Bala.—The Lake.—A Jolter.—Glan y Llyn.—Vale of Drws y Nant.—Cader
Idris.—Dolgelley.—The Town Hall.—Parliament House.—St. Mary’s
Church.—Inns.—Angling Stations.—The Cataracts of Rhaiadr Du and Pistyll y
Cain.—Nannau Park.—Anecdote of Owen Glyndwr and Owen Sele.—Road to
Barmouth.—Arrival.—Inns.—A Walk on the Sands.
“I lay on the rock where the storms have their dwelling,
The birth-place of phantoms, the home of the cloud,
Around it for ever deep music is swelling—
The voice of the mountain wind, solemn and loud.”
MRS. HEMANS.
ON the following morning I found myself unable to walk, from the effect
produced by a sprained ancle, and I had the delightful prospect of being
confined to the room of an inn in a country town, without a being to
converse with, or a book to enliven me; but my kind landlord, a fine,
portly, rosy-cheeked, round-headed, honest-hearted Boniface, as ever drew
spigot, kindly offered me a pony, to take me to the lake, which, he said,
contained plenty of perch. This offer I thankfully accepted, and, by the
aid of mine host and his ostler, was soon seated upon the back of a quiet
not-to-be-put-out-of-his-way animal, as any clerical gentleman could
desire to ride upon, and
“With slow and solemn pace,”
proceeded to catch fish, and view the scenery around
LLYN TEGID, OR BALA LAKE.
Seated upon a rock that projects into the lake (under the shadow of which
is the boat-house of Mr. Price, of Rhiwlas,) I commenced my solitary
pastime; but my eyes continually wandered from the float to the
surrounding scenery, which is of a pleasing rather than an imposing
nature. The lake was slightly ruffled by a refreshing breeze, which
fortunately sprang up, and prevented me from dissolving in the heat of
the sun. It is about four miles in length, and in some parts it is forty
yards in depth. The shores are sloping, the soil gravelly, and
delightfully variegated with plantations of trees and shrubs. Towards
the head of the lake the mountains are upon a very grand scale, and rival
Snowdon in their altitude; Arran Vowddwy is the loftiest of these, near
the summit of which, upon its eastern side, beneath a huge crag, is
situated a lake, which affords excellent sport to the angler, although
the fish are not of the finest quality.
[Picture: Bala Lake]
Arrenig Vawr, (or great,) which is nearly as lofty as Arran Vowddwy, and
rises upon the N.W. side of the Llyn, has also a lake, containing trout
of a large size, which are noted for rejecting the artificial fly; but,
about half way up the Arrenig Vâch, (or little,) is a lake, which, when a
light breeze sweeps along its surface, will amply reward the angler for
his trouble in reaching it. A morning and an evening, at each of these
places, enable me to state thus much, for the benefit of the disciples of
Izaac Walton.
I was suddenly aroused from a dream of pleasure, which I was enjoying
with my eyes open, by a tug at my line, reminding me that a fish had
swallowed the hook. After a little coquetting, which lovers usually make
use of, I brought it to my arms, and then thrust it into my bag: a fine
perch! I now resolved to begin in earnest, and in an hour, by my
temptation and insinuation, contrived to obtain a very handsome dish,
with which I returned upon my pony to the inn, resigning them and myself
to the care of mine hostess.
The town of Bala consists of one long street, has about 2500 inhabitants,
and is celebrated for its manufacture of woollen articles, such as
stockings, gloves, and formerly Welsh wigs. Upon an eminence at the S.E.
end of the town, the old women and young girls assemble in considerable
numbers, during the summer months, to pursue their industrious avocations
in the open air. The mound is called Tommen y Bala; it is said to be of
Roman construction, and from the summit a very fine view may be obtained
of Llyn Tegid and the mountains. There is a town hall, and a chapel of
ease to the parish church at Llanycil, about a mile distant, where the
morning service is read in English only upon the first Sunday in each
month.
Rising early the following morning I found no inconvenience from my
ancle, and after a good breakfast took leave of my host and his wife,
both of whom appeared anxious to see me comfortably seated in the
vehicle.
