WORK IN SOUTHERN COUNTIES

"How can a man learn to know himself? By reflection never, only by

action. In the measure in which thou seekest to do thy duty shalt

thou know what is in thee. But what is one's duty? The demand of

the hour."--GOETHE.

"Il est donné, de nos jours, à un bien petit nombre, même parmi les

plus délicats et ceux qui les apprécient le mieux, de recueillir,

d'ordonner sa vie selon ses admirations et selon ses goûts, avec

suite, avec noblesse."--SAINTE-BEUVE.

"Every man has a separate calling, an end peculiar to

himself."--FREDERICK SCHLEGEL.

"The old lord-treasurer Burleigh, if any one came to the Lords of

the Council for a licence to travel, he would first examine him of

England: if he found him ignorant, he would bid him stay at home

and know his own country first."--HENRY PEACHAM, 1622, _The

Compleat Gentleman_.

Upon returning to England in the winter of 1858, I felt more bitterly

that ever the want of sympathy which had formerly oppressed me. Though I

had the most idolatrous love for my dearest mother, and the most

over-anxious wish to please her, there was then none of the perfect

friendship between us, the easy interchange of every thought, which

there was in later years; for she was still so entirely governed by her

sisters-in-law as scarcely to have any individuality of her own. Often,

often, did she pain me bitterly by suspecting my motives and questioning

my actions, even when I was most desirous of doing right; and from the

long habit of being _told_ that I was idle and ignorant, that I cared

for nothing useful, and that I frittered away my life, she had grown to

believe it, and constantly assumed that it was so. Thus all my studies

were embittered to me. I was quite sure that nothing I did would be

appreciated, so that it never seemed worth while to do anything, and I

became utterly deficient in that cheerfulness of disposition which is

the most important element in all private success.

As I write this, and remember the number of delightful intimates by whom

my after years have been surrounded, I find it difficult to realise that

I had at this time _no_ friends who, by mutual confidence, could help or

cheer me. The best of them, Milligan, was now settled in London, being

in full work in the Ecclesiastical Commission Office, and though always

very kind to me, he had now fallen into a new set of acquaintances and

surroundings, and had no time to bestow upon me individually. George

Sheffield I seldom saw; and I had no other friends worth speaking of.

At this time all the intellectual impetus I received, and without which

I should have fallen into a state of stagnation, came from the house of

my aunt, Mrs. Stanley. Her grace, ease, and tact in society were

unrivalled. At her house, and there alone, I met people of original

ideas and liberal conversation. In this conversation, however, I was at

that time far too shy to join, and I was so dreadfully afraid of my

aunt, who, with the kindest intentions, had a very cold unsympathetic

manner in private, that--while I always appreciated her--I was unable to

reap much benefit from her society. Perhaps my chief friend was my

cousin Arthur Stanley, whom I was not the least afraid of, and whom I

believe to have been really fond of me at this time; also, though he had

a very poor opinion of my present powers and abilities, he did not seem,

like other people, utterly to despair of my future.

[Illustration: Catherine Stanley]

By my mother's desire, Archdeacon Moore (an old friend of the Hare

family) had written to Sir Antonio Panizzi,[146] then the

autocratic ruler of the British Museum Library, with a view to my

standing for a clerkship there. But this idea was afterwards abandoned,

and it was owing to the kindness of my cousin Arthur and that of Albert

Way (our connection by his marriage with Emmeline Stanley) that I

obtained from John Murray, the publisher, the employment of my next two

years--the "Handbook of Berks, Bucks, and Oxfordshire."

The commission to undertake this Handbook was one which I hailed with

rapture. The work was in every respect welcome to me. I had an inner

consciousness that I could do it well, and that while I was doing it I

should be acquiring information and advancing my own neglected

education. Besides, the people with whom the work would necessarily

bring me in contact were just those who were most congenial. My

principal residence would be Oxford, associated with some of my

happiest days, and where it was now a real pleasure to be near Arthur

Stanley; while, if my mother were ill or needed me in any way, there was

nothing in my work which would prevent my returning to her, and

continuing it at home. Above all, the fact of my having the work to do

would silence the ceaseless insinuations to my mother as to my desire

for an idle life of self-indulgence. I knew nothing then of the

mercantile value of my labour. I did not know (and I had no one to

inform me) that I was giving away the earnest work of two years for a

pitiful sum,[147] which was not a tenth of its value, and which was

utterly insufficient to meet its expenses.

