TRIESTE, AUSTRIA, _Nov. 16, 1841_.
In my last communication from Milan, I promised to speak of the
charming lake called in Italian Lago Maggiore, and of the enchanting
islands, Isola Madre and Isola Bella. The lake is about forty or fifty
miles in length, and from four to six in breadth. Its shores are
lined with forest trees, olives, and vineyards, and here and there
are scattered villages and hamlets, some of which are remarkable for
elegance of construction. The two islands above named contain palaces
and gardens belonging to the family of San Carlo Boromeo. On visiting
the Isola Madre, which is about one and a half miles from the shore, we
were delighted on seeing, on the south side, four gardens, or rather
terraces, rising one above the other, embellished with luxuriant
flowers, shrubs, forest trees, all the tropical fruits, &c., in great
abundance, and crowned with a palace. But we were still more gratified
on visiting Isola Bella, about a mile distant, which is certainly the
most remarkable work of the kind I ever saw--it being a small island,
occupied entirely with gardens and the palace. It is said a great
proportion of the earth was originally carried there. The southern
exposure consists of eight terraces, rising one above the other,
carpeted with flowers, oranges, lemons, and other fruits in profusion,
and adorned with an immense number of statues. This great work is
supported by stone arches, which, together with the basement or lower
story of an immense palace, front a series of grottoes tastefully
fitted up, and for a summer abode delightful. The palace in itself is
magnificent, and loaded with all the valuables that wealth can bestow,
in sculpture, paintings, &c. The king of Sardinia has passed some time
at this agreeable spot. What is most remarkable is in the position of
the island, for during the winter, while the mountains in the vicinity
are covered with snow, here may be found all the tropical fruits and
rare plants from all parts of the world.
After leaving Lago Maggiore, we proceeded by diligence to Milan,
which is the capital of Lombardy, and the largest city in northern
Italy, its population being one hundred and fifty thousand. There are
many attractions in it calculated to detain a traveller, among the
principal of which is the Duomo, or cathedral, which is the largest in
Italy, excepting St. Peter’s at Rome. It is four hundred and forty-nine
feet long, two hundred and seventy-five broad, and the height two
hundred and thirty-six feet to the top of the cupola. It is divided
into five parts by one hundred and sixty columns of marble, and paved
with the same material. Under the cathedral is a sumptuously decorated
chapel, which was open while I was there, it being an anniversary,
and thousands during the day passed into the subterranean chapel to
see the remains of San Carlo Boromeo, which are inclosed in a crystal
sarcophagus, adorned with gold and silver gilt. His figure is encased
with superb robes, while his crosier and mitre rest by his side. His
countenance, with the exception of the nose, is pretty well preserved.
The interior of the chapel is also covered with marble, and gold and
silver gilding, extremely rich. In order to appreciate this immense
Gothic edifice, it is necessary to mount to the top of the cathedral,
four hundred and sixty-eight steps, where you can view the spires,
turrets, and exterior decorations, in white marble.
The triumphal arch of Napoleon, at the termination of the grand Simplon
road, is another great ornament to Milan. It is an immense work,
and crowned with a car, bearing the figure of Victory, drawn by six
colossal horses in bronze; there are also four other horses, of the
same material, standing on the four corners.
During the time I remained at Milan I made an excursion to the lake
of Como. At the village of Como I took a small steamer, which plies
upon the lake, and had an opportunity of seeing the beautiful gardens,
pleasure grounds, and orangeries which line the shores. Nothing can be
more delightful to the lover of fine scenery than an excursion upon
this lake.
