CHAPTER III

MEGALITHIC MONUMENTS IN SCOTLAND AND IRELAND

The stone circles of Scotland have been divided into three types--the

Western Scottish, consisting of a rather irregular ring or pair of

concentric rings; the Inverness type, in which a chamber entered by a

straight passage is covered by a round tumulus with a retaining wall of

stone, the whole being surrounded by a regular stone circle; and the

Aberdeen type, which is similar to the last, but has a 'recumbent' stone

between two of the uprights of its outer circle.

The first type occurs in the southern counties, in the islands of the

west and north coasts, and also extends into Argyll and Perthshire. The

most famous example is the Callernish Circle in the Isle of Lewis. The

circle is formed by thirteen stones from 12 to 15 feet high, and its

centre is marked by an upright 17 feet high. From the circle extends a

line of four stones to the east and another to the west. To the south

runs a line of five uprights and several fallen stones, and to the

N.N.E. runs a double line, forming as it were an avenue with nine

stones on one side and ten on the other, but having no entrance to the

circle. Inside the circle, between the central stone and the east side

of the ring, is what is described as a cruciform grave with three cells

under a low tumulus. In this tomb were found fragments of human bone

apparently burnt. It has been suggested that the tomb is not part of the

original structure, but was added later.

The native tradition about this circle as repeated by Martin in 1700 was

that it was a druidical place of worship, and that the chief druid stood

near the central stone to address the assembled people. This tradition

seems to have now disappeared.

In the island of Arran, between Brodick and Lamlash, is a damaged circle

21 feet in diameter. At a distance of 60 feet from its circumference in

a direction 35° east of south is a stone 4 feet high. In the centre of

the circle was found a cist cut in the underlying rock containing bluish

earth and pieces of bone. Above were an implement and some fragments of

flint.

On the other side of the island there were still in 1860 remains of

eight circles, five of sandstone and three of granite, quite close to

one another. The diameter of the largest was 63 feet, and the highest

stone reached 18 feet. One of them was a double ring. In four of them

were found cists containing pottery, flint arrow-heads, a piece of a

bronze pin, and some fragments of bone. Others appear to contain no

cists.

In the other islands of the west coast few circles seem to remain; there

are, however, one at Kirkabrost in Skye, and another at Kingarth in

Bute.

At Stromness in Orkney is the famous circle called the Ring of Brogar.

It originally consisted of sixty stones forming a circle 340 feet in

diameter, outside which was a ditch 29 feet wide. In a direction 60°

east of south from the centre, and at a distance of 63 chains, is a

standing stone called the Watchstone, 18 feet high, and 42 or 43 chains

further on in the same line is a second stone, the Barnstone, 15 feet

high. To the left of this line are two stones apparently placed at

random, and to the right are the few remaining blocks of the Ring of

Stenness, somewhere to the north of which was the celebrated pierced

block called the "Stone of Odin," destroyed early in the last century.

At a distance of 42 or 43 chains to the north-east of the Barnstone lies

the tumulus of Maeshowe. This tumulus conceals a long gallery leading

into a rectangular chamber. The walls of this latter are built of

horizontal courses of stones, except at the corners, where there are

tall, vertically-placed slabs. The chamber has three niches or recesses,

one on each of its closed sides. The roof is formed by corbelling the

walls and finishing off with slabs laid across. If one sits within the

chamber and looks in a direct line along the passage one sees the

Barnstone.

A series of measurements and alignments have been taken to connect the

Maeshowe tumulus with the Ring of Brogar. Thus we have already seen that

the distance from the Barnstone to the Watchstone is the same as from

the Barnstone to the tumulus. Moreover, the Watchstone is equidistant

from the ring and from the tumulus. Again, a line from the Barnstone to

the tumulus passes through the point of the midsummer sunrise and also,

on the other horizon, through the point of the setting sun ten days

before the winter solstice; the line from the Watchstone to the Brogar

Ring marks the setting of the sun at the Beltane festival in May and its

rising ten days before the winter solstice, while the line from Maeshowe

to the Watchstone is in the line of the equinoctial rising and setting.

These alignments are the work of Mr. Magnus Spence; readers must choose

what importance they will assign to them.

The Inverness type of circle is entirely different from that of which we

have been speaking. The finest examples were at Clava, seven miles from

Inverness, where fifty years ago there were eight still in existence.

One of these is still partly preserved. It consists of a circle 100 feet

in diameter consisting of twelve stones. Within this is a cairn of

stones with a circular retaining wall of stone blocks 2 or 3 feet high.

