SCIENTIFIC ENGLAND

My first trip to Europe, mentioned in the last chapter, was made with

my wife, when the oldest transatlantic line was still the fashionable

one. The passenger on a Cunarder felt himself amply compensated for

poor attendance, coarse food, and bad coffee by learning from the

officers on the promenade deck how far the ships of their line were

superior to all others in strength of hull, ability of captain, and

discipline of crew. Things have changed on both sides since then.

Although the Cunard line has completed its half century without

having lost a passenger, other lines are also carefully navigated,

and the Cunard passenger, so far as I know, fares as well as any

other. Captain McMickan was as perfect a type of the old-fashioned

captain of the best class as I ever saw. His face looked as if the

gentlest zephyr that had ever fanned it was an Atlantic hurricane,

and yet beamed with Hibernian good humor and friendliness. He read

prayers so well on Sunday that a passenger assured him he was born

to be a bishop. One day a ship of the North German Lloyd line was

seen in the offing slowly gaining on us. A passenger called the

captain's attention to the fact that we were being left behind.

"Oh, they're very lightly built, them German ships; built to carry

German dolls and such like cargo."

In London one of the first men we met was Thomas Hughes, of Rugby

fame, who made us feel how worthy he was of the love and esteem

bestowed upon him by Americans. He was able to make our visit

pleasant in more ways than one. Among the men I wanted to see was

Mr. John Stuart Mill, to whom I was attracted not only by his fame

as a philosopher and the interest with which I had read his books,

but also because he was the author of an excellent pamphlet on the

Union side during our civil war.

On my expressing a desire to make Mr. Mill's acquaintance, Mr. Hughes

immediately offered to give me a note of introduction. Mill lived at

Blackheath, which, though in an easterly direction down the Thames,

is one of the prettiest suburbs of the great metropolis. His dwelling

was a very modest one, entered through a passage of trellis-work in a

little garden. He was by no means the grave and distinguished-looking

man I had expected to see. He was small in stature and rather

spare, and did not seem to have markedly intellectual features.

The cordiality of his greeting was more than I could have expected;

and he was much pleased to know that his work in moulding English

sentiment in our favor at the commencement of the civil war was so

well remembered and so highly appreciated across the Atlantic.

As a philosopher, it must be conceded that Mr. Mill lived at an

unfortunate time. While his vigor and independence of thought led

him to break loose from the trammels of the traditional philosophy,

modern scientific generalization had not yet reached a stage favorable

to his becoming a leader in developing the new philosophy. Still,

whatever may be the merits of his philosophic theories, I believe

that up to a quite recent time no work on scientific method appeared

worthy to displace his "System of Logic."

A feature of London life that must strongly impress the scientific

student from our country is the closeness of touch, socially as

well as officially, between the literary and scientific classes on

the one side and the governing classes on the other. Mr. Hughes

invited us to make an evening call with him at the house of a cabinet

minister,--I think it was Mr. Goschen,--where we should find a number

of persons worth seeing. Among those gathered in this casual way

were Mr. Gladstone, Dean Stanley, and our General Burnside, then

grown quite gray. I had never before met General Burnside, but his

published portraits were so characteristic that the man could scarcely

have been mistaken. The only change was in the color of his beard.

Then and later I found that a pleasant feature of these informal

"at homes," so universal in London, is that one meets so many people

he wants to see, and so few he does not want to see.

Congress had made a very liberal appropriation for observations of the

solar eclipse,--the making of which was one object of my visit,--to

be expended under the direction of Professor Peirce, superintendent

of the Coast Survey. Peirce went over in person to take charge

of the arrangements. He arrived in London with several members of

his party a few days before we did, and about the same time came an

independent party of my fellow astronomers from the Naval Observatory,

consisting of Professors Hall, Harkness, and Eastman. The invasion of

their country by such an army of American astronomers quite stirred up

our English colleagues, who sorrowfully contrasted the liberality of

our government with the parsimony of their own, which had, they said,

declined to make any provision for the observations of the eclipse.

Considering that it was visible on their own side of the Atlantic,

they thought their government might take a lesson from ours.

Of course we could not help them directly; and yet I suspect that

our coming, or at least the coming of Peirce, really did help them a

great deal. At any rate, it was a curious coincidence that no sooner

did the American invasion occur than it was semi-officially discovered

that no application of which her Majesty's government could take

cognizance had been made by the scientific authorities for a grant

of money with which to make preparations for observing the eclipse.

