I nodded again.

The bargain was complete. He was to have two rubles for the drive,

and a little something to warm up his shivering breast. So he could

not be Struve's man.

There is no welcome warmer than a Russian one, and none in any

country warmer than that which the visiting astronomer receives at an

observatory. Great is the contrast between the winter sky of a clear

moonless night and the interior of a dining-room, forty feet square,

with a big blazing fire at one end and a table loaded with eatables

in the middle. The fact that the visitor had never before met one

of his hosts detracted nothing from the warmth of his reception.

The organizer of the observatory, and its first director, was Wilhelm

Struve, father of the one who received me, and equally great as man

and astronomer. Like many other good Russians, he was the father of a

large family. One of his sons was for ten years the Russian minister

at Washington, and as popular a diplomatist as ever lived among us.

The instruments which Struve designed sixty years ago still do as

fine work as any in the world; but one may suspect this to be due more

to the astronomers who handle them than to the instruments themselves.

The air is remarkably clear; the entrance to St. Petersburg, ten or

twelve miles north, is distinctly visible, and Struve told me that

during the Crimean war he could see, through the great telescope,

the men on the decks of the British ships besieging Kronstadt,

thirty miles away.

One drawback from which the astronomers suffer is the isolation of

the place. The village at the foot of the little hill is inhabited

only by peasants, and the astronomers and employees have nearly all

to be housed in the observatory buildings. There is no society but

their own nearer than the capital. At the time of my visit the

scientific staff was almost entirely German or Swedish, by birth

or language. In the state, two opposing parties are the Russian,

which desires the ascendency of the native Muscovites, and the German,

which appreciates the fact that the best and most valuable of the

Tsar's subjects are of German or other foreign descent. During the

past twenty years the Russian party has gradually got the upper hand;

and the result of this ascendency at Pulkova will be looked for with

much solicitude by astronomers everywhere.

Once a year the lonely life of the astronomers is enlivened by a

grand feast--that of the Russian New Year. One object of the great

dining-room which I have mentioned, the largest room, I believe, in

the whole establishment, was to make this feast possible. My visit

took place early in March, so that I did not see the celebration;

but from what I have heard, the little colony does what it can to

make up for a year of ennui. Every twenty-five years it celebrates

a jubilee; the second came off in 1889.

There is much to interest the visitor in a Russian peasant

village, and that of Pulkova has features some of which I have

never seen described. Above the door of each log hut is the name

of the occupant, and below the name is a rude picture of a bucket,

hook, or some other piece of apparatus used in extinguishing fire.

Inside, the furniture is certainly meagre enough, yet one could

not see why the occupants should be otherwise than comfortable.

I know of no good reason why ignorance should imply unhappiness;

altogether, there is some good room for believing that the less

civilized races can enjoy themselves, in their own way, about as

well as we can. What impressed me as the one serious hardship of

the peasantry was their hours of labor. Just how many hours of

the twenty-four these beings find for sleep was not clear to the

visitor; they seemed to be at work all day, and at midnight many of

them had to start on their way to St. Petersburg with a cartload

for the market. A church ornamented with tinsel is a feature of

every Russian village; so also are the priests. The only two I saw

were sitting on a fence, wearing garments that did not give evidence

of having known water since they were made. One great drawback to

the growth of manufactures in Russia is the number of feast days,

on which the native operators must one and all abandon their work,

regardless of consequences.

The astronomical observations made at Pulkova are not published

annually, as are those made at most of the other national

observatories; but a volume relating to one subject is issued whenever

the work is done. When I was there, the volumes containing the

earlier meridian observations were in press. Struve and his chief

assistant, Dr. Wagner, used to pore nightly over the proof sheets,

bestowing on every word and detail a minute attention which less

patient astronomers would have found extremely irksome.

Dr. Wagner was a son-in-law of Hansen, the astronomer of the little

ducal observatory at Gotha, as was also our Bayard Taylor. My first

meeting with Hansen, which occurred after my return to Berlin, was

accompanied with some trepidation. Modest as was the public position

that he held, he may now fairly be considered the greatest master of

celestial mechanics since Laplace. In what order Leverrier, Delaunay,

Adams, and Hill should follow him, it is not necessary to decide.

