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SIX LETTERS FROM
THE COLONIES.
BY R. C. SEATON.
HULL: WILDRIDGE & CO.
MDCCCLXXXVI.
PREFACE.
I was absent from England eleven months, from November, 1884, to
October, 1885. The first three of these Letters are reprinted, with
slight alterations, from the _Eastern Morning News_. The last three
were written after my return to England. As I have not cared to keep
up the fiction of having written them from Australia, they may
contain some references to events subsequent to my return. It is
often objected, and truly enough, that travellers, who spend only so
short a time as I have in fresh countries, are not justified in
expressing deliberate opinions about them; but this does not apply
where a writer gives his impressions as such, and not as matured
opinions, or where he expresses the opinions of other people who, by
long residence or otherwise in a particular country, have had every
opportunity of forming them. I think it will not be found that I
have offended in this particular.
LONDON,
October, 1886.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
I.--VOYAGE OF THE HAMPSHIRE 7
II.--MELBOURNE 19
III.--VICTORIA 33
IV.--SOUTH AUSTRALIA 47
V.--TASMANIA 60
VI.--AUCKLAND AND SYDNEY 75
I.
The Voyage of the Hampshire.
A Voyage to Australia has in these days become so ordinary an affair
that it may seem to require an apology to attempt to describe one,
but a voyage in a sailing ship is so different from that in a
steamer that it may interest some people. It is, as a rule, only
those who go abroad for their health who prefer a sailing ship, on
account of the great length of the voyage, in allusion to which
steam people call sailing ships "wind jammers," while the sailors
retort on steamers by dubbing them "iron tanks" and "old coffins."
There is no doubt that the picturesqueness of a sea voyage is quite
destroyed by a steamer. There are no, or very few, regular sailors
on board; so much of the work is now done by steam. There are no
"chanties" or sailors' songs, which help the work to go easily. In a
steamer there is no interest in noting the course--they go straight
on, and the distance covered does not vary, or only slightly, from
day to day. The movement of a sailing ship through the water at 12
knots per hour is quite exhilarating; the ship hurries on by "leaps
and bounds." Contrast with this the labouring plunges of a
screw-steamer at the same rate. In short, romance is perishing from
the sea with the universal invasion of steam. Could the poet have
thus written of the Pirate--
"O'er the glad waters of the deep blue sea,
Our thoughts as boundless, and our souls as free,"
if the Pirate was master of a steamer? I think not. However, I do
not deny that a steamer has many and great advantages over a ship.
The chief advantage, and the only one to which I need allude, is the
prosaic but not unimportant one of better food, and this with many
people would decide in favour of a steamer. Perhaps we were
exceptionally unfortunate in this respect. The Hampshire is a barque
of 1,100 tons, and belonging to Captain Hosack, of Liverpool. She is
most commodious; the cabins are much larger than is usual in a
vessel of this size. Mine was not a large one, but it measured 8ft.
by 10ft. 6in. There is, too, a poop deck 70ft. long, which is
scarcely ever touched, even by a heavy sea. When people are
constantly in each other's society for so long they gradually throw
off many of the artificial restraints of society, and exhibit
themselves as they would in their own homes. The result is curious.
A constant process of natural selection goes on, by which like seeks
like, and the estimation in which a particular person is held by
his fellow-passengers is often very different at the close of the
voyage from what it was at the beginning. Taking all things into
consideration, however, I think the saloon passengers on the
Hampshire must be considered to have borne the ordeal very well. We
were 24 in number--rather too many for comfort--all (with two
exceptions) young men, going out to the colonies for various
reasons--some for health, some for business. The two exceptions were
a Canon of the Church of England and his wife, and another gentleman
who was travelling with his nephew. The Canoness was the only lady
on board, the result of which probably was that, though the
civilising influence imparted by the presence of ladies was lost,
yet many jealousies, that might have been thereby occasioned, were
avoided.
The Hampshire left the East India Dock early on Thursday morning,
the 27th November, commanded by Captain John Mathias. She was towed
as far as Beachy Head, but laid up at Deal during the night. At St.
Alban's Head we parted with the pilot. On the Monday we left the
Lizard behind. The next ten days were the most unpleasant of the
whole voyage. We were tossed about in the Bay of Biscay, making
scarcely any progress. One day we even made 16 miles leeway. It was,
perhaps, well that this happened so early on, as all seasickness was
thus comfortably got over. Since that time the weather may be
shortly dismissed. Captain Mathias, the officers, and crew all
declare they have never had so fine a voyage to Australia. For days
and days the sea was only slightly ruffled, and hardly any motion
could be felt. Of course, one result has been that we had a long
passage. We were exactly 100 days from dock to dock, or 96 days from
the Lizard to Cape Otway. The longest run in the 24 hours was in the
Southern Ocean--254 knots. During the latter part of the voyage we
usually made over 200. During the week ending February 15th the
distance covered was 1,408 knots; that ending February 22nd only 945
knots, the wind having fallen light; the following week, however, it
was 1,503 knots. About 16th December Madeira was passed about 30
miles on our left-hand. On the 26th we passed San Antonio, the most
westerly of the Cape Verde Islands, at a distance of about 40 miles.
