STEAMER QUITO, _April 29, 1852_.
The old Spanish custom of bull fights is still kept up with all its
vigor in Lima, and the long looked-for combat came off after the church
ceremonies of Passion Week had ended. Having, as a traveller, witnessed
this barbarous sport in Spain, where it is countenanced by the nobility
and the dignitaries of the government, I was induced to attend it here
chiefly to observe the ladies in their saya mantas--a garment which
entirely prevents recognition, as it leaves one eye only exposed.
The sayas are falling into disuse, and not seen so often as formerly
in the public streets, except on festive occasions. Any lady may be
addressed, but under no circumstances can the veil be removed by force,
without calling down the vengeance of bystanders. An immense building
of circular form stands near the Alameda; it is a public promenade,
with palcos or boxes for parties and families, and seats in the form
of an amphitheatre, capable of containing some seven thousand persons.
The authorities of the city occupy a prominent place, as well as the
military officers and judges. A programme is sold, containing the names
of the twelve bulls to be killed, and describing the characteristics
of the prominent matadores, two of whom, father and son, have recently
arrived from Spain.
The trumpet sounds; mounted horsemen come forth and clear the ring;
others appear with lances in hand; and then appear six flag-men with
red and yellow scarfs, round jackets, and short clothes of silk and
velvet, embroidered with gold and silver lace, shining knee-buckles,
and silk stockings. The sliding gate is opened, and in rushes the
tortured bull, with his eyes glaring, and makes for the horse, but
is diverted by the blazing colors of the scarfs. Sometimes a mantle
is thrown over the shoulders; the animal pursues it, when the wearer
dashes it aside and dodges the infuriated beast, escaping behind a side
partition fence, while he takes after another, and barbed arrows with
feather or paper plumes are planted in his neck, causing him to roar
and paw the dust, and make another attempt at his adversary, in which
he sometimes upsets horse and rider, goring the former, to the delight
of the multitude, whose cries and waving handkerchiefs attest their
pleasure. After the ineffectual efforts and hair-breadth escapes of
the actors, the matador, while attracting the bull with his red flag,
with one thrust of his long sword gives him a mortal stab, which passes
through the neck and heart, and appears between the fore-legs. The
enthusiasm is then at its height. The trumpet sounds, the gates are
thrown open, two pairs of heavy mules appear, bedecked with feathers,
and mounted by two riders. The head of the defunct is raised upon a
pair of small wheels, and attached by the horns to the traces; the band
strikes up, the dead carcase is removed under the full gallop; the
gates are closed, and a new victim soon appears. I felt it a relief to
escape and stroll along the beautiful Alameda, upon the river bank.
The ride to the baths of Churilla, a few leagues from Lima, is over a
heavy, sandy road, dusty, dreary, and of no interest.
The Indian village situated on the bay is much resorted to during
the summer months. The bath-houses are of cane or reed, and form a
sort of labyrinth, with a few flat stones in each for seats; they are
occupied by both sexes, but are rather exposed. Gambling seems to be
the order of the day, or rather night, as all classes, male and female,
enter into the sport, it being the ruling passion of the Peruvians
as well as the Chilians. Among the passengers in the diligence or
public conveyance was a grey-headed, thin-visaged, lank old man, whose
whole dress, including his poncho, would not have sold for _twenty
dollars_; yet this confirmed old gambler had amassed two hundred
thousand dollars in play, and notwithstanding that he was lame with
one foot in the grave, his passion, which was the object of his visit,
must still be gratified. Many persons have private residences for the
enjoyment of the sea breeze and bathing, but they are of a primitive
character. Ludicrous dances in grotesque costumes are performed by the
negroes, which help to pass their evenings.
Lima is considered the gayest city on the South Pacific coast, and
enjoys a mild, equal climate, being uninfluenced by the near approach
of the mountains, and of a much more agreeable temperature than the
same latitude on the opposite side in Brazil. The houses, which are two
stories, have balconies of latticed work, which gives the ladies an
opportunity of seeing all passers in the streets. The ladies are less
celebrated for constancy than for sprightliness, grace, and beauty,
and are a far superior race to the men, who are much inferior to the
Chilians. The use, or rather abuse of the saya manta was formerly a
means of intrigue even in the presence of husbands and brothers, as
exchanges of robes were easily effected. The adoption of European
costume is fast reducing the use of this garment.