The car in which I was bumped along the road, in every respect resembled
those delightful conveyances that rattle the astonished traveller from
Cork to Blarney. It is a sort of oval box, placed upon two wheels, with
a door behind, and with good wedging will contain four persons; but being
springless and cushionless, the passenger is jolted to his heart’s
content, that is, if his heart has been set on jolting; and, without
doubt, it is fine exercise for persons of sedentary habits, if by any
chance, their bones happen to escape dislocation. My knapsack (my
opposite, and only fellow passenger) and I, looked very black at each
other, as we bobbed up and down, like a cockney grocer’s apprentice upon
a high trotting horse; but I soon became resigned, and my knapsack having
shifted its berth for the bottom of the vehicle, seemed to rest more
comfortably than on the seat. Notwithstanding the inconvenience I
suffered from this carriage, I could not help admiring the extreme beauty
of the lake, as we pursued our course along its borders; sometimes only
catching a glimpse of it through the trees that shaded its delightful
margin. Its waters were smooth and motionless; not a ripple was visible
upon its surface; the lofty mountains reflected in its breast gave a
sombre tinge to the otherwise golden scene, and as I looked into the
clear depths of the shadows, I thought how peacefully one shattered by
the storms of life might sink beneath, and be at rest!
After passing Glan y Llyn (an estate belonging to Sir W. W. Wynn, who
claims the whole fishing of this beautiful piece of water, and has, by
putting a quantity of pike therein, destroyed all the trout and gwynniad
with which it once abounded) the scenery became wild, and cheerless,
until we reached
THE VALE OF DRWS Y NANT,
where, to my great satisfaction, the car stopped at the sign of the Welsh
Prince, a distance of ten miles from Bala, and eight from Dolgelley.
Being thoroughly tired with my ride, I thought I would endeavour to
obtain the proper use of my limbs, and rest myself by walking the
remainder of the journey. Dismissing the car, therefore, and strapping
my knapsack to my shoulders, I once more took the road.
About a mile beyond the Welsh Prince the valley becomes truly beautiful.
Waving woods adorn the mountains upon either side. The Wnion here begins
to be an important stream; and, though in its course towards Dolgelley it
is swelled by numerous mountain tributaries into a broad river, the trees
upon its banks form an impenetrable screen, which conceal it from the
traveller, and its hoarse murmur, as it dashes over the rocks that vainly
endeavour to intercept its way, alone remind him of its vicinity. At
length I arrived at a spot where a road leads over a bridge to the
opposite side of the river. Thinking this would be a proper place to see
the Wnion to advantage, I advanced to the centre of the bridge. The
effect is beautiful; hanging woods adorn the banks of the stream,
lofty-ash trees (around the trunks of which the ivy winds itself in
snakelike folds, feeding upon the tree that supports it), spread their
proud heads above, and form a pleasing shade, while below the river
roars, as it is precipitated beneath the arch in two large falls, that
form a deep pool on the opposite side.
Nearly the whole of this lovely valley is the property of Sir Robert
Vaughan. Pursuing my journey towards Dolgelley, a sudden turn in the
road and an opening in the dell revealed to my delighted eyes the
celebrated mountain called Cader Idris.
CADER IDRIS,
the loftiest mountain in Merionethshire, and the second in North Wales,
is said to be 950 yards in perpendicular height from Dolgelley Green.
Cader Idris literally means “Idris’s chair,” where he is supposed to have
studied astrology; and Idris is a name attributed to Enoch, the founder
of astronomy. Mr. Edward Jones, to whom the public are indebted for his
learned and ingenious work, entitled “The Bardic Museum,” observes that
“Caer Idris implies the city of the learned;” and Mr. Rowland, in his
“Mona Antiqua,” mentions a place in Anglesey called Caer Idris, also Bôd
Idris, or “Idris’s abode or mansion,” in Yale, Denbighshire, which still
retains the name, as well as that of Llêch Idris, or “the shelter of
Idris,” a farm so called, at Trawsvynydd in Merionethshire, which also
may imply the grave of Idris. Idris is supposed to have flourished in
the third or fourth century, and his genealogy from an old manuscript,
runs thus:—“Idris Gawr ab Gwyddno, ab Tibion, ab Cunedda Wledig.”