The line was crossed on the 7th January, about 5-30 p.m. All through
the tropics the heat was not so great as I had anticipated. It was
never more than 87 degs. in the shade and 105 degs. in the sun. The
temperature remained about the same night and day. The sea was about
6 degs. cooler than the air. The daily routine was about somewhat as
follows:--About six the hose was used for cleaning the deck, and
then such of the passengers as chose came on deck and submitted
themselves to it--others meantime pumping for them. Those who had
the hose thereby acquired a right to porridge, which was distributed
about a quarter to seven, but, when the weather was colder, even the
porridge was not sufficient attraction to keep up the number of
"hosees." Breakfast was at 8-45, lunch at 1, dinner at 6. The
captain, chief officer, and doctor occupied the chief seats at the
tables. They changed their seats from time to time to prevent
jealousy, as the captain's company was much in request. Indeed, any
inconveniences we had to put up with were so much alleviated by the
kindness and consideration of Captain Mathias, that he will ever be
gratefully remembered by the passengers on this voyage. The address
of thanks to him at the end of the voyage was no mere lip-service,
but the genuine expression of our sincerest thanks. On all occasions
he managed to combine the courtesy of a gentleman with the frankness
of a sailor. After passing the equator we had to sail very much to
the west, to catch the south-east trades, and were within 100 miles
of the coast of Brazil. On the 60th day out the meridian of
Greenwich was crossed in lat. 38 degs. south. "The meridian of the
Cape of Good Hope," says the captain's log, "was crossed on the 65th
day out, in lat. 35-1/2 degs. south, and the longitude was run down
in the parallel of 42 degs. south. Light winds stuck to the barque
persistently, and as an illustration of the tedious weather, it may
be mentioned that not a topgallant sail was taken in from Biscay to
St. Paul's, and the average running in crossing the Southern Ocean
was only 161 miles per day." The last land sighted was the Island of
Trinidad--an uninhabited rock--in lat. 20 deg. 45' south, long. 29 deg.
48' west. This was on the 16th January and for seven "solid" weeks from
then we were out of sight of land. This time was redeemed from
monotony by tournaments of chess and whist, which filled up the
evenings. There were frequent small quarrels, with reconciliations
more or less sincere, which also afforded distraction. After one the
captain let off a rocket, also one of Holmes's patent "flare-ups."
This is a contrivance for saving life during the dark. It consists
of a box filled with potassium, which is pierced at both ends and
thrown into the sea fastened to a life-buoy. In contact with the
water the metal ignites, and for about half-an-hour sheds a radiance
for a long way. It is visible for miles off. If a man falls
overboard he knows then where to look out for the life-buoy.
The Canon was an adept at shorthand, and a class was formed on
board of 12 of the saloon passengers, who prosecuted it most
vigorously, and really made much progress. An examination was
held at the end of the course of lessons, and prizes awarded.
Several entertainments--musical and dramatic--were given, nearly
all of which proved successful, the very causes of failure on
land being often at sea the cause of success. The prompter was, I
remember, on one occasion much more audible than the actor.
Another time the stage (the main deck) was flooded with sea
water, which increased rather than diminished with every roll. A
chorus of youths and maidens endeavouring to sing and keep their
balance is amusing if not aesthetic. Everything, in fact, suffers
a "sea change," if not into something "rich and strange," often
into something expensive. The first time a passenger ventures on
the forecastle or up the rigging--the peculiar realms of the
sailor--Jack chalks him, which means that he must pay his
footing, by sending a bottle of whisky for'ard. It is seldom that
a stranger long escapes "spotting" under these circumstances. As
a curiosity I may mention that one passenger paid 8s. for a few
things being washed; this was at the moderate price of 6d. each
article, no matter whether it was a collar or a shirt. I should
strongly advise anyone going a long voyage to take a spirit lamp,
as it is often difficult to get hot water unless the thirst of
the cook is constantly allayed. Deck shoes are very convenient,
more especially in the tropics, where one leads a lotus-eating
existence. This is the most delightful part of the voyage in my
opinion, though some prefer the more bracing air of the Southern
Ocean. Without being malicious, however, it is difficult not to
fancy that the pleasure of finding midsummer weather in January
is heightened by the contrast with London fogs and frost, which
we know those at home are suffering from. The greatest resource
of all is reading, and some of us get through a good deal of it,
but it is too tempting, and often interferes with taking regular
exercise, which, though irksome, is almost essential to good
health at sea.
