MAYUMBA, SOUTH AFRICA, _April 3, 1860_.
I abandoned the good staunch ship, which barely escaped leaving
her wreck upon the bar. I there found a little steamer called the
Rainbow, which formed a part of the Niger Expedition, but she was not
in running order at present. I came down with the Retriever, a small
steamer acting as tender for the old one I had left, and we proceeded
to the island of Fernando Po, about forty miles from the main land,
after getting out of the Gulf of Guinea. The island is fertile, with
high mountainous country, and is very gratifying to the eye after
the monotonous scenery already passed through. It is occupied by a
different race of negroes from those of the African coast, called
Boobies, and whose habits and manner are milder and more harmless. They
daub their bodies, faces, and wool with red clay, and one of their
belles squatted on the ground before a small mirror, adorning herself,
her only garment being a strip of a handkerchief, would certainly be
considered a droll sight in a civilized country. They differ from all
the negro races of the African coast, whose reputation for chastity is
not remarkable. The crime of adultery is punished there with the loss
of the right arm, and in some cases is enforced.
Tornadoes are not infrequent in the Gulf of Guinea. We experienced one
on our way down from Bonny. I was awakened past midnight by terrific
peals of thunder and forked lightning, the howling of the winds, and
the cry of officers upon deck. Looking out, I perceived amid the vivid
flashes of lightning, the naked stalwart figures of the Kroomen, or
African sailors. I could only compare the reality of what occurred
with the faint efforts of some dark and wild demoniacal scene upon the
stage. Our ship did her duty, and we came out safe.
On the African coast one sees many strange phenomena. One evening the
whole sea seemed a sheet of phosphorescent brightness, lighting up
the night, so that one could almost read. The crest of the waves was
tinged with silvery light, and the vessel seemed ploughing through
quicksilver. On another occasion, one hundred miles from land, the
fine dust and reddish sand covered the deck, the wind bringing these
particles from the parched and burning south.
The Spaniards are in possession of the island of Fernando Po, for the
second time, having once abandoned it. They are now attempting the
re-occupation of the country. The insidious fever is making sad work,
and a large part of the colonists have already died. The Governor’s
family is on board of a war vessel, and will go back to Spain. It is
a singular fact that white females cannot live there. The only lady
is the wife of the English Consul, who suffers much from ill health.
Quinine is the most valuable article here as an antidote and cure
for fever. One of our commanders paid ninety dollars for twenty-nine
ounces. When I arrived at Fernando Po, I had reached the terminus of
communication by English steamers, and unless I could fall in with
some man-of-war, I must retrace my steps. I fortunately found the
United States war steamer Mystic, Capt. Leroy, whose brother I had
made voyages with in California and Oregon, and his first Lieutenant,
Haxton, whom I had known intimately years since. When we met at the
English Consul’s house, they expressed their great surprise at meeting
one whom they had spoken of recently, in this barbarous part of the
world. My desire being to continue down to St. Paul de Loando, and all
along the cruising ground of the American squadron, Capt. Leroy kindly
offered me the half of his cabin.
We proceeded to Princess Island, one of the group of several, including
Fernando Po, which are of volcanic origin. There we made a connexion
with the sloop-of-war Portsmouth, to put on board three officers
recently from the United States by the war steamer Mohican.
We paid Capt. Calhoun and his ship and officers a visit. They are bound
to Madeira, to communicate with the flag officer, Commodore Inman of
the Constellation. A day spent in taking in wood and water, and getting
supplies of chickens, oranges, limes, bananas, alligator pears, and
other fruits, and looking at and admiring the freaks of nature in the
formation of peaks, pyramids, domes, cones, and every conceivable
feature in scenery, with the richest and most exuberant growth of
tropical forests and fruits, we then left for this point, to meet the
United States steamer Sumpter, and transfer the correspondence for the
vessels on the station below. The discipline and order on board of the
Mystic are of a high character, perfect unity and good feeling existing
between officers and men, which is so desirable, especially on stations
so much exposed and so remote. The Sabbath is strictly observed, with
religious exercises. The health of those on board of the ship was
remarkably good, which is much to say on this fiery coast, with upwards
of one hundred and fifty men.
We have just spoken the British war vessel Archer. This is the fourth
English ship cruising for slavers that we have met on the coast thus
far. We expect soon to see the Sumpter, when I shall be transferred to
her, to proceed down to the Congo River--a great point for the shipping
of slaves, and from thence by a schooner to the Portuguese city of St.
Paul de Loanda, in latitude eight deg. south. It is the most important
settlement of the coast south of Sierra Leone.
We have now crossed the equator, and proceed south. You can imagine the
heat, as this is the height of summer. Awnings, umbrellas, fruits, and
refreshing drinks, would at times be abandoned willingly for a pound
of ice. The African station is the hardest and most wearing upon the
constitution of our naval officers. It is withering and weakening, and
were it not that they are almost constantly on shipboard it would make
sad work with them. Those of the men who are imprudent enough to sleep
ashore and expose themselves, suffer the penalty of fever. The crew
never have the privilege granted in these latitudes, but occasionally a
sailor on shore duty gets astray, and has to suffer the consequences.
During a two years’ cruise, if a vessel goes to Saint Helena or
Madeira, then the captain avails himself of these healthy points to
give his men, in rotation, such hours of liberty as may be deemed
prudent.
The British steamer Pluto captured, not long since, the American bark
Orion, with seven hundred and fifteen slaves on board, composed of men,
women, and children; one hundred and fifty-two had died on the passage,
as she started with eight hundred and seventy-one. She was taken to St.
Helena, and condemned--the negroes apprenticed as usual. The officers
having hauled down their colors and thrown their papers overboard,
would have escaped, but this steamer went in pursuit and secured the
officers, and sent them to the United States; whether they will be
convicted or not, remains to be seen.