years is that everything is sacrificed to size and appearance, flavour
being at a discount; the shows have had a great deal to do with this; in
the old days, when they were fewer in number, the test of a fruit was its
taste. =Strawberries= in particular have deteriorated in this way, the
huge kinds now seen often being absolutely devoid of the luscious flavour
generally associated with them. Of course we have =better keeping
varieties=, and they can be obtained much later than was once the case. If
the culture of the perpetual varieties is extended strawberries will be in
season many weeks longer, and this will be extremely good news for
invalids, who find it as a rule one of the easiest fruits to digest. =The
cultivation of strawberries is fairly easy=, but their wants must be
regularly attended to. Once in three years the old plants must be taken
up, and new ones (the "runners" issuing from the old) planted instead; in
the summer a good mulching of strawy manure should be placed between the
rows, as this helps to keep the fruit clean, besides enriching the soil.
Plants which are expected to bear a good crop of fruit must have all their
runners cut off as fast as they appear, as it exhausts the plants much to
bear both. =Strawberries are partial to rather a light soil=, but nearly
all other fruit-trees revel in a mixture of loam and clay, with a little
sand to keep it open. This soil does not suffer so much from drought, and,
being firmer, the larger trees can send their roots down and get a far
better hold of the ground than is possible in shingly, poor soils.
=ORNAMENTAL AND USEFUL.= =Vegetables= take up a good deal of room in a
garden if they are wanted all the year round, but a few things can be
easily grown. =Scarlet runner beans=, being ornamental as well as useful,
are some of the best vegetables to grow, as they can be made to form a
convenient screen for a rubbish heap. These can be brought up from seed
sown early in April, and, when a foot high, require sticks; these come
rather expensive if new ones are used every summer, but with care they
will last two and even three seasons, though latterly they become very
brittle. On the rubbish heap, =marrows= can be grown with the greatest
facility, as they revel in the rich warmth there found. They should be
bought when a few inches high, and planted out at the end of May, as they
are only half hardy. When the flower at the end drops off they are ready
to cut; if allowed to get much larger they lose all their flavour. A few,
however, should be allowed to become quite ripe, as they can be used in
the autumn for making apple-tart, two parts apple to one part marrow, and
they also make =a good jam= when spiced with ginger, etc.
=RELATIONS OF THE SUNFLOWERS.= =Jerusalem artichokes= will flourish on a
north border, and come in very nicely during November; they are planted in
exactly the same manner as potatoes, that is, by means of pieces
containing two or three "eyes," which should go in about February. Like
potatoes, too, they can be stored; though so tall, they do not require any
sticks; these artichokes present much the same appearance as the ordinary
cottager's sun-flower (indeed, the botanical name is identical,
_helianthus_), having thick, hollow stems, covered with long, pointed,
hairy leaves.
=Potatoes are rather "kittle-kattle"= for amateurs, but where the soil is
light they should certainly be tried, especially where there is room for a
rotation of crops, as successive planting should not be made in the same
place. Beware of giving rank manure to them, a sure precursor of disease;
artificial manures, such as guano are far more suitable. =No trees must be
allowed near them=, but a sunny open piece of ground be given up to them.
March is the month to plant and the rows should be from fifteen inches to
two feet apart.
=Carrots and turnips= also prefer a light soil and sunny situation. Seeds
of both should be sown in March, when the soil is in a friable condition,
several times subsequently; the seeds must be well thinned out, and the
space between the rows constantly turned by the hoe; the latter operation
is particularly needful in heavy land, as it not only destroys weeds, but
prevents the soil from caking: the rows should be about a foot apart.
Before the turnips are ready, the young green tops make a vegetable by no
means to be despised.
=Herbs=, such as mint, parsley, mustard and cress, should be grown in
every garden, as they take up but little space and are so much dearer to
buy. =Mint= is perennial, and will come up year after year, giving no
trouble whatever; it spreads rapidly and will grow anywhere. To start a
bed, roots can be bought from some market-gardener, or cuttings can be
struck from the bunches bought in the shops.
=Parsley= is a biennial, though generally grown as an annual, because the
leaves from young plants are much the best; the seeds should be sown two
or three times a year, beginning about February, in a sheltered nook;
=this herb likes plenty of sun=; even the curliest varieties degenerate
if placed in a damp shady situation. It prefers light soil, and gives a
better winter supply than where the soil is heavy. Flower-heads must be
cut off regularly to keep the plants in good condition, though just a few
of the best kinds may be allowed to perfect their seed, which should be
sown as soon as ripe. =Mustard and cress= should also be sown several
times during the summer; the cress must be sown three or four days before
the mustard, to obtain them ready for cutting at the same time; both must
be cut almost directly they appear, as, if allowed to grow tall, they
become tough, and their flavour is lost; these seeds require no thinning
out, the exception that proves the rule.
CHAPTER XIII
Annuals and Biennials
_How to grow annuals--Some good kinds--Some good biennials._
Many amateurs look upon annuals as rubbishy things to grow, and only
suitable for the children's gardens, but that is because they have
generally failed to grow them properly. With the improved kinds now in
cultivation, it is possible to make the portion of the flower-garden
devoted to them "a thing of beauty" if not "a joy for ever." As it is more
satisfactory to bring them up from the beginning, I have described in
Chapter XVI. a method generally successful. =Seed-sowing out-of-doors=
being rather precarious, I have found it advisable to =sow all the smaller
seeds either in a green-house or frame=, however hardy the annual be. This
not only saves endless trouble in the way of protecting the seed from
birds, etc., but is advantageous in that one has an earlier display of
bloom, owing to the growth being quicker under glass. Below is a table of
the choicest kinds:--
ANNUALS.
NAME. LENGTH. COLOUR.
Bartonia aurea 1 to 1-1/2 ft. Golden yellow.
Celosia plumosa 1-1/2 ft. Red and yellow.
(Somewhat after the style of Prince's feather; tender.)
Coreopsis (or Calliopsis) 2 ft. Yellow and red.
Eschscholtzia 1 ft. Bright yellow.
(Very pretty grey-green foliage; select.)
Gaillardia 1-1/2 ft. Yellow and red.
(The "blanket flower"; good for cutting.)
Godetia 9 ins. Red to white.
(Cup-shaped; showy.)
Mesembryanthemum 1/2 to 1 ft. Ice plant.
(Grown for its foliage, which glistens beautifully; must have sun.)
Ionopsidium acaule 2 to 3 ins. Pale mauve.
(Miniature plants for filling up crevices in rockwork.)
Linum coccineum 1 ft. New scarlet variety.
Lupinus arboreus,
"Snow-queen" 3 to 4 ft. Pure white.
(A very stately plant; new.)
Nemophila grandiflora 1/2 ft. Beautiful blue and white.
(Remind one of the eyes of a child.)
Phlox drummondi 1 ft. All shades of red to white
(Half-hardy; must be massed.)
Shirley poppy 1 ft. All shades of pink.
(Very graceful and free; light soil.)
Portulaca 1/2 ft. Mixed colours.
(The most effective of all annuals; half-hardy; must have plenty of
sun and a light soil.)
Salpiglossis 1-1/2 ft. All shades.
(Very fragile flowers, veined and marked in exquisite fashion; must
be massed.)
Silene pendula compacta 1/2 ft. Bright pink.
(Flowers shaped somewhat like a Maltese cross.)
Stocks, double, ten-week 1 ft. Various.
(When thinning, only keep the weakest seedlings, as those are the
double ones.)
BIENNIALS.
These, if sown one spring, will not flower the following summer, but do so
the year after.
NAME. LENGTH. COLOUR.
Fox-gloves 3 to 4 ft. White and coloured
(White, most picturesque; all do well in shade; unless seed is required,
cut out main stem, when side shoots will flower.)
Lunaria biennis 1-1/2 to 2 ft. The old "honesty."
(Much prized for its silvery seed-pods.)
Polyanthus 1/2 ft. Mixed colours.
(Admirable for shady places; water well.)
Japanese pinks 1 ft. Deepest crimson to white.
(Fringed petals; a whole bed of this is lovely.)
Sweet Williams 1 ft. Mixed shades.
(Auricula type, the best; there is a novelty, blackish-maroon in shade,
which should be placed amongst some of the crimson varieties.)
Snap-dragons 2 ft. Varied.
(Flower from June to November; eschew reds of a mauve hue.)
Wallflower, "Ruby Gem" 2 ft. Reddish violet.