Christmas Day seemed strange enough. The orthodox fare--turkey and
plum-pudding--were on the table, but ice would have been an
agreeable addition. The toasts drunk were "The Queen," "The
Captain," and "Absent Friends." The next day, as we had then been a
month at sea, the sailors "buried the dead horse." As they receive a
month's wages in advance, they do not begin to earn anything until
they have been a month at sea. During this period they are said to
be "working off the dead horse." A barrel covered with matting
formed the body, and appendages for the requisite number of legs and
the tail were put on. The animal was then dragged round the deck to
the accompaniment of a melancholy song--the refrain of which is
"poor old horse." The horse is next put up for sale, and on the
present occasion was knocked down to one of the saloon passengers
for 16s. The money was not really paid, but a collection was made
which came to more than the sum bid. Next, amid the lamentations of
the sailors and the glare of blue lights, the animal was hoisted up
to the main-yard with a sailor on its back, who, dexterously
disengaging himself, let the beast fall with a dull thud into the
water. The sea was so calm that some apprehension was expressed lest
the carcass should be seen the next morning not far to leeward, but
this anti-climax was averted. We have all read of the coming on
board of Neptune at the time of crossing the line, but on our voyage
no notice was taken of it, the reason being, as was supposed, that
the sailors were dissatisfied with the result of the sale of the
dead horse. Well, though it might have been amusing, it was
doubtless more their loss than ours, because when the thing is
analysed, all sailors' doings fundamentally resolve themselves into
an appeal for subscriptions from good-natured passengers. About 15th
January we crossed the sun, which for a short time was vertical at
noon. Peter Schlemihl could then have walked about without
detection, for no one had a shadow.
On our journey we met several ships and steamers, and as the captain
never missed an opportunity of signalling, the course of our voyage
was known from various quarters. First, the number of the Hampshire,
JNBV, is displayed by the flags, each flag representing a letter. A
complete code of arbitrary signals is in use, by which almost any
intelligence can be interchanged. We then told the port we sailed
from, London, and our destination, Melbourne. From one barque, the
County of Anglesea, on her way from Cardiff to Rangoon, which we
fell in with early on the voyage, the captain came on board the
Hampshire to lunch, and afterwards several of our passengers
returned the visit. One of them brought back a small cur, which made
the fourth dog on board--rather too many, as they were always in the
way. Their number was soon reduced 50 per cent. One day what was
known as the "sailor's dog" mysteriously disappeared. Some thought
it had been thrown overboard, but it probably fell over
accidentally, as the dog was universally held to be the least
objectionable. Another, the strange dog, had to be poisoned. On the
10th January we met a German ship bound for Barbadoes from Buenos
Ayres. Here an opportunity for sending letters was gratefully
embraced. The captain promised to hand them over to the British
Consul at Barbadoes. One day, during a calm, the boats were lowered,
and several of us rowed about to look at the Hampshire from a
little distance, while some bathed in a tropical sea. There was no
danger of sharks, which keep away when several bathe together, or
even one, if he splashes about enough. The boatswain caught a
turtle, from which we had some capital soup. Turtles are very
tenacious of life. A knife was thrust into its throat, and its
jugular vein severed, but if it had not been cut up soon after it
would have lived many hours. Indeed, the heart alone kept beating
long after it was severed from the body.
I must say we were badly treated by the "monsters of the deep." They
never came out when wanted. We all expected to catch a shark some
day, but only once was one even seen, and then it was some distance
off, with its knife-like fin just showing above the water. It was
Sunday, too, when no fishing was allowed--a fact of which he was
evidently aware. These fellows are proverbially stupid, and will go
at a bait again and again, even though they must know it to be a
lure. Only once, too, did we catch an albatross, _the_ bird of the
Southern Ocean. That was by a line baited with a small piece of
pork. This was fastened to a round ring of iron, in which the hooked
beak of the bird caught, and so it was dragged on board. The captain
knocked it on the head, and it was then cut up. It measured 13 feet
across the wings, but many are larger than this. The beak was about
6 inches long, curved, and of great power. Sailors have no "ancient
mariner" sentiment as to killing the albatross--in fact, it would be
misplaced. The captain told us of a case he knew of where a man had
fallen overboard, when the albatrosses swooped down upon him, and
pecked out his eyes and brains. The sailors begged the captain to
shoot him and so end his sufferings. The quills of the albatross
make excellent pipe stems, and the skin of the webbed feet is used
for tobacco pouches. But the chief thing about the bird is, of
course, the snowy down on the breast, of which ladies' muffs are
made. The Zoological Society in Regent's Park offer a reward of L100
for a live albatross or black cockatoo, but it has never been
earned, though the attempt to carry them to England has often been
made, for the albatross cannot live through the tropics.
