BATHS OF EMS, DUCHY OF NASSAU, _July 14, 1857_.
About the time I left Luzerne, in Switzerland, the sympathies and
anxieties of the public were highly excited by the report of fire and
explosion in the railroad tunnel, which is to intersect that city with
Basle. Twelve persons, who had volunteered in the rescue of upwards
of forty workmen who were thus suddenly cut off, had perished in the
attempt. When our passengers took the diligence to cross the mountain,
in the depths of which the accident occurred, three of our number took
a short cut across, hoping to obtain some information of the sufferers.
It was melancholy to reflect that so many human beings were probably
suffering the agonies of death under our very feet, without our being
able to relieve them. I learned subsequently that thirty-three corpses
had been taken out and interred. A horse was found slaughtered, but not
eaten.
The Swiss cars are constructed after our American model; passengers see
the scenery of the country better from them than from the coach cars
generally in use in Europe.
A railway ride of three and a half hours, by express train from Basle,
brings one to Baden-Baden, upon the west slope of the Black Forest, in
one of the most beautiful valleys of Germany.
A few days’ sojourn, and I proceeded to Homburg, which is much
frequented; but neither that place nor Baden-Baden was as full as I
found them last year.
At Wiesbaden, however, I found larger multitudes than I had ever met
there on my former visits. This I attribute in part to the facilities
for play, newly granted by the Bank.
Having detailed to you, on former occasions, the baths, qualities and
uses of the waters, amusements and excursions, it will be needless to
go into repetition.
In addition to the plebeian movement, it would seem that royalty has
turned out in every direction. The King of Bavaria and ex-Empress of
Russia were at Baden-Baden; the Emperor and Empress of Russia are at
Kissengen; the Grand Duchess Constantine and her suite live opposite to
me, occupying the entire building called the Panorama, belonging to the
Ducal Kurhaus, where I am lodging. Having seen all these imperial and
royal personages in their own territories, my curiosity is not excited;
but it is a curious spectacle for an American to witness the sycophancy
and idolatry of the masses for crowned heads; and one naturally asks
himself, “Are such people capable of enjoying any other institutions
than those they have been educated to adore?”
Those who remain at Ems, do so ostensibly for health; and no waters
in Europe are so valuable for bronchial diseases, incipient pulmonary
disease, nervous complaints, and many other difficulties; the fair sex
predominate.
The Russians have the privilege of travelling since the treaty of
peace; the presence of the wife of the Grand Admiral Constantine has
brought large numbers here. The other evening, on the occasion of her
birthday, the Duke of Nassau gave a grand celebration. In the middle
of the little river Lahn, which flows through the valley, opposite
the quarters of the Grand Duchess of Constantine was an illuminated
barge, with thirty musicians. The Swiss Cottage Restaurant, upon the
hill-side, was brilliantly lighted; and on the opposite mountain-ridge
was a display of Bengal lights, and other fireworks, which produced a
pretty effect, much to the edification of visitors and the peasantry,
who seemed to enjoy it highly. Last night a ball was given by this lady
in the honor of the Russians.
One is elbowed on all sides by Dukes, Duchesses, Counts, Countesses,
Barons, and Baronesses, and the whole aristocratic race.
The German aristocracy are easy and approachable. You find that you
have made the acquaintance of your neighbor; cards are exchanged;
you see, perhaps, the arms and title of a Count, Baron, or some high
functionary or dignitary, in return for which you give him a plain
American address, without a handle to the name.
The demoralizing and destructive practice of open gambling is only
tolerated in the German duchies, and is a source of great revenue
to their rulers. In France it is prohibited: Prussia has withheld
the grant at her watering places: in Belgium it only exists at Spa:
Sardinia has stopped it at Aix les Bains. But all the efforts of
the great princes have not yet succeeded in destroying the system
established at Baden-Baden, Homburg, Wiesbaden, and Ems.
Next month I go to Paris, and expect to be in the United States in
September.
1858.