PRAGUE, BOHEMIA, _April 5, 1855_.
Since my last from Berlin, I have revisited Dresden, the capital of
the kingdom of Saxony, and am now again in the old city of Prague, the
former residence of the Bohemian kings.
While in Berlin, our minister addressed a note to Baron Humboldt, the
world-renowned traveller, desiring an appointment, at his convenience,
to present an American of some experience, which note was promptly
responded to. We were cordially received, and passed an hour very
delightfully in the society of this venerable old gentleman, now
eighty-five years of age, surrounded by books, charts, and a little
museum of his own collection.
The noble old man is still active, and fully retains his memory; he
speaks fluently the English, French, and Spanish languages. He inquired
ardently about countries it had fallen to my lot to visit, which he had
not seen, and expressed regret at my early departure, which prevented
further civilities on his part.
He is a great favorite with the king, and is of course a royalist;
but he has much sympathy for our country, and regrets the late
filibustering movements for the unlawful seizure of our neighbor’s
possessions.
Dresden is noted for having the finest collection of paintings north
of the Alps, the work of three hundred and thirty-four masters; the
masterpiece is Raphael’s Madonna. A number of years had elapsed since
I had strolled through these galleries, containing upwards of two
thousand pictures, and I saw them with renewed pleasure.
Dresden is also noted in Germany for its musical associations. Madame
Goldschmidt, formerly Jenny Lind, has made it her residence. As I had
made her acquaintance through her countrywoman, Miss Fredrika Bremer,
in the Havana, politeness induced me to pay my respects; she was absent
on a tour to Holland.
From Dresden to Bodenback, the Austrian frontier, is two hours’ ride
by railway, with a delay of an hour when the passports are demanded,
certificates given, examined, and then exchanged, and the luggage
changed.
The railways in north Germany belong in part to the different
governments, and in part to incorporated companies. Here the cars are
differently constructed, being larger and capable of containing more
persons, resembling somewhat the American; while in most parts of
Europe they are like the English ones, with separate apartments, of
coach-form, for eight passengers.
The Austrian custom-houses and police are extremely rigid, and they
keep, I am informed, a sharp eye upon Americans since the affair of
Kosta. Perhaps the warm reception of Kossuth in our country, and the
late European Congress of American Ministers, has had its influence.
In order to show you the smallness of the custom-house here, I will
state that I was detained a full half hour in the payment of duty
upon twenty-one cigars, which, with the official stamp, were taxed
at thirty kreutzers, of which the officers retain one-third. I told
them the document was worth the money, as an evidence of pitiful
meanness, which I had found in no other part of Europe. On a former
occasion, in entering Vienna, my travelling companion had two sealed
and fifteen open letters of recommendation seized, which were addressed
to different parts of Europe. The next day he was cited to the
custom-house, and found two sheets of foolscap paper written over,
and a fine of twenty florins imposed, which he resisted, as he spoke
German, and threatened to apply to our Minister, when he escaped with
the charge of five florins upon the sealed letters.
On entering my room here, I was immediately furnished with a printed
sheet, to fill up for the police, with my name, birthplace, occupation,
married or single, age, where now from, time of stay, religion, &c.
The language of the Bohemians is unintelligible to the Germans; and I
am assured that there are native born persons here, among the lower
classes, who cannot make the slightest communication in the German
tongue. The names of the streets, and signs, are in both languages.
The strength of Austria, which contains a population of seven millions
of Germans against twenty-nine millions of the different races,
consists in the variety of languages and religions, as is the case with
the British East India Company, through the jealousy and religious
feuds of Hindoo, Buddhist, Parsee, and other castes.
I am told that throughout the Austrian domain as many as eighteen
languages and dialects are spoken.
The Jewish population is some twelve thousand; it occupies a certain
portion of the city, formerly inclosed and locked at night, though now
all the barriers are removed. Their old synagogue and churchyard are
curious; the former is the most antique in Europe, being considered
one thousand years old. Its walls are dark and dusky as those of a
prison, and for centuries have remained unrenovated. Here is suspended
a banner, presented by royalty, some five hundred years since. The laws
of Moses, written upon rolls of parchment, in the Hebrew tongue, and
many other curious relics, are exhibited.
The new edifice is a pretty building, and when illuminated at night, in
its peculiar style, has a handsome effect.
As I am just departing for Vienna, I shall be there in time for the
prominent ceremonies in the Cathedral of St. Stephen.