During the last fortnight of the voyage the weather became very
cold for the latitude we were in. The point reached furthest
south was 42 deg. 42' which is about the same as the north of Spain,
but the thermometer was 49 degrees all day. It is, however, well
known that for various reasons the same latitude is much colder
south of the equator. On the night of Monday, the 2nd of March, a
beautiful lunar rainbow, extending right across the sky, was
seen. This is not a common sight. By this time the benefits of
the voyage were visible in the faces of all the passengers. If it
had not been for some shortcomings in the provisions there would
have been no drawback. Cape Otway was sighted on the morning of
Saturday, the 7th March. At 4-30 p.m. we were off Port Philip
Roads, and here the pilot came on board. He brought papers, and
the first news we read was that of subscriptions for a statue to
General Gordon, of whose death we were thus informed; the second
news was the despatch of troops from Sydney to the Soudan, of
which everybody was then talking. At 10-30 p.m. the Hampshire was
anchored off Williamstown, but could not come alongside Sandridge
Pier, till Monday morning. It was rather hard getting up on a
Saturday night, as all were anxious to see their letters. Many of
us went to Melbourne on the Sunday, but in most cases returned to
the ship to sleep, as the luggage could not be landed till
Monday. On that day a general dispersion took place, and many who
will probably never see each other again will have their voyage
on the Hampshire to look back upon with pleasure.
II.
Melbourne.
When I arrived in Melbourne early in March, everybody was
enthusiastic in praise of the New South Wales Government, who had
just despatched their contingent to the Soudan. Gradually this
feeling subsided, and it was afterwards said to be doubtful whether
the Victorian Government would renew their offer later on. The truth
is the Victorians are _plus royalistes que le roi_. Indeed I cannot
help thinking they would feel much less respect for the "British
Constitution" if they had a nearer view of some of the proceedings
at Westminster. But they are human and can scarcely submit with
patience to the repeated snubs they have had from the Home
Government. The inconceivable bungling about New Guinea especially
rankles in their breasts. No one is now so unpopular here as Mr.
Gladstone and Lord Derby. Moreover, as a late Minister in South
Australia said to me--Why should we send out our tradesmen, our
artisans, our clerks, as volunteers, while you send out regular
soldiers? We deplete the colony for what is in reality only a
handful of men, while it means much to us. If we wish to assist the
mother country we can do it better by taking care of our own
defences, and by subscribing money, if necessary, to send to
England. But this view, of course, leaves out of sight the immense
moral effect which has, in fact, been produced by this display of
attachment to the mother country. Such things will do more to bring
about Imperial federation than any number of articles in newspapers
and reviews discussing the merits of various schemes. If the true
spirit is there--the desire for federation--it will put itself into
practice in some form or other. The preliminary step is federation
among the colonies. This is at present much hindered by their mutual
jealousies. "The proper way," said to me a prominent statesman here
who has been twice a Minister of the Crown, "is for England to take
the initiative. Let her send out some leading man who would not be
regarded as the representative of a party--such as Lord
Dufferin--and let him make proposals to the various colonies in
which they might acquiesce, without one seeming to lead the others."
Anyhow here, "as at home" (as England is always called), there is a
widespread notion that federation in some form is a necessity for
the future, if England is to continue to hold her own by the side of
such immense states as Russia and the United States. Providence
seems now to be on the side of the "big nations." I am confident
that even now, people in England fail to realise the importance of
these homes beyond the sea. They enjoy a lovely climate, have
boundless capacities for expansion, and are inhabited by Englishmen
who differ from ourselves only in the fact that they live at a
distance. With the present means of communication, Melbourne is now
as near to London as the North of Scotland was to the South of
England less than a century ago. People look, perhaps, at the
present population of Victoria, which is rather under a million; and
then, observing that it is about the same as that of Liverpool and
Manchester together, they infer that it is of no greater importance.
There could not be a greater mistake. It is a commonplace to say
that their importance is in the future, yet even commonplaces
sometimes need repeating. There is no reason why, within the memory
of men now living, this colony should not be as populous as England
is now. At lunch, some few weeks ago--I remember it was at Dr.
Bromby's, the much-respected late head master of the Church of
England Grammar School--a clergyman narrated some of his experiences
while travelling in England a few years back:--"I was at the house
of a Yorkshire squire, who was speaking of Australia, and said 'Ah!
we used to have a few Australian sovereigns here, but now we see
very few.' I requested those present to examine the sovereigns they
had about them. If you find an 'M' under the Queen's head, it was
coined at Melbourne; if an 'S,' at Sydney. Singularly enough nearly
all the sovereigns they produced had the 'M' or the 'S.' I was
satisfied. It was a dangerous _coup_, but perfectly successful, and
gave the company a much greater idea of the importance of Australia
than anything I could say." In rapidity and at the same time
solidity, of growth there is no city of modern days, I believe, to
be placed beside Melbourne. Fifty years ago it did not exist. Now
with the suburbs the population is 300,000, and in such a liberal
manner have the streets and roads been laid out, that on the present
area there is at least room for a million. Since 1842 Melbourne has
had municipal institutions. In 1851, Victoria was separated from New
South Wales, with Melbourne for the seat of government. Such rapid
increase has been equalled only in America, but there is nothing
American about Melbourne. Many years ago there did come here a few
Americans of "advanced ideas," among others the notorious George
Francis Train, who bequeathed his "damages" against the British
Government--5,000,000 dols. for his arrest in Cork harbour--to the
Irish Republic. The legacy and the legatee have proved equally
unsubstantial. But these men have now died out, or become
respectable citizens. The colonials may be said to resemble the
Americans only in one point, in their aptitude for business. Some
people have come out here in the expectation of "taking in" the
guileless colonist, but the biter has been bit. I have heard of one
manufacturer of pills who soon found out his mistake.
