
ABRAHAM LINCOLN: _Address at the Dedication of the National
Cemetery at Gettysburg_.
I
Some extracts from a diary of the next two months will give the
history of the mission's movements and may recall, to those who had
occasion to travel during the unrestricted submarine campaign, the
sometimes romantic mystery and the always exasperating uncertainty
of those days.
* * * * *
_Wednesday, April 11th, 1917._
_Non-stop to Crewe and again to Carlisle, where we changed engines
in a hidden backwater of the station. Dormer_ [Mr. Balfour's
assistant private secretary] _explained programme: viz. dine on
train, reach unnamed port at 11.0 p.m., embark, land to-morrow at
second unnamed port, train till mid-day to third unnamed port and
embark in real earnest. Query: Stranraer, Larne, Loch Swilly and
the "Olympic?" ... Rival rumour speaks of a cruiser or two. At
Carlisle we stretch our legs...._
_Left Carlisle 15 minutes before scheduled time, thus missing
Admiralty telegram. This, however, caught us at Dumfries, where,
dining agreeably and looking out over measureless wastes of snow,
we were told that we must wait four-and-twenty hours, as the
weather was impossible. Mission, which is so far taking everything
in best spirit, clutched its despatch boxes and F.O. bags,
indicated heavier luggage to obliging soldier-servants and tramped
through snow to Dumfries Station Hotel...._
_Until mid-day no orders were received.... Dormer then announced
that we board train for dinner at 7.15 and start at 8.45. The
mission is so much wrapped in mystery, and the S. of State so well
known that he has been confined to his own room all morning...._
_On reaching station at 7.15 we were presented with further
Admiralty telegrams suspending our departure ... then told that we
were to proceed to Greenock. It was low water when we arrived at
11.0 p.m. and ... illumined by the precarious flash of an electric
torch, we descended a perpendicular gangway, much as a vampire
descends the rain-water pipe on the outside of a house.... Greenock
Station rumour says that our mission of twenty, with ten servants
and sixty to eighty pieces of baggage, is carrying bullion....
Some little time on a perishingly cold tender, before boarding
"Olympic." This ... has been for some little time a troopship;
it is in fact heavily loaded with ... Canadian ... wives who are
being repatriated; it contains three hundred to four hundred ...
babies, all with ... a yell on their lips; finally, it has been
waiting for the mission some six days, being ready to sail last
Friday.... Consequently, when the Secretary of State mounted the
gangway, followed by a score of men carrying a despatch-box in
either hand ... the cheers rang out over the grey waters of the
Clyde. "I cannot help feeling that they were ironical," murmured A.
J. B., as we sat down to sardines on toast, cold ham and whiskey at
midnight.... Unconscious of their doom, the little victims cheered,
not guessing that the Admiralty's reason for stopping us yesterday
was the discovery of a brand-new minefield outside Loch Swilly.
I am told that we shall not start till Saturday, as a further
mission, principally from the W.O. and M. of M. is due to start on
that day; perhaps we shall wait for it. When, therefore, we arrive
or start back, no man can say. Drummond_ [Mr. Balfour's principal
private secretary] _thinks it probable that we shall spend a week
in Canada before returning._
* * * * *
_Friday, April 13th._
_An inauspicious day for starting, say the superstitious; but,
though the Blue Peter tremble in the breeze, I see no likelihood
of our moving.... Rumour, which is as busy on board the "Olympic"
as elsewhere, has discovered that the midnight mission was not a
mission at all, but a clandestine escape and that the £800 suite
'midships contains not the Secretary of State, but the ex-Czar of
all the Russias.... No hopes of a start till to-morrow...._
_Saturday, April 14th._
_Worked industriously ... until noon, when ears were caught by
welcome sound of anchor being raised. Guns, four forward and
two aft, were swung into position; three destroyers, like angry
dragon-flies, appeared from nowhere and flew ahead; orders issued
for every man, woman and child to put, and keep, on life-belt.
