Transcribed from the 1853 Whittaker and Co. edition by David Price.
[Picture: Llangollen]
THE
TOURIST’S
GUIDE THROUGH NORTH WALES.
BY
G. J. BENNETT.
* * * * *
WITH ETCHINGS, BY A. CLINT.
* * * * *
London:
WHITTAKER AND CO., AVE MARIA LANE.
G. PHILIP & SON, LIVERPOOL; J. MORGAN, OSWESTRY.
1853.
ILLUSTRATIONS.
1 Llangollen facing Title Page.
2 Chirk Castle 26
3 Font in the Grounds of Plâs Newydd 35
4 Castell Dinas Brân 39
5 Valle Crucis Abbey 40
6 Pillar of Eliseg 42
7 Bala Lake 50
8 Cader Idris, from the Bala Road 54
9 Parliament House of Owen Glyndwr 56
10 View from Carreg y Saeth 68
11 Harlech Castle 75
12 The Vale of Maentwrog 79
13 The Raven Fall, near Maentwrog 83
14 Pont Aber Glaslyn 88
15 Snowdon, from the Pass of Llyn 92
Gwynant
16 Pass of Llanberis 96
17 The Coffin of Leolinus Magnus 114
18 Conwy Castle 119
PREFACE.
THE Author’s object in offering to the Public the following pages is,
that all who have a desire to examine the beauties of Welsh scenery may
also have an opportunity of seeing the most _interesting_ portion of it
in a tour which will not occupy more than a month. The route described
in this volume presents a variety of pictures which can scarcely be
equalled, and certainly not surpassed, in any quarter of the globe. It
is true there are hills higher far than any in Snowdonia, and valleys
more extensive; but, while we are astonished at a description of the
enormous magnitude of the Asiatic and American mountains, and the noble
rivers, and sea-like lakes of the latter, let us take into our
consideration which is the most desirable country to explore; that in
which nature’s prodigies are so extensive that we can neither ascend the
eminences, ford the rivers, nor view the opposite shores of the extensive
lakes; or _that_ where mountains may be scaled with ease, from the
summits of which a series of glorious panoramas burst upon the
eye,—wherein the valleys, glens, and wild ravines present an endless
variety of sublimity and beauty, and the loud torrent and the waterfall
pour forth their melody of never-tiring sweetness, to delight the ear?
Seas must be crossed, and miles of dreary and uninteresting country
traversed, in wandering from one grand object to another in the _former_;
while, in the route here represented to the Public—within the reach of
all—repose and admiration charm the heart by turns, in the rich fertile
valleys, lofty and wood-clad hills, or heather-mantled mountains, of
North Wales. The traveller is likewise insured the comfort of a good
inn, where he may rest his wearied limbs after a day’s ramble in whatever
part of the district he chooses to select for his excursion; and the
healthy and active should decidedly make _use_ of their _limbs_, to bear
them through this tour, in preference to the more easy and luxurious
vehicle, and even to the equestrian mode of conveyance. A good
horsewoman may venture into the dark defiles, or climb the craggy heights
upon the ponies, which are always in readiness at the inns for that
purpose; but between a man and his steed there will most assuredly be a
strong feeling of sympathy created by a conviction that the one is a most
unnecessary burthen to the other.
The peasantry are simple, honest, and obliging; and, as they trudge
along, a spirit of freedom sparkles in their eyes, and seems to animate
every action of their unfettered limbs. Though their fare is humble,
they enjoy it with an appetite to which the bracing air of their hills,
and their happy ignorance of luxuries, gives an enviable zest.
Drunkenness is a vice almost unknown among these primitive mountaineers:
milk is their common beverage, oatmeal cakes, and potatoes, with a
plentiful supply of trout from their native streams, form their chief
summer food; while, in winter, dry salted beef and mutton serve to
satisfy their utmost wishes.
“Though poor the peasant’s hut, his feasts tho’ small,
He sees his little lot the lot of all.
* * * *
Dear is that shed to which his soul conforms,
And dear that hill which lifts him to the storms.
And, as a child, when scaring sounds molest,
Clings close and closer to the mother’s breast,
So the loud torrent, and the whirlwind’s roar,
But bind him to his native mountains more.”
DIRECTIONS
TO THOSE UNACQUAINTED WITH THE WELSH LANGUAGE.
A knowledge of the Welsh alphabet is indispensable to those who are
desirous of correctly pronouncing the necessary questions and answers
that transpire upon the road. The names of places must effectually
puzzle any tourist, who is not acquainted with the peculiar sound of each
letter particularly where there are many consonants in a word. In order,
therefore, to aid the traveller in Wales, I have selected the following
rules.
In the Welsh alphabet there are no mutes; and all letters that are
circumflex must be pronounced long, as
Bôn like the English bone.
Bin, as been.
C, always as K in English.
Ch, is pronounced as the Greek _Χ_.
Dd, as the English th in this, that, thou.
F, as V in English.
Ff as F and double F in English.
G, as G in good, but never soft as in genial.
I, as I in king, but never as in fire.
Ll, as L aspirated.
Th, as in thought.
U, as I in the English words bliss, kiss, &c.
W, as double O in good, wood.
Y, as U in burn; but in the last syllable of a word, and in all
monosyllables except Y, Ydd, Ym, Yn, Yr, Ys, Fy, Dy, Myn, it is like I in
Sin.
By attending to these rules, the stranger will easily make himself
understood by the peasantry, and on his tours, in enquiring for any place
to which he may be journeying.
GLOSSARY.