How well I remember my first sight of John Murray, when he came to dine

at the Stanleys' house in Grosvenor Crescent--his hard, dry questions,

his sharp, concise note afterwards, in which he announced the terms of

our hardly-driven bargain, received by me as if it had been the greatest

of favours. Perhaps, however, the very character of the man I had to

deal with, and the rules he enjoined as to my work, were a corrective I

was much the better for at this time. The style of my writing was to be

as hard, dry, and incisive as my taskmaster. It was to be a mere

catalogue of facts and dates, mingled with measurements of buildings,

and irritating details as to the "E. E.," "Dec.," or "Perp."

architecture even of the most insignificant churches, this being the

peculiar hobby of the publisher. No sentiment, no expression of opinion

were ever to be allowed; all description was to be reduced to its barest

bones, dusty, dead, and colourless. In fact, I was to produce a book

which I knew to be utterly unreadable, though correct and useful for

reference. Many a paper struggle did I have with John Murray the

third--for there has been a dynasty of John Murrays in Albemarle

Street--as to the retention of paragraphs I had written. I remember how

this was especially the case as to my description of Redesdale, which

was one of the best things I have ever done. Murray, however, was never

averse to a contribution from one whose name was _already_ distinguished

either by rank or literature, and when Arthur Stanley contributed

passages with his signature to my account of Oxford, they were gladly

accepted, though antagonistic to all his rules.

[Illustration: CANON STANLEY'S HOUSE, OXFORD.]

Arthur Stanley had been made Professor of Ecclesiastical History at

Oxford before we had gone abroad, and, while we were absent, a Canonry

at Christ Church, attached to the professorship, had fallen in to him.

The Canon's house was just inside the Peckwater Gate leading into Tom

Quad, and had a stiff narrow walled garden behind, planted with

apple-trees, in the centre of which Arthur made a fountain. It had been

a trouble to the Canon that it was almost impossible in his position to

make the acquaintance he wished with the young men around him, and in

this I was able to be a help to him, and in some way to return the

kindness which often gave me a second home in his house for many months

together. His helpless untidiness, and utter inability to look after

himself, were also troubles which I could at least ameliorate. I rapidly

made acquaintances in Christ Church, several of which developed into

friendships, and I was only too glad to accede to Arthur's wish that I

should invite them to his house, where they became his acquaintances

also. Of Christ Church men at this time I became most familiar with

Brownlow,[148] Le Strange,[149] Edward Stanhope,[150] Stopford,[151]

Addie Hay,[152] and my second cousin, Victor Williamson.[153] A little

later, at the house of Mrs. Cradock, I was introduced to "Charlie

Wood."[154] I did not think that I should like him at first; but we

became intimate over an excursion to Watlington and Sherborne Castle,

and he has ever since been the best and dearest of my friends. Very soon

in constant companionship, we drew together in the Bodleian and Christ

Church libraries, we read together at home, and many were the delightful

excursions we made in home scenes, forerunners of after excursions in

more striking scenes abroad. We also often shared in the little feasts

in Mrs. Cradock's[155] garden, where we used to amuse ourselves and

others by composing and reciting verses.