To many readers it will seem singular to place any name ahead of

that of the master who pointed out the position of Neptune before

a human eye had ever recognized it. But this achievement, great

as it was, was more remarkable for its boldness and brilliancy than

for its inherent difficulty. If the work had to be done over again

to-day, there are a number of young men who would be as successful

as Leverrier; but there are none who would attempt to reinvent

the methods of Hansen, or even to improve radically upon them.

Their main feature is the devising of new and refined methods of

computing the variations in the motions of a planet produced by the

attraction of all the other planets. As Laplace left this subject,

the general character of these variations could be determined without

difficulty, but the computations could not be made with mathematical

exactness. Hansen's methods led to results so precise that, if they

were fully carried out, it is doubtful whether any deviation between

the predicted and the observed motions of a planet could be detected

by the most refined observation.

At the time of my visit Mrs. Wagner was suffering from a severe

illness, of which the crisis passed while I was at Pulkova, and

left her, as was supposed, on the road to recovery. I was, of

course, very desirous of meeting so famous a man as Hansen. He was

expected to preside at a session of the German commission on the

transit of Venus, which was to be held in Berlin about the time of

my return thither from Pulkova. The opportunity was therefore open

of bringing a message of good news from his daughter. Apart from

this, the prospect of the meeting might have been embarrassing.

The fact is that I was at odds with him on a scientific question,

and he was a man who did not take a charitable view of those who

differed from him in opinion.

He was the author of a theory, current thirty or forty years ago,

that the farther side of the moon is composed of denser materials

than the side turned toward us. As a result of this, the centre

of gravity of the moon was supposed to be farther from us than the

actual centre of her globe. It followed that, although neither

atmosphere nor water existed on our side of the moon, the other

side might have both. Here was a very tempting field into which

astronomical speculators stepped, to clothe the invisible hemisphere

of the moon with a beautiful terrestrial landscape, and people it as

densely as they pleased with beings like ourselves. If these beings

should ever attempt to explore the other half of their own globe,

they would find themselves ascending to a height completely above

the limits of their atmosphere. Hansen himself never countenanced

such speculations as these, but confined his claims to the simple

facts he supposed proven.

In 1868 I had published a little paper showing what I thought a

fatal defect, a vicious circle in fact, in Hansen's reasoning on

this subject. Not long before my visit, Delaunay had made this paper

the basis of a communication to the French Academy of Sciences, in

which he not only indorsed my views, but sought to show the extreme

improbability of Hansen's theory on other grounds.

When I first reached Germany, on my way from Italy, I noticed

copies of a blue pamphlet lying on the tables of the astronomers.

Apparently, the paper had been plentifully distributed; but it was

not until I reached Berlin that I found it was Hansen's defense

against my strictures,--a defense in which mathematics were not

unmixed with seething sarcasm at the expense of both Delaunay

and myself. The case brought to mind a warm discussion between

Hansen and Encke, in the pages of a scientific journal, some fifteen

years before. At the time it had seemed intensely comical to see two

enraged combatants--for so I amused myself by fancying them--hurling

algebraic formulae, of frightful complexity, at each other's heads.

I did not then dream that I should live to be an object of the same

sort of attack, and that from Hansen himself.

To be revised, pulled to pieces, or superseded, as science advances,

is the common fate of most astronomical work, even the best.

It does not follow that it has been done in vain; if good, it

forms a foundation on which others will build. But not every great

investigator can look on with philosophic calm when he sees his work

thus treated, and Hansen was among the last who could. Under these

circumstances, it was a serious question what sort of reception Hansen

would accord to a reviser of his conclusions who should venture to

approach him. I determined to assume an attitude that would show

no consciousness of offense, and was quite successful. Our meeting

was not attended by any explosion; I gave him the pleasant message

with which I was charged from his daughter, and, a few days later,

sat by his side at a dinner of the German commission on the coming

transit of Venus.

As Hansen was Germany's greatest master in mathematical astronomy,

so was the venerable Argelander in the observational side of the

science. He was of the same age as the newly crowned Emperor,

and the two were playmates at the time Germany was being overrun

by the armies of Napoleon. He was held in love and respect by the

entire generation of young astronomers, both Germans and foreigners,

many of whom were proud to have had him as their preceptor. Among

these was Dr. B. A. Gould, who frequently related a story of the

astronomer's wit. When with him as a student, Gould was beardless,

but had a good head of hair. Returning some years later, he had

become bald, but had made up for it by having a full, long beard.