_Ab_, (or _Ap_,) the son of.
_Aber_, the junction of a river with the sea.
_Allt_, a hill; a mutation of _gallt_.
_Annedd_, a dwelling place.
_Am_, about.
_Ar_, upon. _Arvon_, bordering upon _Môn_, or Anglesey.
_Ardal_, a region.
_Argae_, an embankment.
_Avon_, a river.
_Bâch_, little; when joined to a substantive feminine, it is written
_vâch_.
_Bala_, an outlet.
_Ban_, high, lofty. Plur. _banau_, heights, or eminences.
_Banc_, a bank.
_Bâs_, shallow.
_Bedd_, a grave.
_Blaen_, a point, upper end, or extremity.
_Bôd_, an abode, residence, habitation.
_Bôn_, the base.
_Braenar_, fallow land.
_Braich_, an arm.
_Brîg_, top, summit.
_Brîth_, speckled, mottled.
_Bron_, a breast, the slope of a hill.
_Bryn_, a hill, or mount. Pl. _bryniau_.
_Buwch_, a cow.
_Bwlch_, a pass, or defile. Pl. _bylchau_.
_Câd_, battle, war.
_Cader_, a chair.
_Cae_, a field. Pl. _caeau_.
_Caer_, a fortress, or fortified town.
_Cantrev_, a district containing 100 townships. A canton, a hundred.
_Capel_, a chapel.
_Careg_, a stone. Pl. _ceryg_.
_Carn_, a heap of stones. The hoof of a horse.
_Carnedd_, a heap of stones. Pl. _carneddau_.
_Castell_, a castle. Pl. _cestyll_.
_Ceulan_, bank of a river.
_Cevn_, the bank, ridge of a hill.
_Cîl_, a recess. _Cilvach_, a small recess.
_Clawdd_, a hedge, dyke. _Clawdd Offa_, Offa’s dyke.
_Clogwyn_, a precipice.
_Côch_, red.
_Coed_, trees. Sing. _coeden_, a tree.
_Côr_, a circle, a choir. _Bangor_, high choir.
_Corlan_, a sheepfold.
_Cors_, a bog, or fen.
_Craig_, a rock, a crag. Pl. _creigiau_.
_Croes_, a cross.
_Crug_, a hillock. Pl. _crugion_.
_Cwm_, a valley, dingle, glen.
_Cymmer_, the junction of two rivers.
_Dau_, two.
_Dehau_, south, the right side.
_Din_, _dinas_, a city, a fort, a fortified place on a hill.
_Dôl_, a meadow.
_Drws_, a doorway.
_Du_, black; hence _dwrdu_, the river Dee; literally, Black-water.
_Dwy_, two. (fem.)
_Dwr_, or _dwvr_, water. Pl. _dyvroedd_.
_Eglwys_, a church.
_Erw_, an acre.
_Esgair_, a leg, a long ridge of mountain.
_Fordd_, a road.
_Fynnon_, a fountain, a well.
_Gaer_, a mutation of _caer_, as _y gaer_, the fortress.
_Gallt_, a hill; in construction, _allt_.
_Gardd_, a garden.
_Garth_, a promontory.
_Gelli_, a grove of hazels.
_Glan_, the brink, bank; _glan y môr_, the sea side.
_Glâs_, blue, grey, green.
_Glyn_, a glen.
_Gorsav_, a station, stand.
_Grug_, heath.
_Gwaelod_, a bottom.
_Gwaen_, a large plain.
_Gwern_, watery meadow. Alder.
_Gwydd_, wood.
_Gwyn_, white. Fem. _gwen_, _wen_.
_Gwyrdd_, green. Fem. _gwerdd_, _werdd_.
_Havod_, a summer dwelling.
_Hen_, old. _Hendre_, old mansion.
_Heol_, a street.
_Hir_, long.
_Iâl_, open country.
_Is_, lower. _Isav_, lowest.
_Llain_, a long piece.
_Llan_, a church; a village with a church.
_Llawr_, a floor.
_Llech_, a flat stone, slate, slab.
_Lluest_, an encampment.
_Llwyd_, grey, hoary.
_Llwyn_, a grove, a bush, a copse.
_Llyn_, a lake, pool.
_Llys_, a court, a palace.
_Maen_, a stone. Pl. _meini_.
_Maenor_, a manor.
_Maes_, an open field.
_Mall_, bad, rotten.
_Man_, a place.
_Mawn_, peat. _Mawnog_, a turbary.
_Mawr_, great, large.
_Melin_, a mill.
_Melyn_, yellow.
_Merthyr_, a martyr.
_Moel_, bald, bare; a bare hill.
_Môn_, Anglesey.
_Môr_, the sea.
_Morva_, a marsh.
_Mynach_, a monk.
_Mynydd_, a mountain.
_Nant_, a brook, ravine, glen.
_Neuadd_, a hall.
_Newydd_, new.
_Ochr_, a side.
_Pant_, a hollow.
_Parth_, a division, a part.
_Pen_, a head.
_Penmaen_, a promontory, a rocky head.
_Penrhyn_, a promontory, a cape.
_Pentrev_, a village, a hamlet.
_Perth_, a brake, a thornbush.
_Pistyll_, a spout of water.
_Plâs_, a mansion, a hall.
_Plwyv_, a parish.
_Pont_, a bridge.
_Porth_, a gate, a ferry.
_Pwll_, a pit, a pool.
_Rhaiadr_, a cataract, a waterfall.
_Rhiw_, a slope.
_Rhôs_, a moor.
_Rhudd_, crimson, ruddy.