That the scientific authorities were not long in catching so broad

a hint as this goes without saying. A little more of the story came

out a few days later in a very unexpected way.

In scientific England, the great social event of the year is the

annual banquet of the Royal Society, held on St. Andrew's day,

the date of the annual meeting of the society, and of the award of

its medals for distinguished work in science. At the banquet the

scientific outlook is discussed not only by members of the society,

but by men high in political and social life. The medalists are

toasted, if they are present; and their praises are sung, if, as is

apt to be the case with foreigners, they are absent. First in rank

is the Copley medal, founded by Sir Godfrey Copley, a contemporary of

Newton. This medal has been awarded annually since 1731, and is now

considered the highest honor that scientific England has to bestow.

The recipient is selected with entire impartiality as to country,

not for any special work published during the year, but in view of

the general merit of all that he has done. Five times in its history

the medal has crossed the Atlantic. It was awarded to Franklin in

1753, Agassiz in 1861, Dana in 1877, and J. Willard Gibbs in 1902.

The long time that elapsed between the first and the second of these

awards affords an illustration of the backwardness of scientific

research in America during the greater part of the first century of

our independence. The year of my visit the medal was awarded to

Mr. Joule, the English physicist, for his work on the relation of

heat and energy.

I was a guest at the banquet, which was the most brilliant function

I had witnessed up to that time. The leaders in English science

and learning sat around the table. Her Majesty's government was

represented by Mr. Gladstone, the Premier, and Mr. Lowe, afterward

Viscount Sherbrooke, Chancellor of the Exchequer. Both replied

to toasts. Mr. Lowe as a speaker was perhaps a little dull, but

not so Mr. Gladstone. There was a charm about the way in which his

talk seemed to display the inner man. It could not be said that he

had either the dry humor of Mr. Evarts or the wit of Mr. Depew; but

these qualities were well replaced by the vivacity of his manner and

the intellectuality of his face. He looked as if he had something

interesting he wanted to tell you; and he proceeded to tell it in

a very felicitous way as regarded both manner and language, but

without anything that savored of eloquence. He was like Carl Schurz

in talking as if he wanted to inform you, and not because he wanted

you to see what a fine speaker he was. With this he impressed one

as having a perfect command of his subject in all its bearings.

I did not for a moment suppose that the Premier of England could have

taken any personal interest in the matter of the eclipse. Great,

therefore, was my surprise when, in speaking of the relations of

the government to science, he began to talk about the coming event.

I quote a passage from memory, after twenty-seven years: "I had the

pleasure of a visit, a few days since, from a very distinguished

American professor, Professor Peirce of Harvard. In the course of

the interview, the learned gentleman expressed his regret that her

Majesty's government had declined to take any measures to promote

observations of the coming eclipse of the sun by British astronomers.

I replied that I was not aware that the government had declined to

take such measures. Indeed, I went further, and assured him that any

application from our astronomers for aid in making these observations

would receive respectful consideration." I felt that there might

be room for some suspicion that this visit of Professor Peirce was a

not unimportant factor in the changed position of affairs as regarded

British observations of the eclipse.

Not only the scene I have described, but subsequent experience, has

impressed me with the high appreciation in which the best scientific

work is held by the leading countries of Europe, especially England

and France, as if the prosecution were something of national

importance which men of the highest rank thought it an honor to

take part in. The Marquis of Salisbury, in an interval between two

terms of service as Premier of England, presided over the British

Association for the Advancement of Science, and delivered an address

showing a wide and careful study of the generalizations of modern

science.

In France, also, one great glory of the nation is felt to be the

works of its scientific and learned men of the past and present.

Membership of one of the five academies of the Institute of France

is counted among the highest honors to which a Frenchman can aspire.

Most remarkable, too, is the extent to which other considerations than

that of merit are set aside in selecting candidates for this honor.

Quite recently a man was elected a member of the Academy of Sciences

who was without either university or official position, and earned a

modest subsistence as a collaborator of the "Revue des Deux Mondes."

But he had found time to make investigations in mathematical astronomy

of such merit that he was considered to have fairly earned this

distinction, and the modesty of his social position did not lie in

his way.

At the time of this visit Lister was an eminent member of the medical

profession, but had not, so far as I am aware, been recognized as

one who was to render incalculable service to suffering humanity.