I frequently left Christ Church for a week or two upon exploring raids

into the counties on which I was employed, and used to bring back

materials to work up in Oxford, with the help of the Bodleian and other

libraries. Very early, in this time of excursions, I received an

invitation (often repeated) from Jane, Viscountess Barrington, a first

cousin of my real mother, to visit her at Beckett near Shrivenham. I had

seen so little then of any members of my real family, that I went to

Beckett with more shyness and misgivings than I have ever taken to any

other place; but I soon became deeply attached to my dear cousin Lady

Barrington, who began from the first to show an interest in me, which

was more that of a tenderly affectionate aunt than of any more distant

relation. Lord Barrington, the very type of a courteous English

nobleman, was also most kind. Of their daughters, two were

unmarried--Augusta, who was exceedingly handsome, brimful of very

accurate information, and rather alarming on first acquaintance; and

Adelaide, who was of a much brighter, gentler nature. I thought at this

time, however, that Lina, Lady Somerton, was more engaging than either

of her sisters. I often found her at Beckett with her children, of whom

the little Nina--afterwards Countess of Clarendon--used to be put into a

large china pot upon the staircase when she was naughty. Beckett was a

very large luxurious house in the Tudor style, with a great hall, built

by Thomas Liddell, Lady Barrington's brother. The park was rather flat,

but had a pretty piece of water with swans, and a picturesque

summer-house built by Inigo Jones. Much of the family fortune came from

Lord Barrington's uncle, Shute Barrington, Bishop of Durham, who used to

say he was the only licensed poacher in England--"I Shute, by the grace

of God," &c. This old bishop, when his nephew brought his bride to visit

him--a wedding visit--at Mongewell, filled all the trees with rare

cockatoos and parrots, in the hope that when she heard them scream, she

would think they were the native birds of that district. Lord and Lady

Barrington took me, amongst other places, to see Mr. Aitkens of Kingston

Lyle--"the Squire" in Tom Hughes's "Scouring of the White Horse," and

also to see the creature itself, which is far more like a weasel than a

horse. The kindness of Lord Barrington also secured my favourable

reception at every other house in the county, and many were the visits I

paid in Berkshire at places described in my Handbook.

Much kindness was also shown me by old Lady Stanley of Alderley,[156]

who was often very violent, indeed quite furious, about her own

opinions; but full of the most sincere interest and kindness towards me

for my mother's sake. Holmwood, near Henley, whither I went several

times to visit her, was an enchanting place, with luxuriant lawn and

flowers, fine trees, and beautiful distant views. A succession of

grandchildren always filled the house, and found it most enjoyable, the

two unmarried aunts--Rianette (Maria Margaret) and Louisa--being, as one

of them (Lady Airlie) has often told me, "the good fairies of their

childhood." Like most Stanleys, they were peculiarly subject to what

that family calls "fits of righteous indignation" with all who differed

from them; but nobody minded. Having had the most interesting youth

themselves, during which their uncle (afterwards Bishop Stanley) and

other relations were always inventing something for their amusement,

they had a special gift for interesting others, so that those who went

to visit them always felt that though they received many and often

unmerited scoldings, their visit could never be dull. How well I

remember still Louisa Stanley's graphic imitation of many people of her

long-ago--especially of old Mr. Holland, the Knutsford doctor,[157] who

would come in saying, "Well, Miss Louisa, and how are we to-day? We must

take a little more rubbub and magnesia; and I would eat a leetle plain

pudden with a leetle shugger over it!" and then, ringing the bell,

"Would you send round my hearse, if you please?"

Lady Stanley herself had been the pupil of Gibbon at Lausanne, and had

much to tell of past days; and the pertinacity with which she maintained

her own opinions about them and everything else, rendered her

recollections very vivid and amusing. All the family, including my

mother, were so dreadfully afraid of Lady Stanley, that a visit to her

always partook of the nature of an adventure; but it generally turned

out to be a very charming adventure, and I always look back to her with

affectionate gratitude, and feel that there was a great charm in the

singleness, sincerity, and freshness of her character. When I was at

Holmwood, I used to engage a little carriage and go out for long

excursions of eight or ten hours into the country; and when I returned

just before dinner, Lady Stanley was so anxious to hear my adventures,

that she would not wait till I came down, but would insist upon the

whole history through the bedroom door as I was dressing.

If people were not afraid of her, Lady Stanley liked them the better for

it, and she always heartily enjoyed a joke. I remember hearing how one

day at Alderley she raged and stormed because the gentlemen sat longer

after dinner than she liked. Old Mr. Davenport was the first to come

into the drawing-room. "Well now, what _have_ you been doing?" she

exclaimed; "what _can_ you have found to talk about to keep you so

long?"--"Would you really like to know what we've been talking about,

my lady?" said Mr. Davenport. "Yes indeed," she stormed. "Well," said

Mr. Davenport very deliberately, "we talked first about the depression

in the salt (mines), and that led us on inadvertently to pepper, and

that led us to cayenne, and that, my lady, led us ... to yourself,"--and

she was vastly amused. One day her maid told her that there was a

regular uproar downstairs about precedence, as to which of the maids was

to come in first to prayers. "Oh, _that_ is very easily settled," said

Lady Stanley; "the ugliest woman in the house must always, of course,

have the precedence," and she heard no more about it.