_Rhyd_, a ford. _Rhydycroesau_, the ford of the Crosses.
_Sarn_, a causeway.
_Serth_, steep, abrupt.
_Swydd_, an office, a county.
_Tal_, the head or front. _Talcen_, the forehead.
_Tan_, under.
_Tervyn_, the boundary.
_Tir_, the earth.
_Tommen_, a tumulus.
_Traeth_, a sand.
_Trev_, a town.
_Tri_, three.
_Troed_, a foot. Pl. _traed_, feet.
_Trwyn_, a nose.
_Twr_, a tower.
_Ty_, a house. Pl. _Tai_, houses.
_Tyddyn_, a farm.
_Tywyn_, a strand, a sandy shore.
_Uchav_, highest.
_Uwch_, higher.
_Y_, the.
_Yn_, in.
_Ynys_, an island.
_Yspytty_, a hospital.
_Ystlys_, the side, the flank.
_Ystrad_, a flat, a vale.
_Ystum_, a bend.
_Ystwyth_, flexible.
THE ROUTE.
ROUTE. MILES. OBSERVATIONS.
From LONDON to SHREWSBURY, thence 154 _Objects of
to Interest_.—Castle,
Abbey, Lord Hill’s
Column, Quarry Walk,
and Town Hall.
_Angling
Station_.—The Severn.
_Hotels_.—The Lion,
Raven, Raven and
Bell, and Crown.
CHIRK 22 _Objects of
Interest_.—The
Castle, Brynkinalt,
Viaduct, Aqueduct,
and Vale.
_Angling
Station_.—The
Ceiriog.
_Hotel_.—The Chirk
Castle Arms.
LLANGOLLEN 7 _Objects of
Interest_.—Church,
Plâs Newydd, Castle
Dinas Brân, Valle
Crucis Abbey, Pillar
of Eliseg, Aqueduct
and Viaduct.
_Angling
Stations_.—The Dee,
to Corwen or Overton.
_Hotels_.—The Hand,
Royal Hotel, and
Ponsonby Arms.
CORWEN 10 _Objects of
Interest_.—The
Church, Cross,
Glyndwr’s Seat, Vale
of Edeyrnion.
_Angling
Stations_.—Between
Corwen and
Llansaintffraid
bridge.
_Hotel_.—The Owen
Glyndwr.
LLANDRILLO 6 _Hotel_.—White Lion.
BALA 6 _Objects of
Interest_.—The Lake,
Aran Vawddwy, Arenig
Vawr, Arenig Vâch.
_Angling
Stations_.—Bala Lake,
River Dee, Treweryn,
&c.
_Hotels_.—White Lion
and Bull’s Head.
DOLGELLEY 18 _Objects of
Interest_.—Nannau
Park, Kymmer Abbey,
County Gaol,
Parliament House of
Owen Glyndwr, Pistyll
Cain, Rhaiadr
Mawddach, and
Dolymelynllyn.
Llanvachreth
Waterfall.
_Angling
Stations_.—Mawddach,
River Wnion, Llyn
Cregynan, S.W. 4
miles, Llyn-y-Gader,
1½ m., Llyn Geirw, 5
m., Tal-y-llyn, on
Cader Idris, 6 m.
_Hotels_.—Golden
Lion, Angel, & Ship.
BARMOUTH 10 _Objects of
Interest_.—Old Town,
Sarn Badrig,
Cors-y-gedol.
_Angling
Stations_.—Llyn
Raithlyn, nr.
Trawsvynydd, Arthog
Chapel, 3 m. distant,
Llyn Bodlyn, 4 miles
from Barmouth, Llyn
Irddyn and Llyn
Geirw, near the town.
_Hotel_.—Cors-y-gedol
Arms.
HARLECH 10 _Objects of
Interest_.—The
Castle, Cwm Bychan,
Cromlech, 2 m. S. in
a farm called Gwern
Einion; Druidical
Circle between the
farm and Harlech.
_Angling
Stations_.—
Llanvihangel, on
Dwyryd, 5 m.;
Llanbedr on the
Artro, 3 m.;
Llyn-y-Vedw, Llyn
Eiddew, Gloywlyn;
Llyn y Cwm Bychan,
Llyn Trewyn.
_Hotel_.—The Blue
Lion.
MAENTWROG 10 _Objects of
Interest_.—Tan-y-
Bwlch, Slate
Quarries, 5 m.;
Rhaiadr Du and Raven
Fall, 2 m.;
Festiniog, 3 m.;
Falls of Cynvael,
Roman Encampment
(Tommen-y-Mur), 3 m.
from Festiniog.
_Angling
Stations_.—Llyn
Llenyrch, 3½ m. (good
trout); Cwmmorthin
Lake (in the Pass of
Cwmmorthin) 4½ m.;
Llyn-y-Manod, 6 m.
(large trout);
Llyn-y-Morwynion, 6
m.; Llyn Tecwyn, 3
m.; Llyn Conwy, Llyn
Garw.
_Hotels_.—Maentwrog
Inn, Oakley Arms. At
Festiniog, Pengwern
Arms.
TREMADOC 10½ _Objects of
Interest_.—The
Breakwater at Port
Madoc; Church.
_Angling Station_.—At
Tremadoc.
_Hotel_.—Madoc Arms.
BEDDGELERT 10½ _Objects of
Interest_.—Pont Aber
Glaslyn, Gelert’s
Grave, Chair of Rhys
Gôch o’r Eryri.