The cairn originally covered a circular stone chamber 12-1/2 feet in

diameter entered by a straight passage on its south-west side. In other

words, the Inverness monuments are simply chamber-tombs covered with a

cairn and surrounded by a circle.

Around Aberdeen we find the third type of circle. It consists of a

cist-tomb covered by a low mound, often with a retaining wall of small

blocks, but there is no entrance passage leading into the cist. Outside

the whole is a circle of large upright blocks with this peculiarity,

that between the two highest--generally to the south or slightly east of

south--lies a long block on its side, occupying the whole interval

between them. The uprights nearest this 'recumbent' block are the

tallest in the circle, and the size of the rest decreases towards the

north. Of thirty circles known near Aberdeen twenty-six still possess

the 'recumbent' stone, and in others it may originally have existed.

Passing now to monuments of more definitely sepulchral type we find that

the dolmen is not frequent in Scotland, though several are known in the

lowlands and in part of Argyllshire.

To the long barrows of England answer in part at least the chambered

cairns of Caithness and the Orkneys. The best known type is a long

rectangular horned cairn (Fig. 4), of which there are two fine examples

near Yarhouse. The largest is 240 feet in length. The chamber is

circular, and roofed partly by corbelling and partly by a large slab. In

the cairn of Get we have a shorter and wider example of the horned type.

Another type is circular or elliptical. In a cairn of this sort at

Canister an iron knife was found. On the Holm of Papa-Westra in the

Orkneys there is an elliptical cairn of this kind containing a long

rectangular chamber running along its major axis with seven small

circular niches opening off it. The entrance passage lies on the minor

axis of the barrow.

[Illustration: FIG. 4. Horned tumulus at Garrywhin, Caithness.

(After Montelius.)]

The megalithic monuments of Ireland are extremely numerous, and are

found in almost every part of the country. They offer a particular

interest from the fact that though they are of few different types they

display all the stages by which the more complex were developed from the

more simple. It must be remembered that most if not all the monuments we

shall describe were originally covered by mounds of earth, though in

most cases these have disappeared.

The simple dolmen is found in almost all parts of the country. Its

single cover-slab is supported by a varying number of uprights,

sometimes as few as three, oftener four or more. It is of great

importance to notice the fact that here in Ireland, as elsewhere in the

megalithic area, e.g. Sardinia, we have the round and rectangular

dolmens in juxtaposition (Fig. 5, _a_ and _c_).

[Illustration: FIG. 5. Type-plans of _(a)_ the round dolmen;

_(b)_ the dolmen with portico;

_(c)_ the rectangular dolmen.]

Occasionally one of the end-blocks of the dolmen instead of just

closing up the space between the two nearest side-blocks is pushed back

between them so as to form with them a small three-sided portico outside

the chamber, but still under the shelter of the cover-slab (Fig. 5,

_b_). A good example of this exists at Gaulstown, Waterford, where a

table-stone weighing 6 tons rests on six uprights, three of which form

the little portico just described. The famous dolmen of Carrickglass,

Sligo, is a still more developed example of this type. Here the chamber

is an accurate rectangle, and the portico is formed by adding two

side-slabs outside one of the end-slabs, but still under the cover. This

last is a remarkable block of limestone weighing about 70 tons. This

form of tomb is without doubt a link between the simple dolmen and the

corridor-tomb. The portico was at first built under the slab by pushing

an end-stone inwards. Then external side-stones formed the portico,

though still under the slab. The next move was to construct the portico

outside the slab. The portico then needed a roof, and the addition of a

second cover to provide it completed the transition to the simpler

corridor-tomb. In many cases the Irish simple dolmens were surrounded by

a circle of upright stones. At Carrowmore, Sligo, there seems to have

been a veritable cemetery of dolmen-tombs, each of which has one or more

circles around it, the outermost being 120 feet in diameter. The tombs

in these Carrowmore circles were not always simple dolmens, but often

corridor-tombs of more or less complicated types. Their excavation has

not given very definite results. In many cases human bones have been

found in considerable quantities, sometimes in a calcined condition; but

there is no real evidence to show that cremation was the burial rite

practised. The calcination of human bones may well have been caused by

the lighting of fires in the tomb, either at some funeral ceremony, or

in even later days, when the place was used as a shelter for peasants. A

few poor flints were found and a little pottery, together with many

bones of animals and some pins and borers of bone. The most important

find made, however, was a small conical button made of bone with two

holes pierced in its flat side and meeting in the middle. It is a type

which occurs in Europe only at the period of transition from the age of

stone to that of bronze, and usually in connection with megalithic

monuments.