Another house which I was frequently invited to use as a centre for my

excursions was that of my father's first cousin, Penelope, Mrs. Warren,

who was living in the old home of Lady Jones at Worting, near

Basingstoke. It was in a most dreary, cold, wind-stricken district, and

was especially selected on that account by Lady Jones, because of its

extreme contrast to the India which she abominated. Internally, however,

the old red-brick house was very comfortable and charming, and Mrs.

Warren herself a very sweet and lovable old lady, tenderly cared for by

her sons and daughters, many of whom were always about her, though only

one of the latter, Anna, was unmarried. Mrs. Warren had been the eldest

of the daughters of Dean Shipley, and the only one who never gave her

family any trouble, and who was invariably loved and honoured by its

other members. Her character through life had been that of a peacemaker,

and in her old age she seemed almost glorified by the effulgence of the

love which had emanated from her, no single member of the family having

a recollection of her which was not connected with some kindly word or

unselfish action.[158] That Lady Jones should bequeath Worting to her

was felt by all the other nephews and nieces to have been most natural.

"Who should it have been to, if not to Penelope?" She liked to talk of

old times, and her reminiscences were most interesting. She was also

very proud of her family, especially of the Mordaunts, and of our direct

descent, through the Shipleys, from the youngest son of Edward I. It was

on one of my early visits at Worting that I first made acquaintance with

my cousin Harriet, Mrs. Thornton, niece of Mrs. Warren, and one of the

daughters of Bishop Heber.[159] She described the second marriage of

her mother to Count Valsamachi in the Greek church at Venice, and the

fun she and her sister thought it to walk round the altar with huge

wedding favours in their hands. She was full of amusing stories of

India, from which she was just returned: would tell how one day she was

sitting next a Rajah who was carving a pie, and when he lifted the crust

a whole flock of little birds flew out--"Whir-r-r-r!" said the Rajah as

they flew all over the room; how, one day, being surprised that an

expected ham was not brought in to dinner, she went out and found it

lying in the court, with all the native servants round it in a circle

spitting at it; and how one day at the Cape she was told that a woman

was bitten by a venomous snake, and going out, found her eating a toad

as a remedy. One of Mrs. Thornton's stories, which I have often repeated

since, is so curious as to deserve insertion here.

"M. de Sartines had been brought up by an old friend of his family

who lived in Picardy. The château of his old friend was the home of

his youth, and the only place where he felt sure that all his

failings would be overlooked and all his fancies and wishes would

be considered.

"While he was absent from France on diplomatic service, M. de

Sartines heard with great grief that his old friend was dead. In

losing him, he lost not only the friend who had been as a second

father, but the only home which remained to him in France. He felt

his loss very much--so much, indeed, that for many years he did not

return to France at all, but spent his time of leave in travelling

in Italy and elsewhere.

"Some years after, M. de Sartines, finding himself in Paris,

received a letter from the nephew of his old friend, who had

succeeded to the Picardy property. It was a very nice letter

indeed, saying how much he and his wife wished to keep up old

family ties and connections, and that though he was well aware that

it would cost M. de Sartines much to revisit the château so

tenderly connected with memories of the dead, still, if he could

make that effort, no guest would be more affectionately welcomed,

and that he and his wife would do their utmost to make him feel

that the friendship which had been held had not passed away, but

was continued to another generation. It was so nice a letter that

M. de Sartines felt that he ought not to reject the hand of

friendship stretched out in so considerate and touching a manner,

and though it certainly cost him a great effort, he went down to

the château in Picardy.

"His old friend's nephew and his wife received him on the doorstep.

Everything was prepared to welcome him. They had inquired of former

servants which room he had occupied and how he liked it arranged,

and all was ready accordingly. They had even inquired about and

provided his favourite dishes at dinner. Nothing was wanting which

the most disinterested solicitude could effect.