_Angling
Stations_.—Nant
Gwynnant, Llyn Dinas,
Cwm Llan, Llyn
Gwynnant, Llyn
Llydaw, Pont Aber
Glaslyn.
_Hotel_.—The Goat.
LLANBERIS 14 _Objects of
Interest_.—Dolbadarn
Castle, Church, Tomb
of Little John Closs,
Well of St. Peris,
Lakes, Pass.
_Angling
Stations_.—Upper and
Lower Lakes (bad
sport), Llyn Cwm
Dwythog, 2 m.; Llyn
Llydaw (on Snowdon),
5 m.; Glaslyn, on the
west of Snowdon.
_Hotels_.—Victoria
and Snowdonia.
CAPEL CURIG 10 _Objects of
Interest_.—Rhaiadr-y-
Wennol Waterfall,
Moel-Siabod,
Dolwyddelan Castle, 5
m.
_Angling
Stations_.—Same as
above.
_Hotel_.—Capel Curig
Inn.
BETTWS-Y-COED 5 _Objects of
Interest_.—Pont-y-
Pair, Shenkin’s Cave,
Church, Monument to
Davydd Gôch.
_Angling
Stations_.—Lake
Ogwen, Nant Francon,
Llyn Idwal, River
Llugwy.
LLANRWST 5 _Objects of
Interest_.—The
Bridge, Gwydir
Castle, Church,
Gwydir Chapel.
_Angling
Stations_.—Bettws-y-
Coed, 3 m.; Trevriw,
2½ m.; Dolgarrog, 4
m.; Llanbedr, 5 m.;
Dolwyddelan, 8 m.;
Tal-y-Llyn, and Llyn
Cravnant, near
Llanrwst.
_Hotel_.—The Eagles.
CONWY 12 _Objects of
Interest_.—The
Castle, Church,
Curious Monuments,
Plâs Mawr, Ormshead,
Suspension and
Tubular Bridges.
_Angling
Stations_.—Same as
above.
_Hotels_.—Castle &
Newborough Arms.
BANGOR 9 _Objects of
Interest_.—Penrhyn
Castle, Slate
Quarries, Britannia
Tubular Bridge, Menai
Bridge, Beaumaris,
Castle, Penmon
Monastery, Plas
Newydd, Baron Hill,
Puffin Island, and
the Cathedral.
_Angling
Stations_.—Llyn
Ogwen, Llyn Idwal,
and Ogwen River.
_Hotels_.—The Penrhyn
Arms, Castle,
Liverpool Arms, and
Albion.
CARNARVON 8 _Objects of
Interest_.—The
Castle, the Harbour,
and Ruins of
Segontium, at
Llanbeblig.
_Hotels_.—Uxbridge
Arms, Castle, and
Sportsman.
_Angling
Stations_.—The
Seiont, Pont Newydd.
_And back to Bangor_ 8
ABERGELE 25¼ _Objects of
Interest_.—Kinmel
Park, Gwrych Castle.
_Angling
Stations_.—Elwy,
Aled.
_Hotel_.—Bee.
RHYL 4¼ _Objects of
Interest_.—A _detour_
viâ Rhuddlan, 2 m.,
St. Asaph, 3½,
Denbigh, 6, affords a
pleasant day’s
excursion.
_Angling
Stations_.—Clwyd and
Elwy.
_Hotels_.—Belvoir,
Royal, Mostyn Arms.
HOLYWELL 13 _Objects of
Interest_.—St.
Winefred’s Well,
Basingwerk.
_Hotels_.—White
Horse, King’s Arms,
King’s Head, Red
Lion.
FLINT 5 _Object of
Interest_.—The
Castle.
_Hotels_.—Royal Oak,
Ship.
HAWARDEN 7½ _Objects of
Interest_.—Castle and
Park.
_Hotel_.—Glynne Arms.
CHESTER 7 _Objects of
Interest_.—The Castle
and Armory, the
Walls, Rows,
Cathedral, Old Houses
in Watergate Street,
Underground Chapel in
Bridge Street, and
the Ancient Residence
of the Earls of
Derby.
_Angling
Station_.—The Dee.
_Hotels_.—Royal,
Albion, Feathers,
White Lion, Green
Dragon, Blossoms,
Hop-pole.
FIVE DAYS’ EXCURSION FROM CHESTER OR SHREWSBURY.
FIRST DAY.—Chester or Shrewsbury to Llangollen Road Station by rail, 20
miles; Llangollen, 5 m; Corwen, 10 m.
SECOND DAY.—Bettws y Coed, 22½ m; Llanrwst, 5 m; Capel Curig, 10 m.
THIRD DAY.—Llanberis, 10 m; Dolbadarn Castle and back, 4 m; Beddgelert,
12 m; Pont Aber Glaslyn and back, 3 m; Carnarvon, 13 m.
FOURTH DAY.—Bangor, 8 m; Plas Newydd, 5 m; Beaumaris, 6½ m.
FIFTH DAY.—Conwy, 14¼ m; Llandudno, Orme’s Head, back to Conwy, 10; and
per rail to Chester, 45½ m.
NINE DAYS’ EXCURSION FROM CHESTER.
FIRST DAY.—Chester to Hawarden, 7 m; Flint, 7 m; Holywell, 5 m.
SECOND DAY.—Rhyl, 13½ m; Rhuddlan, 2 m; St. Asaph, 3½ m; Denbigh, 6 m.
THIRD DAY.—Abergele, 13 m; Conwy, 11 m.; Llandudno and back, 10 m.
FOURTH DAY.—Bangor, 14½ m.; Plas Newydd, 5 m; Beaumaris, 6 m. (See
Bridges.)