While in Rome, last spring, I saw an original cast in plaster, ordered
by Napoleon, from the great sculptor Canova. It represented the triumph
of Alexander the Great, and was said to have been purchased at a sum
equal to fourteen thousand dollars, and was in a village upon the lake
of Como. I landed at the villa Sonimorira, and visited the grounds
and interior of this villa, or more properly speaking, palace, where
I had an opportunity of seeing this admirable piece of sculpture in
bas-relief, in white marble. It is attached to the wall. I made another
excursion to Monza, about twelve miles from Milan, which contains
a royal residence, well worth visiting; also a cathedral, where is
deposited the crown of the Lombard kings, called the “Iron Crown,”
because it is lined with an iron hoop, but of small size, and, as
the story goes, is composed of the nails with which our Saviour was
fastened to the cross. The outside of the crown of gold is studded
with precious stones. Charlemagne was crowned king of Lombardy with
it in the cathedral where it is deposited. The sacristy also abounds
with ornaments of gold, silver, diamonds, and other precious stones,
belonging to the church. There was an unusual degree of form and
ceremony before we could get to see this celebrated relic. After we had
obtained permission from the highest functionary, I was not a little
surprised to find that this relic was placed in the wall behind the
altar, making it necessary to ascend by ladder to unlock the double
doors, one of which was a part of the front of the altar; after which
many candles were lighted and two priests put on their robes and made
a short service, when an enormous cross of gold was produced, in the
centre of which was inclosed in crystal the crown already described;
for all of which our party paid five francs. I was rather credulous in
the belief of the story that the interior of the crown was made from
the nails of the cross, as I have already seen, in different parts of
Europe, more relics of the kind than were necessary for the crucifixion
of our Saviour.
After I left Milan I came to Verona, on the route to Venice, where
I tarried one day. Verona has its objects of curiosity, but not
sufficient to detain one who has seen the cities of southern Italy. The
ancient amphitheatre here is one of the most remarkable; it is more
perfect than any other in Italy. It accommodated twenty-three thousand
four hundred and eighty-four persons seated, according to report, and
is composed of large blocks of marble without cement. It is of an
oval form, four hundred and sixty-seven feet long and three hundred
and sixty-seven feet wide. The arena is two hundred and twenty-five
feet in length, and one hundred and thirty-three feet wide. There are
forty-five rows of seats encircling the arena. The exterior wall is
destroyed, but the other parts of this immense work of antiquity are
quite perfect. In the suburbs of Verona, in a building near the former
cemetery of a Franciscan convent, is a sarcophagus called the tomb of
Juliet, and made of Verona marble, with a place for her head, a socket
for a candle, and two holes for the admission of air. This sarcophagus
is nothing in itself, but associated with Shakespeare, and the history
of Romeo and Juliet, it is full of interest.
On arriving at Venice, I visited the palace of the Doges, the Basilica
of San Marco, the Bridge of Sighs, the Giant Stairs, the Rialto,
and several other parts of the city. Venice is about seven miles
in circumference, with a population of one hundred thousand. It is
situated in the midst of shallows called Lagunes, and stands mostly on
piles. It is entered in all directions by canals, which amount to some
hundreds, and bridges of stone without number. The streets are narrow,
frequently not exceeding six feet in width, but having shops on each
side, and then again many passages not exceeding four feet wide. There
are, however, many squares, but they are not generally large. The Place
of St. Mark, upon which is situated many of the principal buildings,
is magnificent, and presents a lively scene. The only conveyance is in
gondolas, which traverse all parts of the city, and are a necessary
appendage to every family. One is induced to pronounce it a singular
and beautiful city, because no other is like it.
It is surprising that the city should be supplied with all the
necessaries, comforts, and luxuries of life without any apparent
difficulty. Here are to be found thousands of persons who never saw the
bubbling of a fountain or the growth of the vegetables upon which they
subsist, who know not the use of a horse, and never saw such an animal,
who perhaps have never seen a tree.
On approaching Venice in a gondola it has the appearance of a city
submerged, while the steeples in the distance resemble the masts of
vessels. The silence is profound, and at first it appears dull. The
canals in general being the streets, the only noise to disturb the
tranquillity is that made by the oars and the cries of the gondoliers.
On leaving Venice I took the steamer for Trieste, the passage being
accomplished across the head of the Adriatic in from ten to twelve
hours ordinarily. As I depart to-morrow for Greece you may not expect
to hear from me again until after my arrival at Patras, or the Ionian
Islands.