MARIENBAD, BOHEMIA, _August 29, 1858_.
Karlsbad lies thirteen hundred and seventy feet above the level of the
sea, in a deep narrow valley between steep projecting granite rocks and
hills, upon the margin of a little serpentine stream, and from the many
points of look-out reached by circuitous paths, gives enchanting views
and panoramas. Upon one of the ragged jutting points stands a bronze
deer, indicating the Hirschsprung. As the story goes, the discoverer
of the Sprudel, or hot bubbling spring, which throws out forty-five
buckets of water per minute, was the Emperor Karl the Fourth, in the
year 1379, while in pursuit of a deer, which leaped over the precipice,
pursued by the dogs, and when found was in a cooked condition in the
boiling element.
The town has about three thousand inhabitants, and the Kurliste calls
for about four thousand visitors during the season. What is called the
wiese, or meadow, is formed of two long rows of houses built against
the rocks fronting on the little stream Tepel, spanned by bridges,
promenades bordered with shade trees, a quantity of little shops
filled with wares and ornaments of every variety, offering a lounge
for the ladies. Both sexes sit in the open air and take coffee and
refreshments, and the parties are more thrown together, making it more
like a family circle than in many other bathing places.
The different springs are so arranged with galleries as to protect
from the sun and rainy weather. The walks and ascents are of the most
wild and romantic character. Savage scenery and deep woods of thick
forest trees, affording exercise and protecting from heat, abound.
Altogether the natural attractions are almost unsurpassed on the
continent. Baden-Baden and Karlsbad are two of the watering-places of
Europe, where within a few minutes’ time one may escape the noise
and excitement of the multitude, and find himself solitary and alone,
admiring the works of nature.
The heat of the spring is 165° Fahrenheit. Objects encrusted with the
deposit of this water are polished and prepared in different forms, the
colors resembling the lava of Vesuvius, and are quite an article of
commerce. Here is seen the crucifix upon Kreuz Berg. Now one stumbles
upon a monument to the memory of a benefactor who has built a new
walk, or extended balconies or iron railings; then one imagines, in a
narrow defile in the rocks, he is entering a graveyard, with slabs to
the memory of the deceased, but on reading the engravings in different
languages, he finds they are tributes and songs of praise from invalids
to the waters for restored health.
After a halt of a few days at this agreeable place, I proceeded to
Marienbad. It is also a lovely spot, with newer arrangements than
Karlsbad, better bath houses, and larger and better hotels. It lies one
thousand nine hundred and thirty-two feet above the level of the North
Sea, and contains only about one hundred and twenty private houses.
Nearly six hundred thousand jugs of this water are sent out, and it
finds its way to all parts of Europe. The entire spring grounds form an
English park, with trout brooks running through, and are particularly
adapted for those who wish to escape the bustle of the world to take
care of their health while here in this quiet valley surrounded by
hills and pleasant walks. Nature and art together offer everything for
the recovery of the lost blessing.
The sources here, as well as at Karlsbad, are various, and the springs
are built over. The Krews Brunnen has a colonnade of seventy-two Ionic
columns, with a long hall connecting for bad weather. Before the same
is the promenade, under the shade of lofty trees, with music morning
and evening. Every guest has his vari-colored Bohemian glass, and takes
his turn at the fountain of health, at intervals of a quarter of an
hour, with a walk in the meantime.
A bright Sunday morning at Karlsbad announced the long expected birth
of an heir to the Hapsburg dynasty. The bulletins gave the information
that it was a crown prince, and accordingly a hundred and one guns were
fired, all the church bells were rung, a Te Deum was performed, and the
officers military and civil, with their trappings and orders, paraded
through the streets much to the edification of the peasants, in their
picturesque costumes, who were attracted to the town by the holiday.
At night the hills were illuminated with the lights representing the
double-headed eagle, with the letters F. J., a twinkling star, and E.,
signifying Francis Joseph and Elizabeth.
The great achievement of the submarine telegraph strikes all with
amazement, and the masses begin to comprehend that America is
considerable of a country. The peasants have heard that grain in our
country is sowed, harvested, threshed, and cleaned by machines, instead
of manual labor, and the inquiry is, how is it possible?
Our failure in commercial affairs, through extended enterprise,
improvements, and fast living, made Europe feel our importance, and
from which it still suffers. We retrenched, stopped buying goods, and
economized in public and private outlays, which cannot be done here
with their standing armies and expensive court charges; and now I
remark our banks are loaded down with specie, new gold discoveries are
added to the stock, and only the movement of commerce is needed to put
the wheels again in motion.
What would our farmers say if every head of cattle sold, paid a tax
of two dollars for slaughtering privilege, and smaller animals in
proportion; and every sale of houses and land from five to ten per
cent. to the crown.
Hotelkeepers and owners of private houses, for neglect in announcing to
the police the harboring a friend or stranger over night, have to pay
from five to ten guilders.