To a stranger the alarm created by a shock of an earthquake upon the
natives appear ridiculous, as they rush out of their houses into the
open square, and if the shock is in the night, of course in undress;
all who experience these shocks, however, are soon overcome by the same
kind of terror. The earthquake of the last century swept Callao and its
entire population into the sea. We had a considerable shock a few days
since, while I was in a heavy stone and brick building, used in part
for a museum, and where some interesting specimens of antiquity of the
times of the Incas are found, as also mummies from the Indian mounds,
and the portraits of the former viceroys of Peru. I was examining
these objects attentively, when I found myself suddenly alone, with
the balance of the party making for the inner court or square, crying
out “_un temblor!_” The dust was flying about me, and I followed
hurriedly; I observed that the sky was remarkably bright, that there
was a perfect stillness of the elements, and that the air was filled
with birds in confusion; however, it soon passed, and without damage.
The steamer from which I write is new; she is just out from England,
this being her first trip. We are fortunate in having fresh supplies
and attentive servants, with few passengers, and every comfort. We have
just met the Santiago, and exchanged civilities, and received English
papers from Panama. I learn from her captain, who has just recovered
from the pest, that all my fellow passengers from Valparaiso, who
touched at Callao and Lima, with one exception, were attacked, and
among the number a family of seven persons. I find I have great reason
to be thankful in having escaped.
We shall make the distance of eighteen hundred miles in seven and a
half days, passing nearly one day at Paita, which has a fine harbor,
and was formerly resorted to by whalers for supplies; they now go to
Tumbes, seven leagues above, where water is to be had, with which
water Paita is supplied, not a blade of grass or a drop of the liquid
element being produced at the latter place, the few plants there in
boxes being looked upon with much pleasure. It is far superior to many
other small towns along the coast. There are some comfortable houses
built of cane, and covered with flags, which earthquakes cannot shake
down easily, and several long and narrow streets which afford shade.
An extraordinary event had just occurred, it having rained for a part
of a day, for the first time in seven years. The natives are mostly
Indians; a quiet, docile, and well-looking people. The residents seem
satisfied with their position and climate; they say that they are
deprived of vegetation and water, but that they can get supplies from
along the coast; that they are not infested with venomous reptiles
and noxious fleas, the accompaniment of rank verdure, and that the
people die of old age, citing instances of ninety and one hundred years
longevity. I had made a passage with the son of the English Consul,
whose father had been there for nineteen years, and enjoys the climate.
I breakfasted and lunched with him, with some other guests from the
ship, and certainly there was no want of the good things of life, even
in such a desert place. The reputed wife of General Bolivar resides
here; she was with him in many of his campaigns, while Liberator of
South America. A friend took me to her house, and I found a stout,
fat, but well featured elderly lady, in her hammock, which I learn she
rarely leaves, unless for her bed. She had her two poodle dogs nestling
beside her; she received us kindly, and conversed intelligently and in
a diplomatic manner upon matters of politics. She is a great friend
of General Flores, whose expedition is now approaching Guayaquil with
fourteen hundred men, and with the prospect of overthrowing President
Urbini, of Ecuador, who, she says, was educated by General Flores while
former President, to whom he proved an ungrateful wretch. I found there
the daughter of Flores with her husband and aide de-camp, awaiting
news from the seat of war. This lady, who once lived in Lima in almost
regal style, now subsists upon the charities of her numerous friends.
As I had once visited the tomb of Bolivar in Caraccas, and received
the hospitalities of a cousin bearing his name, in his rancho, near
Porto Cabello, the old lady seemed interested in me, and insisted on
my joining her in smoking a choice Havana, an occupation which she
appeared to enjoy.
To-morrow we shall arrive at Panama, which place I had not expected
or hoped to see again, and I can scarcely realize the fact that since
my last visit I have made the circuit of the globe, and since my
departure from home have passed almost the entire length of North and
South America on both sides. After fourteen winters’ travel in southern
latitudes, and several years’ absence at intervals from home, I find
that my table of distances amounts to six hundred thousand miles, from
the snowy regions of Canada, Norway, and Finland in the north, to the
barren shores of Patagonia in the south--having traversed by sea and
land, at different periods, almost all the practicable portions of the
earth, in making the circuit of the world. Although what has passed
appears not unlike a dream, my ambition for the present is satisfied,
and I have reason to thank a kind Providence, whose protecting hand
has carried me through almost all the perils of life, and has been
the means of preserving a constitution endangered by the severity of
northern winter-climates. I shall proceed via the isthmus to Havana,
and thence to New Orleans, on my way home, where I hope to arrive in
the early part of June.
1853.