He entered Argelander's study unannounced. At first the astronomer

did not recognize him.

"Do you not know me, Herr Professor?"

The astronomer looked more closely. "Mine Gott! It is Gould mit

his hair struck through!"

Argelander was more than any one else the founder of that branch of

his science which treats of variable stars. His methods have been

followed by his successors to the present time. It was his policy

to make the best use he could of the instruments at his disposal,

rather than to invent new ones that might prove of doubtful utility.

The results of his work seem to justify this policy.

We passed the last month of the winter in Berlin waiting for the

war to close, so that we could visit Paris. Poor France had at

length to succumb, and in the latter part of March, we took almost

the first train that passed the lines.

Delaunay was then director of the Paris Observatory, having succeeded

Leverrier when the emperor petulantly removed the latter from his

position. I had for some time kept up an occasional correspondence

with Delaunay, and while in England, the autumn before, had forwarded

a message to him, through the Prussian lines, by the good offices

of the London legation and Mr. Washburn. He was therefore quite

prepared for our arrival. The evacuation of a country by a hostile

army is rather a slow process, so that the German troops were met

everywhere on the road, even in France. They had left Paris just

before we arrived; but the French national army was not there,

the Communists having taken possession of the city as fast as the

Germans withdrew. As we passed out of the station, the first object

to strike our eyes was a flaming poster addressed to "Citoyens,"

and containing one of the manifestoes which the Communist government

was continually issuing.

Of course we made an early call on Mr. Washburn. His career in

Paris was one of the triumphs of diplomacy; he had cared for the

interests of German subjects in Paris in such a way as to earn the

warm recognition both of the emperor and of Bismarck, and at the

same time had kept on such good terms with the French as to be not

less esteemed by them. He was surprised that we had chosen such a

time to visit Paris; but I told him the situation, the necessity

of my early return home, and my desire to make a careful search

in the records of the Paris Observatory for observations made two

centuries ago. He advised us to take up our quarters as near to

the observatory as convenient, in order that we might not have to

pass through the portions of the city which were likely to be the

scenes of disturbance.

We were received at the observatory with a warmth of welcome that

might be expected to accompany the greeting of the first foreign

visitor, after a siege of six months. Yet a tinge of sadness in

the meeting was unavoidable. Delaunay immediately began lamenting

the condition of his poor ruined country, despoiled of two of its

provinces by a foreign foe, condemned to pay an enormous subsidy

in addition, and now the scene of an internal conflict the end of

which no one could foresee.

While I was mousing among the old records of the Paris Observatory,

the city was under the reign of the Commune and besieged by the

national forces. The studies had to be made within hearing of

the besieging guns; and I could sometimes go to a window and see

flashes of artillery from one of the fortifications to the south.

Nearly every day I took a walk through the town, occasionally as

far as the Arc de Triomphe. The story of the Commune has been so

often written that I cannot hope to add anything to it, so far as the

main course of events is concerned. Looking back on a sojourn at so

interesting a period, one cannot but feel that a golden opportunity

to make observations of historic value was lost. The fact is,

however, that I was prevented from making such observations not only

by my complete absorption in my work, but by the consideration that,

being in what might be described as a semi-official capacity, I did

not want to get into any difficulty that would have compromised

the position of an official visitor. I should not deem what we

saw worthy of special mention, were it not that it materially

modifies the impressions commonly given by writers on the history

of the Commune. What an historian says may be quite true, so far

as it goes, and yet may be so far from the whole truth as to give

the reader an incorrect impression of the actual course of events.

The violence and disease which prevail in the most civilized country

in the world may be described in such terms as to give the impression

of a barbarous community. The murder of the Archbishop of Paris and

of the hostages show how desperate were the men who had seized power,

yet the acts of these men constitute but a small part of the history

of Paris during that critical period.

What one writes at the time is free from the suspicion that may

attach to statements not recorded till many years after the events

to which they relate. The following extract from a letter which I

wrote to a friend, the day after my arrival, may therefore be taken

to show how things actually looked to a spectator:--

Dear Charlie,--Here we are, on this slumbering volcano.