[Picture: Cader Idris, from the Bala Road]
Snowdon and Cader Idris were formerly supposed to be the Parnassian hills
of Wales, and none but good bards could claim so elevated a seat.
Idris, the champion or bard, invented the harp; or if the Gomerian
Britons brought that instrument into the country, when they first
inhabited the island, it seems to have been lost and forgotten; for Idris
is said to have invented something similar; but it is probable he only
made some improvement on the ancient harp, or perhaps his superior skill
in performing on it might have gained him that reputation. From all that
can be gathered from tradition, he was a learned man, an astrologer, and
a bard; and it is likely that the summit of this mountain was chosen by
him, to examine from thence the movements of the heavenly bodies, to
write his inspired verses, or to frame laws for the government and
benefit of his country.
The walk from this spot to Dolgelley is exceedingly beautiful; and as the
tourist approaches the town before crossing the bridge which is flung
over the river Mawddach, a sign of some importance attracts his attention
upon the right: it runs thus:—
R. PUGH,
Guide General
To the Waterfalls, Cader Idris,
And all the curious scenery in
The vicinity of Dolgelley.
N.B. Licenced to let saddled horses.
DOLGELLEY,
or Dolgelleu, the Dale of the Hazel, is the principal market town in
Merionethshire, and the assizes are held here, alternately with Bala.
The town hall, the most important building, is a neat stone edifice,
erected in the year 1825, and cost £3000. It is built near the banks of
the river Wnion, (pronounced Oonion) and the court room is fitted up with
every necessary accommodation for the officers of justice. In the hall
is a very fine portrait of Sir R. W. Vaughan, Bart., painted by Sir M. A.
Shee, F.R.A.
Part of an old building, called “Cwrt Plâs yn-y Drêv,” or the Town-hall
Court, is still remaining amongst a range of wretched hovels at the back
of the post office, in which a parliament was held by Owen Glyndwr. The
county jail at the outskirts of the town is of a semi-circular form,
built of stone, and was erected in 1811, at an expense of £5000.
St. Mary’s Church is a neat limestone edifice, of Grecian architecture,
with a handsome tower, and an expansive nave. In it is an ancient
monument of an armed knight, who is represented in a suit of mail,
helmet, a neck guard, a sword in his hand, and a dog at his feet; a lion
passant gardant is on his shield, upon which is inscribed: “Hic jacet
Mauric Filius Ynyr Vychan.” There is a modern one lately erected to the
memory of Baron Richards.
[Picture: Parliament House of Owen Glyndwr]
The town is celebrated for a manufacture of coarse woollen cloths and
flannels, called webs. The old town-hall is used for various purposes;
English church service is performed there every other Sunday; it is also
used as a national school, and children are there taught to sing the
church psalms. It is likewise known as the theatre.
Those fond of fine scenery should ascend the mountain from the north side
of the vale, to obtain the best view of the town, as it lies sheltered at
the foot of the majestic Cader Idris, which rears its lofty shoulders in
the clouds.
Clustering woods adorn the opposite range of mountains, as they slope in
irregular masses westward to the ocean. The river beautifully meandering
through the green meadows, the solemn quietude that prevails around,
disturbed only by the sound of the church clock, marking the progress of
the fleeting hours with lengthened tone, which, like the music of another
world, sweeps through the enchanting vale, combine to render this a place
where those not wedded to routs, masquerades, gambling, and
licentiousness, might wish to live and die.
Dolgelley contains several good inns, of which the most frequented are
the Golden Lion, the Angel, and the Ship. Comfortable lodgings may
likewise be obtained, at a cheap rate, by those who desire to remain in
the neighbourhood for the purpose of making excursions to the Falls,
Kymmer Abbey, and Nannau Park, the fishing stations, Dol y Gamedd on the
Aran, Llyn-tri-Graienyn, Llyn y Gader, Llyn Geirw, Tal y Llyn, &c.
The tourist should not quit Dolgelley without visiting the Waterfalls,
which, after heavy rains, are very magnificent. As I was still suffering
from the severe sprain, I was accommodated by my friend, who also obliged
me with his company, with a very fine horse to carry me to the falls;
and, bold and sure-footed, he performed his duty nobly, in spite of
crags, cliffs, hills, and hollows.
