BERLIN, PRUSSIA, _July 30, 1841_.
I arrived in this city the day following my last letter from
Wittemberg. Our approach to the capital of Prussia was through a dreary
plain of sand, destitute of either beauty or fertility, and differing
widely from the rich agricultural country through which I had been
travelling. It is surprising that the foundation of a city should have
been laid in so uninteresting a spot, and still more surprising that it
should have grown to be the capital of a great kingdom.
Frederic the Great, ambitious to have a capital in proportion to his
extended dominions, inclosed a vast space with walls, and ordered it
to be filled with houses; the consequence is that the streets are very
broad, and regularly laid out. One street, called Friedrichstrasse,
is two miles long, and has not a foot of descent from one end to the
other. Berlin has been termed a city built for effect, all that is
exceedingly beautiful being concentrated in one focus. The palaces,
museum, arsenal, opera-houses, some of the finest churches, and other
magnificent buildings, are quite contiguous. The street on which they
stand is at least two hundred feet wide, with four rows of linden
trees running the entire length of it. The central grand promenade for
pedestrians has rows of trees on each side, then comes the equestrian
road on the right and left, with one row of trees on each side, after
which are the carriage roads and side walks, on both sides of this
great avenue. The river Spree, a small stream which runs through the
city, communicates with the Elbe, and by means of canals with the Oder,
the Baltic, and the German Sea, and is navigated by boats.
The population of Berlin is three hundred thousand. Owing to the
scarcity of stone the city is mostly built of brick, stuccoed and
painted, or colored in a variety of ways, which gives it a light
and beautiful appearance. Notwithstanding all its disadvantages of
situation Berlin is one of the most splendid cities in Europe. Few can
show so much architectural splendor as is seen in the colossal palace,
the beautiful colonnade of the new museum, and many other buildings.
The Brandenburg Gate, one of the principal ornaments of the city, is
probably the most splendid portal in Europe, built after the model of
the Propylæum at Athens, but larger. The Car of Victory on the top,
drawn by three horses, with the goddess in a standing position, was
taken to Paris by Napoleon, but the Prussians recovered it after the
battle of Waterloo.
The royal palace is of vast size, and gorgeously furnished. One
apartment, which is very splendid, and called the Knights’ Hall, has
a throne and sideboard covered with massive old plate of gold and
silver, large collections of paintings, one large chandelier of solid
crystal, the ball suspended from the bottom of which cost twenty-four
thousand dollars, and is larger than the crown of my hat. In the attic
story of the palace is the Cabinet of Art, occupying several rooms.
Among the most prominent objects of the large collection are Japanese
and Australian weapons, Chinese collections, cloaks of feathers from
the Sandwich Islands, works of art in ivory and gold, vast collections
of jewels, a model of a windmill made by Peter the Great with his own
hands while working as a ship carpenter in Holland, the robes of the
Order of the Garter, given by George IV., and those of the Order of
the Holy Ghost, given by Louis XVIII., to the late Prussian king. Some
of the relics are entirely national. The bullet that wounded Frederic
the Great in the battle of Rossbach in 1760; a wax figure, said to
resemble him, as a cast was taken after his death; he is clothed in
the same rusty and tarnished uniform he wore on the day of his death;
the scabbard of his sword is mended with sealing-wax by his own hand;
his books, flute, and cane lay before him on the table, also his
pocket-handkerchief, which is ragged and patched, and which he used to
the last.
Frederic the Great was certainly a singular character. Dr. Moore
says his whole wardrobe consisted of two blue coats faced with red,
the lining of one a little torn; two yellow waistcoats, considerably
soiled with snuff, and three pairs of yellow breeches. Here is also
a glass case containing the stars, orders, and decorations presented
to Napoleon by the different sovereigns of Europe, except England.
They were taken by the Prussians after the battle of Waterloo, in his
carriage, from which he escaped so narrowly that he left his cap behind
him, which is also preserved here.
The new museum is liberally thrown open to the public. It contains
a very extensive picture gallery; some of the paintings are good
originals, but most of them are copies, and in this branch of the
arts Berlin bears no comparison to the Italian cities. There are also
sculpture galleries, galleries of antiquities, collections of vases,
bronzes, &c. The vases amount to one thousand six hundred in number.
The ornithological collection in the University is one of the richest
and most extensive in Europe, comprising all classes of birds from
every quarter of the globe, the collections of Baron von Humboldt
and others. The Egyptian museum ranks very high, and is said to be
the most curious in Europe. Among the figures are those of various
Egyptian deities, with the symbols belonging to each, and worn on the
image. Among the mummies are not only those of human beings, but of the
animals worshipped by the Egyptians, such as cats, young crocodiles,
frogs, and lizards, all embalmed and wrapped in fine cloths. The most
interesting object is the contents of the tomb of an Egyptian High
Priest, discovered and opened in the Necropolis of Thebes. The body was
inclosed in a triple coffin, the work of which is most intricate and
extraordinary. All the specimens shown here of the produce of different
trades are calculated to give a good idea of the extent of civilization
and progress of the arts three thousand years ago in that country.
The Arsenal here is well worthy of a visit, as specimens of the arms
and accoutrements used in all parts of Europe are seen in great
abundance. Fire-arms used from the first invention of gunpowder to
the present time; two leather cannons used by the great Gustavus in
the Thirty Years’ War, are shown; many ancient weapons and suits of
armor; and against the walls hang upwards of one thousand standards
taken during the campaigns that overthrew Napoleon. About five miles
from the city is Charlottenburg, a small village on the Spree, made
mostly of villas, for the summer residence of the rich, and taverns to
accommodate others who resort there from Berlin.
At Charlottenburg is a palace built by Frederic the Great, the grounds
about which are exceedingly beautiful, and open to the public, being
finely laid out and constantly thronged. Arms of the Spree run through
them, and the waters abound with carp as large as shad, which come up
to the surface on the ringing of a bell, and are so tame that any one
may feed them. The interior of the palace, which may be seen by feeing
the Castellan, as he is called, is very interesting, and gorgeous in
silver and gold decorations, Gobelin and Prussian tapestry, statuary
and paintings. The length of the entire building, furnished complete,
is six hundred feet. We were shown the room that Napoleon occupied
during his stay here. It had been previously occupied by the queen, but
she never would stay there afterwards, but took another apartment. One
of the most attractive objects is the beautiful statue of Queen Louisa,
said to have been one of the most beautiful and amiable princesses of
her day. She is buried within a small Doric temple, at the extremity
of a shady walk, in a retired part of the garden. The work is by
Rauch, of Berlin, and is not surpassed by any modern work of art.
The figure of the queen reposes on a sarcophagus of beautiful white
marble, and as Russell describes it, “it is a form and face of the most
exquisite beauty, but at the same time a most perfect resemblance.”
The expression is not that of cold death, but of undisturbed repose,
the hands being modestly folded on the breast, and the attitude easy,
graceful, and natural. Only the countenance and part of the neck
are bare, the rest of the figure is shrouded in drapery beautifully
wrought. There is no inscription, or catalogue of titles, but simply
the Prussian eagle at the head and foot of the sarcophagus, with four
lions at the corners to support it.