AIX-LA-CHAPELLE, _July 25, 1854_.
The facilities for travel have so greatly increased since I first
visited Europe in 1841, that I can scarcely realize that I am now
writing from Aix, in Prussia, and that a portion of my last letter
from Paris was descriptive of the baths of Aix en Savoie, in the north
of Italy, where I was some six weeks since, thence passing through
Switzerland to the French capital, making a considerable sojourn, with
excursions to Versailles, Enghien, Fontainebleau, &c.; proceeding
to Belgium, visiting Brussels, Liege, and the waters of the Spa.
These points were all familiar to me, consequently only agreeable as
souvenirs of the past. I found Brussels the same miniature Paris, but
augmented in size, and containing some two hundred and forty thousand
of population, partaking less of the Flemish character than formerly;
the houses, shops, and streets very cleanly, with a great amount of
industry. Dogs are there turned to account, and seen drawing carts as
in Germany. The window shutters of the first floors of many of the
houses are supplied with small projecting mirrors, for the convenience
of the ladies, as in Holland, enabling them to see the foot passengers
up and down the sidewalks, without showing themselves obtrusively. The
Park opposite the royal residence, and near the former palace of the
Prince of Orange, is a miniature Tuileries, and affords an agreeable
promenade. The manufacturing town of Liege, upon the banks of the
Meuse, in a fertile valley with most romantic scenery, is well worth a
visit. It is noted for its manufacture of cloth and fire-arms. Owing
to a free use of coal, the old city is black and dirty, not unlike the
manufacturing districts of England. The most delightful valley is that
of Spa, celebrated for its ferruginous waters, which are highly charged
with iron. The country is fertile; the roads and public walks are
bordered by tall and expansive shade trees. The winding alleys, little
pavilions and look-outs from the heights, give great variety, and
induce one to sojourn here, as the lodging houses and hotels are good
and clean. The cuisine for reading, music, and play are attractive, and
encourage many English to visit this picturesque spot, as the route is
so practicable by way of sea to Ostend, and a railroad being within six
miles, families are enabled to get here with little difficulty. The
place is famous for painted fancy articles of every description, which
are its only commerce; consequently it is a neat, genteel, and quiet
watering place.
I had called upon our Minister at Brussels, and upon the Prussian
Ambassador, and found them both absent, but had the pleasure of a
rencontre with them at Spa. The only privileged bank or roulette
in Belgium, is at the springs; the owners are very liberal, and
contribute largely to the entertainment of guests. A handsome ball and
illumination was given while I was there.
Aix has forty-eight thousand inhabitants, and numerous hot mineral
springs in and about the city. Its name, Aquæ Grani, and its origin and
prosperity, date back to the Roman era, when the Proconsul Granis and
his legions stopped here in their passage from the Gauls to Germany.
Its healing springs decided Charlemagne to make it his favorite
sojourn with his numerous court. It was the place for crowning the
German emperors, from Louis le Debonnaire, in 873, to Ferdinand I.,
in 1531. There are eight huge sulphur baths, to which are attached
good and commodious quarters, giving invalids the advantage of bathing
without exposure. At this season of the year the baths and hotels are
full; the arrivals thus far reaching several thousands; the names of
strangers arriving from all sources are published daily in a small
sheet, with their places of residence. The city lies in a valley,
and is defended by the now verdant hills, which protect it from high
winds; it may be considered a desirable place for health during the
inclement season. The principal places of resort for strangers and
citizens, within the city, are the Kurhaus, containing library and
reading rooms, the concert halls, and a ball-room with a garden,
enlivened with an orchestra in the evening. There may be found here a
large re-union of ladies and gentlemen, wherein most of the languages
of Europe are heard. The fountain Elise, and the garden adjoining,
are most frequented in the morning by those who imbibe; glass in hand
you see them strolling under the pavilion, reconciling themselves
to a disagreeable draught, with an air from the military band. The
municipality has here the benefit derived from the gaming tables,
which has enabled them to erect a fine new hospital. It is curious and
instructive to notice the passion for play--the anxiety manifested
upon the countenances of those not accustomed to this unfortunate
vice. It is not confined to the male sex, but numbers of beautiful and
fashionably-dressed ladies are seen surrounding the tables, staking or
drawing in with tiny rakes the glittering pieces of gold. From a height
called Louisberg, is presented a beautiful panorama of the city and
suburbs. The avenues for a drive and walks through the woods are really
charming; an excellent restaurant, erected by the city authorities,
with occasional fêtes and bands of music, are among the attractions. As
I was strolling alone through the forest, towards evening, I reached
a culminating point on an eminence, where I had one of the most
magnificent landscapes lying before me, and my mind was involuntarily
carried towards home. I heard the shrill whistle and the tread of the
iron horse in the distant valley beyond me. I could almost fancy myself
gazing from a certain knoll, upon which I have often stood, a little
south of Poughkeepsie, with the distant hum from the railroad trains.