Perhaps you will hear of the burst-up long before you get

this. We have seen historic objects which fall not to the

lot of every generation, the barricades of the Paris streets.

As we were walking out this morning, the pavement along one

side of the street was torn up for some distance, and used

to build a temporary fort. Said fort would be quite strong

against musketry or the bayonet; but with heavy shot against

it, I should think it would be far worse than nothing,

for the flying stones would kill more than the balls.

The streets are placarded at every turn with all sorts of

inflammatory appeals, and general orders of the Comite

Central or of the Commune. One of the first things I

saw last night was a large placard beginning "Citoyens!"

Among the orders is one forbidding any one from placarding

any orders of the Versailles government under the severest

penalties; and another threatening with instant dismissal

any official who shall recognize any order issuing from

the said government.

I must do all hands the justice to say that they are all

very well behaved. There is nothing like a mob anywhere, so

far as I can find. I consulted my map this morning, right

alongside the barricade and in full view of the builders,

without being molested, and wife and I walked through the

insurrectionary districts without being troubled or seeing

the slightest symptoms of disturbance. The stores are all

open, and every one seems to be buying and selling as usual.

In all the cafes I have seen, the habitues seem to be

drinking their wine just as coolly as if they had nothing

unusual on their minds.

From this date to that of our departure I saw nothing suggestive

of violence within the limited range of my daily walks, which were

mostly within the region including the Arc de Triomphe, the Hotel

de Ville, and the observatory; the latter being about half a mile

south of the Luxembourg. The nearest approach to a mob that I

ever noticed was a drill of young recruits of the National Guard,

or a crowd in the court of the Louvre being harangued by an orator.

With due allowance for the excitability of the French nature,

the crowd was comparatively as peaceable as that which we may see

surrounding a gospel wagon in one of our own cities. A drill-ground

for the recruits happened to be selected opposite our first lodgings,

beside the gates of the Luxembourg. This was so disagreeable that we

were glad to accept an invitation from Delaunay to be his guests at

the observatory, during the remainder of our stay. We had not been

there long before the spacious yard of the observatory was also used

as a drill-ground; and yet later, two or three men were given _billets

de logement_ upon the observatory; but I should not have known of the

latter occurrence, had not Delaunay told me. I believe he bought

the men off, much as one pays an organ-grinder to move on. In one

of our walks we entered the barricade around the Hotel de Ville, and

were beginning to make a close examination of a mitrailleuse, when a

soldier (beg his pardon, _un citoyen membre de la Garde Nationale_)

warned us away from the weapon. The densest crowd of Communists was

along the Rue de Rivoli and in the region of the Colonne Vendome,

where some of the principal barricades were being erected. But even

here, not only were the stores open as usual, but the military were

doing their work in the midst of piles of trinkets exposed for sale

on the pavement by the shopwomen. The order to destroy the Column

was issued before we left, but not executed until later. I have no

reason to suppose that the shopwomen were any more concerned while

the Column was being undermined than they were before. To complete

the picture, not a policeman did we see in Paris; in fact, I was

told that one of the first acts of the Commune had been to drive

the police away, so that not one dared to show himself.

An interesting feature of the sad spectacle was the stream of

proclamations poured forth by the Communist authorities. They

comprised not only decrees, but sensational stories of victories over

the Versailles troops, denunciations of the Versailles government,

and even elaborate legal arguments, including a not intemperate

discussion of the ethical question whether citizens who were not

adherents of the Commune should be entitled to the right of suffrage.

The conclusion was that they should not. The lack of humor on the

part of the authorities was shown by their commencing one of a rapid

succession of battle stories with the words, "Citoyens! Vous avez

soif de la verite!" The most amusing decree I noticed ran thus:--

"Article I. All conscription is abolished.

"Article II. No troops shall hereafter be allowed in Paris, except

the National Guard.

"Article III. Every citizen is a member of the National Guard."

We were in daily expectation and hope of the capture of the city,

little imagining by what scenes it would be accompanied. It did not

seem to my unmilitary eye that two or three batteries of artillery

could have any trouble in demolishing all the defenses, since a

wall of paving-stones, four or five feet high, could hardly resist

solid shot, or prove anything but a source of destruction to those

behind it if attacked by artillery. But the capture was not so easy

a matter as I had supposed.

