HONG KONG, CHINA, _Aug. 20, 1851_.
This island, the name of which translated is Fragrant Springs (it is
certainly supplied with running water, though barren and hilly), is
twenty-one miles in circumference, and is situated on the north side of
the bay which communicates with the Canton river, to which it is the
key. It was ceded in treaty to the English, and is a great acquisition,
but has cost them five or six millions in erecting buildings for
troops, fortifications, and general improvements, in addition to the
large expenditures of English capitalists. It is decidedly an English
town, although their numbers are not great therein, though it contains
a regiment of one thousand troops. Its being a free port facilitates
contraband trade; it has a large Chinese population, and in all
contains probably twenty thousand inhabitants. Macao, on the opposite
side of the bay, about thirty miles distant, occupied for centuries by
the Portuguese, is an agreeable place of residence, but it has, through
bad management, lost its trade, and its harbor is quite deserted. It is
now used as a place of summer resort, but rents have declined, and the
people are poor. The heat of Hong Kong and Canton is very oppressive at
this season of the year; we had the thermometer in the latter city from
ninety-eight to one hundred for several days in succession, with but
little difference in the night. Humboldt says that La Guayra, in South
America, is the hottest place in the world, but I suffered more from
the heat in Canton than there.
Before leaving Hong Kong, I made an excursion to the Whampoa Pagoda,
which is nine stories high, of an octagonal form, and has in the
distance a most imposing effect. The duck boats by the river bank
attracted my attention; the ducks are driven ashore in large numbers to
feed, and at the sound of a bell they rush back to their quarters, from
the circumstance that the last one who enters gets whipped for being
dilatory. The Chinese have a temple here, also, well fitted up; and
last evening it was magnificently lighted by their fanciful lanterns,
and a festival called Sing Song came off, with the beating of gongs,
kettle drums, and other instruments, and a supply of confectionery and
other eatables, inside and outside the building, upon stands, for sale.
There were immense figures of men and animals, made of painted
pasteboard strengthened by wires, which were taken out and burned as
offerings to their gods. We could expose ourselves with perfect safety
among the people, and examine minutely the idols of the altars, feeling
a sense of security on British soil which I could not feel in and about
Canton, under like circumstances.
I was quartered in Canton in the most desirable part for sights, and
some of a most amusing character were constantly seen. One day I
counted from my window eighteen stout barbers, who carried on their
backs a three-legged stool with straps attached, and in the bottom a
chest of lances; they were engaged on, or waiting for, customers in
the open court. The operation of dressing the long tail and scraping
the pate, in addition to the practice of cleaning the eye and ear,
occupies some time, for all of which they get about six cash, or half a
cent each. Mandarins occasionally passed in sedan chairs, with suites
of attendants, and the hurry of the crowd was observed to allow their
mandarinships a free passage. A large wedding procession attracted
my attention from the great quantity of presents therein. I counted
fifty coolies with loaded hand-barrows, filled with fruit, flowers,
confectioneries, cakes, nuts, robes, &c., in rich profusion, preceding
the bride, who was conducted to the house of the groom veiled, in a
sedan chair, as the tiny feet of the ladies are seldom seen in the
streets. They are affianced early by their parents without ever having
seen their lovers; and when their intended husbands gaze upon them, if
acceptable, they are supported by women across a pan of coals into the
house.
They are sometimes rejected, but damages are expected. This leads to
unhappy marriages and polygamy, which is recognised by the law, the
children having legitimate rights. The river-women all go bare-footed
in warm weather, and their feet are of natural size.
The upper classes still continue the bandaging of the feet as a mark
of rank, which is eulogized in Chinese poetry. This barbarous practice
consists in turning under the small toes of the infant and bandaging
them, leaving only the great toe exposed, which system in course of
time raises the instep and throws the heel backwards, giving them more
equilibrium; the iron shoe is not used, but the wrappers are changed
daily. Among the poorest classes, female children are much neglected,
and frequent instances of infanticide occur, woman being considered
born to drudgery, and not meriting an education.
I came down by steamer, the only passenger, and in the evening found
fire-arms brought up and laid on the companion-way; I naturally asked
the cause, and was informed there was nearly a million of bullion on
board for shipment, and that an attempt had recently been made by a
Chinese crew who had concerted a plan with some fifteen forward deck
passengers, by previous understanding, for the taking of the shipment
of specie, and to cut off the officers while at table, and run the boat
outside of Boca Tigris. The plot, however, was discovered in time to
prevent it.
Not unfrequently the piratical Chinese attack the junks,
notwithstanding all their crews go armed with spears and lances. Now
they employ all Englishmen on board of the river boats which contain
treasure. We have had news of the loss of the steamer Pasha, which
was run down by the steamer Erie, in the Straits of Malacca, with the
loss of several lives, and a large quantity of opium. It was from
carelessness, as the steamers had exchanged signals about midnight, but
notwithstanding, the Erie at full speed struck the Pasha with her port
bow, a little slanting, a few feet abaft the mainmast, and she sank in
five minutes, without having time to lower her boats.
This has produced great excitement here, both steamers belonging to the
Peninsular and Oriental Steam Co. I think now I can embark with safety
to-morrow on board the steamer Malta for Singapore, as more care is
always exercised after an accident.