The seeds of all these, true to name and ripe for germination, may be
obtained from Messrs. Barr, Long Ditton, Surrey, who sell sixpenny packets
of all these kinds; small quantities of the well-known sorts only costing
threepence. This is a =great advantage to owners of small gardens=, as one
does not wish to give 1s. 6d. or 2s. 6d. for perhaps two thousand seeds of
one variety, when only two or three dozen are required. Penny packets of
seeds may be had from the One and All Company at most greengrocer's, and
are really wonderful value for the money.
CHAPTER XIV
Window Boxes
_How to make them--Relation of box to residence they are intended to
adorn--Suitable soil--Window plants for different aspects._
Where gardens are small, one seems to need window boxes more than where
there is land and to spare. They add to the number of one's flowers, and,
if carefully looked after, decidedly =improve the appearance of a house=.
That is a large "If" though, for unkempt boxes only make it look untidy.
=FLOWERS FIRST, BOX SECOND.= Though the tiled sort obtain a good deal of
patronage, nothing really looks much better than boxes covered with virgin
cork, if constantly renewed, for it acts as =a foil to the flowers=,
whereas patterned tiles are rather apt to take one's attention away from
them. In summer, certainly, they have the advantage of preserving the
earth in a moist condition, and in smoky towns they help to give a bright,
clean look to the houses so decorated. Old-fashioned houses, however,
should always have their window boxes made in the virgin cork style, as
they accord better with their surroundings.
When strong wooden boxes have been procured, it is quite easy to tack on
the cork one's self, provided one has a sharp knife and a good supply of
long nails, and it is =most fascinating work=; it is advisable to wear
gloves during the process, as the hands may become rough otherwise. Seven
pounds of the cork may be had for a shilling of any seedsman, and three
lots will do two boxes of the average size. =The soil should be fairly
light=, like that used for potting, but before the boxes are filled,
several holes, bored with a red-hot poker, should be made in the bottom,
and a thin layer of "crocks" spread over them; do not quite fill the box
with soil, but leave an inch or two free to allow of watering, and even
more if a layer of moss or =cocoa-nut fibre= is used to cover the surface
of the soil; this is certainly an improvement till the plants get large
enough to cover it themselves. Only =artificial manures= must be used to
fertilize the roots, and even those must not be given too often, but only
in the hot weather, when growth is quick, as they are stimulating to a
great degree.
=Constant renewals are necessary=, if the boxes are to look gay all the
year round; even the best gardeners acknowledge this. If continuous
bloomers are chosen, however, the cost is considerably modified. Perhaps
the =winter shrubs= are the most expensive item; yet they are often chosen
without much regard to cheerfulness; indeed, the favourite kinds present a
most funereal appearance.
=Aspect= has always a good deal to do with the selection of plants, but in
the case of windows facing north and east, it is the cold winds more than
the absence of sun which restricts the choice. Shelter is a great factor
in their well-being.
=SHOWY IN WINTER.= In a cosy box with a western exposure, and protected on
the north, the golden-tipped _retinosporas_ make =a pretty show during the
cold months= of the year, and form a welcome change from the prevailing
dark green tones. _Cotoneasters_, _pernettyas_, and the variegated
_euonymus_ are also very suitable. The polypody ferns, being evergreen,
look very well too, and =will thrive facing all four points of the
compass=. In the spring, =dwarf wall-flowers=, interspersed with different
kinds of bulbs, make the boxes look bright, and the new _pyrus maulei_ is
also very pretty at this season. The =perennial candytuft=, too, is a
splendid flower for late spring, particularly _iberis correafolia_, which
has a neat habit, and bears quantities of snow-white flowers; it likes
sun, and not too much moisture. The =yellow jasmine=, which is so pretty
in winter, looks extremely well when allowed to droop over the edges of a
box, as it flowers in quite a young state. The mossy _saxifrages_ are
suitable for the edges of the box, and are always ornamental; their
charming white flowers, supported on red stalks, appear about May.
Such =bulbs= as the Duc Van Thol tulips are very bright, and mix well with
the shrubs; they should be put in some time in October. =Crocuses= look
well, too, but should not be placed in the same box as the tulips, or too
gaudy an appearance will result. A thick planting along the front of the
box of the Starch hyacinth--_muscari_--is =uncommon=, and an exceedingly
nice thing to have, as the moment the window is open fragrant whiffs,
resembling new-mown hay, pour into the room, especially on a sunny
morning. When these bulbs have to make way for the summer flowers, it is
advisable to plant them out in the garden and use another lot next year,
as the =constant transplantation somewhat weakens them=. Of course, one
could leave them in the box during the summer, if it were not for the
unsightly decaying leaves, which =must on no account be cut off=.
About the middle of May for the South of England, and a fortnight later
for the North, is the time to furnish the boxes for the summer. If the
window is small, low-growing plants and trailers should prevail.
=FOR COLD ASPECTS.= Some good flowers for north and east aspects are
_fuschias_, _calceolarias_, _begonias_, and the lovely white _campanula
isophylla_; the latter thrives best in such conditions, bearing finer
flowers for a much greater length of time than where the sun scorches it.
=These plants accord well with stucco=, which serves to show up their
whiteness more than anything. =Marguerites=, yellow and white, also thrive
in the cooler windows of a house, and are not so exigent in the matter of
watering when so placed. When selecting =begonias= for boxes it is well to
choose the single varieties with moderate-sized blossoms; the big flabby
ones soon become spoilt by rain, and are not produced so freely, nor is
their habit of growth so good.
=For hot situations= the double geraniums are splendid, but they should
not be mixed with lobelias, as they look infinitely better when grouped by
themselves, the shades ranging from dark crimson to the palest
salmon-pink.
=PRETTY TRAILERS.= The quick-growing _tradescantia_ with its many-jointed
stems and glossy bright green leaves, softens =the somewhat formal
appearance of the geraniums=, and will cover all the bare soil in a
marvellously short space of time, and droop over the edges in long
streamers; it is quite distinct from the tall _tradescantias_ mentioned in
a former chapter, and is the easiest thing in the world to propagate, as
any little bits saved over from a bouquet will make roots in a bowl of
water, or they can be "struck" in the ordinary way in a pot under glass.
The variegated _tradescantia_ is =a very choice trailer=, but a little
more tender than the other, and requires a sunny position, while the plain
green variety will do anywhere outside in the summer, even growing well
under trees.
=For autumn= there are the =hardy chrysanthemums=, and if dwarf varieties
with fibrous roots are chosen, a very good show can be made with these
till the middle or end of November. The protection afforded them by the
house keeps them in good condition longer than when they are in the open,
especially when a thin veiling, such as tiffany, is afforded them on cold
nights. Even newspapers will keep out several degrees of frost, and form a
very cheap method of protection.
CHAPTER XV
Table Decoration and Flowers in Season
_Graceful arrangement--How to manage thick-skinned
stems--Colour-schemes--Bad colours for artificial light--Preserving
and resuscitating--Table of flowers in season._
The fashion of decorating tables to the extent now done is of
comparatively recent date. When the duties were taken off the importation
of foreign flowers, they became so much lower in price that the great
middle-class could afford to buy some even in mid-winter. In the British
Isles themselves, too, the carriage of flowers is much cheaper and more
expeditious, though there is plenty of room for improvement still in that
respect. =The manner of arranging= them has much altered, for, instead of
cramming a clumsy vase to its utmost limits with a dozen different flowers
of as many shades, only one, two, or at most three, kinds are now used,
and these are set out in as =graceful and airy= a manner as possible.
=Plain glass vases=, as a rule, show the blossoms off best, though pale
green or ruby occasionally looks very well. The water need not be changed
every day in all cases; it depends on the flower; wall-flowers, for
instance, turn the water putrid very soon, while it keeps fresh much
longer where roses are concerned. =The vases should, however, be filled up
once a day=, as the stems suck up moisture rapidly. Hard-wooded flower
stalks should receive special attention, or they will droop directly.
=STEM-SPLITTING.= Lilac, when cut and placed in water will absorb no more
moisture than a lead pencil, unless the stems are split up; this can be
done either with a hammer or a knife or both. As many leaves as possible
should be left on the stems, for when under water they largely help to
make the blossoms last well; it is only where the stalks are nearly
leafless that the splitting and peeling is necessary.
=Maidenhair fern may be made to last= much longer if the end of the black,
wiry stem is hammered for about an inch up.