FIFTH DAY.—Holyhead and back, 50 m; Carnarvon, 8.
SIXTH DAY.—Beddgelert, 13 m; Pont Aber Glaslyn and back, 3 m; Llanberis,
12 m; Dolbadarn and back, 4 m.
SEVENTH DAY.—Capel Curig, 10 m.; Rhaiadr y Wennol, 3½ m.; Bettws y Coed,
1½ m; Llanrwst, 5 m.
EIGHTH DAY.—Corwen, 26 m; Llangollen, 10 m. (See Valle Crucis Abbey,
Castell Dinas Brân, and Plâs Newydd.)
NINTH DAY.—Pont y Cysylltau Aqueduct, 3 m; Chirk, 3 m; (see Chirk Castle
and Brynkinalt;) Ruabon, 6; (see Wynnstay); Wrexham, 4½; Chester, 12 m.
* * * * *
*** For objects of interest, angling stations, and hotels, see first
Route.
CHAPTER I.
Preliminary Observations.—Preparations for a Tour.—Rail to
Shrewsbury.—Battlefield Church.—Chirk.—The Castle.—Brynkinalt.—Viaducts
and Aqueducts.—A Delightful Walk.—Llangollen.
“Like brethren now do Welshmen still agree
In as much love as any men alive;
The friendship there and concord that I see
I doe compare to bees in honey hive,
Which keep in swarme, and hold together still,
Yet gladly showe to stranger great good will;
A courteous kinde of love in every place
A man may finde, in simple people’s face.”
CHURCHYARD.
VARIOUS, as the features of human nature, are the sources of human
happiness. Some derive their choicest pleasure from historical accounts
of men who lived in by-gone ages, and in re-creating events that have
long since been engulphed in the abyss of time,—breaking down the barrier
of intervening years, and mingling, in idea, with those who were once
deemed the glorious of the earth, who now lie blended with its grossest
atoms, or are confounded with the purer elements. Some, parching with
the thirst of knowledge, seek to slake the fever of their minds with most
laborious research; explore the utmost regions of the globe to find a
shorter marine passage; or pierce into its depths to seek for treasures
which only exist in their heated fancies. The vast ocean is fathomed to
satisfy the ruling principle of their natures,—curiosity; and the realms
of air traversed with the same motive to insure the universally desired
result, self-gratification. While some, leaving the elements to perform
the destined changes, are willing to agree with the poet, who in the
warmth of his philanthropy exclaims:
“The proper study of mankind is man;”
and among this class of beings the author of these pages may be ranked,
although he willingly confesses nature has the power of charming him in
her most minute as in her most stupendous works, from the curious and
confined instinct of the ant and of the bee to the wonderful and
exhaustless energies of the human mind,
“That source
Whence learning, virtue, wisdom, all things flow.”
The court, the city, and the country, present an endless variety of
subjects for contemplation; and the latter being the region of delight to
those whose business confines them to the metropolis for the winter
months, the author of this volume is anxious to be thought a useful and
amusing companion to such tourists who, in pursuit of health and the
charms of nature, may wander
“In the Welsh vales ’mid mountains high.”
where the sublime and beautiful present themselves at every turn to
captivate the eye, and ruddy health colours the smiling faces of every
peasant girl and shepherd boy, from Chirk to Holyhead.
To a mind capable of estimating fine scenery, how delightful are the
hurry and bustle which usually take place on the morning of departure, in
fond expectation of realizing the anticipated pleasure of viewing those
beauties of nature the imagination has but weakly painted! The sun is
scarcely sooner up than the traveller; and, although, perhaps, it is yet
three hours to the time of departure, his anxiety preponderates over the
now slighted comforts of his bed of down, and with an agile leap he quits
his restless pillow, and hastily despatching the business of his toilet,
with his heart beating high, and his knapsack already stuffed with three
shirts, as many pairs of stockings, guide books, and as few other
necessaries as may be, in order to make his walking wardrobe as light as
possible, he prepares to take the road. If a disciple of old Izaac
Walton and Cotton, he will not fail to have his book of flies, lines,
reels, &c., and a light fly-rod to carry in his hand, and for which he is
sure to have use whenever he feels inclined for piscatory pastime on his
tour. So stocked and provided, he bids defiance to the evils of life;
and may exclaim with the poet
“Warly cares and warly men
May a’ gae tapsalteeree O!”
“The cab is at the door, Sir.”
“Very good.”
“Is everything I want put into it?”
“Yes, Sir.”
“Well, good-bye!”
“Now, my man, drive to Euston-square Station.”
“All right, Sir.” And away we went,
What a scene of bustle and confusion a metropolitan railway station
presents a few minutes before the starting of a train, and more
especially in holiday time. Men, women, and children, in every
direction, hurriedly traversing the crowded platform; luggage barrows,
with porters, rushing to and fro; newspaper venders bawling “_Times_!
_Chronicle_! _Punch_!” Cabs galloping into the yard with anxious
passengers; others, after having deposited their living burthens, slowly
quitting it; the crowd of persons pressing forward for their tickets,
jamming and jostling each other, as if the existence of each individual
depended upon his or her obtaining that necessary passport. At length
all are supplied and seated in their various carriages. Phiz! goes the
steam, and the train slowly and majestically quits the station, gathering
fresh speed in its progress, until the travellers find themselves whirled
along at the rate of thirty or forty miles an hour; station after station
appear and disappear like the lightning flash of a summer’s cloud—
“A moment bright, then lost for ever,”
and in the short space of a few hours the journey to Shrewsbury is
accomplished.
