TAGANROG, RUSSIA, _June 28, 1858_.
From Staverpool I had five hundred wersts to travel in order to strike
the waters of the river Don, at Rastoff, a town which thrives through
the increasing grain trade. From thence I came in a tug steamer to this
city, on the head waters of the Sea of Azoff.
The scenery on the route is little varied, consisting of vast steppes,
or plains, with seldom any timber to be seen, and Cossack villages
every twenty wersts and upwards. Immense droves of cattle, sheep,
goats, and horses are frequently observed grazing, and cultivation
is somewhat better and more general than in the country I had passed
through before.
The natural roads over the prairies are easy for horses and for
travellers, but quite monotonous. Posting is less difficult, and less
dangerous, from the attacks of freebooters, being out of the district
of the Circassians, but it is almost as difficult to obtain supplies on
the road.
When horses were obtainable, we kept on until late at night, as my
companion assured me there was no danger. He was familiar with the
roads, and, notwithstanding others lay by through apprehension, and
postmasters would not furnish horses after dark, he said at the point
where we were, the Circassians could not seize us, and get across the
line of sentinels by daylight; besides which, at this season they had
their engagements, and can also be traced through the grass. As I was
anxious to get on to catch the weekly steamer, I allowed myself to
be convinced, and can now rejoice at being out of the reach of the
Abassiens, Mingraliens, Georgians, Circassians, and Cossacks.
A few evenings since, at one of the rude stations where we passed the
night, a pleasing rencontre for my friend was the meeting of a general
en route for his post on the shores of the Caspian. They had not met
since they were cadets together, some fifteen years before. He was
provided with some choice sherry and some old Havanas, which gave
additional zest to an evening in a barbarous country.
This pretty, well-built town, occupied in part by Greeks, who have made
fortunes in the grain trade, was sadly mutilated by the fleets of the
allies. Many of the ruined houses and magazines have been restored. I
counted thirteen cannon shot in the front of the house of an eccentric
individual, who had made his repairs, and stuccoed the balls, mosaic
like, in the front. The lower part of the city, under the bluff, was
entirely destroyed, and the upper part, on the hill, badly damaged.
There are some two hundred vessels, of different nations, in the
roadstead, waiting for cargoes of flint wheat, or the lighters loaded
with the ordinary kinds, brought from Rastoff, or higher up in the
Don. Large quantities are transported from the river Wolga to the
Don, and floated down. The fisheries of the river are also important,
and quantities of caviar are made from the eggs of the sturgeon, for
exportation. The hide, wool, and tallow traffic is also considerable.
A monument to the Emperor Alexander, who died here after his visit to
the Crimea, is erected upon the public square. The so-called palace,
a large mansion house, where he died, is visited generally by Russian
travellers. The room he died in has an altar in it, and the priest who
was with him in his last hours still lives, and presides on festive
occasions. I noticed here, also, that a few stray shots of the enemy
had done their work.
I found one village near Rastoff almost exclusively occupied by
Armenians. Their churches are handsome edifices, and will compare
favorably with the Russian churches for beauty of architecture, and
the towers and cupolas painted white, with green roofs, have a pretty
effect. The interior decorations are not unlike the Russian Greek
churches, which, in paintings, images, crucifixes, lamps, and candles,
are more overloaded than the Latin Catholics.
The Armenians are generally a money-getting race, and surpass the Jews
in financiering.
Among the different races which I have found in this country, the
Kalmucks must not be forgotten. They remind me of the Chinese as far as
traits of feature are concerned. They are mostly employed as shepherds.
Their huts are made of a sort of felt, under which husband, wife, and
children are grouped together. They use for covering the skins of
sheep, and live upon black bread and loppered milk. They kill no animal
for food, it being contrary to religious prejudice; but when one dies,
I notice the great iron pot is partly filled with water, and placed
over the fire in the middle of the tent. The intestines of the beast
are boiled with slices of pressed common tea, which comes overland in
the shape of cakes, and a soup is prepared for the whole family.
Russia comprises such an infinity of races, some half-civilized,
and some barbarian, that it is not surprising, notwithstanding the
upper classes are educated, and have the surface, or gloss, of high
civilization, that one often discovers the traces of barbarism when
least expected. They are hospitable in general, and I have received
many civilities at their hands; but nevertheless the proverb, “Scratch
the Russian a little, and under the surface you find the Tartar,” in
many instances is not incorrect. They are trying to improve their
condition, but what can be done by a people who rely upon the will of
one man, whose word is law?
The routine of Bureaucracy is fearful. The laws are a mass of ukases
issued by the different emperors, and many remain dead letters. For
instance the Emperor Nicholas, hearing of a great conflagration
from the use of lucifer matches, issued an edict prohibiting their
introduction, which does not prevent the general use of them; still the
ukase is not countermanded. The abuses of officials are also startling.
The government was robbed to a great extent during the war by persons
who are now living in splendor. Many were detected who had sent their
ill-gotten gains to the bank on interest; these sums were confiscated.
The crown has now reduced the rate of interest from four to three
per cent. on bank deposits, hoping to induce the people to invest in
railroads, but they say they would rather have three per cent. certain
than risk their money in new undertakings. There is no spirit of public
enterprise among the people, and if there was, every possible obstacle
would be thrown in the way by the officers and employees of the
government.
The circulation is mostly the Government Bank paper, which is
prohibited from coming in if once taken out, and when one leaves the
country, to buy gold and silver he must pay a handsome advance, as both
of the precious metals bear a premium, and the bank can only be called
upon for small sums. The natural consequence of such a state of things
in any country is advanced prices for all articles of consumption.
If the last emperor had employed one half the vast sums expended in
keeping up a gigantic military force, in improvements to the roads and
rivers, and in railways, he would have been a great benefactor to his
people.
Much is hoped and expected from the present emperor, who is willing to
be guided and advised, while Nicholas was obstinate, and his will was
law. I find more liberty of speech and action among the people now than
when I first visited Russia, ten years ago, when every one felt as if
his neighbor was a spy.