Bidden by Drummond to lunch with Secretary of State in his
cabin...._
* * * * *
_Sunday, April 15th._
_Twenty hours out from Greenock. Our escort has left us, we no
longer steer a zigzag course; and high speed, coupled with a bit
of a roll, a bit of a pitch and considerable cold has thinned the
ranks of the passengers.... The Atlantic, considering its size, is
amazingly deserted._
* * * * *
_Monday, April 16th._
_Fairly smooth, settled down to work in earnest.... Dormer told
me that, the night we were due to sail, every British west-coast
port was carefully mined. Hence our stay at Dumfries. The ship's
company has been very busy making a wood-and-canvas imitation of
a submarine periscope; this is to be flung overboard to-morrow,
and punctually at 11.0 our guns will try to sink it. Hope they
succeed; otherwise, a lifelike periscope cruising at large over
wide Atlantic will distress a number of innocent packets._
* * * * *
_Tuesday, April 17th._
_Delightfully warm; steaming well south. This an agreeable surprise
after being told that we were due to run into a cold patch over
the Banks.... Gun practise took place, as advertised; £7 per shell.
As the wood-and-canvas mock-periscope sank shortly after being
launched, there was no very satisfactory target, but the gunners
had still the wide Atlantic at which to shoot and on several
occasions I observed them hit it. Noise disconcerting, but nothing
to consequent uproar, when 400 children all began to cry at once.
However, if they had not been crying at the guns, they would have
cried at something else.... Vernon Castle, who in happier times
waltzes in and out the supper-tables of New York and London in
company with his wife, happens to be on board, as an airman._
* * * * *
_Wednesday, April 18th._
_Weather getting warmer each day. Sighted first ship of any kind
since leaving territorial waters.... The F.O. News Department is
apparently collecting a series of autobiographical sketches of the
mission. Infinite possibilities in this.... Dined with Secretary of
State. A concert on behalf of Sailors' Families Fund...._
* * * * *
_Thursday, April 19th._
_Passing over Banks: bitterly cold; going slow to make Halifax
early to-morrow morning.... The wireless communiqués seem to grow
more satisfactory each day. Confidential memorandum circulated to
mission, hinting what should and what should not be communicated
with members of pertinacious U.S.A. press._[38]
* * * * *
_Friday, April 20th._
_We came in sight of land this morning between 7.0 and 8.0.
Yesterday evening was beautifully calm and clear, and, shortly
before sundown, we met four transports and a cruiser escort
steaming parallel to us to the south. By midnight we ran into a
dense fog and spent the night almost motionless with the fog-horn
blowing at three-minute intervals. An escort came out to meet
us, but turned tail on failing to find us. Halifax harbour is
imposing[39]--an immense stretch of water with hills on either
side and an October-morning haze gradually disappearing before the
sun. The mission will shortly disintegrate, as the M. of M. and
the Wheat Commission are going to New York. On dropping anchor,
we were boarded by an embassage from the Governor-General of
Canada, consisting of Admiral Browning, his naval staff, the G.
G.'s military secretary and others. We are bidden to lunch on the
"Leviathan." Telegrams are flying between Halifax and Washington to
discover when the U.S.A. Government would like us to arrive...._
_Went on board "Leviathan" ... and was entertained most hospitably
by ward-room officers; taken ashore in launch and spent hour
inspecting Halifax. Returned to tea on board "Leviathan"; then
ashore again and entered private car. Expect to reach Washington in
forty-eight hours. Papers full of mission and arrangements for its
reception...._
* * * * *
_Saturday, April 21st._
_An airless and seismic night ... until we lay in St. John siding
for an hour or two.... Due to cross frontier at 9.0 a.m...._
_Meeting at frontier between mission, press, secret police and
representatives of State Department and Embassy, Secretary of State
and Long, Assistant Secretary of State Department.... Mission must
not arrive before 3.0 p.m. Accordingly drew up in siding for three
hours...._
* * * * *
_Sunday, April 22nd._
_Crossed the Hell Gate Bridge, an amazing piece of railway
construction, only opened three weeks ago, into New York, where we
put down the Ministry of Munitions and the Chairman of the Wheat
Commission, who will join us at Washington to-morrow night. Part of
the Mission will be bedded out in a house provided ad hoc, the rest
will go to the Shoreham Hotel.... Two days in the hottest train on
record rather trying...._
_Arrived safely at Washington.... We had a pilot engine running
from the frontier before us, another following, the line guarded
and the route not disclosed. Despite this, the U.S. head of the
Eastern Command states that sleepers were laid across the line last
night with intent to wreck the train._
_The mission was received by Secretary Lansing and most of the
British Embassy Staff, a U.S. naval band, a crowd and several
cars, which were then escorted by troops of cavalry.... Called
at Embassy.... Summer weather prevailing; and spring leaves and
flowers everywhere._
II
The Balfour mission remained in Washington from Sunday, April
22nd, until Thursday, May 24th, when it set out on its return
journey through Canada. During that time Mr. Balfour and some of
his colleagues paid short visits to other places, and almost the
entire mission went up to New York for the week-end which had been
set aside for its reception. Apart from this, as soon as they had
established contact with their respective departments, most members
were kept too busy to leave Washington: for seven days a week,
all day and part of the night, they divided their time between
the Embassy, the various departments, the headquarters of the
mission in Mr. Secretary Breckenridge Long's house and the mission
offices--opposite the Embassy--on Connecticut Avenue.