BATTLEFIELD.
Within two miles of Shrewsbury, and nearly the same distance from the
railway, upon the right of the line, the traveller will behold
Battlefield Church, built by Henry the Fourth to commemorate the
celebrated Battle of Shrewsbury, which, like that of Bosworth, has been
immortalised by the magic pen of Shakspere. Who cannot call to
remembrance the gallant and fiery Hotspur, or the future Hero of
Agincourt?—“Young Harry with his beaver on,”—and last, not least, fat
Jack Falstaff, his humourous catechism upon “Honour;” with whom
discretion was the better part of valour, notwithstanding his “long
hour’s fight by Shrewsbury clock?” Here, covered with wounds, the
ambitious Hotspur fell, and his dead body, which had been buried on the
field, was unearthed, and barbarously bruised between two millstones, and
afterwards beheaded and quartered.
SHREWSBURY.
The old town of Shrewsbury contains many objects of considerable interest
and historical association, which will afford to the antiquary or the
curious abundant gratification for the few hours he may devote to them.
Those to which the traveller should in particular direct his attention
are the Castle, the Abbey, and St. Giles’s Church; the two former were
built by the first Norman Earl of Shrewsbury, Roger de Montgomery.
The town is beautifully situated on the Severn, on a peninsula made by
the bend of the river; and, standing upon gentle eminences, it presents a
bold and commanding appearance. Upon the west side of the town,
stretching along upon the banks of the river, and over-arched with
magnificent lime trees, is a most delightful promenade—called the Quarry.
Having stayed the night in Shrewsbury, the following morning I once more
placed myself in a railway carriage for a short ride upon the line to
Chirk, at which place I had made up my mind to commence my pedestrian
tour. I think it necessary, however, to impress upon the minds of
tourists that the Llangollen Road Station (which is a mile beyond Chirk)
is unquestionably the key upon this side of the country to the very heart
of the finest scenery in Wales, and that from thence he can obtain public
conveyances which run daily to Capel Curig, Snowdon, Bala, Barmouth,
Dolgelley, and a hundred other enchanting places in the Principality.
Arriving at Chirk Station, I, like the Honourable Dick Dowlas, with my
wardrobe on my back, and a light heart, proceeded on the road to the
village. Bees hummed, birds sang, and blossoms sent forth their
fragrance, to delight the traveller as he gaily trudged “the footpath
way.” Cheerfulness was above, beneath, and around me, and in my heart.
I had not taken many paces when I was accosted by an elderly person, in a
straw hat, fustian shooting coat, knee breeches, gaiters, and shoes, he
had a stout cudgel in his hand, and knapsack more capacious than mine
strapped over his shoulders. He appeared to be about fifty-five years of
age, and being furnished like myself, it struck me that a passing
traveller might naturally take us for father and son.
Fortunately, we were pursuing the same route, and a desultory dialogue
commenced with the never-failing observation—
“A fine morning, Sir.”
“Very.”
“A great admirer of the charms of nature, I presume?”
“An enthusiastic one.”
“You’re for the Welsh vales, I suppose?”
“And mountains high,” I exclaimed, warming to my loquacious companion—
“In the Welsh vales ’mid mountains high,”
sang he, in a round-toned voice, with which I chimed in, and we were the
best friends on a sudden.
There certainly is no society so interesting as that picked up by the
tourist, who leaves with contempt the starched formalities of a great
city behind him, and walks forth unencumbered by care, to enjoy the
society of mankind in its varied and unsophisticated nature. Every
person we meet affords us information and delight; for a kindred spirit
animates almost every individual whom you may chance to encounter in
countries remarkable for beauties of scenery, and especially in a region
like North Wales, where inns of the best kind are situated at the most
convenient points, and the foot passenger is treated with as much respect
as a lord in his carriage. The landlords of inns here think that a man
may make the proper use of his legs without being a beggar; and that the
costume of a pedestrian may cover the form of a gentleman. This
philanthropic conception contributes to form that happy combination,
civil hosts and merry travellers.
There is no want of society, nor any difficulty in selecting that with
which you are best pleased; for every evening brings in fresh comers from
various quarters to the different places of rest and refreshment. The
exchange of information respecting routes, the different adventures of
the day, the peculiar feelings displayed in their recital, and
countenances lit up with pleasure, give a degree of animation to the
evening, never to be equalled in the brilliant drawing-room, the blaze of
which seems to put out the eyes of reason,—
“And men are—what they name not to themselves
And trust not to each other.”
THE VILLAGE OF CHIRK
is agreeably situated upon the northern bank of the river Ceiriog, which
divides England from Wales. The village church is dedicated to St. Mary,
and is an impropriation belonging to Valle Crucis Abbey, and contains
some monuments erected to the memories of the Chirk families. The most
interesting is that of the famous Sir Thomas Myddelton. In the
churchyard are some fine aged yew trees.
BRYNKINALT.
Taking the road upon the left of the church, we entered the charming park
of Brynkinalt, and visited one of the most picturesque seats in the
Principality. This elegant mansion, with its ivy-covered walls, is the
principal residence of the Viscount Dungannon, who is descended from
Tudor Trevor, Earl of Hereford, founder of one of the fifteen tribes of
North Wales. Valle Crucis Abbey, as well as many of the churches in the
neighbourhood, have been greatly improved at his lordship’s expense, who
is distinguished for archæological taste and research. The house was
built during the reign of James the First, from a design by Inigo Jones,
and is delightfully situated upon the brow of a hill, from which
circumstance it derives its name. The park is divided by the river
Ceiriog.
