THEBES, UPPER EGYPT, _February 13, 1842_.
We left Cairo on the 24th of January, and arrived here after a passage
of twenty days. I must now recur to my journal to recount some of the
adventures of the voyage.
The first day we made but little progress against a strong current,
although we had all our Arab crew ashore, with ropes across their
breasts, pulling, and at night found ourselves moored among the reeds
of the island of Rhoda, where it is recorded that Moses was found by
the daughter of Pharaoh. While here, we were boarded by a Nubian, of a
dark, tall, and fine figure, bearing his orders in diamonds and sabre
by his side. Not knowing his designs, we desired him to be seated, and
following the custom of the country presented coffee and a pipe, when
he produced a paper in Arabic for the arrest of our reis, or captain,
who owed a certain sum of money. High words ensued, in which the
captain, crew, and domestics took part, and we, being determined not
to be detained, produced the firmans of the Sultan and Mehemet Ali,
stating that we could not be stopped, when he very politely concluded
to defer the arrest until the return of the barge. The second day the
scene had changed; with a fine wind and our tall sails spread to the
breeze, we were dashing against the rapid current, and making fine
progress, and leaving Cairo in the distance, when we suddenly found
ourselves upon a sand bank, which, as we have since found, is a thing
of frequent occurrence. Instantly ten or eleven naked Arabs and Barbary
negroes plunged into the river, and we soon found the boat lightened
and again under way. At night the wind ceased, and we drew up to the
bank, alongside of an Arab village, while the rays of the setting sun
gilded beautifully the mountains and the desert in the distance. The
village, surrounded with palm trees gently waving, and the rich verdure
of the plain, seemed to me more beautiful than ever. The morning of
the 26th, to our surprise, found the wind dead ahead and strong; I
started along the bank with my two companions shooting pigeons, which
are found in great abundance, and saw about two hundred Egyptians, a
large proportion half naked, employed in making dyes. Our appearance
and guns created a sensation. We frequently encountered groups of women
and girls with massive jugs, which, after having filled them with
Nile water, they put upon their heads and march off in line. Their
appearance differs from those in large cities, from their not having a
veil to cover their faces; but on our approach they endeavored to cover
them with a blue cotton shawl which is worn on the head and shoulders.
They are swarthy, with feet and ankles bare, their faces and hands
marked with a blue color resembling India ink; they wear many ornaments
about the neck, wrists, and even ankles, and not unfrequently rings in
the nose.
27th.--Wind still contrary, which is rare, as it usually blows from
the north during the winter months. Although our men tugged heavily
all day, we made very little progress. At night we halted at a small
village, where we found a caravan of men, women, and children, with
their camels, all reposing upon their mats and straw for the night,
whilst our Arab crew were gathered around a fire on the bank. Had an
eclipse of the full moon this evening, which has created an excitement
among the superstitious Arabs, causing many invocations to the prophet.
28th.--This is the most horrible and disagreeable day we have had upon
the Nile. The wind ahead, and blows a perfect gale; cannot change our
position. Yesterday was warm and delightful, but to-day extremely cold.
Our men are wrapped up in all the covering they can find, and we are
glad to confine ourselves to the cabin.
29th and 30th.--The wind still being against us, we were almost
discouraged with the prospect; but the ruins of immortal Thebes, which
had her hundred gates, were before us, and beckoned us on.
31st.--We made some progress to-day in towing, but no wind. Discovering
a mud village in the distance, I took an Arab servant with me, to
bring a supply of poultry, eggs, and mutton, which can be procured at
almost all places along the Nile. These articles, with a species of
cake called bread, are about all that can be procured, excepting in
the largest towns. On returning to the boat, I saw several mounted
horsemen, who were cautioning my companions not to go alone into the
villages, as four soldiers had just been killed by the villagers.
Feb. 4th.--I made my appearance again on deck, having been confined to
my bed for the last three days with cold and fever, from the effect of
checked perspiration. Fortunately, I had a medicine chest, to which I
am indebted for my quick recovery. In a country like Egypt, where no
medical attendance can be procured, it is all-important to be provided
with the necessary remedies; besides which, among the Arabs, who have a
great passion for medicine, one soon acquires distinction in the title
of “hakim.” Before our arrival at Thebes, three of our crew fell sick,
but a strong dose to each was sufficient to effect a cure, and they
seemed to feel under many obligations.
After the 4th, our prospects changed; the wind veered round to the
north, and we found our bark gliding along with great velocity, passing
some important towns and villages, with the determination to stop on
our return, not wishing to lose such a fine wind, which we held most
of the way to Thebes. In ascending the Nile new sights are continually
rising to view. In one place may be seen a herd of buffalo and camels,
quietly grazing upon the rich plain; while near at hand are discovered
half-a-dozen Egyptians, in a state of nature, raising water to irrigate
the soil, by buckets fastened to a pole, like our old-fashioned
well-poles. The next moment, perhaps, you discover fifteen or twenty
crocodiles, from ten to fourteen feet long, and as numerous as in the
days when the Egyptians worshipped them. As they lay basking in the
sun, we would give them a passing shot, which would shake their scaly
sides and send them tumbling in the water. Upon the Nile, one who is
fond of shooting, finds plenty of amusement, as pelicans, wild ducks,
geese, and eagles abound, and in many places are found the hyena,
gazelle, foxes, wolves, and other animals. The slave trade is still
continued from Dongola and Senaar. We saw one large boat descending
with upwards of one hundred on board, who were bought for a small sum,
or some article of necessity, from their parents, and were now wending
their way to the slave market at Cairo, or perhaps to Siout, where the
abominable traffic in eunuchs for the harems is still carried on. It is
to be hoped, under the enlightened government of Mehemet Ali, that the
latter detestable practice will be abandoned.
On arriving at Dendera, within a day’s sail of Thebes, we visited
the ruins of the temple, &c., which stands about a mile and a half
from the river, on the side of the desert, and occupies an area of
three and a half miles in circumference. It is the first temple one
sees on coming up the Nile, and is decidedly the best preserved one
in Egypt. It is impossible to describe this superb building, which I
found much more beautiful than I had expected, although considerably
choked up with sand and stones, and forming the centre of an Arab
village, which was abandoned from some cause or other. Their huts
not only surrounded it, but crowned the summit of the temple itself.
Nothing can exceed its magnificence. It is as rich in sculpture,
hieroglyphics, and mythological paintings, as the greatest lover of
antiquity could desire. Its dimensions are enormous. The vestibule,
or porch, has twenty-one figures along the ceiling, ending with the
vulture, the guardian genius of the kings and heroes of Egypt. On each
hand are three rows of columns, with three columns in each row--making
eighteen--which occupy the body of the vestibule. The exterior walls,
as well as the interior, and columns, are covered with sculptured
devices of the most remarkable execution: the winged globe, vulture,
hawk, ibis, Isis, Osiris, gods, goddesses, priests, and women, sacred
boats, with the sacred bulls which were formerly exhibited to the
admiring multitude. What is most remarkable is, that after the lapse of
two thousand years, the painting should appear, in many instances, as
if executed but a month ago. There are several other smaller temples
and gates of the city still standing, which are also full of interest.
Dendera, which was anciently called Tentyra, is situated near the west
bank of the Nile, about two hundred and sixty miles south by east of
Cairo, and its ruins bespeak its former greatness.
In my next I shall endeavor to give you some idea of the gigantic ruins
of Thebes, with Luxor and Karnak, which are said to have extended
twenty-three miles in circumference; and the valley of the Nile not
being able to contain them, their extremities rested upon the bases of
the mountains of Arabia and Africa.