"When M. de Sartines retired to his room for the night, he was

filled with conflicting emotions. The blank which he felt in the

loss of his old friend was mingled with a grateful sense of the

kindness he had received from the nephew. He felt he could not

sleep, or would be long in doing so; but having made up a large

fire, for it was very cold weather, he went to bed.

"In process of time, as he lay wakefully with his head upon the

pillow, he became aware of the figure of a little wizened old man

hirpling towards the fire. He thought he must be dreaming, but, as

he listened, the old man spoke--'Il y a longtemps que je n'ai vu un

feu, il faut que je me chauffe.'

"The blood of M. de Sartines ran cold within him as the figure

turned slowly round towards the bed and continued in trembling

accents--'Il y a longtemps que je n'ai vu un lit, il faut que je me

couche.'

"But every fibre in M. de Sartines' body froze as the old man, on

reaching the bed, drew the curtains, and seeing him, exclaimed--'Il

y a longtemps que je n'ai vu M. de Sartines, il faut que je

l'embrasse.'

"M. de Sartines almost died of fright. But fortunately he did not

quite die. He lived to know that it was his old friend himself. The

nephew had got tired of waiting for the inheritance; he had

imprisoned his uncle in the cellar, and had given out his death,

and had a false funeral of a coffin filled with stones. The

invitation to his uncle's friend was a _coup de théâtre_: if any

suspicions had existed, they must have been lulled for ever by the

presence of such a guest in the château. But on the very day on

which M. de Sartines had arrived, the old gentleman had contrived

to escape from his cell, and wandering half imbecile about the

house, made his way to the room where he remembered having so often

been with his friend, and found there his friend himself.

"M. de Sartines saw the rightful owner of the castle reinstated,

and the villainy of the wicked nephew exposed; but the old man died

soon afterwards."

Here is another story which Mrs. Thornton told, apropos of the benefits

of cousinship:--

"Frederick the Great was one day travelling incognito, when he met

a student on his way to Berlin, and asked him what he was going to

do there. 'Oh,' said the student, 'I am going to Berlin to look for

a cousin, for I have heard of so many people who have found cousins

in Berlin, and who have risen through their influence to rank and

power, that I am going to try if I cannot find one too.' Frederick

had much further conversation with him, and on parting said, 'Well,

if you trust to me, I believe that I shall be able to find a cousin

for you before you arrive at Berlin.' The student thanked his

unknown friend, and they parted.

"Soon after he reached Berlin, an officer of the court came to the

student, and said that he was his cousin, and that he had already

used influence for him with the King, who had desired that he

should preach before him on the following Sunday, but that he

should use the text which the King himself should send him, and no

other.

"The student was anxious to have the text, that he might consider

his sermon, but one day after another of the week passed, and at

last Sunday came and no text was sent. The time for going to church

came, and no text had arrived. The King and the court were seated,

and the unhappy student proceeded with the service, but still no

text was given. At last, just as he was going up into the pulpit, a

sealed paper was given to him. After the prayer he opened it, and

it was ... blank! He turned at once to the congregation, and

showing them the two sides of the paper, said, '_Here_ is nothing,

and _there_ is nothing, and out of nothing God made the world'--and

he preached the most striking sermon the court had ever heard."

Mrs. Thornton described how old Mr. Thornton had been staying in

Somersetshire with Sir Thomas Acland, when he heard two countrymen

talking together. One of them said to the other, who was trying to

persuade him to do something, "Wal, noo, as they say, 'shake an ass and

go.'" Mr. Thornton came back and said to Sir Thomas, "What very

extraordinary proverbial expressions they have in these parts. Just now

I heard a man say 'shake an ass and go'--such a _very_ extraordinary

proverbial expression." "Well," said Sir Thomas, "the fact is there are

a great many French expressions lingering in this neighbourhood: that

meant 'Chacun à son goût!'"