It must not be forgotten that =cutting from a plant strengthens it=, and
induces it to continue sending up flower-stalks. People often seem chary
of cutting their roses with any length of stem, I suppose because it has
leaves and shoots all the way up, but this is an error; they should be cut
with about eight or ten inches of stalk; pansies and _violas_ also look
much more natural when a portion of the shoot is cut along with each
blossom.
=BY PARCEL POST.= On hot summer days, when flowers are to be sent by post,
=they should be picked early in the morning=, several hours before they
are to be sent off, and placed in bowls of water; then, if they are packed
close together in tin, wood, or even card-board boxes they will arrive
quite fresh at their destination, where otherwise they would be hopelessly
faded. When a box of flowers is received, the contents should be put =in
luke-warm water= in a dim light for an hour or so; they can then be
re-arranged in the vases they are intended to occupy.
=BLUE--A DAYLIGHT COLOUR.= Some colours respond to artificial light much
better than others. =Most shades of blue are not suitable for decorating
dinner tables=, because they turn almost brown, or at best a dull mauve.
In choosing violets, therefore, for evening wear, it will be found that
the blossoms which have thin, rather washed-out petals of the lightest
purple will look best, the full blue not being nearly so effective. =For
luncheon=, an arrangement of purple clematis in vases on the palest pink
ground is lovely, but does not look quite so well by gas-light, though
here again if the least velvety flowers are chosen for evening, a good
effect can be obtained.
=Yellow is a splendid evening colour=, but must be bright, or it will look
merely cream. A dining-room panelled in light oak, adorned with yellow
marguerites alone, is very pleasing to the eye. In the spring, =laburnum
makes a novel dressing for a dining-table=; care, however, must be
exercised with this flower, as the pods are poisonous. Blue also looks
well with brown in the day-time; larkspurs, forget-me-nots, _plumbago_,
_campanulas_, _nemophilla_, etc., all look very well. We know how artistic
blue porcelain is on oak shelves, and, if the flowers have a white eye or
are veined with white, the effect is somewhat the same. =Scarlet is a good
gas or electric light colour=, but it must be used judiciously, and as a
rule only be mixed with white, just as the ladies at a regimental ball are
generally only allowed to robe themselves in this pure shade.
=SIMPLICITY.= Now-a-days the decorations are rarely made so high that one
cannot see the other side of the table. Though this arrangement might
occasionally be useful in hiding the face of an enemy, on the whole it was
found inconvenient; accordingly they have climbed down; the "bazaar-stall"
fashion is also disappearing, and flat table-centres are used instead, or
none at all. Simplicity is the great cry now, and though of course it may
be costly, a charming effect is obtained with fewer flowers than was
formerly considered correct, and is moreover easily imitated by an
artistic eye in less expensive blossoms.
Some of the flowers to be had in each respective season are enumerated on
p. 86. It will be noticed that where plenty of out-door blossoms are to be
had, the hot-house varieties are omitted.
TABLE OF NATURAL AND FORCED FLOWERS FOR EACH MONTH.
JANUARY.
_Natural._
Christmas rose.
Yellow jasmine.
_Forced._
Carnations.
Eucharis.
Gardenias.
Poinsettias.
Tuberoses.
Late chrysanthemums.
Roman hyacinths.
Odontoglossum (orchid).
Tulips.
Violet, single and double.
Narcissus.
FEBRUARY.
_Natural._
Christmas roses.
Yellow jasmine.
Daphne.
Snowdrops.
_Forced._
White lilac.
Carnation.
Hyacinths.
Tulips.
Geraniums.
Marguerites.
Cattleya (orchid).
Camellias.
Roses.
Dicentra.
Narcissus.
MARCH.
_Natural._
Violets.
Early narcissus.
Almond blossom.
Cowslips.
Polyanthus.
_Forced._
Freesias.
Lily of the valley.
Arums.
Narcissus.
Mauve lilac.
Anemones.
Lilium Harrisii.
" longiflorum.
Roses.
Azaleas.
APRIL.
_Natural._
Daffodils.
Wallflowers.
Forget-me-not.
Tulips.
Alyssum.
Anemones.
Doronicums.
_Forced._
Sweet peas.
Roses.
Carnations.
Arums.
Lilies of the valley.
Alliums.
Acacia.
Epacris.
MAY.
_Natural._
Laburnum.
Poet's eye narcissus.
Doronicums.
Trollius.
Iris.
Parrot tulips.
Lilies of the valley.
Syringa.
Lilac.
Ranunculus.
_Forced._
Arums.
Ixias.
Gladiolus (scarlet and white).
JUNE.
_Natural._
Sweet peas.
Roses.
Pinks.
Pyrethrums (single).
Larkspurs.
Canterbury bells.
Penstemons.
Lilies.
Columbines.
Flag iris and other iris.
JULY.
_Natural._
Clematis.
Montbretias.
St. John's wort.
Campanulas.
Poppies (to be picked in the bud).
Carnations.
Cornflowers.
Indian pinks.
Erigeron (like an early Michaelmas daisy).
Gladiolus.
AUGUST.
_Natural._
Clematis.
Coreopsis.
Gaillardias.
Snapdragons.
Sunflowers.
Gladiolus.
Dahlias.
Roses.
Carnations.
SEPTEMBER.
_Natural._
Michaelmas daisies.
Pinks.
Chrysanthemums.
Lilies.
Sunflowers.
Japanese anemones.
Roses.
_Forced._
Tuberoses.
Cattleyas.
Eucharis.
Gardenias.
OCTOBER.
_Natural._
Michaelmas daisies.
Chrysanthemums.
Physalis (or Cape gooseberry).
Violets.
Single Marigolds.
_Forced._
Salvias.
Marguerites.
Tuberoses.
Eucharis.
Odontoglossum.
Cattleya.
Bouvardia.
Roses.
Carnations.
NOVEMBER.
_Natural._
Michaelmas daisies.
Chrysanthemums.
The gladwin iris (berries).
Violets.
_Forced._
Eucharis.
Geraniums.
Marguerites.
Salvias.
Carnations.
Chrysanthemums.
Odontoglossum.
Cattleya.
Bouvardia.
Camellias.
DECEMBER.
_Natural._
Yellow jasmine.
Christmas roses.
_Forced._
Salvias.
Cypripediums.
Violets.
Poinsettias.
Geraniums.
Chrysanthemums.
Lilies of the valley.
Roman hyacinths.
Coelogyne (orchid).
Narcissus in variety.
=The cost of a flower is always in proportion to its blooming time.= If
lilies of the valley are wanted in August, they must be paid for heavily,
as retarded bulbs (those which have been kept in ice) are used to produce
them.
CHAPTER XVI
The Propagation of Plants
_By dividing--By cuttings--By seeds--By layers._
=Propagation may be affected in various ways=, of which division is
perhaps the easiest. It must be done very carefully, or decay will set in.
Some plants lend themselves to this form of propagation very readily; in
others, the root stock is single and obviously resents division, wherefore
it is better to try another plan. The Michaelmas daisies are good
instances of the first kind; their roots are fibrous, and soon take to the
new soil; it is tap-rooted plants which dislike division so much.
=CAREFUL DIVISION.= It is advisable to divide most plants in the growing
season, which is from spring to early autumn; if it is done in the winter
months, each piece frequently remains quite inert and eventually rots. The
plant should be taken up, with a fork by preference, and then pulled
carefully apart with the hand. =The smallest fragment of the old white
anemone will grow=, but few plants will stand quite so much division. Each
piece should be well watered as it is planted, and if the sun is hot some
shade improvised. Such things as _delphiniums_, _phloxes_, _campanulas_,
and quick-growing subjects in general, should not be left too long without
being divided, or the flowers will dwindle, and the plants become
straggling in habit.
A good many plants which might be propagated by =division= of the roots
are propagated instead by cuttings, as the flowers come finer in every
way, and of course this method suits many plants which cannot be divided.
Chrysanthemums present few difficulties; though the ultimate growth of
this Japanese plant entails a vast amount of labour (if prizes are the
object in view), yet cuttings from them are the easiest things possible to
strike, even easier than a geranium, as there is no damping off. =Cuttings
are generally struck under glass=, this method being the surest, even with
hardy plants. The shoots selected should be well ripened, and the cut made
squarely below a joint and be =taken with a "heel"= if possible, that is,
with a piece of the old wood attached. All but the topmost leaves should
be pinched off, and then the cuttings must be inserted round the sides of
the pot, and the soil well pressed down,--the best cuttings in the world
cannot make roots unless this be attended to. After that a good watering
should be given them, and the pots set in a shady place till they have
emitted roots, which may be known by the fact of their beginning to make
new leaves. Some cuttings root better when the cut is allowed to form a
"callus," which in warm weather only takes a few hours.