The late Duke of Wellington was maternally descended from this house.
His mother, the Countess of Mornington, who was a daughter of Arthur
Hill-Trevor, first Viscount Dungannon, spent much of her time here during
the boyhood of our illustrious hero, who frequently visited his noble
parent during the Eton holidays. There are yet living those who remember
the boyish frolics of him who was at a later period destined to act so
conspicuous a part in the world’s history.
By permission of the noble proprietor, the house and grounds are
accessible to strangers during the summer months, and the paintings by
Claude, Titian, Salvator Rosa, Carravaggio, Zucharelli, &c., are well
worthy the inspection of the connoisseur and artist.
CHIRK CASTLE.
“In Cambria’s noon of story,
Ere bright she set in glory,
The brave and great, in princely state,
All hail’d Chirk Castle walls.
With splendid arms returning,
The flaring torches burning,
’Mid armour’s clang the clarions rang,
And search’d the sounding halls.”
SONG BY F. M. DOVASTON, A.M.
Chirk Castle is delightfully situated on the spacious domain, spreading
over the summit of, what would be deemed, by a southern, a lofty
mountain, but which is here only designated a hill, projecting from the
range of the Berwyn Mountains, and is well calculated to recall the
stories of the days of old, when flourished—
“The good old rule, the simple plan,
That they should take who have the power,
And they should keep who can.”
It is built of solid stone; and the ivy, mantling over the walls, gives
them an appearance of solemnity and grandeur peculiarly interesting. It
is quadrangular, and is strengthened by five massive towers, one at each
corner, and the fifth projecting from the principal front, through which
is a lofty entrance into the court-yard, 165 feet in length, and 100 feet
in breadth, surrounded on every side by noble suites of apartments. The
picture gallery measures 100 feet in length, by twenty-two in breadth,
and contains some very excellent paintings, and several portraits of the
Myddelton family. Amongst the latter is that of Sir Thomas Myddelton,
who defended himself gallantly against the forces of Cromwell. He was
rewarded for his loyalty by Charles the Second, who granted him £30,000
for the loss he had sustained, besides many valuable presents; amongst
others, a cabinet, which is shewn in the gallery, valued at £7000, richly
ornamented with silver; in various compartments of which are paintings,
said to have been executed by Rubens. The monarch offered to elevate Sir
Thomas to the peerage, which he declined.
[Picture: Chirk Castle]
The walls of the castle are eighteen feet in thickness; but sleeping and
other apartments have been cut into them, for the accommodation of the
family.
The celebrated picture of Pistyll Rhaiadr, in the dining-room, shows that
noble waterfall tumbling into the _sea_, _where several ships are quietly
riding at anchor_. “Pistyll Rhaiadr,” _i.e._ “The Spout of the
Cataract,” is considered the largest fall in Wales. In the valley of
Mochnant, about four miles from Llanrhaiadr, the river falls over an
almost perpendicular rock, 240 feet high; thence rushing furiously under
a natural arch towards the bottom, it plunges into a deep black pool,
overhung with impervious shaggy wood.
The story of the artist’s introducing the ocean, with ships, is rather
curious. He was a foreigner, and but little acquainted with the English
language; and when he had completed the picture, one of the persons to
whom it was first shown observed, that “a few _sheep_ placed near the
foot of the fall would be a great improvement.” Misunderstanding _sheep_
for _ship_, his amazement was extreme. He, however, took the picture to
his easel, and introduced _ships_, with the necessary element to float
them! A mistake so humourous determined the purchaser to allow of no
further alteration.
The present building was completed in two years. The first stone being
laid in the year 1011, and in 1013 the castle frowned defiance to the
foe.
It was built by Roger Mortimer, Earl of Wigmore, as a stronghold to
defend him from the just vengeance he had created by the murder of the
sons of Gruffydd ab Madoc, to whom he was appointed guardian, in
conjunction with John, Earl of Warren, in the hope of inheriting their
joint estates. Mortimer was to seize upon Nanheudwy and Chirk, the
property of the youngest; and Warren upon the lands of Bromfield, Yale,
and Dinas Bran, belonging to the eldest. Travellers should not neglect
to visit this noble specimen of warlike architecture. Its picture
gallery and dungeon will, in their different styles, excite admiration.
On the foundation of the present castle anciently stood Castle Crogen;
and the territory around bore the name of Trev-y Waun, the property of
the lords of Dinas Bran, which continued in their possession up to the
death of Gruffydd ab Madoc, in the reign of Edward the First.
The view from the highlands of the park is very extensive, and commands a
prospect of seventeen different counties.
The vale beneath, which winds along the foot of the vast Berwyn
Mountains, was the scene of a desperate conflict between Henry the Second
and the Welsh. Henry having determined once more to attempt the
subjugation of Wales, and to revenge the ravages carried through the
borders by its gallant prince, Owen Gwynedd, assembled a vast army at
Oswestry. Owen, on the contrary, collected all the chieftains and their
dependents at Corwen. The two armies met on the banks of the Ceiriog.
The conflict was obstinate and bloody, and numbers of brave men perished.
In the end the Welsh retired to Corwen. Henry reached the summit of the
Berwyn, but was so distressed by dreadful rains, and by the activity and
prudence of Owen, who cut him off from all supplies, that he was obliged
to return ingloriously, with considerable loss of men and equipage. The
place is still called _Adwy’r Beddau_, or the Pass of the Graves—of the
men who were slain there.