We took leave of our friend and host on May 5, three weeks before

the final catastrophe, of which he wrote me a graphic description.

As the barricades were stormed by MacMahon, the Communist line of

retreat was through the region of the observatory. The walls of

the building and of the yard were so massive that the place was

occupied as a fort by the retreating forces, so that the situation

of the few non-combatants who remained was extremely critical.

They were exposed to the fire of their friends, the national troops,

from without, while enraged men were threatening their lives within.

So hot was the fusillade that, going into the great dome after the

battle, the astronomer could imagine all the constellations of the

sky depicted by the bullet-holes. When retreat became inevitable,

the Communists tried to set the building on fire, but did not succeed.

Then, in their desperation, arrangements were made for blowing it up;

but the most violent man among them was killed by a providential

bullet, as he was on the point of doing his work. The remainder

fled, the place was speedily occupied by the national troops, and

the observatory with its precious contents was saved.

The Academy of Sciences had met regularly through the entire Prussian

siege. The legal quorum being three, this did not imply a large

attendance. The reason humorously assigned for this number was that,

on opening a session, the presiding officer must say, _Messieurs,

la seance est ouverte_, and he cannot say _Messieurs_ unless there

are at least two to address. At the time of my visit a score of

members were in the city. Among them were Elie de Beaumont, the

geologist; Milne-Edwards, the zoologist; and Chevreul, the chemist.

I was surprised to learn that the latter was in his eighty-fifth

year; he seemed a man of seventy or less, mentally and physically.

Yet we little thought that he would be the longest-lived man of equal

eminence that our age has known. When he died, in 1889, he was nearly

one hundred and three years old. Born in 1786, he had lived through

the whole French Revolution, and was seven years old at the time of

the Terror. His scientific activity, from beginning to end, extended

over some eighty years. When I saw him, he was still very indignant

at a bombardment of the Jardin des Plantes by the German besiegers.

He had made a formal statement of this outrage to the Academy of

Sciences, in order that posterity might know what kind of men were

besieging Paris. I suggested that the shells might have fallen in

the place by accident; but he maintained that it was not the case,

and that the bombardment was intentional.

The most execrated man in the scientific circle at this time was

Leverrier. He had left Paris before the Prussian siege began, and had

not returned. Delaunay assured me that this was a wise precaution

on his part; for had he ventured into the city he would have been

mobbed, or the Communists would have killed him as soon as caught.

Just why the mob should have been so incensed against one whose

life was spent in the serenest fields of astronomical science was

not fully explained. The fact that he had been a senator, and was

politically obnoxious, was looked on as an all-sufficient indictment.

Even members of the Academy could not suppress their detestation

of him. Their language seemed not to have words that would fully

express their sense of his despicable meanness, not to say turpitude.

Four years later I was again in Paris, and attended a meeting of

the Academy of Sciences. In the course of the session a rustle

of attention spread over the room, as all eyes were turned upon

a member who was entering rather late. Looking toward the door,

I saw a man of sixty, a decided blond, with light chestnut hair

turning gray, slender form, shaven face, rather pale and thin, but

very attractive, and extremely intellectual features. As he passed

to his seat hands were stretched out on all sides to greet him, and

not until he sat down did the bustle caused by his entrance subside.

He was evidently a notable.

"Who is that?" I said to my neighbor.

"Leverrier."

Delaunay was one of the most kindly and attractive men I ever met.

We spent our evenings walking in the grounds of the observatory,

discussing French science in all its aspects. His investigation

of the moon's motion is one of the most extraordinary pieces of

mathematical work ever turned out by a single person. It fills two

quarto volumes, and the reader who attempts to go through any part

of the calculations will wonder how one man could do the work in

a lifetime. His habit was to commence early in the morning, and

work with but little interruption until noon. He never worked in

the evening, and generally retired at nine. I felt some qualms of

conscience at the frequency with which I kept him up till nearly ten.

I found it hopeless to expect that he would ever visit America,

because he assured me that he did not dare to venture on the ocean.

The only voyage he had ever made was across the Channel, to receive

the gold medal of the Royal Astronomical Society for his work.

Two of his relatives--his father and, I believe, his brother--had

been drowned, and this fact gave him a horror of the water.