In fact, in face of the nonsense that is sometimes talked to
encourage those who fail in England to come here to make their
fortunes, it seems to me they are far more likely to lose what money
they have. As a rule the same qualities of mind and character that
bring a man success in England will make him successful here, and
for certain people it is better to stay in England. The class that
really suffer in Melbourne is that comprising the man of good
education, who has perhaps taken his degree at one of our
Universities, but who has not any fitness for any particular
calling. Numbers of this class are, I am told, in poverty, if not
actual want. There is here not the same demand for "culture." There
is no outlet for purely literary capacities. The life that is led
here, and which will be led for some time yet, is a somewhat hard
and fast life, and it is most difficult even for one who desires
ease to find it in this feverish atmosphere. The country has
scarcely yet settled down. Among the population there is little
beauty of face or grace of movement. The first settlers were, as a
rule, rough people who had to make their living, and little time to
think of anything beyond, but we are indebted to them, for they are
everywhere the necessary pioneers of civilisation--the mass whose
dead bodies form a bridge for their more fortunate successors. Then
the gold discoveries brought out a lower class. However, the second
generation is a great improvement on the first, and, no doubt, the
usual rule of amelioration of type will make itself felt in due
course. In what I have just been saying I speak in the most general
manner. There are many exceptions, of course, and brilliant ones.
Now to return to Melbourne itself. The streets are very broad,
usually 99 ft., and long and straight. One I know of is 100 yards
broad. Some are planted with trees, while in the streets where there
are shops, verandahs are almost universal along the pavement. The
gutters are very wide--sometimes 5 feet or 6 feet, which is
necessary to carry off the large amount of water coming down when it
rains. At such times the mud is almost impassable. Melbourne proper
is situated in the centre, and stands to the rest of the city
somewhat as the City of London does to the various vestries. In
Melbourne, however, each of the suburbs--15 in number--has a Mayor,
Corporation, and Town Clerk of its own. Any municipality with a
revenue of L25,000 or above, is styled a "city." There is, however,
no body here like the Metropolitan Board of Works, consequently no
united system of drainage and other works in which the whole
community is interested. This is a great defect, and the want of
some central authority is much felt. Each municipality manages its
own district only. I remember, on landing the first time at
Sandridge Pier, some of us drove from there into Melbourne. Someone
complaining of the badness of the road to the driver, "Yes," he said
pathetically, "they spend all the money in drainage."
In public buildings Melbourne can compare well with any other city
of its size. The Public Library, the Law Courts, the Town Hall, the
Post Office, the Exhibition building, are all architectural
ornaments. In the streets there is a want of regularity in the size
of the houses, which will be corrected in the course of time, and
which is incidental to all new cities where people cannot at first
afford to erect lofty structures. Most of the city is on the north
side of the Yarra, which winds very much and empties itself into
Hobson's Bay, about six miles from Melbourne. The intercolonial and
local steamers start from wharves on the river, and passengers by
them have, therefore, to endure the bad smells which always prevail.
The Thames is bad enough sometimes, but the Yarra can only be
compared to the Clyde at Glasgow. A large piece of the river will be
cut off by a canal now in course of construction. Hobson's Bay is
the north-eastern part of Port Philip Harbour, a noble expanse of
water of 800 square miles, with a narrow entrance at the "Heads."
There are sharks in it, so that bathing is carried on in parts that
are fenced off. There used to be a reward offered by the Government
for every shark-skin above 2ft. long. There is a tale of an old
loafer round the Harbour called "Paddy Lynch," who having caught a
shark of 1 ft. 11 in., stretched its skin the required inch. He is
now commonly accosted by the question "Who stretched the shark?" The
Public Library is probably one of the largest and completest of its
kind to be found anywhere. It now contains about 120,000 volumes,
and is rapidly increasing. A new wing is being built to make more
room. The trustees have acted with a view to acquiring books of real
worth, and no book is selected unless it has made its reputation.
Consequently the amount of fiction is small. George Eliot's novels
have only just been admitted. The library is not supported by a
local rate, but by the Government. The same is the case with all the
public libraries throughout the country. However small a township
is, you will probably find a public library and a mechanics'
institution. In the same building with the library are the Picture
Gallery and the Museum. In the former are Miss Thompson's "Quatre
Bras," Long's "Esther," and "A Question of Propriety," the latter
bought off the easel, besides other good paintings. In the vestibule
are plaster casts of some of the aboringines, labelled, "Martha,
aged 14;" "Thames, aged 50;" and so on. They are all remarkably
ugly, but vary in degree, some being actually repulsive. There are
now only a few hundred natives in the whole of Victoria, and they
are miserable creatures, not to be compared, for instance, with
those in the north-west, where in some places the average height of
the natives is 6ft. The library is open daily (except Sunday) from
10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Some time ago the trustees did open the Library
and Picture Gallery on the Sunday, but after five Sundays Parliament
sat, and the Sabbatarians then immediately passed a vote prohibiting
it, although the measure had been very popular. In fact, nothing is
open on Sundays. Public-houses are shut, except to that remarkable
animal--the _bona fide_ traveller. A few weeks ago there was a
deputation to the Premier, urging him to stop all Sunday trains.