No one who has ever been to the United States needs to be told
that the mission was shewn the most lavish hospitality: city and
country clubs extended honorary membership to it; public and
private parties and receptions were given in its honour; and the
State Department seconded Mr. Winslow and Mr. Hugh Gibson to the
special duty of looking after it. While it would be of doubtful
interest and undoubted impropriety to describe the negotiations
and discussions which took place, it may be said in general terms
that the mission was charged with the duty of collaborating in all
war measures which the United States government took, furnishing
information and coordinating the work of the corresponding
departments. A few further extracts from the diary already cited
will indicate everything, not closed with a confidential seal, that
happened to one member of the mission during his four or five
weeks' sojourn in Washington.
_Monday, April 23rd._
_ ... Conference at Embassy at 10.20 to apportion work of
mission.... Made exhaustive inspection of city: Washington
Memorial, Capitol, Congress, Congressional Library, River Potomac,
baseball grounds, Federal Museum and the like. Returning to
luncheon at hotel met my friend Sir Hardman Lever, Financial
Secretary of Treasury, who has been regulating Anglo-American
finance in corner of J. P. Morgan's office for four months and has
now come up from New York to join mission. Invited to lunch with
him, Lady Lever and private secretary...._
_Reception at White House; presented to President Wilson. Similar
receptions in England would be made more tolerable if we adopted
American practise of encouraging guests to smoke._
_Tuesday, April 24th._
_Paid visit to Trade Department of Embassy to ascertain how
Washington conducts its end of our work.... Dined with Assistant
Secretary of State Polk and attended reception by Secretary of
State Lansing to meet A. J. B. Immense mob present; introduced to
whole of Congress and most of judiciary...._
_Wednesday, April 25th._
_Walked to Embassy and engaged Assistant Commercial Adviser
in talk on blockade questions until interrupted by order that
Embassy staff and mission should assume gala costume and cheer
French mission on its way. Sped back, rejoicing at opportunity
of wearing silk hat and morning coat so carefully carried 3,000
miles; thence, with Chairman of Wheat Commission and Financial
Secretary to Treasury, motored to rendezvous, disembarked and
stood ... cheering as Joffre and Viviani drove by.... How many
more missions are coming, God alone knows...._
_Reception at Embassy._
_Thursday, April 26th._
_Most of the mission and part of the Embassy staff met at a 2½
hour conference at missions house, to arrange programme of work.
Secretary of State in chair supported by Ambassador and senior
Canadian representative. My work, already known to me, officially
defined: now have only to wait for State Department to come and
negotiate...._
_ ... Wrote memorandum on export trade prohibitions.... Bidden
to lunch with Secretary of Navy on Sunday aboard "Mayflower" and
proceed to Mount Vernon...._
_Saturday, April 28th._
_The worst feature of being the accredited representative of the
War Trade Intelligence Department is that you are expected to be
omniscient on war and trade and intelligent in the intervals.
Received deputation ... on national registration, substitution
and compulsory service.... Attended conference at Embassy....
Party at Alibi Club, a miniature Savage Club with many trophies
and no rules. Speeches in American, English, German (pour rire)
and Anglo-French. Half British and half French military missions
there._
* * * * *
_Sunday, April 29th._
_To Embassy.... Then, in tall hat, to Navy Yard and embarked on
President's yacht, "Mayflower," to be received by Secretary of
Navy Josephus Daniels, in company with entire British and French
missions and fair slice of administration and Congress.... On
coming level with Mount Vernon, the band played "The Star-Spangled
Banner," officers and men saluted, and the rest stood to attention.