He seemed to feel somewhat like the clients of the astrologists,

who, having been told from what agencies they were to die, took every

precaution to avoid them. I remember, as a boy, reading a history of

astrology, in which a great many cases of this sort were described;

the peculiarity being that the very measures which the victim took

to avoid the decree of fate became the engines that executed it.

The death of Delaunay was not exactly a case of this kind, yet it

could not but bring it to mind. He was at Cherbourg in the autumn

of 1872. As he was walking on the beach with a relative, a couple

of boatmen invited them to take a sail. Through what inducement

Delaunay was led to forget his fears will never be known. All we

know is that he and his friend entered the boat, that it was struck

by a sudden squall when at some distance from the land, and that

the whole party were drowned.

There was no opposition to the reappointment of Leverrier to his old

place. In fact, at the time of my visit, Delaunay said that President

Thiers was on terms of intimate friendship with the former director,

and he thought it not at all unlikely that the latter would succeed

in being restored. He kept the position with general approval till

his death in 1877.

The only occasion on which I met Leverrier was after the incident

I have mentioned, in the Academy of Sciences. I had been told that

he was incensed against me on account of an unfortunate remark I had

made in speaking of his work which led to the discovery of Neptune.

I had heard this in Germany as well as in France, yet the matter was

so insignificant that I could hardly conceive of a man of philosophic

mind taking any notice of it. I determined to meet him, as I had

met Hansen, with entire unconsciousness of offense. So I called

on him at the observatory, and was received with courtesy, but no

particular warmth. I suggested to him that now, as he had nearly

completed his work on the tables of the planets, the question of

the moon's motion would be the next object worthy of his attention.

He replied that it was too large a subject for him to take up.

To Leverrier belongs the credit of having been the real organizer of

the Paris Observatory. His work there was not dissimilar to that

of Airy at Greenwich; but he had a much more difficult task before

him, and was less fitted to grapple with it. When founded by Louis

XIV. the establishment was simply a place where astronomers of the

Academy of Sciences could go to make their observations. There was

no titular director, every man working on his own account and in

his own way. Cassini, an Italian by birth, was the best known of

the astronomers, and, in consequence, posterity has very generally

supposed he was the director. That he failed to secure that honor

was not from any want of astuteness. It is related that the monarch

once visited the observatory to see a newly discovered comet through

the telescope. He inquired in what direction the comet was going to

move. This was a question it was impossible to answer at the moment,

because both observations and computations would be necessary before

the orbit could be worked out. But Cassini reflected that the king

would not look at the comet again, and would very soon forget what

was told him; so he described its future path in the heavens quite

at random, with entire confidence that any deviation of the actual

motion from his prediction would never be noted by his royal patron.

One of the results of this lack of organization has been that the

Paris Observatory does not hold an historic rank correspondent to

the magnificence of the establishment. The go-as-you-please system

works no better in a national observatory than it would in a business

institution. Up to the end of the last century, the observations

made there were too irregular to be of any special importance.

To remedy this state of things, Arago was appointed director early in

the present century; but he was more eminent in experimental physics

than in astronomy, and had no great astronomical problem to solve.

The result was that while he did much to promote the reputation of

the observatory in the direction of physical investigation, he did

not organize any well-planned system of regular astronomical work.

When Leverrier succeeded Arago, in 1853, he had an extremely difficult

problem before him. By a custom extending through two centuries,

each astronomer was to a large extent the master of his own work.

Leverrier undertook to change all this in a twinkling, and, if reports

are true, without much regard to the feelings of the astronomers.

Those who refused to fall into line either resigned or were driven

away, and their places were filled with men willing to work under the

direction of their chief. Yet his methods were not up to the times;

and the work of the Paris Observatory, so far as observations of

precision go, falls markedly behind that of Greenwich and Pulkova.

In recent times the institution has been marked by an energy and a

progressiveness that go far to atone for its former deficiencies.

The successors of Leverrier have known where to draw the line

between routine, on the one side, and initiative on the part of the

assistants, on the other. Probably no other observatory in the world

has so many able and well-trained young men, who work partly on their

own account, and partly in a regular routine. In the direction of

physical astronomy the observatory is especially active, and it may

be expected in the future to justify its historic reputation.

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