=Rose cuttings= root very well out of doors on a north border, and trees
produced in this manner are often very satisfactory, but they take a long
while to come to a flowering stage, somewhat trying the patience of ardent
amateurs.
One can gradually get quite a nice collection of interesting plants, by
striking all the likely shoots in the different bunches of flowers
received from friends, but it is generally best to identify them as soon
as possible, so as to give each the right treatment.
=Propagation by seed= is quite a fascinating employment, and is a
successful method, if pains are taken; though so many amateurs seem to
fail. I have found it the safest plan, with all except the largest seeds,
to bring them up under glass. Even the hardiest can be treated in this
way, and one feels so much more sure of the result. For one thing, birds
cannot get at them, therefore there is no need to make a network of black
cotton to keep them off; neither can the cat meddle with them, and we all
know pussy is a very bad gardener.
=The pans= specially sold for the purpose are the best, but pots will do
very well. Fill them with fine moist soil, and press firmly down; then
scatter the seed thinly on the top, and only cover with a slight layer of
soil, afterwards placing in a dark corner. Where the seed is very small,
do not cover with any mould at all, but, as an extra protection, place a
piece of cardboard over the top of the pot, so that they shall not be
blown away. =Seeds like a still atmosphere=, moisture, warmth, and
darkness. Seeds and seedlings must not be watered in the ordinary way, but
the pan containing them should be placed in a saucer of water, when enough
moisture will be drawn up by capillary attraction. Thinning is extremely
necessary; every plant must be given room to attain its full dimensions;
where this is not done, the result is most unsatisfactory. As regards the
=time for sowing=, of course, spring is the most usual, but in the case of
annuals it will often be found a good plan to sow a few in autumn, as, by
pursuing this method, nice stocky little plants are ready for the garden
quite early in the season, and give flowers long before spring-sown seed
could possibly do so.
=Propagation by layering= is very useful, as cuttings of some plants will
not strike readily. Strong shoots are denuded of their leaves for a few
inches, and their stems slit up and pressed into the ground by means of a
peg; when firmly rooted, they can be detached from the parent plant by
means of a penknife. Carnations are generally reproduced in this way, as
it is the surest method of all.
CHAPTER XVII
The Management of Room Plants
_Best kinds for "roughing" it--Importance of cleanliness--The proper
way of watering them._
The majority of English women like to see their rooms, and specially their
drawing-rooms, adorned with =growing plants=.
Nevertheless, a great many do not cultivate them successfully, so a few
hints will not be amiss. =Constant attention= is needed to keep plants in
perfect health, and this is exactly what is so often denied them. A lady
buys two or three ferns that take her fancy, and feels for a while quite
interested in their welfare; but, after a week or so, she leaves them to
take care of themselves, which means to dwindle, and ultimately die. Many
shillings, therefore, are constantly being spent in renewing plants which,
with proper care, should last for years.
All room plants =must be looked after daily=, a few minutes every morning
being far better than an hour once a week, which is all they receive in
some homes.
I will treat first of =palms=, which, though such slow-growing subjects,
seem the favourite of all for home decoration, owing to their grace of
form and good lasting properties. If you observe the roots of most palms,
you will see that, attached in an odd way to the rising stem is =a sort of
bulb=, not unlike a pigmy potato. This excrescence, which should only be
covered by a thin layer of soil, stores up nutriment for the plant's use,
in much the same way as a hyacinth or daffodil does. This accounts in a
great measure for its power in enduring dryness of the soil without
flagging, which property, however, should not be abused. Palms should be
watered as regularly, though not so often, as more sappy plants.
=THE CORRECT WAY TO WATER.= Numbers of people do not know how to give
water in the correct way, whereby the florist prospers! =The golden rule=
is never to water a plant until it requires it, and then to do it
thoroughly. It is fatal merely to moisten the top of the soil, and to
leave the deeper roots dry. First give =a sharp tap to the pot=; if it
rings, water is required; if, on the contrary, a dull sound is given out,
the soil is wet enough. Lifting a pot is a sure test too, as one's hand
soon becomes accustomed to the difference in weight of a moist and dry
pot; the former, of course, being so much heavier. Always see that the
water runs through the hole at the bottom of the pot, then you may be sure
that each particle of soil is wet, and not till then. If you possibly can,
it is best to =use water of a corresponding temperature to that of the
room they are in=; this is most important with delicate plants. Large,
shiny, horizontal-leaved plants require a weekly sponging to remove the
inevitable dust which settles on them. =Gloves should be worn= while this
is being done, as contact with the skin turns the edges of the leaves
yellow; also gloves, of course, help to keep the hands soft and white.
Plants with large leaves should never be watered overhead, unless
immediately wiped dry, as each drop allowed to stand on the leaf turns
yellow, rots, and finally quite spoils the leaf, so that it has to be
removed. Palms will stand gas fairly well, but not so well as
_aspidistras_.
=THE BEST PLANTS FOR DARK CORNERS.= An _aspidistra_ (please note spelling)
is =the best plant there is for roughing it=. The long, thick, dark leaves
seem to stand draughts, gas, dark corners, poor soil, and general neglect
almost with impunity. But here again watering overhead is fatal, as
regards the appearance of these plants.
The =leaves should be washed once a week=, but I will just say here that
where one is in a hurry, and cannot wait to get a sponge and water, a good
polish with a duster is not at all a bad substitute.
There are disputes occasionally as to whether _aspidistras_ ever flower.
Of course, it is an undoubted fact that they do, and I can give a decided
affirmative to any who may question it. My plants flower regularly every
spring, but, as these blooms are a dull, greenish-purple in colour, and
only sit, as it were, on the top of the soil, they are naturally
overlooked.
The modesty of the violet is nowhere when compared with the _aspidistra_!
=Aralias are good room plants=, for they have a bold and handsome form,
and glossy, bright green foliage, very like that of a fig. They do not
stand gas well, however, but, as so many houses are lighted by
electricity, this is less of a drawback than was formerly the case. If not
regularly watered, too, they have a habit of dropping their leaves;
otherwise they are of easy culture. As they grow taller, the lower leaves,
even on a healthy plant, generally drop off.
=LEGGY PLANTS.= It is a good way, when these and kindred plants become
"leggy," to improve their appearance by cutting off the old root, and
making them root higher up the stem. Where the plant is valuable, it is
best to be sure of new roots before throwing away the old, but, as a rule,
_aralias_ have so many joints that they may easily be induced to strike by
just pressing the stem firmly into the soil, then putting the pot in some
dark place, and keeping the soil rather dry, though the foliage must be
kept moist. =To be quite sure of success=, however, it is best to treat
them in the following manner:--Choose a handful of soil with a little loam
in it, and, wetting the stem slightly, press the soil round two or three
of the joints, and bind closely with some raffia or bass, being very
careful to keep the soil always moist, or the plant will fail to make
roots. Some people enclose this part of the stem in two halves of a small
flower-pot, which is a good plan, if the stem will bear the weight, as it
preserves a more even temperature.
=The hare's-foot fern=--_Davallia canariensis_--with its beautiful
blue-green fronds, much divided and elegantly arched, makes the loveliest
room plant imaginable, and, though fairly common, is =not often seen in a
good state of health=. I have found that, on first buying a pot of this
fern, the leaves almost invariably turn rusty and drop off, so that, as
the new fronds sometimes do not appear for some while, an amateur might
really be pardoned for _imagining the plant dead_. This is not so; the
hare's-foot merely resents the change of atmosphere (it has probably been
in a moist green-house), and, like most of us, takes time to settle down.
Once it has acclimatised itself, there is no better plant to be had for
the purpose. It is so essentially decorative that no one can fail to
admire it. Firm potting is important in growing the =davallia=, and it
does not seem so partial to water as most of the fern tribe. It will also
stand gas pretty well, if not shut up for the night in an atmosphere
charged with it, and this is the case with many room plants; they
=strongly object to being left to spend the night in the impure air=,
though a few hours each evening will not do them much harm. The plan of
taking them out at bed-time also prevents so much dust accumulating on
their leaves, an inevitable drawback where a room is thoroughly swept and
dusted.
=Always endeavour to keep your plants well balanced.= In a room, it is
impossible to do this, without constantly turning the pots round, so that
all parts may get the light. In summer, this has to be attended to nearly
every day, but in winter less often, as the sun is, of course, much less
powerful.