From a professional point of view there are no two walks in life

having fewer points of contact than those of the surgeon and the

astronomer. It is therefore a remarkable example of the closeness

of touch among eminent Englishmen in every walk of life, that, in

subsequent visits, I was repeatedly thrown into contact with one

who may fairly be recommended as among the greatest benefactors of

the human race that the nineteenth century has given us. This was

partly, but not wholly, due to his being, for several years, the

president of the Royal Society. I would willingly say much more,

but I am unable to write authoritatively upon the life and work of

such a man, and must leave gossip to the daily press.

For the visiting astronomer at London scarcely a place in London has

more attractions than the modest little observatory and dwelling house

on Upper Tulse Hill, in which Sir William Huggins has done so much

to develop the spectroscopy of the fixed stars. The owner of this

charming place was a pioneer in the application of the spectroscope

to the analysis of the light of the heavenly bodies, and after nearly

forty years of work in this field, is still pursuing his researches.

The charm of sentiment is added to the cold atmosphere of science by

the collaboration of Lady Huggins. Almost at the beginning of his

work Mr. Huggins, analyzing the light of the great nebula of Orion,

showed that it must proceed from a mass of gas, and not from solid

matter, thus making the greatest step possible in our knowledge of

these objects. He was also the first to make actual measures of the

motions of bright stars to or from our system by observing the wave

length of the rays of light which they absorbed. Quite recently an

illustrated account of his observatory and its work has appeared in

a splendid folio volume, in which the rigor of science is tempered

with a gentle infusion of art which tempts even the non-scientific

reader to linger over its pages.

In England, the career of Professor Cayley affords an example of the

spirit that impels a scientific worker of the highest class, and of

the extent to which an enlightened community may honor him for what

he is doing. One of the creators of modern mathematics, he never

had any ambition beyond the prosecution of his favorite science.

I first met him at a dinner of the Astronomical Society Club.

As the guests were taking off their wraps and assembling in the

anteroom, I noticed, with some surprise, that one whom I supposed

to be an attendant was talking with them on easy terms. A moment

later the supposed attendant was introduced as Professor Cayley.

His garb set off the seeming haggardness of his keen features so

effectively that I thought him either broken down in health or just

recovering from some protracted illness. The unspoken words on

my lips were, "Why, Professor Cayley, what has happened to you?"

Being now in the confessional, I must own that I did not, at the

moment, recognize the marked intellectuality of a very striking face.

As a representation of a mathematician in the throes of thought,

I know nothing to equal his portrait by Dickenson, which now hangs

in the hall of Trinity College, Cambridge, and is reproduced in the

sixth volume of Cayley's collected works. His life was that of a

man moved to investigation by an uncontrollable impulse; the only

sort of man whose work is destined to be imperishable. Until forty

years of age he was by profession a conveyancer. His ability was

such that he might have gained a fortune by practicing the highest

branch of English law, if his energies had not been diverted in

another direction. The spirit in which he pursued his work may

be judged from an anecdote related by his friend and co-worker,

Sylvester, who, in speaking of Cayley's even and placid temper,

told me that he had never seen him ruffled but once. Entering his

office one morning, intent on some new mathematical thought which

he was discussing with Sylvester, he opened the letter-box in his

door and found a bundle of papers relating to a law case which he

was asked to take up. The interruption was too much. He flung the

papers on the table with remarks more forcible than complimentary

concerning the person who had distracted his attention at such an

inopportune moment. In 1863 he was made a professor at Cambridge,

where, no longer troubled with the intricacies of land tenure, he

published one investigation after another with ceaseless activity,

to the end of his life.

Among my most interesting callers was Professor John C. Adams, of

whom I have spoken as sharing with Leverrier the honor of having

computed the position of the planet Neptune before its existence

was otherwise known. The work of the two men was prosecuted at

almost the same time, but adopting the principle that priority of

publication should be the sole basis of credit, Arago had declared

that no other name than that of Leverrier should even be mentioned

in connection with the work. If repute was correct, Leverrier was

not distinguished for those amiable qualities that commonly mark the

man of science and learning. His attitude toward Adams had always

been hostile. Under these conditions chance afforded the latter

a splendid opportunity of showing his superiority to all personal

feeling. He was president of the Royal Astronomical Society when

its annual medal was awarded to his French rival for his work in

constructing new tables of the sun and planets. It thus became his

duty to deliver the address setting forth the reasons for the award.

