LADRONE ISLANDS, _July 21, 1851_.
The cry of “Land Ho” to the traveller on a sea voyage is always
refreshing, but particularly so after having been some weeks out of
sight of terra firma. Our ship is deserving of the name of clipper when
she has good breezes, and when full rigged is perfectly white with
canvass, carrying from thirty-five to forty sails.
We have been running with the trades almost in a direct route from
the Sandwich Islands, some three thousand five hundred miles, and
have never furled a sail since our departure until yesterday, when
appearances indicated one of the much dreaded typhoons, which are so
much feared at this season, and which appear in the region of the
islands, and extend through the China Sea. The strongest and swiftest
ships are unable to resist them; they have their spars carried away,
and even their masts taken out, and are not unfrequently lost, as
was the case with the clipper-ship Rainbow. The heavens at mid-day
were only comparable to the blackness of night, and the whole horizon
seemed to be circumscribed; it appeared as if our bowsprit would soon
enter into the tar-colored circle ahead of us. The orders of officers
were given and responded to by an active crew of sixteen sailors.
The orders, “Brail the spanker,” “Haul up the mainsail,” “Reef the
foresail,” and so on, were rapidly given until she could be got in safe
trim. It proved to be more a deluge of rain than a gale of wind, with
terrific peals of thunder, as if all the artillery of heaven was in
commotion; the lightning played beautifully and awfully about us.
It was one of those magnificent sights which must be witnessed to be
appreciated. If we had not shortened sail we should have run out of
it, but prudence dictated the greatest caution, particularly in this
latitude. The sailors, as the rain abated, amused themselves like a
parcel of ducks, playing and bathing in the water upon deck, before the
scuppers could carry off the copious supply.
Our ship is spacious, with fine promenade, quarter and main decks
unencumbered. Our cabin is large and handsomely finished, and furnished
with accommodations for thirty-two passengers, but there being only two
of us we are not elbowed, and find our supplies bountiful.
My companion from San Francisco, is bound to Canton only. I had
once made a passage with him from Charleston to New York, and we
subsequently met in Havana, and now chance throws us again together
under pleasant circumstances. We occupy our time like most others on
shipboard, to relieve monotony, by the usual labor of eating, drinking,
and considerable sleeping; of course, also in writing and reading, the
latter being the great resource, and my neighbor, being fond of music,
whiles away many a weary hour upon his guitar and accordeon.
Our Anniversary of the glorious Fourth, we ushered in by discharging
our six-shooters, and ringing the steward’s bell, and afterwards firing
at a mark, to commemorate the day. Dined patriotically, with sentiments
to friends and home, heard an occasional salute from Jack, of the
forecastle, carrying the mind back to the scenes of former days. Thus
passed the day, and at ten at night, while pacing the quarter-deck
by moonlight, under a press of canvas, with a nine-knot breeze, the
trade-wind dead aft and sailing on even keel, the ocean calm, and now
entitled to its Pacific name, I could not help reflecting upon the
events of home, and found, at that moment, judging from our position of
latitude and longitude, you were then returning from a Church Oration,
or listening to the mid-day salute. Sunday the 6th, was observed as the
Sabbath on shipboard, but had been lost in the calculation of nautical
time, as we had passed the one hundred and eightieth degree of west
longitude, or the world’s centre, being the antipodes of Greenwich.
We then counted it as ship’s time, Monday 7th, and commenced in east
longitude. On the ninth day out from Honolulu, we lost sight of the
bark Isabella Hine, with which vessel I went to the islands from St.
Francisco; we left in company, and kept in view during all this time,
which was a little remarkable, showing the equality of sailing of these
two clippers--the average runs being from one hundred and sixty to two
hundred miles per day, with moderate breezes. The weather has been very
hot during the entire passage, the thermometer now standing eighty-six
degrees, with an occasional refreshing shower, favorable for fresh
supplies, as the old stock of water is repugnant to smell.
As we have had no weather to admit of fishing, such calms not being
desirable, our curiosity has not been excited with the sights of
whales, sharks, sea lions, or porpoises, of which we had an abundance
while going down to the islands; we conclude therefore that we have
got away from their cruising grounds. There is nothing to call one’s
attention, except the water-spouts, which we are disposed to give a
wide berth. The moonlight nights are delightful, and the most pleasant
part of the twenty-four hours; they incline one to pace the deck, and
give him plenty of time to reflect upon the many changes and scenes in
life.
Having no opportunity to forward this letter, I shall not close it till
our arrival at Hong Kong or Macao.
* * * * *
MACAO, _Aug. 4, 1851_.
Having an opportunity of sending the annexed letter immediately on
entering port, I can now announce our arrival, although in the latter
part of our voyage we were becalmed and had to contend with the
head-winds, after the regular trades had left us, on passing the Bashee
Islands in the China sea, where we had reason to expect the south-west
trades, or monsoons, but on the contrary had to contend with heavy
tide ripples or counter currents, running at the rate of two and a
half miles per hour. I assure you it was disheartening to make only
twenty miles per day, within three hundred miles of our haven, while
liable to meet a stray pirate, or a frightful typhoon, not to mention
the sun’s rays, which were overpowering; but our for fortunes changed
after a few days’ reverse, a strong south-wester having brought us in
sight of the Celestials with their long tails, who are surrounding us
in their sharp, lightly constructed boats, with sails of matting, and
are proffering their services for pilotage, supplies of fish, fruits,
&c. I have not time to add further, but shall write you from Canton,
seventy-five miles up the river.