BADEN, AUSTRIA, _July 28, 1858_.
Our steamer left Odessa at six P. M., and the next morning at
sunrise we found ourselves at the entrance of one of the mouths of the
Danube, with Sulina, the Turkish port, at our left, a small ill-built
wooden town, its position reminding me of the Balize at the mouth of
the Mississippi, with low banks and marshy soil, covered with reeds
and rank vegetation. Large numbers of vessels lie straggling along the
wooden wharves, waiting for a favorable wind, and tug boats to tow them
up to their destined ports for cargoes of grain.
We had but few passengers; among the number was a Georgian Princess,
the grand-daughter of the last King, whom I had met with her husband, a
Russian colonel, in their own country. This lady is the sister of the
Princesses taken captive by Schamyl, who were ransomed by the Russian
government, as mentioned in a former letter. The meeting was the
more agreeable, because quite unexpected. The society of a young and
beautiful Georgian woman, with all the simplicity and amiability of the
lady, speaking the English and French language fluently, as well as her
husband, a man of large experience in Circassia, was calculated to make
a long trip less irksome than it would otherwise have been.
At four P. M. we arrived at Galatz, in Moldavia, a city of
some forty thousand inhabitants, where we changed steamers, remaining
there thirty-six hours, awaiting the arrival of the passengers from
Constantinople.
A larger boat was now furnished, constructed after the manner of our
American river boats, with a saloon on the main deck, abaft the wheels,
an upper promenade deck, and a number of cabins upon the forward deck.
Our numbers being considerably augmented, the heat was oppressive, and
mosquitoes brought back reminiscences of the Alabama and Apalachicola
in the spring time.
We landed at Giurgevo, in Wallachia, a small town, the port of
Bucharest. Both Galatz and the place named lie upon the river bank,
but the principal parts are upon bluffs above. Galatz has a mixed
population of all races. As the Principalities are subject to Turkey,
the coin of that country is in use, as well as that of all the
neighboring states, and the numbers of money-changers installed at
short intervals upon the sidewalks, present a curious spectacle.
The language has much of the old Roman in its composition, and one is
struck with the names of streets and persons upon signboards bearing
analogy to the Italian. The dresses of the peasants also struck me as
resembling those worn in Italy. The original inhabitants were evidently
Romans. Their sympathies are, however, more Russian, as they profess
most generally the Greek faith.
The river is quite serpentine in its course, and the scenery as
we advanced became more varied, groups of forest trees and better
cultivation being seen. Turkish villages lie along the left banks with
their mosques and minarets, and Wallachian and Moldavian villages on
the right.
We passed Silistria, celebrated for its defence by the Turks and defeat
of the Russians with a loss of twelve thousand men; landed and received
passengers at Mikopol, and at the strongly fortified town of Widdin,
and arrived at the Eisernen Thor, or Iron Gate, where the low stage of
water obliged the landing of passengers, and we took wagons for the
distance of a few miles and found a small steamer of light draught of
water, which conveyed us through the pass between high mountains of
the boldest and most romantic scenery, a miniature Switzerland, to the
town of Orsova, the frontier line of Hungary. Here all the luggage was
discharged and carried to the Austrian Custom House for examination.
Tobacco, sealed letters, and playing cards were handled without mercy,
and some of the passengers had to pay heavily.
We made a halt at Belgrade, the last point in Turkey, and at Semlen
near the mouth of the Save. The Hungarian shores were alive with
cattle, horses, and sheep grazing.
At Widdin we took on board its Governor, Ismet Pacha, and suite.
I found him an intelligent and liberal-minded man. Our sleeping
apartments being contiguous we had frequent interviews, and I found he
entertained a high opinion of American character and enterprise. He has
occupied many important positions, and tells me he has always protected
the Christians.
An unpleasant affair has just occurred at Belgrade in the attack on
the English consul by a Turkish soldier; he escaped without serious
injury. This, however, with the recent massacre at Jiddah, and the
murder of the Greeks and attack of the Christians in Candia, have
produced a painful impression throughout Europe.
The voyage up the Danube, although offering much of interest, is rather
monotonous, occupying seven days from Odessa to Pesth, in Hungary,
where the railroad can be taken for Vienna. The distance probably does
not equal that from New Orleans to Louisville, which occupies less
time, and our steamers afford better accommodations to passengers at
one-third the cost.
The Danube Steamship Company have one hundred and five steamers in
all, besides barges for towing. The capital employed is very large.
Last year, with the outlays for wharves, new boats, etc., they were
deficient over a million of guilders. With the further extension of the
railways, and the probable free navigation for all flags, the success
formerly obtained is questionable.
I spent a couple of days in the capital city of Hungary, which I
formerly described to you. It is a fine, well-built, and well-paved
city, offering many objects of attraction. Near Orsova the spot was
pointed out to us where the crown of Hungary, secreted as it is said by
Kossuth, was discovered. A small chapel is erected on the spot.
From Pesth I took the railroad to this celebrated Austrian
watering-place. It is abundantly supplied with hot and cold sulphur
baths, and swimming schools for ladies and gentlemen. A most charming,
romantic, and picturesque country lies about it. The town has a
population of four thousand, and there is about an equal number of
guests. It is only an hour’s ride by rail from Vienna, and consequently
much frequented. The bath houses are well built structures, with
comfortable quarters for families or private individuals; the ladies
and gentlemen have separate entrances and dressing rooms, but generally
bathe together in deep square baths, surrounded by a gallery for the
use of friends or spectators. They use bathing dresses, which are
numbered. It is rather startling at first when one enters, to find a
party of gentlemen and ladies walking about, their heads only above
water, and engaged in cheerful conversation. Private baths may be
obtained, but the masses prefer passing the hour in society, talking
over the affairs of the day and making arrangements for excursions and
dinner parties.