TRIPOLI, COAST OF BARBARY, AFRICA, _April 1, 1858_.
The land route from Tunis is attended with so much fatigue and risk,
that I took the steamer for Malta, and embarked for this port, where
we arrived in the midst of a violent norther, the waves dashing
violently among the breakers, and landed, much to the satisfaction of
all concerned; particularly, two Turkish Beys, with their harems, from
Constantinople, who were my fellow passengers. The women were under
lock and key, but notwithstanding the sea-sickness of their liege
lords, as well as the eunuchs, I noticed the jealous glances cast
outside of their berths from time to time.
There are two small hotels at Tunis, but here, none; and as I
had letters for our Consul, Mr. Gaines, I accepted his Virginian
hospitality. This territory, which extends to the Egyptian frontier,
is under Turkish rule, and the now presiding Pacha is Osmand Bey, a
worthy old gentleman, to whom I was presented, and with whom I had a
long chat through his interpreter. Coffee, sherbet, and confectionery
were served, and long pipes, or chibouks, of jessamine wood, with
amber mouth-pieces encircled in diamonds, gave the Latakia tobacco
a good relish. As strangers are seldom seen here, the communication
being rare, it is rather gratifying to resident consuls and others, to
extend facilities. I am the first native American visitor, the consul
tells me, since his residence here of nine years. An English government
steamer brought down a gentleman whose friends reside here, and who has
done service in the Crimea, and is now appointed consul in Russia. His
friends, being mine, have given me an opportunity of joining in the
festivities and recreations offered to the officers. Horses have been
put at our disposition for social and shooting parties in the country.
Dinners and evening parties have been constant, and the time passed
pleasantly. Consuls here, as well as at Tunis, wear the uniform and cap
with gold band, which is much respected by the natives.
As our dragoman goes round the city with his silver-headed massive
stick, it is quite amusing to hear the sergeant present arms in Turkish
as the sentinels are passed. There are some four thousand Turkish
troops here from Constantinople. The population is chiefly Arab, with
a sprinkling of Jews and Maltese. The city contains fifteen thousand
inhabitants; it is much cleaner than Tunis, and is in a healthier
position, and warmer, being further south and nearer the desert. The
country between the sea and the sandy waste is very picturesque; it is
mostly cultivated by means of irrigation, as the Persian wheels, driven
by cattle, are seen in all directions, attached to the wells.
The date groves in all quarters, interspersed with olive, fig, and
almond, give it an oriental appearance. The scenery, as well as the
costume and habits of the people, is African. Every variety of color
may be seen, the ground being contiguous to the races of the Sahara and
the starting point for Timbuctoo. The weekly fairs upon the beach are
most primitive. Sheep, goats, and camels are driven in and butchered
upon the sand. You see the Arabs squatted, bare-footed, or in red
and yellow sandals, around piles of skins, fruits, vegetables, or
grain; tinkers, in little date-leaved tents, repairing copper cooking
utensils; itinerant barbers plying their avocations; donkeys loaded
with wood and charcoal; squalid figures, black, brown, and yellow,
cooking a scanty meal of pumpkin, red pepper, and oil; others indulging
in the national and savoury repast of kouskous;--and a thousand other
sights and eccentricities that we, as civilized beings, can scarcely
dream of.
The previous war steamer that was down here brought the English Vice
Consul, and among the guests two English ladies. The Pasha gave a
review of the troops and a picnic in the country. He drove one of the
ladies in his own carriage, followed by a cavalcade--so unusual a thing
for a Musselman, that the Arab women thought he had taken a new wife,
and commenced chanting a merry song, much to the lady’s annoyance.
A splendid dinner was given to the officers, with abundance of wine,
contrary to the usage of Musselmans, but in accordance with the
Pasha’s notions of propriety; and when the lady left he presented her
a beautiful pony. He is more European in his conduct than Turkish, and
has set an example for others in having only one wife.
Visiting a country-seat a few days since, I noticed upon an observatory
overlooking the seat the wooden figure of a hand nailed up, a custom,
I presume, in accordance with that of more civilized countries, where
horseshoes are fastened over the doors, to keep off the witches. I
asked if it was to keep off the evil eye, and the reply was that the
carpenter would not continue his work until it was fastened there. We
frequently see the impressions of hands, in red and black marks, upon
the buildings; such is the superstition of the natives.
The birthday of Mahomet will soon take place, when it will be unsafe
for Jew or Gentile to appear in the streets. For several days before
the festival the Marabouts or holy men commence eating Indian hemp
seed, which produces delirium; they then rush out, shaking their
heads and bodies violently, followed by men and women chanting and
shrieking. They then perform miracles by swallowing knives, nails,
glass, and putting red hot shovels to their tongues, and sometimes
their fanaticism induces them to maltreat or tear to pieces Jews
and Gentiles; and the Pacha warns Consuls to keep their protégés or
servants at home, as he cannot be responsible for them.
We have had some excellent gun practice from the English gun boat
Vigilant, now in port, in honor of the Pacha. The distance fired was
nearly half a mile, with two sixty-eight pounders; she carries also
two thirty-two pounders. The target was a rock in the roadstead,
painted white. Rounds of shot, shell, and grape, were fired with much
precision. After the conclusion, and the partaking of a collation, the
captain carried us in his gig to examine the effect, and we found chain
shot and broken shell.
I am invited by the commander of this beautiful screw steamer, of six
hundred and forty tons, to occupy a part of his cabin. Although I had
paid my passage on board the steamer which has already departed, my
friends induced me to stay a few days longer and accept the invitation.
The old Pasha was to have been on board, but a plea of indisposition
excused him. Several consuls and vice-consuls were among our number.
On another occasion we had a trial of firing at a floating target,
which in this case was a barrel sent adrift, with a couple of
sixty-eight pound shot suspended to keep it steady, and an old flag
staff stuck in the bung. We then described a circle of a half mile, and
fired while in motion; the shot told remarkably as line shots, and the
surface of the water sometimes looked like the spouting of whales. The
English have now one hundred and thirty, large and small, of this class
of steamers or gunboats. The Vigilant carries ninety men, and has an
engine of two hundred horse power, with a screw twelve feet diameter;
the boilers and machinery are below water mark; she draws twelve feet
of water, and is admirably calculated for destruction.
Within the harbor of Malta, and encircled by the strong walls of these
immense and world-wide renowned fortifications, lay the flag ship and
part of the squadron of Admiral Lyons. Having once made a quarantine
of twenty-one days there, coming from Egypt, which quarantine is
fortunately abandoned now, besides spending ten days in sight seeing,
nothing stuck me as new.