From Copenhagen to Gottenburg, in Sweden, is about one hundred and
twenty-five miles. The steamer strikes up and through the Straits of
Cattegat, touching at Elsinore, the stronghold of the Danes, where
there is a beautiful citadel. Helsingburg, on the opposite shore, is
visible to the naked eye. The Danes yet adhere to an old custom, and
demand tribute of all vessels navigating the North Sea and the Baltic,
traversing the Straits, but without a shadow of justice.
Gottenburg is considerable of a commercial city, with a population of
forty thousand, and carries on a large trade with England and other
countries in lumber from the interior of Sweden, via the canals and
lakes. They have here some large cotton mills, sugar refineries, and
the largest porter brewery, for the supply of all Sweden, that I have
seen on the continent, except in London, and which strangers are
directed to as a curiosity. I saw here a full cargo of cotton just
arrived from New Orleans, and also one hundred bales of American hops.
Our treaty with Sweden is a bad one. They have all the advantages of
the carrying trade, and in return they tax our products at a high rate.
We are taking large quantities of iron annually from that country, and
some attention should be given to our trade with Sweden by those whose
business it is to attend to such matters.
The Danes and Norwegians speak one language, but the latter give more
force to the words, and are not so effeminate as the former. The
Swedish is another language, but it bears resemblance to that, similar
to the affinity between the Spanish, Italian, and Portuguese tongues.
I have met with many persons who spoke English, as might have been
expected, there is so much trade with that country.
From Gottenburg, by steamer along the coast of Sweden, one enters
the Gulf of Christiania, with its innumerable islands; touching at
the little towns which are engaged chiefly in the lumber and fishing
trade, and finally at the head of the gulf is seen the town from which
I write, with a population of some thirty thousand, carrying on an
extensive trade in lumber, fish, iron, &c. This whole northern country,
in the interior, from which I have just returned, having made an
excursion to the iron works, reminds one in many respects of the state
of Maine. The ship building, pine forests, and salmon fishery, bear
analogy to our northern latitude.
They have a great abundance of lobsters of the best quality. Very
little fruit is found here, except green apples, and the August
cherry, which is yet scarcely ripe; there are fewer flowers than in
Italy in the month of May. Such is the difference of duration of heat
between the climate of the sunny south, and the more rigid regions
of the north. They have yet no fear of the cholera, which is still
remote; but at Gottenburg we were kept in suspense for half an hour
by the quarantine officers, who suspected the disease had appeared in
Copenhagen, although we had a clean bill of health. The potato disease
has reached this country, and I see its ravages in many places.
The light summer nights--the day scarcely obscured--the Aurora
Borealis, or northern lights--the wild and romantic country of the
north--these things strike an inhabitant of the south of Europe who
visits this country for the first time.
The Norwegians are a fine race of men, of light, ruddy complexion, and
are capable of hard service. They are much attached to their country
and pine groves, yet the charm of freedom has drawn away many to our
own land. This is the only part of the world that I have yet visited,
where there are no Jews. Such is the horror of the race, that ancient
laws, interdicting their settlement here, have not been repealed,
although repeated efforts have been made. A Jew can only remain
twenty-four hours in the country.
There are no curious sights here, as in other old countries; things are
more premature, but there are some fine points of view, and nature puts
on her gayest attire. I was gratified, however, in visiting an immense
new prison in process of erection, for solitary confinement, to find
a faithful copy of one in Pennsylvania. A new palace for king Oscar,
who is obliged to pass a certain portion of the year here, is now
completing. It is a large structure, and for Norway, does very well.
The two governments of Norway and Sweden are subject to the one king,
but the former has many privileges secured to her.
One peculiarity I noticed along the Norwegian roads. Every owner of
land is obliged to keep his part in repair, and the line is marked by
stakes with a flat board, on which the name is painted; so that if the
road is impassable, the traveller knows of whom to make complaint.
The currency is all silver, with the exception of bank notes to the
value of about one dollar, and the expenses of life are nearly double
those of Denmark, as all the luxuries of life come from abroad. The
currency of Sweden, on the contrary, is almost all government paper,
and the rag currency reminds me of our shin-plaster days. A paper
rix-dollar is about twenty-five cents, and they have notes as low in
value as eight cents of our money; the consequence is, that in getting
a piece of coin changed of the value of an American dollar, you have a
pocketful of rags in exchange.
The steamers employed on these routes this season are more indifferent
than usual, as there are few passengers, and the best class of boats
have been hauled off for the use of the government. King Oscar is now
at Malmö, on the coast, within five hours of Copenhagen by sea, and has
his army all prepared for a move in case the Germans enter Denmark. For
the affair of Schleswig Holstein, which is debatable ground as to the
rights of the two countries, he will not interfere; but if the Germans
move an inch further into Denmark, then Norway and Sweden consider the
cause their own.