As regards =re-potting=, great care must be exercised, or more harm than
good will result. Palms will grow for years in quite small pots, and do
not thrive if over-potted. On the other hand, some plants require it
annually, but, seldom or often, unless for some special reason,
=re-potting should always be done in the spring=. From the beginning of
February until the end of May, a plant may safely be shifted on, as it is
called, because all these months comprise the growing season, when fresh
roots are emitted and new leaves being produced almost daily. See that the
pot is perfectly clean and dry, and the soil in a friable condition; it
should be composed of peat, loam and sand in equal parts; a little leaf
mould, where it is for a fern proper, will be beneficial. A =potting soil=
ready prepared may be had for about a shilling a peck from any seedsman,
which saves time and trouble in mixing. Be sure to put clean crocks in at
the bottom, or the soil will become sour. Shake the pot every now and
again as you fill it up, to ensure no crevices being left; =loose potting=
has caused the death of many a fine plant. When the pot is full, press the
mould down, leaving from half an inch to an inch (according to the size)
bare of soil to the rim of the pot, to allow of watering. It is well to
put a layer, about half an inch thick, of cocoa-nut fibre on the top of
the soil, as this looks neat, and serves to show off the foliage to the
best advantage. Enough of the fibre to cover several dozen pots may be had
for threepence. Guano is good, if supplied to the plants during the warmer
months of the year. The proportions of guano to water can always be seen
on the label pasted on the outside of the tin. It is well to remember that
=guano should never be given to a plant when the soil is dry=, but always
just after it has been watered.
=Saucers or jardinieres should be emptied= as a rule an hour after the
plants have been watered, though where ferns seem to flourish most when
allowed to stand in water, it is well to continue the practice. In very
hot weather, this is undoubtedly of benefit to many plants, but in the
winter the soil of all pot plants should err on the dry side, cold and
damp together often proving fatal.
=GOOD FOR TWO-THIRDS OF THE YEAR.= There are some first-rate plants which
refuse to look well for the coldest part of the year (unless one is
possessed of an hot-house), but which are really =capital for brightening
our rooms= for at least eight months in the twelve. Of these, the
_asparagus_ "fern" is perhaps the most useful. It is a lovely and graceful
plant, which bears cutting, and it lasts so long, both in and out of
water. Being, however, in reality a stove plant, amateurs who have no
warmed green-house must not expect to keep it in thoroughly good health
during the winter, but so soon as the spring appears, new green stems will
shoot up in all directions, and the old fronds will soon be replaced by
bright green feathery plumes of infinite grace.
=Pteris wimsetti= is a charming room plant.
=Young eucalyptus plants= are also very pretty for decorating a room, and
are supposed to be good as a disinfectant. Their habit of growth is
uncommon, and very charming to watch, as they quickly reach to an
effective size, and make large handsome plants to set in the corners of
reception rooms. It is best to bring them up by seed, which should be sown
in February or March. =Spring is the best time to buy room-plants.=
CHAPTER XVIII
Various Hints
_Artificial manures--Labelling--Cutting off dead flowers--Buying
plants--Tidiness in the garden, etc._
With far the larger half of our population =the question of cost= comes
into everything. There are so many claims on our purses, that the money
spent on recreations can only be a small part; moreover, is always liable
to be drawn on at any moment. Somehow, the money laid out on a garden
always seems to be grudged, especially when it is for such things as
manure, so that if that item can be reduced, so much the better.
=A "WRINKLE."= One good way of buying it, is to get the boys who sweep the
roads to bring the contents of their cart to your garden instead of taking
it away. Quite a lot can be purchased for sixpence or so, and the mixture
is even more beneficial to some plants than the loads bought from the
contractor. When the neat little heaps are swept up at the roadside,
anyone may take it away. Householders can employ their own errand-boys to
do so, no charge being made whatever.
=Guano and artificial manures= in general are very stimulating, and must
only be given to plants in bud, or at all events full-growth. Sickly
plants or those at rest must never have it. =Soapsuds= form a mild
stimulant for rose-trees in summer, but these things do not come in place
of the manure with which the soil must be dressed in autumn; they are only
additions.
=LABELLING.= There has been much controversy over the labelling of plants;
it must be done very delicately, or the appearance of the garden is
spoilt; the word label usually presupposes a name to be written thereon,
but, in reality, =just a mark to show where a plant is=, often seems all
that is necessary, and this is very important indeed with plants which die
right down every winter. The most unobtrusive tallies must be used, and
they should be of zinc, or they will inevitably get lost. The wooden ones
are all right in the greenhouse, but no good at all outside. For
rose-trees, names are required, and =the "acme" labels are much the best=
ever invented for these, and have now been in use by all rosarians for
years; they can be had at Cant's Rose Nurseries, Colchester, for about 1s.
3d. a dozen, post paid.
=If we would keep plants in good health=, all dead flowers must be cut off
regularly; this is specially important in the case of sweet peas, pansies,
and other free-flowering plants, which become poor, and soon leave off
blossoming altogether, if allowed to form seed-pods. It is =a good plan=
to go round every morning with a basket and scissors, and snip off all
faded blooms, as, when several days elapse, the work becomes long and
irksome.
=As regards buying plants=, this comes somewhat expensive, until a little
knowledge and experience has been gained. After a while, the different
plants are known by sight, and one is able to see directly whether a
flower or shrub is well grown and of good colour. Then, instead of
ordering everything at the large nurseries, one can often pick up, in
one's wanderings, very =good things at small cost=. Until that is the
case, it is wiser to order from some reliable firm who is sure to send out
everything true to name. People who go in for gardening, should always be
ready to learn; there are so many points which cannot be acquired all at
once. One can often gain a "wrinkle" if one keeps one's eyes open, as the
saying is. Constant visits should be made to Kew, Hampton Court, or any
other well-kept public garden, if at all within reach. A stroll round a
neighbour's garden, too, will often give one new ideas, and the
interchange of opinions does a deal of good. A magazine keeps up one's
interest wonderfully, and there are many specially published for amateurs.
One must not be surprised that the advice often seems contradictory. =The
right way of growing a plant is the way that succeeds=, and experience
shows how varied may be the means by which success is attained. I should
like here to warn my readers that before launching out into any great
expense, they first come to a full understanding as to what they will or
will not be able to take away. Greenhouses can be put up as =tenants'
fixtures=, but a very slight difference in the manner of placing them may
result in a good deal of unpleasantness with the landlord, and it is the
same with rose-trees, and other shrubs and plants. Where a shrub has
attained to goodly proportions, it is really the best way to let it
remain, even though the associations connected with it may be pleasant, as
transplanting would probably mean death, in which case neither party would
have gained anything. Of course, in the nature of things, a lover of
gardening is loth to move at all, a rolling stone is not at all in his
line.
=Tidiness is most important in a small garden=, especially in the winter
time; plants may be allowed to get rampant in summer, but in the cold
weather, this wildness tends to make it look miserable. One sometimes sees
the brown, mildewed stalks of sunflowers and other tall plants, left on
right into December, even in a front garden, and it =gives such a deserted
look= to the place, that one longs to "have at them" there and then with a
knife. It is the same way with autumn leaves; in woods they look
beautiful, as they flutter down and make a rich, rustling carpet for our
feet, but, somehow, in the garden the beauty seems gone, and it is
generally the best plan to sweep them away as soon as possible into some
corner, where they can be left to turn into leaf mould. Of course there is
a certain beautiful freedom which is very desirable in a garden, and
which no one could call untidiness. What looks lovelier, for instance,
than the jasmine, with its long sprays hanging down over the window, or
the break made in a straight-edged path by some luxurious patch of thrift
or forget-me-not? these are only fascinating irregularities!
=Winter need not be a time for idleness=; it must be spent in getting
ready for the spring. Tools should be overhauled thoroughly, and new
supplies of sticks and labels prepared. Plans, too, should be made for
filling each different bed, so that when the warm days arrive, and one
scarcely knows what to be at first, everything may be in train.
The faculty of looking ahead must needs be used, if we wish to succeed. I
often think that =living in anticipation constitutes a great part of the
charm of gardening=. When sowing the seed, have we not bright visions of
the time when that self-same seed will bear most exquisite blossoms? When
pruning our rose trees, dreams of what they will become lend added
interest to our occupations, and, indeed, this quality of imagination
turns arduous work into a veritable labour of love, so that its devotees
always aver it is the most delightful recreation in the world.
JANUARY.
_Average Temperature 37._
In frosty weather wheel manure on to ground.