[Illustration: FIG. 6. Type-plan of the simple rectangular corridor-tomb

or _allée couverte_.]

We pass on now to consider the simplest form of corridor-tomb, that in

which there are several cover-slabs, but no separate chamber (Fig. 6).

These tombs occur in most parts of Ireland. At Carrick-a-Dhirra, County

Waterford, there is a perfect example of the most simple type. The tomb

is exactly rectangular and lies east and west, with a length of 19 feet

and a breadth of 7-1/2. At each end is a single upright, and each long

side consists of seven. The chamber thus formed is roofed by five slabs.

The whole was surrounded by a circle of about twenty-six stones, and no

doubt the chamber was originally covered by a mound. In a somewhat

similar example at Coolback, Fermanagh, the remains of the elliptical

cairn are still visible.

But in most cases the plan of the corridor-tomb is complicated by a kind

of outer lining of blocks which was added to it. Most of the monuments

are so damaged that it is difficult to see what the exact form of this

lining was. Whether it merely consisted of a line of upright blocks

close around the sides of the chamber or whether these supported some

further structure which covered up the whole chamber it is difficult to

say. In some cases the roof-slab actually covers the outer line of

blocks, and here it seems certain that this outer line served simply to

reinforce the chamber walls, the space between being filled with earth

or rubble. However, at Labbamologa, County Cork, is a tomb called Leaba

Callighe, in which this was certainly not the case. The length of the

whole monument is about 42 feet. The slabs cover the inner walls of the

chamber, but not the outer lining: this last forms a kind of outer shell

to the whole monument. It is shaped roughly like a ship, and runs to a

point at the east end, thus representing the bow. The west end is

damaged, but may have been pointed like the east. The whole reminds one

very forcibly of the _naus_ of the Balearic Isles and the Giants' Graves

of Sardinia. Occasionally the corridor-tomb has a kind of portico at its

west end.

[Illustration: FIG. 7. Type-plan of wedge-shaped tomb. The roof slabs

are two or more in number.]

In Munster the corridor-tomb takes a peculiar form (Fig. 7). It lies

roughly east and west, and its two long sides are placed at a slight

angle to one another in such a way that the west end is broader than the

east. In a good example of this at Keamcorravooly, County Cork, there

are two large capstones and the walls consist of double rows of slabs,

the outer being still beneath the cover-slabs. On the upper surface of

the covers are several small cup-shaped hollows, some of which at least

have been produced artificially.

These wedge-shaped structures are of remarkable interest, for exactly

the same broadening of the west end is found in Scandinavia, in the

_Hünenbetter_ of Holland, in the corridor-tombs of Portugal, and in the

dolmens of the Deccan in India.

In some Irish tombs the corridor leads to a well-defined chamber. In a

curious tomb at Carrickard, Sligo, the chamber was rectangular and lay

across the end of the corridor in such a way as to form a T. The whole

seems to have been covered with an oval mound. In another at Highwood in

the same county a long corridor joins two small circular chambers, the

total length being 44 feet. The corridor was once divided into four

sections by cross-slabs. The cairn which covered this tomb was

triangular in form.

In the county of Meath, in the parish of Lough Crew, is a remarkable

series of stone cairns extending for three miles along the

Slieve-na-Callighe Hills. These cairns conceal chamber-tombs. The cairns

themselves are roughly circular, and the largest have a circle of

upright blocks round the base. The chambers are built of upright slabs

and are roofed by corbelling. Cairn H covered a corridor leading to a

chamber and opening off on each side into a side-chamber, the whole

group thus being cruciform. In these chambers were found human remains

and objects of flint, bone, earthenware, amber, glass, bronze, and iron.

Cairn L had a central corridor from which opened off seven chambers in a

very irregular fashion. Cairn T consisted of a corridor leading to a

fine octagonal chamber with small chambers off it on three sides.

The chief interest of these tombs lies in the remarkable designs

engraved on some of the stones of the passages and chambers. They are

fairly deeply cut with a rather sharp implement, probably a metal

chisel. They are arranged in the most arbitrary way on the stones and

are often crowded together in masses. There is no attempt to depict

scenes of any kind, nor is there, indeed, any example of animal life. In

fact, the designs seem to be purely ornamental. The most frequent

elements of design are cup-shaped hollows, concentric circles or ovals,

star-shaped figures, circles with emanating rays, spirals, chevrons,

reticulated figures, parallel straight or curved lines. There seems to

be no clue as to the meaning of these designs. They may have been merely

ornamental, though this is hardly likely.