He did this with a warmth of praise for Leverrier's works which

could not have been exceeded had the two men been bosom friends.

Adams's intellect was one of the keenest I ever knew. The most

difficult problems of mathematical astronomy and the most recondite

principles that underlie the theory of the celestial motions were

to him but child's play. His works place him among the first

mathematical astronomers of the age, and yet they do not seem to do

his ability entire justice. Indeed, for fifteen years previous to

the time of my visit his published writings had been rather meagre.

But I believe he was justly credited with an elaborate witticism

to the following effect: "In view of the fact that the only human

being ever known to have been killed by a meteorite was a monk, we

may concede that after four hundred years the Pope's bull against

the comet has been justified by the discovery that comets are made

up of meteorites."

Those readers who know on what imperfect data men's impressions are

sometimes founded will not be surprised to learn of my impression

that an Englishman's politics could be inferred from his mental

and social make-up. If all men are born either Aristotelians or

Platonists, then it may be supposed that all Englishmen are born

Conservatives or Liberals.

The utterances of English journalists of the Conservative party about

American affairs during and after our civil war had not impressed

me with the idea that one so unfortunate as to be born in that

party would either take much interest in meeting an American or

be capable of taking an appreciative view of scientific progress.

So confident was I of my theory that I remarked to a friend with

whom I had become somewhat intimate, that no one who knew Mr. Adams

could have much doubt that he was a Liberal in politics.

An embarrassed smile spread over the friend's features. "You would

not make that conclusion known to Mr. Adams, I hope," said he.

"But is he not a Liberal?"

"He is not only a Conservative, but declares himself 'a Tory of

the Tories.'"

I afterward found that he fully justified his own description.

At the university, he was one of the leading opponents of those

measures which freed the academic degrees from religious tests.

He was said to have been among those who objected to Sylvester,

a Jew, receiving a degree.

I had decided to observe the eclipse at Gibraltar. In order that

my results, if I obtained any, might be utilized in the best way, it

was necessary that the longitude of the station should be determined

by telegraph. This had never been done for Gibraltar. How great

the error of the supposed longitude might have been may be inferred

from the fact that a few years later, Captain F. Green of the United

States Navy found the longitude of Lisbon on the Admiralty charts

to be two miles in error. The first arrangements I had to make

in England were directed to this end. Considering the relation

of the world's great fortress to British maritime supremacy, it

does seem as if there were something presumptuous in the coolness

with which I went among the authorities to make arrangements for

the enterprise. Nevertheless, the authorities permitted the work,

with a cordiality which was of itself quite sufficient to remove

any such impression, had it been entertained. The astronomers did,

indeed, profess to feel it humiliating that the longitude of such

a place as Gibraltar should have to be determined from Greenwich by

an American. They did not say "by a foreigner," because they always

protested against Americans looking upon themselves as such. Still,

it would not be an English enterprise if an American carried it out.

I suspect, however, that my proceedings were not looked upon with

entire dissatisfaction even by the astronomers. They might prove

as good a stimulant to their government in showing a little more

enterprise in that direction as the arrival of our eclipse party did.

The longitude work naturally took me to the Royal Observatory which

has made the little town of Greenwich so famous. It is situated some

eight miles east from Charing Cross, on a hill in Greenwich Park,

with a pleasant outlook toward the Thames. From my youth up I had

been working with its observations, and there was no institution

in the world which I had approached, or could approach, with the

interest I felt in ascending the little hill on which it is situated.

When the Calabria was once free from her wharf in New York harbor,

and on her way down the Narrows, the foremost thought was, "Off for

Europe; we shall see Greenwich!" The day of my arrival in London

I had written to Professor Airy, and received an answer the same

evening, inviting us to visit the observatory and spend an afternoon

with him a day or two later.

I was shown around the observatory by an assistant, while my wife

was entertained by Mrs. Airy and the daughters inside the dwelling.

The family dined as soon as the day's work was over, about the middle

of the afternoon. After the meal, we sat over a blazing fire and

discussed our impressions of London.

"What place in London interested you most?" said Airy to my wife.

"The first place I went to see was Cavendish Square."

"What was there in Cavendish Square to interest you?"

"When I was a little girl, my mother once gave me, as a birthday

present, a small volume of poems. The first verse in the book was:--

"'Little Ann and her mother were walking one day

Through London's wide city so fair;

And business obliged them to go by the way

That led them through Cavendish Square.'"

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