See that every plant which is not quite hardy is well protected from
frost.
Shake off any snow which may be lying on the branches of fir trees, etc.
In mild weather digging may be done.
If it has not already been done cut back all deciduous trees, such as
chestnuts, limes and sycamores.
Prune all except the tender fruit trees, cutting back weak shoots hard,
and strong ones little.
Sow early peas on a warm border.
Do not transplant this month.
Start covering rhubarb with pots or boxes for forcing, and surround them
with manure.
Paths may be relaid with gravel.
The erection of arches, trellis work, or any alteration of this sort may
be attended to.
Keep all plants under glass clear of decaying leaves and anything likely
to cause mouldiness.
Raise temperature of greenhouses as the days become lighter.
FEBRUARY.
_Average Temperature 39._
Begin sowing hardy annuals outside in a sheltered position.
Refrain from pruning rose-trees, or they will suffer later on.
New lawns can be made now, though Autumn is the best time.
See that all trees are securely staked and shoots of wall climbers well
nailed in before the winds of March come.
Prune remaining fruit trees.
Seeds of broad beans, peas, carrots, onions, beetroot, parsley, lettuce,
etc., can now be sown, though the largest sowing should be made next
month.
Plants under glass must have more air and more water as they begin to grow
quickly.
Ventilate carefully and close all the houses before sunset.
Give manure to fruit trees.
Look over fuchsias, dahlias, etc.; cut back and place in gentle warmth.
MARCH.
_Average Temperature 41._
Hardy perennials may be planted.
Prune hardy rose trees.
Sow the bulk of flowering annuals.
Cut back ivy during last week.
Free the lawn of plantains and sow grass-seed on bare patches.
Renew or fill up box edgings.
Hoe beds and borders frequently to keep down weeds.
Rose trees may be planted, though Autumn is the best time.
See that bedding plants in frames have plenty of water.
Clear out all dead plants and give a general tidy-up to the greenhouse.
Give plenty of air from top-lights to glasshouses.
Plant out Jerusalem artichokes.
Sow seeds of vegetables of all kinds.
Pick up gravel paths, and give another layer if necessary.
Protect anything newly planted from rough winds.
Mulch bush fruit trees.
APRIL.
_Average Temperature 46._
Make last sowing of annuals and thin out those appearing above ground.
Fill up gaps in the flower border.
Plant out dahlias.
Prune tea-roses during first week.
If rather dry weather ensues keep rockery and all Spring-flowering plants
well-watered.
Beds must be prepared for the tender plants put out next month by turning
the soil well over and thus pulverizing it.
Protect tender fruit trees from late frosts.
Sow seeds of vegetables for succession.
If the weather is hot, shading can be put on greenhouses.
Bedding plants must be gradually hardened off by giving plenty of air.
Mow and roll lawn frequently.
Plant out potato tubers.
Edgings can be planted or filled up.
MAY.
_Average Temperature 53._
Keep a sharp look-out for insects.
Commence bedding out this month and continue all through, reserving tender
things such as coleus till the last.
Hoe well between annuals and keep them well watered.
Carefully train the various climbers or they will grow into an
inextricable mass.
Fill vases and baskets.
Clip evergreen hedges as this makes them break out at the bottom.
Put some strawy manure between the rows of strawberries and keep well
watered.
Sow vegetable seeds for succession.
Plant out gourds, marrows, etc.
If the weather is hot keep everything well watered.
Transplant violets to their cool Summer quarters.
Syringe frequently under glass.
JUNE.
_Average Temperature 59._
If the garden is not altogether dependent on bedding plants it ought to be
looking its freshest and best.
See that everything has enough water.
Continue to thin out flowering annuals as they increase in size.
Carefully stake larkspurs, carnations, etc.
If the leaves of Spring bulbs have turned quite yellow, cut them off, but
not before.
Give copious supplies of water to all wall plants as a slight shower of
rain scarcely touches them.
Give occasional doses of manure to rose trees, and pick off all faded
flowers.
Water rockeries.
Stake runner beans.
Sow late broccoli.
Sow more lettuce.
Water peaches, apricots, etc., copiously.
Mulch all fruit trees.
Protect cherries from birds.
Draw earth up round potatoes.
Water marrows well and often with liquid manure.
Early this month plant out tomatoes on a south or west wall.
Keep greenhouses well ventilated both day and night.
Harden off azaleas before being set outside next month.
Most plants under glass will want watering twice a day or they must stand
in a saucer of water.
JULY.
_Average Temperature 62._
Look out for rose suckers and cut them off.
Syringe rose trees.
Mulch those going out of flower to induce them to make fresh buds.
Keep faded flowers picked off.
Commence propagating carnations.
Take note of gaps in the flower beds and fill up from the nursery garden.
Place azaleas, heaths, etc., outside in a shady place to rest awhile.
Pansies which are blooming well on cool borders should have weak solutions
of guano water afforded them.
Cut down faded spikes of larkspur and mulch and water well.
This month bedding plants are valuable as July is not a good month for
herbaceous perennials.
Stake the later runner beans.
Plant out celery.
Sow more turnip seed.
Syringe both wall fruit and standards.
Make new plantations of strawberries.
Water lawn every day if possible.
Thin out the superfluous wood of fig trees and shorten gross shoots on all
fruit trees.
Keep everything well watered under glass.
Give air all night to greenhouses.
Tie up climbers to roof neatly and frequently syringe.
Damp down several times daily.
AUGUST.
_Average Temperature 61._
Take pansy cuttings.
Stake dahlias, phloxes, etc.
Keep soil from caking by constant hoeing.
Take cuttings of geraniums, fuchsias, etc., and strike them out of doors.
Give copious supplies of water to rose trees and syringe foliage often.
Cuttings of rose trees may be inserted now on a cool border.
Rockeries must be constantly watered.
Disentangle shoots of climbing plants and tie back artistically.
Water lawn daily and do not cut too low.
Cuttings of most plants may be taken now and inserted in a shady border
with every chance of success.
Cut down old raspberry canes to make way for the new.
Protect fruit from wasps and other insects.
Pinch off the tops of runner beans.
Earth up celery and put out more young plants.
Remove leaves which obstruct light on wall-peaches, apricots, etc.
Syringe frequently.
Give air day and night to greenhouses.
Give constant supplies of liquid manure to chrysanthemums.
Cut back climbing plants on the roof.
SEPTEMBER.
_Average Temperature 57._
Begin planting spring bulbs.
Continue to take cuttings of bedding plants, but insert in frames now.
Leave off giving outside plants stimulants.
Sow hardy annuals to flower next Spring.
Plant out rooted layers of carnations.
Thin dahlia shoots and give plenty of water.
Remove rose suckers.
Pluck apples and pears as soon as ripe, and put on dry shelves to keep.
The fruit should not touch.
Prepare ground for new plantations.
On hot days fruit trees can still be syringed to keep down insects.
Plant out cabbages, sprouts, etc., from the seed bed.
Earth up celery.
Dig up and store potatoes.
Towards the middle of the month remove greenhouse shading.
Thin out climbers on roof again.
Save for chrysanthemums guano is little needed now.
Tender plants outside should be housed at the end of the month.
Pot up freesias.
Damp down less often and reduce the amount of air supplied.
Ferns which were not repotted in the Spring can be done now.
OCTOBER.
_Average Temperature 50._
Plant Spring bulbs and the madonna lily.
Take up all bedding plants and house carefully.
Fill the beds with polyanthus, wallflower, forget-me-not and other early
flowers.
This is a good month for planting most things.
Begin putting in shrubs.
Thin out annuals sown last month.
Cut back climbing plants.
Keep hardy chrysanthemums well staked.
Alterations can now proceed.
Continue to pick pears and apples, and go over them daily to pick out
mouldy ones.
Commence planting fruit trees.
Raspberry plantations should now be made.
Mulch strawberry beds after forking lightly between the rows.
Sow early peas in sheltered situations.
Store potatoes, carrots, parsnips, etc.
Give liquid manure to chrysanthemums under glass.
Ventilate carefully and do not damp down.
Bring September planted bulbs to the light as soon as they appear above
ground.
NOVEMBER.
_Average Temperature 43._
Plant rose trees.
Mulch every rose tree in the garden.
Continue planting hardy perennials.
Cut down all dead stalks of dahlias, sunflowers, phloxes, etc.
Finish planting bulbs.
Roll lawn frequently.
New ones can now be made.
Continually tidy up the garden.
Finish planting shrubs.
Protect fig-trees by mulching and cut back some of the over-luxuriant
shoots.