Put off in launches, landed and climbed hill to Washington's tomb
where for first time in history Union Jack was flying (in company
with the Stars-and-Stripes and Tricoleur). Eloquent speech by
Viviani, who ended by placing wreath on tomb; followed by Secretary
of State, shorter and even more eloquent, who in turn laid wreath
on tomb in name of British Mission;[40] Marshal Joffre and General
Bridges mounting guard the while beside the tomb. Proceeded
uphill to Washington's house, which stands on a magnificent site
overlooking Potomac with beautiful scenery all round. House itself,
white-walled, red-roofed, colonnaded and decorated in best Adam
style, is preserved by pious body of female Regents in almost
exactly same condition as when Washington was alive: there is the
same vista which he cut through trees so that he could see guests
coming miles away over richest English lawn at lodge gates. The
house and out-houses, running in crescent away from river, are
as he designed and left them, including smoke-house for curing,
spinning-house and a dozen more. The gardens are as he laid them
out, with box hedges, now grown to breast height, enclosing just
such flowers as he knew in his day; and there are trees planted by
Lafayette, when staying with him. To me two most interesting relics
inside house were large wooden trunk marked "Geo. Washington:
Virginia" and, at other end of life, key of Bastille, sent him by
Lafayette shortly after 14th July, '89. Altogether an object-lesson
in preservation of public monuments._
* * * * *
_Sunday, May 6th._
_Sunday is, of course, a day of rest. I worked half the morning
at the Shoreham, the other half at the Embassy; lunched at the
Metropolitan and returned to Embassy till 6.0 p.m. At 6.0 repaired
to La Fayette Hotel, thence to a business dinner given by Eustace
Percy at the Shoreham. We sat down at 6.30, of all ungodly hours,
talked shop throughout the meal and sped away to the Department of
Commerce. There until 1.30 a.m. we did the real work of the Trade
Section of the Mission: Eustace Percy, Peterson, Broderick (our
Assistant Commercial Adviser) and myself...._
_Returned to Shoreham at 1.45 a.m._
* * * * *
_Monday, May 7th._
_ ... Introduced to ... Winston Churchill, the American
novelist...._
_Saturday, May 12th._
_After hot and restless night reached New York at 7.0 a.m. Motored
down town, called on publishers and drove to Equitable Buildings,
where on 39th floor, reached by express non-stop elevator, the
Bankers' Club is palatially installed. A considerable view of New
York is obtainable from a thirty-ninth floor.... Drove slowly up
Broadway_ (_the height of the buildings and the slowness of traffic
are the two most noticeable things to a newcomer_)....
_Dined at super-palatial Metropolitan (on Fifth Avenue) with
American committee of British Red Cross. ... Adjourned to Carnegie
Hall, where grand patriotic show had been arranged. Mission
comfortably housed in half a dozen first-tier boxes; house
decorated throughout with flags of the Allies; war-pictures,
patriotic songs and national anthems ad lib.; suddenly everyone
leapt to his feet and cheered, looking in our direction. Reason
was that Secretary of State had just entered his box with Choate,
formerly U.S. Ambassador in London.[41] At end of performance
entire house rose once more and cheered itself hoarse, shouting
"Balfour! Balfour!" until Secretary of State consented to deliver
short speech...._
* * * * *
_Monday, May 14th._
_Reached Washington in time for breakfast. Then to the Department
of Commerce, then to the Capitol. Heard Senate debating the
Espionage Bill, of which one or two provisions will affect the
war trade policy and powers of the U.S.G.... Crossed to House of
Representatives and heard debate on Revenue Bill._
* * * * *
_Thursday, May 17th._
_Divided morning between Embassy and Hotel. At noon drove to
Mission House for interesting ceremony. The Senate and Alpha of
Virginia Chapter of the Phi Beta Kappa Fraternity were convoked to
elect into its membership Arthur James Balfour, Cecil Spring-Rice
and members of the British Commission. The Phi Beta Kappa was
founded at William and Mary College, as a quasi-masonic students'
fraternity, in 1776; and, though its secret ritual has now been
made public and its oath is now largely formal, it has continued
ever since and has spread all over the States. One or two of
the most distinguished members of a college are, I understand,
admitted to it every year, but honorary membership is the rarest of
compliments, reserved hitherto for a handful of men such as Lord
Bryce. To quote the President and the Secretary of State, it was
the highest academic distinction that America could confer or we
receive._
_Assembling in an ante-room, the ten of us who happened to be
graduates of Oxford or Cambridge marched in and were greeted by the
President of the Federation on behalf of the Senate and Deputies
of the Alpha of Virginia. Our names were called by one Senator,
and the President made an admirable speech. The President of the
College of William and Mary initiated us into the history and
mystery of the Fraternity, and the Rector of the college presented
each of us with a leather case, stamped with our name, containing
the gold key of membership, also stamped with our name, the date,
the device of the fraternity and the date of its formation. The
oath was then read, and the grip was explained and given. A speech
in reply by the Secretary of State on behalf of the mission ended
the proceedings, and the Senate was adjourned. We thereupon
divested ourselves of our robes and drove to the apartment of
Senator Hollis Godfrey, where we were entertained to luncheon.
