Since I wrote you from Norway, I have, by means of private post, and
public vehicles on the land route, and steamboats upon the lakes and
canals, travelled entirely through Sweden; a country of which so little
is known, and which is so beautiful and picturesque that I could not
help being delighted. This country has been much favored by nature
in the development of its internal resources, for its lakes, by the
construction of immense canals and locks, which will compare for
solidity and beauty with any in the world, have been connected with
rivers in such a manner, that vessels of good size with their cargoes,
as well as small steamboats, can traverse the entire width of the
country, from Gottenberg on the west to Stockholm on the north-east
coast. It is less tedious and more interesting for the traveller to
vary the means of conveyance.
A few hours’ ride from Wenersborg, a small town situated upon a large
lake which bears its name, and where it falls into the river Gotha, are
the cataracts of Trolhatta, celebrated in all the north as the Niagara
of Sweden. There are several falls which are separated by islands,
and the scenery is wild and savage, and reminded me of the Niagara,
although it is less majestic; I think it preferable to any of the
cascades of Europe.
There is a sail by steamer of fifteen hours upon lake Wener, almost
the entire length, to Holt, where stages take passengers to Örebro, a
fine town, which has the peculiarity of most of the country towns in
Sweden, the houses being built of wood and painted red, as well as the
outbuildings and fences. There one takes the steamer and passes through
a chain of small lakes and canals, amid numerous and picturesque
islands, varying in form, with wild and enchanting scenery, bearing
some resemblance to the groups of islands in the St. Lawrence.
The approach to Stockholm through the beautiful lake Mälar, with its
banks richly cultivated and covered with villas, and occasionally a
village, old chateau, or palace, is certainly very beautiful; and
the city itself, situated upon seven islands, is only surpassed as
a commercial port by Constantinople and Naples, and I consider the
locality, in point of natural beauty, the third in Europe.
I have visited the objects most worthy of notice in the city, viz.
the palace of the late king Bernadotte, containing all the relics and
souvenirs of that monarch, who was a French General, and governed
the Swedes for many years without acquiring any knowledge of their
language, and as a natural consequence the French became the court
language, which accounts for many persons being found here who speak
it. His son, the present king Oscar, is educated with the language
of the country. One of the churches is a perfect museum, containing
a vast quantity of trophies, from Turkey and other parts of Europe,
made in the conquests of Charles XII., together with all the relics
identified with that warrior prince--the pride of Sweden; his chapeau,
with the bullet-hole therein from which he received his death, as
also his uniform, is preserved in a glass case. In the vaults lie the
remains of all the Swedish kings, in gold gilded sarcophagi, ending
with the last, Bernadotte. There are also a dozen stuffed horses ranged
on each side of the building, clad in full coat of mail, with riders
covered with armor and shields most elaborately wrought; altogether
it is a handsome collection, and would bear comparison with the Turin
or Dresden exhibitions. The water excursions to the gardens, and
villas, and beautiful points of view, interest the stranger; for my
knowledge of them I am indebted to the politeness of our minister, Col.
Ellsworth. A steamboat excursion of one day to the Drollingholm Palace
and grounds, the favorite residence of some of the former Swedish
kings, is very interesting. An excursion by water to Upsala, famous for
its university and cathedral, and thence by land to the immense and
wonderful Dannemora Iron Mines, returning thence via the palace and
grounds of Skokloster, which occupies about three days, is not only an
interesting but an instructive one, and should not be omitted by any
traveller visiting Sweden.
It would be useless to attempt a description of the contents or
beauties of the palaces; suffice it to say then, that I was agreeably
surprised to find such collections here in the north of Europe; though
when I reflected that they were filled with the fruits of the conquests
and robberies of General Bragh, from different parts of Germany, it was
easily accounted for.
I chartered a carriage at Upsala and posted thence to the mines of
Dannemora. I found the roads good, and horses small but fast. The
unusual number of gates appeared singular; each farm or plantation has
its own, and I suppose one hundred would not exceed the number passed
in this voyage. Either my valet or the driver was continually getting
down to open gates, where children were not found running to do so, to
earn a small copper coin, which I was glad to throw to them to avoid
delay.
Sweden is famous for the quality of its iron, particularly for making
steel, large quantities of which go to England as well as America.
These immense works, with five hundred men employed in the mines, are
eight hundred feet deep; the opening would cover acres, and it is
frightful to look into the deep chasm. There are millions of tons upon
the grounds in the vicinity ready for smelting, which are transported
to the different furnaces through the country. The houses and grounds
of the village belong to the company, as also the tracts of land for
cultivation, and the workmen live on the spot, having their house rent
free, and the privilege of purchasing grain at a low rate; they earn
_fifteen cents_ per day. The only wonder is how families can
subsist on such pittances as the poor laborers obtain in many parts
of Europe; and the question naturally arises, how can we develope the
resources of our country, and pay remunerating prices for labor, in
competition with the serfs of Europe, unless by a protective duty,
which necessity will oblige us yet to adopt? How many millions of poor
starving wretches there are in Europe who would rejoice to have their
stomachs filled with the corn bread and bacon of the negroes of the
south!
All the necessaries of life are abundant and cheap in Sweden, more so
than in most other countries, but the cuisine is horrible. There are
no table d’hôtes in the public-houses, and one is obliged to go to
restaurants, which are very indifferent. One custom prevails throughout
all Sweden, in restaurants, country-houses, and private houses; that
is to offer the guest on a side table, what they call schnaps--a
species of white brandy, with small particles of smoked salmon or ham,
to prepare the appetite. The interior of a Swedish log cabin, in its
rustic style, is a curiosity. From the ceiling, by means of network or
wood frames, are suspended monthly supplies of black flat rye bread or
cakes, with a hole in the centre; the whole battery of kitchen utensils
is hung up on one side of a huge fireplace, and as the country abounds
in timber the inhabitants need not freeze; the beds are a sort of
boxes, hardly wide enough to turn round in, and the pillow is a sort of
wedge, in the form of a letter V; in place of coverlids they give you a
light feather bed, or one of eider down, which almost suffocates you;
yet you dare not throw it off for fear of taking cold.
In the vicinity of the old and ruined town of Upsala, are seen some
high mounds, which tradition says were the tombs of the heathen kings
of Sweden. They are lofty and curious, and bear resemblance to some
I have seen in the western part of our country, so I was induced to
visit them. The present king, Oscar, ordered an excavation through
the centre of the largest, and walled and piled up the passage as the
work progressed, and sure enough, about the centre was found a deposit
of human bones, which are preserved and seen through a grate, after
passing the line of the passage by torchlight.
The communication by steamer to St. Petersburg is broken up by the
cholera, and the want of passengers, as imperial orders by the Emperor
to all Russian ministers forbid a passport to other than Russian
subjects. If I get into the Czar’s dominions it will be with courier
passport, as bearer of despatches, and by a circuitous route, via
Finland.
Northern Russia with Poland inclusive, being the only parts of Europe
I have not visited, and being now in the extreme north, I should much
regret not being able to visit those countries, which occupy so deeply
the minds of all philanthropists, and which exercise such a powerful
influence over the politics of Europe.
I am prepared to make some sacrifices and incur some risks, in order to
finish entirely the continental tour, and if I succeed will write you
from St. Petersburg.