BRAUNSCHWEIG, GERMANY, _Dec. 26, 1854_.
My last was from Hanover. Braunschweig, the capital city of the duchy,
notwithstanding its princely residence and forty thousand inhabitants,
has not the life and activity generally observed in Hanover. The palace
and grounds of the Herzog, or Duke Wilhelm, merit attention. Having
no wife, or family, his court is not brilliant in proportion to the
royal family of Hanover, although his own private revenue and ducal
appointments are equal to two hundred thousand dollars of our currency;
a very respectable sum for a population of two hundred and fifty
thousand. The former Duke, who had his palace burned over his head,
and was chased from his country for malconduct, I had occasion to speak
of last winter, at a court ball given at the Tuileries. The present
duke is the last of his family, and, being without issue, the reversion
goes to the Prussian crown.
Christmas is an important festival in Germany; the city presented a
gay appearance in consequence of the many preparations for this event.
The market places were covered with Tannen Baumer, or fir trees, with
booths and tents filled with every variety of fancy articles, for
presents, not forgetting a profusion of honey cakes in every form, for
which the town has a celebrity. All classes must have large or small
fir trees standing upon platforms, some of which are decorated with
inclosed garden houses in miniature, and other designs.
Returning here in time for the Christmas-eve ceremonies, which I had
a good opportunity of seeing at a friend’s house, you will pardon my
describing, at this holiday season, what may interest the young. In
the centre of the saloon stood a small tree, nearly the height of
the ceiling, its branches hung with variegated colored glass balls,
round cakes, nuts in gold-and silver-leaf foil, confectionery of
various kinds, the infant Jesus in a lying position suspended from
the branches, the whole interspersed with wax tapers. The tables were
spread with a variety of clothing, and other useful and ornamental
articles for the children of from eight to fourteen years of age, who
were anxiously waiting outside the closed folding doors until the
illumination took place; then, each one rushed to his or her table,
expressing childish astonishment and delight. Once recovered from their
emotions, the parents were surprised in turn by the children, who had
prepared a miniature tree and many little articles of embroidery,
wrought at intervals unknown to the elders. The expressions of wonder
and joy are general. Grandmothers, aunts, and nieces, had been
industriously employed for the past three weeks in preparing gifts.
The servants next received their presents. The evening closed with
refreshments.
Speaking of Christmas Eve, I am reminded of Polterabend, or Nuptial
Eve: some evenings since, I was startled by extraordinary sounds upon
the sidewalk, opposite my house, and on inquiring, found that it was
caused by the throwing of glass bottles and a perfect shower of old
crockery plates, which singular custom was the greeting of the friends
of a young lady who was to be married on the following day; and, at the
appointed time, the carriages arrived to take the lady-bride to the
church over which the minister-groom presided. I have passed houses,
where the front entrances appeared as if a family quarrel had made a
perfect wreck of the porcelain.
The people in Hanover are dazzled with palaces, horses, carriages, and
liveried court-dresses, and servants. Ladies look with admiration upon
the queen, and her richly-clad maids of honor; children exclaim, “There
goes the pretty little crown-prince and the princesses!” And how often
have I observed in theatres and concerts the patient people waiting a
half hour or more the arrival of the royal suite before the exercises
commenced, when the impatient Americans, in similar circumstances,
would have brought down the house over the ears of the manager. Then
the cringing manner of the employees and military officers, keeping
an eye on the king: when he applauds, the applause becomes universal,
while, if he is silent, a meritorious artist receives, perhaps, not the
slightest compliment.
One great source of annoyance in Germany, is the great variety of
coin and weights in use among the thirty and more different empires,
kingdoms, duchies, and landgraves, whereby we must always lose in
exchange in going from one point to another. An effort has been made in
the Bund, or confederacy, at Frankfort, to bring about more uniformity,
but the great quantity of base metal, of little value, in use in some
districts, causes the measure to be opposed.
1855.