Plant fruit trees of all kinds.
Trench ground not in use that the rain and frost may sweeten it.
Prune currants and gooseberries.
Hoe frequently between rows of cauliflower and cabbage.
Celery must be earthed up higher.
Any alterations that may be in hand should be completed this month.
See that oil-lamp and other heating apparatus is in good order.
Look over cuttings of geraniums, etc., and remove all decayed leaves,
which should be burnt.
Ventilate all glass houses much less, especially during fogs.
DECEMBER.
_Average Temperature 39._
Give a final glance to tender plants to see that they are well protected.
Cut down faded stalks of hardy chrysanthemums.
Place hand-lights over Christmas roses.
This is a good time for writing new labels, preparing stakes, and making
plans for the following summer.
Roll gravel walks, and if mossy sprinkle with salt.
Planting of fruit trees may continue if the weather be mild.
Thin out gross wood to allow the air to circulate.
Wheel manure on to the ground in frosty weather.
Prepare vegetable seeds for sowing, by separating them from the husk,
drying, labelling and sorting them.
Earth up greens of all kinds with the hoe.
In glasshouses avoid too much moisture at this dead season of the year.
Only ventilate in mild, calm weather.
Keep everything scrupulously clean.
Give as much light as possible to growing things.
Plants at rest should be kept dark.
INDEX
Aspect, Influence of, on plants, 67
Conservatory, the--
Cactus plants for, 26
Hanging plants in, 26
How to stage, 25
Plants suitable for hanging baskets, 26
Enemies of the garden--
Earwigs, to get rid of, 45
Mice, to get rid of, 45
Slugs, to get rid of, 44
Wireworms, to get rid of, 45
Flowers--
Annuals, 76
Biennials, 78
Colours for day and evening use, 84
Natural and forced procurable each month, 86
To pack for post, 84
Fruit, want of flavour in, 72
Gardens, small--
Be original in planting, 17
Beds and bedding, hints for, 14
Border soil for, 16
Breaking up the straight appearance of, 11
Description of a small and lovely garden, 17
Duty of making experiments in, 17
Eye for colour needed in, 15
Fruit for, 70
General arrangement of, 9
How not to plant, 12
Lawns, to keep in order, 13
Little things that tell in, 12
Making the most of land, 15
Ornamental and useful, 73
Paths of, to keep in order, 14
Stone fruit for, 71
The Dell at Chertsey, 18
To begin well, 9
Walks, the, 10
Gardening Hints--
Art of buying plants, the, 98
Cut off dead flowers, 98
Labelling, 97
Manures, 97
Tidiness, 99
Glossary of terms used by Gardeners, 7
Greenhouses--
Advantages of, over conservatories, 27
Artificial heat for, 27
Climbers in, 26
Houseleeks, 54
Storing plants in, 28
The joys of, 10
To manage, 26
Lopping one's neighbour's trees. A vexed question, 11
Monthly Hints for Gardeners--
January, 101
February, 102
March, 103
April, 104
May, 105
June, 106
July, 107
August, 108
September, 109
October, 110
November, 111
December, 112
Planting, the art of, 66
Plants that are neglected but handsome--
Asters, 20
Campanulas, 21
Cape Gooseberry, 23
Christmas roses, 22
Columbines, 20
Coreopsis grandiflora, 21
Delphiniums (larkspurs), 21
Erigerons, 22
Funkias, 22
Heuchera sanguinea, 22
Jacob's ladder, 23
Lobelia fulgens, 22
Lychnis Chalcedonica, 22
Penstemons, 22
Pink flowered anemone japonica, 20
Potentillas, 23
Saxifrages, 23
Tradescantias & Trollius, 24
Violas, 24
Propagation of plants.
By careful division, 88
By layering, 90
By cuttings, 89
By seed, 89
Room Plants--
When to buy, 96
Correct way of watering, 92
For dark corners, 92
Good for two-thirds of the year, 96
Hare's-foot ferns, 94
To keep them well balanced, 94
Leggy plants and what to do for, 93
Management of, 91
Palms, 91
Rockery, The--
Apennine gems for, 48
Bulbs for, 56
Hints for the construction of, 47
Rock roses, 50
Suitable plants for, 48
Roses--
Bush roses of H.P. type, 38
Climbers for cool walls, 37
Dwarf teas, 41
Good climbers for warm walls, 36
Hedges of, 41
Pillar, 40
Pruning, 38, 43
Tea, 35
Time to plant, 43
Shelter for plants, 67
Shrubs--
Ceanothus, The delicate, 64
Good all round, 62
Lilacs grafted, 64
St. John's Wort, 59
Winter shrubbery, 64
Summer-houses--
Fragrant odours for, 33
How to cover, 32
Position of, 34
Table, Decoration--
Hints on, 83
Maidenhair, To make it last, 84
Simplicity in, 85
Stem-splitting, 83
Time for everything in gardening, A 69
Tool-sheds, Well stocked, 29
Trees--
Bank under, 60
Good plants for growing beneath, 58
Vegetables for small gardens, 73
Window Boxes--
Flowers for cold aspects, 81
Flowers for warm aspects, 82
How to make, 79
Pretty trailers for, 82
Showy flowers for winter, 80
[Sidenote: Garden Seeds and Bulbs]
AMATEUR GARDENERS and others should apply for our CATALOGUE before
ordering elsewhere.
A. C. TAYLOR, Ltd.,
Seedsmen and Bulb Importers,
28, ELECTRIC AVENUE,
BRIXTON, LONDON, S.W.
The Choicest BULBS AND SEEDS at moderate prices.
Catalogues gratis (issued in January and August).
[Sidenote: Fencing]
BAYLISS. JONES & BAYLISS
WOLVERHAMPTON.
LONDON SHOW ROOMS:--
139-141 CANNON ST E.C.
CATALOGUES FREE
MAKERS OF ALL KINDS OF IRON & WIRE FENCING, RAILING, ETC.
GALVd. WIRE NETTING.
Averages 20 per cent. Cheaper than Ordinary.
Lists free.
IRON BARROWS.
GATES.
_Low Prices._
TREE GUARDS.
IRON AND WIRE ESPALIER, &c.
AMUSING AND USEFUL BOOKS
THE CONFESSIONS OF A POACHER
By J. CONNELL. With Illustrations by F. T. DADD. Crown 8vo. Price 3s. 6d.
These confessions are unique as being the actual experiences of a
living poacher. The book is interesting as well as amusing, and one
cannot but admire the ingenious though illegitimate means of gaining
a subsistence.
THE NEW MASTER
By ARNOLD GOLSWORTHY, Author of "Hands in the Darkness." Cr. 8vo, cloth.
Price 3s. 6d. With Illustrations by TOM BROWNE. Second Edition.
Mr. GOLSWORTHY is possessed of a keen sense of humour, and he relates
the trials of a new master in a boys' school with such drollery, that
the result is a story full of ludicrous situations, and brimming with
fun from cover to cover.
DOMESTIC DITTIES
With Words and Music by A. S. SCOTT-GATTY, and profusely Illustrated by A.
T. S. SCOTT-GATTY. Crown 4to. Price 3s. 6d. [_In the press._
THE LIFE OF LORD KITCHENER
By HORACE G. GROSER, Author of "The Life of Lord Roberts," &c. Crown 8vo,
cloth. Price 2s. 6d. [_Ready shortly._
HOW TO TAKE AND FAKE PHOTOGRAPHS
By CLIVE HOLLAND. Crown 8vo, cloth. Price 1s. [_Ready._
Some of the Chapters contained are on Cameras--Plates and Films--The
Selection of Subjects--Exposure and Development--Intensification--
Reduction--Retouching--Spotting, &c.--Printing Processes--Mounts--
Final Hints.
SMALL GARDENS, AND HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF THEM
By VIOLET BIDDLE. Crown 8vo, cloth. Price 1s. [_Ready._
This is essentially a book for amateurs, written from an amateur's
point of view; the directions are clear and lucid, with a due regard
to the pocket and want of experience of the would-be horticulturist.
TIPS FOR HOUSEKEEPERS
Including an illustrated section on the folding of Serviettes. Crown 8vo,
cloth. Price 1s. [_In the press._
This should prove a very useful book to all housekeepers. The tips it
contains are really valuable, and are grouped under the different
branches of domestic work.
HEADS, AND HOW TO READ THEM
A Popular Guide to Phrenology in Everyday Life. By STACKPOOL E. O'DELL.