Altogether a charming and most interesting ceremony._
_After luncheon I was introduced to Sir Ernest Shackleton, the
antarctic explorer, who is staying in Washington. An early
dinner, after which I attended the Colonial Memorial Hall to hear
Shackleton deliver a most interesting lecture, illustrated by
admirable photographs, on his last "relative failure," as he calls
it, in antarctic exploration._
* * * * *
_Sunday, May 20th._
_Rose and appeared at Department of Commerce to be greeted by
muscular janitor with six-shooter.... Spent morning arranging what
I hope will be almost last details of department as it is to be set
up here, ranging in my stride from the cubic feet of office space
to be occupied down to the number of dollars to be paid weekly to
the char-ladies.... Motored out to Arlington, Robert E. Lee's old
home, now the military cemetery of America and the most beautiful
that I have ever seen. It stretches over 6,000 acres of valley,
with magnificent timber and winding drives and an open circular
temple, from which addresses are delivered on Thanksgiving Day.
The arrangement and style of the graves are in excellently simple
taste. For the unknown dead of the Civil War there are plain square
stones, a foot high; when the identity of any number is discovered,
the stone is rounded at the corners and the name engraved._
_On leaving Arlington, we motored past the great wireless station
with the Potomac and Washington lying below, back to the city._
* * * * *
_Thursday, May 24th._
_To President's private entrance at station. Dansey and Butler
who are staying behind, saw us off on behalf of mission, Tom
Spring-Rice on behalf of Embassy; U.S. Ministers present in
force.... The Ambassador accompanies us to Ottawa...._
* * * * *
_Friday, May 25th._
_Ran through Buffalo shortly after breakfast and left train at
Niagara. Our American escort, Mr. Secretary Long, Hugh Gibson of
the State Department and others provided us with trams and drove
us down to the Rapids, then back to the Falls, from the American
side. In size, beauty and volume of water they came fully up to my
expectations: it is a strange sensation to stand, as it were, on
the edge of the world and see a gigantic lake pouring over within
a foot of where you stand. The spray rises in a snow-white cloud
as high again as the length of the falls, and it is impossible to
penetrate it to the other side. Our American escort then turned
us out of the cars, which the leading citizens of Niagara had
thoughtfully provided, and restored us to our tram, in which we
proceeded half-way across the bridge. There we took an affecting
farewell, and, as the Americans left by one door, the Canadian
escort, composed chiefly of lieutenant-governors and custodians
of the Niagara property, entered by the other. We were then shewn
the Canadian side of the Horse Shoe fall, conducted over the power
station which supplies Toronto and driven out to the Canadian side
of the Rapids and the Whirlpool. There is an aerial car running on
cables over the Whirlpool (at a sickening height, say the timid)
and almost all of us, myself included, were induced to risk our
lives on the principle that where the Secretary of State leads the
rest of the mission follows...._
_At Toronto, I was told off to help lieutenant-governor's
secretary; so sorted procession into carriages, jumped into private
car and drove ahead of the band's sound and fury to Parliament
Buildings, where I got in touch with a cable office, thanked Sir R.
Borden in suitable terms for his telegram of welcome and strolled
out to front, where, as on scaffold, Secretary of State was being
subjected to native eloquence of mayors, lieutenant-governors et
illud genus omne. His speech in reply aroused great enthusiasm,
and, after interval for cinematograph men to ply their task, party
moved away from scaffold.... Hurried away to bombard Government
House and porter's office for several pieces of missing baggage;
... and drove in haste to Government House for dinner...._
* * * * *
The mission went from Toronto to Ottawa, thence to Montreal and
Halifax.