THE RHAIADR DU
is situated in the grounds belonging to Miss Madock, called Dôl
Melynllyn. Here the torrent leaps from a height of sixty feet over
precipitous rocks, and plunges with a violence that seems to shake the
crags and trees around, into a deep pool, from which it proceeds down the
dingle, over black and broken fragments, to the river Mawddach. A
footpath conducts the tourist to the bottom of the falls, from which,
stepping upon some loose stones in the middle of the stream, he will
obtain the best view of the cataract. A walk of about three miles brings
him to the falls of the Mawddach and Pistyll y Cain, returning from
which, he may visit Y Vanner, or Kymmer Abbey, founded in 1198, by
Meredith and Gruffydd, lords of Merioneth, dedicated to St. Mary, and
inhabited by monks of the Cistercian order. It is not now, however,
worthy of the tourist’s attention. But Nannau Park, the seat of Sir
Robert William Vaughan, will afford much pleasure to those who visit it.
The grounds are thickly wooded, and the mansion is supposed to occupy the
highest ground of any residence in Britain. The approach to it is five
miles in length; it stands 702 feet above the level of the sea, and the
park is celebrated for its venison. Previously to the year 1814, there
stood an oak in this park which bore a name terrible to the ears of the
peasantry; it was called
DERWEN CEUBREN YR ELLYLL,
which translated, means, “the hollow oak, the haunt of demons.” In this
oak, it is said, Owen Glyndwr immured the body of Howell Sele, the
proprietor of this estate, who, while they were walking together,
treacherously shot an arrow at the breast of Glyndwr, who, however,
having armour beneath his doublet, fortunately received no hurt. The
cause of this treachery is said to have been the indignation expressed by
Owen at his kinsman’s refusal to join his cause to redress his country’s
wrongs. Glyndwr forced his body into the hollow of this oak, most likely
after having slain him, where, forty years after this event, a skeleton
was discovered. The chieftain, after laying waste the mansion and domain
of Sele, hastened to join his friends. Sir W. Scott has written a very
beautiful poem upon this legend, which will be found in the fifth note to
his sixth canto of Marmion, and is called the “spirit’s blasted tree.”
In 1813, this monarch of the wood fell to the ground.
The country from Dolgelley to the mouth of the river is well worth a
journey of three hundred miles to visit, even though there were no other
objects worthy of notice in North Wales, and will amply compensate the
most eager researcher after the sublime and beautiful.
At a turn of the coach road from a place called Ty-gwyn, a splendid view
of Cader Idris is obtained, particularly in the evening, when the mists
arise from the numerous lakes in the vicinity, like volumes of smoke from
a domain of fire, curling in fantastic forms around the mountain’s waist,
leaving its summit stern and clear in an unclouded sky—like a proud giant
surveying with disdain the dwarfish host of which he is the leader.
Another noble view attracts attention, at a place called Glan
Mawddach—the broad arm of the sea, stretching for miles between the
rugged mountains, which, shrouded in veils of silvery mist, fling their
dark shadows into the depths of the water. Arriving at
BARMOUTH,
the coach stopped at the Corsygedol Arms; but I proceeded to the
Commercial Inn, where there is very good accommodation, and a good
look-out seaward. A warm bath of sea water refreshed me; and by the star
light I strolled upon the sands, which are very hard and pleasant to walk
upon, while my repast was preparing at the inn. The night was calm and
serene, and my mind naturally adapted itself to the surrounding scene.
“The brave o’erhanging firmament—the majestical roof fretted with golden
fire,” appeared to me far from being “a foul and pestilent congregation
of vapours.” My soul took wing, and bounded from star to star, leaping
the realms of space, and plunging into infinity, till wearied with its
immeasurable flight, it resought its earthly tenement, and my body, which
it left immoveable, as if transformed to marble, resumed its functions.
The low moan of the ocean swam on my ear, like heavenly music. A light
breeze brought with it delicious freshness; and, as I looked towards the
land, all seemed as quiet as the abode of peace. The lights from the
houses had a pleasing effect, as they streamed through the windows, row
above row, under and upon the side of the overhanging cliffs.
I returned to “mine inn,” and my meal being despatched, retired to bed.