This was supported by some ministers who are themselves in the habit
of using trains on Sunday, but they did not find the time ripe for
such a change.
I had an interesting conversation with the learned and accomplished
Town Clerk of Melbourne (Mr. Fitzgibbon) upon the condition of the
legal profession here. The two branches, barristers and solicitors,
are not amalgamated, but the tendency, as in England, is in that
direction. Indeed, in the last session of Parliament a bill to
amalgamate them, after passing the Legislative Assembly, was only
lost by one vote in the Upper House. Still, even in places where a
fusion has taken place, as in Tasmania, I found that, in fact, they
are kept distinct, that is to say one man will devote himself to
speaking in court, another to office-work. Barristers here have a
distinct grievance against the Inns of Court at home. Here an
English barrister can be at once called to the Victorian Bar merely
by being introduced, whereas in England a Victorian barrister has
to keep terms and pass an examination. Formerly he was in no better
position than any other student, but by the exertions of Mr. Webb,
Q.C., of Melbourne, the time of probation has been reduced from
three years to one year for colonial barristers, and the
examination has, I believe, been diminished also. There is a Chief
Justice (at present absent on leave) and four puisne judges. Lately
a paper controversy has been raging between one of the judges and
the Bishop. The judge wrote a pamphlet, entitled "Religion without
Superstition"--a crude _rechauffe_ of the usual sceptical arguments
which have been propounded a thousand times before and infinitely
better expressed. The Bishop has not found it difficult to reply,
but at best this contest between two dignitaries is an unseemly
spectacle. Meanwhile the newspapers sarcastically ask how it is
that the judges, who are said to be so overworked, have time for
such amusements. Religious feeling runs high in Melbourne. The
Presbyterian assembly has recently deposed Mr. Strong, the minister
of the Scotch church, on account of the breadth of his doctrines.
Mr. Strong has been publicly invited by the Unitarian minister to
join their communion. In the State schools there is no religious
instruction except at extra times, and by express desire. This is
due to the action of the Catholics, who naturally object to their
children being taught the Bible by Protestants. About Melbourne
there is nothing provincial, and, although in point of size far
inferior to London or Paris it is almost as cosmopolitan. At night,
Bourke-street is as crowded as the Strand or Regent-street. The
chief hotels are Menzies's, Scott's, the Oriental, and the Grand.
The two first are at the business end of the town, the west end,
and they charge about 12s. per day. The Oriental is at the east end
of Collins-street, exactly opposite the Melbourne club. The charge
there is 10s. per day, and at present it is extremely well managed
by the proprietor in person. The only objection is that it is much
frequented by betting-men, whose shop talk is, I think, more
wearisome and less instructive than that of any other persons. The
Adelaide Jockey Club have just been holding their annual meeting at
Melbourne on account of an attempt by the South Australian
Legislature to abolish betting! On the whole the prices of things
in Melbourne may be said to be about the same as in London. Some
things are much dearer, and not so good, as for instance, cloth
clothes, boots and shoes. Again, house-rent is excessive. I can
give two examples--one, a cottage of one story and four rooms,
which lets for 22s. 6d. per week; another, what is called a
seven-roomed house, but it really has only four rooms, the other
three being merely of the size of dressing-rooms; this is in not at
all a fashionable part, and the rent was lately L98. It has now
been raised to L108. Every house, however, has a bath-room, and the
old houses in which there is no bath have to be fitted with that
convenience before they can be let. On the other hand, food,
especially meat, is much cheaper, but the meat is not so good as at
home, at least in my opinion, but I can scarcely expect this
opinion to be accepted without objection. A fish called "garfish"
is about the best fish here. It is something like a whiting, but
has more taste. Another fish called "trevalli" is not particularly
good. There is no sole or turbot or salmon. The colonial wine is,
upon the whole, very good and wholesome, and is much drunk. At
Geelong lately the heroic measure of destroying the vines has
been taken to prevent the spread of phylloxera. There are several
good clubs in Melbourne--the principal are the Australian at the
west end of the town, and the Melbourne at the east end of
Collins-street. On the introduction of a member (approved by the
committee), strangers are admitted as honorary members for a
month: then for the second month they pay L1, or L6 for six
months; but strangers cannot be taken in casually by a member as
is the case in many London clubs. Most of the clubs have bedrooms
attached, which are much used by travellers in the colonies. They
are, therefore, not merely more comfortable, but usually cheaper
than hotels, because meals are paid for as taken, while at nearly
all hotels the American system of so much a day prevails.