Although nature had done much, art had not yet accomplished what was
required. I looked in vain, however, for the majestic Hudson, whitened
with sails, and the towering summits of the Highlands, and awakening
from my reverie, I came to the conclusion that there are but few
spots which nature and the work of man, combined, have rendered more
attractive and agreeable than the Spring side of our beautiful city.
The remains of Charlemagne, the most powerful of Emperors, lie in the
old cathedral founded by him. It has now withstood the ravages of
more than a thousand years, having been consecrated by Pope Leo in
the year 804. It contains many relics preserved in gold and silver
cases set with precious stones. The most valuable of these relics were
presented by Queen Isabella of Spain, in the sixteenth century, and
are only opened once in seven years, for a fortnight, which occasions
the pilgrimage of thousands of believers at that time. They are taken
from their envelopes of silk, covered with cloths of gold and silver,
and beset with jewels. They consist of a white cotton dress, supposed
to have been worn by the mother of our Saviour; the linen with which
the infant Jesus was clad; the cloth upon which the head of John the
Baptist was placed; and the sack with which Christ girded his loins.
A large portion of the population is employed in the manufacture of
cloths, silks, pins, needles, and various branches of trade. The
Americans are among the best customers for cloths. We had a small
fair here the other day. The country people stared and gazed and made
their little purchases; mountebanks, menageries, trained monkeys and
dogs, flying horses, and albinoes were plentiful; there were moving
wax figures of Christ and his disciples at the table; and a living
representation of his condemnation and flagellation, with verbal
descriptions in German. Lager beer, cheese, and pipes were in general
demand.
It must not be supposed that these people know nothing of California.
I saw once a panorama of the trip to the land of gold, via the Isthmus
of Panama. My curiosity led me, a few evenings since, to look in upon
a much vaunted panorama now exhibiting here, painted by two artists
who had crossed the plains. The gold diggings, the view of Sacramento
city, the descent of the river to Benicia and San Francisco, were
tolerably executed. A frightful shipwreck upon the Mexican coast
made the audience shudder; the South American pirates seizing and
burning a vessel, made them promise without doubt, to stay quietly at
home. The beautiful tropical vegetation of Nicaragua was enchanting,
but the serpents were frightful. Finally, after a long voyage, via
Havana, we were brought safely to the port of New York. The Battery
and Castle Garden, with a multitude of shipping, were before us; the
spire of Trinity church soared up high; large and beautiful steamers
with upper deck saloons were represented--the Reindeer being just
ready for departure. The description given as the canvass rolled by,
was interesting, although exaggerated; but when, in conclusion, the
above-named steamer exploded, with five hundred passengers on board, I
thought it was carrying the joke too far. I told the exhibitor, at the
close, that we admitted the explosion and the loss of seven lives, but
as the tide of emigration was great from Germany to America, we could
not afford such wholesale slaughter.