HAMBURG, GERMANY, _Nov. 5, 1858_.
In the extreme north of Germany lies the grand duchy of Mecklenberg,
a country less visited by travellers than most other parts of the
Vaterland, whose institutions are peculiar to itself, and which is not
included in the Zollverein, or Tariff Union. As it was the last of
the German States I had not seen, I was desirous of visiting it. The
lines of railroad from Frankfort-on-the-Oder, where I last wrote you,
conveyed me to Schwerin, the capital of the Duchy.
It has a population of twenty thousand, and can boast of one of the
finest schloss, or palaces in Deutschland. Wonders never cease. I was
astonished to find this new Gothic edifice, which stands upon a small
island, and upon which some millions have been expended, and could only
wonder how in the nineteenth century the potentate of a small territory
could gather together and expend such sums in extravagant construction.
The saloons, halls, and dining-rooms, as well as bed-chambers, are
luxuriously finished and furnished in modern style. A spiral staircase
from the first floor to the upper apartments is of black marble, and
the railing of bronze gold gilt. The church, or chapel, is richly
decorated, and the windows are of stained glass. Several sentinels
were under arms; permission was granted, for a fee, to inspect the
whole premises, with the hot-houses, and obtain a fine view over the
beautiful lake, reminding one of the sheets of water in the western
part of our state.
The peasants are still attached to the soil, without the privilege of
obtaining title for lands. The landholders own large estates, and
are wealthy. The duties upon importations are light. This class of
citizens can obtain at small cost all articles they require. The crown
is possessed of an immense domain, which brings in large revenues,
enabling the grand-ducal family to expend large sums without extorting
from the land proprietors; but inquiry may be made, “who pays?” the
answer naturally is, “the labor of the peasant.” Time will make a
change. The downtrod workman, if he can raise the means, will find his
way to America, and they will have to introduce hired cultivators from
the neighboring countries, or abandon the system.
Rostock and Weimar are their sea-ports on the Baltic; the former has a
population of twenty thousand, and is quite noted for its shipbuilding.
I found many vessels lying in ordinary for want of employment, growing
out of the commercial crisis, and but few on the stocks.
Mecklenberg not being a manufacturing state, and the wealthy land
proprietors not being able to loan on home securities, turned their
attention to interest in shipbuilding, and are groaning over their
losses.
A horticultural, agricultural, and mechanical exhibition was being
held, which was of interest. The farm implements were of a heavy
character, and capable of much improvement. As in most German towns,
the walks and promenades have received much attention. The old
fortifications and ramparts have been planted with shade trees and
flowers, and afford a delightful stroll for the inhabitants.
The Blucher square, or place, contains the bronze monument erected
to the memory of the marshal, celebrated at Waterloo, who was born
in Rostock, in 1743. The parks, grounds, and lakes in and about
Schwerin are as lovely as could be desired; but the residence city,
notwithstanding its arsenal, port, and other public buildings, has the
air of a forced growth.
An hour’s ride by railroad brought me to this great commercial, free
trade city, with its population of one hundred and sixty-five thousand.
The great fire of 1842, which burnt over seventy-one streets and
squares, and destroyed nearly two thousand houses, was the cause of
making the new city as beautiful as it now is, and one sees no traces
of the great conflagration; but, on the contrary magnificent rows of
tall, solidly constructed houses, public buildings, churches, exchange,
immense hotels, of American internal arrangements, a number of which
are situated upon the Alster Basin--a fine sheet of water, with broad
avenues and sidewalks surrounding it. The streets of the old city are
narrow, and paved with round cobble stones, dirty and dreary, making
the contrast more striking. Almost continuous walks upon the site of
the old walls surround the city, and are planted with shade trees and
shrubbery. The view of the harbor and the Elbe, with its shipping, and
the forests of masts, obtained from a height, is truly grand.
Hamburg being strictly a commercial city, and divested of the military
parade, titles, orders, and the pomp of a court of monarchical cities,
strikes an American coming from other parts of the continent, as being
more like a Republican metropolis. The peculiar costume of the women
water-carriers would be exceptional. Altona, in Holstein, belonging to
Denmark, has almost grown into the city.
The gates are closed at night, and toll must be paid by every person
passing, according to the lateness of the hour. The currency of the
city is its peculiar kind--_shilling, and mark Banco_; the former
worth _two cents, and sixteen for mark_. The traveller in Germany,
in passing from one frontier to another, must dispose of the small coin
of the country, which may be of no value after a few hours’ ride by the
railway. A gentleman bound for Russia, whom I lately met in the cars,
wished to purchase some fruit for his wife. He was on his way from
Paris, did not speak German, and pulled out a handful of coin which he
had received in change along the road, none of which would pass. The
train was almost moving, and he was giving up in despair, when I came
to the rescue. Mecklenberg, Denmark, and even Bremen change, is of
little value here, although only separated by the frontier. A story is
told of a Frenchman, who, starting on a tour through Germany and Italy,
as an experiment put a twenty-franc gold piece in his vest pocket,
changing the same into the currency of each country as he passed, and
on his return found the entire sum had gone into the hands of the
money-changers.