One day I accompanied a friend to the University to be present at
the "annual commencement," when the degrees are conferred. The
"commencement" here occurs about the middle of the term. With us at
Cambridge it is at the end. The ceremony took place in the "Wilson
Hall," which is used as a Senate House, and for other public
functions in connection with the University. The ceremony itself was
almost identical with that at one of our Universities, and it was
similarly interrupted by noisy Undergraduates, whose humour
consisted in rendering the proceedings inaudible without
contributing anything amusing of their own. One lady who took a
degree was much cheered. The Bishop of Melbourne (Dr. Moorhouse) is
the Chancellor, and delivered an address to the "fractious
children," and he then called on the Governor of the colony, who
with Lady Loch was present, for a speech on the subject then
foremost in every one's mind--"Our Defences." This seemed rather
strange at a peaceful academical performance, but the Governor
acquitted himself in a truly diplomatic style, by telling us nothing
we did not know before. On another day I was shown over part of the
University by a young gentleman who had taken his degree in law on
the previous occasion. There are at present two colleges--Trinity
and Ormond--at each of which about 35 Undergraduates are in
residence, while there are about the same number at each
non-resident. The bulk of the students, however, are unattached.
There are 350 altogether, and their number is annually increasing.
There is no University discipline outside of the Colleges, and in
them the students take their meals together. The sitting-rooms are
separate from the bedrooms, and more resemble studies at a public
school than rooms at a University, being usually shared between two
and furnished by the College. There are no fellowships at the
University. At Sydney University on the other hand four fellowships
of L400 a year each have been recently given to the University for
the encouragement of scientific research--a munificent gift which
should lead to much.
To strangers, the climate of Melbourne is trying at first. Suddenly,
in the summer the wind will turn to the north, and in a short time
the thermometer registers 100 degs. in the shade. The heat and dust
are then almost insupportable. The dust rises like a cloud obscuring
even the opposite side of the street. Then the wind will as suddenly
veer to the south. In an hour the temperature falls 40 or 50 degs.,
and the air is cleared by a "southerly buster." In the winter the
north wind is a cold wind. In spite of the climate, the Botanical
Gardens are an admirable specimen of what may be effected by the
skill of man. These gardens are on the south side of the river
Yarra. On a hill in the centre of them is built the Government
House. There are seen many varieties of trees and plants all
carefully labelled. The fern tree bower is very ingenious. You see
here the elk or staghorn fern, which grows as a parasite on the palm
or the petosperum of New Zealand. The grass is kept beautifully
fresh and green, and is a favourite resort. I have no further room
to continue this letter, but, in my next, hope to say something of
the government and the aspect of politics in Victoria.
III.
Victoria.
The Government of Victoria is nearly a pure democracy. Both Houses
are elected by the people, the Legislative Council as well as the
Legislative Assembly. To vote for the former a slight property
qualification is necessary, viz., L10 freehold, or L25 leasehold.
The Assembly is practically elected by universal manhood suffrage,
the only restriction being that a voter must have resided twelve
months in the colony prior to the 1st January or 1st July in any
year. Of course, there is a smouldering agitation for female
suffrage, but it has not yet attained the dimensions of the similar
agitation in England.
It is to me unintelligible how it is that so many people can be
enthusiastic about the prospects of Democracy. As Sir James Stephen
says, "We may be drifting down the stream, but that is no reason we
should sing Hallelujah." There is no magic in the word. It is
simply a form of government, just as monarchy or aristocracy are
forms of government. Nor is it a new form of government. It has been
tried over and over again, more than 2000 years ago, nor has it ever
been a particularly successful or a long-continued form. People
often talk as if liberty were more attainable under a Democracy than
under any other government. Now, putting aside the question whether
liberty is good or bad--for it is entirely a question of time,
place, and circumstance--the opinion is unfounded, because the
tyranny of a majority is just as galling, and usually less
intelligent, than other tyrannies. It has rather cynically been said
that governments are of two kinds--bamboo and bamboozle. A Democracy
combines these two kinds. When political power is so minutely
divided as it is among the voters of England, say, it is not worth
having; and power, as a rule, resides in the hands of demagogues,
instead of the hands of statesmen.
In Victoria, there is government by party, but there are no real
lines of demarcation between them, and it is now merely a struggle
for office between the ins and outs. Each party must be prepared
with a programme to interest the masses, and to be able to go to the
electors with a list of measures to be passed. If a measure is bad,
the Government may be turned out. But the ministers are saddled with
no responsibility in consequence. They simply wait their turn till
the other side makes a mistake. This course has led to legislation
which unduly interferes with liberty. There is now before
Parliament a new Licensing Bill, the principle of which is Local
Option. It is also intended to put down barmaids. Those who at
present exist are to be allowed to remain, 346 in number, but no
fresh ones are to come forward. The publicans are ranged on one
side, some religious bodies on the other. Each side interpret facts
in their own way. But every one knows that the fate of the bill will
depend on the strength of the parties in the House, and not on
argument. Again, the eight hours movement many years ago became law
in Victoria. On the 21st of April in each year its anniversary is
celebrated with a procession and flags and banners. This year the
Governor took part in it, which was thought to be rather undignified
on his part. It is a Socialistic measure, which reduces the good
workman to the level of the ordinary one. All members of the
Assembly receive L300 a year. Hence there are many professed
politicians whose chief object appears to be to keep their seat.