The remains of Offa’s Dyke, the ancient boundary between England and
Wales, are still visible near the castle, and may be traced a
considerable distance through the park.
The Vale of the Ceiriog at Chirk, like that of the Dee between Chirk and
Llangollen, is distinguished by two specimens of architectural skill and
enterprise, each valley being crossed by the Ellesmere Canal and the
Shrewsbury and Chester Railway, upon long ranges of arches, at a
considerable elevation.
The aqueducts of Chirk and Pont y Cysylltau have long been the objects of
general admiration, but for elegance of design, as well as magnitude,
they must now yield the palm to the viaducts of the railway, which are,
in truth, most noble structures.
In this lovely village we put up at the Chirk Castle Arms to take
luncheon, which was served with much civility—cold meat, a cream salad,
and a capital Cheshire cheese, with the best of Shropshire ale. This
excellent inn is kept by Mr. Moses.
After proceeding about a mile and a half on the Llangollen Road, and
leaving Wynnstay, the noble mansion of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart.,
M.P., on the right, we were conducted along the banks of a beautiful
canal (the same that crosses the valley at Chirk), which was here planted
with laurel and hazel in pleasing variety on either side. On a sudden,
an opening in the foliage presented us with a splendid view of the Vale
of the Dee, with the two noble structures, the viaduct and aqueduct,
gracefully stretching from hill to hill, and the waters of the river
making their way amongst the broken rocks and embowering trees, and
rolling under their arches with that delightful sound which is only heard
in mountain scenery.
Seldom had I experienced so delightful a sensation as the present
prospect occasioned. All was so calm, so quiet, it seemed, indeed, “the
Happy Valley.” Shortly after, however, we found that no golden pleasure
is entirely free from alloy, for on turning a projection upon the road,
we were nearly stifled from a lime furnace, and what was worse, another
and another still succeeded, resembling a line of batteries blazing and
vomiting forth smoke and destruction, while upon the opposite mountain an
uniform body of iron works were firing away from their tall chimneys, and
steadily maintained the never-ceasing conflict.
At length, however, having happily passed these belligerents, my
companion led me in triumph into a little public house on the road side,
which overlooked a precipice, the _Aqueduct Tavern_, the exterior of
which promised little better accommodation than is met with in an Irish
cabin. We entered, nevertheless, and although the floor was of brick, it
was very clean, and the household utensils glittered along the walls.
“Pray, gentlemen, walk into the back parlour,” said a comely-looking,
good-natured landlady of forty-three.
We gladly accepted her invitation, and were agreeably surprised to find a
neat room, carpeted, with a sofa, and half-a-dozen hair-bottomed chairs,
and every thing rurally comfortable. The window looked upon the
aqueduct, and commanded a beautiful prospect.
Having discussed our beverage, and lighted cigars, we quitted the
comfortable little cottage, and bent our steps towards the aqueduct, to
cross by it to the opposite side of the Vale.
A cigar in the cool of the evening is delightful,—
“Glorious tobacco, that from east to west,
Cheers the tar’s labour, and the Turk-man’s rest.”
So sang the noble bard, the music of whose lyre is left to charm the race
of mankind for ages yet to come.
We soon reached the centre of the aqueduct; it extends, from hill to
hill, in length 980 feet; it is sustained by twenty piers, 115 feet in
height from the bed of the river Dee, and the span of the arches is
forty-five feet.
The length of the viaduct is 1,538 feet; its height 147 feet, the number
of arches nineteen, and the span of each arch is sixty feet.
I never felt the influence of the sublime mingled with the beautiful so
deeply as when I stood upon this wonderful work of art; wherever I turned
my eyes the scene was calculated to excite the warmest feelings of
admiration. The Dee flowing beneath, shadowed by the rich tints of the
summer foliage; the ruined bridge; the dark mountain masses upon either
side, patched with gloomy pines, intermingled with the relieving
brightness of the graceful larch. Here waves the lovely blooming
heather, there stands the blasted rock in its naked majesty, the noble
amphitheatre at the extremity of the vale, with a distant view of the
viaduct; the twittering of the birds, as they settled to repose upon the
trees around, altogether gave a charm to the evening which can only be
felt while witnessing the scene, and which exceeds the power of
description.
Having crossed the aqueduct, we proceeded by the left bank of the canal,
passing a forge, that nearly stifled us with gaseous smoke, along a
pathway made of cinders and small coal, the refuse of the adjacent
iron-smelting foundry.
Trees of every description hung over our heads, and sloped down a deep
declivity to the margin of the Dee, while on the opposite bank the
mountain frowned above us. The partial glances we obtained of the vale
through the woods, discovered scenes which the artist’s fancy might
vainly attempt to equal.
At length we reached the Bridge of Llangollen, whence the river is seen
to great advantage, tumbling over its rocky bed, and rushing beneath the
dark shelter of the over-hanging trees. The village is small, and
contains two respectable hotels, viz., the Hand, at which we stopped by
the advice of my companion, and the Royal Hotel.
We were shown into a very good parlour, and after ordering a tea and
supper dinner, my friend, somewhat exhausted by the day’s march, flung
himself upon a sofa, while I resumed my journal, and soon afterwards
retired to my bed-room, where the murmurs of the flowing Dee were
distinctly heard beneath the window.
“Here I am, then,” said I, soliloquising, as I pressed the pillow; “here
am I, at length, in the Vale of Llangollen; in the village of
Llangollen,—a spot which I have so often longed to visit!”
“Flow on, thou shining river!”
and in a few moments I sank soundly to sleep.