Fully Illustrated. Crown 8vo, cloth. Price 1s. [_In the press._
The author has made this the study of his life, and is therefore an
authority on the subject. Technical terms have been avoided as much
as possible so as to render the book intelligible to all.
Wooings and Weddings in Many Climes
By Louise Jordan Miln
Author of "When We Were Strolling Players in the East," &c.
With 48 Full-page Illustrations. Demy 8vo.
Price 16s.
"Fascinating text.... Fascinating pictures."--_Pall Mall Gazette._
"A most attractive and sumptuously got-up volume, brightly written, and
enriched with numerous photographs.... A charming gift-book."--_Daily
News._
"Full of charm as of information, and is plentifully and beautifully
illustrated from photographs."--_Scotsman._
"Should prove as popular with the single as with the wedded, written with
such sympathy, humour, and with such a sense of the goodness and joy of
life that the veriest sceptic of wedded bliss must acknowledge the
unfailing charm of her discourse."--_Lady's Pictorial._
"A beautiful volume and an interesting work."--_Glasgow Herald._
The North American Indians of To-day
By George Bird Grinnell, Ph.D.
Author of "Pawnee Hero Stories and Folk Tales," &c.
Illustrated with 55 Full-page Portraits of Living Indians.
Demy 4to, bound in art canvas.
Price L1, 1s. net.
"We cannot be sufficiently grateful to Mr. Grinnell for having decided to
publish his book.... A real contribution to ethnography. As to the actual
life of the Red Man of to-day, we must refer our readers to the volume
itself."--_Daily Chronicle._
_13th Thousand_
The Private Life of Queen Victoria
By One of Her Majesty's Servants
With numerous Illustrations.
Crown 8vo, cloth.
Price 2s. 6d. post free.
"It gives a charming sketch of Her Majesty as the mistress of her own
household and as the head of her large family."--_Pall Mall Gazette._
Fun on the Billiard Table
A Collection of 75 Amusing Tricks and Games, with Photographs and Diagrams
By "Stancliffe"
Crown 8vo
Post free, 2s. 6d.
TRICK WITH MATCHBOXES
Get two outside covers of any sort of the ordinary matchboxes, large size.
Place them on the billiard table with a ball on each. Put a third ball in
a line with a pocket and the two other balls as in diagram.
[Illustration]
Play a hard shot with the ball on the table into the pocket through the
matchboxes, which should fly off the table, and the two balls will occupy
the places where the matchboxes stood.
The above is an example of one of the seventy-five tricks contained in the
book.
"To say that no billiard-room should be without this joyous and ingenious
little volume is nothing: there is no player, amateur or professional, who
would not get his moneysworth out of it."--_Sportsman._
THIRD LARGE EDITION
Besieged with Baden-Powell
A Complete Record of the Siege of Mafeking
By J. Emerson Neilly
Special War Correspondent of the "Pall Mall Gazette" in Mafeking
Crown 8vo
Price 1s. net; post free, 1s. 3d.
"Mr. Neilly tells admirably the thrilling story of the
siege."--_Scotsman._
"As a realistic picture of how things actually happen, no less than as a
worthy record of one of the most splendid incidents of our history,
'Besieged with B.-P.' is a notable work."--_Pall Mall Gazette._
[Illustration]
Towards Pretoria
By Julian Ralph
A Record of the War to the Capture of Bloemfontein
Bound in Real Khaki and Scarlet
Price 6s.
"Brisk and graphic."--_Scotsman._
"Distinctly one of the war books to be read."--_Literature._
"Cannot fail to be popular."--_Echo._
"Mr. Ralph as a descriptive writer is amongst the first of the
day."--_Sheffield Independent._
C. Arthur Pearson, Henrietta Street, W.C.
[Sidenote: Lawn Mowers.]
RANSOMES' LAWN MOWERS.
THE BEST IN THE WORLD.
_Improvements possessed by no other Maker's Machines:--_
New Patent Double Angle Cutters.
New Patent Ribbed Driving Rollers.
New Patent Adjustable Front Rollers.
[Illustration]
All Mowers sent on a Month's Trial Carriage Paid.
RANSOMES' "PATENT" AUTOMATON, WITH CHAIN OR WHEEL GEARING.
The "Patent" Automaton Lawn Mowers are without a rival in design,
mechanical construction, excellence of materials, workmanship, finish,
durability, and lightness of draught. By close and frequent cutting these
machines will produce a rich velvety surface. The knives are driven by
accurate machine-made gearing, which works very smoothly and quietly, and
is completely covered to exclude dirt. =Made in Nine Sizes, 8 in. to 24
in. wide.=
RANSOMES' "ANGLO-PARIS" MOWERS. THE BEST LIGHT MACHINES.
The "Anglo-Paris" Lawn Mowers are suitable for small Gardens, and for
Ladies' and Amateurs' use; have perfect adjustment, and can be used with
or without a Grass Box. =Made in Eight Sizes, 6 in. to 20 in. wide.=
RANSOMES' "LION" MOWERS. THE BEST CHEAP MACHINES.
Introduced to meet the demand for a very low-priced Machine of reliable
English workmanship. =9 in., 11 in., 13 in., and 15 in.=
RANSOMES' "HORSE & PONY MOWERS." THE BEST LARGE MACHINES.
New Patterns; New Adjustments; New Patent Spring Handles; Double Angle
Cutters. =Made in Six Sizes, 26 in. to 48 in. wide.=
_SUPPLIED PROMPTLY BY ALL IRONMONGERS._
CATALOGUES FREE ON APPLICATION TO
RANSOMES, SIMS & JEFFERIES, LTD., IPSWICH.
[Sidenote: Dobbie's Guide]
[Illustration]
DOBBIE'S CATALOGUE & COMPETITORS' GUIDE.--224 large quarto pages,
beautifully Illustrated Lists of all Flower and Vegetable Seeds, with most
valuable, cultural notes, times of sowing, colours, heights, &c.; also all
the best flowering plants, including our world-famed Collections of
Dahlias, Pansies, Violas, Early Flowering Chrysanthemums, Herbaceous
Plants, Pentstemons, Pyrethrums, Roses, Fruit Trees, &c., &c.
"Indispensable alike to amateur and professional gardeners." Copies per
Parcel Post on receipt of Sixpence.
DOBBIE & CO., THE ROYAL SEEDSMEN, ROTHESAY.
[Sidenote: Alkan]
"ALKAN" cures in =One Minute= by Inhalation. The Effect is Marvellous.
The ONE MINUTE Cure For Headache, Neuralgia, Toothache, Neuralgia of the
Ear. This simple and perfectly harmless remedy has cured instantaneously
thousands suffering from the above complaints. Of all Chemists and Stores,
prices =2/9= & =4/6= per bottle. Sent post paid to any part of the United
Kingdom on receipt of price. Or of the Proprietors, =B. & G. ALKAN=,
_General Depot_, 150, STRAND, LONDON, W.C.
[Sidenote: Vegetable and Flower Seeds]
SHILLING'S SEEDS ARE THE BEST FOR AMATEURS & GARDENERS
Because they produce the finest Flowers and Vegetables.
CATALOGUE SENT GRATIS AND POST FREE.
C. R. SHILLING, Seedsman,
WINCHFIELD, HANTS.
[Illustration: "Ill Weeds Grow Apace." Root them out!]
A PRESENT PRECAUTION MAY SAVE YOU GREAT FUTURE TROUBLE.
Work in the Garden is Pleasant Work, But it is Hard Work, and every
invention to lessen labour is an advantage!
WITH THE "GNU"
WEEDING FORK
[Illustration]
FLOWER BEDS, &c. may be kept in perfect order with a minimum of Labour.
The Prongs being very close together it loosens the soil and removes weeds
better and quicker than by hand.
No Stooping or Soiled Hands.
Price complete, with 3ft. handle, =1/3 each.=
DAISY FORK
[Illustration]
Such unsightly WEEDS as DAISIES and PLANTAINS can be COMPLETELY REMOVED
from LAWNS, TENNIS COURTS, &c., QUICKER and BETTER than by any other
method.
Having 3 prongs, close together, and a strong lever, the ENTIRE Root is
removed without exertion or without disturbing the surrounding grass.
Price complete with 3ft handle, =1/6 each.=
Manufactured solely by J. LYTLE, 3 BARTON ROAD, WALTON, LIVERPOOL.
Transcriber's Notes:
Passages in italics are indicated by _italics_.
Passages in bold are indicated by =bold=.
Punctuation has been corrected without note.
Inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been retained from the
original.