ZURICH, _Aug. 16, 1856_.
Leaving the beautiful lake of Como, with its lovely villas, cultivated
gardens, vineyards, and picturesque views, I started for Switzerland,
via the lake of Lugano.
The Austrian frontier of Lombardy is soon reached, and one finds
himself in the Canton of Ticino. Upon crossing the bridge of Chiaso
into Swiss territory, one soon discovers the effect of free government
and liberal principles in the public schoolhouses, in the culture and
manufacture of tobacco, in the relief from annoyances of passports
and examination of luggage. A quarter of a mile from there, tobacco
is a monopoly, and its growth is prohibited; here it is produced in
considerable quantities, and manufactured for exportation.
The town of Lugano, prettily situated upon the borders of the lake,
surrounded by romantic scenery, is considerably frequented, and
foreign journals may be read there without the intermeddling of the
censor-police.
On the opposite side of the lake is the village of Castigleone, in
Austrian territory, at the foot of a steep mountain; it is accessible
only by land, over the Swiss high-road. Here the people enjoy
comparative freedom, and are exempt from military proscription; but
in these mountainous regions of Switzerland many women are afflicted
with huge swellings of the neck, which are frightful to behold, and are
attributed to the water of the country.
Among the twenty-two Cantons of Switzerland, there were four which
I had never seen; neither had I yet passed the Splugen and St.
Bernardino, which are of great interest; so I was induced to finish
the work. The St. Bernardino must not be confounded with the great St.
Bernard, which I passed some years since on mule-back, with my guide,
in the early part of the month of June, among the avalanches and snow
banks twenty feet deep, and was happy to find refuge among the monks
of the convent, who greeted me as the first traveller of the season,
and were longing for the news of Rome during the Holy Week. The Simplon
I had formerly crossed in the month of October, upon a sled for one
person, made of hoop-poles, with my trunk lashed thereto. Mount Cenis
I passed two years since, on my way from Turin to Chamberry, under
favorable circumstances, without exposure or fatigue, and now with the
lateness of the season I had nothing but beautiful scenery to expect,
four months of the year being considered free from danger.
From Lugano I proceeded to Bellinzona, in an open carriage, having a
fine view of the valleys and lakes in the distance below; it was a
five hours ride. We departed at midnight. With the early dawn we found
ourselves climbing up the zigzag mountain sides, among its scattered
villages, and houses of rude stone construction, whose slate-roofs
were secured from the high winds by huge stones; the shepherds were in
simple costume, tending their herds of goats and sheep; the limited
culture of grain was still green, while in the valleys it was already
harvested. We breakfasted at a village of five or six houses, mostly
inns, near the summit of the mountain, covered with snow, where the
stunted pines show that vegetation nearly ceases. This place, called
Bernardino, had some one hundred and fifty visitors making use of
the waters, which are strongly charged with iron; this and bracing
mountain air and climbing walks are particularly strengthening for some
constitutions. The mountain once passed, the gorges and ravines of the
Splugen and Via Mala are singularly grand and beautiful, with every
variety of romantic and picturesque scenery. At one moment I could
imagine myself, on some accounts, upon the mountains of Chili, from the
winding and circuitous road; then again the descent into one valley
for some miles, brought to mind our own Alleghanies from Frostburgh
to Cumberland. But the Via Mala caps the climax for its excavations,
bridges, stone-covered arches and tunnels, deep ravines and precipices,
where the head-waters of the river Rhine, gushing and foaming between
high ledges of rocks, may almost be leaped. The warm rays of the sun,
the cheerful villages, the grape fields, the farmers gathering their
grain, the disappearance of the chestnut-trees, upon the fruit of which
the mountain peasantry subsist, the throwing off of overcoats, the
Italian tongue replaced by the German and Swiss, all show conclusively
that we are in the valley, and across the Alps.
The Rhine receives another branch at Reichenau, and requires another
bridge to cross it; this bridge is directly in front of the chateau
where Louis Philippe served two years as a schoolmaster.
We are in the Canton Grison, the largest of Switzerland, and at five
P.M. we find ourselves at Chur, a post town of five thousand
inhabitants, in a lovely country. After eighteen hours ride from
Bellinzona we were disposed to rest, and take a few baths at Pfaffers,
some miles beyond.
The place just named has become somewhat celebrated of late years among
the Germans, and is much resorted to for its healing waters, and its
elevated position in the mountain gorges. There were some two hundred
and fifty visitors. The Duchess of Orleans, with her family, passed the
summer at Ragatz, and now Count Nesselrode is expected.
From the last point named, in the Canton San Gall, I proceeded across
the country to the Wallenstadt Lake, upon which steamers are employed,
and by diligence to the head of Lake Zurich. Lake Zurich, with its
well-cultivated borders, numerous villages, and many steamers, I have
seen before; still the whole trip was full of interest. Our boat was
crowded with tourists of all races. One heard all the different
languages, a perfect Babel, or confusion of tongues, which is not to
be wondered at, as the present railroad and steamer facilities bring
at this season of the year multitudes from all sources over the beaten
tracks and most accessible parts of the Swiss territory. Among our
passengers was a party of young men from one of the Swiss Cantons, with
their arms, flags, and distinguishing badges, going to the Turn-Verein
yearly festival, at Winterthur, a two hours ride by rail from this
city. I was curious to witness this celebration, represented by
delegations or companies from the twenty-two Cantons of Switzerland.
A large building was put at the disposition of the Union, with an
inclosure in the rear, and stages were erected for ladies and gentlemen
who desired to see the gymnastic exercises, leaping, jumping, climbing,
etc. A tower was constructed, covered by the colors of all the Cantons.
The prizes, many wrought by the ladies, were suspended within; judges
were appointed to decide upon the merits of the performers; and it must
be admitted that among the number, which was upwards of five hundred,
some extraordinary feats of agility were performed. The free use of
arms and target firing, which I have noticed, and in which they are
expert, and which would not be allowed in despotic countries, reminds
one of home, and the freedom of the people there.
Switzerland has also its Baden, which may be reached by rail in one
hour from this city. It is a charming place of resort for those who
cannot go to the banks of the Rhine. The German watering places have
more attractions, and the waters are more salutary.
I am desirous of seeing the upper portion of the Cantons St. Gall and
Appenzell, after which I purpose taking the Lake of Constance via
Schaffhausen into Germany, where I hope to use the waters of Wiesbaden,
which were of service to me the early part of last summer.