* * * * *
_Saturday, May 26th._
_Nine hot, dusty hours wherein I was almost too tired to smoke or
look out of window; general coma.... Peterson met me at Montreal
Station at 6.35 p.m., and we drove to his house. Sir William[42] is
at present in nursing-home, so we have place to ourselves. Heaven
be thanked for the peace and quiet of it! No elevators, no bands at
meals, no Middle-West-Congressman's wife being "paged" throughout
the living rooms, no telephone calls, no expectant pressmen,
nothing but simple English food, a silent house, deft female
servants, a comfortable room, a warm bed, a spring-mattress and, in
general, the conditions necessary to the mental peace of one whose
nerves are rather quickly breaking up under the strain of the last
six weeks._
_After a tête-à-tête dinner, Peterson and I walked round to the
Mount Royal Club.... The rest of the mission is timed to leave
Toronto this evening for Ottawa, where we are due to join it in
three days' time; as, since the Parliament Buildings were burnt
down, there is nothing much to see or do in Ottawa, and, as the
mission is expected in Montreal on its way home, unless the
anti-conscription riots become unduly intense, it would be highly
satisfactory if we could arrange to join forces here instead of
toiling back to Ottawa and from Ottawa to Montreal._
* * * * *
_Monday, May 28th._
_Awaiting telegraphic reply from Dormer to our request for leave
to stay in Montreal until the mission picks us up here on its
homeward journey. Tried to arrange meeting with Stephen Leacock,
who lectures to the students of M'Gill in the intervals of
writing his immortal books; unhappily he is away from Montreal at
present.... Caught Dormer by a long-distance call to Government
House, Ottawa.... I may remain at Montreal until Wednesday, when
mission comes to present Secretary of State, General Bridges and
Admiral de Chair for honorary degrees and to pick me up en route
for the boat...._
* * * * *
_Wednesday, May 30th._
... To Grand Trunk Station and waited for arrival _of mission
train in company of Montreal's more distinguished citizens and a
naval and military escort which whiled away time by practising
"Maple Leaf." Great reception when party arrived and was driven
to Windsor Hotel, where Canadian Club of Montreal, to number of
800, including guests and pressmen, presently sat down to crowded
luncheon. Speeches by President, Secretary of State, Ambassador
and Lord Shaughnessy, all delivered amid terrific cheers.... Then
to Royal Victoria College.... Introductory speech by Principal,
followed by presentation of Admiral de Chair, General Bridges, Sir
C. Spring-Rice and Secretary of State for M'Gill degrees.... So to
Grand Trunk Station. The mission, though impoverished by loss of
Eustace Percy, Phillips, Paton, Rees and Peterson, is now enriched
by presence of Judge Amos, J. H. Thomas and others._
_Dined on train, drew up opposite Quebec, and left for better view
of Heights of Abraham by moonlight...._
* * * * *
_Thursday, May 31st._
_Rose to find that we were steaming into Matepedia, on border of
Quebec and New Brunswick. As we are a valuable mission, not lightly
to be sunk by first Hun submarine, as General Pershing of the U.S.
Expeditionary Force may meet us at Halifax and cross with us on
the "Olympic,"[43] and as part of his staff is already with us, we
are seeking to elude the omnipresent Boche by lying in siding in
peculiarly deserted portion of Dominion from 9.0 a.m. till 1.30
a.m. to-morrow. Unfortunately for General Bridges, Governor of Bank
of England and other noted anglers, the salmon have not yet come up
the river; the rest of us, however, availed ourselves of fishing
club-house and sat in verandah reading and smoking for portion of
morning. In afternoon walked for several miles. No better place
could have been chosen for our 16 hours' delay. Two rivers join
here and flow down at rapid pace, bearing ceaseless burden of rough
lumber, cut and marked miles nearer source and floated down to
depot where it is collected. Tree-clad mountains all round, which
will be in leaf in a few weeks' time, and on top of the mountains
wide-stretching prairie land, now almost free of snow and gradually
being put under the plough._
* * * * *
_Friday, June 1st._
_Secured a little sleep in morning hours as train, discovering
dozen derailed cars 12 miles ahead, elected to retire into siding
while the breakdown gang got to work. As line cannot be cleared for
many hours and as we have to leave Halifax about sunset, we shall
be 24 hours' late in starting and can look forward to another
night in the train._
* * * * *
_Saturday, June 2nd._
_Left train about 10.0 a.m. and proceeded by tender to "Olympic,"
where commander, surgeon and purser greeted us as old friends....