Of the new acquaintances I made in Oxfordshire, those of whose

hospitality I oftenest availed myself were the Cottrell Dormers, who

lived at the curious old house of Rousham, above the Cherwell, near

Heythrop. It is a beautiful place, with long evergreen shrubberies,

green lawns with quaint old statues, and a long walk shaded by yews,

with a clear stream running down a stone channel in the midst. Within,

the house is full of old family portraits, and has a wonderful

collection of MSS., and the pedigree of the family from Noah! Mr. and

Mrs. Dormer were quaint characters: he always insisting that he was a

Roman Catholic in disguise, chiefly to plague his wife, and always

reading the whole of Pope's works, in the large quarto edition, through

once a year; she full of kind-heartedness, riding by herself about the

property to manage the estate and cottagers, always welcoming you with a

hearty "Well, to be sure, and how do _you_ do?" She was a _maîtresse

femme_, who ruled the house with a sunshiny success which utterly set at

nought the old proverb--

"La maison est misérable et méchante

Où la Poule plus haut que le Coq chante."

Mrs. Dormer was somehow descended from one of the daughters of Sir

Thomas More, and at Cokethorpe, the place of her brother, Mr.

Strickland, was one of the three great pictures by Holbein of the family

of Sir Thomas More, which was long in the possession of the

Lenthalls.[160] Another place in the neighbourhood of Rousham which I

visited was Fritwell Manor, a most picturesque old house, rented by the

father of my college friend Forsyth Grant--"Kyrie." Fritwell is a

haunted house, and was inhabited by two families. When the Edwardes

lived there in the summer, no figure was seen, but stains of fresh blood

were constantly found on the staircase. When the Grants lived there, for

hunting, in the winter, there was no blood, but the servants who went

down first in the morning would meet on the staircase an old man in a

grey dressing-gown, bleeding from an open wound in the throat. It is

said that Sir Baldwin Wake, a former proprietor, quarrelled with his

brother about a lady of whom they were both enamoured, and, giving out

that he was insane, imprisoned him till real madness ensued. His prison

was at the top of the house, where a sort of large human dog-kennel

still exists, to which the unfortunate man is said to have been

chained.

I made a delightful excursion with "Kyrie" to Wroxton Abbey and

Broughton Castle--Lord Saye and Sele's--where we were invited to

luncheon by Mr. Fiennes and Lady Augusta, in the former of whom I most

unexpectedly found 'Twisleton'[161]--an old hero boy-friend of my Harrow

school-days, whom I regarded then much as David Copperfield did

Steerforth. The old castle is very picturesque, and the church full of

curious monuments.

_To_ MY MOTHER.

"_Christ Church, Oxford, April 25, 1859._--Arthur and I dined last

night at Canon Jelf's. He was for thirteen years tutor to the King

of Hanover, and while at the court fell in love with Countess

Schlippenbach, the Queen's lady-in-waiting, who married him.... Dr.

Jelf told a great deal that was interesting about the King: how, as

Prince George, he would insist upon playing at being his Eton fag,

brush his clothes, make his toast, &c.: that he was with the Prince

at the time of the fatal accident which caused his blindness, when,

in the garden at Kew, having just given half-a-crown to a beggar,

he was whisking his purse round and round, when the ring at the end

went into his eye. A fortnight's anxiety followed, and then came

the great grief of his dear Prince one day saying to him when out

shooting, 'Will you give me your arm, sir? I don't see quite so

well as I ought to do. I think we had better go home.' Afterwards,

instead of murmuring, the Prince only said, 'Those who will not

obey must suffer: you told me not to whisk my things about in that

way, and I disobeyed: it is right that I should suffer for it.'

"He gave many beautiful pictures of the King's after life: how the

dear blind King, who bears no outward mark of his misfortune,

always turns to the sun, as if seeking the light: of his marriage

with his cousin of Saxe-Altenbourg, a true love-match: that he, the

old tutor, was never forgotten, and that on his last birthday, when

he least expected it, a royal telegram announced--'The King, the

Queen, and the royal children of Hanover wish Dr. Jelf many happy

new years.' The King always writes to Dr. and Mrs. Jelf on their

wedding-day, which even their own family do not always remember,

and on their silver-wedding he sent them a beautiful portrait of

himself.

"Arthur, I imagine, rather likes having me here, though no

outsiders would imagine so; but he finds me useful after a fashion,

and is much annoyed if I allude to ever going into lodgings. He

certainly does _exactly_ what he likes when I am there, and is

quite as unreserved in his ways as if nobody whatever was present.