At New Grange, near Drogheda, there is a similar series of tumuli, one

of which has become famous (Fig. 8). It consists of a huge mound of

stones 280 feet in diameter surrounded by a circle of upright blocks.

Access to the corridor is gained from the south-east side. This corridor

leads to a chamber with three divisions, so that corridor and chambers

together form a cross with a long shaft. The walls are formed of rough

slabs set upright. In the passage the roof is of slabs laid right

across, but the roof of the chamber is formed by corbelling. On the

floor of each division of the chamber was found a stone basin.

[Illustration: Figure 8. Corridor-tomb at New Grange, Ireland (Coffey,

_Transactions of the Royal Irish Academy_, 1892.)]

Around the edge of the mound runs an enclosure wall of stones lying on

the ground edge to edge. A few of these are sculptured. The finest is a

great stone which lies in front of the entrance and shows a

well-arranged design of spirals and lozenges. There are also engravings

on one of the stones of the chambers. These designs are in general more

skilful than those of Lough Crew. They consist mainly of chevrons,

lozenges, spirals, and triangles.

The monuments we have so far described are all tombs. Ireland also

possesses several stone circles. The largest are situated round Lough

Gur, 10 or 12 miles south of Limerick. There was at one time a fine

circle west of Lough Gur at Rockbarton, but it is now destroyed. On the

eastern edge of the lough is a double concentric ring of stones, the

diameter of the inner circle being about 100 feet. The rings are 6 feet

apart, and the space between them is filled up with earth. In 1869 an

excavation was made within the circle and revealed some human remains,

mostly those of children from six to eight years old.

Further north is a remarkable group of monuments known as the

Carrigalla circles. The first is a plain circle (L) 33 or 34 feet in

diameter, composed of twenty-eight stones. The space within them is

filled up with earth to form a raised platform. At a distance of 75 feet

are two concentric circles, diameters 155 and 184 feet respectively,

made of stones 5 or 6 feet high. The space between the two circles is

filled with earth. Within these is a third concentric circle about 48

feet in diameter made of stones of the same size. This group of three

concentric circles we will call M. The line joining the centres of L and

M runs in a direction of 29° or 30° west of north and passes through a

stone (N) 8 feet high standing on the top of a ridge 2500 feet away.

There are two other stones more to the west (O and P) in such a position

that the line joining them (41° west of north) passes through the centre

of M, from which they are distant 860 and 1450 feet respectively.

Further, a line through the centre of L and a great standing stone (Q)

2480 feet from it in a direction 10° east of south passes through the

highest point in the district, 1615 feet away and 492 feet in height.

Mr. Lewis compares this group of monuments with that of Stanton Drew in

Somersetshire. In both a line joining the centre of two circles passes

through a single stone in a northerly direction, and there is in both a

fixed line from the centre of the larger circle. Captain Boyle

Somerville, R.N., finds that the line 29° or 30° west of north would

mark the setting of Capella in B.C. 1600, or Arcturus 500 B.C.; he adds

that the direction 41° west of north would suit Capella in 2500 B.C. or

Castor in 2000 B.C.

On the west side of Lough Gur is another group of monuments. There is in

the first place a circle 55 feet in diameter. On a line 35° east of

north from this is a stone 10 feet high, and the same line produced

strikes a prominent hill-top. Somewhere to the south-west of this

circle, perhaps with its centre in the line just described, lay a second

circle between 150 and 170 feet in diameter, destroyed in 1870. Three

other stones mentioned by early writers as being near the circles have

now disappeared. The direction 35° east of north is the same as that of

the King-stone with regard to the Rollright Circle in Oxfordshire. This

line, allowing a height of 3° for the horizon, would, according to Sir

Norman Lockyer, have struck the rising points of Capella in 1700 B.C.

and Arcturus in 500 B.C.

To the south of the destroyed circle is another about 150 to 155 feet in

diameter, with stones of over 5 feet in height set close together. Earth

is piled up outside them to form a bank 30 feet wide. There is an

entrance 3 feet wide in a direction 59° east of north from the centre of

the circle. There is said to have been at one time a cromlech 100 feet

wide due south of the circle and connected with it by a paved way. Sir

Norman Lockyer thinks that the position of the doorway is connected with

observation of the sun's rising in May. Moreover, the tallest stone of

the circle, 9 feet high, is 30° east of north from the centre, a

direction which according to him points to the rising of Capella in 1950

B.C. and Arcturus in 280 B.C.

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