Lately there was an attempt in the House to vote a pension to a
member whose circumstances had been reduced, but the proposal was
defeated. Perhaps the time is not quite ripe for that yet. The
present Ministry is the result of a coalition between Mr. Service
and Mr. Berry. The former was at one time a schoolmaster up the
country, but by his talents and energy has raised himself to the
position of Premier. Mr. Berry is a well-known Radical politician.
It is about six years ago since, in one day, he dismissed the
greater number of the Civil servants in consequence of a
disagreement between the two Houses. Most of them had to be quickly
restored to their places, but public confidence was so much shaken
by this arbitrary act that a large amount of capital was transferred
to New South Wales--five or six millions, I believe--and even yet
the country has not recovered from the shock. This period is known
as the Berry-blight. The present Ministry seems likely to continue
in power so long as they can provide sufficient sensational
legislation.
In Victoria the railways all now belong to the State, and are well
managed, but to stations beyond the suburban lines return tickets
are not issued except on Saturdays, and except to such places as
have a competing steam service, such as Warrnambool or Belfast. The
speed is not high, and to our notions there are very few trains, but
probably enough for the present traffic. Whenever the inhabitants of
any particular district think they would like a railway, they get
their representative to vote for it, and if he can persuade a
sufficient number of other representatives to vote for it, the
railway is made. For some time past the people of the small town of
Buninyong thought they would like a line from Ballarat, from which
it is distant seven miles. As it is not really required, in
consequence of a good service of public conveyances between the two
places, they did not succeed for some time. At length, during the
last session, their representative managed to get 35 others to vote
for it, and the line is now to be made. Each of these 35 may in
their turn require the vote of the member for Buninyong on some
similar occasion. But the actual management of the railways and of
the Civil Service has been put beyond the reach of political
influence by the appointment of Railway and Civil Service
Commissioners, who are permanent officials. When a line is to be
made the Railway Commissioners go over the ground and fix the spots
for stations &c. Every porter has to pass on examination before he
can be appointed. There are only first and second classes. On the
suburban lines the first class are about as good as our second. As a
fact, a number of second class carriages sent out from England are
here used as first, the words "second class" being ingeniously
concealed by a narrow strip of wood. Members of Parliament have a
free pass over all lines. In Victoria the gauge is 5ft. 3in. In New
South Wales it is the same as ours, viz., 4ft. 8-1/2in. Consequently
travellers between Melbourne and Sydney have to change trains at the
border.
In Victoria there is intense opposition to Free Trade. The people
would rather make bad boots and shoes for themselves than import
cheap and good ones from England. Of course I use Free Trade in the
sense of the opposite of protection of native industries. Advocates
of Protection appear to me to confound the end with the means, as if
manufacturers existed for their own sake and not in order to
produce. I have seen the commercial competition between various
countries compared with a horse race. Just as some horses are
handicapped, so customs duties must be levied on the productions of
certain countries to give the others a fair chance! The comparison
would be relevant if the object of a handicap were that the best
horse should win, but the race itself is the object. Bastiat has
reduced this view of commerce to an absurdity in his famous
petition. It is a petition supposed to be presented by the dealers
in oil, tallow, lamps, &c., in Paris, who request that all shutters,
windows, and other apertures for light may be closed against the
sun, which spoils their business by shining so brightly during the
day. If wheat rained from heaven some people would tax it to protect
the farmers. But Free Trade may be made an object of worship in
itself, and can then do nothing but harm. It may be made a rule of
life, not merely a rule of trade. The satisfaction of material needs
is most necessary, and lies at the bottom of civilization, but it is
not therefore the most important, and it is quite conceivable that
the moral advantages to be derived by a community through reliance
on their own energies, may more than compensate for the higher price
of particular articles. It has been found not to be good for the
human race to have things made too pleasant. The West Indian
negroes, "who toil not, neither do they spin," but pick the fruits
of the earth ready to their hands, are not the most exalted
specimens of mankind. It may be a good thing for a man _not_ to have
things too cheaply, if owing to this he is stirred up to work, and
can get money enough to live. Free Traders argue that free trade
will prevent war, by making evident the inconveniences thereby
occasioned to commerce, yet history has never shown that such
considerations have been of much weight when strong national
feelings are aroused. Nor is it, in my opinion, a desirable thing
that they should have a decisive effect. With this class of
arguments Free Traders are powerless to deal.