I am generally down first. He comes in pre-engrossed, and there is

seldom any morning salutation. At breakfast I sit (he wills it so)

at the end of the table, pour out his excessively weak tea, and put

the heavy buttered buns which he loves within his easy reach. When

we are alone, I eat my own bread and butter in silence; but if

undergraduates breakfast with us, it is my duty, if I know

anything about it, so to turn the conversation that he may learn

what their 'lines' are, and converse accordingly. Certainly the

merry nonsense and childlike buoyancy which cause his breakfast

parties to be so delightful, make the contrast of his silent

irresponsiveness rather trying when we are alone--it is such a

complete 'you are not worth talking to.' However, I have learnt to

enjoy the first, and to take no notice of the other; indeed, if I

can do so quite effectually, it generally ends in his becoming

pleasanter. In amiable moments he will sometimes glance at my MSS.,

and give them a sanction like that of Cardinal Richelieu--'Accepi,

legi, probavi.' After breakfast, he often has something for me to

do for him, great plans, maps, or drawings for his lectures, on

huge sheets of paper, which take a good deal of time, but which he

never notices except when the moment comes for using them. All

morning he stands at his desk by the study window (where I see him

sometimes from the garden, which he expects me to look after), and

he writes sheet after sheet, which he sometimes tears up and flings

to rejoin the letters of the morning, which cover the carpet in all

directions.[162] It would never do for him to marry, a wife would

be so annoyed at his hopelessly untidy ways; at his tearing every

new book to pieces, for instance, because he is too impatient to

cut it open (though I now do a good deal in this way). Meantime, as

Goethe says, 'it is the errors of men that make them amiable,' and

I believe he is all the better loved for his peculiarities.

Towards the middle of the day, I sometimes have an indication that

he has no one to walk with him, and would wish me to go, and he

likes me to be in the way then, in case I am wanted, but I am never

to expect to be talked to during the walk. If not required, I amuse

myself, or go on with my own work, and indeed I seldom see Arthur

till the evening, when, if any one dines for whom he thinks it

worth while to come out of himself, he is very pleasant, and

sometimes very entertaining."

My mother spent a great part of the spring of 1859 at Clifton, whither I

went to visit her, afterwards making a _tourette_ by myself to

Salisbury, Southampton, Beaulieu, and Winchester.

"_Salisbury, April 12, 1859._--At 8-1/2 I was out on bleak

Salisbury Plain, where, as the driver of my gig observed, 'it is a

whole coat colder than in the valley.' What an immense desert it

is! The day, so intensely grey, with great black clouds sweeping

across the sky, was quite in character with the long lines of

desolate country. At last we turned off the road over the turf, and

in the distance rose the gigantic temple, with the sun shining

through the apertures in the stones. It was most majestic and

impressive, not a creature in sight, except a quantity of rabbits

scampering about, and a distant shepherd."

The latter part of June 1859 I spent most happily in a pony-carriage

tour in Buckinghamshire and Berkshire with my friend George Sheffield,

who had just passed his examination at the Foreign Office. It was on

this occasion that, as we were driving under a park wall in

Buckinghamshire, I said to George, "Inside that park is a very fine old

house, and inside the house is a very fine old sundial. We will go to

see the house, and we will take away the sundial;" and we _did_, though

at that moment I did not even know the name of the people who lived

there. The old house was the Vatche, which had belonged to my

great-great-grandfather, Bishop Hare, who married its heiress in the

reign of George II., and I had heard of the sundial from the

churchwarden of Chalfont, with whom I had had some correspondence about

my ancestor's tomb. It was made on the marriage of Bishop Hare with Miss

Alston and bore his arms. The family of Allen, then living at the

Vatche, allowed us to see the house, and my enthusiasm at sight of the

sundial, which was lying neglected in a corner, so worked upon the

feelings of Mrs. Allen, that she gave it me. It is now in the garden at

Holmhurst.

_To_ MY MOTHER.

"_June 16._--I have enjoyed a visit to the Henry Leycesters at

White Place, which lies low in the meadows, but has the charm of a

little creek full of luxuriant water-plants, down which Henry

Leycester punts his guests into the Thames opposite Clifden; and

how picturesque are the old yew-trees and winding walks of that

beautiful place. Henry Leycester, to look upon, is like one of the

magnificent Vandykes in the Brignole Palace at Genoa. Little Mrs.