Taken off by picket boat to lunch on Admiral Browning's flagship
"Leviathan" once more and met same charming ward-room mess as had
entertained me six weeks before. Rejoined ship after tea. We carry
no repatriated Canadian wives this trip, Heaven be thanked; but
troops to the number of 6,000 are round, above, below and in the
middle of us...._
III
_Sunday, June 3rd._
_After a long night in a comfortable stateroom, I felt better than
I have done for weeks. As a troopship we are restricted in liberty
and comfort to some extent. Shrill bugles have exasperating knack
of blowing a reveillé at 5.0 a.m. and repeating same at half-hour
intervals; troops assemble on deck for physical drill, and between
parades there is never any room to walk anywhere. As a set-off, we
have a tolerable military band, now, alas, temporarily hushed to
make room for fog-horn as we steam slowly through the mists of the
Newfoundland Banks._
* * * * *
_Monday, June 4th._
_The day promised to be so lacking in incident that a solicitous
management arranged an impromptu submarine scare. As we sat over
our afternoon coffee and cigars, a bugle sounded a call unknown to
me, but evidently familiar to every officer in the smoking-room,
who took up his position in the "Birkenhead" manner on deck with
his men. Within a few seconds bugles were calling all over the
ship, one call after another, and every door and companion-way was
filled with troops racing to their places. With a view to avoiding
crowded promenade deck I sauntered on to boat deck, which by happy
coincidence chanced to be the station accorded to the mission. As
soon as the tumult and the shouting had died, we returned to our
former places and avocations, and I was gratified to see that in
the disorder I had got rid of a very uncomfortable life-belt in
favour of one both more comfortable and more becoming._
_Tuesday, June 5th._
_The climate has grown trying, as we run in and out of the Gulf
Stream, alternating tolerable cold with moist heat. I devoted my
morning to work and dined with the Secretary of State._
_Wednesday, June 6th._
_A tranquil day was only disturbed by the necessity of preparing a
report on my activities in Washington, to be added by Drummond to
that volume of reports in which each member of the mission strives
to ascribe to himself the credit for the mission's general success.
In the afternoon there came the customary submarine alarm...._
_Thursday, June 7th._
_Last night we entered the danger-zone, and our precautions were
redoubled. The military police march up and down, treading with
heavy foot on any who carry life-belts instead of wearing them;
armed sentries also stand by every life-boat to the end that, when
the deadly torpedo has done its work and our ship's complement
of 7,000 is tossing about in life-boats and on rafts, there
shall be attached to each party at least one man with a rifle,
making life unpleasant to the submarine crew, if any question
of machine-gunning the survivors arise.... As a compliment to
the United States Navy, the convoy was made up of two American
destroyers, subsequently increased to four. In the evening, by
urgent request, the Secretary of State addressed the officers of
the various Canadian regiments in the saloon. There followed a
concert, principally contributed by Madame Edvina, whom we have
the honour of carrying this trip.... Having discovered a native
aptitude for the game of chess, I left the concert to take care of
itself and competed with Judge Amos.[44]_
* * * * *
_Friday, June 8th._
_Escorted by a varying number of U.S. destroyers, we slipped by
eight submarines, and by the end of dinner were in sight of the
Irish and Welsh coasts. After the officer commanding the Canadian
troops had proposed the King's health, J. H. Thomas proposed the
health of President Wilson and the U.S. Navy. A presentation
is being made to the Secretary of State by the members of his
mission...._
* * * * *
_Saturday, June 9th._
_We dropped anchor in the Mersey at about 2.30 a.m. Immediately and
for the short remainder of the night some 6,000 troops mobilised
for disembarkation. Called at 6.0, but did not enter special
train until 11.15. Read that J. H. Thomas has been made a Privy
Councillor, which left pleasant taste in the mouth at end of long,
varied, interesting and very pleasant mission._