Leycester is a timid shrinking creature, who daily becomes terribly

afraid of the domestic ghost (a lady carrying her head) as evening

comes on. 'Imagine my feelings, Mr. Hare,' she says, 'my awful

position as a wife and a mother, when my husband is away, and I am

left alone in the long evenings with _her_.'"

"_June 17, Christ Church._--Last week the Dean, with much

imprudence, punished two Christ Church men most severely for the

same offence, but _one more than the other_. The next night the

Deanery garden was broken into, the rose-trees torn up and

flower-beds destroyed, the children's swing cut down, and the name

of the injured man cut in large letters in the turf. It has created

great indignation.

"My chief work, now I am at Oxford, is in the Bodleian, where I

have much to look out and refer to, and where everything is made

delightful by Mr. Coxe, the librarian,[163] who is not only the

most accurate and learned person in the world, but also the most

sympathetic, lively, and lovable. 'Never mind, dear boy,' he

always says, the more trouble I give him. Anything more unlike the

cut-and-dried type of Oxford Dons cannot be imagined. He has given

me a plant (Linaria purpurea) from the tomb of Cicero.

"I should like to take my Master's degree, but the fees will be

about £20. I could then vote at the election. I should certainly

vote against Gladstone, though Arthur says he should vote for him

'with both hands and both feet.' ... I have great satisfaction in

being here now, in feeling that I can be useful to Arthur, in

preparing drawings for his lectures, &c., also that he really

prefers my presence to my absence."

"_July 4._--I sate up till twelve last night preparing 'the bidding

prayer' for Arthur (who was to preach the 'Act Sermon to-day at St.

Mary's)--immensely long, as the _whole_ of the founders and

benefactors have to be mentioned. Imagine my horror when, after the

service, the Vice-Chancellor came up to Arthur and demanded to know

why _he_ had not been prayed for! I had actually omitted his name

of all others! Arthur said it was all the fault of 'Silvanus.' In

his sermon on Deborah, Arthur described how the long vacation,

'like the ancient river, the river Kishon,' was about to form a

barrier, and might wash away all the past and supply a

halting-place from which to begin a new life: that the bondage

caused by concealment of faults or debts might now be broken: that

now, when undergraduates were literally 'going to their father,'

they might apply the story of the Prodigal Son, and obtain that

freedom which is truth."

[Illustration: HODNET CHURCH.]

In July I paid a first visit to my cousins, the Heber Percys, at Hodnet

Hall, in order to meet Countess Valsamachi (Mrs. Heber Percy's

mother).[164] The old Hodnet Hall was a long low two-storied house, like

an immense cottage, or rather like a beehive, from the abundant family

life which overcrowded it. The low dining-room was full of curious

pictures of the Vernons, whose heiress married one of the Hebers, but

when the pictures had been sent up to London to be cleaned, the cleaner

had cut all their legs off. At this time a debt of £40,000 existed upon

the Hodnet estate. Mr. Percy's father, the Bishop of Carlisle, had

promised to pay it off when certain fees came in. At last the fees were

paid, and the papers were in the house, only awaiting the signature of

the Bishop. That day he fell down dead. When it was told to his

children, they only said, "It is the will of God; we must not complain."

I had much conversation with Lady Valsamachi. Talking of religion, she

spoke of an atheist who once grumbled at the dispensation of a gourd

having such a slender stem, while an acorn was supported by an oak.

"When he had done speaking, the acorn fell upon his nose; had it been

the gourd, his nose would have been no more!"

We walked to where Stoke had been, so tenderly connected with past days.

All was altered, except the Terne flowing through reedy meadows. It was

less painful to me to see it than on my last visit, but cost me many

pangs.

I joined my mother at Toft, where our dear cousin Charlotte Leycester

was acting as mistress of the house, and gave us a cordial welcome to

the old family home. Greatly did my mother enjoy being there, and the

sight of familiar things and people. Especially was she welcomed by an

old woman named Betty Strongitharm; I remember how this old woman said,

"When I am alone, I think, and think, and think, and the end of all my

thinking is that Christ is all in all ... but I do not want to go to

heaven alone; I want to take a many others along with me."

The Story of My Life, volumes 1-3 · 第 58 / 160 题